Great vids you explain plastering and materials so well.The limelight vid is great even how to mix it correctly. Looking forward to your next vid. Well done.
Hi mate great video but as a limelight user myself I have a little tip for you regarding the bubbles, firstly try not to scratch as deep the bubbles come from the plaster not having a key because there is air between the scratch lines and the plaster, Also I tend to do 2 coats on the finish, I use a really tight coat to start to make sure the plaster is pressed into all the scratches and then I use a thicker second coat on top of that and it works wonders for the bubbles.
Nice work mate… we use modern lime products too, might give this a go. We have used lime solo, also use cork insulated plasters too. Plastic trowel is a winner with lime 👍🏻
Thanks, I’ve not tried them I’ll have to look them up. It’s so much easier that the traditional lime. I did a old farm house up in traditional lime, it almost killed me. Yeah the plastic trowels become a game changer for me lately 👍
Cheers Bud, i Really Appreciate it 😀 I’ve been watching your videos fir a while now. You’re doing great I’ve been enjoying them. It’s great seeing a few of us sharing the knowledge 👌
@@AnthonyParryPlastering thanks for the feedback. Only learning off your videos. I liked this one as it was a bit longer, and had more detailed dialogue on the process. I don’t do much lime, so I liked how you went about this job. Keeping a watch on your 1000 sub target. Getting close. 💪💪💪
Thanks, I think we’re all learning from each other. I love getting tips and tricks from everyone. I’ve been copying you today I’ve been doing sand and cement with my Refina Superflex 3 it’s been in need of breaking it in too. Yeah it’s not getting far off a 1000 now. You’re not that far off yourself 👍 just gotta keep putting yourself out there 😀
I'm a retired plasterer/drywall finisher in the US. Have enjoyed watching. I am curious about the limelite material as to how it would compare with the USG Structolite here in the US which is a lightweight base coat plaster with crushed volcanic glass aggregate that can be used for thicker applications..
Great video Anthony! Can you advise as to whether using this renovating Limelite would be ok to use and apply to Cob walls instead of a lime putty render? Or would you not use Limelite on Cob Wall?
I tried to resist but I can't. I have to have my two-penneth worth. Hope you don't mind. I don't use Limelite myself because - although it certainly is an alternative to lime plaster - it is far from an alternative to genuine traditional lime plaster. Limelite is quick and easy but it's not a conservation product. Tarmac have been careful to call it renovating plaster because that doesn't mean anything. Nevertheless, their marketing strategy makes it sound like it possibility might be suitable for older buildings. But the fact is, Conservation Departments won't accept it on listed buildings because it contains cement and isn't breathable. I can see why you used it on a small job like that. And you have actually done a lovely job. I understand that a traditional 3 coat system would make a job like that untenable. I must complement you on that join though, it's not just the product or the right tools which make that happen.
Hi, Trying this product for the first time. Was wondering if you dampened down the wall before applying or do you tend not to bother. If it had been a larger area would you have done? Would appreciate your guidance. Thanks
What sort of paddle are you using and why that sort compared to the more traditional paddle.? I thought it was a bird cage paddle but it does seem to be so when viewing it on it side. Is there an advantage to using this paddle? Thank you!
I’m doing a job at my mums and the house is mainly cob basically mud really. Would I be ok too use this product on that? If so would I need too prime the walls or go straight over with the scratch coat? I’m getting really stressed lol
I have lime on my walls that i need to skim over. I also have normal plasterboard on one wall. Can i use this to skim over the plasterboard or am i better of with regular gypsum?
We had a couple of big refurb jobs a while back using this stuff.Pricey but an absolutely brilliant product.We used to have to put a slurry coat on before the backing coat,have they changed it?
It is great stuff. I never really had to put on a slurry coat on. The walls I tend to do have a good key, so I’ve never felt that they need to put a slurry coat on.
I've only got a small area to cover. Expensive (and would have lots left over) if I bought base layer AND finishing Limelite. How good a final finish could I get just with the basecoat and a steel trowel? It's going to be behind shelving, so super polished finish not needed. Tanx
Hello! I've been watching your video to help me do a similar type of job in my Victorian kitchen. Any tips on how to get the second layer to stick.? Am now going over a layer I did yesterday and bits of it seem to be falling off. Is the mix not wet enough? I'm using cornerstone insulating render. Thanks so much for any advice!! Kate
Hi,I'll be using limelight for the first time in a couple of week,did you skim it in one coat ? Can I skim it the usual way you use multifinish.thanks.
I use one from the builder I was working for. I’m gonna pick one up from Amazon in the next few weeks so I’ll let you know what I think in it when i get it. 👍
Hi Nick I wouldn’t use this with renovating plaster. Limelite have a product that you can use called easy bond. Blue grit would seal the background so it I would effect the breathability.
Hi Anthony I'm just in the process of putting on the renovating plaster upto a meter on the walls that are damp but not on the bay window/door which looks like lime/renovating plaster but has multi on. Can I use the high impact finishing plaster over the top to smooth it all or will it want to fall off. ? Tia Karl
Plus, I've started knocking the old stuff off and it looks like Browning. It was right down to the floor so obviously in conjunction with that the wall would never breathe , Surely?? Thanks
If you had to skim the top half can you skim over the high impact plaster or have you got to use the impact on bottom and skim on top and blend both in or can you skim over the limelight from top all way down?
You can skim over it but it would defeat the point in using the renovating plaster and high impact plaster. If think there is a primer you can get so you could use the high impact all over.
I gotta do same as what you've done hack off the bottom and I've reckonmended the limelight but the whole wall has got to be skimmed so not sure if you cud skim over it
Hi mate, brilliant video! Can you use limelite finishing plaster on top of traditional lime finishing? Got a job some areas back to lath, fella was wanting to keep it lime based to keep house breathing...
all that weight will fall off as there is no mechanical grip, would galvanised mesh not have been a better idea ? also if you make the mix slightly wetter you could even throw the plaster onto the wall.
another nice vid mate, dont suppose you know if this limelite renovating plaster would be allowed in listed buildings that currently have lime plaster that needs repairs? 🤔
Thanks, It all depends on the area you live in. It should be allowed because it’s a modern equivalent, but I know people who’ve upset the people in charge and they made them go traditional lime. It well accredited so should you should be fine, but it’s best to check.
Awesome, thanks. We're deep in a renovation and using limelite. The renovating plaster was great but struggled with the high impact stuff today, felt like it went stiff in the bucket really quickly, and was a bit like philadelphia cheese to work with - not ideal. Any tips on consistency much appreciated!
The weather can play a big part. I’d just say mix it a bit wetter and maybe remix it a bit sooner if it’s pulling in too much. Also spray the wall before putting it on to control some of the suction.
Hi Tom. Limelite is as the manufacturer states itself - made from Portland cement, expanded perlite aggregate, limestone flour and hydrated lime. The reason it goes stiff quickly is because it is Cement. (Exactly what you do not want). So when you mix it with water the cement immediately starts its chemical curing process. If it had no cement then you would have ample time to work the material - Hotlime mixes are workable for days in right conditions. The Lime has zero ability to act like it would in a natural 100% Lime mortar/plaster - as the cement is totally impermeable - meaning Cement traps moisture. Cement is a far harder and stronger binder than Lime and as such it totally stops the Lime from acting how it normally does when used on its own. The Lime in Limelite simply acts as a plasticiser - it in no way allows for any breathability. If you are looking for a product that will set quicker than a Hotlime mix - then go for NHL 2 or 3.5 (NHL 5 is nearly never recommended unless you have strong maritime coastal conditions). The lower the NHL number - the higher the freelime content and greater the breathability factor.
@@paullynch277 Straight from the Limelite website: Limelite Renovating Plaster is breathable, allowing moisture to be released. Improved breathability and less retained moisture helps to avoid mould growth and efflorescence. So what the h*ll are you going on about?
Adam I will take it that you have a basic understanding of the scientific properties that both Portland Cement (Impermeable) and Lime (Permeable) individually have as materials. If not then please research it to understand. What I have stated is fact - it is not a contrived opinion based on assumption - it is a statement based on fact. Now when you combine a strong impermeable material (cement) with an inherently weak but permeable material (Lime) you don't magically end up with a permeable (breathable) material as the manufacturer claims. The Cement completely overrides the ability of the Lime to act as it normally does. The Lime in Limelite cannot facilitate the capillary movement of moisture to be expelled from the render as the cement is impermeable. The Cement encapsulates the Lime - therefore the only thing the Lime does in this product is to act as a Plasticiser. If you have a wall that needs to be renovated then I highly suggest you stay away from Limelite - instead ideally you should use a Traditional Hotlime (or Lime Putty) Mortar/Render, or if you want a more easy to find and use option - use Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL 2.0 or 3.5).
@@paullynch277 I'd guess this plaster is more permeable than cement plaster while less permeable than lime plaster. I have a hard time believing this product is a complete scam as you suggest, sometimes the 'proof is in the pudding'.
Thanks for a very useful video as I am just about to use this. On the 'Limelite' pages they have Easy Bond but I did not see you use this. It is expensive so is it needed or can I do anything else to prepare the wall before applying the renovating plaster ?
Hi Robert, thanks 😊 it all depends on the backing. If you don’t have much key then yes you’ll need to use Easybond. It tends to be use if you’ve got smooth areas that needs a key, But if you’ve got stone, brick or block there should be enough key. Just make sure it’s clean and dust free.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering That's great, thanks for your reply. Need to hack off original plaster and render back to brickwork so should be OK as you say. Thanks again for your help.
Hi, can you let me know how you secure your beads as I could not see that in the video ? Thanks for your help as I am not a plasterer and only do this occasionally so need all the help you can give. Cheers Bob
Looking at Limelite's website they say this "Any paint used must be breathable. Typically, these are water based, trade emulsion or clay/mineral based paints. Avoid vinyl paints." Any idea about more specifics of the water based paints? Obviously, if we can use breathable (non vinyl) emulsions, that'll be a lot cheaper than mineral or clay paint.
Hi Philip, i don’t use pva or Sbr I always make sure the wall has enough key and is clean and sometimes a spray of water and I go from there. I’m not sure using pva would be the best thing to use. Yeah I put on 1 good coat of the high impact plaster on. And after I flatten it I put a bit extra in the areas it needs.
Hi, can you let me know how you secure your beads as I could not see that in the video ? Thanks for your help as I am not a plasterer and only do this occasionally so need all the help you can give. Cheers Bob
Hi Bob, in this job I tacked the beads on with nails. Sometimes I bed them on and sometimes I’ll screw them on as well. It all tends to be on the circumstance of the job. If I’m drying lying walls I will put them on with some dry wall. Sometime I’ll bed them on with skim. I’ve used beadfix tape and that works quite well.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering OK many thanks for your reply and info. I just could get them to stick using the renovation plater so was a bit baffled. Many thanks for being so helpful. Cheers Bob
Hi James, I personally wouldn’t use SBR or Pva. I would control it with water. But it would depends what purpose you want to use the renovating plaster. If you are only using it to stop salts coming through the wall (as in damp proofing) it should be fine to use sbr. But if you want the walls to be breathable you don’t want to seal them with pva or sbr. They do have a primer you can use if you are struggling.
Does the high impact finish benefit from a final trowel up with any plastic trowel? Seen you using the plasiflex then the carta 101 in another vid. Is the carta substantially stiffer than the plasiflex? Thanks
Hi, I do think the plastic trowel leaves a better finish and takes a lot of effort away. The carta 101 is a lot stiffer and means that you can get a better finish earlier, that’s what I’ve found. But you can use a steel trowel to get a good finish but I’ve found it takes a lot of effort.
I have done a wall in my own home with lime putty render on the inside, but the outside wall is rendered in sand and cement and painted over with masonary paint. The only place for water to go is into my home, and there is a darker colour around the base of the wall for that reason. Traditional lime might be the right choice in an old builing, but not when the inner and outer leaf are have a mix of modern and old materials. The lime replaced gypsum plaster, which was a disaster. But I might have been better of with renovating plaster on account of the waterproofing agents in it. Not so breathable, but no water marks.
I don’t think the renovating plaster would make much difference, it’s still a breathable material. It’s still going to highlight where the moisture is coming in from. If your render outside is good You might be better off tanking the inside wall to stop any water coming through. Its a difficult one to judge without seeing all factors.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering I think that renovating plaster is close to 1:1:6, with perlite aggregate instead of sand, waterproofers and salt inhibitors. With trad lime mortar, the water can wick through the wall. With renovating plaster, I wonder if it will just let vapour through.
Hi bud what does the date that’s printed on the bags of lime lite mean is it the date of production or best before Searched up its :;; date of production 👍
I’m using the Ragni angle trowel as my main. And I’ve got some smaller Marshalltown angle trowels for when I only have small margins. I’m really impressed with my Ragni.
Hey bud, for me I only go left to right when you are skimming. If you are using render you go right to left. This is so that you are working into the stuff so you can keep a consistent thickness. Some plasterers will go Left to right when floating but that’s not the way most plasterers are taught.
Great vids although I've been at the game 40 yrs now still like to watch the young ones lol but u do great 👍 I didn't catch the bit wer u said the drill u use I've got the big makita had for yrs but just for a change fancy going cordless keep up with the young trend 😉 but begrudge paying wat dewalt want for ther cordless hiw much is the one u use
Thanks, I’m not as young as you think 😀 The mixer I’m using is the Mikita DUT130. It’s about £250 body only. It’s been a game changer for me. having a cordless just makes everything easier. Ive not tried the dewalt but everyone raves about it. 👍
In this world that seems so full of cowboys, it's great to see a proper craftsperson doing top-notch work. That client was lucky to have hired you. 👍🏻
Your best video yet Anthony. Superbly demonstrated and explained. Thank you.
Cheers bud 👍
Really good work - I’m a ‘ Limelite ‘ user ( your right it’s a great product for old properties ) 👍🏽
I'm just getting to grips with lime plaster, so found this very informative. Thank you for taking the time to share your expertise
Hey your the only other plasterer i know that covers stuff with sheeting lol. Thanks for the video mate
Great informative video Anthony! You make some great content
Anthony, greatly enjoyed the video, have similar to do at an old property inherited.
Great vids you explain plastering and materials so well.The limelight vid is great even how to mix it correctly. Looking forward to your next vid. Well done.
Thanks Nick I’m really appreciate it
Great video and a tidy job! Keep it up👊🏼
Lovely job.... Your doing us North Walians plasterers proud.
Cheers mate, really appreciate that 👍
A true professional and craftsman. Great to see a fellow plasterer take pride In his work 👌
Thanks James, that’s much appreciated 👍
Another great video Anthony nice gear to use the lime lite 👍
Cheers Stuart, much appreciated 👍
your best video yet. Great work.
Thanks buddy, I’m trying 👍
Brilliant videos Anthony
Great workmanship and especially attention to detail dude 👍👍
Reminds me of my damp proofing time. Nightmare hacking off in occupied properties. Good work 👍
Thanks, It all in the prep. 👍
Hi mate great video but as a limelight user myself I have a little tip for you regarding the bubbles, firstly try not to scratch as deep the bubbles come from the plaster not having a key because there is air between the scratch lines and the plaster, Also I tend to do 2 coats on the finish, I use a really tight coat to start to make sure the plaster is pressed into all the scratches and then I use a thicker second coat on top of that and it works wonders for the bubbles.
Perfect, this will help me with my first use of Lime green duro, as guess its not much different from limelight
Awesome video bud. Fanatic information. Would love to see some more lime restoration videos. Nice that some people know what there doing 😂
Thanks a lot. I want to do some more on Lime. But it all depends on the jobs coming in 😀
Proper job that lad. Keep up the good work
Thanks bud 👍
Nice work mate… we use modern lime products too, might give this a go. We have used lime solo, also use cork insulated plasters too. Plastic trowel is a winner with lime 👍🏻
Thanks, I’ve not tried them I’ll have to look them up. It’s so much easier that the traditional lime. I did a old farm house up in traditional lime, it almost killed me. Yeah the plastic trowels become a game changer for me lately 👍
Nice one mate, your going from strength to strength 👍👍
Thanks bud 👍👍
Great video
I really liked this video Anthony. Really good content. Well done bud. 👍💪
Cheers Bud, i Really Appreciate it 😀 I’ve been watching your videos fir a while now. You’re doing great I’ve been enjoying them. It’s great seeing a few of us sharing the knowledge 👌
@@AnthonyParryPlastering thanks for the feedback. Only learning off your videos. I liked this one as it was a bit longer, and had more detailed dialogue on the process. I don’t do much lime, so I liked how you went about this job. Keeping a watch on your 1000 sub target. Getting close. 💪💪💪
Thanks, I think we’re all learning from each other. I love getting tips and tricks from everyone. I’ve been copying you today I’ve been doing sand and cement with my Refina Superflex 3 it’s been in need of breaking it in too.
Yeah it’s not getting far off a 1000 now. You’re not that far off yourself 👍 just gotta keep putting yourself out there 😀
I'm a retired plasterer/drywall finisher in the US. Have enjoyed watching. I am curious about the limelite material as to how it would compare with the USG Structolite here in the US which is a lightweight base coat plaster with crushed volcanic glass aggregate that can be used for thicker applications..
Great video Anthony! Can you advise as to whether using this renovating Limelite would be ok to use and apply to Cob walls instead of a lime putty render? Or would you not use Limelite on Cob Wall?
Hi Anthony love the videos, is limelite something an experienced spread could tackle without lime experience?
I tried to resist but I can't. I have to have my two-penneth worth. Hope you don't mind. I don't use Limelite myself because - although it certainly is an alternative to lime plaster - it is far from an alternative to genuine traditional lime plaster. Limelite is quick and easy but it's not a conservation product. Tarmac have been careful to call it renovating plaster because that doesn't mean anything. Nevertheless, their marketing strategy makes it sound like it possibility might be suitable for older buildings. But the fact is, Conservation Departments won't accept it on listed buildings because it contains cement and isn't breathable. I can see why you used it on a small job like that. And you have actually done a lovely job. I understand that a traditional 3 coat system would make a job like that untenable. I must complement you on that join though, it's not just the product or the right tools which make that happen.
Thank you ! M a purest myself . I love all the wonderful benefits of traditional lime plaster . Takcoat has been a game changer for adhesion
Great video mate. Sound daft but what would happen if you used multifinish over it?
Nice work!! Is it possible to use limelite outside on a 0.8m high garden wall?
Very good
Brilliant bud
hi great video quick question do you need a lime specific paint for finishing if so any recommendations?
should be 100000.brilliant.
Thanks Mark I really appreciate it 👍
Would you wet the brick slightly, take the sting out?
Hi Antony. Should you use the lime light primer or wet the walls with a spray before putting the renovating plaster on?
Hi, Trying this product for the first time. Was wondering if you dampened down the wall before applying or do you tend not to bother. If it had been a larger area would you have done? Would appreciate your guidance. Thanks
Hi Anthony can you use this stuff over sovereign tanking system? Thanks
Great video but I wish you’d shown us how you got the beading and skirting on.
Have you got any videos on how to apply lime plaster (non hydraulic) e.g. hot lime. thanks.
What sort of paddle are you using and why that sort compared to the more traditional paddle.?
I thought it was a bird cage paddle but it does seem to be so when viewing it on it side. Is there an advantage to using this paddle?
Thank you!
Hi Anthony, great video! Do you think Limelite finishing plaster would stick to plaster board, perhaps with Febond Blue Grit on first?
I’m doing a job at my mums and the house is mainly cob basically mud really. Would I be ok too use this product on that? If so would I need too prime the walls or go straight over with the scratch coat? I’m getting really stressed lol
I have lime on my walls that i need to skim over. I also have normal plasterboard on one wall. Can i use this to skim over the plasterboard or am i better of with regular gypsum?
We had a couple of big refurb jobs a while back using this stuff.Pricey but an absolutely brilliant product.We used to have to put a slurry coat on before the backing coat,have they changed it?
It is great stuff. I never really had to put on a slurry coat on. The walls I tend to do have a good key, so I’ve never felt that they need to put a slurry coat on.
A question on the paint, how easy is it to get a breathable paint which will blend in with the non-lime section of wall?
I've only got a small area to cover. Expensive (and would have lots left over) if I bought base layer AND finishing Limelite. How good a final finish could I get just with the basecoat and a steel trowel? It's going to be behind shelving, so super polished finish not needed. Tanx
Looks a good product, I use disposable gloves, lime can burn ya skin, good vid.
Hello! I've been watching your video to help me do a similar type of job in my Victorian kitchen. Any tips on how to get the second layer to stick.? Am now going over a layer I did yesterday and bits of it seem to be falling off. Is the mix not wet enough?
I'm using cornerstone insulating render.
Thanks so much for any advice!!
Kate
New to most of this. Is Limelite similar to Structolite?
Nice and neat
Cheers Billy 👍
Can it be used externally?
Did you use SBR or PVA for the background
Have you tried wiping over with a sponge before trowelling? I find sometimes it helps to stop the finish tearing. Great work by the way. 👍👍
Thank Neil, Yes I have it works a treat when you’re struggling with suction 👍
@@AnthonyParryPlastering yes. I find it also helps to smooth out blisters that sometimes happen. 👍👍
Is limelight breathable i.e. won't cause damp in a drywall ?
Great work, it’s a shame the plaster is so expensive x
Hi,I'll be using limelight for the first time in a couple of week,did you skim it in one coat ? Can I skim it the usual way you use multifinish.thanks.
Great vid there mate where did u get the extractor fan from that’s a must on hacking off 👍👍
I use one from the builder I was working for. I’m gonna pick one up from Amazon in the next few weeks so I’ll let you know what I think in it when i get it. 👍
Aup , can you use lime lite outside 👍🏻
Do you have a pricing for this job?
You shoud stick skertings after finish rending walls
I cant really find a answer to this anywhere but can you use blue grit with this product or does blue grit stop the "breathability"?
Hi Nick I wouldn’t use this with renovating plaster. Limelite have a product that you can use called easy bond. Blue grit would seal the background so it I would effect the breathability.
Hi Anthony
I'm just in the process of putting on the renovating plaster upto a meter on the walls that are damp but not on the bay window/door which looks like lime/renovating plaster but has multi on. Can I use the high impact finishing plaster over the top to smooth it all or will it want to fall off. ?
Tia Karl
Plus, I've started knocking the old stuff off and it looks like Browning. It was right down to the floor so obviously in conjunction with that the wall would never breathe , Surely?? Thanks
If you had to skim the top half can you skim over the high impact plaster or have you got to use the impact on bottom and skim on top and blend both in or can you skim over the limelight from top all way down?
You can skim over it but it would defeat the point in using the renovating plaster and high impact plaster. If think there is a primer you can get so you could use the high impact all over.
I gotta do same as what you've done hack off the bottom and I've reckonmended the limelight but the whole wall has got to be skimmed so not sure if you cud skim over it
Hi mate, brilliant video! Can you use limelite finishing plaster on top of traditional lime finishing? Got a job some areas back to lath, fella was wanting to keep it lime based to keep house breathing...
Hi Scot yes you can, you will need to put the limelite primer on top of the traditional finish first you’d have to look into there specifications.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering okay mate thanks very much I'll look into it, hopefully be able to give it a shot
2 years too late but don't use this product it you want a breathable wall as it has cement in it and is totally unsuitable for heritage work
Thank you for the video. Does anyone know why a lot of plasterers are reluctant to use Limelite?
Because you need a lot of coats and it takes so long!
all that weight will fall off as there is no mechanical grip, would galvanised mesh not have been a better idea ? also if you make the mix slightly wetter you could even throw the plaster onto the wall.
Galvanised thin coats in breathable walls? Not sure about that one
another nice vid mate, dont suppose you know if this limelite renovating plaster would be allowed in listed buildings that currently have lime plaster that needs repairs? 🤔
Thanks, It all depends on the area you live in. It should be allowed because it’s a modern equivalent, but I know people who’ve upset the people in charge and they made them go traditional lime. It well accredited so should you should be fine, but it’s best to check.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering cheers, this could be a great solution for a long standing family problem!! 😎
Why not unscrew the front of the socket to see which way the wires were going.
I know you said you had to add abit more,
Because you needed too, would it not usually have 2 coats, or is it usually just 1?
It’s meant to be one coat on the finish. It’s not like normal plaster. Its what they recommend.
Awesome, thanks. We're deep in a renovation and using limelite. The renovating plaster was great but struggled with the high impact stuff today, felt like it went stiff in the bucket really quickly, and was a bit like philadelphia cheese to work with - not ideal. Any tips on consistency much appreciated!
The weather can play a big part. I’d just say mix it a bit wetter and maybe remix it a bit sooner if it’s pulling in too much. Also spray the wall before putting it on to control some of the suction.
Hi Tom. Limelite is as the manufacturer states itself - made from Portland cement, expanded perlite aggregate, limestone flour and hydrated lime.
The reason it goes stiff quickly is because it is Cement. (Exactly what you do not want). So when you mix it with water the cement immediately starts its chemical curing process.
If it had no cement then you would have ample time to work the material - Hotlime mixes are workable for days in right conditions.
The Lime has zero ability to act like it would in a natural 100% Lime mortar/plaster - as the cement is totally impermeable - meaning Cement traps moisture. Cement is a far harder and stronger binder than Lime and as such it totally stops the Lime from acting how it normally does when used on its own.
The Lime in Limelite simply acts as a plasticiser - it in no way allows for any breathability.
If you are looking for a product that will set quicker than a Hotlime mix - then go for NHL 2 or 3.5 (NHL 5 is nearly never recommended unless you have strong maritime coastal conditions). The lower the NHL number - the higher the freelime content and greater the breathability factor.
@@paullynch277 Straight from the Limelite website: Limelite Renovating Plaster is breathable, allowing moisture to be released. Improved breathability and less retained moisture helps to avoid mould growth and efflorescence.
So what the h*ll are you going on about?
Adam I will take it that you have a basic understanding of the scientific properties that both Portland Cement (Impermeable) and Lime (Permeable) individually have as materials.
If not then please research it to understand.
What I have stated is fact - it is not a contrived opinion based on assumption - it is a statement based on fact.
Now when you combine a strong impermeable material (cement) with an inherently weak but permeable material (Lime) you don't magically end up with a permeable (breathable) material as the manufacturer claims.
The Cement completely overrides the ability of the Lime to act as it normally does. The Lime in Limelite cannot facilitate the capillary movement of moisture to be expelled from the render as the cement is impermeable. The Cement encapsulates the Lime - therefore the only thing the Lime does in this product is to act as a Plasticiser.
If you have a wall that needs to be renovated then I highly suggest you stay away from Limelite - instead ideally you should use a Traditional Hotlime (or Lime Putty) Mortar/Render, or if you want a more easy to find and use option - use Natural Hydraulic Lime (NHL 2.0 or 3.5).
@@paullynch277 I'd guess this plaster is more permeable than cement plaster while less permeable than lime plaster. I have a hard time believing this product is a complete scam as you suggest, sometimes the 'proof is in the pudding'.
Thanks for a very useful video as I am just about to use this. On the 'Limelite' pages they have Easy Bond but I did not see you use this. It is expensive so is it needed or can I do anything else to prepare the wall before applying the renovating plaster ?
Hi Robert, thanks 😊 it all depends on the backing. If you don’t have much key then yes you’ll need to use Easybond. It tends to be use if you’ve got smooth areas that needs a key, But if you’ve got stone, brick or block there should be enough key. Just make sure it’s clean and dust free.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering That's great, thanks for your reply. Need to hack off original plaster and render back to brickwork so should be OK as you say. Thanks again for your help.
Hi, can you let me know how you secure your beads as I could not see that in the video ? Thanks for your help as I am not a plasterer and only do this occasionally so need all the help you can give. Cheers Bob
@@robertpaterson7311 He didn't show that in the video - all part of the job - I was waiting for it too!
Looking at Limelite's website they say this "Any paint used must be breathable. Typically, these are water based, trade emulsion or clay/mineral based paints. Avoid vinyl paints."
Any idea about more specifics of the water based paints? Obviously, if we can use breathable (non vinyl) emulsions, that'll be a lot cheaper than mineral or clay paint.
Will you pva or s.b.r the wall before applying first limelight coat..
And do you only use 1 coat of high impact plaster??
Hi Philip, i don’t use pva or Sbr I always make sure the wall has enough key and is clean and sometimes a spray of water and I go from there. I’m not sure using pva would be the best thing to use.
Yeah I put on 1 good coat of the high impact plaster on. And after I flatten it I put a bit extra in the areas it needs.
Hi, can you let me know how you secure your beads as I could not see that in the video ? Thanks for your help as I am not a plasterer and only do this occasionally so need all the help you can give. Cheers Bob
Hi Bob, in this job I tacked the beads on with nails. Sometimes I bed them on and sometimes I’ll screw them on as well. It all tends to be on the circumstance of the job. If I’m drying lying walls I will put them on with some dry wall. Sometime I’ll bed them on with skim.
I’ve used beadfix tape and that works quite well.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering OK many thanks for your reply and info. I just could get them to stick using the renovation plater so was a bit baffled. Many thanks for being so helpful. Cheers Bob
@@robertpaterson7311 no worries I’m here to try and help 😀
Hi Mate
Can you use Sbr to control the suction before applying the limelite finishing coat or would this be wrong to use being a lime product ?
Hi James, I personally wouldn’t use SBR or Pva. I would control it with water.
But it would depends what purpose you want to use the renovating plaster.
If you are only using it to stop salts coming through the wall (as in damp proofing) it should be fine to use sbr. But if you want the walls to be breathable you don’t want to seal them with pva or sbr.
They do have a primer you can use if you are struggling.
Does the high impact finish benefit from a final trowel up with any plastic trowel? Seen you using the plasiflex then the carta 101 in another vid. Is the carta substantially stiffer than the plasiflex? Thanks
Hi, I do think the plastic trowel leaves a better finish and takes a lot of effort away. The carta 101 is a lot stiffer and means that you can get a better finish earlier, that’s what I’ve found. But you can use a steel trowel to get a good finish but I’ve found it takes a lot of effort.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering thank you for helping out. Have any more limelite vids in the pipeline?
I have done a wall in my own home with lime putty render on the inside, but the outside wall is rendered in sand and cement and painted over with masonary paint. The only place for water to go is into my home, and there is a darker colour around the base of the wall for that reason. Traditional lime might be the right choice in an old builing, but not when the inner and outer leaf are have a mix of modern and old materials.
The lime replaced gypsum plaster, which was a disaster. But I might have been better of with renovating plaster on account of the waterproofing agents in it. Not so breathable, but no water marks.
I don’t think the renovating plaster would make much difference, it’s still a breathable material. It’s still going to highlight where the moisture is coming in from. If your render outside is good
You might be better off tanking the inside wall to stop any water coming through. Its a difficult one to judge without seeing all factors.
@@AnthonyParryPlastering I think that renovating plaster is close to 1:1:6, with perlite aggregate instead of sand, waterproofers and salt inhibitors. With trad lime mortar, the water can wick through the wall. With renovating plaster, I wonder if it will just let vapour through.
@@jauld360 I’m not sure, it’s something I’d have to look more into. I hope you find the right solution there nothing worse than damp coming through
I think Earthborn clay based, breathable paints are recommended for the type of application you're describing.
I’ve heard it the clay based paints. Thanks buddy
Defo, that's what we used. Great colours too
Morning sir Is the limelite just one coat?
And how long it take before you can trawle it for smooth finsh?
Thank you
@@mrhakim493 the renovating plaster is a backing coat. And they have a top coat called high impact finishing plaster.
Hi bud what does the date that’s printed on the bags of lime lite mean is it the date of production or best before
Searched up its :;; date of production 👍
I was just going to look it up myself 👍
@@AnthonyParryPlastering sound ,have u had any issues ? it’s just that cement content is that problematic with no cavity walls
Just wondering what corner trowels you use great video
I’m using the Ragni angle trowel as my main. And I’ve got some smaller Marshalltown angle trowels for when I only have small margins. I’m really impressed with my Ragni.
Don’t whatever you do use this product it contains cement which isn’t breathable, it will not fix the issue of damp
Where can i get lime lite in the us. ?
I’ve no idea, it’s quite hard to get hold of it in the UK. I would contact Tarmac the company that make it direct
Don't right handers do left to right??
Hey bud, for me I only go left to right when you are skimming. If you are using render you go right to left. This is so that you are working into the stuff so you can keep a consistent thickness. Some plasterers will go
Left to right when floating but that’s not the way most plasterers are taught.
I watched this with the analysis from Damp Sam ,,, interesting 😂
Multi with limelite?
You can use multi or board finish in it. It all depends on what you want to achieve.
Tutorial
Why don’t you use lime Pluster? Or is this lime plaster?
Contains 5-40% Portland cement. I would not call this a lime plaster.
lot easier with beads or dryline reveals fost
Great vids although I've been at the game 40 yrs now still like to watch the young ones lol but u do great 👍 I didn't catch the bit wer u said the drill u use I've got the big makita had for yrs but just for a change fancy going cordless keep up with the young trend 😉 but begrudge paying wat dewalt want for ther cordless hiw much is the one u use
Thanks, I’m not as young as you think 😀 The mixer I’m using is the Mikita DUT130. It’s about £250 body only. It’s been a game changer for me. having a cordless just makes everything easier. Ive not tried the dewalt but everyone raves about it. 👍
Yea they rave about it but I don't like the price tag like the price tag if yours
@@philstation335 I’ve got all makita power tools so it was a no brainier for me
Earthborn paint...
Hi mate, where are you based?
I’m in Prestatyn, North Wales bud
@@AnthonyParryPlastering you have any more video on limelite skimming? I find using a speedy skim doesn’t work as good as it would on multi finish
So nice to see someone actually being thoughtful with products rather than this tanking shite.
Limelite contains cement.
Hi bud that’s the problem or is it ,has anybody had issues using it on no cavity walls
Galvanised beads bro. Still gonna rust
Looks like cement. .. hum ..
Limelite still contains cement …….