Thank you for the time and effort put into both of your videos. I have a 2001 115 HP yamaha doing the same thing, buzzer alarm at 4000 rpm. Only because I broke off a thermostat bolt is the reason I found the salt and scale build up under the water jacket cover. This is my answer. I was able to remove the broken bolt. Thanks again.
Well, you did a fantastic job. Thank you. I’ve been looking at a lot of stuff on CZcams and you explained it well what worked but didn’t work thank you very much. I’m sure you saved a lot of people lotta time. Great job.
So this is how I did it. Filled up a tote with water, gal Of distilled white vinegar and removed thermostat. Ran the motor in the tote until water was hot . 10-15 minutes maybe. Cycled it a few times a week . Took off the side cover and it was clean as a whistle 👍🏼
Thank you for making this video!!! I just bought an old Yama 15 that appears to be pretty gunked up with salt and mineral deposits. I'm going to use your technique to flush it out. Best regards from Key West, Capt. Blackheart Charlie
Great video and thank you. My question is when you flush with "Salt Away", I assume through the port side connection, are you running the motor or just water hose only? The reason I ask is, which I am sure you are aware of, is that if the thermostats are closed the thermostats and where they seat are not being flushed. Regardless, I will definitely be purchasing Rydlyme for my annual maintenance. Thank you
Hey buddy I have the same motor and I leave my boat in the water all summer and I have no flush hose on mine. I always wanted to add one, did you add yours? Could you let me know where yours leads so I can add one? I would love to be able to give a fresh water rinse after a day on the water. Thank you
Good video. I've used the stuff and the motor always works great afterwards, but seems to come back with the overheat. (2001 130 version). Currently limited to about 3600 rpm on a longer run. Just a note that when previously doing this hooking up to the flush attachment and trying that same deal water came out of the thermostat area really quickly when I turned the hose on. You can also feel the housing while running water (or the solution) through and be able to tell by the temperature where it is getting to. I used a pond pump with mine and this time will be getting and using a bigger pond pump.
I'm sure that will work. My thought is that since I'm going to change the impeller on an annual basis, I'll have the lower unit off and it will be easy and a good time to do the flush. Hooking up the water directly to the intake tube, there's no question.
@@BataviaVids Couple concerns, Won't these descaling products wear out gaskets? Head gasket? Any internal rubbers etc? Does that motor have anodes? Looks like it gets that bad because anodes may be worn out? Why plug the tel tale? Isn't that a hazard for water not getting out?
The misconception is that when you connect the muffs or hose to the flushing port that the flushing goes trough the entire engine. It does not. I went through the same process as you did and finally connected my 12v bilge pump directly to the intake water tube as you did. I used a different product (Barnacle Buster) and i was amazed at how much it actually cleaned out. My engine was a 1998 Yamaha 200 2stroke. I wonder how much circulation we are actually getting with the newer motors and the MFG suggested flush hose ports.
I have a 1994 Yamaha 85, and I also found that I couldn't effectively flush with Rydlyme unless I stuck a hose into the pickup tube the way you did. I think Rydlyme is a bit misleading in saying you can flush through earmuffs. It isn't possible with these engines, even with the impeller removed.
@@brandonfouts5771 set it into a 55 gallon drum and pore it into the barrel or take the thermostat out and pore some in and let it set it does not hurt any rubber or plastics or fiber.. getter done!
I will be taking my pontoon boat up the Neuse River in NC and that is really brackish water. I will be using a public boat launch to both launch and recover. There is no water faucet to hook a hose up to for at minimum an initial flushing with just plain no salt water. My thought is to have a couple gallons of mixed de-scaler and water and with a funnel get it down the two flush ports I have on my Suzuki 150. Once I complete the 3 1/2 to 4 hour drive home, I will go through the full de-salinization process properly. What are your thoughts on my plan??
I think you're overthinking. Adopt a good flushing practice but don't worry if you can't adhere to it 100% of the time. I spent some of my first boating years trying to do everything right and stressing when I couldn't, it took so much joy from the experience. Best of luck to you!
It's impossible to have perfect cleaned water passages while flushing with removed thermo with motor ON or OFF some manual scraping will be useful for a near perfect neat finish...
two Russian guys had a good video, they took off the lower unit and hooked up a small pump like you did to the water pick up tube above the impeller, they also took out the thermostats and that way the cleaning solution went thru the entire water-cooling system.No need to run the engine.
Not sure why you would expect the stuff to get into the upper head ways it you removed the impeller from the lower unit. Isn't that what pumps the cooler water that comes into the intakes where your muffs were.? I like Rydlyme. I will be doing an annual flush with it.
The impeller on the water pump does its job only when it is operating or rapidly turning while the engine is running. What he was attempting to do is pump fluid up the system minus the pump, technically he would have to match the pressure created by the water pump (while operating) to get the fluid up to the engine head. He compensated by removing the lower unit and attached directly to the coolant tube which bypassed the curves and pathways via lower unit/water pump housing obstructing the flow and requiring lots more pressure. RYDlyme is expensive but, fantastic stuff!
Why wouldn't you show what it looked like when it was actually flushing? So was the thermostat cover on the whole time? Did the water flush out of the tell? You know where it pisses?
Once I verified that it was coming up through the head, I put the thermostat covers back on. And yes, it would also come out of the pisser so I blocked that so that I could recirculate as much of it as possible.
Doesn't it make sense to run the motor inside a large drum of water for about 15 mins? Because that basically replicates how the salt water got in there in the first place right? Or does the prop have to be spinning.
No, you don't want the prop to be spinning at any time when you're flushing it. And yes, you could just run it in a large drum. A lot of people do it that way. I've just found that since I'm pulling the lower unit off, that is a good time to do it. Also by doing it that way, I can use less of it and keep the concentration higher. If you use a large drum and you want to keep the concentration at 50/50, you're going to need a lot more of the product.
@@Kevin-hy6ln I have tested my motor for the first time and there is only smoke coming out of the tell tale. This is a quick vid of it czcams.com/video/Fk1oe0gKDIA/video.html
anybody ever try hooking the hose to the tell tell outlet????--or maybe just rigging the hose to the thermostat opening??/-im fixin to do my evinrude 40hp but im usin muriatic acid diluted to either 5 to 1 or 10 to 1-ill do a you tube video when i do and ill try these suggestions
Have you had any problems with the motor since flushing? I'm wondering if this weakens the head gasket sealing area so doing some homework before trying it myself.
Hmmm. Actually, my head gasket and water jacket gaskets are both leaking and I have plans to replace both of them this weekend! When I pull them, I'm going to check for warpage. It didn't occur to me that this flush might have something to do with it. I guess it's possible but don't know how to verify it one way or the other.
@@BataviaVids Did either give you trouble in the many years before the flush? Try to get it apart as carefully as possible and look for pitting in the metal around the edges where the gasket meets the metal. If the head gaskets are the type with metal inserts, look to see if any of it is eaten away. From what I can tell the flush chemical is acidic, which works great for removing calcium deposits like salt, but acids can also react with metals. Then again it's also possible that corrosion from years in salt ate the metal away too so it's going to be difficult to tell for sure. Either way it will be interesting to see what you find. I sure would like to use it on my own motor which has seen 20 years of salt use, but I'm a little uneasy about potential issues.
@@8180634 I just replaced the gaskets about 2 years ago and yes, they do have the metal edges on them. I'll look closely at them when I pull them apart and let you know. Also, I did an earlier video that you might want to take a look at in relation to my original overheating problem and my first attempt at flushing.
Finished replacing all of the gaskets. I looked closely at all of them and there was nothing obvious as in rips, tears, the metal rings in the gasket looked good with no pitting or corrosion in the metal. Not sure why they appeared to be seeping. I took extra care this time in making sure all of the surfaces were extremely flat, clean and shiney before putting everything back together. Even though I flush the motor every time with Salt Off, the amount of crap that was back in the cooling system was seriously depressing. There's got to be a better way of keeping the passages clean.
@@BataviaVids How long do you flush for? I let mine run at high idle for a good 15 min as I wash the boat with another hose. I bought the motor new in 99' and it gets year round salt water use. No idea how many hours, but I'm on the 3rd hour meter and it's reading almost 500 hours. So far I haven't flushed with anything except water, but it's starting to get little pebbles of crap clogging up the pee stream, so I was thinking of trying one of these chemicals to dissolve that type of stuff, but no overheating issues yet. One more thought, is it possible the crap in your motor was sand as opposed to salt? If you're in silty water maybe you just have sand and mud packing up in there.
I don’t think you should attempting this if you didn’t even know that by removing the impeller, water won’t circulate and get pulled up to the thermostat. That’s cooling 101.
I don't think you should write a reply without watching the video! He wasn't using the impeller to circulate the water. He was using an electrical pump to circulate the water.
Her it is man..measure PH in and coming out . I saw everyone was wondering how to know it really all clean in the entire engine. Let it go till the PH issue saane going in as coming out.. czcams.com/video/_hx3juqQNTM/video.html
@@11111Rich no salt is a acid. Salt corrosion will stop when wash with soap and baking soda . Look I'm a taxidermist. Whether if you use formic acid or pickling Crystal and salt. Or just plan salt. If you don't Wash it in baking soda the salt will keep being salt.
Thank you for the time and effort put into both of your videos. I have a 2001 115 HP yamaha doing the same thing, buzzer alarm at 4000 rpm. Only because I broke off a thermostat bolt is the reason I found the salt and scale build up under the water jacket cover. This is my answer. I was able to remove the broken bolt. Thanks again.
Well, you did a fantastic job. Thank you. I’ve been looking at a lot of stuff on CZcams and you explained it well what worked but didn’t work thank you very much. I’m sure you saved a lot of people lotta time. Great job.
So this is how I did it. Filled up a tote with water, gal Of distilled white vinegar and removed thermostat. Ran the motor in the tote until water was hot . 10-15 minutes maybe. Cycled it a few times a week . Took off the side cover and it was clean as a whistle 👍🏼
Thank you for making this video!!! I just bought an old Yama 15 that appears to be pretty gunked up with salt and mineral deposits. I'm going to use your technique to flush it out.
Best regards from Key West,
Capt. Blackheart Charlie
great thought process you have there. ive been traumatised by my beeping yamaha 225hp vmax for two years. now i can try this method. more fun, yippy!
Did it ever work out for you?
Let us know if it worked or not please thanks, Captain Rick
Great stuff I have been using it for years.
Great video and thank you. My question is when you flush with "Salt Away", I assume through the port side connection, are you running the motor or just water hose only? The reason I ask is, which I am sure you are aware of, is that if the thermostats are closed the thermostats and where they seat are not being flushed. Regardless, I will definitely be purchasing Rydlyme for my annual maintenance. Thank you
excellent video sir
Great video!
RYDLYME 👍👍I use it too.....and did multiple vids on a 250 Suzuki 4 stroke.
Hey buddy I have the same motor and I leave my boat in the water all summer and I have no flush hose on mine. I always wanted to add one, did you add yours? Could you let me know where yours leads so I can add one? I would love to be able to give a fresh water rinse after a day on the water. Thank you
Good video. I've used the stuff and the motor always works great afterwards, but seems to come back with the overheat. (2001 130 version). Currently limited to about 3600 rpm on a longer run. Just a note that when previously doing this hooking up to the flush attachment and trying that same deal water came out of the thermostat area really quickly when I turned the hose on. You can also feel the housing while running water (or the solution) through and be able to tell by the temperature where it is getting to. I used a pond pump with mine and this time will be getting and using a bigger pond pump.
I'm sure that will work. My thought is that since I'm going to change the impeller on an annual basis, I'll have the lower unit off and it will be easy and a good time to do the flush. Hooking up the water directly to the intake tube, there's no question.
@@BataviaVids Couple concerns,
Won't these descaling products wear out gaskets? Head gasket? Any internal rubbers etc?
Does that motor have anodes? Looks like it gets that bad because anodes may be worn out?
Why plug the tel tale? Isn't that a hazard for water not getting out?
Did that fix your overheating problem?
The misconception is that when you connect the muffs or hose to the flushing port that the flushing goes trough the entire engine. It does not. I went through the same process as you did and finally connected my 12v bilge pump directly to the intake water tube as you did. I used a different product (Barnacle Buster) and i was amazed at how much it actually cleaned out. My engine was a 1998 Yamaha 200 2stroke. I wonder how much circulation we are actually getting with the newer motors and the MFG suggested flush hose ports.
It's a good question but other than pulling it apart, this seems like the best way to do it.
I have a 1994 Yamaha 85, and I also found that I couldn't effectively flush with Rydlyme unless I stuck a hose into the pickup tube the way you did. I think Rydlyme is a bit misleading in saying you can flush through earmuffs. It isn't possible with these engines, even with the impeller removed.
@@brandonfouts5771 set it into a 55 gallon drum and pore it into the barrel or take the thermostat out and pore some in and let it set it does not hurt any rubber or plastics or fiber.. getter done!
I will be taking my pontoon boat up the Neuse River in NC and that is really brackish water. I will be using a public boat launch to both launch and recover. There is no water faucet to hook a hose up to for at minimum an initial flushing with just plain no salt water. My thought is to have a couple gallons of mixed de-scaler and water and with a funnel get it down the two flush ports I have on my Suzuki 150. Once I complete the 3 1/2 to 4 hour drive home, I will go through the full de-salinization process properly.
What are your thoughts on my plan??
I think you're overthinking. Adopt a good flushing practice but don't worry if you can't adhere to it 100% of the time. I spent some of my first boating years trying to do everything right and stressing when I couldn't, it took so much joy from the experience. Best of luck to you!
It's impossible to have perfect cleaned water passages while flushing with removed thermo with motor ON or OFF some manual scraping will be useful for a near perfect neat finish...
Do you think that a bushing could be inserted into the thermostat openings and pump thru them?
I think that could help for sure but there's a lot of twists and turns and dead ends that would still be hard to get at.
Thanks for the video! What about just using vinegar to flush the engine?
I've never used just vinegar but it sounds like is is pretty popular with a lot of people.
pull the lower and just attached a hose direct to the pick up tube.
Don't forget to remove the zinc anodes as well
two Russian guys had a good video, they took off the lower unit and hooked up a small pump like you did to the water pick up tube above the impeller, they also took out the thermostats and that way the cleaning solution went thru the entire water-cooling system.No need to run the engine.
Not sure why you would expect the stuff to get into the upper head ways it you removed the impeller from the lower unit. Isn't that what pumps the cooler water that comes into the intakes where your muffs were.? I like Rydlyme. I will be doing an annual flush with it.
The impeller on the water pump does its job only when it is operating or rapidly turning while the engine is running. What he was attempting to do is pump fluid up the system minus the pump, technically he would have to match the pressure created by the water pump (while operating) to get the fluid up to the engine head. He compensated by removing the lower unit and attached directly to the coolant tube which bypassed the curves and pathways via lower unit/water pump housing obstructing the flow and requiring lots more pressure. RYDlyme is expensive but, fantastic stuff!
@@Davidrixmusic Exactly.
Is there a reason you didn't just warm the engine up then run the engine at idle in a bucket with the solution?
Yes because you're not using that much solution and water and it would overheat quickly.
What is the advantage of the bilge pump vs just running the engine?
You can run the bilge as long as you want without the risk of overheating the motor.
Would it reach the thermostat if you turned the motor on ??
Yes, but I didn't want to run the motor.
Why wouldn't you show what it looked like when it was actually flushing? So was the thermostat cover on the whole time? Did the water flush out of the tell? You know where it pisses?
Once I verified that it was coming up through the head, I put the thermostat covers back on. And yes, it would also come out of the pisser so I blocked that so that I could recirculate as much of it as possible.
Doesn't it make sense to run the motor inside a large drum of water for about 15 mins? Because that basically replicates how the salt water got in there in the first place right? Or does the prop have to be spinning.
No, you don't want the prop to be spinning at any time when you're flushing it. And yes, you could just run it in a large drum. A lot of people do it that way. I've just found that since I'm pulling the lower unit off, that is a good time to do it. Also by doing it that way, I can use less of it and keep the concentration higher. If you use a large drum and you want to keep the concentration at 50/50, you're going to need a lot more of the product.
@@Kevin-hy6ln I have tested my motor for the first time and there is only smoke coming out of the tell tale. This is a quick vid of it
czcams.com/video/Fk1oe0gKDIA/video.html
Bro, fill that bucket and start the engine.. let it run til its warm and shut it off.. let it sit and then run it some more and flush it all out..
Looks more like electrologists than normal salt water buildup how are your anodes?
What's the Brit equivalent to this rydlyme descale please?
Cleaning vinegar
anybody ever try hooking the hose to the tell tell outlet????--or maybe just rigging the hose to the thermostat opening??/-im fixin to do my evinrude 40hp but im usin muriatic acid diluted to either 5 to 1 or 10 to 1-ill do a you tube video when i do and ill try these suggestions
Have you had any problems with the motor since flushing? I'm wondering if this weakens the head gasket sealing area so doing some homework before trying it myself.
Hmmm. Actually, my head gasket and water jacket gaskets are both leaking and I have plans to replace both of them this weekend! When I pull them, I'm going to check for warpage. It didn't occur to me that this flush might have something to do with it. I guess it's possible but don't know how to verify it one way or the other.
@@BataviaVids Did either give you trouble in the many years before the flush? Try to get it apart as carefully as possible and look for pitting in the metal around the edges where the gasket meets the metal. If the head gaskets are the type with metal inserts, look to see if any of it is eaten away. From what I can tell the flush chemical is acidic, which works great for removing calcium deposits like salt, but acids can also react with metals. Then again it's also possible that corrosion from years in salt ate the metal away too so it's going to be difficult to tell for sure. Either way it will be interesting to see what you find. I sure would like to use it on my own motor which has seen 20 years of salt use, but I'm a little uneasy about potential issues.
@@8180634 I just replaced the gaskets about 2 years ago and yes, they do have the metal edges on them. I'll look closely at them when I pull them apart and let you know. Also, I did an earlier video that you might want to take a look at in relation to my original overheating problem and my first attempt at flushing.
Finished replacing all of the gaskets. I looked closely at all of them and there was nothing obvious as in rips, tears, the metal rings in the gasket looked good with no pitting or corrosion in the metal. Not sure why they appeared to be seeping. I took extra care this time in making sure all of the surfaces were extremely flat, clean and shiney before putting everything back together.
Even though I flush the motor every time with Salt Off, the amount of crap that was back in the cooling system was seriously depressing. There's got to be a better way of keeping the passages clean.
@@BataviaVids How long do you flush for? I let mine run at high idle for a good 15 min as I wash the boat with another hose. I bought the motor new in 99' and it gets year round salt water use. No idea how many hours, but I'm on the 3rd hour meter and it's reading almost 500 hours. So far I haven't flushed with anything except water, but it's starting to get little pebbles of crap clogging up the pee stream, so I was thinking of trying one of these chemicals to dissolve that type of stuff, but no overheating issues yet. One more thought, is it possible the crap in your motor was sand as opposed to salt? If you're in silty water maybe you just have sand and mud packing up in there.
I don’t think you should attempting this if you didn’t even know that by removing the impeller, water won’t circulate and get pulled up to the thermostat. That’s cooling 101.
Why wasn’t water getting to the head with the water hooked directly to the flush port?
I don't think you should write a reply without watching the video! He wasn't using the impeller to circulate the water. He was using an electrical pump to circulate the water.
It its getting to the head dont teach wrong things you van remove cover and see that the water will go to the top of the engine
So moral of the story is salt off sucks
YES!
If he was using the same technique to distribute the salt off maybe it wasn't the salt offs fault??
Where did you get your rydlyme from
I just did a search and called around. I finally found it at a marina. They don't appear to have a lot of dealers.
You can order it on Amazon or just type it in on search
@@BataviaVids don't know where you live but I went to Google and searched for dealers and they will point out the nearest one
Google maps
Order on line Amazon
So, the plan of action would be when you change your water pump impeller, flush your engine.
That's what I'm going to do.
The other thing I'm going to do is when I'm flushing it, I'm going to stop the pump and just let it sit in the head as well.
@@Kevin-hy6ln Yeah, maybe you should heat the water you flush with.
I use 100% pure Canadian maple syrup for flushing my outboard. It’s the only way to do it probably.
Her it is man..measure PH in and coming out
. I saw everyone was wondering how to know it really all clean in the entire
engine.
Let it go till the PH issue saane going in as coming out..
czcams.com/video/_hx3juqQNTM/video.html
Look into muriatic acid if this stuff dont work
Try using baking soda with soap on your maintenance flush. Baking soda will lower the pH in the salt acid and kill it.
baking soda is alkaline (rase pH)......google it if you dont know
@@11111Rich kills the salt
@grifce Baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) will neutralize acid salts if you did put acid in. Perhaps that's what you are trying to say.
@@11111Rich no salt is a acid.
Salt corrosion will stop when wash with soap and baking soda .
Look I'm a taxidermist. Whether if you use formic acid or pickling Crystal and salt.
Or just plan salt. If you don't Wash it in baking soda the salt will keep being salt.
Can leave it in longer. I leave it in overnight.
If you take out the impeller you lose your water pump, it's why the flushing wasn't getting up to the head of the engine!!!