Waltham Pocket Watch - Lever Set Install and Light Case Restoration.
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- čas přidán 22. 07. 2022
- I purchased a Waltham pocket watch a few months ago and it turned out to be a real monster. So much so that I affectionately call it Frankenstein because of all the mismatched parts. One of the main problems was it is a Lever Set movement but the case was for a Pendent Set watch. In this video I sourced the lever setting parts and install them and then lightly restore a proper Case for the watch, making it respectable again.
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I really enjoyed this video! I have a Waltham 16s model 1908 Vanguard. It had a broken main spring and I replaced that, in reassembling the keyless works the yoke spring broke. Awwwww! I was able to look the part up in the E&J Swigart Co. Catalogue part #4510, they call it a shipper spring. Your process was so easy to follow that when the new spring arrives I should be able to install it without another incident. Thank you Mark.
Hi Jeff, thanks for watching and for the kind comments! I hope all goes well with your vintage Waltham. Enjoy the process! Thanks again, best!
Nice watch, new fix.
Nice job! I would suggest not to clean a dial with water while installed as you could introduce water to the cannon pinion and center wheel shaft, just a thought.
Thanks Daniel, I appreciate the advice. I'm constantly learning and changing my practices.
Nice job Mark.
Thanks so much! Much appreciated.
Great video buddy. I watch Marshall also and have taken all the classes Mark Lovick has. Thanks for the video. Keep them coming.
Thanks for watching! I'm putting the finishing touches on another now and "should" have it out this weekend.
Congrats on 500 Mark! I was excited to see a new video from you on my feed. Couple things for you: first off, do you prefer wearing the gloves vs finger cots? My hands seem to sweat like crazy in those latex/nitrile gloves. Then, as far as plastic polish suggestions: I’m sure I don’t have to suggest it since everyone knows it already, but Brasso is actually a pretty darn good plastic polish, so it’d be good to include. Lastly, I’m sorry to be snarky, but I’ve gotta ask - how much did those Bergeon workbench wipes cost? 😂 I didn’t even know they made these, but something tells me they’re 5x the price of a regular cleaning wipe 😄🇨🇭
Thanks for watching! I work at a hospital and I wear gloves almost constantly. I guess I got used to wearing them so it doesn't bother me. Plus I usually end up taking some home everyday so they are practically free. I've tried finger cots before but I just didn't see any benefit over the gloves. As far as the Bergeon wipes go, I think they must be discontinuing them because I got them for half price. I saw another CZcamsr using them and I thought it looked cool so I thought I'd try them! hehe TBH, when I run out I'll just fill the container with $3 wipes from CVS. LOL
@@watchasilearn Haha, Bergeon on a budget, I love it! I even searched around and couldn’t find them, so you got a rare deal 😄. Oh, the gloves make sense given hospital work then. Honestly, I think the only reason people say to use cots instead is just for comfort (since full coverage isn’t strictly needed). Anyway, stoked for your next video, and thanks for the reply!
On the subject of polishes for crystals I can tell you that meguiars ultimate polish for cars works amazing on crystals for removing scratches. I had an old Omega Seamaster with a scratched up crystal and decided to try it out and it worked amazing on bringing back the crystal to almost new finish. I changed it still as it had a chip in it but wanted to try it out. Works better than Poly Watch in my opinion.
Thanks for the tip!
Hi Mark great video, no one would guess you have only been doing this for a relative short time, i especially like your calm measured approach to the work, keep it up. I tend when rebuilding a watch and come to the cannon pinion , minute wheel to fit the cannon pinion 1st then the minute wheel as sometimes the c. p. will snap into place and should the minute wheel be already in it is possible to damage teeth on the m.w. its just something i do. anyway best wishes from the U.K.
Hi Michael, thanks for watching and the kind words. While I was editing the video I also noticed how the C.P. snapped down like that and I have no idea why I put the minute wheel on first. Just a rookie mistake I guess. Thanks for the tip, I will definitely be doing it differently from now on!!
Can I ask where you got you dial case? I can’t seem to find any. Great video Mark. Congrats on hitting 500.
Hi Graham, thanks for watching. I got the dial case off of ebay for $10.00 a piece. The description is "Swiss made watch dial storage container". Hope that helps.
@@watchasilearn Excellent. I found them. I was starting to think that Cousins was my only option. Keep up the great work. Love your videos. It's really nice to watch someone else going through this learning curve with me. I'm doing a similar project with a grade 291 Elgin Pocket watch but need parts that I can't find so i'm stauck somewhat.
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Nice video. Good job reviving such a beautiful piece of wrokmanship. But... I think it is a little unfair to call it a "frankenstein" since none of the original bridges were replaced, only some parts that could wear out and/or break in any watch, and were possibly replaced in many of american watches over the last sentury. For me a frankenstein movement is the one where the numbers on the back of the bridge plates do not match the number on the movement itself.
That's a very good point! I don't have a problem with parts being replaced but on this movement it was pretty obvious that some of the parts did not even belong to this model of movement. I think they just used what they had in order to sell it as complete, which it wasn't. Thanks so much for watching and for the great comment.
Good job Mark! I'm not sure why you're wearing gloves versus finger cots though? My hands would be sweating too much :-). Also, was there a reason why you didn't take the crystal out to clean it or use the L&R you restored to clean the new parts for the watch versus using lighter fluid? I'm still in the middle of restoring my L&R and just painted the base using your past video as a guide. One thing different I did find is that mine is a little older and L&R was using smaller Hamilton Beach motors at that time (read the little metal plate on the motor). The motor casing actually came chromed versus painted with my model so I've elected to polish it up the best I can and call it good 🙂. The cloth wires (which I'm also in the middles of replacing) are actually 16 gauge versus 14 gauge for your machine. No big deal, but I thought you might find it interesting. I've also elected to leave my motor stand with the rust (I guess one might call it patina) versus having it nickel plated again as the wife thinks I've spent enough money on it already 🙂. After taking the stand off the base, I went over it with steel wool and then painted it with a clear acrylic. The motor clamp I found out after taking off the grime and paint is actually aluminum, so I have elected to not paint the clamp as I prefer the polished aluminum. One last question, did you have to clean the copper rotor where the brushes connect in your motor? I saw one video where this was done with very fine sandpaper and did the same with mine for a better connection (hopefully). Cheers
Hi Cliff, thanks for watching. I covered the gloves question in a comment below. I didn't take the crystal out because I'd never dealt with a crystal that thick before and I didn't want to have issues getting it back in so I just played it safe. The more I learn the more confident I will become, I hope. As far as cleaning the parts goes, I have showed cleaning parts in the L&R in the previous video so I wanted to show an alternate way of cleaning just a few parts in this video.
Good Luck with your restoration, I think your decision to just clean the motor stand with steel wool is perfectly valid, I'm not sure if I would get mine re-plated if I had it to do over again.
Great video and explanation of workings. Can you tell me how to know which parts you need and sizing of them especially if you need to order a balance staff... Any advice please. Thanks 👍
Hey Alan, thanks for watching. It helps if you know the caliber number but sometimes you just have to measure the part, especially the balance staff, and order by size. Usually the website you order from with tell you what measurements you need to get off of your original part to insure a proper fit. Hope that made sense!
So could this movemnt be converted to a wristwatch?
Ditch the plastic because it is supposed to have glass . Using plastic is a sign of a beginner watchmaker. . I have got so many watches with plastic when I bought them it would make You sick. Get a caliper gauge and measure the watch bezel .