Good information. Carburetors are fairly simple, and in most cases can be rebuilt using the proper carburetor kits, especially original 8N carburetors. The aftermarket carburetors for 8N tractors are not all machined to OEM tolerances.
Perfect instruction and great advice... née sub here. Always need some good advice this is the best on CZcams.... I followed your advice and got my Allis Chalmers B working after it was sitting for 25 years... runs like new now! 👍
I did a rebuild on my 51 8N last year. A working tractor, not a show queen. Replaced and rebuilt everything from the clutch forward. It is a 6 v, + ground and the only issues are or seem to be carb issues. The tractor starts immediately, and runs like it should-until- I get on a hill with the starboard side, right, up. Then it wants to stall out. After watching your exceptional video I assume it is in the float adjustment. This is just a guess but will try it and see. Thanks for a really great video, concise and explained so even a liberal might understand it. Doubtful, but I didn't have any issues understanding it and learned a lot. I wish you could do a video as concise and explain how to fix this country........
Sound theory and worth a test. As far as the country... I just say a few choice words and forget about it. Grab more beer and go fishing. Idiots will be idiots.. and unfortunately there are plenty of those in the world today. I believe RON WHITE said it best. "You Can't Fix Stupid"
@@AtlastaFarM Thanks for the reply.... Working 40 acre "gentleman's farm in Madison County, NC and Bay River waterfront in Pamlico County. Either place has beer and fish. Come on down, or up!
Had a similar issue with my 49 8n. Get on a bad sidehill or into a ditch and the cross arm would pivot up and hit the distributor cap shorting one cylinder out, then run well when leveled out. Thought I was low on fuel.😂
Thank you for the great advice! I have a suggestion for a new topic: Magnitudes. I just took on an old Oliver CO3 crawler and I'm very hesitant to work on its points in fear of messing up the timing.
OK - 1+1/2 turns after gentle bottoming out. What about the long needle needle - the other one. .5, 1, 1.5 or 2 turns? Of course this is for an initial point but some starting point on these carbs is better than not knowing. Joe
Thank you for your time and clear explanation. I was wondering what is the adjustment on the number of turns on the main big I guess you called load screw, the one in the front side of the carburator? Thank you very much.
@@AtlastaFarM Thank you very much. The original carburator just cops total attitude, the tractor won't run at all after I took it apart and cleaned everything. It looks like cast iron. Then I had acquired another one, seems to be aluminium, the tractor runs with it but it is rough to say the least. I took it apart, cleaned everything, blew all the holes with air. On one hand I have to use to choke to get the tractor started and on the other hand I see gas in the neck of the carburator where the air intake pipe gets attached to. That seems that there is plenty gas on one hand and on the other one has to choke it. I gave up on the whole thing and I ordered a new one, hopefully will be here in the next couple of days and it will actually work. I also checked the governor. Took it out and I guess You spin the gear and see if the linkage kicks back. If it does, the governor is good, that is what a gentleman in another video was mentioning. So I installed it back. I took the distributor out. Everything looks clean and good. I did notice the 4 contacts on the cap, they looked like they were all being scrapped by the rotor. My experience back in the day was when I had replaced them in car, there were some sign of that on the cap but I don't recall being to this extent. So along with the carburator I ordered complete tune up kit, wires, plugs, cap, points, all that. I checked the compression, on all 4 cyclinder they were within 90-95 lbs each. I am hoping that the new carburator will work ( I heard that all these things are made in China and that it is all questionable anymore). There was about 1 gallon of gas left in the tank that was in it clear from last years fill. I poured another 5 gallons in it. I am hoping that the old gas didn't mess up the fresh one I poured there.
Best to see the link here... should take you directly at the time in the video where we set those adjustments >>>> czcams.com/video/qL_iyNAkBL4/video.htmlsi=FoDLU1xGQhHzh3Pi&t=1582
Previous owner installed a Chinese after market carb and my tractor dies going up hill only. Is there a way to repair that float so it doesn't close off fuel going up hill? Or do you think the needle is sticking and not releasing? The needle has spring tension, correct. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. Great presentation!
Wow, we missed this one! If you are still in the market, we would suggest going through Steinertractor.com. They are US based and sell quality parts and will stand behind them.
Im getting fuel in the breather pipe. It was like this before with a sticky float valve. I cleaned it up and now it run really well by the sound of it. This excess fuel still persists. Where did i go wrong?
It should have one... though there are some later replacement carbs that did away with a separate jet and instead just milled the orifice to fit the adjustment screw head instead. These machines are so old now , could easily have had the carb swapped or replaced with the other style in the last few decades at some point
Hey, thanks for the video, I just tryed to build mine, but it didn't feed gas to engine. I didn't see those two holes at the bottom. Gone to take down again. Also what should the screw on top the end be set at? Thanks A MILLION time over!
How is the "under load" needle adjusted??? I bought a '49 Ford 8n last spring.....but cannot get it to start this spring. It turns over but will not fire. Nice tractor but it needs attention....needs a tune up thanks for a response. I'm trying to learn to do my own maintenance...
First turn the screw down to the closed position but do not put any real pressure on it. Just tighten it snug.. then pick a reference point on the head of the screw and turn it counterclockwise at least 1 and 1/2 turns. Once the tractor is running watch the exhaust and throttle it like you are about to race . Then turn the screw counterclockwise and throttle each turn until you see puffs of black smoke when you throttle. Once you see black smoke then tighten the screw 1/4 turn and throttle it each time until you no longer see black smoke this sets your maximum fuel
Sorry, but no.. We stopped selling parts years ago... best place for ford is Steiner or Dennis Carpenter (google both. Carpenter is more restoration stuff.. Steiner is more into straight quality replacement parts
can u add a video of how to get the choke shaft out been scared to try mine didnt get a new butterfly with it and doesnt seem wanna come apart its a marvel schuber
We have a video coming soon ! It is a total rebuild of Marvel Shebler designs. Sorry for the wait, but most times it takes months to make these videos. Lots of re-shoots and editing, mostly because we like to use ultra simplified language and descriptions of how parts work so everyone including the most mechanically handicapped can understand whats going on. What tractor did your carb come off of?
Can you tell me What is the solenoid device threaded into the float bowl. It has a Electical wire that goes to the starter solenoid. What is the function of this unit....Hal
Need a little more info... What model tractor? and for timing, do you mean timing the assembly in a rebuild? or just setting base operating timing on a running engine?
Wow.. just found this comment 2 years later. Soo sorry I missed it. Even though its 2 years later,... no not really. I have looked into it but have not tried yet. We are looking into an industrial ultrasonic machine for doing major components (heads / blocks etc)
What ?? no comments? I have some questions. Mine is leaking fuel like bowl is over flowing after rebuild. I think it was before but don't remember. Working on it for a friend. I took it apart 3 or 4 times since and it seemslike the needle and seat is working perfectly when blowing with my mouth through fuel inlet fitting. If you don't turn fuel valve off it will pretty much drain the tank overnight. Tractor (NAA) runs perfectly fine. I'm curious if it could have a crack somewhere or is there a circuit I don't know about that could cause this? I'm a very experienced (Senior Master) Mechanic for over 20 yrs at a Ford Automotive dealership but of course very little experience with Carburetors. Thanks so much if you have any ideas.
Few things to look for... First is make absolutely sure the mating surfaces (where the gasket goes) are perfectly flat , no bows, no indentations, pitting, etc. Also be sure to look how the gasket centers on each face before assembly. We have recently had issues with gaskets not being trimmed just right, or being offset in such a way that they leak internally. You are correct in the thought of a crack in the housing and many times it is in the circuit of the seat. Usually where it can not be seen inside the body of the carb. Number one issue is warping in one or both halves of the body. No matter how well it looks to fit from the outside, inside it has a gap. This is why you should check for the flatness of the surfaces. Pretty much the same as checking the deck on a block or face of a head. One other fluke we have seen before ( rarely) but enough to mention. Make sure there is no pressure build up in the fuel tank. Only a few pounds is enough to push the needle off its seat and overflow the bowl. Usually the fuel rises enough to flow out the main jet.
I have the same problem, check to see if the floats have gas in one or both- I have run across where the float has a hole in it, fuel gets in and then raises the fuel level. I have fixed brass floats with fuel in them- it is a little tricky. ANYWAY - I think the floats on this guys ford tractor- he put air to the carb and partially collapsed the floats, So I am going to try to "raise" the float adj- so the needle shuts the fuel off sooner -
Either your float is damaged or set incorrectly..... or the needle and seat are damaged or have an obstruction.. If it has been recently rebuilt, definitely check the point on the needle, cheap kits have an issue with the point of the needle being manufactured off center and will not seal the hole in the seat
@@AtlastaFarM I and many others have messed with the carb. We have a to20 that runs half choke All So and someone else rebuiltb that carb, they way the plugs Have lots of carbon, with what I've done,you still recommend the same its with .020 gap?
That can really vary by model carb and model machine it is on, but normally the same starting point as the mixture screw setting will get you going and then fine tune from there. (1) Turn both screws all the way to seat. (DO NOT MAKE THEM TIGHT! Just till they bottom out.) (2) Next, turn the screws out 1.5 complete turns at minimum each. If it seems like it is not getting fuel or not enough fuel, then turn out the load screw another 1/2 turn at a time and try to start after each turn. The load screw is the large screw located on the end or bottom corner of Marvel Shebler carbs. Some lower mounted load screws may be "tee" valves instead of a typical screw but work exactly the same.
Can someone explain why my 9N was running fairly fine for an old tractor. then two days later I went to move a piece of equipment and got out in the field and all of a sudden it kept stalling out and would only run rough when I had the choke all the way out? I've check for clogged fuel line, but I got good flow to the Carburetor, but the bowl isn't filling up even though i've cleaned the jets and what have you. She turns over like she always has but it won't start.
Jeffrey Palmer try running without the fuel cap. Also try loosening the sediment bowl even to the point of dripping. Either there is a restriction in flow when the system is closed or the main mixture jet is clogged. This is all based on if you are sure it's a fuel volume issue.
Jeffrey Palmer next steps are checking for air leaks in intake. Most notably the flange where the carb mounts. Finally make sure the governor rod is moving freely. If all this tests out a bad coil will have these symptoms and make you chase fuel gremlins
Well i ended up putting the new Carb on and she fired right up just had to tune it. Just another quick question, the tractor seems to be stuck in a higher throttle and no matter where i position the throttle lever it stays the same.
you have to adjust it to lower the idle, somtimes the butterfly valve is stuck open by the screw that holds it open, you have to unscrew the screw and it will close your butterfly then the rpms should come down, the tractor should be spinning at 400 rpm at idle
We decided a live repair would be best for this model as it is such a notoriously tedious little 😈. Be sure to subscribe and ring that bell so you will be notified when it comes
Hollis Smith Have you made sure fuel flows from the tank through the line? Three carburetors means either the fuel outlet at the tank or the line from the sediment bowl to the carburetor is restricted. If no restriction then all the carburetors would have incorrect float settings or needle and seat issues. But hard to believe all three . Not knowing the condition of those carburetors...and giving the benefit of doubt that at least one of them would be good..I would have to go with the common denominator of a restricted fuel line or sediment bowl. First things first though... Pull the plug from the bottom of the carburetor bowl (usually 7/16 and use 6 point socket or wrench!) and you should have fuel flow. If not then work back from there. Take the line loose from the carb and check for flow. If good at the line but minimal to none at the drain...then the float needle setting is incorrect. If flow is good out of the drain and you are positive the float/needle settings are correct, then you need to check this video here czcams.com/video/sB22u_DWMag/video.html
Good information. Carburetors are fairly simple, and in most cases can be rebuilt using the proper carburetor kits, especially original 8N carburetors. The aftermarket carburetors for 8N tractors are not all machined to OEM tolerances.
Great vid!! Finally a vid from someone who actually knows there shit and didnt just read a manual
Their
Not even the carb I'll be rebuilding for my MF 65 but I learned SO much just now -Thanks!🎃
Very good explaining the carburetor.
Best explanation I have seen. After I checked out your store too. I can understand now why buying a new carb makes sense.
Perfect instruction and great advice... née sub here. Always need some good advice this is the best on CZcams.... I followed your advice and got my Allis Chalmers B working after it was sitting for 25 years... runs like new now! 👍
Sweet.. glad someone was able to apply this to other models!
Thank you very much for your time and this excellent video.
You are most welcome. Be sure to click the bell in the upper right corner to be notified when our new series rolls out along with other videos!
Picked up several really good pointers on this video. Thanks, well done.
Glad it was helpful!
I did a rebuild on my 51 8N last year. A working tractor, not a show queen. Replaced and rebuilt everything from the clutch forward. It is a 6 v, + ground and the only issues are or seem to be carb issues. The tractor starts immediately, and runs like it should-until- I get on a hill with the starboard side, right, up. Then it wants to stall out. After watching your exceptional video I assume it is in the float adjustment. This is just a guess but will try it and see.
Thanks for a really great video, concise and explained so even a liberal might understand it. Doubtful, but I didn't have any issues understanding it and learned a lot.
I wish you could do a video as concise and explain how to fix this country........
Sound theory and worth a test. As far as the country... I just say a few choice words and forget about it. Grab more beer and go fishing. Idiots will be idiots.. and unfortunately there are plenty of those in the world today. I believe RON WHITE said it best. "You Can't Fix Stupid"
@@AtlastaFarM Thanks for the reply....
Working 40 acre "gentleman's farm in Madison County, NC and Bay River waterfront in Pamlico County. Either place has beer and fish. Come on down, or up!
Now that is a plan!
Had a similar issue with my 49 8n. Get on a bad sidehill or into a ditch and the cross arm would pivot up and hit the distributor cap shorting one cylinder out, then run well when leveled out. Thought I was low on fuel.😂
Good tips for this newbie.
Thank you for the Float adjustments 49 9. Oklahoma
Thank you for the great advice! I have a suggestion for a new topic: Magnitudes. I just took on an old Oliver CO3 crawler and I'm very hesitant to work on its points in fear of messing up the timing.
Working on a magneto series.. though it did get put on the back burner for a bit.
@@AtlastaFarM Great news! I'll look forward to your advice.
OK - 1+1/2 turns after gentle bottoming out.
What about the long needle needle - the other one. .5, 1, 1.5 or 2 turns? Of course this is for an initial point but some starting point on these carbs is better than not knowing.
Joe
1 to 1.5 turns is the average starting range.
Best video I've seen for rebuilding these carburetor, thank you very much!
luke lewis
I rebuilt the carb on our to35 because for ferguson it costs $260 or more for a new carb as opposed to less than $100 for the Ford models.
Ferguson is more expensive for sure. Current cost in our store for a new one to fit a 35 fergie is $179 plus Shipping.
Nice helpful video ,showing some common problems and giving solutions found out by years of experience , not some live youtube "experiment
Thank you for the really useful information !!!!!
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. Taught me a couple things that I didn't know.
Thank you for your time and clear explanation.
I was wondering what is the adjustment on the number of turns on the main big I guess you called load screw, the one in the front side of the carburator?
Thank you very much.
From the closed position - turn counter-clockwise 2.5 turns (this should be good, but can go no more than 4 full turns)
@@AtlastaFarM Thank you very much.
The original carburator just cops total attitude, the tractor won't run at all after I took it apart and cleaned everything. It looks like cast iron.
Then I had acquired another one, seems to be aluminium, the tractor runs with it but it is rough to say the least. I took it apart, cleaned everything, blew all the holes with air. On one hand I have to use to choke to get the tractor started and on the other hand I see gas in the neck of the carburator where the air intake pipe gets attached to.
That seems that there is plenty gas on one hand and on the other one has to choke it. I gave up on the whole thing and I ordered a new one, hopefully will be here in the next couple of days and it will actually work.
I also checked the governor. Took it out and I guess You spin the gear and see if the linkage kicks back. If it does, the governor is good, that is what a gentleman in another video was mentioning. So I installed it back.
I took the distributor out. Everything looks clean and good. I did notice the 4 contacts on the cap, they looked like they were all being scrapped by the rotor.
My experience back in the day was when I had replaced them in car, there were some sign of that on the cap but I don't recall being to this extent. So along with the carburator I ordered complete tune up kit, wires, plugs, cap, points, all that.
I checked the compression, on all 4 cyclinder they were within 90-95 lbs each.
I am hoping that the new carburator will work ( I heard that all these things are made in China and that it is all questionable anymore).
There was about 1 gallon of gas left in the tank that was in it clear from last years fill. I poured another 5 gallons in it. I am hoping that the old gas didn't mess up the fresh one I poured there.
Better late than never..what is the start point of the main jet screw...just subscribed
Best to see the link here... should take you directly at the time in the video where we set those adjustments >>>> czcams.com/video/qL_iyNAkBL4/video.htmlsi=FoDLU1xGQhHzh3Pi&t=1582
@@AtlastaFarM awesome thanks!
Thanks for this video, great information. I got my 140 running so much better thanks to you.
Thanks a mint for the comment! Glad to know this is helping others out.
Really appreciate this video.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Previous owner installed a Chinese after market carb and my tractor dies going up hill only. Is there a way to repair that float so it doesn't close off fuel going up hill? Or do you think the needle is sticking and not releasing? The needle has spring tension, correct. Any advice you can give would be appreciated. Great presentation!
Thanks bud. Awesome video
Great info ! I thought the idle mixture screw should be 2.5 turns for initial adjustment and 1 turn on high speed screw.
That needle is your high speed adjustment
Have you done the video of rebuilding the Ford style Marvel Schebler? If you have a I may have missed it.
I'm sorry, I should have mentioned its off a MF135 Zenith carb...Hal
Great video, my carb has many issues and is in rough shape, what aftermarket carb would you suggest, so many out there?
Wow, we missed this one! If you are still in the market, we would suggest going through Steinertractor.com. They are US based and sell quality parts and will stand behind them.
Im getting fuel in the breather pipe. It was like this before with a sticky float valve. I cleaned it up and now it run really well by the sound of it. This excess fuel still persists. Where did i go wrong?
What model machine is this in?
nice information but, I got motion sickness trying to watch it. ever thought about getting a steady cam or a tri-pod?
please help. on my 57 860 with the same carb i dont have a jet in the hole you talking about at 3:06 is it a must to have ?
It should have one... though there are some later replacement carbs that did away with a separate jet and instead just milled the orifice to fit the adjustment screw head instead. These machines are so old now , could easily have had the carb swapped or replaced with the other style in the last few decades at some point
Good video, I have been trying to get my Dad's tractor going and I see I missed the very first point you discussed.
huge help
Hey, thanks for the video, I just tryed to build mine, but it didn't feed gas to engine. I didn't see those two holes at the bottom. Gone to take down again. Also what should the screw on top the end be set at? Thanks A MILLION time over!
We recommend starting with the screw 1-1.5 turns counter-clockwise
Dale Bourgeois Did your 2nd attempt work? I have same situation.
How is the "under load" needle adjusted??? I bought a '49 Ford 8n last spring.....but cannot get it to start this spring. It turns over but will not fire. Nice tractor but it needs attention....needs a tune up thanks for a response. I'm trying to learn to do my own maintenance...
First turn the screw down to the closed position but do not put any real pressure on it. Just tighten it snug.. then pick a reference point on the head of the screw and turn it counterclockwise at least 1 and 1/2 turns. Once the tractor is running watch the exhaust and throttle it like you are about to race . Then turn the screw counterclockwise and throttle each turn until you see puffs of black smoke when you throttle. Once you see black smoke then tighten the screw 1/4 turn and throttle it each time until you no longer see black smoke this sets your maximum fuel
Can I buy parts from you? I need a float and a venturi for my schreiber carb, Ford 8N.
Sorry, but no.. We stopped selling parts years ago... best place for ford is Steiner or Dennis Carpenter (google both. Carpenter is more restoration stuff.. Steiner is more into straight quality replacement parts
can u add a video of how to get the choke shaft out been scared to try mine didnt get a new butterfly with it and doesnt seem wanna come apart its a marvel schuber
We have a video coming soon ! It is a total rebuild of Marvel Shebler designs. Sorry for the wait, but most times it takes months to make these videos. Lots of re-shoots and editing, mostly because we like to use ultra simplified language and descriptions of how parts work so everyone including the most mechanically handicapped can understand whats going on.
What tractor did your carb come off of?
Take the screws off the butterfly. Slide the butterfly out. Slide the shaft out of the side of the bowl.
It comes apart, but you need to be careful.
Can you tell me What is the solenoid device threaded into the float bowl. It has a Electical wire that goes to the starter solenoid. What is the function of this unit....Hal
Hi Hal that is a electric fuel shut off solenoid.
How do I properly adjust the timing on the distributor
Need a little more info... What model tractor? and for timing, do you mean timing the assembly in a rebuild? or just setting base operating timing on a running engine?
I have a 1939 9n , whats the difference between 6 volt and 12 volt visually .
Battery, Wiring polarity, Regulator, Ignition coil
What causes leaking around the bowl
studio.czcams.com/users/videojKE5Z8c0w8w/edit
An ultrasonic cleaner is your friend.
Been looking into that.
Do you use an ultrasonic cleaner?
Wow.. just found this comment 2 years later. Soo sorry I missed it. Even though its 2 years later,... no not really. I have looked into it but have not tried yet. We are looking into an industrial ultrasonic machine for doing major components (heads / blocks etc)
What ?? no comments? I have some questions. Mine is leaking fuel like bowl is over flowing after rebuild. I think it was before but don't remember. Working on it for a friend. I took it apart 3 or 4 times since and it seemslike the needle and seat is working perfectly when blowing with my mouth through fuel inlet fitting. If you don't turn fuel valve off it will pretty much drain the tank overnight. Tractor (NAA) runs perfectly fine. I'm curious if it could have a crack somewhere or is there a circuit I don't know about that could cause this? I'm a very experienced (Senior Master) Mechanic for over 20 yrs at a Ford Automotive dealership but of course very little experience with Carburetors. Thanks so much if you have any ideas.
Few things to look for...
First is make absolutely sure the mating surfaces (where the gasket goes) are perfectly flat , no bows, no indentations, pitting, etc.
Also be sure to look how the gasket centers on each face before assembly. We have recently had issues with gaskets not being trimmed just right, or being offset in such a way that they leak internally.
You are correct in the thought of a crack in the housing and many times it is in the circuit of the seat. Usually where it can not be seen inside the body of the carb.
Number one issue is warping in one or both halves of the body. No matter how well it looks to fit from the outside, inside it has a gap. This is why you should check for the flatness of the surfaces. Pretty much the same as checking the deck on a block or face of a head.
One other fluke we have seen before ( rarely) but enough to mention. Make sure there is no pressure build up in the fuel tank. Only a few pounds is enough to push the needle off its seat and overflow the bowl. Usually the fuel rises enough to flow out the main jet.
I have the same problem, check to see if the floats have gas in one or both- I have run across where the float has a hole in it, fuel gets in and then raises the fuel level. I have fixed brass floats with fuel in them- it is a little tricky. ANYWAY - I think the floats on this guys ford tractor- he put air to the carb and partially collapsed the floats, So I am going to try to "raise" the float adj- so the needle shuts the fuel off sooner -
set that float quater/inch that probly take care of it.
When I try to start my tractor the fuel comes out of the front of the carb. Why would it do that? Seems worst when the choke is on.
Either your float is damaged or set incorrectly..... or the needle and seat are damaged or have an obstruction.. If it has been recently rebuilt, definitely check the point on the needle, cheap kits have an issue with the point of the needle being manufactured off center and will not seal the hole in the seat
@@AtlastaFarM it only does it when you turn the engine over. I did rebuild the carb. Float is set at 1/4 inch above the sealing surface.
My ford n8 starts runs then gas pours out the carb into the air intake tube. Any ideas? Thanks
float level is too high, or possible restriction in the intake system causes the engine to physically siphon the fuel (like using the choke does)
M&MS CLASSIC TRACTOR thank you i will give that a try.
I got a 44 2N and I jave to set the choke to half close. Run great. Id like it to run great with no choke. Any pointers? All appreccoated.
Turn the large screw counter clockwise 2 turns
@@AtlastaFarM I and many others have messed with the carb. We have a to20 that runs half choke All So and someone else rebuiltb that carb, they way the plugs Have lots of carbon, with what I've done,you still recommend the same its with .020 gap?
Yes
what do you set the load screw at to start with?
That can really vary by model carb and model machine it is on, but normally the same starting point as the mixture screw setting will get you going and then fine tune from there.
(1) Turn both screws all the way to seat.
(DO NOT MAKE THEM TIGHT! Just till they bottom out.)
(2) Next, turn the screws out 1.5 complete turns at minimum each.
If it seems like it is not getting fuel or not enough fuel, then turn out the load screw another 1/2 turn at a time and try to start after each turn.
The load screw is the large screw located on the end or bottom corner of Marvel Shebler carbs. Some lower mounted load screws may be "tee" valves instead of a typical screw but work exactly the same.
1.5 turns out on both screws
Can someone explain why my 9N was running fairly fine for an old tractor. then two days later I went to move a piece of equipment and got out in the field and all of a sudden it kept stalling out and would only run rough when I had the choke all the way out? I've check for clogged fuel line, but I got good flow to the Carburetor, but the bowl isn't filling up even though i've cleaned the jets and what have you. She turns over like she always has but it won't start.
Jeffrey Palmer try running without the fuel cap. Also try loosening the sediment bowl even to the point of dripping. Either there is a restriction in flow when the system is closed or the main mixture jet is clogged. This is all based on if you are sure it's a fuel volume issue.
Jeffrey Palmer next steps are checking for air leaks in intake. Most notably the flange where the carb mounts. Finally make sure the governor rod is moving freely. If all this tests out a bad coil will have these symptoms and make you chase fuel gremlins
Well i ended up putting the new Carb on and she fired right up just had to tune it. Just another quick question, the tractor seems to be stuck in a higher throttle and no matter where i position the throttle lever it stays the same.
Jeffrey Palmer governor linkage is sticking or governor itself
you have to adjust it to lower the idle, somtimes the butterfly valve is stuck open by the screw that holds it open, you have to unscrew the screw and it will close your butterfly then the rpms should come down, the tractor should be spinning at 400 rpm at idle
Wood love a Ford 3000 carb dos and don't
cummins that is definitely on the way. First will be the Holley carb. We are just waiting for one to come in that we can film.
We decided a live repair would be best for this model as it is such a notoriously tedious little 😈. Be sure to subscribe and ring that bell so you will be notified when it comes
Ok will do
Hi hav. a 8n put 3 carbs on it stil. cant get any fule. hav. 100 comp. on all cylwnder. any Help will be app.
Hollis Smith Have you made sure fuel flows from the tank through the line?
Three carburetors means either the fuel outlet at the tank or the line from the sediment bowl to the carburetor is restricted.
If no restriction then all the carburetors would have incorrect float settings or needle and seat issues. But hard to believe all three . Not knowing the condition of those carburetors...and giving the benefit of doubt that at least one of them would be good..I would have to go with the common denominator of a restricted fuel line or sediment bowl. First things first though... Pull the plug from the bottom of the carburetor bowl (usually 7/16 and use 6 point socket or wrench!) and you should have fuel flow. If not then work back from there. Take the line loose from the carb and check for flow. If good at the line but minimal to none at the drain...then the float needle setting is incorrect.
If flow is good out of the drain and you are positive the float/needle settings are correct, then you need to check this video here czcams.com/video/sB22u_DWMag/video.html
TKS> CARBS WORK FINE ON MY OTHER *8n I am buffaloed BU will figure it out.
@@AtlastaFarM r
Sounds stupid but what should i do