Prop Weathering Tutorial - Part 3: Chipped Paint Weathering
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- čas přidán 8. 07. 2024
- Weathering armor and other hard props is my favorite part of the build. In this third part of the tutorial, I compare three different methods of producing a chipped paint look, on both metallic and white surfaces (like Mandalorian and Clone armor). I mask using yellow mustard, toothpaste, and latex masking fluid, and then compare and contrast the advantages and disadvantages of all three (and learn a thing or two along the way).
I build armored costumes and props for Star Wars costumes as a member of the 501st Legion and Rebel Legion. In this build I paint a scrap with two surfaces in order to test on those types of paints, but this process will work with any armor or other hard props.
Weathering Part 1 Video: • Prop Weathering Tutori...
Weathering Part 2 Video: • Prop Weathering Tutori...
Weathering Part 4 Video: • Prop Weathering Tutori...
Weathering Part 5 Video: • Prop Weathering 5: Alc...
Instagram: / oddviking
Helmets featured were finished and painted by me: Endor Trooper 3D printed kit by StarBreather, Clone Trooper helmet resin cast kit by EVO3, and Bo Katan 3D printed kit by Galactic Armory
501st Legion Clone Trooper Detachment Forums: 501stclonetroopers.com/forum/ - Jak na to + styl
That's probably the best Bo Katan paint job I've seen. You matched the stencils, chips, scratches, and weathering perfectly.
Thanks! My IG (same name) has post showing more of the process
For Liquid Latex, get yourself some silicone tipped sculpting tools. That way you can wipe off the end and reuse it as much as you'd like!
Thanks for the tip, that sounds great!
@@OddViking a good tip about tips.
I actually dig the yellowing effect if you're trying to get that aged plastic look. Like the remnant trooper armor we see in season 1 of The Mandalorian.
I used mustard for my boba fett helmet and it works very well, very natural feel to it
I know it’s an old video but still useful today! Thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome in depth look at paint chipping!
Great experiment! Your test today helped all of us out for our projects in the future
awesome to hear!
Great vid
Thanks I'm using toothpaste weathering on a mando helmet I'm working on... Wasn't white tho... Hopefully it doesn't stain!😅
Great in depth advice 🙏👍
Hi I learn loads from watching your videos as a beginner Prop Maker these Tutorials help alot
Thanks! That is great to hear.
Awesome work! Your weathering is quite good :). Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much!
Love your video. Help a lot
Awesome, thank you!
legend!
How have I not already subscribed??!! Great stuff 👊
You really should have way more subscribers really, quality is great and super dumbed down and simple tips and tricks and the funny thing is that I don't even do actual to scale armor, but the technique you covered in this video is going to help me a lot with my action figure customs so thank you for this great vid! You truly should have way more subs!
Thanks so much!
@@OddViking no worries, looking forward to more content 😀
Alclad Aqua Gloss is the clear you’re looking for clearing over metal paints and mostly keeping the shine if you can’t use a 2K clear. Coregeek has some pretty good test of various clears if you want to see the difference.
Yep, I have that now and I love that I can finally coat metallics. I didn’t have an airbrush yet when I made Bo Katan.
Such a helpful vid! With metallics, are you able to paint just on the areas you want it to show through (eg just edges or places you want a chip) to avoid painting the whole thing silver, and save paint? Or would that create an uneven lumpy surface?
Yeah, the only way is to make it all metallic. But it is also sprayed on in such a way that it would hit it all anyway. If you masked off spots, you would still be silver-coating your masking material, so there would be no real savings. I find doing it all silver allows you to pick the chipped areas after it's done, so you can highlight the most reflective spots, and avoid any spots with small blemishes showing in the chips.
Love these videos !! Thank you for making them. I have a question... In the case of the Bo Katan where you used more than 2 colors, do you add the 2nd layer of masking over the 1st layer of masking before the next color of paint? Or do you remove the masking like you did in the video and then add more masking before the next color?
I remove it each layer, so I can see the shape. Then I add masking fluid again, usually larger than the masked shape below.
For toothpaste I use a simple kitchen sponge or rag instead of a butter knife, something non abrasive. I would imagine a butter knife would add additional scratches that may not be wanted.
I tried that at first, but the paint was not breaking down to the toothpaste easily. So I switched to the butter knife, and I haven't had any scratch issues.
I just discovered your channel yesterday and have already learned so much. (Loved your first video on weathering and things to take into condmsideration.) On this video however, I was a little bummed to see that you didn't do a section of Vaseline/Petroleum jelly. That is the route I was thinking, and since I am doing Beskar armor, am curious as to the dulling effect of it. (Hopefully very little, to none at all.) I do have a big chunk of white in my armor so the mustard will not do. Have you or any of your subscribers heard of any pros or cons to using Vaseline as a masking agent? I look forward to future videos.
The reason I have not done it is the clean up. To remove it after each layer would take cleaning with soap or something else to remove the vaseline. If it weren't fully removed, any grease or oil (or petroleum jelly) would absolutely cause paint issues. Toothpaste and mustard are both water soluble, so that risk isn't there.
On better metallics (like Alclad chrome or Alumaluster type airbrush metallics), I now coat those with 2K clear, and so there are no issues affecting that base metal layer. So I use exclusively latex masking fluid on those because there is no "clean up" process, just peel and rub it away, and move to the next coat.
Great video! What paint did you use for the metal? I tried Rustoleum Bright Coat Metallic Finish Silver and paint I applied afterwards wouldn't stick to it! I was pretty upset when my masking tape was peeling my grey paint off the silver!
this was that same Rustoleum, and I have seen exactly what you are describing. I am not certain why it does that sometimes, but many gloss paints have issues like that and metallics can be even more prone to issues.
I think this video was the last time I used it like this, most of my current process uses airbrush metallics like Alclad and Alumaluster, coated with 2K gloss to protect it (2K is a two part mix that is what is used on cars for that clear coat), and paint adheres well in that process.
Awesome video! Do you use salt and hairspray technique? They seem like the best way to go about this but I have yet to try them...
I have used salt, but just with a mist of water, and then sprinkle salt on top. The water dries and the salt stays stuck until the paint goes on, and then is easy to brush off leaving tiny irregular pinhole shapes. What is the hairspray part?
You do the first paint, then spray it with hairspray and cover that with the second color. Once that's done you drop water which reacts with the hairspray and you can use toothpick or brushes to scrape of the top color. From what I've seen it's the technique where you have the most control over the shape of the scratch.
Like this:
czcams.com/video/yKrrkvsdzjs/video.htmlsi=Q9-E4WL14fSDhv-K
Ah, I see! That is a nice way to get fine chipping details. Thanks! @@realgagy9135
Do you have a tutorial for your normal clone helmets? Mainly the color choices?
I don’t. the colors are something people discuss a lot on the 501st Legion clone detachment forums.
I'm wondering how you made the Rebel Endor Helmet? I've always wanted one :) I have stl files for the doughnut, just not sure where to get the WWI/WWII pilot hat?
they are on EBay, and while some are pricy you can find them sometimes for $80 or so. most common are medium ones, and large was tight on me. then you have to add the ribbed top and leather corner flaps
Hi! I found different kinds of this masking fluid. Can you please tell me which one do you use in this video? Thx, Harald
I used Windsor Newton masking fluid, but now I prefer "Humbrol Maskol" Masking fluid. It is purple, so easier to see where you have done it (the other types dry clear).
@@OddViking Thanks a lot! I love your videos, they are very helpful and inspiring... 🙏🏻💪🏻👍🏻😉
does this work on eva foam? specifically the toothpaste or liquid latex?
it should work the same on any painted surface.
how many layers of paint can you do for one muster application? and can you do multiple applications of mustard?
You do a layer for each layer of paint, and then remove it. Then do another mask for the next layer, usually a little larger, so the lower paint color shows at the edges.
@@OddViking Wow man thanks for the super quick response, i appreciate it!
So you paint your black Series as well I always want to do that
I did paint my Black Series Poe helmet. Took it all apart and painted it in pieces.
Oh ok that’s cool
In my very limited experience, rust oleum reacts very harshly to many other paints
lots of paints get bad reputations, usually based on other paint issues that would happen with any paint (usually temperature/weather or base layers not yet cured). I have had mostly great experiences with Rustoleum.