Pertinent information without the BS! Most videos out there have way too much, “Look at me.” Your capturing folks because your teaching raw! Thanks for sharing and look fwd to more knowledge!
Great format, easy to follow yet still hitting important tips. Your years of experience make it look so easy! Definitely motivational for us DIY’ers to get practicing.
I'm a Canadian welder/fabricator, with over 30 years in the trade. I learned metric in school, but most fab shops I've worked for use imperial on the shop floor... I actually prefer it for fabricating... gets annoying when you start dealing with 10,452 mm, layout a hole center 🤣 one of the tricks I like finding the center of a measurement goes like this: half of 3/4 is 3/8, half of 3/8 is 3/16, half of 3/16 is 3/32... half of 5/8 is 5/16, makes laying out centers easy.
I just bought a 92 mighty max with 94k miles on it and plan on finally building a mini truck. Your videos have given me all kinds of ideas and inspiration. Thanx buddy!
That’s exciting! If you’ve got questions, feel free to ask! I don’t know much about the engines, but I know the bagging process like the back of my hand. Best of luck, Brad! Can’t wait to see it. 🙌
Awesome capping technique. Not many people know those tricks. I enjoy your channel a lot, reminds me of a friend that says "knowledge should be shared" 👍🏻
I could not agree more. The inspiration for this channel was all the folks that willingly shared their knowledge with me. I still remember the joy of learning new things for free when I couldn’t pay for school. Those people got me where I am today.
Bro I absolutely love your videos. I watched every single 1 of them. I love how Detailed your instructions are and the creativity is awesome. all around just perfect goddamn videos thanks man.
Thank you for the kind words! Is the swap done already or are you going to tackle it? We’ll have to swap notes. I haven’t done one yet so it’ll definitely be a learning process.
@@GarageFab It’s still a project that needs to be finished up. Most of the fabrication stuff is done except for the transmission mount (engine was moved forward 2in). I pretty much need to do that, plumbing for cooling/intercooler piping and then wiring. I’m pretty familiar with the 4g63 being that my first and forever car is a 99 gsx. The truck will be on the back burner since I’m gonna be building my car and I’m still in college, however expect to get it done by the end of the year
Very cool! I’ve hit a snag with the cooling system at the back of the head. It looks like I bought an Eclipse with the wrong motor. Getting the coolant hose neck at the back of the head is going to take some creative fab work. Can’t wait to see yours. 👏
@@GarageFab there’s definitely a few ways of going about the swap. The youtube channel “til the wheels fall off” used a 7 bolt motor like yours if you want to reference him. Mine is a 6 bolt so I’m using the mighty max water pump/pipe and I plan on a running a custom water pipe to run on the intake side around the engine. The previous owner made a provision to route it towards the driver’s side. There’s also Mitsubishi 90 degree thermostat housing that gives you a bit more room but I can’t seem to find one from a junkyard now that I’m kinda looking out for one. I’ve also seen people take the freeze plug off to run a pipe in the front but I also heard it can be bad for coolant flow. The person who I bought mine from has a brother-in-law (who’s parting out his swap rn) and he used a 7 bolt with the thermostat housing in the front for his drift truck
I found several 90°necks at the junkyard and they were all badly corroded so I ended up buying a Dorman from the auto parts store. (Surprisingly good quality) That’s when I found out my thermostat housing is different so I can’t use that neck. THEN I found out the head is different so I can’t swap thermostat housings. 😤 You have an Instagram?
Can’t wait for your next video on this build I’m going to copy everything you do on my 1996 Hardbody four link setup . This is my first four link and I’ve been searching for detailed videos , then I found your channel, please keep going with this build🙏..
I have to keep going! It’s my Wife’s. She’ll divorce me if I quit. 😅 I’m glad you’ll get some use from them. There will definitely be more coming but just a lil slower than usually while we renovate our house. Can’t wait to see your Hardbody!
With his capacity to visualize, then execute… Would be cool to see his efforts exercised in designing and fabricating front suspension, and independent rears
You’re in luck! Front suspension is in progress now and the next truck project is all wheel drive, 4 wheel independent… With 4 wheel steering among several other things. Thank you my friend!
I like the filters for showing the welding process, the time thing is good . I know some dont have an attention span more than 5 minutes but i would watch a quality video no matter the length . Great job sir keep up the great content .
Thank you! The welding shots were experimental with only settings and a polarizing filter. That sparked my interest in maybe finding some welding helmet glass to get some really impressive crazy clear closeup slo mo welding shots.
Also, I like the short videos! I think it must be a little less daunting for you as a creator to have to deal with more condensed topics (and footage), but the viewer still gets to check in and see your face/get some of your knowledge! two thumbs up!
I’m getting there! Thanks, Larry. That’s good to hear. The shorter ones are definitely much easier to keep up with. The next video to be released is under 20 minutes long, but it’s taken me well over two months to create. 🤷♂️
ManKandy, I love the videos. Very inspirational and educational for the novice builder. I'm installing a weld-in 4-link in my '66 Plymouth Valiant. I have no idea what I'm doing, but you've helped clear up a lot of mud in my brain. Thanks!!
Excellent video as always on point.. ..pro tip always use a limescale pencil I believe there called ..then u can see it very clearly while welding AND the heat don't kill it like a pen where heat often makes the ink disappear and by memory the limescale won't effect the weld but the ink will..memory can be wrong 🤦
Awesome like always! I consider the value and entertainment is more important then the length of the videos, because I would watch either as long as the content is good! Keep up the great work! I'm learning a ton with your videos and I'm working my way to really start fabbing! 😬👍
Haha! The only right way to start fabbing is to start! Go build something terrible and then make improvements. Thank you for the kind words! I’m going to try and stick with short-form for a little while. I’d love to get in a rhythm of a video a week. (Unlikely with a day job but we’ll see) A larger quantity of shorter videos I think will actually increase the amount of good info. Cheers my friend! 🍻
Thank you! Very helpful. I’d prefer to put out more complete videos like “Rear Suspension Beginning to End” but there’s so much involved that video could take months to produce and be an hour long. Instead we’ll try “Crossmember” “Link Bar Tabs” “Link Bars” “Watts Link” and so on… I appreciate you, Corey!
I like the bite-size Contin to be able to understand in get what you’re attempting to do this is a better tool of content to teach other people how to fabricate triangulated four links and thank you🙏🏽😊👍🏽🤙🏽
I really needed this eye-candy to explore new ideas for my situation ! I have my lower arm installed in fixed diff. axle factory plates via u-bolts / cut off rear leaf spring at diff . axle mounting . / .. I detached arm from the truck frame & moved that arm up & down to see if the pinion angle changed ..it didn't so I reattached it ... I have the rear axle at desired ride height . I will it seems need to correct pinion angle which now points up ward & not inline with drive shaft ..via wedge ... I am trying to use what is there already ... / the top of diff rear end , center point I will triangulate from center of top diff axle to a frame to frame cross member like what you built to attach upper triangulated bars to run parallel with lower bar ... there's not much rear end travel at all when my truck had full leaf springs .. Not trying to obtain more travel .. just want a non full leaf spring set up .. I will mount a BFO coil over on top of diff. on each side .. that will lift & shock absorb the rear end ... That is my plan to keep it simple light weight .. what do you think ?
Longer or shorter either way I'm enjoying the ride. You said you're looking to go with the watts link so I'm definitely looking forward to that down the road. Keep up the great work and I can't wait for the next one.
Yes! But not with the brake I used. There’s a magnetic brake I hope to purchase sometime in the near future, that allows you to make a completely closed box of essentially infinite height. So cool! With t my brake, you can only make up to 5 sides of a very limited height box.
Aaron this was so cool! Glad to see you back on here! That’s so cool to learn that about the cross member cut! I will definitely be using this! I wish someone would do a how to on raising the bed floor of a mini truck. I have my Hardbody and I want to bag it and I know the bed will need to be cut to make it lay frame but I still wanna use my truck for certain things.
Thank you, Dina! Just before starting the channel I raised the floor on an old Dodge. That definitely would have made a great video. If you send me some photos of the Hardbody bed on Instagram I can try and walk you through it. 👍
i do the tape measure foldy trick too. works for thirds and such as well. i try to avoid any and all math and measuring if i can. just sharpy marks and string lines.
@@GarageFab im a machinist so i get that math math math. but im a fabricator so i also get if it looks right, it is right. most folks are one or the other and have a hard time seeing things from the other persons perspective. People want us to be scientists and engineers, when really we are artists working in a mechanical {or practical} medium.
I’ve tried. I even announced the switch to metric. I purchased all kinds of metric measuring gadgets! (a tape measure included) I realized immediately that because every manufacture of parts in America and every supplier of material in America uses the imperial measurement system, measuring in metric was going to be far too much of a challenge. Unfortunately we’re stuck in a rut. Forever forced to use inches and pounds until one day everyone in the US magically switches to metric overnight.
Glad to here your back at it love the content in your video's .All so well explained and good tips and the good thing is not all builders build the same way ,could you tell me the advantages/disadvantages between 4 link Parallel & Triangulated 4 Link Cheers Neil in the UK .
Thank you for the kind words, Neil! Gladly! That’s a far better question to ask than “Which is better?” Since it really depends on what the builder intends to use the vehicle for. The main advantage of a Triangulated 4-link is that the angled bars keep the axle centered under the vehicle so there’s no need for a panhard bar or watts link. That’s a huge plus for off-road vehicles that need to articulate a bunch or need a lot of travel because panhard bars especially can limit movement. The disadvantage is Triangulated 4 links are not as stable laterally as a vehicle with a panhard or watts link which makes it a little less ideal for road racing or Autocross. You can correct the excess play in the bushings by swapping in heim joints but those are expensive and they can make for a rougher ride. Parallel 4-links are easier to understand, build and tune. They take up less room than a Triangulated 4-link but some sort of axle locator is needed, like a panhard bar on static height vehicles, a watts link on adjustable vehicles, or wishbone on either. A Parallel 4 link is very stable even with softer bushings which makes it great in hard turns, slalom, etc. while still having a comfortable ride. Both setups can be designed to keep pinion angle in check, provide anti-squat properties, and create or eliminate roll-steer. Hopefully that was what you were looking for. If not I’ll try again. Cheers!
@@GarageFab Thanks for that mate its for a 48 Mercury Coupe i have ,i am planning on bagging it i have all the running gear including a front clip out of a 69 400ci firebird (long gone ) Engine fully rebuilt nd 350 trans ltd slip diff .Im hoping you have give me the kick up the R S to get started if not after Dare i say Chxxxtmas .I have a few jobs in the house that need doing first so we will see once again many thanks Neil .P.S . it wont go on a track im just a cruzer these days lol.
Sounds like it could go either way for you. If you want to keep the rear seat, a parallel link setup might serve you best since you can often position the link bars on the sides of where the seat bottom would go. A triangulated setup would work just fine as well but the floor in the rear would likely need to be replaced to make room for the angled bars. 🤷♂️ Good luck my man. Can’t wait to see it!
@@GarageFab Thats great info you answered questions before i have asked them ? i really want to keep all the seats usable as we go away to weekend shows/meets ,so thats a great point about seats the other point (that you will already know lol) what would be the best link ends from your recent comments im miles off .I was thinking along the lines of spherical rod ends But im guessing not (for the best road use ) once again Aaron thanks a lot P.S. I hope you and your family are ok and got through all the Covid FN SXXT
All has been fantastic, thank you for asking. We’re some of the luckier ones. I’m a Toyota/Lexus Tech by day so I was considered “essential” and no one got sick. Not even a cold. You? From what I know about your project so far, I’d recommend plain ol’ boring poly bushing ends. You don’t need much articulation so Heim joints would just be a waste of money unless you prefer to feel every crack in the road. (Some people do) If you just have an itch to spend lots of money, grab some Johnny Joints! They have some extra motion like spherical ends but they have some polyurethane to soften things up a little bit. You’ll get a little better ride and empty your wallet at the same time!
I'm in Canada that uses metric. I absolutely DESPISE metric! I always use standard, it's what I grew up with and to me it is far better than the HATED metric.
REALLY!? What is it that you hate so much? I just started getting the hang of standard measurement over the last few years. I’m 40!!! It should not take that long to learn anything! I got a types of metric measuring devices now and so far I’m loving it. I am NOT loving that all the stores still use inches and feet when buying material. Oh well. I guess I’ll get really good at converting I’m my head. 👍
@@GarageFab I hate it because every measurement ends in "meter" or "liter" etc. Also people do not use half the designations like decameter and decimeter. It's confusing! Half the time a measurement sound way too large and other times too small. How tall are you. 178.4cm. I mean WTAF? I find inches and feet just right. The only time I actually want to use metric is when I'm cc-ing combustion chambers, then the measurement IS just right. Don't even get me started on metric threads! I'm almost 68 and perhaps I'm just stuck in my ways.
Bro! That sounded like all the reasons to LOVE metric. I was wondering why I learned about Decimeters in elementary but never hear it in the real world. I’m a certified Toyota/Lexus Technician so I love me metric fasteners too! 😂
I love the bite size version because it packs a lot of info without the readers digest storyline, as far as math goes, I'll stick with sae, it's easier than you think if you realize an inch is divided by 16, any fraction can be broken in half simply by multiplying the bottom number by 2 and leave the top number the same, 3/4 ÷ 2 = 3/8, 5/8 ÷ 2 = 5/16,,, it's not that complicated 😉
Thank you Geoffrey! Bite sized videos seem to be slightly easier to produce as well so I think that format is here to stay. I don’t disagree with you. I’ve finally got the hang of SAE but it took a LONG time. If I’m being honest, only the videos will switch to metric for the viewers sake. I learned almost immediately that using metric in America comes with it’s own challenges. Mostly when purchasing parts or material since everything is priced in inches and feet. 🤦🏻♂️
@@GarageFab I'm guessing you must be in Canada, it's hard to tell just watching hotrods being built, I've been building custom cabinets for several years and the problem I have with metrics is the wood is being sold in odd sizes while the tool, saw blades and router bits, are in sae sizes, it makes for a lot of extra work to get a tight fit you would expect in high end furniture, you keep building and I'll keep watching. Have a great day
It seems all the CZcamsrs are in Canada! I’m actually in Las Vegas Nevada. Do you post your builds online? I have a love for custom furniture. I’d love to see it. Since starting the channel I’ve only posted a couple furniture related videos disguised as fabrication tip videos. One being a miter cut tutorial and the other on Patina. Thank you for the kind words my man! See you in the next one.
@@GarageFab Vegas baby, that's cool, no I've never posted any of my cabinet work mostly because it's a job for clients who are always in a hurry, it's like they've been thinking about it for years and somehow believe it can be built in a day, it's been pretty slow for people spending money so I'm spending more time building my 47 Ford truck rat-ish rod
As an American the metric system just makes sense. However having to buy new hammers and shovels sorta sucks. Someone needs to invent metric hammers and shovels.
Outstanding content. I learned more from your videos than most of the other CZcamsrs. The 4 link suspension series was great I liked how you explained everything on there. I have a question for a heavy duty truck like a 3500 what type of thickness would you need for a parallel 4 link system?
Thank you, Juan that’s a huge compliment! As for the link bars, do you have a design planned already? Is it important to you to limit weight? I’m a proud over-builder and don’t care if my truck weighs as much as a tank. Whereas someone who races probably wants the strongest link bars with minimal weight. Link bar wall thickness won’t change much between mini trucks and full size trucks. More important are things like, Will the air springs be on the bars or in the axle? Will the link bars be straight or curved/bent? Factory engine or something more powerful? Will you be towing?
@@GarageFab Thank you for the response. I have a 1988 r30 dually running project. It's a squarebody in a weird year. I'm planning on putting a welding machine with my tools and haul an rv. Right now it has the original motor which is a 350 5.7. I'm going to eventually put a 12v cummins in it. As far as suspension goes probably going to put air bags on the axle with the parallel 4 link and a watts link too. So I need it to be able to handle the weight and load. Anyways, i can't really tell you how much your videos have helped me understand the fundamentals of suspension. If you could do some more videos about the suspension applications for towing or racing. That would be great. Again thank you for replying. Keep up the great work. Eventually your going to be a top CZcams. I don't doubt it.
Sounds like you’ve already got the right idea. Putting the air springs on the axle is the only way to go if you need to support a load. You sacrifice some overall lift and it’s a bit rougher but safety is far more important. Also since you’re axle will be bearing all the weight, the link bars are only pushing and stopping the vehicle. My D50 had the same engine (TPI 5.7) with bags on the axle with 1.5” bars 1/8” wall. I think you could get away with the same… but why not just use 1/4” wall? 🤔 As for the videos, they probably won’t go much farther than Suspension Basics. Once outside the world of Mini Truck suspensions, my knowledge starts to fade. I’ll gladly just spark interest in people and motivate them to continue their education. Thank you again, Juan!
The Imperial system of measurement isn't that difficult to comprehend. The easiest thing to do is forego units larger than an inch and you'll have, essentially, the metric system. Whole numbers that can easily be subdivided into fractions or decimal form. If something measured 8' 4-7/16", just convert it into decimal form to get 100.4375. If this seems too difficult, I don't think it has anything to do with someone's comprehension of the Metric or Imperial systems.
I won’t bother making an argument out of this one… but your “easy” conversion is precisely the challenge with the Imperial system. For people like me who are severely mathematically challenged, that’s not even close to easy. In fact it would probably take me several minutes to figure out how you came up with your answer. I have gained a decent grasp of the basics of the Imperial measuring system and it doesn’t challenge me as much as it once did, but just because you and I have learned it, doesn’t make it simple. I don’t think a measuring system should require intermediate math skill to decipher, or in my case, conversion tables and calculators.
@@GarageFab What I'm saying is this: The Imperial and Metric system, when broken down, are almost identical. They're a unit of measure, that can both use a base scale of 10. Don't use feet and inches (fractional or otherwise). Instead, only use inches with a decimal. So, my example of 8' 4-7/16", when looking at your tape measure, instead reads 100.4375in. Are you going to tell me it's easier to read a metric ruler, when you have to break/guess between subdivisions, than an Imperial one? I understand some might have an issue, but it's really not that difficult.
This is 7 months too late, but I'm a fan of shorter quick hit videos. I probably miss a lot of good stuff cause it's not often I'll settle in for a 40 minute video. I mean hell, that's gonna take a piss break and a round the snacks to get through that...
First of all… Ew. It’s been 7 months already? Second, let me ask you this then. The video I’m currently working on (watts link) is going to be a long one. What would YOU prefer? A 30 minute video? Or a video broken into two parts; The custom differential cover followed by the watts link itself?
Let me expand on my earlier comment, most videos I see that are weighing in at 50 minutes and, OMG, over an hour, would only be 30 minutes if you boiled out the empty dialogue, and multi minute, real time lathe or milling machine traversing. From what I've seen, your style is more action packed and when you speak there's something to listen to, to the point where I will sometimes rewind and listen to it again just to make sure I didn't miss anything. Your fab footage is like good porn and focuses on the mechanics without all the drama. Who needs a 30 minute porn video? That's like 28 minutes of wasted time... in summary, you can hold my, and I think other viewers' attention for thirty minutes.
I haven’t laughed that hard in a really long time. So what you’re saying is, Don’t make your video too good, because you don’t want your viewer to finish 2 minutes in. Noted! We’ll see how the watts link video plays out. Maybe everyone will get the dreaded “To be continued…”
Hey ManKandy. As I recalll, in episode 9, when you built the custom fuel tank, you said you'd let us know how the POR15 Fuel tank sealant worked out in the next episode. Well, this is episode 10, sooo..... How did that turn out? I'm am anxious to know, as I am considering doing exactly what you have done. I'll keep watching and hoping to see the update. Thanks!
Sorry, Ronald! I didn’t expect the project to go as far south as it did. An update video will still be coming but I’ll spoil it for you so you don’t have to wait any longer. I wasn’t happy with the POR15 at all. The directions said to pour in the can, turn the tank to coat all sides, and then drain the excess and let it dry. After coating all sides, it didn’t look coated. It was shiny but you could still see the metal underneath. The photos showed a silver coating, but it looked like clear coat with some silver metallic in it. So rather than draining the excess, I coated all the sides again. And again. And again. Each time getting a little better, but I could still see the metal below. So I decided to just leave the whole can in and coat the sides repeatedly until the whole cab was used up. Finally it looked like the photos. Silver. After letting it dry for the day, when inspecting I found huge air bubbles that had formed between the metal and the tank liner. Like pizza crust bubbles. I was incredibly unhappy at this point. I realize it was my fault because I didn’t follow instructions. When discussing it with some other folks, I heard stories of POR15 tank liner dissolving and clogging filters and fuel injectors. I was told a two-part epoxy liner like Tank Kreem is the only way to go. As if I wasn’t unhappy enough. So that’s where I’m at currently. A bubbled up liner that I want to remove. But how? I’ve got ideas. Starting with aircraft stripper hoping it works. Maybe fire. Maybe starting over and build a new tank? 😬
@@GarageFab Thanks for the explanation and the heads up. I guess you could call this experience, because "Experience is what you get, when you don't get what you wanted." Good luck getting the tank cleaned and recoated.
The next episode after this is “How to Make Identical Duplicate Parts with a Grinder” czcams.com/video/RKF0EqqETWU/video.html The episode after that is in production right now! See you soon!
I noticed you commented on using a 2X4 1/4 wall tubing of your dhopping cart cart handle. Would you be making a video about " the difference wall thickness of metal that you use to fabricate your chassis" ? Z notch front frame etc
Likely but probably won’t be anytime soon. The current build has most of the framework done already. I’m an overbuilder though. I think most often factory frames are between 1/8”-3/16” thick and sometimes layered. My notches are usually 3/16” plate and the gusseted/fish plated with another 3/16”
I’ve decided to not make the switch after all. 😔 Imperial sucks but everything in the US is sold using inches and things got really complicated really fast. I will, however, start putting the metric conversion on the screen whenever I’m measuring something starting with the next project!
I suppose there’s room for condensed videos but…. I prefer long form presentations I guess do both A wise man once said..Different strokes for different folks
It’s starting to look like the majority will be of the shorter variety. For a little while anyway. I’m trying to keep up with a biweekly schedule. The longer videos take… longer! That doesn’t mean the long ones won’t still appear here and there.
What happens if you use one crossmember with brackets that allow upper and lower link bars to attach too? Is it just a power/strength thing (V8, 9” rear, fat tires, etc)?
That’s perfectly acceptable! That’s usually how I do things and it makes things easier when building a parallel 4 link. If you scroll a little through my Instagram @garagefab you’ll see a couple of examples. I generally use 1/4” wall 2x4” rectangle tubing but that’s likely overkill. Just make sure it’s strong if you plan to mount any of the bars near the center like on a triangulated 4 link.
I can’t say I love metric yet but I predict a very easy transition. The challenges will be communicating with others and having to constantly convert measurements when I go to the store.
Hahahaha! I should delete that. She’ll get a complex if she reads it. But no, The next project is 100% mine so I have no need for this one. Words cannot express my excitement that every item I check off the list on this truck brings me a little closer mine. P.S. You should be excited too. 🥳
@@GarageFab I must admit you've had some over-the-top creations. But I've loved them all. So if you're going all out like this on her Mighty Max. Then I definitely can't wait for you to unveil your next project. I give you a ton of respect for being able to work on your vehicle. I just don't have the time anymore. So I spend those hard earned 💵 to make it happen. I SALUTE U SIR🎆🙏🏿👌🏿✊🏿🙌🏿👏🏿🙌🏿👏🏿
I feel you! Not having time for my own creations is the reason this channel was born and I stopped accepting commission work. Now if I can just get CZcams to pay my bills. 🤔 A small “hint” on the next project: LS4x2 AWD
i noticed you are using alot of red flap discs. Do yourself a favor. Try Klingspor SMT Flaps in Alumina Zirconia {blue} or Lubricated Alumina Zirconia {Green}
Where do you purchase them? I recently discovered Cubitron II flap discs thanks to an old friend/viewer. I literally cannot imagine anything being more effective. They're expensive but they absolutely shred metal. (NOT for detail work) They don't create metal dust. They make steel wool. They've cut my grinding time in half at least.
Any ideas on how to lower the spindles (drop spindles) on our mighty max (mitsubishi L200) here in the Philippines... Or may be you can send me... Lol...
Unfortunately you can’t safely modify spindles. You either need to build them from scratch or purchase some. Search for Chassis Tech 2” drop spindles. They’re spendy but worth your safety. I’ll likely do a video on creating spindles at some point but I imagine it won’t be anytime soon.
Hey, Jon! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own… Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5 I hope you love them as much as I do.
Well I guess it depends on your definition of soon. I’m really hoping to be wrapping this project up near the end of this year so I can start on another truck. But there’s a lot of suspension/framework to do in the front before I need to start worrying about the engine. So… 3ish months?
Haha! I agree. Partially. I now have a good grasp on simple calculations but it didn’t come easy. I learned suspension geometry and had years of welding experience long before I understood Imperial measurement. I admittedly still use the folded tape measure trick even when I already have the answer in my head as a sort of confirmation that I’m not wrong. Nothing worse than construction mistakes caused by a simple miscalculation. Thank you, Ty!
@@GarageFab so you are listening to you talk and have the volume set for that, then you stop talking and get blasted by music. Then you turn it down, you start talking and can't hear you... Turns many people off. Not necessarily saying get rid of it all together, but just turn it down a bit. The point of the vid should be what you say, not the music video part.
Pertinent information without the BS! Most videos out there have way too much, “Look at me.” Your capturing folks because your teaching raw! Thanks for sharing and look fwd to more knowledge!
Very kind words, David, thank you. You are appreciated! More coming down the pipe shortly! 🍻
Ten minutes, not enough. Great channel! More! More!
I could edit less! It would be 3 hours. But it would be reeeeeeeally boring!
Great format. Easy to understand what specific topic every clip is about.
Greetings from Sweden.
Thank you, Lee. Thrilled to hear videos are making it all the way to Sweden!
You are appreciated. 🙏
So far i like what I'm seeing here and learning valuable information. I now know that I'll be following your teachings! Thanks JD
Thank you, JD! Happy to have my my man. See you this Sunday! 🙌
Great format, easy to follow yet still hitting important tips. Your years of experience make it look so easy! Definitely motivational for us DIY’ers to get practicing.
Nah, I think it’s the time-lapse that makes it look easy! A ten minutes of video equals nearly 6 hours of work. I don’t think it ever gets easy.
I'm a Canadian welder/fabricator, with over 30 years in the trade. I learned metric in school, but most fab shops I've worked for use imperial on the shop floor... I actually prefer it for fabricating... gets annoying when you start dealing with 10,452 mm, layout a hole center 🤣 one of the tricks I like finding the center of a measurement goes like this: half of 3/4 is 3/8, half of 3/8 is 3/16, half of 3/16 is 3/32... half of 5/8 is 5/16, makes laying out centers easy.
Great measurement tip for finding center
Much appreciated! 🙌
I just bought a 92 mighty max with 94k miles on it and plan on finally building a mini truck. Your videos have given me all kinds of ideas and inspiration. Thanx buddy!
That’s exciting! If you’ve got questions, feel free to ask! I don’t know much about the engines, but I know the bagging process like the back of my hand.
Best of luck, Brad! Can’t wait to see it. 🙌
Great video. I feel the information you were trying to explain was conveyed. I am up for more content. Thank you for sharing your skill.
Thank you for watching, Norman! Have a great weekend. 👊
Cool. I like the cross member creation simplicity.
These are super helpful. Thanks for putting these videos together.
My pleasure Steven. Thank you for watching.
Awesome capping technique. Not many people know those tricks. I enjoy your channel a lot, reminds me of a friend that says "knowledge should be shared" 👍🏻
I could not agree more. The inspiration for this channel was all the folks that willingly shared their knowledge with me. I still remember the joy of learning new things for free when I couldn’t pay for school. Those people got me where I am today.
I love the new format. Thanks for all the info.
My pleasure, Tony! Thank you 🙏
Bro I absolutely love your videos. I watched every single 1 of them. I love how Detailed your instructions are and the creativity is awesome. all around just perfect goddamn videos thanks man.
Thank you, Ben! I appreciate your time, your eyeballs, and your kind words more than you know. 🙏
AWESOME JOB ,very well explained
Thank you my friend! 🙌
I just picked up my own 4g swapped mighty max project. You have some of the most informative and entertaining content so keep the videos coming!
Thank you for the kind words! Is the swap done already or are you going to tackle it? We’ll have to swap notes. I haven’t done one yet so it’ll definitely be a learning process.
@@GarageFab It’s still a project that needs to be finished up. Most of the fabrication stuff is done except for the transmission mount (engine was moved forward 2in). I pretty much need to do that, plumbing for cooling/intercooler piping and then wiring. I’m pretty familiar with the 4g63 being that my first and forever car is a 99 gsx. The truck will be on the back burner since I’m gonna be building my car and I’m still in college, however expect to get it done by the end of the year
Very cool! I’ve hit a snag with the cooling system at the back of the head. It looks like I bought an Eclipse with the wrong motor. Getting the coolant hose neck at the back of the head is going to take some creative fab work. Can’t wait to see yours. 👏
@@GarageFab there’s definitely a few ways of going about the swap. The youtube channel “til the wheels fall off” used a 7 bolt motor like yours if you want to reference him. Mine is a 6 bolt so I’m using the mighty max water pump/pipe and I plan on a running a custom water pipe to run on the intake side around the engine. The previous owner made a provision to route it towards the driver’s side. There’s also Mitsubishi 90 degree thermostat housing that gives you a bit more room but I can’t seem to find one from a junkyard now that I’m kinda looking out for one. I’ve also seen people take the freeze plug off to run a pipe in the front but I also heard it can be bad for coolant flow. The person who I bought mine from has a brother-in-law (who’s parting out his swap rn) and he used a 7 bolt with the thermostat housing in the front for his drift truck
I found several 90°necks at the junkyard and they were all badly corroded so I ended up buying a Dorman from the auto parts store. (Surprisingly good quality) That’s when I found out my thermostat housing is different so I can’t use that neck. THEN I found out the head is different so I can’t swap thermostat housings. 😤
You have an Instagram?
Looks great. Nice job Aaron.
Thank you, Kelly!
Can’t wait for your next video on this build I’m going to copy everything you do on my 1996 Hardbody four link setup . This is my first four link and I’ve been searching for detailed videos , then I found your channel, please keep going with this build🙏..
I have to keep going! It’s my Wife’s. She’ll divorce me if I quit. 😅 I’m glad you’ll get some use from them. There will definitely be more coming but just a lil slower than usually while we renovate our house. Can’t wait to see your Hardbody!
This is a great way to format .Awesome
Thank you, Keith! 🙏
With his capacity to visualize, then execute…
Would be cool to see his efforts exercised in designing and fabricating front suspension, and independent rears
You’re in luck! Front suspension is in progress now and the next truck project is all wheel drive, 4 wheel independent… With 4 wheel steering among several other things. Thank you my friend!
I like the filters for showing the welding process, the time thing is good . I know some dont have an attention span more than 5 minutes but i would watch a quality video no matter the length . Great job sir keep up the great content .
Thank you! The welding shots were experimental with only settings and a polarizing filter. That sparked my interest in maybe finding some welding helmet glass to get some really impressive crazy clear closeup slo mo welding shots.
I really enjoy your videos. The new format is great. Thanks
Thank you, Sir!! More to come. I appreciate you. 🍻
You're a really talented fabricator!
Also, I like the short videos! I think it must be a little less daunting for you as a creator to have to deal with more condensed topics (and footage), but the viewer still gets to check in and see your face/get some of your knowledge! two thumbs up!
I’m getting there! Thanks, Larry. That’s good to hear. The shorter ones are definitely much easier to keep up with. The next video to be released is under 20 minutes long, but it’s taken me well over two months to create. 🤷♂️
Your short format is great. Nice videos great personality, keep up the good work.
Thank you for the kind words, Woody! More sub-ten minute videos to come. 🍻
ManKandy, I love the videos. Very inspirational and educational for the novice builder. I'm installing a weld-in 4-link in my '66 Plymouth Valiant. I have no idea what I'm doing, but you've helped clear up a lot of mud in my brain. Thanks!!
Thank you for the kind words, Tim! It’s exciting to hear someone using the info outside of the Mini Truck scene. I can’t wait to see it! Cheers! 🍻
Awesome videos and Chanel glad I found this in process of redoing my rear link setup on my bagged Mazda
Thank you, Chad! I hope your find it helpful in the real world. Feel free to ask questions if you need to. Good luck my friend. 🍻
Freedom Fractions FTW!
🙌 Yes! I still hate them tho!
Awesome video!! Thank you brother!!
Thank you, Jaison!
Excellent video as always on point.. ..pro tip always use a limescale pencil I believe there called ..then u can see it very clearly while welding AND the heat don't kill it like a pen where heat often makes the ink disappear and by memory the limescale won't effect the weld but the ink will..memory can be wrong 🤦
I’ll take it! I have a soapstone marking tool, but I always forget I have it. I wonder if that’s the same thing. 🤔 Thank you!
I just watched all of your videos so far over the last two days. You are doing a fantastic job! Loving all of the information!!
Thank you for the kind words! You are very much appreciated. More in the works! 👊
I'm an American expat living and working in Saudi Arabia. A few gear heads over here.
Very nice! Happy to hear my videos are making it across the water.
Waiting for the next video!
Tomorrow at 6pm Pacific if the upload completes in time! 🙌
The format was great :-)
Thank you Dan! I’ll stay with it then. Cheers!
Thanks for these videos😊 they've made life alot easier..
Love your videos keep them coming please. Don’t change a thing. I Watched all your videos in one night. So you need more videos ASAP!!
Thank you, Scotty. Your words are appreciated. I’ll be going at it as long as I can. 🙌
You do beautiful work
Thank you, Kurtis! 🙏
Awesome like always! I consider the value and entertainment is more important then the length of the videos, because I would watch either as long as the content is good! Keep up the great work! I'm learning a ton with your videos and I'm working my way to really start fabbing! 😬👍
Haha! The only right way to start fabbing is to start! Go build something terrible and then make improvements.
Thank you for the kind words! I’m going to try and stick with short-form for a little while. I’d love to get in a rhythm of a video a week. (Unlikely with a day job but we’ll see) A larger quantity of shorter videos I think will actually increase the amount of good info. Cheers my friend! 🍻
The cut down video format is still just as awesome and informative. Great work dude!
Thank you! Very helpful. I’d prefer to put out more complete videos like “Rear Suspension Beginning to End” but there’s so much involved that video could take months to produce and be an hour long.
Instead we’ll try “Crossmember” “Link Bar Tabs” “Link Bars” “Watts Link” and so on…
I appreciate you, Corey!
@@GarageFab Yea I agree with that also to make it easier for a builder to find the info they need quick, just by looking for a video title.
I like the bite-size Contin to be able to understand in get what you’re attempting to do this is a better tool of content to teach other people how to fabricate triangulated four links and thank you🙏🏽😊👍🏽🤙🏽
Perfect! Much appreciated my friend! 🍻
Sweet job, i dig it!
Thank you my man!
Gotta say, love your videos and your suspension video series. Definitely very helpful to get an understanding over it all. Keep it up!
Thank you, Carlos! More on the way. Getting a bit more complicated now and harder to produce but they’re coming! Cheers!
I really needed this eye-candy to explore new ideas for my situation ! I have my lower arm installed in fixed diff. axle factory plates via u-bolts / cut off rear leaf spring at diff . axle mounting . / .. I detached arm from the truck frame & moved that arm up & down to see if the pinion angle changed ..it didn't so I reattached it ... I have the rear axle at desired ride height . I will it seems need to correct pinion angle which now points up ward & not inline with drive shaft ..via wedge ... I am trying to use what is there already ... / the top of diff rear end , center point I will triangulate from center of top diff axle to a frame to frame cross member like what you built to attach upper triangulated bars to run parallel with lower bar ... there's not much rear end travel at all when my truck had full leaf springs .. Not trying to obtain more travel .. just want a non full leaf spring set up .. I will mount a BFO coil over on top of diff. on each side .. that will lift & shock absorb the rear end ... That is my plan to keep it simple light weight .. what do you think ?
Great video sir!
Thank you, my friend. 🙏
Glad to see some new content and couldn't agree more with your decisions great video and work
Much appreciated my friend! 🙌
Love the short form videos. Keep ‘em coming!
Thank you, Greg! SUPER short one drops at 6pm pacific today. 😉
Longer or shorter either way I'm enjoying the ride. You said you're looking to go with the watts link so I'm definitely looking forward to that down the road. Keep up the great work and I can't wait for the next one.
Thank you Coty! I’m excited for the Watts link as well. I haven’t had any requests from customers so the last one I built was on my D50 15 years ago.
i like bite size videos. Really good videos are ok being longer. Not sure when i first subscribed, just recently started to notice and watch more.
Noted! Thank you Richard! 🙏
Watching from the uk. Awesome tips and tricks its great
Thank you Scott! It’s cool to hear stuff is making overseas. You are appreciated! Cheers.
@@GarageFab you are very welcome sir ive learned alot from your content and hoping to put it all in to practice soon looking forward to whats next
Right on. That’s what I like to hear! Go get it.
Awesome video the new format works great can't wait to see more keep up the good work
Thank you!!! Bite-sized it is. I appreciate you. 🍻
Hell yeah man keep making videos! You need to make a IG so people can follow you and share you on there
Thank you, Brother! Go check it out @GarageFab I’m not great at posting often because I’m usually too busy recording or editing but I try!
Aaron could you make the ends of the tank fold up on the brake instead of fabbing up end plates? This would reduce two welds.
Yes! But not with the brake I used. There’s a magnetic brake I hope to purchase sometime in the near future, that allows you to make a completely closed box of essentially infinite height. So cool! With t my brake, you can only make up to 5 sides of a very limited height box.
Whatever it takes to get more !
Whatever? Anything?! I could put a video out daily about clipping toenails.
@@GarageFab the channel is called Garage Fab is it not ? Not Toenail Fab ! . Fab fab fab and more fab please
@@GarageFab lmao do it!!
Aight. Fair enough.
Kiora is hello, here in New Zealand & we use metric any huge Great video Thanks for sharing
🙌 I looked that word up the first message you sent! I found Kia ora. Similar to be well.
My pleasure, John!
Hi yes you are correct it is commonly used as a greeting light hello
Aaron this was so cool! Glad to see you back on here! That’s so cool to learn that about the cross member cut! I will definitely be using this!
I wish someone would do a how to on raising the bed floor of a mini truck. I have my Hardbody and I want to bag it and I know the bed will need to be cut to make it lay frame but I still wanna use my truck for certain things.
Thank you, Dina! Just before starting the channel I raised the floor on an old Dodge. That definitely would have made a great video.
If you send me some photos of the Hardbody bed on Instagram I can try and walk you through it. 👍
@@GarageFab done Arron! Didn’t know you were on IG… I’m minitruckin_Dina there. Pictures and videos sent.
i do the tape measure foldy trick too. works for thirds and such as well. i try to avoid any and all math and measuring if i can. just sharpy marks and string lines.
That's good to hear. I expect backlash when sharing my methods of math avoidance. But I believe less math equals less mistakes.
@@GarageFab im a machinist so i get that math math math. but im a fabricator so i also get if it looks right, it is right. most folks are one or the other and have a hard time seeing things from the other persons perspective. People want us to be scientists and engineers, when really we are artists working in a mechanical {or practical} medium.
Poetically said!
Yes I love the format but still like the occasional alter ego comic relief 🤣
Dang. Are my videos so depressing you need comic relief!? 😂
He will return. Already have a scene recorded for the continuation in the motor build. 👍
@@GarageFab 🤣🥰
I need to make one of these for my 59
Please do! I’d love to see it if you’ve got an Instagram. @GarageFab
Been watching a lot of your videos 👍💰
I appreciate your time my friend! Hope you find them useful. 👊
@@GarageFab I find them very useful!!
🙌
MANK ANDY ... the suspension is killing me
🤓
I like all your vids, keep it up
Good thing you pointed out that subscribe button, I almost missed it
Right?! If I could make the button fill the screen I would. 😈
Right?! If I could make the button fill the screen I would. 😈
Right?! If I could make the button fill the screen I would. 😈
Next week, maybe add that slot machine "BUFFALO-oooo"
New subscriber! Outta Bakersfield,CA✌ awesome content brotha👍🏁
Thank you my man! Glad to have you. 🍻
I think we should send you a metric tape measure and see if it helps working on a metric truck
I’ve tried. I even announced the switch to metric. I purchased all kinds of metric measuring gadgets! (a tape measure included) I realized immediately that because every manufacture of parts in America and every supplier of material in America uses the imperial measurement system, measuring in metric was going to be far too much of a challenge.
Unfortunately we’re stuck in a rut. Forever forced to use inches and pounds until one day everyone in the US magically switches to metric overnight.
Glad to here your back at it love the content in your video's .All so well explained and good tips and the good thing is not all builders build the same way ,could you tell me the advantages/disadvantages between 4 link Parallel & Triangulated 4 Link Cheers Neil in the UK .
Thank you for the kind words, Neil!
Gladly! That’s a far better question to ask than “Which is better?” Since it really depends on what the builder intends to use the vehicle for.
The main advantage of a Triangulated 4-link is that the angled bars keep the axle centered under the vehicle so there’s no need for a panhard bar or watts link. That’s a huge plus for off-road vehicles that need to articulate a bunch or need a lot of travel because panhard bars especially can limit movement.
The disadvantage is Triangulated 4 links are not as stable laterally as a vehicle with a panhard or watts link which makes it a little less ideal for road racing or Autocross. You can correct the excess play in the bushings by swapping in heim joints but those are expensive and they can make for a rougher ride.
Parallel 4-links are easier to understand, build and tune. They take up less room than a Triangulated 4-link but some sort of axle locator is needed, like a panhard bar on static height vehicles, a watts link on adjustable vehicles, or wishbone on either. A Parallel 4 link is very stable even with softer bushings which makes it great in hard turns, slalom, etc. while still having a comfortable ride.
Both setups can be designed to keep pinion angle in check, provide anti-squat properties, and create or eliminate roll-steer.
Hopefully that was what you were looking for. If not I’ll try again.
Cheers!
@@GarageFab Thanks for that mate its for a 48 Mercury Coupe i have ,i am planning on bagging it i have all the running gear including a front clip out of a 69 400ci firebird (long gone ) Engine fully rebuilt nd 350 trans ltd slip diff .Im hoping you have give me the kick up the R S to get started if not after Dare i say Chxxxtmas .I have a few jobs in the house that need doing first so we will see once again many thanks Neil .P.S . it wont go on a track im just a cruzer these days lol.
Sounds like it could go either way for you. If you want to keep the rear seat, a parallel link setup might serve you best since you can often position the link bars on the sides of where the seat bottom would go.
A triangulated setup would work just fine as well but the floor in the rear would likely need to be replaced to make room for the angled bars. 🤷♂️
Good luck my man. Can’t wait to see it!
@@GarageFab Thats great info you answered questions before i have asked them ? i really want to keep all the seats usable as we go away to weekend shows/meets ,so thats a great point about seats the other point (that you will already know lol) what would be the best link ends from your recent comments im miles off .I was thinking along the lines of spherical rod ends But im guessing not (for the best road use ) once again Aaron thanks a lot P.S. I hope you and your family are ok and got through all the Covid FN SXXT
All has been fantastic, thank you for asking. We’re some of the luckier ones. I’m a Toyota/Lexus Tech by day so I was considered “essential” and no one got sick. Not even a cold. You?
From what I know about your project so far, I’d recommend plain ol’ boring poly bushing ends. You don’t need much articulation so Heim joints would just be a waste of money unless you prefer to feel every crack in the road. (Some people do)
If you just have an itch to spend lots of money, grab some Johnny Joints! They have some extra motion like spherical ends but they have some polyurethane to soften things up a little bit. You’ll get a little better ride and empty your wallet at the same time!
I've been watching in United Kingdom since day 1, just saying 😉
Another good video as always
Yeah, but you invented the Imperial measurement system. 😂
Thank you, Jake. I appreciate you Brother! 🍻
I'm in Canada that uses metric. I absolutely DESPISE metric! I always use standard, it's what I grew up with and to me it is far better than the HATED metric.
REALLY!? What is it that you hate so much?
I just started getting the hang of standard measurement over the last few years. I’m 40!!! It should not take that long to learn anything!
I got a types of metric measuring devices now and so far I’m loving it.
I am NOT loving that all the stores still use inches and feet when buying material.
Oh well. I guess I’ll get really good at converting I’m my head. 👍
@@GarageFab I hate it because every measurement ends in "meter" or "liter" etc. Also people do not use half the designations like decameter and decimeter. It's confusing! Half the time a measurement sound way too large and other times too small. How tall are you. 178.4cm. I mean WTAF? I find inches and feet just right. The only time I actually want to use metric is when I'm cc-ing combustion chambers, then the measurement IS just right. Don't even get me started on metric threads! I'm almost 68 and perhaps I'm just stuck in my ways.
Bro! That sounded like all the reasons to LOVE metric. I was wondering why I learned about Decimeters in elementary but never hear it in the real world.
I’m a certified Toyota/Lexus Technician so I love me metric fasteners too! 😂
@@GarageFab Silent scream of metric agony....
I love the bite size version because it packs a lot of info without the readers digest storyline, as far as math goes, I'll stick with sae, it's easier than you think if you realize an inch is divided by 16, any fraction can be broken in half simply by multiplying the bottom number by 2 and leave the top number the same, 3/4 ÷ 2 = 3/8, 5/8 ÷ 2 = 5/16,,, it's not that complicated 😉
Thank you Geoffrey! Bite sized videos seem to be slightly easier to produce as well so I think that format is here to stay.
I don’t disagree with you. I’ve finally got the hang of SAE but it took a LONG time. If I’m being honest, only the videos will switch to metric for the viewers sake. I learned almost immediately that using metric in America comes with it’s own challenges. Mostly when purchasing parts or material since everything is priced in inches and feet. 🤦🏻♂️
@@GarageFab I'm guessing you must be in Canada, it's hard to tell just watching hotrods being built, I've been building custom cabinets for several years and the problem I have with metrics is the wood is being sold in odd sizes while the tool, saw blades and router bits, are in sae sizes, it makes for a lot of extra work to get a tight fit you would expect in high end furniture, you keep building and I'll keep watching. Have a great day
It seems all the CZcamsrs are in Canada! I’m actually in Las Vegas Nevada. Do you post your builds online? I have a love for custom furniture. I’d love to see it. Since starting the channel I’ve only posted a couple furniture related videos disguised as fabrication tip videos. One being a miter cut tutorial and the other on Patina.
Thank you for the kind words my man! See you in the next one.
@@GarageFab Vegas baby, that's cool, no I've never posted any of my cabinet work mostly because it's a job for clients who are always in a hurry, it's like they've been thinking about it for years and somehow believe it can be built in a day, it's been pretty slow for people spending money so I'm spending more time building my 47 Ford truck rat-ish rod
As an American the metric system just makes sense. However having to buy new hammers and shovels sorta sucks. Someone needs to invent metric hammers and shovels.
Amen. Nothing worse than having to do conversions for every nail. 😩
Outstanding content. I learned more from your videos than most of the other CZcamsrs. The 4 link suspension series was great I liked how you explained everything on there. I have a question for a heavy duty truck like a 3500 what type of thickness would you need for a parallel 4 link system?
Thank you, Juan that’s a huge compliment!
As for the link bars, do you have a design planned already? Is it important to you to limit weight? I’m a proud over-builder and don’t care if my truck weighs as much as a tank. Whereas someone who races probably wants the strongest link bars with minimal weight.
Link bar wall thickness won’t change much between mini trucks and full size trucks. More important are things like, Will the air springs be on the bars or in the axle? Will the link bars be straight or curved/bent? Factory engine or something more powerful? Will you be towing?
@@GarageFab Thank you for the response. I have a 1988 r30 dually running project. It's a squarebody in a weird year. I'm planning on putting a welding machine with my tools and haul an rv. Right now it has the original motor which is a 350 5.7. I'm going to eventually put a 12v cummins in it. As far as suspension goes probably going to put air bags on the axle with the parallel 4 link and a watts link too. So I need it to be able to handle the weight and load. Anyways, i can't really tell you how much your videos have helped me understand the fundamentals of suspension. If you could do some more videos about the suspension applications for towing or racing. That would be great. Again thank you for replying. Keep up the great work. Eventually your going to be a top CZcams. I don't doubt it.
Sounds like you’ve already got the right idea. Putting the air springs on the axle is the only way to go if you need to support a load. You sacrifice some overall lift and it’s a bit rougher but safety is far more important.
Also since you’re axle will be bearing all the weight, the link bars are only pushing and stopping the vehicle. My D50 had the same engine (TPI 5.7) with bags on the axle with 1.5” bars 1/8” wall. I think you could get away with the same… but why not just use 1/4” wall? 🤔
As for the videos, they probably won’t go much farther than Suspension Basics. Once outside the world of Mini Truck suspensions, my knowledge starts to fade. I’ll gladly just spark interest in people and motivate them to continue their education.
Thank you again, Juan!
@@GarageFab awesome! I can't wait to see more of your videos. Including the instuctional toe clipping video. Lmao
The Imperial system of measurement isn't that difficult to comprehend. The easiest thing to do is forego units larger than an inch and you'll have, essentially, the metric system. Whole numbers that can easily be subdivided into fractions or decimal form. If something measured 8' 4-7/16", just convert it into decimal form to get 100.4375. If this seems too difficult, I don't think it has anything to do with someone's comprehension of the Metric or Imperial systems.
I won’t bother making an argument out of this one… but your “easy” conversion is precisely the challenge with the Imperial system. For people like me who are severely mathematically challenged, that’s not even close to easy. In fact it would probably take me several minutes to figure out how you came up with your answer. I have gained a decent grasp of the basics of the Imperial measuring system and it doesn’t challenge me as much as it once did, but just because you and I have learned it, doesn’t make it simple. I don’t think a measuring system should require intermediate math skill to decipher, or in my case, conversion tables and calculators.
@@GarageFab What I'm saying is this:
The Imperial and Metric system, when broken down, are almost identical. They're a unit of measure, that can both use a base scale of 10.
Don't use feet and inches (fractional or otherwise). Instead, only use inches with a decimal.
So, my example of 8' 4-7/16", when looking at your tape measure, instead reads 100.4375in. Are you going to tell me it's easier to read a metric ruler, when you have to break/guess between subdivisions, than an Imperial one?
I understand some might have an issue, but it's really not that difficult.
This is 7 months too late, but I'm a fan of shorter quick hit videos. I probably miss a lot of good stuff cause it's not often I'll settle in for a 40 minute video. I mean hell, that's gonna take a piss break and a round the snacks to get through that...
First of all… Ew. It’s been 7 months already?
Second, let me ask you this then. The video I’m currently working on (watts link) is going to be a long one. What would YOU prefer? A 30 minute video? Or a video broken into two parts; The custom differential cover followed by the watts link itself?
Let me expand on my earlier comment, most videos I see that are weighing in at 50 minutes and, OMG, over an hour, would only be 30 minutes if you boiled out the empty dialogue, and multi minute, real time lathe or milling machine traversing. From what I've seen, your style is more action packed and when you speak there's something to listen to, to the point where I will sometimes rewind and listen to it again just to make sure I didn't miss anything. Your fab footage is like good porn and focuses on the mechanics without all the drama. Who needs a 30 minute porn video? That's like 28 minutes of wasted time... in summary, you can hold my, and I think other viewers' attention for thirty minutes.
I haven’t laughed that hard in a really long time.
So what you’re saying is, Don’t make your video too good, because you don’t want your viewer to finish 2 minutes in. Noted!
We’ll see how the watts link video plays out. Maybe everyone will get the dreaded “To be continued…”
Hey ManKandy. As I recalll, in episode 9, when you built the custom fuel tank, you said you'd let us know how the POR15 Fuel tank sealant worked out in the next episode. Well, this is episode 10, sooo..... How did that turn out? I'm am anxious to know, as I am considering doing exactly what you have done. I'll keep watching and hoping to see the update. Thanks!
Sorry, Ronald! I didn’t expect the project to go as far south as it did. An update video will still be coming but I’ll spoil it for you so you don’t have to wait any longer.
I wasn’t happy with the POR15 at all. The directions said to pour in the can, turn the tank to coat all sides, and then drain the excess and let it dry.
After coating all sides, it didn’t look coated. It was shiny but you could still see the metal underneath. The photos showed a silver coating, but it looked like clear coat with some silver metallic in it.
So rather than draining the excess, I coated all the sides again. And again. And again. Each time getting a little better, but I could still see the metal below. So I decided to just leave the whole can in and coat the sides repeatedly until the whole cab was used up. Finally it looked like the photos. Silver.
After letting it dry for the day, when inspecting I found huge air bubbles that had formed between the metal and the tank liner. Like pizza crust bubbles. I was incredibly unhappy at this point. I realize it was my fault because I didn’t follow instructions.
When discussing it with some other folks, I heard stories of POR15 tank liner dissolving and clogging filters and fuel injectors. I was told a two-part epoxy liner like Tank Kreem is the only way to go. As if I wasn’t unhappy enough.
So that’s where I’m at currently. A bubbled up liner that I want to remove. But how? I’ve got ideas. Starting with aircraft stripper hoping it works. Maybe fire. Maybe starting over and build a new tank? 😬
@@GarageFab Thanks for the explanation and the heads up. I guess you could call this experience, because "Experience is what you get, when you don't get what you wanted." Good luck getting the tank cleaned and recoated.
Need next episode
The next episode after this is “How to Make Identical Duplicate Parts with a Grinder”
czcams.com/video/RKF0EqqETWU/video.html
The episode after that is in production right now! See you soon!
I noticed you commented on using a 2X4 1/4 wall tubing of your dhopping cart cart handle. Would you be making a video about " the difference wall thickness of metal that you use to fabricate your chassis" ? Z notch front frame etc
Likely but probably won’t be anytime soon. The current build has most of the framework done already. I’m an overbuilder though.
I think most often factory frames are between 1/8”-3/16” thick and sometimes layered.
My notches are usually 3/16” plate and the gusseted/fish plated with another 3/16”
Yeh.... Get in to the metric system already!!!!!
I’ve decided to not make the switch after all. 😔 Imperial sucks but everything in the US is sold using inches and things got really complicated really fast.
I will, however, start putting the metric conversion on the screen whenever I’m measuring something starting with the next project!
I suppose there’s room for condensed videos but….
I prefer long form presentations
I guess do both
A wise man once said..Different strokes for different folks
It’s starting to look like the majority will be of the shorter variety. For a little while anyway. I’m trying to keep up with a biweekly schedule. The longer videos take… longer! That doesn’t mean the long ones won’t still appear here and there.
What happens if you use one crossmember with brackets that allow upper and lower link bars to attach too? Is it just a power/strength thing (V8, 9” rear, fat tires, etc)?
That’s perfectly acceptable! That’s usually how I do things and it makes things easier when building a parallel 4 link. If you scroll a little through my Instagram @garagefab you’ll see a couple of examples.
I generally use 1/4” wall 2x4” rectangle tubing but that’s likely overkill. Just make sure it’s strong if you plan to mount any of the bars near the center like on a triangulated 4 link.
Ha ha love metric. I only have 10 toes
I can’t say I love metric yet but I predict a very easy transition. The challenges will be communicating with others and having to constantly convert measurements when I go to the store.
Finally I've got my fix💉
When this Mighty Max is done. I have a sneaking suspicion that this will not be your wife's truck any longer.🤔🤫🤭💯
Hahahaha! I should delete that. She’ll get a complex if she reads it.
But no, The next project is 100% mine so I have no need for this one. Words cannot express my excitement that every item I check off the list on this truck brings me a little closer mine.
P.S. You should be excited too. 🥳
@@GarageFab I must admit you've had some over-the-top creations. But I've loved them all. So if you're going all out like this on her Mighty Max. Then I definitely can't wait for you to unveil your next project. I give you a ton of respect for being able to work on your vehicle. I just don't have the time anymore. So I spend those hard earned 💵 to make it happen. I SALUTE U SIR🎆🙏🏿👌🏿✊🏿🙌🏿👏🏿🙌🏿👏🏿
I feel you! Not having time for my own creations is the reason this channel was born and I stopped accepting commission work. Now if I can just get CZcams to pay my bills. 🤔
A small “hint” on the next project: LS4x2 AWD
@@GarageFab That sounds so sick💉🙏🏿😎
Es genial ser el primer comentario jaja
Estuvo genial hombre, saludos desde mex
¡Los comentarios demuestran quiénes son los verdaderos suscriptores! ¡Gracias hermano!
i noticed you are using alot of red flap discs. Do yourself a favor. Try Klingspor SMT Flaps in Alumina Zirconia {blue} or Lubricated Alumina Zirconia {Green}
Where do you purchase them? I recently discovered Cubitron II flap discs thanks to an old friend/viewer. I literally cannot imagine anything being more effective. They're expensive but they absolutely shred metal. (NOT for detail work) They don't create metal dust. They make steel wool. They've cut my grinding time in half at least.
Any ideas on how to lower the spindles (drop spindles) on our mighty max (mitsubishi L200) here in the Philippines... Or may be you can send me... Lol...
Unfortunately you can’t safely modify spindles. You either need to build them from scratch or purchase some. Search for Chassis Tech 2” drop spindles. They’re spendy but worth your safety.
I’ll likely do a video on creating spindles at some point but I imagine it won’t be anytime soon.
What are the drill bits/cutters you use called?
Hey, Jon! They’re called Hougen RotaCut Hole Cutters. They’re kinda pricey but worth every penny. Here’s a pair of associate links to the two specific sets I own…
Small amzn.to/3guFEwJ
Large amzn.to/3ukxxL5
I hope you love them as much as I do.
Yes, shorter videos but more content sir
Hopefully one will allow the other. Shorter videos take less time, which may provide releases more often.
@@GarageFab will we be seeing more videos of the engine soon?
Well I guess it depends on your definition of soon. I’m really hoping to be wrapping this project up near the end of this year so I can start on another truck. But there’s a lot of suspension/framework to do in the front before I need to start worrying about the engine. So… 3ish months?
is there a way I can get in touch with you directly for some info?
Hit me up on Instagram @GarageFab!
Thanks
I love the channel but if you can’t mentally divide 39 1/2 by 2 you probably shouldn’t be DIY your vehicles suspension.
Haha! I agree. Partially. I now have a good grasp on simple calculations but it didn’t come easy. I learned suspension geometry and had years of welding experience long before I understood Imperial measurement.
I admittedly still use the folded tape measure trick even when I already have the answer in my head as a sort of confirmation that I’m not wrong. Nothing worse than construction mistakes caused by a simple miscalculation.
Thank you, Ty!
@@GarageFab redundancy and contingency plans are what desperate the men from the boys. Good on ya and nice trick
👍🏽🇺🇸👍🏽
🙌
...don't have the music so loud...
Why not?
@@GarageFab so you are listening to you talk and have the volume set for that, then you stop talking and get blasted by music. Then you turn it down, you start talking and can't hear you... Turns many people off. Not necessarily saying get rid of it all together, but just turn it down a bit. The point of the vid should be what you say, not the music video part.
@@georgesimpson3113 Oh. Ok. Thank you, George! 🙌