just put your battery tender plug up onto the cowling and leave it there. that way you can plug in without opening the bonnet or removing the trim panel. Also, your negative tender wire should connect to the negative terminal located to the right of the brake master cylinder. this is the proper place to clamp jumper cables as well as the tender cables, not the negative battery terminal. this terminal looks like its just the anchor for the wiper system.
would suggest to disconnect battery terminals first to prevent any arching while using tools. otherwise, great tutorial and enjoy watching all your videos on the GT4! i have owned mine for 3 years, always took it to the dealership, however looking at your vids, everything looks very simplistic! well done.
Thank you very much. Its really nothing crazy to normal maintenance for the car. It only gets crazy once you get to the supercars and internal engine/transmission work.
great video. looking to replace my battery in my 981 GT4. I am trying to find the battery online but doesn’t seem available. I wonder if this part number is still available. Did you just go to the VW dealer and provide the part number or did you reference a specific VW vehicle.
Actually My Porsche dealer carries the VW battery to help offset some cost for Porsche owners. They gave me the part number off of the original part number.
Was this a prospective replacement or was the battery tested showing needing this? I've got a 2014 Base Cayman. Battery seems fine but I have to look at condition closer.
It was getting time to replace it. It wasn't able to hold load anymore. Even after trickle charging it wouldn't stay above 12v with key on engine off. I was getting a slow crank as well and the windows wouldn't work after starting for about 5-10 sec.
Did you supply power to the computer via that trickle charger before disconnecting the terminals? If power was disconnected, you need to reprogram the battery in the computer and have a drive cycle.
No I didn't put a tender on it when I disconnected the terminals. There was no need for that since I was replacing the battery with a new one. I had to program the BMC anyways with the info from the new battery.
@@wilsoneashoian5789 you are correct. If you are going to do that to save the data in the ecm then just be careful of the positive cable not touching the body to create an arc. If you don't need to smog check your car for awhile, normally 2 good 40 mile drives and a fill up of the tank will get all the monitors to run and pass again. I only have to have to smog test done every 2 years in my state. Just plan accordingly.
Isn’t it necessary to attach the battery tender prior to removing the cables from the battery, thus ensuring that you don’t lose any data from the ECM?
Not really. There isn't any data that is volatile to engine running. You just loose your stored long term fuel trims and all the emission monitor test status. Nothing that can't be relearned. It will take up to a few days and a fuel refill to have the ecm relearn everything depending on your driving habits. Just some other info. When you clear any fault codes in your ecm you trigger a reset of all the emission monitor status where they all have to re run to get a pass status.
Thank you for clarifying. I did end up attaching the tender via the cigarette lighter but when I removed the battery cables the tender essentially turned itself off. Hope I didn’t cause any damage. Regards from Houston.
@@bobinhouston7638 welcome. Not sure a tender will work the way you want it unless it puts out a std current. Most now days are smart and only trickle charge when it senses the voltage the battery. It might of just cut off doing what its programed to do. As long as your positive terminal didn't' touch ground you should be ok.
just put your battery tender plug up onto the cowling and leave it there. that way you can plug in without opening the bonnet or removing the trim panel.
Also, your negative tender wire should connect to the negative terminal located to the right of the brake master cylinder. this is the proper place to clamp jumper cables as well as the tender cables, not the negative battery terminal. this terminal looks like its just the anchor for the wiper system.
would suggest to disconnect battery terminals first to prevent any arching while using tools. otherwise, great tutorial and enjoy watching all your videos on the GT4! i have owned mine for 3 years, always took it to the dealership, however looking at your vids, everything looks very simplistic! well done.
Thank you very much. Its really nothing crazy to normal maintenance for the car. It only gets crazy once you get to the supercars and internal engine/transmission work.
great video. looking to replace my battery in my 981 GT4. I am trying to find the battery online but doesn’t seem available. I wonder if this part number is still available. Did you just go to the VW dealer and provide the part number or did you reference a specific VW vehicle.
Actually My Porsche dealer carries the VW battery to help offset some cost for Porsche owners. They gave me the part number off of the original part number.
Insightful video thank you very much!
Was this a prospective replacement or was the battery tested showing needing this? I've got a 2014 Base Cayman. Battery seems fine but I have to look at condition closer.
It was getting time to replace it. It wasn't able to hold load anymore. Even after trickle charging it wouldn't stay above 12v with key on engine off. I was getting a slow crank as well and the windows wouldn't work after starting for about 5-10 sec.
Did you supply power to the computer via that trickle charger before disconnecting the terminals? If power was disconnected, you need to reprogram the battery in the computer and have a drive cycle.
No I didn't put a tender on it when I disconnected the terminals. There was no need for that since I was replacing the battery with a new one. I had to program the BMC anyways with the info from the new battery.
@@gtmachine6134 I understand, but it will not pass smog test until Drive Cycle is complete if you reset the OBDII.
@@wilsoneashoian5789 you are correct. If you are going to do that to save the data in the ecm then just be careful of the positive cable not touching the body to create an arc.
If you don't need to smog check your car for awhile, normally 2 good 40 mile drives and a fill up of the tank will get all the monitors to run and pass again. I only have to have to smog test done every 2 years in my state. Just plan accordingly.
Isn’t it necessary to attach the battery tender prior to removing the cables from the battery, thus ensuring that you don’t lose any data from the ECM?
Not really. There isn't any data that is volatile to engine running. You just loose your stored long term fuel trims and all the emission monitor test status. Nothing that can't be relearned. It will take up to a few days and a fuel refill to have the ecm relearn everything depending on your driving habits.
Just some other info. When you clear any fault codes in your ecm you trigger a reset of all the emission monitor status where they all have to re run to get a pass status.
Thank you for clarifying. I did end up attaching the tender via the cigarette lighter but when I removed the battery cables the tender essentially turned itself off. Hope I didn’t cause any damage. Regards from Houston.
@@bobinhouston7638 welcome. Not sure a tender will work the way you want it unless it puts out a std current. Most now days are smart and only trickle charge when it senses the voltage the battery. It might of just cut off doing what its programed to do. As long as your positive terminal didn't' touch ground you should be ok.