Ford N series carburetor adjustment //DIAGRAM IN DESCRIPTION
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- čas přidán 23. 08. 2024
- in this video, we continue the carburetor replacement video by adjusting the carburetor on old Betsy the 1948/49 Ford 8n tractor. which is the same process for all Ford n series tractors.
the interesting thing is that the part number TSX 241B has replaced all other part numbers for the 9n and the 2n not just the 8n.
carburetor diagram
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carburetor parts breakdown
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Ford 2n carburetor adjustment
N Series tractors aren't really all the same. They all have their own happy mediums. I don't think you need a rebuilt engine. Just from experience, don't go entirely off the manual. Just listening to your tractor as you are adjusting under load will actually be key. Great video, brotherman
Yeah, I have been learning that.
I think it sounds very nice, trust me. Heck the thing is twice as old as you so got to give it some credit.
That is crazy to think, but your right... it is just over twice as old as me.
Nice old tractor! I’m working on mine. Been sitting for a few years, got the carb off but no tag on it. It a Marvel but I got to measure it somehow to get the proper rebuild kit.
Best of luck.
Mine is currently down waiting on a new inner tube for the front right tire. Other than that, I have no complaints about this old iron
Assuming the carb is original (which is a big assumption) you can rebuild all the N series carbs with the TSX-241B kit to bring them up to that spec - in the era if you were getting a replacement carb from Ford you got a 241B no matter what, and the bodies were the same.
So we were able to find a new carb for the same price as a rebuild kit.
Unfortunately, the new carb did have some issues, and I ended up having to do a rebuild on the old one anyway.
I have an Early 8N , my I&T manual states the power needle , the one you turned out to one and three quarters turns , should be turned out one turn only to start `The idle mixture screw as shown on page 40 in the manual has a spring under it to hold the adjustment . I believe you started adjusting the wrong screw .
I am literally reading from the Ford owner manual
But maybe that I&T manual has a better way that Ford... or, just a different way.
Can't tell which way you turn the screw clockwise counter clockwise
You need a Marvel Schebler Carburetor TSX 33 TSX 241 or a Zenith 13876 they cost a lot more then what you have but worth it at the end of the day Good Luck.
I will look into that. Thanks
Thanks
Glad to have helped
I don't think the book was written for today's fuel
That may be true, this book was printed in 1947. They didn't have the high octane ratings that we have today.
What timing is your distributor set at? I’ve seen to time to TDC and some say -4 btdc
I didn't know that you could run these things 180° out.
Honestly I am not completely sure, when I rebuilt the distributor I left the engine in the same rotation and just took note of where it was in the firing order.
I may have to do some investigating
@@Tibbs_Farm yes, two sets of timing marks 180 apart. Supposed to remove #1 cyl spark plug and turn engine by hand. With finger over #1 hole you should get a rush of air that pushes finger off the hole. That should be TDC. You can open that port to the flywheel and it should be close to 0 (TDC). That is where the manual says to time it, but most people I’ve talked to with experience on the engine say to advance it 4 degrees.
Why the aftermarket inline fuel filter?
It has since been removed. Replaced with OEM hard line from the sediment bowl to the carburetor.
ITS AN OLD MOTOR GONNA RUN FAST
500 rpm is fine.. leave it alone and use that tractor..
You are right. 500 is just fine.
Fuel filter inlibe is not needed and backwards
Yeah that was my bad, but that fuel line has been replaced with an OEM hard line, and that fuel filter has been removed.
Also, the fuel tank and the fuel regulator[sediment bowl].
Do not say "RPMS" It's revolutions per minute .. not revolutions per minutes. Thanks for sharing.
Yeah, I caught that in editing, that is why I put the text up showing RPM.
Although now I kinda want to start saying Rs P M. Haha
@@Tibbs_Farm About 99 out of 100 times I hear anyone say it they say RPMs. Even well educated people. Another idiom is "hot water heater." It's a water heater, if the water were hot it wouldn't need heating.
@Jimi Hendrix oh... what about when people say ATM MACHINE (automated teller machine....machine)
Or BIT TEST (built in test test)
VIN Number (vehicle identification number number)
Your not getting an accurate reading the over running coupler .The original shaft spline is 1 1/8 inch not 1 3/8 inch . If you are going to run the idle at 400 RPM you have to adjust it when it’s at operating temperature and keep an eye on your oil pressure because it’s better to idle at 6 or 700 RPM and keep your oil pressure in a safe zone then getting the exact engine idle.Sure starts good and runs nice.
I agree with most of what you said.
This carburetor adjustment is coming straight out of the operators manual though. In fact I tried my best to read it verbatim to the camera before complying with the step.
mine sounds better than that why don’t u get some one that knows what their doing
Thanks for the information, I am sure to use it on future endeavors.