Engine "Ghost Cranks" (Starter Motor Stuck ON) 1965 Shelby Cobra 454 Big Block
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- čas přidán 8. 05. 2024
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Thermostat works. Saw it open at 180 degrees via the temperature gauge. Rough cold start could be a bad dashpot on the carb. The starter seems to be drawing too much current judging by the intermittent behaviour so I think you are good with the replacement there. The lack of brake fluid leakage at any point in the brake system doesn't suggest bad master cylinders. I'm skeptical that that will fix your problem with fluid level. I'd be more likely to suspect dried out seals on the caliper pistons and slow leakage at those sites. I suspect that someone has hot wired the engine fans as a means of limiting the overheating. I agree with your one commenter on the timing being a potential cause of the overheating. The custom exhaust could also be an issue with engine temp. The carbs could also be running lean which can also cause overheating.
With the crap battery it's hard to be sure but the hard cranking sounded like the timing was off. I cringed at the brake cleaner being dumped down it. He knows it runs so it's either a fuel supply problem or a carb problem. Scoring the cylinder walls with brake cleaner isn't going to give an answer to the problem. When he got it running maybe it was the video sound but it seemed real sluggish and not snappy in response. Anyone who has ever ran a four barrel carb without an air cleaner knows that the thottling one up is uncomfortable to the ears. That 454 should be deafening . Turning up the idle isn't a fix. It's like turning the radio to fix a noise. It was hard watching this.
@@CraigGrant-sh3in The whole car is a calamity, wiring issues from front to back, very probable poor grounding, the rad is most likely too small and or it sits below the engine, this can cause an air bubble issue trapped not allowing sufficient amount of coolant to circulate, ( seen this before) may have the wrong size thermostat as well. The electric fan relay is not working cutting in /out as it should / cfm of the fans may not be suitable . The carb has fuel supply issues, combination of mechanical / electric pump... The timing may be off a few degrees causing irregular cranking or it has a weak starter. There is a parasitic draw when the key is off. This car was not professionally built from the word go and most likely had issues from day 1. I don't think this car ever had a proper shakedown.
This car basically needs a total rebuild of all wiring / cooling / fuel and braking systems.
I am not a fan and know of at least 3 people who suffered bad burns from side pipes, either from getting out or reaching in the car. One victim was a woman who burned the backs of both her legs /calf's getting out of a 78 corvette.
@@CraigGrant-sh3in My first thought was ignition timing also. Timing to far advanced will cause hard starting and overheating.
Why would any one take a ford body like this and stuff a vette inside it ? Carrol Shelby would be scratching his head for sure on this one ! Nice looking body , but this 454 set up and drive train seems to be a mess . Maybe this guy should raise the body , buy a new frame , a nice ford motor , new tranny and rear end and start over . My personal opinion .
@edwardrobb4682 because even ford guys know chevy is the best
Button on cabin floor is a foot operated switch for headlights high/low beam. I had one in a car many many years ago.
Showing my age now.
Yep! When I was a kid we called that button a dam switch. Not sure where that came from tho
I'm old I guess. I've had several cars with dimmer switches.
I have a’70 Challenger and’78 Bronco with the floor mounted high/low switch. They tend to wear out and corrode mounted on the floor.
Knew what the button was right away. Actually got confused on how to turn on the brights when they moved it to the turn signal cluster.😁
I had many old cars with the floor dimmer switch. I was working on cars before Ray was pooping diapers. LoL
To who ever installed/ altered/modified the wiring, steering column, rear lights ect. I am pleased to see the old quote " No job is to small to bodge" is still alive and kicking.
Maybe do a "clearance grind" on the brake arm so it doesn't need grease...
Old school like me. Dimmer switch on the floor,old school carburetor 😅😂 love it lol
Shelby Cobra: "Your fancy OBD-II scan tools are useless, Jedi!"
😂
I wanted to challenge ray, no fancy computers for him!
Like when your teacher tells you no calculators allowed on the math test. Gotta do it the old fashioned way lol
@@redhat_maveric3633 My 1986 Chevy C-10 Square Body pickup would also provide Ray a no-computers challenge.
Those builds are usually horrendous. Last one I did was a full on painless wiring kit. Customer came in with a laundry list of issues. After looking at the car I found wiring melted together, in line fuses in random places under the car, and repurposed Caprice fuse block with original Chevy wiring. I said to the customer no way Ray! After showing the problems to them I got the go ahead to redo it. They've been enjoying the car ever since. Very long undertaking though.
These kit cars are almost always built by guys with more money than brains. They put all their time and money into body work and paint before they're anywhere near getting the mechanical stuff sorted.
The hot start issue may be because the timing is too high. Maybe put a light on it. Excessive timing will also cause overheating
I was about to post this. It sounds a lot like high timing. I don’t think Ray is versed too well in old school carburetors and timing not done by a computer. Not his fault, not many of this type of car shows up at the shop.
Good time to teach these young uns some old school timing practices.
I didn’t notice, does this have a distributor, or a solid state ignition? Sometimes hard to know without popping the cap.
Was also a common problem of heat soak in the starter
@@ken2touDistributor hei
Sounds like its more then 30 degrees of timing. Around 14 would be prefered at crank/idle and 32-34 at increased rpm. My experience is the other way around, advanced timing at idle or when crusing at highway speed decreases engine temps. retarted timing builds heat at idle and loads of heat when driving. Ls engines for example target 45-55 degrees of timing at cruise speed with low tps value. My guess is that this cobra is running to much advanced timing at cranking and idle and running lean which will make it run hot. id check if the vacuum advance on the hei distributor is working and that the mechanical advance is moving freely and not rusted shut or physically blocked.
In 1976, when I got on a highway patrol police department, the cars had TWO dimmer switches mounted on the floor close together. One was the dimmer, the other was for the old high speed siren! The siren took a while to spool up, and a while to spool down. We had to apply the siren, and periodically release the switch. Ancient stuff!
On that starter, pull the 3 screws out of that solenoid cover. Underneath is the solenoid plunger and it will fall right out in your hand. Then there are two L-shaped contactors that you can replace. Typically one will burn down faster than the other and create a bad connection when the plunger pulls in. It's either burned and sticking (most likely) or it may have a broken spring on the plunger causing it to run when it shouldn't. I used to fix these gear reduction starters on Toyotas back in the 80's and 90's for around $5-10 with a new plunger and two contacts. Easy 10 minute fix.
Yep, done a couple myself.
Good luck finding those parts
@@TheJcrandazzo if you cant find em then make em. for a kit this busted up that'll happen more than once
wow....great knowledge sharing and reveal.....you are slauted.....great info...
I have worked on so many of these style engines, just watching the video, I started smelling gas. 😂😂😂. The crane brainium is an amazing thing. Lmao!
First, the button on the floor is the headlight dimmer switch. The one thing I noticed is that the accelerator pump didn't seem to be doing much. I might have missed it doing its job, but many old carbs like that you could see the fuel being pumped in. That would explain the needing brake clean to start it. We used to pump the gas a time or two to start it. Also, when you were giving throttle the reaction of the engine just seemed to act like lack of accelerator pump.
On the right track my friend!
This is correct...one or two full pumps, then turn the key......Dodges/Plymouth est. Chevies always started right away....but maybe not a 427.....
The choke butterfly was wide open too
The radiator backwards tilt with clear ability for the incoming air at speed allows the majority of the airflow to BYPASS the radiator. it needs a panel at the top of the radiator to close the top tank to body panel gap. Major design fail.
Whoa, there have been too many times when pulling a sticky thermostat saved me. Cars might overheat without them but a stuck closed thermostat will alaways need removing. Modern failsafe thermostat are an exception.
The shifter has a reverse lockout. Lift the shifter and it goes into park. This makes it legal for racetracks.
What a heck job! All you have to know is look at the secondary wiring routing. Couldn't get much sloppier than that. Nice tail lights. What did they assemble them with super glue? How do you ruin a 1965 Cobra replica? Put it on a Chevrolet chassis with a big block. What a piece of crap!
Loved the grease on the side of the steering column to let the brake pedal slide by....sheesh. Kluge!!
At last a car that I understand how everything works! Yeah! Thanks for this post!
Those old Big Blocks like having the bypass hose installed on the water pump up to the intake manifold. This engine has the ports plugged. And take the ground cable off the block and check everything for clean connection.
Good point. I once plugged the heater hose ports on my SB Chevelle (because I didn't care about no stupid heater) and the temp would repeatedly go a little high, then noticeably cool off as the thermostat opened, instead of just settling in at a steady temp.
It's nice to see an older car on the channel.
yesss! we wanna see real cars that have real problems, other than computer based problems, or just failing (newer) parts......oh, wel.....
I like the grease mod on the steering shaft brake pedal connection 😊
I love old school cars like this I was born in 1954 so I grew up in the muscle car days.
Those Chevy big blocks take a lot of amps to crank over especially when hot.
I would recommend an aftermarket high performance starter and a heat shield over the starter. Those starters get heat soaked and draw a lot of amps to turn over. I would add a second battery and a large alternator and tie both batteries together.
Check timing like the other commenter
😊I would dump this thing.😊
You are right. I remember my old 68 SS 396 Chevelle suffered from that.
Smart Ideas here.....Powerful and well juiced batteries, in series.....are the cables adequate in size/capacity?????
That device on the floor, that's the cover for the blinker fluid fill port.... LMAO
No it isnt ..Its the seat eject button
ROTFLMAO!!!!
Tailight pushrod switch
@@user-ep6ri8sj4t how about, muffler bearing grease zerk port.... LMAO
My dad used to call it the original idiot light.✌️
your statement about thermostats is totally correct,some engines have a two stage thermostat.if you take the thermostat out the water takes the path of least resistance so wont go to the radiator
Ray.2nd and 3rd gen corvette calipers are notoriously known for pitting and leaking .When they rebuild them.They sleeve them with a stainless steel sleeve.
I'm hoping you do a part two if you find the parts you need. A car like this would have definitely been a perfect project for my husband. He loved the mystery of diagnosis and restoring a beautiful piece of machinery back to full health.
How about a part 3 and 4? The world is his oyster with this!
Nice to see Ray going back old school.
I asked him and he said yes, very excited!
Back to basics. Is only way to check for problems with car like that. Good Job
Nice to see an old school vehicle. Miss seeing these type of cars.
Go over to motor trend & watch Roadkill if you like old vehicles.
Wow Ray, easily my favorite car you’ve had on your channel so far. Sorry Delorean.
I told him people would love to see it!
This was a fun one to watch Ray. I watch plenty of other CZcamsrs that do older carbureted engine vehicles. But the majority do a “good enough for the girls we go with” kind of mentality. Whereas you do quality paid repair, so it’s a fun intersection of giving old parts great attention.
I see so many misinformed folks here, the Cobra was an English car that Shelby realized could be a world beater if mated with American V8 engines. He initially approached GM for V8's but the brass had dictated the Corvette as the only sports car platform they would support. Shelby then approached Ford who saw immediately the potential for putting one over on GM, which they did. Ford never produced this car per se, but did support Shelby and his efforts. There are a lot of myths surrounding the Cobra, the time for the zero to 100 back to zero one for starters. Truly a great car and fast as the devil, this one with a 454 is probably reasonably as fast as a real '67 with the big Ford 427 V8 depending on how many ponies it's putting out, but the 427 would have had racing parts and this one is obviously more streetable.
That was a popular method in the 60's. If you've seen the Get Smart TV series, Agent 86 drove several British cars, starting with the Singer (powered by a Ford V8), a Jensen Interceptor, and an Opel. The Singer was my favorite, of course, but the Jensen had a Ford/AMC combination look to it that worked for me.
@@kevinyancey958 Agent 86 rolls up in a Sunbeam Tiger, a Sunbeam (Hillman) Alpine fitted with a Ford V8 not a Singer. An interesting car where the steering column went through the fan belt (in RH drive vehicles anyway) requiring the steering columne to be disassembled to change the belt.
@@robames1293 In 1975 my neighbor had a Tiger with a 289 Ford engine.
He put a lot of miles on it driving to Leadville Colorado to work at the molybdenum mine.
Ya, AC motor company is British. Shelby started with a 260 v8 I believe, then a 289 and of course everybody knows the 427s. If memory serves me, isn't the shifter handle from a mustang just mounted backward so it leans tward the front instead of the back ?
@@criticaltemperature3343 I believe you are right, The shifter (gear lever) would have been behind the driver and linkages would have had to be made.
that is a proper dimmer switch
'lipstick on a pig' lol. looks super cool on the outside, everything else is a total mess.
Same though that went through my head about 1/4 the way into the video.
Most all kit cars are mess.
This content that mixes both mechanical and electrical repairs is actually pretty interesting!
Edit: And god damn that's a pretty car. Gotta give you it you americans, during WW2 you had beautiful and deadly battleships, and sexy cars during the '60s
Hell of a nice project car lol
When I was in high school (in the 60's), I knew someone that bought an original 454 Cobra new. If I remember correctly, it cost about $6000. That was then most average new cars were selling for about $2000. I lost track of him long ago, but it would have been a great retirement investment.
Original cobras in the sixties ran ford 427's or early ones ran 289 small blocks , 454 is general motors
@@tonyclark6055 Sorry, you are correct. It was a 427 and almost 60 years ago. Senior moment. In the 80's, I had a '67 Chevelle that I drag raced. That had a 454 in it.
I can tell Ray really wants to drive this car.
But can he fit?
Sounds like timing to high
Ray BURNS to take this on the road and to open up the 4bbl.....can't wait to watch this!!!!!
@@redhat_maveric3633 My dad had a 1970 MG Midget which makes the Cobra look like a large car. The Midget has a 10 inch shorter wheelbase, almost 20 inches shorter overall length, and about 13 inches narrower than a Cobra. Not sure how tall Ray is, but at 6'2" I could fit in the Midget. Granted getting the legs in through the doors was a slight struggle, but once in it was OK.
On the shifter, it’s a B&M Ratchet shifter. “Ratchet” it up to Neutral and then lift UP on the shifter and move towards Reverse and Park.
Honestly, I thought it was a sequential shifter, the way Ray moved it.
Its like the dodge "slap shift" systems. The ratchet is to prevent accidently "slapping" it into reverse.
@@user-tf3ir8sc5m Similar to the Hurst slap shifter that was stock on my 68 GTO.
Even though that is a replica it's still a bad ass car 454 big block nice engine choice I bet that is fast.
You are correct sir, you have to pull up and then shift. This setup is specifically setup to shift through gears not leave it in drive.
even as a replica still a gorgeous car
Great to see old school content Ray!
The one thing i do enjoy with your content you keep the brand bashing to a minimum unlike other content creators of course everyone has their preference's but a true car guy knows all brands make good and bad vehicles/components.
I think Ray understands unlike some other creators being overly biased looses you viewers/subscribers
That's what a car salesman calls a "mechanic's special." Keep it parked under the awning, drive it and tinker with it when you have a few minutes, and in a month or so you should have most of the bugs worked out. Those DIY crimp connections should guarantee years of diagnostic pleasure!
I miss the floor mounted high-beam buttons!
Ditto. The steering column ones are easier to flash though.
Not that I do that..
@@bruceb4349 I disagree I uses to be able to hit that button pretty fast back in the day lol
Old school tech yeah! I can't believe your setting stuff on the paint.
AGREED, it's probably not a top tier reproduction but still does deserve some respect.
It's ok he won't hurt the paint, I need to repaint it anyways.
@@redhat_maveric3633 Placing brake fluid caps on the paint can damage the paint, brake fluid is well known for stripping paint.
Ray....about the paint correction......shhhhhshhhhh.....
Hey, hey good morning Ray's Repairs, well, you sir inspired me to change my spark plugs and coils on my 05 Ford Focus, I pulled out the very first coil and found oil in the spark plug tube. I am very, very tempted to replace the gaskets on my own, however I am 51 yrs, and life experience is telling me to not be a dumb blank, take it to a shop. So that's the plan. Wishing you were here! Ha. Have a great day..
Much respect for taming that carb. Most ‘Technicians’ would have run and hid after pulling the air cleaner off.
4 barrels were awesome!
Except for milage.
carbs are not hard just need to be exposed to them on an old bloke
@toddbrown3606 Actually, 4bbl carbs can be very fuel efficient. That was their beauty - two carbs in one!
Of course, the right foot has a huge impact.
But this is a toy, so who cares!
Hi Ray, I have a 70 Vette with the 454, first year for it in the Corvette. I have owned it for almost 30 years and I know all about the switch you mentioned. That chassis and engine all looks very familiar except mine is in excellent condition comparatively. Anyway I wanted to mention a couple things. I saw some others comment as well about the carburetor and timing. The carburetor definitely needs to be rebuilt, I didn't see the accelerator pump working, could have missed it but it seems to me that it needs to be rebuilt and then properly setup. With regard to the differential, that stub axel/differential has a problem inside. My guess is the clip holding it on has wore away, that is based on how far out it is from the case. I actually have a similar problem right now on mine but not nearly to that extent. Anyway I hope that helps, I'm sure most of that you already know. I can't wait to see this thing up and running, and have yourself a great rest of your day.
wow....clip is critical....this needs to be investigated.....the clip Matters.....
If starter not bad,will be soon
I am sure this thing has multiple electrical gremlins, good luck you are going to need it, as for the button on the floor it is the dimmer switch for the headlights
Header heat cooking the solenoid and sticking. That brake fluid disappeared fast from both masters, there must be wet there now. I agree with the timing comment and hard starting, sounds advanced. Did you hear the electric pump come on? The mechanical may not be able to pull through the electric.
I remember a guy on my street had a square body Chevy dually with a 427. He put some headers on it and cooked starter after starter.
Fun seeing the "old school" drive train in your shop. Your depth of knowledge continues to amaze me. There's quite a lot of potential for bad wiring on a custom car like that. Your diag abilities will conquer them, I'm sure. I was ready to condemn the carb when you first tried to start it, even after hearing it running when it stumbled I was thinking accelerator pump. But it seems better the more it ran. Maybe some things were dried out inside. The master cylinders did appear to have leaked inside the cabin. Good luck on finding replacements for a custom build, unless they have identifiers on them. I look forward to seeing the followup videos on this Shelby Cobra. Thanks for a good trip down memory lane on this drivetrain from back in the day. 😊
Replica or not, those are one of my favorite classic cars. I love the body style. Good luck on your parts hunt.👍👍
Omg this car is gorgeous.
It’s Shelby doing stuff to the car as it’s a fake with the wrong engine 🤣🤣
One of my favourite cars ever
Not really, it's a British car that Shelby actually wanted to drop Chevy engines into but GM didn't want it running contrary to the Corvette so they declined and he went to Ford to get engines, Ford never produced this car.
@@PeterGunn1958
Actually, Ford did help in the design of the Cobra when it was changed to carry the 427 Side Oiler engine. But they didn’t produce them.
@@PeterGunn1958 I never mentioned Ford.
As a Brit I know all about AC Cars stories
I was making a lighthearted joke about it not being a “Shelby “ that’s all.
Didn't Ford make something they called a 428 cobra on a '68 torino fastback body?
@@108gk
It was a trim level. 428 Cobra Jet.
Every problem in this car can be rectified. I can't think of a better person to fix this car than the Rainman.
Of Course.....The vehicle sure looks cool......Hope the Owner just pays Ray to get it perfect.......imagine the fun, if it could just start, faithfully, and run fast and safe....
@ 10:17 nope so close but so far..... love ya rainman!
Ahhhh, miss the days where you're violently stamping the floor to shut your high beams off.
...And then the switch breaks and you have no lights at all...been there...77 Plymouth Volare.
@@wilbilt Oh Sh*T!
I remember the days of open headers; my old truck had headers under the driver rocker with no guards, leaving scars on my calves and my brother had a speed boat (same engine), which left scars on both our right forearms (messing with ski tow lines). Gotta love the 70s.
I’ll tap the solenoid with a hammer to unstick it from whatever condition I don’t want 😄
YAY!!! Brake Clean Sounds!!!
Come on Ray back in the old days , we had cigarettes hanging out of our mouths pouring gas in the flooded carb. Nothing better than a good flame out in the face
The radiator still needs its corvette ducting to force air through the radiator instead escaping over the top
Yeah I seen that also.
@@GaryH-pw9cm * saw
I worked on one of these Shelby kit cars for a customer a few weeks ago but it was on a Fox Body chassis. What a death trap. Lots of power but just a pile of crap. The complaint was lighting issues. All the grounds were junk and connections made with regular old crimp connectors. I got it working and pushed it outside just as fast I could and hope it doesn't return.
Brake Clean is THEE answer to EVERYTHING!!! omGGG!
Regarding question @ 30:22. That is the high beam selector switch. Step on it once to switch from low to high beam. Once more to switch back.
Just a couple weeks ago, my buddy had the same thing happen in his Jeep... We traced it to the starter relay, and everything has been good. Not saying this is the same issue, but we will see what Ray finds...
Dimmer switch! Man, I haven't seen one of those in years!
When I was a kid, have seen them fail on GM vehicles and disable cranking.
My F100 has one and my old Willys wagon had a foot switch to engage the starter.
Good thing Dave is there to fix cars while you play around..
You got this Ray! You can do it!
That kit car needs a lot of love…. Remove the mechanical fuel pump, put a fuel pressure regulator on it. Make sure the fans are pullers and not pushers, a MSD distributor and I’m not really a fan of Carter carburetors a new battery and possibly get rid of that Summit starter and put a hamburg starter on there… just my opinion I know that all involves quite a bit of money, but it’s worth it to make the car run and perform right sounds like the engine needs a bit of a tune as well….
And Ray the switch on the floor that would be a headlight dimmer switch I also noticed that the brake Lever was rubbing on the steering column, and I hope those bolts sticking through the floor was not holding the seats in place …. Ray keep up the good work.🇺🇸👊🏼👊🏼
Can't see a fan running? Here's an old computer engineer's trick. Take an ordinary cable tie and carefully poke the fan. You'll soon know!
I always found my knuckle was best at detecting PC fans. Got bit by one of the deltas that draw like 6.5 amps. I could hear it but still couldn't avoid it.
@@BlackWolf42-destructive testing!! LoL 😂😆
Button on floor. Have not seen that in a long time. High beam switch. COOL!!!
Brake clean for starting fluid . I’ve always used plane old starting fluid.. cool ride there.
I like how on this shiny car the first thing you see under the hood is a rusty air filter cover and gross valve covers
What valve covers do you recommend, maybe some can be sent to Ray!
The car has been sitting outside hence the rust.
@@gregjohnson2073 negative garage kept
@@redhat_maveric3633 Sandpaper and a can of silver spray paint
@@redhat_maveric3633Why the rust then?
Ray, sounds like the timing needs to be adjusted a bit, to get a smoother start.
As for the carb, it probably needs pulled off and rebuilt, especially of it has sat for a long time. Here, that Cobra carb idle circuit seems out of adjustment, like it doesn't have the proper air/fuel mixture. Guy named Junkyard Digs has a channel, and he once posted a video about how different carbs work, like a Quadrajet. He also shows how to get them apart to be cleaned, especially the jets.
As for the cooling issue, I'm thinking a stuck-open thermostat. My first car, a 1982 Oldsmobile Regency 98, had no thermostat, which essentially acts like a stuck-open thermostat, since there isn't any way to control hot coolant and exchange it with cold coolant. As for the fans, I'm thinking either the control switch or relay has failed, or there may be a ground wire issue, which is why the fans are constantly on.
About the leaking brake system: Ray, check the Left-Rear wheel again! At 26:00, your camera caught the tire -- and it looks like the inside of the tire has the tell-tale signs of a blown caliper, with fluid spray on the tire going from the inside of the tire to the outside of the tire, in a straight line. On the tire, that spray pattern looks like a radial pattern. And the difference is, the Right-Rear tire doesn't have that pattern on it.
That said, Ray, double-check the rear brakes to see if they function. My guess is, the proportioning valve originally went out, and that caused the brake caliper at the Left-Rear wheel to blow out, causing the fluid spray on the tire.
Can confirm it's not a stuck thermostat, I've tried at least 4 different ones.
Seems like a 190° thermostat. When the temp gauge climbed to 190 ish the temp gauge dropped as the thermostat opened.
@@redhat_maveric3633 : I take it that the Cobra is your car?
Given that the thermostat is not stuck, I can think of only three other possible causes for the overheat condition:
1) Bad radiator cap. This has two things to consider: One is the temp range on the cap, which would be the pressure in the system. Two is the physical components of the cap, such as the seal or the spring. In any case, the cause would be that the cap isn't pressurizing the system at the proper pressure, which then causes the coolant to get hot quicker than normal.
2) Bad temperature control switch or probe for the E-fans. This may simply be corroded or not at the proper Ohm range to turn the fans on properly. We know the fans work, but a thermister, a thermal resistor, that controls the fan circuits may be bad. Additionally, the fan control circuit may need a relay to turn the fans on. Way I did it on my truck is, the power side of the fan motor connector runs to two places: To the Coolant Fan Relay, then to Battery+; and the other place is to ground. The Coolant Fan Relay gets its input from the thermistor as a Coolant Temperature Sensor, which gets Battery+ power, and then sends that power to the Coolant Fan Relay. Depending on the Fan Motor Controller (since you have two fans), the Coolant Temperature Sensor may send 1 signal for two purposes: Turning on the second fan, or increasing fan speed (or both).
3) The coolant has air bubbles in it. This may cause overheating due to air, even pressurized air, having way less heat-carrying capacity than liquid coolant. This means even if the physical components -- pump, gaskets, belt, hoses, sensor, wiring, thermostat, radiator cap -- are all functioning and holding pressure, air bubbles will act like the system still has a fault, which is that not enough coolant is being cycled as the engine runs.
Hope this helps, as I really like the Cobra on a Corvette platform, given the largest Ford motor Shelby ever put into a Cobra is a 427 ci V8 with a four-speed manual transmission.
@@redhat_maveric3633 does it overheat more while driving or at idle? If driving I'd suspect the angled airflow over/missing the rad, plus the fans "fighting" now.
Running rad fans full time while driving is sometimes detrimental to cooling, FYI, though I suspect that was an attempt to fix it? Could just wire to toggle them on/off if you don't want to trigger them from temp sensor or other. We run our racecar this way.
@@miketdavies we will have to wait to find out! I wanted to provide just a little background on some of these posts. Outside of that, it's rays content and I know he will crush it.
Silver button on the floor is old school for turning on and off your bright lights
The button on the floor is a "Cop ahead warning" switch! Press it 4 times if cop with radar is ahead! LoL
One of your green test leads is laying against those header pipes down there, you're going to have to buy another set of them. Unless that was an obstacle delusion
Did I see things? Like... the choke not closing on a cold start? Or am I imagining that...
One thing on the cooling, we used to run a 180deg. thermostat and drilled a 1/8” hole in it to help flow but ride the thermostat. Also need a trans cooler. It was hard to hear, but if running a solid cam it sounded like the valves need to lashed.
Long over due on checking lash, I've never done it on a car before. I have done on much smaller engines.
Classic Raymond. Uses a fender cover so the battery cables don't scratch paint on the passenger door, and ignores the buttons on his shirt scratching the paint when leaning into the engine bay.
listen.....that was the way they worked on Fords and Dodges and Chevys back in the day......Only Caddys and Lincolns got respected. Anyway, Watcha gonna do???? (only kidding You, of course, but back in the day, people really were sloppy.....and the cars were cheep.....so no one noticed.....)
Nice product placement
😏
The wife unit missed her mandatory appearance in this video
LoL 🤣😆
Appears the electric fuel pump isn’t working. It should have primed with the key on. Thermo fans should be controlled by the ignition via a thermal switch as well. That probably why the battery keeps dying.
Not to mention the always on brake and tail lights.
I came very close to buying a Factory Five Cobra kit when I was younger,, The kit included a tube frame and fiberglass body, and required a square body mustang as a parts car to complete the build on the budget kit,,, ( $5,000.00 at that time,,, $22,000.00 now,,, ) Just one of my many regrets,, :-)
👀 me staring at the live solenoid wire hanging out right next to that sheet metal screw lol
High beam switch!
Your comment about the "no thermostat" causing an engine to overheat is semi correct. It is not because it doesn't have time to absorb heat from the engine. The laws of thermodynamics don't allow that. The reason is because it doesn't have time for the RADIATOR to expel the heat.
correct
You might find reading and understanding Newtons Law of Cooling to be helpful🤔
@@TheJcrandazzo Herein lies the problem. This is the internet. Once something is said, it is out there forever. Ray was simply saying what he believed. The issue is that it is not correct. Unless he makes a correction video, this false information is out there forever. Five years down the road, someone that can't think for themselves and question, is going to watch this and is going to take this as gospel and repeat it. The circle then keeps on circulating.
@@optimist3580 Your comment needs context. What is your position?
A radiator shroud might help😮
What an awesome car very cool 😎 she’s alive
It amazes me how over the years every wanna be diy mechanic messes with a car till it's got 10, 20, 50 problems. Then to top it off it's a replica that who knows who pieced it together. I had these 4 piston brake calipers on a Chevelle ( boy did they STOP ) but I had to reseal them 2 or 3 times. You said all the gages worked, no volts on that one. Great vids, keep up the good honest work Ray
I SEE THE PROBLEM!
THE BELT IS ON BACKWARDS!
Causing the fan clutch to time warp into a negative flow. Can only be seen with an antique timing light of course. 😉
Fix that right now Ray!! REEEEE
Button is for dimming the bright lights the old school way.
Called a dimmer switch
There's a difference between bright lights, and high beam lights. Compare any 1965 vehicle to modern cars.
Good video. This shows well the problems that kit cars can have with just a little in attention. It’s a head light dimmer switch . Used one for many years , lol
Just watched "Ford vs Ferrari". It's excellent.
that is a sweet looking ride
The Rainman cometh! Hey Ray, you do realize you will need a bigger shop and more employees, right? Getting work from the gov't (cop car) and now someone's custom Cobra, are signs you have estabished yourself as a very trustworthy business. I am digging these electrical gripes. Been involved with military fighter jet electrical/avionics troubleshooting for 40 years and when I get an intermittent electrical gripe ("It only happens when I'm in a left bank, pulling 5 g's") is when I feel I'm really earning my paycheck.
I've been watching Ray for years now. There is a good reason I chose him to work on her "Muriel to be exact my grandma's name"
Run Run Run Ray Run! just saying
loving seeing all the old school guys coming out of the woodwork with the comments....
Cool car ❤
Sacrilegious a Chevy motor in a Cobra😮
Doesn't matter, the Cobra was an English car that Shelby wanted to race, he actually approached GM first but they said no so he went to Ford for his V8's.
the motor is fine, who the hell puts an automatic in a cobra?
It's just a custom body swap with a Corvette; IOW an Cobra in looks only.
It’s a “Mock Cobra” …
It's not a Chevy motor in a Cobra, it's a cheap Cobra kit on a Corvette.
Drove the real deal way back in history, 80 in first gear, and a kick in the back at 50 when the second choke kicked in. It was like having 10 Harleys riding on your bumper.
Ray im disapointed that you didnt see that the choke was not set,its wide open at cold start and i can hear it needs more initial timing because some turned the timing down because it needed a new starter and the owner went cheap and didnt want to buy premium gas because it spark knocked. Cant fix cheapness, love your videos GO RAY GO