A $600 Ductless 110v Mini Split?!
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- čas přidán 5. 08. 2023
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Della 12K 110v mini split: amzn.to/45qrYum
Della 12K 220v mini split: amzn.to/3OGh6m2
Drywall anchors used: amzn.to/3DJ47tJ
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Finally got it up and running. The only delays we had was because we realized we needed some extra parts (I’ll list that below) czcams.com/users/postUgkxihMYiJNXcHdbH-7ihymsLz61l7jVyb5O . So we have a loft where our current hvac just couldn’t seem to keep cool during the summer. We have been using a window unit since we bought this house over 6 years ago (all the houses in this neighborhood were built in the 80’s and majority of the houses built like ours use a window unit). I hate window units because they are just so noisy and the one we had really only cools one side of the loft. I had contemplated upgrading our current HVAC, but with all the rising prices these days, it would take years before saving up enough to do that. With the advice of my father-in-law (used to run an HVAC business), he recommended we get an inverter instead. We thought we bought everything we needed, but there were just a few other parts we didn’t anticipate needing (which is what caused most of our delay). My friend and father-in-law did all the work to get it installed and running and now we have nice cool air circulating nicely throughout the entire loft. It is very quiet and even the outside unit is much quieter than our main HVAC unit. Saved ourselves thousands getting this.
Just finance a good system they have 0% for 5 years
Very nice install most installers would never go to this much trouble to do an install, I love these mini-splits. I put a Mr Cool 18K in 7 months ago and I wish the conduit cover was made like this one, so much easier to work with. The electrical cover was the only thing I thought was wonky at the time I installed it.
I bought and installed one of these about a month ago, and immediately bought and installed a second one. You didn't mention it, but the wifi programming options and controls are outstanding. Way more features and capabilities than I could have even imagined.
You will be sorry later. How can you recommend something you have owned for a month or two. The ones you installed might last five years, at best.
How could I possible be sorry? For what these cost and difficulty of installation, not to mention the great performance, 2 years would still be a win. 5 years would be a grand slam. Otherwise I don't see massive amounts of failures of these units, other than less than stellar installations.@@thomaswayneward
Mines been running since 2013, I've literally cleaned the outdoor unit once. Let me guess, you're in the trade and worried about everyone finding out that standard AC is shithouse, lmao@@thomaswayneward
@@spazzman90I have installed at least 15 of the even cheaper ones from eBay over the past couple of years and all are still working great. I have 3 of them installed in my own house and the features are getting better every time I order a couple of them. And yes five years is definitely a win. Eat a d&$k previous poster 😂
@@spazzman90he’s sorry because ppl have the information they need to install these mini splits themselves or have them installed. We had a guy come out 2 years ago bc it kept tripping the breaker. He tried to quote us $20k for a new ac unit only, for a 3 bedroom one level condo. I told him to get out…Nothing was actually wrong, it just needed some service that my husband did himself. Here we are, another hot summer almost over and she’s still going strong.
If we do decide to replace it before we move, it’ll be a mini split. Installed by a professional bc the hoa is VERY anti DIY, of course. They’re so ridiculous and nosy they want to know if you paint your own interior walls. Hence the reason we can’t wait to sell it.
Followed your instructions exactly and everything worked great. Your procedures and descriptions are amazing!! Thanks!!!
I can tell you take pride in your work. Looks great
I installed this unit back in August 2022 and it's still going strong in the Texas heat! Nice video sir.
Wow, I really like those anchors, and that stud finder. Thanks for the review/video I think I'm going to pull the trigger on this unit.
Man! Youse do great van builds. Learn so much from them. Thanks for sharing them with us.
I got the 220 volt version and it's been awesome so far.
I just installed a 4 zone 36k BTU Della 220V on my cabin. The install was super easy. I ran one line set inside an interior drywalled wall and that was a tad difficult by myself but it worked out... The only thing I overlooked was to install the drain line under the refrigerant lines... I was worried that I might have water backup and overflow the interior pan but it was fine and drains without leaking. I'm super impressed with the Della unit!
I can tell you take pride in your work. Looks great. I can tell you take pride in your work. Looks great.
I agree with some other comments about running a drain down to the ground, but gotta make it look good. Maybe small pvc over to the inside corner of the wall and then straight down the corner, painted to match the siding obviously, which would make it basically invisible.
Overall I like your installation. 3 comment:
1. I would not run the lineset inside the drywall. If there is water leaking for whatever reason, it won't leak inside the wall and goes unnoticed until it is too late. I would put the lineset to the outside and cover it with lineset cover.
2. I would check the leak at the connection points after releasing the refrigerant before I tape it up. The pressure in the lineset will be much higher when running in heat mode and will show any subtle leak. Holding the vacuum does not guarantee no slow leak.
3. Minimum lineset length is about 10 ft from the MFR. Does it really make a difference if shorter? I am not sure. Maybe just less efficient.
I'm just a DIYer, but your points make sense--especially #1. I thought how easy it was to run those lines up inside the wall cavity when there's no insulation 😂 but when you have it, running lines outside avoids a lot of issues!
The reason for minimum length lineset is it acts as an accumulator, which acts tike a shock absorber and help in gas / liquid phase separation, having this properly done helps with the longevity of the unit and minimum warranty issues with many units?
@@sus8e462 Wow, I didn't even think about the fact that there's no insulation in that exterior wall. That's crazy. It would never fly where I live. I can't think of many places that no insulation would be ok. Maybe some amazing tropical paradise?
@@incognitotorpedo42Maybe it evaporated--just like with every apartment that's that's been foisted upon Americans!
Sorry to say it: Nominal!
love my Della, installed in my Garage, in LV, so nice, was unbearably hot before, perfect now
Easy install versus tosot?
I use the liquid tite pipe on the communication lines also.. Mine is 220 though..Helps with uv and also critters and accidents..Cheap insurance.
I installed a 9,000 btu Cooper & Hunter in my office two summers ago. I now have a different Della 12,000 btu unit than this to install in my bedroom. The listing in the description is for a 230v, the 115v unit I ordered is $100 more. And the C&H unit is now around $850. Not too hard for someone handy to install and the cooling in the summer is great, and heating in the winter is great. Hoping to get all the rooms in my house with mini split systems and my solar panels installed (there on a pallet in my shop right now, haha), then my propane bill will be cut a lot in the winter.
Nice job with your explanation. I have one of these units in my new sunroom and I absolutely love it!
I wish my condo assoc would allow us to get these. I'd love to get rid of the stupid thru-the-wall AC units and block out the road noise from outside.
Its looks like AUX brand here in the Philippines. The remote is similar. But ours has big smiley icon in the middle and doesnt have led backlighting on lcd screen.😊 pretty good job!❤
Great job, and looks like a nice unit. One big mistake (and major NEC Code Violation) was that metal box for the 120v buried in the wall. Huge no-no. You should have relocated the disconnect so you could simply have run the existing power cable directly into it, or installed a blank cover on the existing former outlet box inside. Buried boxes have caused fires in the past, if a splice inside fails.
I could always mount that so that it’s accessible via the cover.
@@diyhvacguy did you end up pulling it out flush with the wall or...left it...
I installed 2 Tosot units,I used the cooling mode yesterday and the air coming out of the louver was a nice cold 50 degrees F
My semi-detached wife had some Mitsubishi Mini split units installed on her place last year (no previous A/C and hydronic radian heat) in Chicago. The work great (as they should for the $$). I've been looking to install one or two on my house. I want to get a unit that has the floor mount exchanger rather than the wall mount as it's a vintage house.
One note on these all in one/retail units is that many of the copper lines are junk. Better to buy a good flaring tool and quality tubing.
Also, the DIY pressure/leak testing on some of these is quite minimal and really should be done with nitrogen and proper gauges.
Like those drywall anchors!
You put copper behind a wall and it will rot your wall out with moisture dripping inside the wall. That copper the electrical and the drain go straight outside from the evaporator so there’s only 4 inches of copper in between the walls. The rest of the copper stays outside you should make straight runs and cut its links to fit correctly. Which means you’ll need to pull a vacuum after you weld your copper up.
What I heard the best option for coiling up extra line set is to do it horizontally. Since their should be a J bend, you could just make the outdoor J bend near the condenser connection and coil up any additional underneath the condenser, especially since you have it on the mounting bracket. It would be nice and out of the way.
Also, I really like those in ceiling cassettes. I might do something like that for my garage to keep it below 80F in the summer and over 40F in the winter. I have two electric cars and it would be nice to reduce the extremes that they deal with more often.
and look weird too. Clean install to avoid call backs.
@@uhjyuff2095 Non-sense... you wouldn't even see it unless you're trying to bend underneat the unit.
Jbend? Where is the requirement for that?
Minimum of 10’ of line set should be used
Great video buddy! Thanks for sharing.
Love the whole walkthrough of this video.
Seems like a better deal than the tosot i just bought 😂. Do not burry electrical in walls. If you are illeagly doing electrical whatever just do it safely, leaving the box and putting a plate over it would have been correct.
Doing your own electrical is not illegal if you do it to code.
@@Grumpy244 most places it is illegal without a license unless you're doing it to your own house really seemed like this was not his house. I mean there are a few places where you can do whatever you want but that is definitely not the majority of the country.
@@Channel-gz9hm Hvac guys can not do electrical here maybe they can where you are but I doubt it if he buried electrical access
@@Kevin-mp5of I don't know where this was done, so I can't say speak to "code"... junction boxes are allowed by NEC, but they do have to be accessible. (i.e. exposed, behind a _removable_ panel, etc.) The fact they used MC suggests they don't do a lot of residential. (this is the first time I've _ever_ seen MC in a residence - even on YT!)
(The golden rule: if it's not going to be inspected, no codes apply.)
Don’t forget ….. to set a fire extinguisher next to this fire code violation
I installed a 220V Della 12,000 BTU unit about two months ago. I agree, it was easy, it only took me about 8hrs to install. It took the place of a wall mounted window unit similar to what you did. I also used the existing 220V that powered the existing unit.
Awesome
sounds about right
i too am in the process of installing the 12000 btu 220 v unit just curious what you used for an outside disconnect as the smallest unit i have found is a 30 amp and this particular unit draws much less than that i also found the instruction manual from della to be terrible this video answered so many questions thanks so much
@@markkidd1282 It doesn't matter how much current the disconnect can handle as long as it is more than the AC can draw. I used a 60 amp unit.
was there no insulation to begin with in that outside wall? Was that in a climate that would require it? Just curious. I didn't see any vapor barrier or insulation.
Very thorough instructions, thank you. I can do this 💪
always wanted to see you do a 110 mini spilit.! just perfect.! thank you!
@@Kevin-mp5of saw it.. I still call it 110.
@@Kevin-mp5of if you say so! I call it whatever I feel like.
Knock on the door and offer to fix that kink. Nice way to get new customer and get suggested to be the installer of choice for that community.
I would just replace the whole line
Karen and Pat with the HOA had to approve....
Pretrip from a non pro: for a cleaner install, I mount the disconnect to the bracket. I drill holes and use bolts and nuts to secure it. It’s possible to pull the power wire through the same hole too. Less clutter on the wall.
I just installed the same system. All these videos show taping up all of the copper lines during the install. I didn't wrap anything until I pressure tested the lines then spray all the brass connections with soapy water from a spray bottle to check for leaks. If you wrap everything you can't check for leaks and all of your freon will leak out costing you money to hire someone plus replacing all the freon
My brother and I installed a mr cool one at his cabin in about 3 hours and it was really easy the hardest part was trying to get everything lined up with the old hole that was there from the old unit after that we had it running within the 3 hours. Both of us had never done this before either.
I doubt the install time
Mr Cool is as easy as it gets. You get to skip a lot of steps, especially if you are swapping out an old unit.@@shaystern2453
@@shaystern2453 I don't not with two people doing it.
@@shaystern2453who cares😅
Super great install, Dave! No evidence of the old wall unit.
Hi Dave really appreciate your videos. Would you consider making a how to guide on replacing a rusted air handler secondary drain pan? Thanks again for your channel.
You should consider doing a video on how to upgrade to a larger mini-split system (how do you get the refridgerant back to the compressor before you disconnect the line). It seems no one has done that on CZcams. Everyone does a new install. Thank you for all the videos.
Damn, if I could learn how to do this... Which I likely will... as i've worked with and seen hvac repairs, recharge, etc so i'm not entirely in the dark, i think i could maybe help some folks out around here. It's hot done here in the south, and i'm around poor folks. I bet they'd love an efficient, small to large room a/c and heat alternative to their window units. Either way, i want one for my current home, and I know I can do it. I loved the way you did this. I saw it down slightly different in another video and I'm sure that his system did wonderful, but it felt like you took extra precautions. I like that. Thanks for making this video.
Beautiful install.
You definitely should get the mighty bracket
Excellent job guys!!!
You ROCK!!!
Thx so so much for your video! First time trying to do this :)
I have done a shit ton of installs just using easy anchors! Zip them in,screw in the bracket,easy peasy!
Yes they’re not heavy at all. I prefer these ones though. I did a test with a bunch of drywall anchors and these held a lot more weight. Equally as easy to install. Thanks for the input
That della unit is the same as the pioneer. But for cheaper. I love mine. It cranks cold air 247
Yesir, they’re both made by the same mother company. Midea
@@diyhvacguy Interesting. I expected to see some familiar Midea stuff but it all looks basically like they took the cost out of EVERYTHING. If the internals are basically the same then that's a win at the bottom of the market.
why such large pricing differences? Simply because Pioneer has their name out and is known for efficiency? I'm completely off grid in Cabo with four 48v EVE280 battery banks. I did an unheard of thing with Mexican construction, I insulated the walls and roof as good as possible (6-18" EPS). Windows suck because I went with 12mm safety glass due to hurricanes. All I can think of is swapping out higher SEER mini-splits. Next house, I will haul proper windows down from California since my buddy works for Sierra Pacific.
@@stiffmeister0hYeah Mr Cool is pretty expensive these days. Their kit is nice for DIY and they do have the warranty. Still it sucks to pay like twice the cost for probably pretty much the same system. Although for my first system (18k gen 3 single zone) I guess the extra cost paid for itself when I needed a new condenser. And I got a gen 4 upgrade out of it, too.
I put a Pioneer in my garage. My install was very much like this except I ran the lineset down the inside of the garage. The wall is concrete block. It's been providing silent heating and cooling for a number of years now. I love it.
Great install.
Great work as usual man!
Thank you for the instructional video. What if you need to locate the outside compressor fan unit horizontally to the hole through the wall? What considerations and limits are there in locating the compressor? I assume you need to maintain a slope in the piping to ensure gravity feed. How high off the ground is best, I have a brick wall that opens to the courtyard garden where I would like to locate the Condensing Unit. How far from the Internal unit can you locate the compressor. Condensing unit? Pros and cons of location. The other side of the brick wall where I want to install the unit is the garbage storage location.
Sick! Love it and the explanation was understandable
Very clean install bro. 👌 thanks for sharing your knowledge.
Great flaring tool!
What a fantastic install…….⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
Nice Video, thank you! Which unit you liked better? This Della or Cooper & Hunter from one of your previous videos?
Any uninsulated and or exposed copper inside the wall will damage your wall. The copper Hass to go straight out the hole from the inside evaporator, leaving only four or 5 inches in between your interior and exterior walls the copper line set Hass to be totally wrapped and insulated when it goes through the wall And your drain line Hass to go through the same hole so if you put your drain line on top of your copper, on its way, going out, your evaporator pan will overflow on your floor. You have to have a constant downward slope on your drain. If you don’t use an external powered drain pump.
it's not shiplap but Hardiplank siding. :)
Installed this same unit about a month ago. I already had an identical (12k) unit on the other side of my house and this one took me over the standard ratio of 20 btu's/sqft. It actually enabled both units to run at lower power levels and achieve super stable indoor temps. They work well heating over the winter and dropped my electric bill by over 100$/month over the summer. They seem slightly less efficient in the colder months, but I could insulate a little better. Paid for themselves in less than 6 months. It motivated me to follow through with the solar panel install.
I didn’t pull my schrader valve out when i pulled vacuum. I released the refrigerant and it works though.
Super clean install. Nice job
Awesome installation! 😃👍
Good vid
I think it is better to get a pre-charged unit as a DIYer, and who has a flaring tool! Dont even think I can rent that at the local HomeDepot.
Cheers
I see you did the Della like I recommended, I'm installing a Rovsun today
Nice job. The owner should have gone with a 2 unit system and replace that upstairs through wall unit. Thanks for posting this!
The upstairs is a separate unit. It’s a little studio condo
Whoa. That's really great.
Great video!! What are your recommendations for a heat and AC unit? I need one for an Overland Camper. I appreciate your expertise.
You could've cut those lines almost in half and then run them before you cut & flared them... since you were gonna custom cut the line anyway. A life lesson I guess. Usually you connect the lines and then feed the lines thru the wall penetration to hang the Duct. This installation seems to have taken several days with all the associated work to replace siding, drywall, paint and relocate the electrical. Just painful to think of the time required to complete from start date to finish. Adding crimp on connectors at the final white black and red power connections would be a nice touch to make it totally professional. Nice job & looks great.
I live in Edinburg, Texas. I went to Progresso Mexico, thousand 12,000 BTU 120v with heat and cold for $300
Do you recommend using a surge supressor on the incoming power line?
Great video, clean installation. Could please provide the link to buy the power flaring tool ? Thanks
This is one of the most thorough mini split install videos I've seen on CZcams. My question is what do you do if the system leaks at say the flare fitting and you need to repair and then add refrigerant? I cannot find R32 for sale anywhere in the US.
I have that same question. If you can’t get R32 from your supplier, then maybe use R410A (which is half R32).
@@coolramone I wish I knew; I can't get an answer on this anywhere.
EG4 / signature solar has a great mini split system(s)
Price is more. Pick your poison.
Great gems!
Keep rolling!
Richard G journeyman Electrician from Anaheim Ca.
Man I really need one or two of these in southern Nevada. It's like 120° for all of July.
nevada, hot in August? who knew?
@@shaystern2453 August not S0O hot!!!!!!!!!!!! It puking July that was RECORD HEAT!!!!! LIKE 17 days above 110° and put Colorado River Valley at over 117° for the same duration. This is going to be the new normal. August brings the Monsoon season so temps back off and we then get dangerous flash flood conditions. Not to mention the real danger of lightning that can take lives and spark wildfires. You seem to be poking fun at the weather in the southwest but it's a real threat to people that live there. It's something that will spread to other parts of the U.S. and the world. So wherever you are at "It's Coming For You Too".
very nice im going to get this one
Nice Work!
very nice installation and unit(s)
Nice install. Those head units don't weigh hardly anything so even just basic plastic anchors would hold it just fine. I use plastic screw in anchors made for sheetrock. They hold 75+ pounds per anchor. I have used them for years with no issues.
I'd be more worried about the vibrations from the blower and the coils on such a thin anchor over time. I would've probably used a mounting board, Maybe as thin as a 1" oak board. I'd be interested to know if they hold up past a couple of years.
@@Drebin2293I too noticed that! Yes! (Un-)Screw the wall! Why trust it?!
A few bucks--hardly any additional time? If you need to replace--already done! And, done-right!
At 1:35 you have an electrical box that you removed and it looks like it will be buried in the wall. This is a code violation unless the box is accessible.
true, also what if that connection opens up there?
Yes and no. The wiring goes into the box, and then into the cabling. I don’t think it’s a splice…or is it direct to the disconnect?
I'd like a 2nd opinion on this as well, as I don't think it's considered a junction box, but a splice.
@@Kevin-mp5of we need to find out if he the cable went all the way to the disconnect, or if it’s spliced in the disconnect. I love his hvac skills, but wish he could do better on the electric side.
Not only that he does not have the proper clearance for the disconnect on the exterior.
How far apart was the bracket. To hang head unit inside i am about put mine in and i want make sure to make a brace while open
Love the install, only problem is you bud that box behind the wall. I don’t think that allowed by code. Needs to be accessible?
There was an outlet there for the lamp and the old air conditioner. Why not just run the power into that box and leave the outlet there for the lamp? Now you have to remove the lamp.
.
Della looks really fairly easy to install. Love how he really took care to hide the linesets & wiring-unlike contractors in our area doing slap-together quickies, taking unsightly shortcuts!
Does Della void the warranty if homeowner DIYs it?
Is Della coming out with significantly better energy efficiency units soon (because these are currently, it appears, fairly low-efficiency)??
Della warranties DIY units but extends the warranty to 5 years if installed by a licensed qualified pro.
Quick Question: why didn’t you center the unit on the wall or window? Does it matter or would the centering simply be for aesthetic? Thank you!!
I wish they made mini (as in small) mini split systems.
Between 3000-6000 BTU. Even better if it's a true 12v dc design (many cheap 12v dc mini split and AC units have a built in inverter to supply 120v ac and then use 120v ac compressor and fan. A true 12v DC system uses 12v DC compressor and fan).
This size mini split would be perfect for offgrid use for a room about 10 feet x10 feet. This size is perfect for a cabin or RV bedroom.
Smaller AC units generally require less power to run and much much less power to start the compressor. Starting a motor takes 4 times as much power to start than to run. This us why a 2000 Watt generator can't run a 5000 BTU window AC unit.
Yes there are easy start add-ons that reduce the compressor starting power spike.
A typical 5000 BTU AC uses 500-600 Watts while running and around 2000-2400 Watts to start the compressor.
A 3000 BTU AC should need about 350 Watts running and 1400 Watts to start the compressor.
The smallest mini split that I've seen was 8000 BTU, requiring about 960 Watts to run and 3800 Watts to start the compressor.
My RV's bedroom has a 13,500 BTU AC which requires about 1620 Watts to run and 6500 Watts to start the compressor.
I would use the 3000 BTU mini split when it's mildly warm, perhaps up to the low 80's with a target room temperature of 72-74F. The bedroom doors would be shut.
Obviously in hotter climates the main AC unit(s) would be needed, but often the tiny mini split would be great at night.
Even though the tiny mini split would likely not cycle much compared to the 13,500 BTU, the actual battery savings would be very significant.
Running a 3000 BTU unit that rarely cycles would use about 350 Watts. Assuming it is run at night for 10 hours would use a bit over 3500 Watt/hour. Using it during the day could mean 6-10 hours run time (I assume that you only run it when outside temp exceeds about 74F). This would require between 2100 and 3500 Watt/hour.
Using the 13,500 BTU AC under the same conditions would require the compressor cycling often. The compressor normally comes when inside temp is about 1-2F above set point and turn off around 1-2F below set point. When the AC is oversized for the situation it makes the actual inside temperature much more uncomfortable. If you set the temp at 72F, you could experience swings as bad as 70F to 74F. While a small AC is still programmed with the same 2-4F swing it takes longer to hit the lower temp. This reduces experiencing a rapid cooldown every few minutes.
The AC cycling often will mean that much of the perceived savings of the compressor being off are used up by the power draw spike to start the compressor.
Also both the 3000 BTU and 13500 BTU AC will likely run the fan nearly continuously. The 3000 BTU AC usually would have a much smaller fan.
If the set temp is too low (usually because people mistakenly believe setting the AC to 50F will cool the room much faster than 70F) the AC unit's coils can freeze up, literally creating a block of ice damaging the coils (permanently reducing it's efficiency) and preventing the AC from being able to produce cool air and causing power use that does no cooling. The larger the AC the easier it is to freeze it up and the longer for it to de-ice.
A 13,500 BTU AC requires about 1620 Watts to run. If it ran continuously it would require 16,200 Watts/hour. Based on the BTU rating it should run about 4.5 times less (I'm assuming the conditions are perfect for 3000 BTU). This means that the compressor would only run about 2 hours and 15 minutes during the 10 hour period. This would require 3600 Watt/hour compared to 3500 Watt/hour for the 3000 BTU.
The 13,500 BTU AC would draw perhaps 100 Watts to run the fan. 10 hours minus 2.25 hours (compressor run time) means 7.75 hours of fan run time, an additional 775 Watt/hours. Now we are at 4375 Watt/hour. This doesn't account for the compressor cycling on and off.
Then there is an issue that the compressor would actually run more often as it would cutoff around 74f (assuming 72F set point) and turn on at about 70F. I believe that with a low 80F outside temp that the room would warm up quick enough to require more than 2.25 hours of run time in 10 hours.
If your location has very high humidity (like south east US) the 3000 BTU may not be able to control humidity while the 13,500 BTU AC might require a 68F set point in order to force it to run enough to maintain a stable and comfortable humidity.
In ideal conditions using the 13500 BTU AC would use at least 4375 Watt/hour (and likely significantly more as the compressor may actually run 50% of the time instead of 22.5%) compared to about 3500 watt/hour for the 3000 BTU; an increase of 875 Watt/hour. I would bet actual power usage is closer to double, around 7000 watt/hour vs 3500 Watt/hour.
Then there are the cases where I would run the 15,000 BTU AC in the main room combined with the 3000 BTU bedroom unit to save power usage.
There could be times when it is hot and humid enough that I'd run the 3000, 13,500 and 15,000 BTU units at the same time. This would require shore power or using my 9600 Watt generator.
875 Watt/hour is of little to no concern at home; but in off grid situations it matters, especially for an RV with limited capacities for batteries (space and weight).
That is the whole course!!! I am copy/pasting this into a text doc so that I can print it and refer to it.
1. 24:10 Daikin standard minimal pipe is 3 meters
I use 1/4” toggles. Vet strong
yup, 280 pounds sheer weight in 1/2" drywall!
Nice work 👍🏼👍🏼
Della has the QC series that is using R32. Can I use the same vacuum as for the R-410a.
Really good job…, Thanks 🙏
Looks great! I've heard the 220v is much more efficient. Higher initial cost, less power consumption?
Yes but would have required additional wiring.
Nice clean job! Well done now you just have to avoid all the super duper keyboard techs that have never made a mistake in their life lol! Love your channel man keep up the great work!!!
salty handyman LOL
you mean licensed handy man lol@@chimpo131
I am just curious, as a "DIY" kit, pre-charged and everything. I see you put a vacuum on the line before opening the refrigerant lines. As a DIY'er I do not have a vacuum for A/C lines. Is this a must before opening the lines are was that just a extra precaution you took because you are able?
Can the condensor unit be mounted in the attic with drain tube going outside? I guess you would need a pump to get the water up. Prob not doable.
What did he do with the junction box and wall finish inside the room where he attached the mc cable?
Great video.
I had an issue with the left side of the condenser too...
Very well explained. He should be an instructor!!
🙏🏻 thank you!
What R410A Adapter 5/16" SAE Female to 1/4" is on the end of your true blue hose with the blue screw thingy? :) thanks
My wife and I replaced our furnace adding center air at the same time in our American Fork home. Best investment we’ve made in our late 1940s home. A previous homeowner sliced off a corner of the garage and turned into insulated space. It has a 240v baseboard heater as there’s no way to connect a duct from the central system. I’ve been considering a DIY mini-split ac installation. Is the fancy core removal tool and valve kit essential? A previous commenter suggested renting an automobile vacuum extraction setup. Is that adequate? Is there a way Joe blow handyman homeowner could evacuate the lines w/o the vacuum pump?
you need a 2 stage pump and guages(preferably a micron guage) to get a deep vacuum in the lines. The deep vacuum will remove moisture by breaking it up into hydrogen and oxygen(kinda=sorta)and remove those gasses. air and moisture wreck havoc on the refrigerant/oils. The core removal tool(preferably two- one 5/16" and one 1/4")) is an absolute necessary step($35-$50). Look at acservicetechchannel videos for more comprehensive details on these minisplits and regular HVAC. His books are great, too! He recently release an Minisplit book
vevor or amazon has a vacuum for 140 or so, there is also a line spray that can be used instead of vacuum
Thanks for the video,... What would the Labor charge be for an Installation without all the Plaster & Siding patch work ?
It all depends on the company. For us, probably $2000 labor
as soon as you mentioned you were working at a HOA I felt sorry for you...