How To Lime Plaster A Wall FOR BEGINNERS | Full Process START TO FINISH!
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- čas přidán 9. 06. 2023
- In todays video, we’re going to show you how to plaster a wall using Lime plaster. This is extremely important for older buildings because they are built to breath.
A lot of modern day plasters don’t allow walls to breath which means that all the moisture is trapped between the bricks. This can lead to damp issues further down the line which is why it’s so important to use a lime based plaster.
So today, we’re going to walk you through the full process on Lime plastering for beginners. There’s 3 stages to applying and finishing lime plaster:
- Apply the first base coat (Scratch coat)
- Rule it flat so you have a nice base
- Scratch it at 45 degree angle with a crosshatch formation
- Wait 5 days and apply 2nd base coat (Float coat
- Rule it flat and scratch using the Devils Float
- Apply 2 layers of the Top Coat
- Finish and flatten using the Sponge Float
That’s the full process in a nutshell and that’s what we’re going to show you today. There’s a lot to learn but it really isn’t something you should be scared of. It just takes a little practice and more importantly...patience.
The company I used is Ty Mawr. I used their Lime Base Plaster for the 2 base coats and Lime Top Coat (Finish) Plaster. It’s a great product to use and you can guarantee that they use the best quality materials at a reasonable price.
If you like this video then please hit the like and subscribe buttons you can be notified when we realises a new video all about plastering. And feel free to leave a comment, we’d love to hear from you!
Thanks for watching
I’ll see you on the next one.
Blaine Gray
Plastering For Beginners - Jak na to + styl
Mould free, breathable, eco friendly, recyclable….what’s not to like about lime. Great vid, love your work.
That’s the one ☝️
I agree but it is extremely expensive just to apply. 3 visits in 3 weeks for a wall. Mental.
@@frenchgreguk that's lime plasterings biggest downfall unfortunately the drying times between coats.
yeah, good look recycling it with all the synthetic fibers. if you want to do real lime plaster just use lime and sand and throw it on. works quite differently and is not that easy but it will really be recycleable and eco friendly.
..and you can’t put normal paint on it.
My dad started lime plastering in 1958 and i have been doing since 1986 and this is exactly how we do it nice job
Are you based in the US? What products are you using?
Great to actually see a traditionally built property having the correct material applied. The most common cause of damp is due to the use of cement backing coats. I think I'm possibly the only damp specialist who actually uses and recommends lime plastering. I don't however buy pre mixed, I always use hot mix made on site. Works out much cheaper
Would you be able to give me an insight into what you mix and how you go about it please?
I would also like to hear about how you make your mix
4-1 for base coat. That's using quicklime that doubles in size
Look up : don't be dumb about damp
@@roberts.reilly2171 typically 4 parts sand for every 1 part lime
If I'd have known before we plastered the upstairs I'd have gone lime up there too. Luckily I learned about the beneefits of using brethable lime plaster in my 1930s house and used it downstairs. It makes such a difference. Taught myself to plaster to save money. Worth every penny. Don't forget you need to use breathable paints on top of this too. Make sure you rake out the wall cavities If you have them) before you render inside as this makes a hell of a difference too! House is som much drier and warmer downstairs.
I live in a 1970 bungalow. I need to re plaster the whole place, so I was thinking about doing it in lime so, that I can lime wash the walls. So when the kids make a mess, I don't have to pay crazy prices for paint and it absorbs co2
@@craiggamble4431breatheable paints arent cheap unfortunatly. Can easily be 100 for a big tin of paint. I got one for my living room and other room ceiling total was 3 cans about 300 pound almost !
Good video
Same in London 90percent of the period property’s have been destroyed by cement , I constantly get called about damp caused by cement pointing and render , blocked or rendered over air bricks , as soon as the walls are stripped of the cement and pointed and adequate ventilation installed it literally goes away within weeks
Great video Blaine amazing how many guys are afraid of lime plaster work.
I live and work on Dartmoor and lime plastering is 75% of my work, we are still using horse hair in the scratch coat here and still nailing laths to the stud work😂 far more satisfying than new build work.
That’s amazing mate. Beautiful area by the way - loved Dartmoor! And you are right, it’s very satisfying. Hopefully get some more work but it’s the price that’s the problem…a lot of people don’t go for it despite advising it.
I’ve just bought a solid stone house in Chawleigh and need a plasterer - are you available?
@@adamchant2645 i dont know how to send you my contact details without it been deleted
Serious question - where do you get the horse hair?
@@bobbyreilly5394
i buy the mortar with it aready in, or you can buy it seperate in by the bucket load at Mike Wye Lime Devon
I was a plasterer for close to 30 years before changing careers. Although time served, I’ve never touched sand and lime.
I have now bought a circa 1800s listed building and have some damp spots. I will be looking to redo these to tackle the damp. Your videos and advice are spot on and serve as a welcome refresher to me revisiting my old trade.
Thank you.
Trust me youl thank yourself forever doing so. Before we had gutter leak down walls for time and not notice it until plaster fell off and skirting rotted out ! So replastered in lime fixed gutter changed skirting sadly and now problem solved warm dry wall and no damp !
Brilliant, thanks for the video! I have a 1930s house that has lime plaster in places and some gypsum mixed. It’s given me some inspiration to take the walls back to bare brick and try lime!
Same!
Absolutely brilliant video - as a total newbie, with an old house, I did a course at Ty Mawr on lime plastering, and your video is a great refresher. Totally agree their premixed limes are the best to go with - especially if you're just starting out and haven't got a clue like me. Thank you for this!
I bought your course around gypsum based plastering before realising I need to use lime. reallyR appreciate you covering more of the plastering spectrum like this. Nice one!
Excellent tutorial! I have a few small areas of wall to repair / replaster and watching this has left me feeling confident I can do a good job 👍
Doing 2 lime plaster jobs for clients in the Cotswolds. Both listed buildings and one I am using cornerstone insulation, bedded onto lath (for a breathable gap) on the inside and removing bonding and multi that's sucked in the water from the walls. There are loads of properties that have modern products but should have had a lime render and lime plaster. That includes the external pointing which is patched in 3/1 mix of sand and cement and not 1 part NHL 3.5 lime and 2 parts sharp and half soft sand mix. You can buy it pre mixed but I mix it myself. Listed stone/slate buildings you can only use lime putty, depends on the job. Keep up your videos, they are a great watch. Si
Set yourself up as a damp proofing company. You will be taking work from the chemical brigade and doing the right thing for customer and the property.
This is the tutorial I have been waiting for from this channel. 👍
Finally a video on this from one of you guys that explains well to somebody who dosent have experience and dosent have somebody with experience to ask
Cheers
Thanks mate, much appreciated! Glad to hear you found it useful 👍
Great work. Information kept simple. Thank you.
Superb tutorial, you keep it simple to follow. Lot of seasoned lime spreads can really make a wonderful material so off-putting. Thumbs up!
Great stuff! Thanks for the encouragement. Sounds like we need more natural products on our walls and people who aren't afraid to try and use them!... I'm going for lime but was a bit nervous. This video has helped enormously. Many thanks.
Thanks for the demo.
I loved your video and thank you for the encouragement. As of yet, I haven't found anyone who says that we could do this. Like anything else, we just need to do it to get good at it. Again, thank you!!
Great vid. I actually did a lime plastering course and it followed what you did. I’ve found lime much easier to work with than gypsum because I have time to get it on and flatten. You’re spot on with two base coats at around the 9-10mm mark. On my course some people applied it too thickly and next day when we came back theirs had cracked. However, because it takes days to dry properly that wasn’t an issue and using a float it was just re-worked and the cracks cleared up. Lime seems to be very forgiving in that respect. Great vid.
Thanks mate, glad it lined up with your course. Very true about it being forgiving…it’s never too late to fix an issue with Lime.
Thanks for watching pal 👍
Excellent work
You’ve made that look easy. Fancy a holiday in France???!!!
that was informative 🎉
Brilliant bud 💪🏻💪🏻
Cheers pal!
Alright Blaine, hope you're good. I think with this video you've made it really easy for a beginner to use this product 👌
I've never used it but it looks like a really nice product to work with actually.
I built out a step and did my first bit of rendering 2 weeks ago with the help of your garden step video.
Was going to send you some pics on WhatsApp but i forgot. It came out really nice actually 😀
You sir are brilliant at your job.
Thank you matey!
Perfect guide mate
Cheers matey
Great work 👍
Thank you
You really are the muts nuts in the plastering world. I applaud you.
Thanks mate. I really appreciate that 👍
Mate 8.35 you had me cracking up pulling one off 😂 brilliant vid as usual thank you!
😂😂😂
Not done any lime work for about 4 years, but really enjoyed using it when i did, its a different product , with different techniques to gypsum, but if you do your research before you start then it shouldnt be too daunting. Theres a lot to learn! Get the right advice from the lime suppliers on what products to use, and where to use them. The hardest thing to get used to for most gypsum plasterers is the time between coats, it takes some getting used to. As somebody else suggested though definitely wear the gloves at least, that stuff is brutal.
Just waiting now for the lime experts to catch this video, ill be back to read the comments😂. Good video Blaine, keep em coming👍
Very true, it’s totally different but I always enjoy using it. However, I think the fundamentals are the same. Keep your costs to a maximum of 10mm, apply lots of pressure, rule flat and just respect the waiting times.
The timings are totally different though. Very forgiving unlike Gypsum which is nice. Wish me luck with the comments and thanks for watching 😂
@@PlasteringForBeginners every day is a school day, I've been plastering 33 years, still always something new to learn. I think unless your customers are clued up, the hardest thing is convincing them how long a lime job can take, and the extra costs involved, we know the benefits of lime especially on older properties, but convincing the customers is another matter, most just want quickest/ cheapest option. Good luck 👍
@@HappyTyke25 how much more expensive is it to use lime ?
@@memecoinmafia2732 every job is individual, so hard to say. It's mainly because of the extra time involved that the cost rises, although I do think lime materials are a bit more expensive than gypsum etc. Maybe someone who uses lime more than I do can help you.
The benefits of using lime is almost always worth the extra cost over time though, especially on older properties that would probably have been plastered with lime originally. It allows a property to breathe like it should. Which is better for damp issues.
Appreciate the information
Any time! Thanks for watching
Brilliant tutorial 👏👏👏👏👏
Thank you!
No Worries Man, Keep up the Great content 👍
Nice work mate
Cheers pal!
Bang on . I've always done a minimum of 4 day's between coats
Cheers pal 👍👍
Top video. I was hoping you might do a video on lime plastering oneday. Cheers
Thanks for watching mate
The usual advice for lime plastering or rendering is to apply a progressively weaker mix on successive coats. Does the bagged lime putty product that you used in the video follow that or is it of the same strength throughout? I guess that it is more important when applying external render for weather and frost resistance rather than internal situation you are plastering. The biggest drawback I've found is the drying/setting time but it is much better on stonework or soft brickwork that you find on "heritage" buildings. Thanks for your video series Blaine, they have helped me a heck of a lot in the various jobs I've had on my property in South Cumbria.
You can use the same material,so long as it's not stronger.
Beat lime plastering video on CZcams
Love your videos, really helpful content.
I don’t seem to be able to find anywhere that delivers lime plaster. Do you think OCR could be used instead on internal red brick and breeze blocks?
Nice mr
Good lad
I really want to learn more about lime plastering . Fed up with hardwall / multi
Liking it.
Really good tutorial. Think there’s just one thing missing… You forgot to mention about wetting the wall down every day when waiting to cure between coats to aid in carbonation
Hi mate love your videos iv got a whole house to plaster the exterior internal walls as its all been gypsum and soaking wet. Do you have any advice ? Im thinking of using a woodfibre insulation board and lime plaster on top would that be ok ?
Great job. Would love to see some external lime rendering!
I’ll film it if I ever get a chance pal 👍
Is the hemp in hemp and lime just a substitute for horsehair or fibres? I was looking at dot and dab plasterboard but as there are gaps between brick and plasterboard, its not as good to get an air tight house. I think lime plaster might be the best for brick/block houses. Great video.
If you would like to apply this lime render to an old Bath Ashlar Block that has been painted with an emulsion paint, what product would you use to stabilise / seal the wall as I presume you would not want to kick up dust to remove the paint?
Many thanks
Nice video mate; I felt excited when I saw you took a crack (no pun intended) at lime plastering; thanks a lot for your perspective. I did wonder about one thing though: is there a reason why you refrain from using a spatula (speed skim) to give the finish coat a first flattening?
Brand new to this, and I've put on my first scratch coat before finding this excellent tutorial. I haven't scored the wall anywhere near as much as you. Do you think I'm heading for trouble with the subsequent coats?
wow, I just commented on your most recent video how I would like to see you applying lime plaster and this appears,,,,I will be taking the more traditional route of adding horse hair, which is going to be more challenging than using a pre-mix
A great overview but it has left me nervous!
I have never plastered anything before but am going to give this a go. We're renovating an old house so need to use lime based product. I have an area which is accessible and with a reasonably stable surface to work on.
The real goal is to plaster my attic walls, the existing surface is very crumbly, to the point where I could most likely brush forever and not improve the surface at all. I clearly need to stabilise the wall before working on it. Any suggestions?
Hi Blaine, great videos! I’m going to try this today. How
long do you mix the water and lime plaster for?
I'm so glad you have covered lime plastering. Its something nobody has taught me and I've wanted to learn. Really useful for old houses. Is there an insulating version with cork or some other material?
Glad you found it useful mate. Not sure to be honest, I’ve personally never seen it but it’s probably out there as you say…I’ll try and look into it for the future 👍
czcams.com/video/rqH7mO-myak/video.html - Diathonite Cork insulated plaster video here on CZcams.
There is a ecocork lime plaster but you will get a better thermal value using wool-wood boards with a lime plaster on top
Hemp shiv and perlite
Good content.
Ive got a 1935 bungalow with no cavity wall.
All walls lime. Im renovating so took it all off as some of it had blown.
I initially wanted lime back on but got told too expensive. So gave in to gypsum.
Builders dot and dab ensuite. Week later theres mould on plasterboard. Dot n dab transferred moisture from the wall into the plasterboard. The house is vacant so i do know moisture levels will be high.....as the bungalow is very cold.
Do you think i should revert back to my original plan and go lime?
This process of using lime is there anytime you would use a more breathable plasterboard than gypsum?
Appreciate your comments
Thanks
Was the top coat a different product from the original premix product? Or did you just use more water and mix it up longer? Thanks.
I do wish more tradesman would take up lime plastering
Like your video
Thank you!
i would love to put this on my home, could I just put this right onto the existing siding?
Do you use the same mix for the base and finish coats? Just a difference in water amounts? Thank you!
How do you identify lime plaster on a wall, I have some plastering to do in my house and the previous plasterer i hired used gypsum for a skim coat and since then there has been a damp patch where he repaired the wall, i think it might be lime underneath as the base coat but am not sure
Hi I take it the second base is the same product as the base coat ? Is the top coat different again
Great video. How many bags did you use on that area, for each of the stages? Can lime be applied over concrete render or is that just a waste of time? Thanks.
We have a bathroom with plaster walls, how do we take the old plastic tiles off and put on ceramic tiles?
Hi, great video! Are you able to recommend a different brand that i could maybe get from Wickes? Ty Mawr is nowhere near me and as i only want a 1 bag to try their postage delivery charge is quite expensive for me
Hi, im about to use the same materials as in your video to lime plaster a brick wall (fireplace wall) to prevent damp after a damp solution had been used on the walls (dryzone dryshield cream)
However i am only going 1 meter up the wall where i have removed the gypsum plaster..... can lime plaster be joined to a gypsum plastered wall using scrim tape or similar
Also how many bags of the lime plaster you are using would you recommend for a 7m2 coverage
Stupid question… we have bought a log cabin and the kitchen has faux brick backsplash as well as above cabinets. I would love to give the kitchen walls that old world plaster wall look as it will go well with the cabin log walls, and ceiling. Should I just totally remove the faux brick paneling rather than skim over it? Thank you for your help!
A quick question..I have 10 bags of nhl 3.5 that are about 8 years old, they are still sealed..can i still use them?
I did notice that the final coat's color is more white. Did you add color to the mix?.
How would you lime plaster an uneven stone-built masonry wall, which has had the old (non-breathable) cement render removed? Would you potentially apply a third base coat of lime plaster, to help build it out? Really enjoyed this video, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge and skills.
So Blaine are you using lime and sand for all 3 coats of plaster ie 1st coat lime and rough sand 2nd coat lime & finer graded sand & final skim coat lime and even finer sand????? thanks for any info great video David.
That's how I did my walls as a DIY job. Did you find that the bottom of the wall dried slower than the top? Water runs downhill! Anyway, great to see you using lime.
It was pretty consistent to be fair but I didn’t over soak the walls. Thanks for watching my friend, hope you’re well
do you ever add pva to the wall and mix ?
I’m new to plastering. Is it a good idea to smooth off the sharp corners if you’re using a brand new trowel?
Yeah, I do matey!
Would adding olive oil soap at the end, strengthen it?
Roughly how many days from start to finish to do all these layers please? Great video
Hi mate where do you the product from.
Blaine my bricks are thirsty as hell, im soaking with like 5L per sqm, is that going to cause me problems? Any more tips anyone? I know theres primer products out there but is soaking ok?
Is it more expensive for lime plastering?. do you have to remove the gypsum first and take back to bare brick
👊🏾👍🏿👍🏿Blaine
👍👍👍
HELP, i hope someone from the comments or you the owner of this video can assist me. Its the first i am seeing concrete blocks being covered with lime and i am happy cause NOWHERE else on youtube has it. I live in Jamaica and we use concrete blocks steel and cement but i want to use lime plaster instead of cement. Please i beg whats the simplest but correct procedure lol. Do i prime the blocks first? Or do i just mix the lime putty with sand to make the mortor and plaster the walls in two coats then add the smooth plaster without the sand. After the base coat dries do i need to prime it before adding the plaster with the colorant?
Next question for the bathroom and wet areas for the tadelakt technique do i really need to use the stone to rub it or i can just seal it with the special soap and leave it to dry so it can become waterproof.
If i use regular cement for the base coat and want to do a lime wash technique for the paint i know i have to prime the walls then but do i need to add that smooth limd plaster first IF i am only going to lime wash paint the area?
A lot of these things are confusing to me and i am doing many research but not everything is clear. HELP
Hi Blaine🙋 is there the cost gap between 6:1:1 plaster and this?
Sorry what do you mean mate?? Do you mean sand cement compared to Lime plaster?
Can you explain how to mix lime from scratch please as there are many people who do not want to buy the more expensive ready mixed mortar.
How do you deal with when the plaster is set at the top and still wet at the bottom?
Hi Blaine, great work as always. Sorry I'm in a different subject now, do you know how to slow setting time down? I have a large plasterboarded ceiling to do and the weather isn't in my side, just wondered if you had any tricks up your sleeve. Cheers
Rich
An additive called Xtra time. Gives about an hour.
Or do a running gauge. Stop halfway. Before you final trowel the 1st half. Whack the second have on. Work the joint while still green. You'll find it a lot easier doing big areas once you suss it out
Awesome, thanks neville.
I have seen that extra time stuff but I start the job Tommorrow and I can't find anywhere on the Isle of Wight that sells it lol, will give your method a go, cheers 👍
@@richardpowell9238 Hi. If you can get to a Travis Perkins, they sell Extratime there. It's been a life saver for me on ceilings in the past.
Failing that you could always give cream of tartar a try 🤷♀️
If you can't add a retarder though, what Neville suggested would help you a lot.
Thank you Tara, yes there's one in Ryde I will try get there first thing, I've heard of tartar but didn't know if someone was having a laugh 😂, if I plaster over artex I do a 50/50 mix bondi g and multi that usually slows that down but don't know how bonding will react with plasterboard
@@richardpowell9238 No worries. Many spreads used tartar back in the day but I know some people do still use it if they have nothing else. I think it's about a lid full to a bag but i could be wrong.
Bonding is fine on plasterboard but make sure the boards are in good nick. Sometimes to be on the safe side you'll need to PVA the boards if they've been up a while.
Also, have you tried using a sponge float when you're in trouble? They can help a lot when you're chasing your tail because it brings the plaster back to life for a bit giving you that bit of extra time.
Curious to know how many bags of each basecoat and finsh coat you used on that wall. I have a simular size wall and can see where they tell what one bag covers. Great video
measure your wall: cm2 or m2. Then multiply times however thick your plaster will be. Then divide by 4 if you are using 1 part lime to 3 parts sand. Round up as your bags will typically be 20kg -25kg. You can add the extra lime to heavy clay soils or your garden if needed.
I've been told to "throw" the plaster to the wall by my local NHL supplier/manufacturer (Målarkalk). And when I follow their instructions and water ratio the consistency is a lot thicker and not runny, so it's not possible to work it like you do. Do you know why it's so different? I am based in Sweden so maybe the traditions are different. Otherwise it's pretty similar.
for your 2 base layers, you said 9mm thick. Was that 9mm each base coat or combined?
That's what's known as lime putty, or slaked lime,. As Bert said who taught me, " punch it in son". RIP Bert.
👍👍
Where did you purchase the lime plaster from struggling to find the same product
It's on the bag
How do you deal with air bubbles?
👍👍👍👍
If anyone wants to know. It's a mix of 5 to 2 plus hair and sand of your choice. Normally for most applications you'd use NHL 3.5. also. Don't do a Blane! Wear gloves and goggles. So you don't lose your hands or eyes. Get this in your peeper you'll be begging the hospital to take them out! He doesn't do much of this.
Dob it out. Wet it daily. Wait.
Base, with mesh if you're cheeky. Water daily. Wait 5 weeks.
Second coat, float, devil float, wet daily and wait 5 weeks.
Putty coat, SpongeBob square float. Wet lightly.
Pure lime calcium putty as the final coat just to fill the tiny imperfections.
Distemper
Great advice, thank you. You wait 5 weeks! Why do you wait so long then? I’m intrigued? Thanks for sharing 👍
@@PlasteringForBeginners gotta cure, think I put it on a lot thicker than what you did. Also I don't use pre mixed. Just got more control if you mix it yourself. Was always told 6 weeks between coats. Bit less in summer but you gotta keep it hydrated due. You don't want it to dry. It won't work of it just drys out. If you want it to stay there a few hundred years you gotta give it time to cure. Not dry. Same with pointing! Cover it and keep it out of the wind if you're rendering outside. If it dries too fast it developed calcite and that's not going to let water out making it a pointless exercise. If you are pointing you scratch the calcite off sometimes the same day but you always wet it up and cover. Don't have to cover the render inside but you do have to keep the wind off it. Lime is time. It's the reason no one bothers with it much. Personally I think it is a fantastic product. If you wanna speed up the cure you add ash as a pozzolan. The old guys knew what they were about. New building are gash planned obsolescence in the building trade. Shame really.
Simply the best material: been around for centuries and proven to be a perfect fit for old and new builders alike.
However, sadly, construction work is all about speed these days, and lime plaster takes time to cure, which nobody is willing to accept. Hence we are willing to accept a largely inferior material like gypsum.
Good video but lead by example and wear safety glasses as lime burns .
Why is it right to left for rendering? Serious question mate, not criticism 👍🏻
It's so you're working / pressing into the last stroke of plaster, rather than away from it. Helps to bind it together and less falls off the wall at the end of each stroke.
I’ve just had mine done professionally, paid 5k for 4.5 walls.. he did it with lime putty and bag mix (?) and did the creamy cost first and left me with the darker mix as the top coat. It’s all cracked already. No come back and a 10 year loan to pay the 5k off 😢
Sounds like they didn't know what they were doing. I'd consider redoing yourself. Lots of time cost but materials would be about £4-500
That's awful to hear! Sounds like the suction wasn't controlled well enough. Trading standards? Really hope you get your money back.
Base coats are too thick.😊
why wouldn't you make your own lime plaster from scratch so we can learn something? everyone is not from England and don't have access to these products plus they usually are expensive