Don't replace your tractors carburetor until you check this first!!
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Check this on your Zenith , Carter, or IH carb BEFORE replacing it!! You rebuilt your tractors carb but it still leaks, cant adjust it or it plain doesn't work!
I've noticed that dame issue over the years. I've had great luck with the cast iron carburetor. And almost always had leak's on the pot metal carburetor. In the past I've checked with a file and then used Indian Head to seal it up after rebuild just because of this same design flaw. Great advice and I always thought I must have done something wrong in the past. But seems it's not me it's just junk from the factory.
Great video and advice! Noticed this same problem on my 66 Case backhoe
Thanks I was having that very same problem I believe you just saved me from having to buy a new one.
Great to hear!
Fantastic advice... New gaskets etc on my Cub still leaked.. Be doing this check on my Cub carb tomorrow.
Thanks again from Coats, NC. have this exact problem as we speak.
Have a 8-N and for decades that tractor was hard to start. As a last resort I tapped on the carburetor one day with a wrench before trying to start it . Holy moly it started right off . Has a sticky float I believe now.
Thanks mate you saved me money I don't have! Cheers from Iron Rock Nova Scotia Canada.
Glad we could help
My dad has an old Volvo BM 210 (equivalent in size, weight and era to a Ford 9N) with an Austin A70 straight 4 and a genuine Zenith 24T2. My dad has had part of a finger amputated and another finger surgically pinned between two joints on his dominant hand after an accident with a firewood/log saw. Since his fine motor skills are impaired following that its quite difficult for him to do fiddly stuff like messing around with carburetors and thus he has asked me to help him fix the carburetor on the tractor.
The carb is fludding and spewing fuel directly into the air filter hose via the air inlet port on the carb. This happens regardless of the fuel pressure, as I've used a Bosch SU-style 0.1 bar (2 psi) 12V pump, a generic chinese 0.36 bar (5.2 psi) pump and gravity feed directly from the main and reserve fuel tank at half full. I've disassembled the carb, put it through an ultrasonic cleaner with a compatible detergent, stoned the sealing surfaces lightly (only had precision ground flat stones on hand in my machine shop and they can only remove high spots), ordered a service kit with float needle valve, needle valve shims and gaskets from a respected supplier and swapped those. Same problem even after all that, it did however reliably start for 10-30 seconds with the choke on until it died from flooding after doing all those changes which it didn't do before, likely because the old needle valve didn't seal for shit. Considering removing the carb again to give it a serious flattening on a thick slab of granite or glass to see if that makes a difference.
Do you have any suggestions? I'm open to all suggestions as I'm a machinist, not a mechanic and not that interested in the mechanics of car and tractor engines and want to fix this with minimal effort and further research
Sounds like you've covered the majority of the bases.. and you may be on the right track with taking it apart one last time and making sure of the flatness is both surfaces. One thing I could think to check would be to possibly try running it without the air cleaner. There could be a restriction like a critter built a house in there and needs to be evicted maybe the filter is not flowing well enough etc restrictions on the intake side can also cause the symptoms you describe. Good luck and if I think of anything else I'll pass it on
@@AtlastaFarMI've ground both the top and bottom halves on a granite tabletop with emery cloth and checked their flatness with sharpie and they're as flat as i can make them now. They were quitw warped initially, the float chamber and the air intake chamber wherw the "venturi" sleeve or whatever it is sits in had an extremely wide and deep furrow connecting them that i suspect was the culprit. Had to spend 30-45 minutes with 120 grit to get it out. The top half was also quite concave, covering the whole surface in sharpie and lightly taking a first pass grinding it i revealed that the area around every screw hole for the screws clamping the halves together had a beer bottle cap sized area that made contact with the emery cloth and that all surfaces inboard of the screw holes was concave. Took a sharpie and marked 4 dots around the intake flange and used those points to measure the total length from the intake to the mating surface on the opposite side of the part with a micrometer before starting to grind it flat and wrote the values down next to each dot on the intake and found that i had removed roughly 0.2mm when it had been ground flat so i could adjust the shim washer thickness for the needle valve. Ordered two sets of the gasket that goes between the halves that is to arrive early next week and will assemble it then. Also ordered replacement main and air jets, slow running tube and main mixture screw so hopefully the carb will work and keep working for a decade or two.
I have the 4 bolt version of this (Z12158 maybe). I was getting major leakage. Found a crack bottom half wall of float area. Opened it up and the floats were crushed and split. Then i mated the surfaces without the gasket and i have an 1/8 inch bend just before the 2 bolts on the float end. Not sure it i could warp it back with some heat, then fill the crack. Don't want to drop the $400 on a replacement, this is a min dozer/trencher (1970s maybe).
I have seen that on small engines but hadnt thought of other engines
True on all split shell carburetors
Another quick fix is Aviation Permatex to fill in low spots. It stays tacky for a very long time, and will fill in up to .010” more or less. If they still make it…🤔 makes for a mess on the next rebuild though…😜
I have a 45-50 case sc tractor. When we pulled it after 8 years of sitting in 2020 it stated up and idled and ran fine. Now it bogs and doesn't run right. Still runs but not enough power. I'll have to check if thats the problem. Thank you for the video.
You may be my salvation... 1950 gardnerdenver pullbehind aircompressor ..105 cfm... whz model with a 6b230 ci buda engine ... carb is a huge zenith..OK bow that I got that out lol I had it running but carb was a mess finally I realized float was leaking .. by the way trying to resolder float can result in desolder completely.. I knew about the way carbs can warp and in my enthusiasm some how I ended up breaking the float tower loose .. it has been a few years ago and I think possibly I may have gotten the tower jury rigged back on but I can't seem to find the ventury still need a float and the round plate with the carb number on it is unreadable.. ...because it is an aircompressor and has the unloaded. Feature ..which I'm not really up on so much I am hesitant to use a different carb .... any ideas ?
Zenith company is still around...(www.zenithfuelsystems.com/) try calling here: "For more information and a free catalog, please email Mattie Bellamy or call 276-645-8619." They may have resource info on it for you.
My son has an International 184 with the same problem 👍 Also are you familiar with governor issues? If so he changed his governor and the tractor wouldn’t start after that, backfiring out the intake, I pulled it, rotated the gear 180 and it’s doing the same thing.
Thanks
Thank you. I need to tackle a carb on a BN.
Great info. Good job
Great tip, thanks!!
Very interesting!
Great info!
Thanks, great video
Can you answer this question?
On an International BN, Marvel Schebler made two different carburetors, one for distillate or kerosene (TSX-156) and the other for gasoline (TSX-157). All replacements resemble the TSX-165 (replaced with what was on when purchased).Could this cause the tractor to sputter and stall and not run properly? And where can I purchase the proper carb (TSX-157). Thank you for this video it explains why the old crab was leaking.
Thanks Y'all
Very welcome
I've got an IH 656 that I have been fighting a leak somewhere in the carb. I'll have to pull it off yet again and check the housing, but theres a front end loader in the way that makes it not so easy to get to.
Yeesh.. yep front end loaders are absolutely awesome and great tools unfortunately the caveat is they are in the way of doing any simple servicing 😭
Have a satoh. 650g , runs on either when applied, gas goes into float but won't run by itself
Thank you good job
Welcome 😊
Thanks a bunch.
You're welcome!
Can you put silicone to fill the gap like poly urethane maybe won't be good idea.
I will try your method thanks i have a leak at the mouth of the carburetor
ZENITH GOING TO TRY YOUR METHOD
I have a Ford 9N with a rusty gas tank. Is there any way to clean it or does it just need to be replaced? Great video!
Yes there are many ways to clean it. Really it depends on how severe the cancer is... there is all sorts of great working solvents out there. We sometimes use electrolysis . Even Using a handful of nuts or ball bearings and shaking the tank (use magnet to get them back out). Once its clean, we use a quality tank liner if the tank seems thin or has pin holes in places... (we use RedKote mostly) But follow the directions religiously!! (a sloooow cheap but great method is using white vinegar and water. Use half and half, fill the tank with it or submerge it in a bath. It will have to set at least 5 to 7 days for best results.!!)
@@AtlastaFarM Thank you! I love the Ford 9N videos! Have a Merry Christmas Everyone!🎄
I have a 41 case with that same car, used on many and there wonderful. Mine is acting like a jackass
Awesome info
Thank you for the Zenith carb video . Are the early cast iron carbs so similar that they use the same rebuild kit ? Its on a Wisconson AEN . A good rebuild video would be great .
Similar, but do use different kits
Having problem where I can't get to idle right(international 263 engine-updraft carb) need to have choke pulled. Also in winter at times it kills and does ice up -Help -Help
Try this... czcams.com/video/6tDdkx5c0TI/video.html
THANK YOU......
You're welcome!
THANK YOU.
You're welcome!
If the float is properly set , the gasoline level should not reach the gasket seam .
that is only true if the tractor always stays level...better stay out of ditches and off hills
I have the newer style Zenith 68 series which has the extra screws which is nice about not deforming the main body like in this video but I have a stripped idle mixture screw in the main body, not the screw itself. Cannot seam to find much on net about this. Tap size etc. Anyone know?
yeesh.. late to reply,, but if your still in need,, Zenith is still manufactured in Tennessee... you can google the manufacturer and give them a call.. we used to call them often a few years ago.. sorry I dont have the number in front of me at the moment
Hi when I start my engine my carburettor loose some gas through the mouth? Did you have an idea and the smoke are very black
Good vid.
Good evening, my question is about the float spring placement? Is there a wrong way? Should it be pushing up twards the needle, or pushing down? I usually take a pic when doing these but this time I didn't. I recently rebuilt my zenith carb and now it seems pretty wet on the gasket. Thank you for any help. Dennis
Unfortunately I am not sure what model carb you have. Not many have a "spring" or Clip. And most that do, do not even require it in the first place.
Thank you for the advice, actually I had a distributor issue, so I just converted to electronic ignition , scrapped the points. I took your advice, took out the spring, Carb floats are doing the job! Possibly it was rebuilt before and they added the spring to it, it's working fine now. Have a great day! Dennis
THANK YOU
i have a 4000 ford 3cyl have never been abel to get it to open up without choke being on some had this thing apart 3 times ranall the orfices good im at wits end have never had this much trouble
Which carb are you working with? Is it the Holley?
@@AtlastaFarM no sir its a rotten zenith with no high speed adjustment got some kind of diaghphram on bottom had this thing apart so many times screwws are gonna wear out clend and reamed ever orfice in it time and again
zenith has a diagraphnon on bottom@@AtlastaFarM
@@charlietanner6211 you may have a zenith replacement for the Holley. Does it look like the one in this link? www.ebay.com/itm/393418516265?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=wtx8sndrr8m&sssrc=2349624&ssuid=1vFVgjZaRpq&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
If so most of those do have adjustments but for whatever reason whatever drunk designed the thing... Decided to put brass caps over the adjustments.. However there are some cheaper versions that have brass buttons like a BB instead of an adjustment. And those suck.. Those come down to issues with the diaphragm. Either it has a pinhole, or the disc/spring mechanism on the diaphragm has a problem
I have a allis CA, carb is dripping out of the mouth of the carb,, is the float the problem? Errol from Canada, thankyou
Definitely check the surfaces for flatness!! And yes, it can be a high float setting. To set, hold the half with the float upside down (float should be on top when holding it) the float should be set to almost level with the surface
Can you make a video on how to adjust governor on a zenith carb, I have one on a Wisconsin engine, in a bobcat m610, don’t really understand how it works
Yeah // Zeniths are fun (sarcasm lol) we will eventually make one.
Farmall 140 cam/governor timing.
i have a farmall h it floods constantly and when i do get it to finally run it gets frost on the out side where it bolts to the manifold no matter what the air temp out side is . ive set both screws and adjusted them while its running and no change the best i can get it to run is with the bottom screw all the way in tight if i choke it to kill it gas poors out of it or when im trying to start it and stop cranking the engine gas poors out of the carb in short i need your help its no good to me if it wont run
Needs a rebuild kit
Hey Just came across your video. I have a zenith carburetor 12098B L63 off my Wisconsin VH4D1 engine. It pours out the mouth of carb. I’m going to try and plane it down with the block first and try rebuild kit. If not telling customer to purchase a carburetor replacement. Any good decent replacement carburetors just in case. Excellent video tutorial Thank you
Best thing to do is get a zenith replacement you can go either to Steiner tractor or the carburetorstore.com or direct to zenith out of the Tennessee plant. However zenith is one of the most expensive and expect to spend $400 plus
Hi Matt hope you are well and COVID not causing to much trouble I was wondering if I could ask so questions regarding the Ford 655 many thanks Richard
Sure thing. I think you left some voicemails. Sorry I have been running 4 directions at once and am more than way behind on returning calls. (No secretary for a while now)
@@AtlastaFarM no I haven’t left any voicemails I sent u an email couple days ago just explaining the same thing about lack of lift power since came across a valve with a wire running to it which is the same wire that goes to the control lever?
Tsx713 marvel-schebler looking for this carb or a z14991 I do need one Ty Sonny Poteet
Unfortunately we no longer deal with parts :-( however first on the list would be contact Steiner tractor. If they do not have it the most direct route would be to contact zenith carburetor directly. Zenith is located in Tennessee. Unfortunately I do not have their number memorized but they do have a website. This company actually owns the patents and manufacturers replacement marvel schebler carburetors
I just got a farmall A i think close to the same carb as that one and it seems to be overflowing ,the wing nut at the bottom is that just a drain valve or ? i tried to find a tuning video just on farmall A carb,But havent found yet,ill get out an find out what name brand it is,great video more to watch :)
If it is a true wing nut and has a hole in the center (looks like the nut turns a pipe) then yes that is a drain. However If it's just a standard wing nut that looks like it just turns a screw then most likely you have a later version of that carburetor and that screw is your flow adjustment.
thanks so much for the reply,i took it off today its a phillips has made in the usa right under the name ,i didnt know but tht was the main adjustment and it was shut closed,i went ahead and opened up the carb,someone has already been inside,and has all the other screws stripped including t,he needle valve body,i went ahead an ordered a after market carb,i may send this to someone to rebuild.well someone with the proper tools an knowledge,heck the kits was as much as the aftermarket carb,
Can you rebuild my vh4d carb for bobcat 610?
Sorry for the long wait. Unfortunately no, we no longer are doing repairs for the public.
I rebuilt the carburetor on my Farmall H now I have major problems, there is a video on my channel, please comment any suggestions
My first guess would be a leak between the mating surfaces. Or a missing metering jet.
@@AtlastaFarM is the metering jet a small brass tube about 1/8" dia. and about 1" long threaded on 1 end? if so it's there , I will resurfacing
@@jerryrigd4790 that's the main jet. Metering jets are normally tiny brass screws with a small hole in them. There should be at least one in the tube where your main fuel adjustment is. Normally your adjustments have a needle on the end of the screw.. those needles fit in the brass jets. Like a mini valve in a faucet
CLEAN UP GREEN GAS PUMP IS WORKING NO GAS IN CYC RUN ON STARING FLUID HELP
Hey man I have a IH 184 that I can’t get to fire unless I cover the carbs with my hand I can’t find much about these things online any idea?
either your flow valve is not open enough, you have a restriction in the fuel feed to the carburetor, the float is sticking too low or adjusted too low, or the main jet is clogged and lastly air leaks either in the throttle/choke shafts etc.. or between the two haves of the carburetor itself.
What's the carb on a 1965 JD 1010 4 cyl gas?
Recommend going to an online John Deere dealer and looking up your model in the parts section. This is the most definitive method to find the part number. You can then search that part number in google to find a good replacement
I think my 1953 Jubilee came with a zenith carb