How to bleed your entire brake system - 1967 Ford Mustang
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- čas přidán 12. 09. 2024
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Alf's Mustang Garage is not responsible for any mechanical or technical error that you may encounter when working on your own car. You are responsible for your own quality control and your own proper repairs.
Today at Alf's Mustang Garage, we are doing a front disc brake conversion on a 1967 Ford Mustang and the final step in the process is to bleed the entire brake system. I show you the process I take in order to achieve that.
Even though I don't own a mustang many of your video's also can be applied to the mustang's cousins such as my Versailles and other falcon platforms.
Absolutely! Most of this stuff back then was very similar.
This will be helpful! Thank you and btw... nice gloves. 😁
Thank you!
Great videos - very helpful to get a refresher on how to some of these operations which are due on my 67 GT. Thanks !
Great video. Thanks for sharing...😊
Thank you!
Bleeding your brake lines of air completely is important because the air bubbles can cause you to loose brake and pedal pressure. You don't want to find out you had a bubble at 70 and you have to stop suddenly so take your time. When you're doing it, I recommend getting a brake bleeder kit just because it makes it far easier to keep the wheels and your hands clean. If you don't want to buy a kit, a plastic water bottle and a correctly sized rubber tube should work ok as well. The kits come with a little bottle, and if you're doing a maintenance bleed, every time the bottle is about 3/4 full its time to check your fluid anyway on original dual drum systems.
I would use a small line connected to the nipple to avoid contaminating the brake shoes or pads. Makes the cleaning much easier... Otherwise, good video, I feel more confident now to do it on my 1963 Falcon.
Thanks. Great vid that helped me a lot.
Awesome, good to hear.
Great video! Thanks
You're very welcome
Well shot video. What shade of blue is on that coupe?
Thank you. You know, I'm not entirely sure. It's not a factory paint code but it is gorgeous.
Hi. I have a 68 Mustang with power front stock disc brakes. My brake light came on. I replaced the master cylinder twice, each time bench bleeding it and I still have the same problem. Bleed the entire system like you say. The light is still on because the valve in the distribution block is not centered. I have use over a quart of brake fluid and fluid coming out during bleeding is clear. I am sure the system doesn’t have air in it. I have a good pedal and the engine is running. Then I bleed the front or rear to get the light to go out and stop pushing on the pedal. Bleeder is tighten and I release the brake pedal. Then on the first push of the brake pedal it goes to the floor and the light comes back on. Release brake pedal and push on it again and the brake pedal is at normal position but the light is back on. The brakes seem to work fine while driving although they seem to fade just a bit now and then. Like I said before, I’m sure I got all the air out of the system. I did it once and had two Ford mechanics bleed system and one installed the second master cylinder. Any ideas what my problem is?
In my experience the brake warning light is on because the shuttle valve inside the distribution block has shifted which grounds the switch for the light. This light can also be on if the circuit is somehow getting grounded. If you unplug the connector to the switch and the light turns off, it's because the shuttle valve has shifted. If it's unplugged and the bulb stays on, the circuit is getting a ground somewhere else. I hope that helps.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I know why the light comes on. I unplug the connector from the distribution block and light stays off. I have bled the entire system to remove all air. My question is after bleeding the entire system and then right after centering the shuttle valve I release the brake pedal and when I push on it the brake pedal goes to the floor and the light comes back on. When I release the brake pedal and push it again, I have a good pedal. Any ideas what would cause this.
www.npdlink.com/product/tool-brake-pressure-differential-switch-steel/178818/200580 I would purchase this tool to keep the shuttle valve centered while you are bleeding. Sounds like there is something causing that shuttle valve to slide over every time. Either that or the distribution block needs to be replaced. I would try centering the valve, installing that tool, and then bleeding the entire system again. If it still slides over and turns on the light after all that, I would be looking for a new distribution block.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks for your quick response and comment. I was thinking the distribution block too. 😩 It’s a royal pain in the £^¥ replacing it. I found it easier to removed the power brake booster to gain access. Several places I’ve looked at online have the distribution block on back order. If I have to replace the distribution block I may replace the original style proportioning valve with an adjustable one while I’ve got it all apart. Do you have any recommendations on where to buy quality parts. I bought the distribution block and the proportioning valve combination from West Coast Classic Cougars in 2014. I thought I’d get more than 8 years out of it. But then again it wasn’t new but a rebuild
Do you know what inside the distribution block could cause this problem.
Thanks again. Mike
I do most my shopping at National Parts Depot. I've never encountered this problem before so I wouldn't really know exactly what is causing the issue I'm afraid. I feel your pain because they are difficult to access. Good luck!
Excellent. I will be doing this today. I am getting ready to start up my Mustang for the first time in about 13 years, with a rebuilt engine (302 roller block). I was just going to make sure the first start went smoothly but then started reading about seating the oil rings and that you gotta take it out and put a load on it. So now gotta make sure my brakes are good. Any tips?
If the car has been sitting for that long, we typically have to do the master cylinder, wheel cylinders, and all the soft rubber hoses at the bare minimum. Usually we are doing shoes and or pads plus hardware as well. After sitting that long, if nothing is leaking it Usually will After putting pressure through the system again.
@@AlfsMustangGarage does it matter that its a Southern California car? I took off the rotors last night and nothing was seized. Everything from calipers to rotors came off with the usual elbow grease. My budget mind says move on. My common sense says listen to Alf.
Oh ya I usually don't see things seized either. Calipers are usually good. It's the wheel cylinders for the drums if you still have drum brakes in the rear. The master cylinders usually leak too.
Does the car have to be leveled or can I bleed the rear air lines first?
Hello, I have the same year car and same break setup. The question I have is how do I get the dashboard light to go out after bleeding the breaks. Thank you for the informative video
Typically what that means is the shuttle valve inside the distribution block has shifted making a ground connection for that bulb. Either that or that circuit is getting grounded somehow. Typically that will happen when there is a large leak and the shuttle valve will slide over blocking that passage and also grounding the pressure switch at the same time. I hope that makes sense.
@@AlfsMustangGarage unfortunately, this is my first classic car and I have no idea where the distribution block is. I ran the rear master cylinder dry and the bleeding process worked by feel of the break pedal. Where is the distribution block?
@@AlfsMustangGarage I watched your other video. I see what you are saying. Thanks
That is located right under the master cylinder bolted to the fender apron. It will essentially split all the lines to front and rear wheels. It also has the brake pressure switch for that bulb. The way it works is power is supplied to that switch at all times and when there is a large leak, an internal shuttle valves slides in the direction of large fluid flow blocking the leak. This also pushes up on the switch which provides a ground and turns on the light bulb to indicate to the driver there is low brake fluid pressure.
@@AlfsMustangGarage can I reset the shuttle valve or does it need replaced or repaired.
Alf what is the best way to raise the rear end of my 1968 Mustang. I'm wanting 3 - 4 inches
Umm raise? Just the rear? That’s a lot to lift
I lowered my mustang 1 inch
So I just had my master cylinder replaced but the shop put on a bad one because it leaks. I bought a new one to replace myself and was about to start bench bleeding it and installing it when I saw this video. Do I need to bleed the entire system after installing this new master cylinder?
Yes. That is the beginning of all the brake system so the entire system needs to be bled.
@@AlfsMustangGarage I started to bleed the passenger rear wheel and no fluid came out. I realized the pushrod wasn’t on the break pedal properly and fixed it. I broke it loose and some fluid came out but only just that first time. All other attempts no fluid came out. I’m not sure what I did wrong
How long have you been trying?
@@AlfsMustangGarage we pumped and cracked it about 20 times before I adjusted the pedal and then another 7 when it only worked one time. I’d say around 25 minutes. Thank you so much for your help
Is the pedal hard or soft?
Quick question. What do you on the proportion valve while bleeding.
Nothing unless it has a brake pressure differential switch. If it does, you need the special tool to keep the shuttle valve in place while bleeding.
@@AlfsMustangGarage Mine has a turn knob. Does it matter what position it is in?
Nope
@@AlfsMustangGarage Thanks for your reply and videos.
You're very welcome
Hey thanks! So when you are adding fluid to the master do you keep the lid off? Or do you add fluid then re seal the master? Thanks, you have been really helpful, much appreciated!
I put the lid back on but don't clamp it. When you're pumping the pedal, the brake fluid will geyser up and make a mess if the lid is off.
Sorry to bug on a sunday.. I just have one more question. 😬 I'm not getting any fluid coming out of the front disc? Any thoughts? Thanks ...again...lol
No worries. Most of us are working on our cars on the weekends. So remind me what all you replaced on this?
@@AlfsMustangGarage I did a disc brake conversion. Drums in the rear, new master cylinder, adjustable proportioning valve. I did the rears and they bled fine but the front disc's have no fluid coming out. I checked for leaks pumped it at least 100 times. They are calipers from o'rileys for a 75 maverick or Grenada. Bought them last year so I'm not sure but I don't think that should matter?
I assume you replaced the rubber hoses that go to the calipers?
What size flare wrench are the bleeder valves?
Those valves come in various sizes.
Did you bench bleed the master cylinder before you bled the brakes,or is there a way to bleed it after it’s installed in car?
I bleed the master cylinder separately before I install it on the car and then I bleed the rest of the system.
@@AlfsMustangGarage ok is it possible to bleed a new master when it’s already installed?
Yes. Bench bleeding is simply simulating being installed and working the pedal. So if you install it, you have to install the bleeder valve kit to the ports and loop the hoses back to the reservoir. If your doing it this way it's best to have a helper so one person can watch for bubbles and leaks and the other person to work the pedal. Also when working the pedal, it's important to not press the pedal all the way. You'll want to pump it slightly at first and then slowly work the pedal further and further. Did you watch my bench bleed video? It's essentially the same thing except you installed it on the car instead of a vice.