Well done mate. Looks great. I'm in the process of lime plastering my kitchen. Had to take 2inch of concrete off the wall to get back to the stone. You're right when you say it's hard work. Enjoy your restoration. David
Well done thats brilliant and fare play for the perceverence god knows its a lengthy procedure, i know I learned a lot. We removed all the lime render from our 3 bed house because it had totally detached from the stone since 1836 and are now getting ready to reinstate it all. Not looking forward to it but can't wait to see the finish.
Hi Noel - it’s a bit of a job for sure but once it’s done your house will feel better for it. Make sure you wet the brickwork down before your scratch coat and dub out any hollows. It’ll be grand when it’s done. All the best with it…
Thank you it was a great video and I am on the same journey with an old stone house. I removed 40m2 cement render and have completed a scud coat which is drying. I expect to start a scratch coat in a week before applying a lime insulating plaster. It was good to witness the dry time which I understand from your example is easily underestimated.
Hi - Thanks so much for your comment. Your efforts will pay off with a drier and more comfortable home. A good few months on and my walls are holding up well.,,👍 Cheers and good luck with your restoration..
Thanks for sharing. Let me give my lime finishing plaster recipe; I had zero shrinkage cracks with this: -Mix 1 part quicklime with 4 parts sharp sand (dry slake) -sieve with 1mm sieve -I added some pozzolan (Argical m1000, 0.1parts) to try and avoid shrinkage cracks. I'm not sure if this makes any difference though. -mix-in the water, being careful not to add too much. Add the minimum to spread it on the wall, aiming for something like 1mm thickness. -For plastering on existing gypsum I think it is necessary to treat wall with pva solution first. Would be nice to try old-fashioned glue such as rabbit skin glue. After plastering I also brushed the edges with a pva solution on a paint brush. This preventing crumbly edges; worked very well.
Wow - sounds like a good mix and way to avoid cracking. I’m slightly concerned about applying pva as it might affect the movement of moisture. But if it works, all good. Thanks for watching and sharing your knowledge
Hi Michael - Thanks so much for commenting. I have carefully watched your channel and learned so much about old buildings and lime. All the best from the Solway plain where we still have a few ‘clay dabbins’ left 👍👍
The cracking was a bit of a disappointment but I got it sorted in the end. I get a feeling working with lime is a bit of a ‘dark art’. Thanks for watching...
@@solway17carlisle I've just gone through same with my kitchen, topcoated over original floatcoat plaster layer led to a lot of cracking whereas where I topcoated over lime hemp that I put down before there was no cracking, I had put it on quite thick in some places due to uneven surfaces and I don't think the high suction of the old plaster will help. Nice to see somebody else having a go :) good effort.
Good to hear that I’m not alone when it comes to cracking plaster! I managed to patch it up ok in the end and in some of the worse spots I’m afraid I resorted to Easifill 60....
@@solway17carlisle I'd say your finish coat of plaster was applied to thickly in places, usually the reason it cracks like this. Also avoid force drying as this will also make it crack. Great effort though.
Thanks Dan - I think you’re right that where there were deeper patches it cracked more. I needed to dry it quick for family reasons but I know that will have made it a bit worse. I’ll know next time - Cheers
Your walls are way too dry and so are the batches of base coat and finish coats you mixed up. When you mix you have to sift the plaster into the water while the mixer is running. Mixing material for longer than 5 minutes will cause the plaster to set up much faster than normal, as well as, not using enough water. I try to mix for 3 - 3.5 minutes, check how the mix is, add water as needed, then mix another 30 seconds. Base and hardcoats are mixed to be like whipped cream, almost to the point of wanting to run. Not easy for a diy'er but I give you props for trying.
Hi Dennis - that’s useful info to share on here. I knew I had to wet the wall but as there was damp everywhere I was reluctant to go too far with adding to the dampness! Possibly didn’t help that it was cold weather and seemed to take ages to dry. Ah well, thanks for sharing your know-how 👍
Thanks for sharing, video gave me confidence to do my walls in hot lime. Can I get away with using no fibres in the float coat ? Maybe a round edged 0.5mm thick stainless steel Pool float might help to reduce lines in the plaster and allow the plaster to be applied with greater pressure. I might not apply the silica sand finish coat, and just leave it as a rough casted float coat with a textured surface created by a coarse plastic float, or special stiff sponge float.. Back in time, only the rich people's houses would apply the expensive finish coat. Any thoughts, as it would also cut labour time ! Any cracks can be filled with your paint (what is the name of the paint please?), or a hot lime wash as the final 'coat'.
Hi - I think I would experiment and try a section of wall without the fibre. But I think the hair is recommended to reduce cracking and assist with shrinkage. If you can get a good finish with hair I would go that route. I think the finish as you propose is grand. Some of my walls look a bit rough in parts where I used a polyeurathane float I got hold of some Earthborn Clay paint as it’s supposed to be ok with lime plaster and allowing the wall to manage moisture passage. Hope that helps - please be aware I am a DIYer so don’t pretend to be an expert, but my walls are still ok a year later. All the bedt
Very well done! If possible next time your in Carlisle and have an hour to spare, I’d like your opinion on my Georgian townhouse, I’d like your opinion on all things lime and specifically on quantity of lime required from Tim at Eden hotlime. Cheers
Hi - Happy to help, though I did follow the advice of Tim at Eden Hotlime, particularly for amounts of materials etc... Perhaps contact more securely via Facebook/Messenger? facebook.com/
Thank you, trying to keep the project simple/cut costs/reduce labour. With regard to large scale mixing needed to cover 80 square metres of wall, please identify pros and cons of using a hand held Refina mega mixer or a Baron 120 litre forced action mixer. Is it possible to pre mix 4 tonnes of plaster and store it in buckets ahead of the project and knock it up using a hand held mixer ? Which option saves labour and time the most ? Or do I just buy in the mortar in one tonne bags etc ?
Hi - I didn’t use either of the methods you identify but instead did all my mixing of the coarse material in a standard cement mixer. I did use a little paddle whisk to mix up the finer plaster coat. In my case I contacted a local hot lime mortar supplier (Eden Hotlime) and they delivered the material in a large dumpy bag. I told them how deep my scratch coat and base coat would be then they suggested an appropriate amount- it all worked out very well. I mixed as much as I needed on a daily basis allowing time for the various coats to dry off enough before putting subsequent coats on. I think your best option would be to hire a mixer (buy second hand?) and contact a hot lime supplier or Eden Hotlime who were very helpful and may deliver to you. Hope that helps? Best wishes…
Good videos. So similar to the house I’m renovating. How do you rate that Baumit (dg27?) overall, then? Was about to buy some to re-skim a number of walls at mine. Seems to have worked well on that plasterboard patch.
Hi - good luck with the renovations. The Baumit stuff was recommended by the supplier of the lime. I guess it worked well as the walls are still looking good though as you saw in the video I had some ‘second go’s’ Thanks for watching and your comment 🙂👍
Did you float the finish coat with a wood or polyurethane float at any point? I'm curious if floating near the "leather hard" stage or just before would consolidate the plaster and possibly compress away cracks that were trying to form as the moisture level was dropping?
Hi Michael - I tended to just use the metal plasterers trowel for the final plaster coat. I did try using a sponge covered polyeurathane float in places but it left swirl type marks on the surface. In the end most of the surface came out well without cracking. But in some places I resorted to using a little bit of Easyfill 60 minute mix to deal with small patches of cracks. Hope that helps…Regards
Wow - I’m taking a bit of holiday in August plus re-rendering the back wall of my cottage so August is a bit off limits. Love to help you but I’m up in Carlisle so it’s a fair stretch to Yorkshire- all the best with the work you do and take it one day at a time. Regards…👍
Yes. Hotlime came in a dumpy bag, finishing lime plaster came in tubs + the bonding solution where I plastered over existing old plaster. I just let him know what I wanted to do, area required and depth of base coat/float coat
Hi Ian - you may well be right but as a DIYer it was a case of try it and see how it goes….It’s on the wall, pretty solid and a good end result overall. Thanks for your comment and watching 👍
I’ve done plenty of walls like this just using bonding ? Is there really the need to go through all that effort bonding has changed over the these and it keeps getting better and better
V W Hi - these old walls need to have finishes which allow moisture to pass through them and lime plaster is the only option on buildings without a proper damp proof course. Modern plasters and cement form a barrier which traps moisture causing permanent damp. Basically we need to use the materials which were used when these old buildings were constructed. All the best and thanks for watching and commenting 👍
You can and some walls have been dealt with in this way, but in this room there is very little space and I didn’t want to lose any internal space. Plus it doesn’t solve the water content in the clay/cob wall. I eventually lime harled the exterior wall as well to aid moisture transfer from the wall to the outside. So, yep some of the walls are ‘dry lined’ (but who knows what’s happening behind the boards😉). Thanks for commenting, great to hear from folks…
Well done mate. Looks great. I'm in the process of lime plastering my kitchen. Had to take 2inch of concrete off the wall to get back to the stone. You're right when you say it's hard work. Enjoy your restoration. David
Thanks David - sounds like you be got your work cut out in the kitchen. It’s worth it when it’s done though. All the best to you..,
Are you blind
Well done fella . Enjoyed your video
Thanks 👍
Great effort. Entertaining and educational.
Hi Russ - Thanks! - it all worked out in the end. Glad you enjoyed watching 👍
Well done thats brilliant and fare play for the perceverence god knows its a lengthy procedure, i know I learned a lot. We removed all the lime render from our 3 bed house because it had totally detached from the stone since 1836 and are now getting ready to reinstate it all. Not looking forward to it but can't wait to see the finish.
Hi Noel - it’s a bit of a job for sure but once it’s done your house will feel better for it. Make sure you wet the brickwork down before your scratch coat and dub out any hollows. It’ll be grand when it’s done. All the best with it…
Thank you it was a great video and I am on the same journey with an old stone house. I removed 40m2 cement render and have completed a scud coat which is drying. I expect to start a scratch coat in a week before applying a lime insulating plaster. It was good to witness the dry time which I understand from your example is easily underestimated.
Hi - Thanks so much for your comment. Your efforts will pay off with a drier and more comfortable home. A good few months on and my walls are holding up well.,,👍 Cheers and good luck with your restoration..
@@solway17carlisle thanks mate..much appreciated
Many thanks for everything. god bless you, honestly. learning alot along the way
Thankyou Nir that’s very kind - glad it’s useful. Regards
Good one
Thankyou Tejash 👍
Thanks for sharing. Let me give my lime finishing plaster recipe; I had zero shrinkage cracks with this:
-Mix 1 part quicklime with 4 parts sharp sand (dry slake)
-sieve with 1mm sieve
-I added some pozzolan (Argical m1000, 0.1parts) to try and avoid shrinkage cracks. I'm not sure if this makes any difference though.
-mix-in the water, being careful not to add too much. Add the minimum to spread it on the wall, aiming for something like 1mm thickness.
-For plastering on existing gypsum I think it is necessary to treat wall with pva solution first. Would be nice to try old-fashioned glue such as rabbit skin glue. After plastering I also brushed the edges with a pva solution on a paint brush. This preventing crumbly edges; worked very well.
Wow - sounds like a good mix and way to avoid cracking. I’m slightly concerned about applying pva as it might affect the movement of moisture. But if it works, all good. Thanks for watching and sharing your knowledge
Less sharp, more water = less on the floor and an easier application.
Hi Michael - Thanks so much for commenting. I have carefully watched your channel and learned so much about old buildings and lime. All the best from the Solway plain where we still have a few ‘clay dabbins’ left 👍👍
Better than new!😊 ah apart from the cracking😫 perhaps it was drying at different rates on that wall 🤔
The cracking was a bit of a disappointment but I got it sorted in the end. I get a feeling working with lime is a bit of a ‘dark art’. Thanks for watching...
@@solway17carlisle I've just gone through same with my kitchen, topcoated over original floatcoat plaster layer led to a lot of cracking whereas where I topcoated over lime hemp that I put down before there was no cracking, I had put it on quite thick in some places due to uneven surfaces and I don't think the high suction of the old plaster will help. Nice to see somebody else having a go :) good effort.
Good to hear that I’m not alone when it comes to cracking plaster! I managed to patch it up ok in the end and in some of the worse spots I’m afraid I resorted to Easifill 60....
@@solway17carlisle I'd say your finish coat of plaster was applied to thickly in places, usually the reason it cracks like this. Also avoid force drying as this will also make it crack. Great effort though.
Thanks Dan - I think you’re right that where there were deeper patches it cracked more. I needed to dry it quick for family reasons but I know that will have made it a bit worse. I’ll know next time - Cheers
Your walls are way too dry and so are the batches of base coat and finish coats you mixed up. When you mix you have to sift the plaster into the water while the mixer is running. Mixing material for longer than 5 minutes will cause the plaster to set up much faster than normal, as well as, not using enough water.
I try to mix for 3 - 3.5 minutes, check how the mix is, add water as needed, then mix another 30 seconds. Base and hardcoats are mixed to be like whipped cream, almost to the point of wanting to run. Not easy for a diy'er but I give you props for trying.
Hi Dennis - that’s useful info to share on here. I knew I had to wet the wall but as there was damp everywhere I was reluctant to go too far with adding to the dampness! Possibly didn’t help that it was cold weather and seemed to take ages to dry. Ah well, thanks for sharing your know-how 👍
Thanks for sharing, video gave me confidence to do my walls in hot lime. Can I get away with using no fibres in the float coat ?
Maybe a round edged 0.5mm thick stainless steel Pool float might help to reduce lines in the plaster and allow the plaster to be applied with greater pressure. I might not apply the silica sand finish coat, and just leave it as a rough casted float coat with a textured surface created by a coarse plastic float, or special stiff sponge float.. Back in time, only the rich people's houses would apply the expensive finish coat. Any thoughts, as it would also cut labour time ! Any cracks can be filled with your paint (what is the name of the paint please?), or a hot lime wash as the final 'coat'.
Hi - I think I would experiment and try a section of wall without the fibre. But I think the hair is recommended to reduce cracking and assist with shrinkage. If you can get a good finish with hair I would go that route.
I think the finish as you propose is grand. Some of my walls look a bit rough in parts where I used a polyeurathane float
I got hold of some Earthborn Clay paint as it’s supposed to be ok with lime plaster and allowing the wall to manage moisture passage. Hope that helps - please be aware I am a DIYer so don’t pretend to be an expert, but my walls are still ok a year later. All the bedt
Very well done! If possible next time your in Carlisle and have an hour to spare, I’d like your opinion on my Georgian townhouse, I’d like your opinion on all things lime and specifically on quantity of lime required from Tim at Eden hotlime.
Cheers
Hi - Happy to help, though I did follow the advice of Tim at Eden Hotlime, particularly for amounts of materials etc... Perhaps contact more securely via Facebook/Messenger?
facebook.com/
Thank you, trying to keep the project simple/cut costs/reduce labour. With regard to large scale mixing needed to cover 80 square metres of wall, please identify pros and cons of using a hand held Refina mega mixer or a Baron 120 litre forced action mixer. Is it possible to pre mix 4 tonnes of plaster and store it in buckets ahead of the project and knock it up using a hand held mixer ? Which option saves labour and time the most ? Or do I just buy in the mortar in one tonne bags etc ?
Hi - I didn’t use either of the methods you identify but instead did all my mixing of the coarse material in a standard cement mixer. I did use a little paddle whisk to mix up the finer plaster coat. In my case I contacted a local hot lime mortar supplier (Eden Hotlime) and they delivered the material in a large dumpy bag. I told them how deep my scratch coat and base coat would be then they suggested an appropriate amount- it all worked out very well. I mixed as much as I needed on a daily basis allowing time for the various coats to dry off enough before putting subsequent coats on. I think your best option would be to hire a mixer (buy second hand?) and contact a hot lime supplier or Eden Hotlime who were very helpful and may deliver to you. Hope that helps? Best wishes…
Good videos. So similar to the house I’m renovating. How do you rate that Baumit (dg27?) overall, then? Was about to buy some to re-skim a number of walls at mine. Seems to have worked well on that plasterboard patch.
Hi - good luck with the renovations. The Baumit stuff was recommended by the supplier of the lime. I guess it worked well as the walls are still looking good though as you saw in the video I had some ‘second go’s’ Thanks for watching and your comment 🙂👍
Did you float the finish coat with a wood or polyurethane float at any point? I'm curious if floating near the "leather hard" stage or just before would consolidate the plaster and possibly compress away cracks that were trying to form as the moisture level was dropping?
Hi Michael - I tended to just use the metal plasterers trowel for the final plaster coat. I did try using a sponge covered polyeurathane float in places but it left swirl type marks on the surface. In the end most of the surface came out well without cracking. But in some places I resorted to using a little bit of Easyfill 60 minute mix to deal with small patches of cracks. Hope that helps…Regards
What are you doing next month? I've got 4 plastering jobs in Yorkshire. I could do with a lift.
Wow - I’m taking a bit of holiday in August plus re-rendering the back wall of my cottage so August is a bit off limits. Love to help you but I’m up in Carlisle so it’s a fair stretch to Yorkshire- all the best with the work you do and take it one day at a time. Regards…👍
Hi, from where did you bought the lime plaster?
Eden Hotlime mortar from Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria - if you do an internet search you will find others and arrangements for delivery within the UK
Where did you buy your materials from?
Eden Hotlime Mortar near Kirkby Stephen, Cumbria
@@solway17carlisle was this even for the pre mixed lime skim finish
Yes. Hotlime came in a dumpy bag, finishing lime plaster came in tubs + the bonding solution where I plastered over existing old plaster. I just let him know what I wanted to do, area required and depth of base coat/float coat
Good try but your making your life way harder with your mortar being too stiff
Hi Ian - you may well be right but as a DIYer it was a case of try it and see how it goes….It’s on the wall, pretty solid and a good end result overall. Thanks for your comment and watching 👍
Just use bonding plaster 😂
Ha ha! There were times....👍
I’ve done plenty of walls like this just using bonding ? Is there really the need to go through all that effort bonding has changed over the these and it keeps getting better and better
V W Hi - these old walls need to have finishes which allow moisture to pass through them and lime plaster is the only option on buildings without a proper damp proof course. Modern plasters and cement form a barrier which traps moisture causing permanent damp. Basically we need to use the materials which were used when these old buildings were constructed. All the best and thanks for watching and commenting 👍
Can you not just board dot and dab the property?
You can and some walls have been dealt with in this way, but in this room there is very little space and I didn’t want to lose any internal space. Plus it doesn’t solve the water content in the clay/cob wall. I eventually lime harled the exterior wall as well to aid moisture transfer from the wall to the outside. So, yep some of the walls are ‘dry lined’ (but who knows what’s happening behind the boards😉). Thanks for commenting, great to hear from folks…