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Outstanding tutorial. Thankyou!!

Upol is also way better than the Brondo as its shrinkage is negligible - Brondo has crazy shrinkage and cracks

The Brondo spray filler primer is WAY BETTER than the rust oleum - not even close. Ex. Drying time, fill/stressing, coverage, etc

what about rubber cement instead of the latex?

A few questions: 1) Can wet sanding be done since the beginning, in order to avoid too much dust and preserve the sanding paper (i.e. with 120 sandpaper), or does it work only with higher numbers of sandpaper (i.e. 400 and above)? I have started with a dry 120 and it did barely do anything at all, but the print was not too smooth. It is just a test prototype... 2) Can the protective tape be masking tape, or does it have to be thicker/more protective? Did you remove it by just pulling it up, or did you have to use more caution (like a cutter) in order to prevent more stuff coming off? 3) did you sandpaper also the "future velcro parts areas" before putting tape on them, or did you leave them raw PLA and just put the tape on them? 4) Did you do any work (sandpaper/putty/primer/paint) on the inside (not the edges) or did you leave it raw PLA? Thank you for the precious video!

Ive been researching many ways to finish many sizes of 3d prints. This tutorial is easily the best and most efficient method ive seen for large prints. Thank you so much, cant wait to get started on this method. I just need my large printer to arrive!

Thank you for a great video! I am making a slime blower from Ghostbusters 2 and I am about ready to use this method on the tanks! Can't wait to see the results!!

Tweaking your slicer settings will get rid of those print artifacts. Also, try using random seams instead of aligned seams. I hardly have to do anything in terms of post processing because I took the time to optimize filament, layer, support and quality settings.

Have you tried modeling paste instead of bondo? I hear it's easier to sand down.

Thank you for these videos. They inspired me to make a case for my trooper armor and now I'm off to make that helmet case as well. :)

That acetone-bondo mix is genius - I don't know how I didn't read up on that anywhere else earlier! Very informative

very well laid out and every stage explained perfectly!

I had no idea the vid lasted that long, this is how a tutorial vid should be. In depth and to the point, with actual demonstration of it.

Purely hypothetically speaking... let's say you used one of your wife's nice bowls to mix this stuff in. How would you go about cleaning it? Asking for a friend.

Great tutorial! I learnt a lot throughout the 4 parts. As far as diffusing LEDs, have you considered using LED foam (Plastazote LD45)? I haven't used it a whole lot, but so far, it works great for me!

I appreciate how you not just explain key points but also demonstrate (e.g. acetone effect on solo cup). These nuances set your video far above others. Well done!

Hey! Great technique.. I just tried it and it worked great. How do you clean your brush afterward? Do you soak it in acetone?

Absolutely love this. It’s these additions that can make or break a starwars ambiance. I’ve used adhesion promoter I believe rustoleum makes it. Really helped with the cases I’ve been doing.

Dude, this may be the smartest video I’ve seen. Thank you for all the details and especially for not sounding like the other CZcamsrs (annoying).

The red on that Stormtrooper case does seem to fit, if you think of it as a blood stain left after a battle

hey thanks for this video i am getting into 3D printing and this really helps

so im trying to follow your method. I wet sanded with 220 and it basically removed almost all the bondo. am I doing something wrong?

I just ordered my first bed slinger so, I'm benging vids like this. Thanks for the info and the insperation.

I'm new to making move prop but slowly getting there and thanks to this video I've learn something new, thanks man!

the water in wet sanding basically become like lubricant, it make the sanding more smoothly, and the grid come down a little too, but I agree, it keep dust away, making it more effective and literally smoothing out the sand, making you you less likely getting scratch on your primer, hence smoother finished, also this channel is super underrated

If you aren’t trooping as Tech yet then you really should. 😄 Amazing work! 💪

My best tips: matte finnish, matt/satin coats after. They make your cosolay photos look soo much better. Unless you go perfect gloss coats. 100%.

Really great stuff man. I don't know if I'd ever make props, but if I do, I'm subbed and know right where to go!

One of the best start to finish... finishing videos I've found. A good friend is printing me a full size 40k chainsword, and it will be my first attempt at this type of finishing and painting. I will be rewatching this several times in preparation. Any tips or videos you could point me at for painting small details that will require brush work? This is also something I've never done.

Can you use this method on PLA?

I haven't met a anyone in the 501st acting like that yet, I've had great experiences with all the 501st members I've met, I'm joining because of them, I agree with your response.

Commenting just because this was worth the watch and deserves the engagement, thank you.

Great info.

Hey man, love your work, looks really awesome. I wanted to say, have you heard of Protopasta? They have a filament that has actual metal powder fibers in it and you can actually sand and buff it to get an actual shine on the print. You can even have it naturally patina. Check it out if you haven’t seen their stuff.

Wonderful work! Thank you for the great guide.

I'm wondering how you made the Rebel Endor Helmet? I've always wanted one :) I have stl files for the doughnut, just not sure where to get the WWI/WWII pilot hat?

got my new Stormbringer bucket in the other day.. cant wait to sand.. lol

Good to know . Going to try it out 😊

Worth the hour of time. Thank you for being thorough. Excellent tutorial.

I am follow8mg all of your tips and tricks for a Fallout NCR Ranger helmet. You have been a great help. Keep up all the great work you do!

Have you tried vinyl upholstery dye as a base coat? I love it. It comes in an aerosol spray can.

Couple of ideas for you. 1) debuting tool for edges 2) heat gun or little flamer burner will reduce a lot 3) seems on some parts you can force the seem to inside of part. 4) Variable layer near the top Leila save stair casing 5) increase top and bottom layers so you don’t blow through Into infill when sanding 6) use acetone with abs to make a glue or use acetone to glue abs parts directly - abs welding

What printer do you have or do you get it done by someone else?

Very cool. This is going to help out my mando build for my son.

When I finally used the right sanding paper I was so happy 😂 Good paper makes the difference!

thank you for all these videos. it was amazing to see the full process of it all

I would love to see a video on how you add a metallic finish to your prints as you mentioned at 0:54. I’ve been trying to do that on my own with spray paint. I got one spray paint was retired so I could only buy it off of eBay called Revell chrome spray. From what I’ve seen it’s the only spray paint that actually works as chrome with its mirror finish. Anyways well done on this fully comprehensive video. I just subscribed. I’m looking forward to seeing more of your content.

Ok, underrated, must subscribe, many thanks...

I just tried this method and it was a disaster.... Mostly because i was using the wrong Bondo 😂 It dried on me almost immediately, turning my helmet into an absolute mess! I now have the correct bondo and ready to give it another shot! 😅

Thank you so much for the details. I am starting down this path to learn and this is one of the best videos I have seen!