HOW TO Dry Brush Painting & Weathering for Props & Cosplay
Vložit
- čas přidán 18. 02. 2018
- Dry brushing can add a realistic weather worn finish to your prop and costume projects, but it requires a subtle application. Bill shows you how to accomplish this wonderful finishing technique.
Links:
Join the Extra Credit Club! punishedprops.com/extra-credi...
M5 Phalanx Blog Write-Up: punishedprops.com/2012/05/27/m...
Tools & Materials:
Liquitex Heavy Body Acrylic Paints - Amazon
amzn.to/1MMZ1Zg
Tamiya Paints
www.tamiyausa.com/items/paint...
Rub 'n Buff - Amazon
amzn.to/2frJ6r2
Superglue - Amazon
amzn.to/1y8ynly
Acid Brushes - Amazon
amzn.to/2EGjE0y
Chip Brushes - Amazon
amzn.to/2svvEgl
Tester's Metalizer Sealer - Amazon
amzn.to/2Bq1jm8
Punished Props Mission: Transforming passionate fans into confident, skillful makers. Find out more at www.punishedprops.com
We release new videos every month!
Fun ways to help our channel:
Join the Extra Credit Club! punishedprops.com/extra-credi...
Buy our books! www.punishedprops.com/shop
Share your projects with us on twitter!
/ chinbeard
We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
#PunishedProps - Jak na to + styl
Late to this, but I love the idea that you need to seal the fake wear you added so that it doesn't get wiped off by actual wear. 😀
You're protecting your wear and tear from wear and tear.
I just can't get enough of this. I don't do any prop-making, just loads of practicals, like computer cases, RC doodads, and various household objects, but I swear I'll probably put battle damage on a cup-holder or GoPro mount eventually after watching your videos.
Turn your paint jar into a rattle can... simple but brilliant :)
I enjoyed this series a lot!
Thanks! =D
"Oh we'll just see about that!" so sassy! I love it!
“Sassy” is my middle name.
The key that brings your prop to life. Hands down my favorite part!
We couldn't agree more :)
- Paige
I remember being in a Warhammer 40K club and someone was working on some models. They used dry brushing and had a colour scheme that was essentially pinks blues and purples. They used the back of their hand as a wiping surface and their SO at home was pretty worried when they came back with what looked like a 3 inch diameter bruise
HAH! Oops!
Silver Sharpie works pretty well, too, especially for chipping. Less so for scratches.
Sharpie is definitely a quick, easy method, but I've found it tends to be a little too heavy handed for most of what I do.
I have a silver acrylic paint pen that I use like you would a sharpie, then I smear with the chip brush
Bill Doran videos are my ASMR video to others. Thanks Bill!
Sweet and simple, a little really does go a long ways. Great vid!
I love the nut in the paint bottle idea. I use cocktail sticks as mini-mixers, but may have to move to this.
Great as always. Thanks!
Cutting the brush bristles and super glue around the base were useful tips!
Awesome! Been looking for a good drybrushing guide, thank you!!
You're welcome!
awesome! thank you!
You're so welcome!
That gun is coming out awesome!!
Awesome video!!!
Thanks very much!
Bill, I'd love to see a vidjayo on paint compatibility, i.e. what can you paint on top of what without totally jacking up your paint job. You touched on this a bit with oil-paint weathering, but I think it deserves a longer discussion. Lacquer before beer, never fear?
I'll have to do a ton more testing before I can come up with a definitive answer on paint types, but Volpin does a pretty good job covering some paint types in his book: punishedprops.com/shop/volpin-painting-weathering/
great videos. Using some of your techniques for a full mandalorian armor set.
Heck yeah!
I love it!!!
Any advice how to drybrush a latex mask.
The modern rogue brought me here. I like your work man!
Thank you very much! We're glad to have you!
Have you used rub n buff in any of your props? if yes, please let me know if that stays as permanent or fades over time ( if the piece is handled frequently )
Thank Bill ... I probably over do this on a regular basis :)
You and me both!
dooooope.
Hey Bill! Super helpful. I just bought the Mandalorian blaster kit from War Machine Paintball (super excited) but also way over my head and I have been researching the best way to paint and weather the aluminum parts. I think I am going to spray paint the parts just like you did the aluminum piece here and then use steel wool to weather it. My question to you is- do you recommend weathering the parts before assembly? Or assembling and then weathering the gun as a whole? Thanks!
Hmmm I usually weather after assembly, since that looks more realistic. You may need to alter your methods to make sure you can still take it apart as needed.
Everytime I see a new video from Bill I get so excited that I chant "BILL BILL BILL BILL" like Bill Nye the Science Guy's theme song
I like that!
I have a hard time doing this to my blaster's, being a former soldier it just seems so wrong to have a messy weapon lol. I like how you did the rubbing part with the scratch pad though that is more realistic as weapons are blued so it's more common to see that kind of wear over time. Even my 1920 38 looks slightly worn like it was removed from a holster.
I will give it a try on one of my blasters though and post it here for some feed back. I am currently working on Jyn Erso's A180 blaster pistol.
That's super cool! Shoot me a photo over on twitter. twitter.com/chinbeard
I will do that I will do a before and after weathering, I am hoping to get it done this weekend.
Larry
What is the background music ? I'm enjoying it as much as the tutorial ! :)
We get our music from artlist.io
I've totally used my Glock as reference for props too :-)
Glocks are where it's at 😂
Do we have to clear coat before weathering? I airbrushes a prop which is all sealed underneath before painting, but I didn’t do a clear coat before weathering and it stripped my paint off when I wiped it down. I used all acrylics please help thanks!
Hey Bill, how do you feel about Liquid Latex masking for hard weathering jobs? I'm talking like, battle scarring where the paint's been torn from the metal by some form of attack. Would you say to just paint that on top of the outer layer like dry-brushing gone a little mad, or mask it off with liquid latex from a metallic underlayer?
I've used latex before and it works pretty well, though it can be a little tricky to remove. You would apply it under your paint and then remove, though you could always augment with dry brushing.
Bill, you rock...nuff said. I love building and creating, but molding scares me away for some reason. I'm thinking, though I have not researched it, is probably due to the cost. What is the usual materials cost on a prop like this just in molding alone?
The silicone cost for something this size is probably around $100.
How would you do a heavy general worn gun blue finish? After a while they get a kinda mottled finish all over
I've never done that specific kind of finish. I'll have to look into it.
Hello nice tutorial your review help me a lot , next can you me a tutorial how make a M-3 Predator heavy gun from mass effect 3 please !
Here's a tutorial for that pistol: czcams.com/video/Hpu5ZX1G4fU/video.html
My man pulled out the glock 😂 good taste in firearms even if it is just a airsoft gun.
How often do you reapply paint to the brush? After each pass or when it's completely dry? That's something I always get wrong
When it's completely dry.
@Punished Props do you know where I could get an accurate and convention friendly prop of a Colt single action army / .45 Peacemaker?
It seems to be the gun that the Gmod Tool Gun is built on and I want to make a Tool Gun replica. All I can find is undersized kids guns and metal airsoft ones that are too expensive for a prop and not convention friendly.
I've seen metal replica versions for as low as ~$60 on Amazon. Might be your best bet.
Do black panther claws plz
Hey Bill, great video :) Do you have any tips on dirty-ing props? I am making Malcolm Reynold's pistol from Firefly and the dirty-ing is intimidating me a lot... :)
You can do it! My favorite method is using water mixable oil paints: czcams.com/video/SHx0VkujKeM/video.html
Less is more. You can always make a prop dirtier, but it's much harder to remove the paint!
@@punishedprops I watched the video and I am much more confident now! This is my first ever prop (I am 13) and I am sure it will turn out fantastic thanks to your advice :) Have a great day
Awesome can you do some power rangers related stuff?
You should make stuff from halo, like sparten, elite and hunter helmets
Sorry I don't have any more Halo builds planned, but here's a sniper rifle I made a while back: punishedprops.com/2013/05/24/halo-4-sniper-rifle/
Would you be able to apply this same concept with Rub and Buff?
Certainly, you just need to be super gentle with RnB. It tends to lay down super thick.
so you should probably do this before or after the "dirtying?"
I usually do the darker, grimy pass before the edge weathering. Bear in mind that you can go back and forth between the two to sneak up on the finish you're trying to accomplish.
Not bad, but if you wanted to go for super authentic you can use metal tape, paint over it and just scratch the paint off too. because then.. well it's legitimately chipped off paint, or for complex areas metallic paint undercoat, and then rub the top coat down to it there are some really nice chrome sprays for that kind of thing.
That's an AWESOME idea!
although that first wet brushing you did works well for simulating rusty metal
Ooh good idea. I'll have to do a video on that effect some time.
Hey, Bill do you know anything about casting vinyl? I can't find much info online.
Sadly I do not.
Punished Props Academy Ok thanks for replying
I'd love to see you build the night vision goggles from Jurassic Park!
I have a question. If make a mold out of a paper based mold,will it work and not stick?
I've never done that, so I'm not quite sure.
I mean like if I used Pepe Kira as a model would that work?
Do you mean if you make a prop using the Pepakura method and then wanted to make a mold using that as the buck? I believe some people have done that in the past, but keep in mind structural integrity and surface quality. Silicone picks up ALL details on the surface of your prop. You'd likely need to do a few layers of fiber glass and sanding to ensure structural stability as well as surface quality. Hope that helps!
- Paige
Yes
What base is the metallic paint? Oil? Water?
Acrylic!
Please make killmonger mask from black panther.
Where can I get that airsoft?
I don't recall where I got mine, but this is similar: www.evike.com/products/77832/
I just use my chrome gundam marker XD
My metallic paint is too light and I can’t see it
Try a darker tone like gun metal - might work better for you!
Won’t the piece of metal you put in the paint rust eventually?
Nah it should be fine - I don't plan to use something like this outside much and the clear coat layer over top of everything protects the surface as well
Have you seen this helmet yet it’s from Mass Effect Andromeda. You get it as a prize from their site. cdna.artstation.com/p/assets/images/images/005/472/694/large/patrik-karlsson-n7helmet.jpg?1491285126
If I had a dollar every time bill said tiny bit I'd be rich
It's true
So there's no "special" paint for dry brush?
Nope! It's just very very little paint applied lightly. A crappy brush works best!
@@punishedprops thanks!
Nothing triggers me more than someone who doesn't know how to properly dry brush :P
Just trying to learn and get better here champ
It is very very hard to follow your projects in order!
They're not really in any particular order. We post new projects every week and sometimes we grab an older prop ad do something new with it! If you watch videos in the order they're uploaded, then you'll technically be watching in order, hope that helps!
"drybrushing"
Dry brushing and stippling works really well for making a simple colour variance; and a bit of edging with a slightly lighter tone can give a really nice effect.
If you want to go the extra mile, try starting with a slightly wetter drybrush of a much darker metallic, before the silver, to give it more of a gradient
That's a neat idea!
It works for the miniature painters (o: