Basic Prop & Costume Weathering with Acrylic Paint Washes
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- čas přidán 28. 01. 2018
- A basic black, brown, or dark wash of acrylic paints can add a quick and easy weathering pass to your prop and costume projects that'll make it look more realistic and world worn. In this video, Bill shows some simple techniques to take your prop finishes to the next level.
Links
M5 Phalanx Build
punishedprops.com/2012/05/27/m...
Volpin's Painting eBook
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Tools & Materials:
Chip Brushes - Amazon
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Gloss Spray Varnish - Amazon
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#PunishedProps - Jak na to + styl
My favorite weathering detail is orange cheeto fingerprints. Works on any prop; sci-fi, fantasy, whatever.
help me
I learned a lot more from this video than I actually intended to. Especially that when weathering, being neat isn't necessary at all. Can't wait to try this
Fantastic!
this channel deserves more subscribers this is one of the best channels on CZcams ever
Todays tip, If you add one drop or so of dishwashing detergent to your wash, it break the surface tention and makes it easier to get the wash into small places. Just a tiny bit unless you want a foamy wash.
Ooh that's a great idea!
Yeah, something I picked up making washes for wargaming miniatures, the details are so small then it wont work so well if you do not use this method, when making your own washes.
When you’re spraying clear coat make sure sure sure you do super thin coats and give it time to flash between coats. Clears have solvents and propellants that eat the paint up when applied too thickly.
That's very true, and a good tip! Always read the can to check drying times and recommended wait times for paints and clear coats
Ahhh acrylic weathering... my fav. Messy messy messy. Love some wilthy looking props!
Great video Bill, a true tutorial on good basic weathering techniques. You are the Mr Miyagi of the prop world, " Wash on, Wipe off!"
HA! That's pretty fantastic. I might have to turn that into a shirt.
Great video! Weathering is a whole world of possibilities and I hope to see more about that around here!
Great video. Working on ray gun with a section that will be yellow and then plan to weather it with red to give it fiery look.
Great, brief tutorial. Going back over the basics is the best way to stay on top of your game.
I have to admit that I'm a bit lazy and often rely on Vallejo's model wash products. Having the same solution that behaves the same way every time can make things a lot easier.
Also, I love using oil paints for weathering, as they give you more time and nothing else gives you that greasy, oily urban grime look like real water mixable oil paint. It really puts the finishing touch on props from really dirty worlds like Dredd and District 9.
I need to try some of those. Speaking of oil paints... I *may* have a video on that coming out *really* soon. =)
...and I'll probably love it as they just keep getting better. Somehow.
Never weathered anything before, and this is a big help :) The clear coat bit is super important because I custom painted my prop. Didn't even think about the paint blending until I saw this. Hope it turns out good
hey man. just finished my first large prop (thorn from destiny) and holy shit your videos helped my get through the painting process. thank you so much my partner is going to love this
You are so helpful! I've got a lot to learn!
Good tutorial! I always learn something new from your channel.
Thanks!
Love this channel . Thanks for the great tips
You're welcome!
This was extremely helpful. I love the part about just adding some random colours elsewhere to indicate rust or random alien goo.
It's very helpful because I'm having a hard time weathering props.
Happy to help out.
Nice! Also, the vulpin props book is awesome!
It really is!
Awesome video as always, Bill. :D Definitely recommend Harrison's book... I picked it up at the same time as Foamsmith 1 and 2, and the techniques in it are amazing. Especially that trick with Elmer's glue to create a cracked finish... Mind blowing! I remember seeing him use that and some other awesome techniques on his stream when he was painting Bioshock splicer masks. Blood spatters are an artform unto themselves! ;D
Hurray! =D
great video
6the clear coting tip in the last video was so useful appreciate it
Really good video, I ordered the book, thank you
Thanks so much for your support!
I want these props omg
Weathering is a gateway drug ... that's what got me addicted ;)
Yes! It's SO MUCH FUN.
Hey Bill! Got a 3D printer recently and wouldn’t you know it… I knew exactly who to go to for painting techniques.
Hi excellent video on how to weathering props, very informative!!! but I have a question, would you do the same process if your part was silicone and would you spray a layer of varnish before weathering a bendable part?
That's a great question! Painting silicone is a bit of a unique process that we don't have much experience in - it requires specific paints that are also silicone and so flexible as well.
Super helpful
Bill I love your videos and your books! I have a question, I'm sealing my armor with black PlastiDip. My armor itself will mainly be black. Will the black from the PlastiDip be ok for the color or should I go ahead and prime and paint?
You can use the black of the PlastiDip as your main color. Britt did that with gold PlastiDip on her She-Ra costume. punishedprops.com/2015/04/04/she-ra-costume/
Please do a "need to know" on different types of resins!
Should it be Clear Lacquered to ‘seal’ the
final weathering after its all completely dry?
I painted a resin part with Krylon Colormaxx Paint & Primer in Satin Black. What would you recommend for the clear coat?
Awesome video I learned a lot thank you ! I bought a BB-8 from spinmaster but I found it too « clean » so I want to add some weathering on it but it has a factory glossy finish and I wonder if the acrylic wash will stick on it.. Do you have some tips For me? Should I try anyway or it will need acetone to remove the clear coat? Thank you !
We're so happy to help! I'd do a test to see if the wash takes to the gloss finish. If it's not adhering as much as you'd like, you can try buffing the surface with a scotch bright pad to rough it up just a little bit and try again. I don't think you'd need to completely remove the finish.
@@punishedprops Thanks a lot for your answer ! +1 like and sub
Great vid
Thanks!
I just made a spaceship out of trash and this video really helped me :)
That's way cool!
So my walmart has the ravenger Baby Groot figures on sale at $5. So i grabbed it to do exactly this. The paint job is basic and needs punched up to look like its pulled straight from the film. Great video! It'll totally help.
That is spectacular.
Have you heard about gundam markers ? designed for panel lining
I have! I need to pick some up.
Could you possibly make the Shadow Stalker from WARFRAME?
Notes: His energy is a reddish-orange, his colors are not completely black but rather have grey accents along with black, and his model in-game is the Excalibur with a unique helmet not available in-game.
If you had to choose, acrylics or your water mixable oil based paints?
I really like the oil paints, but I'm usually painting mechanical looking things. Each type of paint has it's own place.
Will you ever do a league of legends related tutorial? Im thinking of trying to make a costume from a character and something related to lol from you guys would be awesome!
Something I learned in a class on weathering model trains was to use chalk, from a dark grey up to a light tan, in layers, and then fix the chalk dust on the surface by misting with water and then letting it dry before doing the next (darker color) layer. Would that be applicable here, as well?
I bet that would work great on a prop like this.
Can anyone tell me where i can get\find a destiny Vanquisher VIII life sized stencil to use
How do you know which colour to use when weathering ?
Thanks for the vid. For some reason it always looks hard to make it look real.
What color wash would you recommend for something in an icy environment? I'm fabricating a Hoth-inspired Star Wars datapad phone cover.
Hmmm.... Snow creates a lot of mud, so a wet muddy brown would probably work well, along with perhaps some little ice crystals on raised edges.
I like
Great tips! I just use cheap acrylic craft paint, lightly over the prop and its crevasses, and then wipe most if not all of it away, like you said. What about powders? I've seen you guys use them before. Are they any good?
They sure are. I'll have to do a video on them some time.
Can one make their own out of pastels?
I have no idea.
Yeah, a video on that would be awesome.
I'll experiment and let you know what I find.
I am currently working on making armor (i'm cosplaying as Thanos), and i was wondering if that Gloss varnish you have would be good for it? I ask because torso armor or etc tend to bend, so would that affect the gloss layer and cause it to wrinkle or chip off? I am done making my armor and want to weather it, but i am not sure to add a gloss and weather it, or just straight up weather it without a gloss
I do recommend sealing your paint job before weathering so you don't risk damaging the paint layer. As for your final sealant, a flexible gloss coat is pretty hard to achieve. Here's a video that might help you out! czcams.com/video/OXUnVaSAY6c/video.html
Hello! I'm hoping if you can answer my question.
Is MrHobby TopCoat a good alternative to gloss varnish?
I'm not sure! I've never tried it before
How would outweighed a sword or dagger that doesn't have groves like the aortic dagger
uhm.... i am finishing my prop but i want to paint it (mad out of EVA Foam) can i use every paint for the basepaint?
There are many options for finishing EVA foam props. If you just want to start painting, most acrylic paints will work just fine.
I have a weird problem when painting foam with acrylics. The "hard" xps insulation foam, not the soft eva foam. the paint tends to get tacky, even after I seal it. Any idea why this is? I can't figure it out
There are a number of factors that could cause it. The sealant might not get along with that particular brand of paint, or it could be a temperature or humidity issue.
Could I use Rust-Oleum clear coat?
Yeah that should work!
so I totally am behind the idea of the varnish as a protective 'stay-put' barrier. That solves so many problems. But how long does it take to dry? There's no information on this. =(
Varnish doesn't take super long to dry and the drying time will vary depending on the brand. You can usually find that information on the varnish can.
For the rust best method is salt masking, maibe for another video ? :)
Really ? I gonna need to activate the bell to not miss single video. By the way there is my weathered version of a car here : www.thingiverse.com/make:439960
That's a super fun technique. I did that on my Fallout wrench. czcams.com/video/V-4oX9W0Hfc/video.html
Thanks !
I noticed the acrylics beading up a bit on the very first application. Is this from the clear-coat or an incompatibility of the paints somehow?
That's the water in the paint beading up on the surface. I've been told that a tiny bit of dish soap in the paint/water mix will eliminate that.
Punished Props copy that! Thanks, you ROCK!!!
I put airbrush medium in my washes sometimes. I’m working with gaming miniatures, though, and I really bought it to keep my metallic pigments from falling out of solution when I wanted to paint with a damp brush, so ymmv
Precoat your prop with clear matte-finish spray. The weathering paints will stick much better.
Thanks!
This was more informative and concise than an Adam Savage video
Can you make the god of war 4 kratos ax?
They need to feature you and Britt in a new "Night At The Pop Culture Museum" movie, where weathering props really brings them to life
That would be EPIC!
Hello
is there a real reason to not clear coat something before weathering?
yKekS to save time
I typically don't because I want the wash to darken the base coat a bit. It's a quick and dirty way of making something look kind of dirty and used by using a really wet wash, much wetter than shown in the video and letting it either dry completely or almost completely before wiping it off. If there are raised areas, you can hit them with a dry wash and the part that you're working on now has 3 tones. Sometimes I'll dry brush over an areas that I've just washed but I know is not completely dried yet so I can get a darker dry brush effect which I'll then hit with another round of dry brushing after it's completely dry for 4 tones of the same base color.
He did?
Ben Posner
Yes he did, has nothing to do with my question tho~
Riceball01
definitely an interesting approach :3
"my cat's trying to bury his food in the floor" LMAO
He is very food motivated.
"Oop, the catfood's going off..."
...GenerikB, is that you?!
Wanna do this to my Masterchief statue
Oooh that would look awesome!
@@punishedprops ikr! Can’t wait.
People have a favorite Mass Effect game?
'Baby puke yellow'
It's a very specific color... and smell.
As a gunsmith that spends most of his time making sure a gun is perfectly clean it's really painful to see you make a gun dirty to try to make it more "realistic"
Now if you want I can give you some tips on damage you see on a real gun that would make it look more real, like damanged screw heads from where somewhere used the wrong sized driver to try to remove it, scratches where the driver slipped out and dug into the metal/wood or from where moving parts meet, if it's a long gun some wear near the top of the barrel from being leaned against the wall or damage to the buttplate from being set on the ground to hard. For a pistol gun, common wear is on the outside corners where a holster would rub constantly, on the bottom of the pistol grip from having it bump into stuff. Anything mid length that would ride on a single point sling will have damage around the sling attachment point and normally heavy hear along the back of the grip from having a hand rested on it all day. Just a few that come to mind right now.
You have to remember that someone serving in time of war isn't going to be spending very much time trying to keep their weapon pristine. After all, it's no their own personal, privately purchased weapon so they're not going to care too much about it. The insides will be as clean as possible to ensure proper functioning but I'd argue that most soldiers, esp. the infantry types, are not going to care too much about the outside.
Anyway, I've found that a good way to simulate wear is to first apply a base coat of silver to the prop, then the actual color(s) that you want. Once the base color is dry I take some 0000 steel wool and lightly start sanding away at the areas where I want to show wear. You just sand as much or as little as you want depending on just how much wear you want to show.
Yeah from the way propmakers/cosplayers weather them you'd think laser guns work better when they are drity or something
HA! I love these tips. =D
on the same note, service weapons in the military (which is what these props often try to emulate) are extremely mistreated. Yes they're always cleaned to perfection because a dirty firearm is a firearm that jams. But no amount of cleaning with oil and rags will get rid of that dirty weathered look that develops over many years of intense use.
Covering the entire prop in grime looks a bit silly from the perspective of someone who actually uses military owned weapons, but making all those joins looked weathered, and as MrTarfu said, scraping off corners, or adding large scratches from jamming butts against the ground etc, is actually a VERY realistic representation of what service weapons look like.
Oh oh. Stupid idea. Making an elcor soldier costume.
Great tutorial, but why would you spend so much time explaining how different it looks when it dries if you don’t show it? Seems like a really lost opportunity…
Dude, you know people that have guns keep them as nice and clean as possible??? that warranties that the gun won't malfunction in a life or death situation, so by weathering you're actually making your prop less believable
Alejandro Vivas Yes, that is true in the real world but this is a weapon from a fictional setting. Maybe the tech has evolved to the point where that is no longer, or never was, a concern.
I do remember the last time I was out on a fictional wasteland. I was being chased by the evil lord of the land. But luckily for me I had the time to hunker down in an old abandoned building and block the door with an old cast iron tub. While watching my back for carnivorous living dead entities of all types, I pulled out my trusty gun cleaning kit and went to town on my gun, you know, the one that never runs out of ammo. Luckily for me the kit was packed readily by throwing out the much nutritious and life sustaining cans of beans I once carried. But at least my gun didn't look weathered as I bolted through the door guns blazing to my death. But, don't cry over death as I still had two lives remaining.
I'd say that depends. For most civilian gun owners that's very true since they generally only take out to the range. However, for someone who would carry the gun nearly every day and/or for long periods of time (like military and police) it's going to get worn and weathered over time. This is especially true for military weapons during times of war, or even just active deployments, soldiers don't care too much about the outside of their weapons, all they really clean are the insides in order to make sure that their weapon functions reliably. The outside is going to get dirty and the finished is going to get chipped, scratched, or simply rubbed off.
Riceball01 id think an army would have very strict regulations about keeping all fire arms clean. Most soldiers arent in 24 /7 fire fights. They have plenty of time to clean and maintain their weapons.
he's just trying to make it look more mass produced, it wouldn't look very natural if the gun was a pure bright white, it would look too flashy.
Pretty sloppy wash....😑😪 if that's your thing then good for you
Fortunately washes don't have to be neat! The point of them is to be messy - your main goal with a weathering wash like this is to get coverage and make sure paint gets into all the nooks and crannies - then you wipe all the excess away! You can do as much or as little as you like depending on your preference :)