Thanks for the tip on pulling shafts in Pings during the Memorial Day WIYD. I was worried about the multiple minutes of heat I applied and the hosel discoloration. You made me feel a lot better and that it was normal for Pings. I used a bit of Barkeepers Friend to get rid of the discoloration.
@@bobking7311 Used a small butane torch. No heat gun. Still took maybe 2 minutes per head if I remember. It's been a while. Those Ping iron heads are tough! I couldn't tell you about woods though. That may be different. Best to ask Jim.
@@nickjohnson8246 Thanks. I've gone well beyond 2 minutes per head using a small butane torch like Jim's without success, but your comment about not worrying about the discoloration gives me hope. As for asking Jim, what's the best way to do that?
@@bobking7311 email him or on Monday's at 4 he does that live Q&A called what's in my drawers. That's where I asked about ping jrons being hard to do. Yeah it may have been like 5 minutes an iron. It was ridiculous. Their epoxy ain't no joke. They do weird stuff. I have an Eye2 Gorge wedge that's .355 hotel with a .370 shaft hammered into it. That's how they made it.
Awesome content. Funny thing is that your hand strength is off the charts. Question: would you pull heads that way Everytime? Would you use a puller more often? Cheers.
Nice work thank you. I'm having trouble removing the shaft from a 1963 TP Mills putter. I heated up the hosel over my stove for a good while and couldn't get it to budge. Any other ideas?
OK< my frustration is building quickly. I'm also trying to remove a shaft from a set of DCIs (Gold) and no matter how hard I try to heat the hosel it just won't break loose. I'm using a similar butane torch to yours, and have heated the hosel for as long as 4-5 minutes while rotating, and it STILL won't break loose. Should I just try longer until the epoxy finally gives, or what's the problem?
How about an old set of paying g5s that I used to have back in the day and now I am 80 so I bought them off eBay and there's no distance even though I hit the ball solid. Is it worth the effort to change all the lies stronger? They are going very high and short. The five iron is a 27° standard lie with the ping soft regular shafts. I sent you a lot of questions but never receive answers. I am also never able to locate merchandise that you say are just below the video and I can't find them.
@@McGolf thanks im trying to change to graphite shafts in my Miuras but for some reason i can only get about 1/2 inch of the shaft to go in? is this normal for graphite. im positive they are .355 tapered as i ordered them online from golfworks. even the .355 Ferrell is extremely tight on these.
@@dansapp6619 Did you sand off the paint? On graphite shafts, you have to sand down the tip just a little. Most of the time, I've only had to remove the outside paint. I did notice the Aldila NV Black iron shafts took a little bit more material removed to get it to fit in the hosel.
@@dansapp6619 Here's Golfwork's video on it. They do tip prep at 2:10. I'm sure Jim has videos on it as well if you dig around. But I got lazy myself and found the Golfwork's video first. czcams.com/video/UzcZpmWcdOI/video.html
“A little bit of heat, a little bit of twistin, a little bit of rubbin” great advice for life!
Thanks Jim and Robin. You guys are brilliant
Good video Jim. Keep them coming!
Awesome video! Thank you sir.
Thanks for the tip on pulling shafts in Pings during the Memorial Day WIYD. I was worried about the multiple minutes of heat I applied and the hosel discoloration. You made me feel a lot better and that it was normal for Pings. I used a bit of Barkeepers Friend to get rid of the discoloration.
What heat gun did you use and how long did you have to apply the heat?
@@bobking7311 Used a small butane torch. No heat gun. Still took maybe 2 minutes per head if I remember. It's been a while. Those Ping iron heads are tough! I couldn't tell you about woods though. That may be different. Best to ask Jim.
@@nickjohnson8246 Thanks. I've gone well beyond 2 minutes per head using a small butane torch like Jim's without success, but your comment about not worrying about the discoloration gives me hope. As for asking Jim, what's the best way to do that?
@@bobking7311 email him or on Monday's at 4 he does that live Q&A called what's in my drawers. That's where I asked about ping jrons being hard to do. Yeah it may have been like 5 minutes an iron. It was ridiculous. Their epoxy ain't no joke. They do weird stuff. I have an Eye2 Gorge wedge that's .355 hotel with a .370 shaft hammered into it. That's how they made it.
Awesome content. Funny thing is that your hand strength is off the charts. Question: would you pull heads that way Everytime? Would you use a puller more often? Cheers.
for graphite I use the puller every time, I try this method for steel but the hand strength fails and I use the machine
Nice work thank you. I'm having trouble removing the shaft from a 1963 TP Mills putter. I heated up the hosel over my stove for a good while and couldn't get it to budge. Any other ideas?
Nice tip! Thank you. Can I use stove flame to get the head out instead of buying Bernzomatic?
I bet you don't have any pulled senior graphite iron sets like the fujakura red for sale?
OK< my frustration is building quickly. I'm also trying to remove a shaft from a set of DCIs (Gold) and no matter how hard I try to heat the hosel it just won't break loose. I'm using a similar butane torch to yours, and have heated the hosel for as long as 4-5 minutes while rotating, and it STILL won't break loose. Should I just try longer until the epoxy finally gives, or what's the problem?
What is that greenie pad you used?
How about an old set of paying g5s that I used to have back in the day and now I am 80 so I bought them off eBay and there's no distance even though I hit the ball solid. Is it worth the effort to change all the lies stronger? They are going very high and short. The five iron is a 27° standard lie with the ping soft regular shafts. I sent you a lot of questions but never receive answers. I am also never able to locate merchandise that you say are just below the video and I can't find them.
would you treat a black head such as t100's or blue mizunos differently when heating to remove the heads?
black no blue yes. They are different coatings
can you tell me if KBS make a .355 parallel tip shaft? also do you know if the miura baby blades are tapered shafts or parallel?
.355 is a taper tip designation, as far as i know all miuras take .355 shafts
@@McGolf thanks im trying to change to graphite shafts in my Miuras but for some reason i can only get about 1/2 inch of the shaft to go in? is this normal for graphite. im positive they are .355 tapered as i ordered them online from golfworks. even the .355 Ferrell is extremely tight on these.
@@dansapp6619 Did you sand off the paint? On graphite shafts, you have to sand down the tip just a little. Most of the time, I've only had to remove the outside paint. I did notice the Aldila NV Black iron shafts took a little bit more material removed to get it to fit in the hosel.
@@dansapp6619 Here's Golfwork's video on it. They do tip prep at 2:10. I'm sure Jim has videos on it as well if you dig around. But I got lazy myself and found the Golfwork's video first. czcams.com/video/UzcZpmWcdOI/video.html
@@nickjohnson8246 thanks I did have to sand down the tip quite a bit as the miuras were already tight on the steal shafts. i appreciate the info
Thanks for sharing… about to dive into tinkering
You gotta warn us about the music. 🧀