Thanks for making these videos. im 34 so i didn't grow up with carbureted cars. These videos have helped so much with troubleshooting my 68 El Camino and getting ready to rebuild my old carb
Great video! I am tackling my first Holley rebuild. I greatly appreciated you going slow and explaining each part and their function in the carb. Now - looking forward to part 2 - the assembly.
I rebuilt my first carb ever, a 4160 of the same vintage as this, and this video got me through the entire thing successfully. The only thing I did differently was rebuilt it in sections (primary bowl, secondary, main body) so I didn't have to keep track of as many parts. In doing so, I learned my electric choke was getting caught up and causing the throttle to stick. This video was exactly what I needed.
Yes! Definitely videos on wiring & electrical! That’s where I have most trouble! Currently I need to replace the ignition switch in the 1973 Winnebago Brave (Dodge RM-300 chassis), & not only do I need to find a replacement, but I also still need to get it out of the steering wheel column housing that’s in 3 sections, but I can’t figure out how to get the bottom section to lower down so I can access it! I’ve taken it apart so many times & then have to put it back together so I can tow it for street cleaning, so it’s a hassle. I’m figuring for now I’ll rebuild the carburetor, & maybe I can learn how to just Hotwire it, & do that until I can get the ignition switch & figure out how to fix it! LOL I’m an amateur, so it just takes me a lot longer to figure everything out, that’s why I love the educational “how to” videos for literally almost everything out there. I can’t afford to hire anyone, & in this city it’s best to just DIY, because most people don’t seem to know what they’re doing either, but the difference is, “if you want something done right, you need to do it yourself”, as the saying always goes! LOL Thanks!
Thank you very much!! I just inherited my grandfather's 57 Tbird and it has this carb. Never rebuilt one before but I'm 100% sure I can get it back together and running with your help. Couldn't have done it without you!
Great video! Very informative and your step by step directions on disassembly and reassembly made me feel confident that I could tackle my next holly rebuild, keep ‘em coming!
I try to use a see through plastic bag or containers to take apart things with springs, that way it’ll fly into the bag instead! Of course, if I don’t know if something is going to fly out in the first place, it’s hard to predict, so sometimes just using a see through plastic covering so you can see what you’re doing might save headaches of looking for flying parts! That’s my amateur tip, because I’m a complete amateur! LOL
That Coca-Cola will definitely break down any rust & impurities! At least the mid-1900’s Coca-Cola, but I’m sure the same formula still applies nowadays! LOL I have to rebuild my 4150 manual choke Holley, but I’ve never done one before, hence I’m studying & researching before I wrench!
If you use compressed air to blow out the passages, BE care full when you blow the holes on the opposite side of the brass air bleeds. Why? Because yestrday I spent hrs and finally found the 1 on the prim side blow out and ended up under the front end of my Camaro. I’ll red loctite that back in. So to be safe blow from the brass side which is the top of the carb opening or use lower pressure from the body side where the metering block mates to.😅
You stated that 4160 stood for vacuum secondary and 4150 stood for a double pumper. 4150 means the secondaries have a metering block. The 4160 means it has a secondary metering plate and no block.
Thank you for sharing... I needed help with my Holley not knowing what to do at all..I hope I can get those screws off without having to use the Holley tool..
If you are worried about those clutch screws in the secondary metering plate, just leave the plate on and hose out the holes with carb cleaner. Unless the gaskets that seals to the float bowl is torn, you can reuse it.
Awesome video's. I am about to rebuild my Ford spec Holley 4180C and this helps tremendously. Question, the gaskets for the secondary metering plate in the rebuild kit are lacking holes in two places compared to the originals. Do you know if this is something that was changed for drivability or other reason? or should I punch holes in them to match up with the originals?
I liked your video friend. I have a completely identical carburetor that I put on an original '75 Ford 302. The problem is that it doesn't have a stable idle, I have to close the mixture screws idle so that it is more stable, if you started to loosen them the engine begins to fail and try to shut down. If I rev the engine to 2000 rpm There are slight hesitation but if I partially close the choke it stops failing. When I start the engine, it starts stable but instantly crashes. The engine does not have emissions issues in the intake manifold, I already checked that it does not suck false air, the secondary ones are fine closed. I don't know what to do anymore friend, do you have any ideas? Thanks greetings
Sounds like you have fuel dripping out of the boosters at idle. Check float levels, make sure the needle/seats don't have something stuck in them. And, if you're using an aftermarket fuel pump, check the fuel pressure.
According to my book Holley lists 9834 as having a jet size of 42… series 1 has as 61, series 2 and 3 have a 68 jet. Hopefully that helps. Great video!!!! I’m about to rebuild my 25+ year old list 80457
Any thoughts on what to look for? I’m about to rebuild my Holley 4150 from 1969. Had it professionally done a few years ago but it’s always had a problem. Car starts fine when cold, but when the car is all warmed up, my engine will not start unless pedal to the floor. Choke is wide open at this point. I’ve replaced the power valve thinking it was leaking but same result. Any thoughts what to look for as I dive in?
Runs good when cold, but hard to start when warm usually means too much fuel. If you can't stall the engine by turning the idle mixture screws in, then fuel is dripping in from somewhere else. Make sure the floats are set correctly to start. But, also look at your spark plugs. Black and sooty would confirm a rich condition. But, if they are gold/brown in color, then maybe it's a weak spark problem.
HI, so my needle and seat, there is no spring action to my needle.. If I turn it upside down, needle goes one way, turn it the other way, and the needle goes the other way. Is there supposed to have a spring action? I don't have the rebuild kit to see what the news ones do.
@@RebeldryversGarage Great! Hey, I was watching your video, and found out I actually have a 4180, not 4160. Ford hired Holley to make a 'tamper proof' carb, and they did. For instance, my choke assembly, yours has three screws...mine has one screw, and two rivets. The four air mixture screws, they're encased in this tunnel thing, and the screw heads, are like rivet heads. There has to be a bunch of modification to this, in order to properly tune/rebuild it.
As soon as I saw the Impala I subscribed Lol. Got a '65 at home that I'm trying to get back into good running condition. I have a problem with the motor wanting to diesel when I shut it off. SBC 383 but it was also happening when I had a SBC305 with TBI on it, so I'm thinking it must be an ignition or fuel delivery issue. Haven't been able to figure it out. Great video!
Thanks for watching. I have a playlist on the Impala. Dieseling can come from a few different problems. Too cold of spark plugs, too much idle rpm, and crappy quality gas.
I think the most difficult thing for me is going to be putting that clip back in the choke linkage and i don't think my floats want to adjust with the screw and needle and seat? And I don't have a rebuild kit but the carburetor is gummed up and I need to take it apart and clean it as best as possible and put it back together using the old stuff until I can afford to clean it and rebuild it and it goes on a 400 M Ford that uses the kickdown..
I have a ton of these with no kit. But, if the carb hasn't been touched in years and years, don't try to open it without a kit. The gaskets will probably tear.
@@RebeldryversGarage maybe the old, non-emission ones only required regular tools. The '80s electronic (junk, IMO) carbs had these small "double-d" fasteners for some internal pieces.
Before making any changes to your carb. Be sure your timing is set correctly, and is advancing off idle. I fought for a week on a carb, only to notice my timing stayed right at initial timing as the engine tried to rev.
My advice is get rid of all of them. They are junk. Sorry to say. 😢 you spent all that time rebuilding it and start your car and it backfires well. Might as well start over again.
They only back fire when the carb isn't set up correctly, or the timing is way off. People drove millions of cars for 100 years every single day without issue.
Thanks for making these videos. im 34 so i didn't grow up with carbureted cars. These videos have helped so much with troubleshooting my 68 El Camino and getting ready to rebuild my old carb
Great video! I am tackling my first Holley rebuild. I greatly appreciated you going slow and explaining each part and their function in the carb. Now - looking forward to part 2 - the assembly.
There is a part 2 already up. Check it out.
I rebuilt my first carb ever, a 4160 of the same vintage as this, and this video got me through the entire thing successfully. The only thing I did differently was rebuilt it in sections (primary bowl, secondary, main body) so I didn't have to keep track of as many parts. In doing so, I learned my electric choke was getting caught up and causing the throttle to stick. This video was exactly what I needed.
Yes! Definitely videos on wiring & electrical! That’s where I have most trouble! Currently I need to replace the ignition switch in the 1973 Winnebago Brave (Dodge RM-300 chassis), & not only do I need to find a replacement, but I also still need to get it out of the steering wheel column housing that’s in 3 sections, but I can’t figure out how to get the bottom section to lower down so I can access it! I’ve taken it apart so many times & then have to put it back together so I can tow it for street cleaning, so it’s a hassle. I’m figuring for now I’ll rebuild the carburetor, & maybe I can learn how to just Hotwire it, & do that until I can get the ignition switch & figure out how to fix it! LOL
I’m an amateur, so it just takes me a lot longer to figure everything out, that’s why I love the educational “how to” videos for literally almost everything out there. I can’t afford to hire anyone, & in this city it’s best to just DIY, because most people don’t seem to know what they’re doing either, but the difference is, “if you want something done right, you need to do it yourself”, as the saying always goes! LOL Thanks!
I'm in the middle of rebuilding the carb on my 1964 Ford Galaxie. This video is extremely helpful and informative! Thank you!
Glad it helped. I just finished filming the part 3, which I tested it on my 64 Galaxie!!. Video should be up this weekend,
@@RebeldryversGarage That's great, I can't wait for part 3! Keep up the awesome vids brother 👍🏻👊🏻💪🏻
Thank you very much!! I just inherited my grandfather's 57 Tbird and it has this carb. Never rebuilt one before but I'm 100% sure I can get it back together and running with your help. Couldn't have done it without you!
Glad to be of help. Thanks for watching!
Great video! Very informative and your step by step directions on disassembly and reassembly made me feel confident that I could tackle my next holly rebuild, keep ‘em coming!
I try to use a see through plastic bag or containers to take apart things with springs, that way it’ll fly into the bag instead! Of course, if I don’t know if something is going to fly out in the first place, it’s hard to predict, so sometimes just using a see through plastic covering so you can see what you’re doing might save headaches of looking for flying parts! That’s my amateur tip, because I’m a complete amateur! LOL
That Coca-Cola will definitely break down any rust & impurities! At least the mid-1900’s Coca-Cola, but I’m sure the same formula still applies nowadays! LOL
I have to rebuild my 4150 manual choke Holley, but I’ve never done one before, hence I’m studying & researching before I wrench!
Finally a decent carb rebuild video. THank you
Glad it helped
@@RebeldryversGarage yeah I've never rebuilt a carburetor before. I've got a Holley 1850 on a 5.0 83 mustang. Couldn't do it without your knowledge
Буду пробовать перебирать свой 1850, спасибо за видео:)
If you use compressed air to blow out the passages, BE care full when you blow the holes on the opposite side of the brass air bleeds. Why? Because yestrday I spent hrs and finally found the 1 on the prim side blow out and ended up under the front end of my Camaro. I’ll red loctite that back in. So to be safe blow from the brass side which is the top of the carb opening or use lower pressure from the body side where the metering block mates to.😅
Great video, sir. Glad I stumbled upon this video and your channel. I’m planning to rebuild mine myself in a few weeks.
Go for it!!
tip- I like to use a hook and pick set to remove little things like o-rings and gaskets 😎
Thanks a bunch for doing this video. LOVE the detail!!!
Thanks for watching.
You stated that 4160 stood for vacuum secondary and 4150 stood for a double pumper. 4150 means the secondaries have a metering block. The 4160 means it has a secondary metering plate and no block.
Thank you for sharing... I needed help with my Holley not knowing what to do at all..I hope I can get those screws off without having to use the Holley tool..
If you are worried about those clutch screws in the secondary metering plate, just leave the plate on and hose out the holes with carb cleaner. Unless the gaskets that seals to the float bowl is torn, you can reuse it.
You are one awesome teacher! Excellent video! You absolutely rock!!
Glad is was helpful. Thanks for watching!
And if you need a closer look at what Scott is doing you can zoom in on the work being done.. while the video is going
Awesome video's. I am about to rebuild my Ford spec Holley 4180C and this helps tremendously. Question, the gaskets for the secondary metering plate in the rebuild kit are lacking holes in two places compared to the originals. Do you know if this is something that was changed for drivability or other reason? or should I punch holes in them to match up with the originals?
I liked your video friend. I have a completely identical carburetor that I put on an original '75 Ford 302. The problem is that it doesn't have a stable idle, I have to close the mixture screws idle so that it is more stable, if you started to loosen them the engine begins to fail and try to shut down. If I rev the engine to 2000 rpm There are slight hesitation but if I partially close the choke it stops failing. When I start the engine, it starts stable but instantly crashes. The engine does not have emissions issues in the intake manifold, I already checked that it does not suck false air, the secondary ones are fine closed. I don't know what to do anymore friend, do you have any ideas? Thanks greetings
Sounds like you have fuel dripping out of the boosters at idle. Check float levels, make sure the needle/seats don't have something stuck in them. And, if you're using an aftermarket fuel pump, check the fuel pressure.
According to my book Holley lists 9834 as having a jet size of 42… series 1 has as 61, series 2 and 3 have a 68 jet. Hopefully that helps. Great video!!!! I’m about to rebuild my 25+ year old list 80457
Thanks for the info!!
Any thoughts on what to look for? I’m about to rebuild my Holley 4150 from 1969. Had it professionally done a few years ago but it’s always had a problem. Car starts fine when cold, but when the car is all warmed up, my engine will not start unless pedal to the floor. Choke is wide open at this point. I’ve replaced the power valve thinking it was leaking but same result. Any thoughts what to look for as I dive in?
Runs good when cold, but hard to start when warm usually means too much fuel. If you can't stall the engine by turning the idle mixture screws in, then fuel is dripping in from somewhere else. Make sure the floats are set correctly to start. But, also look at your spark plugs. Black and sooty would confirm a rich condition. But, if they are gold/brown in color, then maybe it's a weak spark problem.
HI, so my needle and seat, there is no spring action to my needle.. If I turn it upside down, needle goes one way, turn it the other way, and the needle goes the other way. Is there supposed to have a spring action? I don't have the rebuild kit to see what the news ones do.
There is no spring action on Holley needle and seats.
@@RebeldryversGarage Great! Hey, I was watching your video, and found out I actually have a 4180, not 4160. Ford hired Holley to make a 'tamper proof' carb, and they did. For instance, my choke assembly, yours has three screws...mine has one screw, and two rivets. The four air mixture screws, they're encased in this tunnel thing, and the screw heads, are like rivet heads. There has to be a bunch of modification to this, in order to properly tune/rebuild it.
Excellent, very helpful!
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching
As soon as I saw the Impala I subscribed Lol. Got a '65 at home that I'm trying to get back into good running condition. I have a problem with the motor wanting to diesel when I shut it off. SBC 383 but it was also happening when I had a SBC305 with TBI on it, so I'm thinking it must be an ignition or fuel delivery issue. Haven't been able to figure it out. Great video!
Thanks for watching. I have a playlist on the Impala. Dieseling can come from a few different problems. Too cold of spark plugs, too much idle rpm, and crappy quality gas.
I think the most difficult thing for me is going to be putting that clip back in the choke linkage and i don't think my floats want to adjust with the screw and needle and seat? And I don't have a rebuild kit but the carburetor is gummed up and I need to take it apart and clean it as best as possible and put it back together using the old stuff until I can afford to clean it and rebuild it and it goes on a 400 M Ford that uses the kickdown..
I have a ton of these with no kit. But, if the carb hasn't been touched in years and years, don't try to open it without a kit. The gaskets will probably tear.
nice video man helpful 👍
Glad it helped
Keep spraying your carb until you get nice green circle on you car
Yes! Holley and Carter/AFB use regular tools, unlike the Quadrajet!
I've never needed special tools for the QJets.
@@RebeldryversGarage maybe the old, non-emission ones only required regular tools. The '80s electronic (junk, IMO) carbs had these small "double-d" fasteners for some internal pieces.
you cleaned the carburetor and set it on a dirty bench are you going to clean it again
Absolutely not. See part 3. It runs perfect.
When I mash the gas it won't speed up 4160 holly
Before making any changes to your carb. Be sure your timing is set correctly, and is advancing off idle. I fought for a week on a carb, only to notice my timing stayed right at initial timing as the engine tried to rev.
My advice is get rid of all of them. They are junk. Sorry to say. 😢 you spent all that time rebuilding it and start your car and it backfires well. Might as well start over again.
They only back fire when the carb isn't set up correctly, or the timing is way off. People drove millions of cars for 100 years every single day without issue.
A good carb is a thing of beauty.