Great job, just one problem. Before installing the valve cover, on a 3.6 engine you need to add a dab of RTV gasket sealant between the timing cover and cylinder head beneath the valve cover.
Thank you for the detailed video! Do you need to apply a dab of RTV sealant to the two (engine timing cover to cylinder head T-joints) ? It looked as if while you were replacing the gaskets, etc, 17:17-19 you picked out a little ( junk ) maybe old sealant. Thanks!
so i did this job in my driveway. And when i put the rear cover on, it seemed ok.... then I dropped my socket behind the engine... i got under the truck, and found the socket, but I also, noticed that the area where the set pin on the left was....i could see the gasket, after it was all tightened up. Seems the valve cover is warped and that was the reason it leaked. so I had to re-remove the rear cover and remove that pin. I guess the last guy who did this job, didnt get that pin in the hole and bent the edge. Now with the pin removed, I am able to ADD a bolt and nut to it, and tighten it down so it will seal. I hope this works, because after this job, I would have had the same EXACT leak, with the new gasket. Hopefully this will seal the oil leak. and as far as the wiring goes that used to connect to that pin... well...I will find a new place to mount those.. .maybe firewall. maybe just a zip tie... not sure atm. Find out tomorrow morning, if this will all work out.
Nice work. Check the video. I think that you took #4 cam sensor from the rear valve cover. However, when you replaced the #4 cam sensor you put it in the front valve cover.
Looks like you put those spark plug tube seals in upside-down. You got the tubes through the seals no problem so maybe not, but it sure looks looks like it.
I am not able to pull off the front valve cover after loosening all the valve cover 8mm. Any tips on removing the valve cover ? The front brackets seem to be in the way , but can’t see how to loosen them without damage.
A seal installer would be best but you can also use something about the same size to place over them and tap into place. A wooden dowel about the same width also works.
Good video but two major mistakes one is never ever fast forward through the job and show a close up of what you are doing remember you have a lot of people who are doing this for the first time who cares how long it takes to make the video I highly recommend people to use the factory repair manual along with any videos
That is a camshaft phaser timing solenoid or also called cam phaser position sensor. This vehicle with a 3.6L engine, has a set of 4 of total. 1 for each camshaft. We do sell them if needed and they are APDTY-144964 and here is a link to them on our website: apdty.com/products/apd-144964
Great job, just one problem. Before installing the valve cover, on a 3.6 engine you need to add a dab of RTV gasket sealant between the timing cover and cylinder head beneath the valve cover.
I've been looking all over for a how to for Chrysler 200 on this, this helps a lot.
Great video. Thanks for taking the time to make it.
Great video, thanks for taking the time to make it.!!!!
Good video, I want to check the rocker arms in mine and your video is more detailed than any of the rocker arm videos.
Thank you for the detailed video! Do you need to apply a dab of RTV sealant to the two (engine timing cover to cylinder head T-joints) ? It looked as if while you were replacing the gaskets, etc, 17:17-19 you picked out a little ( junk ) maybe old sealant. Thanks!
Thanks for your help this video is very good 👍
Great video. Thanks for the help.
nice job!! thumbs up
Thank you for making this video!
Thanks great job !
Why do you have to take the cam sensors out ? You can't just leave them ?
Thank you for the video
so i did this job in my driveway. And when i put the rear cover on, it seemed ok.... then I dropped my socket behind the engine... i got under the truck, and found the socket, but I also, noticed that the area where the set pin on the left was....i could see the gasket, after it was all tightened up. Seems the valve cover is warped and that was the reason it leaked. so I had to re-remove the rear cover and remove that pin. I guess the last guy who did this job, didnt get that pin in the hole and bent the edge. Now with the pin removed, I am able to ADD a bolt and nut to it, and tighten it down so it will seal. I hope this works, because after this job, I would have had the same EXACT leak, with the new gasket. Hopefully this will seal the oil leak. and as far as the wiring goes that used to connect to that pin... well...I will find a new place to mount those.. .maybe firewall. maybe just a zip tie... not sure atm. Find out tomorrow morning, if this will all work out.
Btw guys.. it worked. Replacing that pin with a nut and bolt fixed the warp
Nice presentation!
Thank you!
Thanks 👍
Well, I,ll be changing out every lifter +rocker as well on my 2012 3.6. but the rest looks like fun .I will be busy. no wonder shops charge so much.
I have to do the same thing
Get used to ripping into this engine..
Спасибо за видео. Не увидел, чтобы мастер использовал динамометрический ключ для затяжки болтов клапанных крышек.
Great video.
Nice work. Check the video. I think that you took #4 cam sensor from the rear valve cover. However, when you replaced the #4 cam sensor you put it in the front valve cover.
No.4 belongs in the front. 4321 is the order
@@FactsMattersUSA Uhh. thats a v6 bud. this v6 like most fire in order. 1-2-3-4-5-6.
Yes.. #4 came from rear.. replaced to front.
Looks like you put those spark plug tube seals in upside-down. You got the tubes through the seals no problem so maybe not, but it sure looks looks like it.
Could you please share the part number of the gaskets?
I am not able to pull off the front valve cover after loosening all the valve cover 8mm. Any tips on removing the valve cover ? The front brackets seem to be in the way , but can’t see how to loosen them without damage.
Did you remove the CAMs on the left side? 3 T-25 Torx screws on each. Can't remove the valve cover until those come out.
I just realized you put the number 4 cam sensor into the 1 spot ?!
How did you get the seals in the covers. I seen you messed with it for a while. What was the trick.
A seal installer would be best but you can also use something about the same size to place over them and tap into place. A wooden dowel about the same width also works.
1 1/8 socket and a rubber mallet!!!
Great video, I did the job on 1and 1/2 day..but I didn't like the fast foward I wanted to watch the whole video no matter how long it takes
Sorry about that, long videos are hard to deal with.
Good video but two major mistakes one is never ever fast forward through the job and show a close up of what you are doing remember you have a lot of people who are doing this for the first time who cares how long it takes to make the video I highly recommend people to use the factory repair manual along with any videos
I am guessing no, but did you have to drain the oil first? I will be doing this tomorrow.
Nope eleven months later lol
The missing 10mm that every DIY has been looking for.
How did you get the spark plug tube seals out
It can be a little tricky but usually some small pick tools are used to pry them out,
scouring the internet trying to figure out what these sensors at 7:26 are for a friend, and you just call them he lmao.
That is a camshaft phaser timing solenoid or also called cam phaser position sensor. This vehicle with a 3.6L engine, has a set of 4 of total. 1 for each camshaft. We do sell them if needed and they are APDTY-144964 and here is a link to them on our website: apdty.com/products/apd-144964
Torque que lleva en los tornillos tapa
Anyone have the torque specs for the valve covers ?
How did you get the cam sensor seals into the cover ?
@@SplashyCannonBall I haven't even done the job yet. Try asking the guy who made the video.
Valve Cover Torque specs : 8 ft-lbs
It’s really help me out thank you
thank you for commenting!