Project TaoTao : CVT's Got Issues (Contra Springs, Ball Bearings, Tuning, & Scooter Fails)
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- čas přidán 3. 10. 2013
- The third video update for Project TaoTao is full of CVT transmission headaches. Every time I thought the scooter was in tune, something would change. On top of the problems and troubleshooting, I tested a Hoca ball bearing contra / torque spring base that reduces friction, as well as a low budget version of the mod.
Please stay tuned by subscribing. The next update will cover ignition upgrades including a high performance coil and racing CDIs.
Please like the video! Thank you for watching!
#ProjectTaoTao #139QMB #ChineseScooter - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Thanks. When I first got back on little 10" wheels I hardly ever scraped the stand. Now I've worn almost through the stand in one spot. lol
Thanks for all the great vids. I have watched this one several times and I think if you did a whole video on contra / clutch springs it would be great. Not a whole lot of info out there and you give the most detailed explanations.
Thank you so much, your videos have helped me tune my old taotao to a great scooter
Thanks for the advice when i sort out the problem i will let you know
thanks again and keep up the excellent work.
What an awesome, well put together video. I did learn a lot thanks. And I cant believe you bought that shipping scale and made a spring tester, great idea. If you ever need a hook up or favor from someone in Taiwan, I'd be glad to help. It's scooter heaven here, you'd probably love it.
wow man a lot of headaches glad things balanced out great vid loved the centerstand sparks
Have tried Naraku CDI ,Naraku performance clutches friend nice video sorry about last comment on other video , keep up good work.
I have not tried either.
Luv your vids you’re a scientist!
Thanks I'm going to do it today. I've been thinking of it since I first watched this vid, now I feel justified, thanks again, GREAT vids
Thank you.
The roller bearing I used a flat washer under the base to stop the grease getting out and a 37mm x 1mm on the top o ring sill working well I love these videos when there done properly and not by a amateur update it is sill not leaking the washer I used was a flat 2mm x 60mm O/D x 46mm I/D tap one which is fitted under the basin tap and the bull bearings use a good grease like ZX one.Jeff in Uk
Thank you. I'm working on the ignition system update now, but I will tell you I sure didn't see 15° of advance. I always run premium 91-93. Now I forget the what the station I use every time is, but I wanna say 93. No plans to use race fuel. For 15° I'd have to, but not for what I'm getting out of the CDIs.
I enjoy your videos very much,and i wish my comments can help the scooter community.
I've spent a bunch, because I have parts here to keep trying. Here's what I've used so far though. Scoot was $675 shipped, $150 to register here (MVA messed up & I had to pay a dealer to submit the paperwork), $20/set of sliders, Keihin $50, jets $25, clutch springs $10/set, each contra $10-15, spring base $30, BBs $5, CDIs $20/each, coil $15, and then maybe $100 on the things covered in the PDI. Good news is if you watch the vids you can let me waste my money on what doesn't work & keep yours.
Compared to my Chinese 139qmb retro scooter, it’s rather a saint. Mine keeps eating parts like its breakfast
@@mikkelsmikkel8070 There was more in mine. That was the performance stuff thus far. It needed a brake caliper, tires, multiple variators/bushings, gearbox bearings, and I don't even recall it all ATM.
Damn! You have done a really great job. I checked the results of a CDI change on 150cc GY6 engines using a timing light and found that the ignition was advanced a considerable amount (more than 15 degrees) and that could be the reason for the drop in performance once the engine heated up. Try upping the octane rating of the fuel you are using and see if that doesn't make a difference.
Did it advance at idle and. Or wot? Bill
Your videos are excellent and I learn a lot from them. Thank you.
Pirate Labs Thanks!
true that, wouldn't had my scoot running the way it does now without your vids, btw its me colddogs ha-ha.
Fantastic video
Thanks!
With a 1000 rpm contra spring the best is to increase the roller weight..my 150 cc flies using 18 gram roller weights and 1000 rpm contra springs..Most want to use the 2000 rpm contra spring and still use heavy rollers,big mistake..the lighter the contra spring,the heavier the rollers must be..so when you increase on one side,you have decrease on the other side..its a very simple rule..I have been using 18 grams on my 150 cc for 4 years,and i still use the second belt which i replaced not too loon ago..watch out for fake gates powerlink belts,the original ones from Colorado last forever,so to speak,thanks for all your efforts...i do a lot of tests too,thats the only way to learn ..
Thanks!
well bro this taotao videos is how i found your channel just for the taotao lol
I would start by going through the CVT to see if something is wrong there. If you take the rear pulley assembly off when checking the CVT, try to rotate the rear wheel then. If it is still bad, your problem is likely in the final drive transmission. If it spins easily once the CVT is not connected to it, then you most likely have a CVT problem.
thanks for inspiration:)
Try 8.5 or 9 grams with the 1000 rpm contra spring and enjoy top speed at very low R.P.M...especially for long rides
Thank you for putting together such a professional video. I have a question for you I have a tao tao 50cc duel shock 2012 scooter 12 inch tires. Recently I have been getting a clacking noise in my back tire and the resistance in my tire is getting stronger to the point that my back tire will hardly turn. Could use some good advise.Thanks
Do you feel I should vent my cvt cover on a stock set up, as 100% stock? O live in Dallas Tx and its HOT here. Btw, great vids and the knowledge shared is beyond expectations, thank you.
I vent all of mine. I think some sort of cooling modification is necessary for longer part life and to reduce spring fade. A couple of members of the forum have used tubing to let the cooling fan for the engine push some air into their CVTs instead of venting.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/360/cvt-cooling?page=1&scrollTo=112246
Oh, that didn't include the Trail Tech. That was $70 open box on eBay, $30 more in extra sensors and extensions. Had the wideband from my car, but that's around $300 new. Oil temp gauge was about $20. $30 for the 12V oultet and the Stinger voltmeter. $20 for the bar end mirror you may see I swapped to. $30 for the replacement variator.
Excellent overview of CVT tuning! I have a question for you. My Puma Angel 50 has been dropping RPM's when climbing hills, as well as shifting to quickly on level ground. It feels like my RPM's are well below power band. The scooter is bone stock and has around 1,400 miles on it. Would a simple change of the contra spring do the trick? Or should I replace the rollers as well.
You need to change out the weights inside the variatior, probably go up 1-2 gram and this will change the reaction on a hill, if you have a 6 gram, then try a 8 gram weight
Take a look in there first. Rollers could be getting flat spots, which you should be able to see easily if you take a look, but it could very well be the spring getting weak.
Saw your videos :-) i put a new motor on my 150cc vento and change the back wire part to the cdi box with a new cdi.
Also did the tester on it. Lights turns on, but it won't turn over. Would the alarm stop it from starting? Need your help! !!!!
Hi 90GTVert :) I have the same Taotao and your Project Taotao videos have really helped me get the most out of its small gy6. This video makes the stock CVT seem fragile and problematic so I don't even want to touch it since mine is still working fine, but I've been wanting to check it for a restriction. Did yours have a variator ring/washer?
I had no restrictions on my TaoTao.
Okay thanks. That'll save me from having to disassemble it, at least until I'm ready to install some sliders that is. I've got a couple more questions if you don't mind me asking.
1. I know the GY6 runs off of a vacuum, so I'm pretty sure it wouldn't work with the stock engine, but do you think it would be plausible to rig up a forced air induction system via a lithium ion electric leaf leaf blower if I installed a BBK?
2. Do you have any experience with the bolt box at scrappydogscooters? It's pretty expensive. Do you think it would be worth the money or should I just stick to the free timing mod with the stock CDI?
1. Don't bother unless you enjoy a big project.
2. No experience. It seems like a nice piece, but I'm not sure that it's worth the difference in cost of the pickup mod for anyone that isn't looking to extract every last decimal place of power.
Thanks for getting me in on the forums! I got a good tip on how to fix that broken plastic frame on my scoot from one and got the email address of 02starrider from a guy saying he could probably sell me the kit with a 47mm piston/bore, instead of the 50mm piston/bore. I agree with your assessment as one guy talking about his new 50mm piston/bore is using heavier 8g rollers, so he's not getting the full power of the BBK, no sense in doing that to keep the engine from seizing as a good engine should be able to go full power. I still might do the 47mm BBK for a resale of my scoot, so will probably have a little more power/speed that way, but think I've got to get my motorcycle license and just buy that Taotao CY 150cc Paladin to get the power I need for the roads out here.
Btw, my scoot was hard to start tonight, the humidity level was high, and after a few minutes it got worse, wasn't sure of the problem, but guessing that the intake valve and exhaust valve being mal-adjusted from the factory (probably the same .002 as yours) has finally caused me a somewhat serious problem as after trying for a while to start it, the battery start giving up, so at least the battery is dead for now, so had to get the bus back home and will have to go get the charge checked at Autozone and then get it re-charged. I'm going to bring my brand new feeler gauge, wrench set, maybe some extra sockets (ratchet in scooter seat), and a pair of pliers to UCLA tomorrow after the battery is re-charged, just in case I have starting problems still in the daytime (always starts better in sunny weather), so will do the adjustments on the fly at UCLA if necessary.
Damn thing is, I had planned to do the valve adjustments tomorrow night (Friday) in my usual work place, take apart the muffler/exhaust, rear wheel and watch the video a few times on re-installing new brake shoes, and then sand-paper the drum and outer brake shoes to get rid of that squealing in the rear brake. I figured I'd try brake cleaner on the drum and brake shoes a weeks ago to see if cleaning it would get rid of the squeaking and that worked for the night as I also cleaned with soap and water the entire wheel and tire, both front and rear, but the next day it started squeaking a little, then back to the same old incessant squeaking after a few days. I checked online for answers and sure enough a friend working with motorcycle mechanics advising to use sand-paper on the drum and shoes was right as one guy online said it fixed his squeaking and had lasted for 600 miles so far.
Anyway, let me know if you can think of any other possible problems with it being hard to start. I had a lot of trouble with starting this scooter in the first couple hundred miles, but since then it has only given me trouble starting only a few times a week, but usually after a few seconds, BEFORE TONIGHT, it starts right up even when it's raining out, then give it some gas and it runs fine.
I just hope it's nothing more serious than the intake and exhaust valves set too narrow at the factory and about 5,600 kilometers of running a bit rough has caused it to have trouble starting this one humid night with a good bit of dew on my scooter tonight, so perhaps the trouble starting for so many miles has caused it to go a little off in the timing say, as I recently watched your video last week on adjusting the intake and exhaust valve and noticed I had to take off that black cover and white fan on our scoots to get to the flywheel to ensure it's a "T" with the intake and exhaust valves closed, the three holes lined up right on the cam, etc., so really with all that rough idling for so long, could have thrown it a little out of timing tonight....then so many attempts at starting it drained the battery...UGGHH!
I actually watched your video because I planned to do the job last week, plus fix that headlight casing (remember the funny story about it pointing upwards when I finally got it started, scooter fell on the front forks when getting it out of the steel cage, no video known by you on uncrating instructions, no instructions at all!)...plus I had planned on cleaning the drum and brake shoes, clean up the front and rear wheel, clean up my chain and lock, etc., but the only thing I got done that one long night was getting off exhaust/muffler, that rear wheel, cleaning the front and rear wheels/tires and re-installing everything. A few nights later, I also watched your videos and taking off and re-installing that headlight and figured out what fell apart when taking the scoot out of the steel cage. That looks perfect now, like you installed it, plus my headlight points in the right direction now and lights up the dark roads in Westwood a whole lot better at night now! Funny, that wobbly, loose headlight since I first got the scoot started finally really came loose and was making a racket as soon as I started moving, but like I said, took me hours figuring out how to get off that muffler/exhaust and rear wheel, cleaning everything up, re-installing everything, so I called it quits after that long night!
Anyway, down to just adjusting the intake and exhaust valves right and I know that has to be perfectly done, plus forgot about having to line up the T, so have to take off that white fan and only saw that being messed with on that one video by scrappydogs on how to change the Crankshaft! That's a big job! I thought the BBK kits were complicated, but changing the Crankshaft is a real mechanic's job! I don't think it's that complicated from what I remember of that video, think it might even be just one bolt, but I have to have the right socket with me to do the job! And if it's not done right, I might not be able to start it again tomorrow even after I re-charge the battery! I know the adjustments of the intake and exhaust valve are really important and if done right, I'll bet my engine will purr in a completely different manner than it did after I first started it from the factory...bet it won't shake one bit and will be very smooth when idling. Next month, I'm buying that screw extractor set to get at the idle mixture screw on the stock carb and see if I can take that apart and get that thing running better...maybe if I take apart that idle speed screw and put it back together, I might find out what's wrong with the spring on the idle speed screw and that will run better too!
Anyway, thanks again for those forums. I looked up gel-pads for motorcycles online, but they're too expensive, the cheapest was $65.00! I saw Foam repair kits for $30.00, but that sounds too expensive too. I bet there are places to get foam to add some extra padding for my seat from say an upholstery store for $5.00 and between that and either one small piece of plywood, or the three small strips of woods one guy recommended on your forum, one of the two will fix that sinking feeling in the seat, really uncomfortable, plus with some extra cheap foam, I bet my seat will be much more comfortable and won't even have to take apart the seat cushion!
My rear drum always squeals. I can take it apart and sand it and it's great for a bit, then back to squealing. I think better shoes would help, but I haven't looked into it. Doesn't seem to wear uneven, just glazes over fairly quickly. Asking it to stop more mass isn't helping in my case.
Valve adjustment is a good bet on the starting issue. Sometimes weather swings will do it. If you just got gas it could be bad or at least not good gas. Something loose. Fouling plug.
Don't get your hopes too high on a super smooth engine with no shaking. Single cylinders are especially famous for that.
Wal-Mart used to sell a gel seat for ATVs. It was a cover that went over the seat and velcro straps wrapped around. They say only sold in stores but I think it may be discontinued. Was a reasonable price. Gotta be something out there like it if you look hard enough. Foam shouldn't be hard to find. If you can't get it from a crafts store or upholstery shop you can find foam on eBay.... or tie a pillow to the seat. lol
***** Yeah, I saw new brake shoes for about $11.00 online, so that might be the answer, better shoes, another crappy part on our scoots. I got premium gas a couple days earlier and a little below full, so that's not the problem. But, yeah think it was the warm, dry day, then humid, cool night, slight change in the timing and voila, won't start. Yeah, crafts and upholstery stores should have foam for cheap in LA, not doing the pillow thing, LOL! I won't predict anything on valve adjustment changes, but saw a smart kid's video of buying a crappy running 50cc scoot for cheap that wouldn't even start, so got a discount, on a nearly new scoot, he changed the valve clearances and that kid's little scoot like ours ran very smooth and quiet when idling. We'll see what happens after the adjustment, hopefully it sounds smoother, quieter.
i,see the weather takes a big part in ridging the scooter,on a kool to warm day,my scooter runs great,35 on a flat road,45 down hill--lol
Great information. Where did you get your speedometer setup?
stossone 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/8614/trail-tech-vapor-information-installation
what spring should i use for a 100cc big bore kit
where did you get the speedometer? sorry if i said the part wrong. new to the scooters and have been learning a lot from your channel. Just looking to upgrade to digital.
MMO Magictaru I got the Trail Tech from an eBay open box auction for $70. Usually over $100 for the kit.
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/8614/trail-tech-vapor-information-installation
I gotta put 7.5 and 8.3g rollers in my 50 with a "100" cc bbk that it doesn't work at 9300...I full tilt at around 78-8k. I like the take off of lighter weights but don't like the high revs. Hopefully it's okay and stays reliable
RPM may be a bit high for reliability with a 50mm+ bore.
where did you get that cvt thermometer?
Dude, your like, a scoot Genius..lol. Unfortunately, your videos are absolutely incomprehensible to me. But I never rode them much either. About a month or so ago, I purchased a 50cc Dongfang, used, oc, & I'm hoping to eventually learn something from your vids. I successfully, -somehow, installed my new 'high-performance' carb yesterday, & all went well, Thus far. But I'm having a bit of trouble fine-tuning it. Regardless, thnx!..
Fine tuning takes time. Not much way around that. You can speed it up with a wideband, but it's not worth it unless you tune a lot and you probably still will end up trying to figure out what to change to get what you want.
@@49ccscoot Yup, -never know if I'm too rich or too lean! One problem is though, when I'm parked and idling, Rev it, then it'll 'cough', rev up, then peter out and die. Last few days it's like that, new plug today, seems to drive worse..ugghh.. Thnx tho!
@@todprior43 For me, I'd go through a whole tuning process. Especially with a new carb. Start out by finding a main jet that works well. Then move on to needle and idle settings.
@@49ccscoot Right on, but what size main jet would you recommend? Since I talked to you last, I put in my new NGK plug, 'high performance' wire, & new CDI. {3-pack, new}. Run better/faster? Yeah, but also runs Hotter. It also changed the sound of the exhaust Entirely, -sounds like an old YZ80 Yamaha I used to have in '82! Lol.. {Which I thought was, Odd-?}.. I believe that might be a compression thing, but idk. Thnx for your replies & ideas, bud!✊😎..
@@todprior43 The jetting needed will vary by carb, engine setup, air filter, elevation, temp and humidity. This is why I say to tune it with a selection of main jets on hand and find out what works for you.
Do you have a gauge to tell you that it's running hotter or is that just a guess? If it's indeed hot, then it may be telling you that you need a larger jet or it could be that compression and/or timing are too high.
I'm thinking of lite duty eco speed mods for my gator 50. Opened air box. 90 jet. Drilled 5.3 gram rollers stock clutches. And springs. 40 on the flats. 48 down a hill. GPS. Climes better.Too.
Add the pickup mod that I've shown for free.
So I just purchased a used tao tao 50. You suggest I fix up and get it running then sell it ? By the looks of the videos, in which they are great, looks to me like its just problems after problems.
Thanks
If you think you can make a profit, by all means flip it and see if you can score a Japan/Taiwan/Euro made scoot. These scoots can be OK, but the higher tier stuff is definitely nicer. Some of my problems are just because I am trying to be consistent and most people would prob pay no attention.
***** Thanks for the reply, well I got it to work. It has the Japanese Carb already in it. Hit 30 mph is not time, but im only 155 pounds. Also I noticed that when riding through bumps and not even surfaces it shutts off. I searched and it has to be the the floats inside the carb. So I took the carb out, cleaned it and it turned right back on. I appreciate your videos and Thank You
Hi thanks for getting back to me i used a dinaflex and it ripped 4 teeth off and a Kevlar malossi and that's fraying on the two sides. i am sure the belt is the proper length. i have only just bought the bike and used it a few times it has a new variator and fixed pulley and 5.3 g rollers the clutch looks new. just got new contra and clutch springs hot fitted yet
it only seems to damage the belt when it locks up could it be heat seize
+simon crash Possibly. May be running too lean or overheating for some other reason. You should be able to look in the cylinder and tell if it's been seizing because it's probably scuffing/scoring the walls and piston. You may find that the spark plug is lightly colored. Could be as simple as needing a larger main jet.
I will try mod my new Lexmoto Diablo 125cc EFI scooter only get 55 on flat ,60 mph downhill
I think I just searched eBay for stick on thermometer, but there's a name and number on it if you look at the pics in the vid.
When I put an ssp-g bearing thingy my rpm was so damn high I couldn't use it.
Nice work ! Clutch. Rpm. Speed changes. Without reasons? I'm waiting on my belt to arrive for my new o7 gator 50. First scooter! My clutch is stock . torque. Drive may be stuck at times. 6.5 rollers. Opened up air box. 90 jet. Rich 3 slot needle. Position. 165 psi compression. Non resistor plug cap. It ran 40.mph And 48 mph down a hill GPS. It's fun and cheap to hot rod 50cc scooters ! Bill
That last sentence is a big part of why I got hooked on scoots. The problem is, it can still get expensive once you're obsessed. A lot cheaper than modifying cars though.
Hi I have a used 95mm. Nickel plate vari vs the 87mm. Stock one. Will I need a longer belt or is there enough shift left in the rear clutch for the belt to ride higher on the vari.for some more speed? And will the stock gy6 engine even have enough power to pull it off?
You'll need a longer belt to take full advantage of that much change in variator diameter. The issue then will be if the rear pulley is large enough to make use of it for takeoff.
Hi i am after some advice i have a honda x8r s 50 if i ride with WOT for more than a few yards or go down a hill faster than the speed the bike can go the engine feels like it locks up loses power back wheel skids. rides back home fine as long as i don't ride with WOT check the belt
and the belt has teeth ripped of or frayed i have put two new belts on this week
any info would be helpful thanks and keep up the good work
+simon crash Are you using quality belts? Cheap Chinese belts are known to fail. Have you gone over the whole CVT? If not, look up my vid "Full Service CVT Inspection". Clean and inspect the whole thing. Make sure you have the proper belt length for your scooter.
I have a spring base, ncy tq driver, 1500spring, 6gram rollers, with stock clutch springs, maybe it's the cam, or the ported head, maybe it moved the power curve higher, but mine is a straight up turd if it drops below 7kon a hill, i think I need 5-5.5 gram rollers, to keep the RPM higher, it really runs the best if I just let it eat! Give it light weights, a stiff spring, letting it spin around 10300,+/- at top speed, but the small valves looses power around 9800, I'm really hoping the ported oversize valve head does alot better, maybe enough flow to turn 11k +/-, I have titanium retainers, and stiffer springs than the ncy,11k spring set, do valve wise, it should be set go spin to 12k, +/-, I need to get a crank worked out! A stroker may be nice, but S200 is a bit much for a CV crank! (Speed cost $$, How fast ya wanna GO?) Horses are hungery, how many you want?? But I want to either get a decent aftermarket crank, with good bearings, and balance it, or a stroker crank, but I mainly want it to last, and get rid of the vibration, that seems to creep in, I guess it's from the bbk! It was over 10 years ago the last time I had a stock scoot, but I'm starting to think this scoot has gears in it, because it's a turd on hills, and take off, it bogs, it's it's best in town, around 10-20mph, it's almost fun, I hope the new engine works!
A lot of the stuff to make it work better at high RPM makes it work worse at lower RPM, but the 4Ts don't usually suffer too bad. That said, when you feel it pull at 9-10k and it drops out of the powerband, it probably does feel slow even if it's making OK power. I don't have hills around me to have any real experience with what makes the best climbing setup. I do know that all weaknesses will be exacerbated by operating at heavy load for extended times so stuff really needs to be dialed in.
Where did you get that speedometer with a digital readout, rpms, etc.? Is it expensive? I have a Tao Tao 50cc, but it's not digital.
It's a Trail Tech Vapor. They are somewhere around $100 for a kit. I really like it. My favorite gauge setup on any of my scoots. There's more info about it at this link... 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/6365/project-taotao-stroke-experiences-upgrades?page=1
Hey I got a problem with my taotao I think it's the clutch spring but wanted to ask you before I ripped it apart . I was riding last night and cruising around 40 mph and after about 10 mins it dropped off to 20mph almost immediately and a smell of burning rubber was noticed pulled it apart and the belt was fine. But I could hear a metal tick somewhere in the rear end. Got any ideas
Could be the contra spring or maybe rollers getting flat spots or something is dirty and not functioning properly. I like to keep the CVT clean so if it's been a while since a service/cleaning, I'd pull it apart and look it all over and clean/regrease the whole deal. You can also make sure your rear brake isn't dragging and since you smelled rubber be sure there are no signs of anything rubbing a tire and you have good tire pressure.
i was able to hit 46 mph on my tao tao lightly downhill (stock unrestricted), then my exhaust broke off and i had to swap on a new cylinder head. now i don't go over 32. it have tried multiple cdi, carbs, and so on but i can't seem to get my speed back. :/ the new used cylinderhead was identical to the old one
Start thinking about anything that happened that you were unsure of and checking things like cam timing, ignition timing, carb & CVT tune.
hi my name is joe ,i have a taotao 50cc scooter ,it want start so i replace the carb now it starts and runs good on the stand but if i put it on the road after half throttle don't pick up speed or rpm .tle spark plug is black so is too rich im trying to adjust the air and gas mix scru and is allway in i can"T go leaner any more also there 2 hoses by the intake one goes to the fuel valve the other one goes to the canister filter if i take the hose out and ploget it shoots off so drilled 2 smoll hole on the canister it stay running and still runs rich and no power on the road .i checked compression is 150 assumming is good . any thing else i can do ? thanks in advance .JOE
You need to really tune the carb. The mixture screw is not intended to handle the entire carb tune. Here's a bunch of info for you :
www.49ccscoot.com/faq/carbtune.html
another question. Do you know how to change the bearings on the clutch pully? The bearing farthest away from the plate feels very rough and i hear a bad rattling sound when the scooter is under load and it sounds like a bearing. I can't tell if the noise is coming from the engine or cvt but the bearing on the pully feels grindy and rough when i spin it.
First, spray it out with brake parts cleaner and re-grease to see if it feels smooth again. I've never changed the needle bearings on any of the pulleys before. It will have to be pressed or driven out from the opposite side or perhaps a puller from the rear of the pulley.
***** I was looking at a video for a non chinese scooter where he used a special tool to pull the needle bearing so he could get to the bearing at the other end, it looked the same as the chinese scooter pulley. Expensive tool though by the looks of it
i got my cluch replaced, but the vibration is still there, does it got to do with the belt? Thank u by the way
I wouldn't expect it to be the belt, but you could try swapping it if you have an old one or spare around and see what happens. If anything has been changed or taken apart recently before the vibration started, check that first.
Would 1500rpm contra spring work? i tried one in mine with 1500rpm clutch springs as well and it was slow and revved high.
It would need to be used with heavier rollers/sliders to get RPM back to where it needs to be.
You should make some of those roller pins for the tq driver! I'd give a couple $$ each for them!
I think it would be better handled by someone more capable in the material treatment bit. Hardness probably has to be right to avoid wear without wearing everything else or being brittle. Some of this stuff gets way more complicated than it appears on the surface. Plus, it would take me a very long time to make the parts to get hardly anything out of it. That's why you don't see me offering custom parts. Work all day for a $10 part with $7 of material in it.
Thanks for link! Btw, your videos are all excellent and have helped a lot to learn how to work on my Tao Tao 50cc scooter. Yeah, I like the looks of that set-up in that it measures the rpm's, so I'll be able to figure out my torque peak someday. My Tao Tao's carburetor really stinks and I'm guessing that the stock torque spring in the clutch is either super light, or defective somehow, because my scooter dies on all hills. Weirdest thing, the scoot goes 43mph to 50mph on a flat straightway to a slight decline and have a 1P39QMB stock engine, so found out from a guy taking apart his old 49cc scoot and his new Tao Tao and comparing on the video that the latter has a much bigger Bore, he said it's a stock 64cc engine and a much better engine than his old 49cc engine. Anyway, already with the stock engine I go down a hill and easily pin the speedo to about 54mph and know I'm exceeding that speed, so my stock speedometer doesn't measure my top-end speed and I want to put in a 100cc Big Bore kit and obviously a bunch of new parts in my CVT to resolve the hill issues and smell of gas by the carb after going up a hill...I'm sure I'm losing a lot of mpg due to this carb issue and weak torque spring and that's not good with high gas prices, plus it's embarrassing going up some of the steep hills in Westwood and having my scoot drop down to as low as 12mph....and that's another annoying thing about my speedometer, that's 10% optimistic according to a lot of people with scoots online and I'd say they're right, so I'm really going about 7mph up some hills and that's only twice as fast as I walk! Other than these problems, it's a great scooter and think I can get everything working perfectly, but think I'm going to have to change the crankshaft to one for a 125cc engine when doing the 100cc Big Bore kit because I've heard the smaller crankshaft in a 49cc engine can't handle the added power in a 100cc engine and think that's one of the things that causes the engine to seize when doing a Big Bore kit over 80cc. Then again, I'm not starting with a small 49cc engine anyway as the mark on my engine states definitively and this guy with the video says all the stock equipment in this 64cc engine are much bigger than with his old 49cc engine, not just a bigger Bore. Thanks again!
Thanks. Definitely check out your CVT tune. It does sound like a weak contra spring or perhaps the rollers are too heavy.
I don't know about the other parts in a stock 63-72cc stock engine. For the typical Chinese scoot the crank may fail quickly when you go above 47mm bore. A new stock crank from a Kymco that uses this engine or a Naraku HD are good options for a bit tougher crank that should swap in.
***** You're welcome. By the way, I read through your texts and pics on installing the Trail Tech Vapor and didn't see anywhere anywhere a gas gauge. Do you have one on the new set-up? I need the gas gauge, but don't want all the other things on engine temp, oil temp, etc. I just make sure all my things are clean, in good repair and listen/look for any signs of problems brewing. Anyway, yes, I will check out the CVT, but my scoot is working okay other than on hills and waiting to get the money for the Big Bore kit, all the other parts, plus that Trail Tech Vapor kit first. I don't like messing with things when they work okay, unless I'm going to do a big overhaul. Thanks for the advice on the Kymco crankshaft swap (nice scoots there). They have a dealer in Marina del Rey, so I'll ask the mechanic there about it. Luckily, I saved a lot of articles on scooter repair, modifications, etc. and this one mechanic said specifically the crankshaft bearings are the first to go on any Big Bore kit over a 80cc, but again I'm not starting with a 49cc stock engine, mine is just like yours and that's got much bigger stock equipment than a 49cc. I found on a parts website that the 49cc has a 39mm Bore and a 60cc Big Bore kit for that has a 44mm Bore, so I'm guessing that my 64cc already has a 45mm Bore, so a 80cc Big Bore kit is only 2mm bigger, not a big difference in power. The 100cc Big Bore kit will give me a Bore that is 5mm bigger, so that will give a significant increase in torque, but not a huge increase. If one goes from a 39mm Bore to a 50mm Bore, that's a huge difference, but that is not the case for a 1P39QMB engine as in our scooters. Funny, watching your videos, I assumed you had a 49cc scoot with the 139QMB engine, I didn't realize from your videos that you weighed in at 295 pounds! I thought you were about my size, maybe up to 30 pounds heavier. My scoot is faster because it only has to cart around 195 pounds, so 100 pounds lighter load! I thought I was a big guy and am, but you've got me beat and remind me of my old buddy from professional wrestling, he was 330 pounds though. I thought my scoot had a burden with me weighing a good deal more than the average person! I've taken a friend around for rides to places a few times and he's about 140 pounds or so and noticed that not as much power with us both on the scoot. Did you ever get rid of the oil leaks on the crankshaft seal?
chris962
There is no fuel level gauge. I use the trip odometer and known gas mileage average to tell me when I should be filling up. I do this on all of my scooters and I find it to give a better idea of actual fuel level than a gauge with non-linear travel that makes 3/4 to Full = 1/2 the tank. If I know I get 100MPG and I know I've gone 50 miles, I can be pretty sure I've got roughly 1/2 tank. I don't advise pushing the limits, but then I wouldn't do that with a stock fuel gauge either.
I got rid of the oil leaks for a little while. I replaced seal after seal. I gave up and decided it's so much easier to check oil very regularly and keep the CVT area clean. The leak got worse and I put another seal in not expecting it to do much and it sealed. Then it started leaking again last week so I'm back to just checking my oil each ride.
***** Wow! I never thought of doing it that way! I have no idea on my gas mileage with the odometer measuring in kilometers, gets me confused thinking in km and like measuring in miles much better. I always worry about running out of gas, but guess it's just as easy to keep an eye on the odometer. Oh, I was wondering if that magnet came with the digital speedo kit. Do you think the magnet can be installed near the existing puck gear in the stock equipment? I remember you read the instructions after you installed it on the left side and thought your remarks were funny! I gotta get a speedo like that Trail Tech vapor you got, it fits perfectly and is a nice one. Did you use the stock plastic cover? I saw in the video above that you had the same looking plastic cover as mine. Did you ever fix that left-side indicator on the LED? Was it just a bulb? Btw...What's your name? I'm Chris of course. Thanks again for all your help, great videos!
chris962 PS, bummer on the oil leaks. That can be a nightmare. I had an old used 1978 Honda Civic years ago and it had all sorts of oil leaks, burned oil, etc. I had a friend in the Air Force at the time re-build the engine for me, then the supports holding up the transmission broke suddenly, scrapped it. You got me thinking, I should check my oil right now! I checked it last week and the oil was clean and good level, but I ride a lot. I've got nearly 3,400km so far, no leaks so far at all. I'd say it burns a little between oil changes. I've changed the oil twice so far. I ready from one guy after watching your videos when it was new that one should actually wait a bit before changing the oil because the factory oil seals the engine, but can't remember if it was a Tao Tao or not. I was just a bit lazy, so waited close to 1,000km before changing the oil, gear oil and spark plug. Btw, weirdest thing, the scoot is riding better today, more power, better off the mark, went uphill very well in Manhattan Beach tonight and those hills are super steep. I think between your advice on the speedo, your site on installing the speedo, another mechanic online giving me a brief on how gears work to give you more top-end speed, etc. got rid of a lot of my angst on all the upgrades I have to make on my scoot. There was so much I didn't know, but know I just have to figure out how to change the crankshaft, find the right part at the Kymco dealer, figure out how to install that magnet, (figure that came with the Trail tech kit) and think I'll be able to figure the whole thing out and get my scoot fast enough and performing properly for me when I get the money for all the parts. Money isn't there now, but even if I came into a million tomorrow, the problem was figuring out all the details on how to get everything done myself. I'm pretty handy even if I make some mistakes sometimes, but I usually get it right eventually and things then work perfectly. I'm fairly certain that even at my fairly heavy weight, with a 50mm Bore and things running well, I bet I can get my scoot going over 60mph, a little decline and I think it can go 70mph. I don't need it to go that fast for the surface roads, but cars drive really fast on these wide roads in LA and it's safest if you can keep up with them. I figure I'll test out the speed on the 10 freeway once I get it running well to get the top-end speed. This freeway is pretty straight and flat near the USC area towards Santa Monica, so I'll be able to get a good idea of its top-end speed there once it's running well. That's the thing that worried me about the speedometer, I had no idea where to get a good one and was looking a lot online for a regular speedo like the ones on many 125cc and 150cc scoots I see at the UCLA scooter parking lot I see every day, they measure speeds from 80mph to 100mph, then I remembered seeing your digital speedo and thought that was a much better one!
hi i got a vibration on my cvt, when i got atleast 30 kph. What seems to be the problem?
Wheel/tire balance, wheel/tire out of round, a bent shaft, clutch or clutch bell imbalance. A few spots to check.
I have a power Max Taotao 150. It has been only 2 months ( 550 Km now ) since I bought that brand new. I am having the problem with the CVT. Whenever the scooter crosses the 35 MPH, a weird rattling sound. Where is the sound coming from? What is the possible solution ?
riazur rahman Is it throttle dependent or it will do it at any throttle position past 35MPH? If it's only with heavy throttle, maybe you are experiencing spark knock... could be running lean/hot or just need higher octane fuel. Maybe it's just something else on the scooter that happens to rattle at a certain RPM?
whenever I do the heavy throttle suddenly the rattling sound starts. But If i gradually increase the gas it does not make any sound to an certain speed of 40mph.
If you aren't already using it, let the fuel get low and then fill up with premium and see if it changes.
What type and brand CVT belt would you recommend ?
I prefer Bando belts. Just don't buy them if they're too good to be true, because there are knockoffs. No need for fancy kevlar on these.
THANK YOU you are the scoot man
How are you modifying your sliders to get such small weight adjustments?
I have sliders in 0.5 gram increments so I can stagger them to tune in 0.25g steps.
***** Thanks. I thought that that must be it but I haven't seen any sliders in half gram increments. I'll look harder.
treatland.tv carries a lot of .5g increments.
I have a 100cc big bore gy6 I replaced my clutch drive belt and variation when I accelerate downhill at top speed downhill it feels as if the belt is jumping or skipping. What could this be? Im losing 10 to 15 mph off top speed also slower acceleration. Can you help?
My first check would be to make sure the new belt matched the specs of the old belt.
It absolutely did! I have long case GY6 I took the clutch and variate brand new from a spare short case. Not sure of the rollers weight and it seems to be getting exceedingly worse give it gas from a stop and it’s awfully high in rpm no more jump off the line on when applying thriller on the road
Throttle and needing acceleration
@@davidkoontz2595 You may just need heavier weights.
HELLO THANKS TO GET BACK TO ME ,THE MAIN JET ON MY CARB DON'T HAVE NUMBERS ANY IDEA HOW I CAN BUY A SMOLLER OR BIGGER ?THANKS
A numbered jet drill set or torch tip cleaners would let you figure out roughly what you have... or you could buy a jet kit and start out larger than you think you need to.
ok ill do that thanks again
I did pretty find last summer with temps over 100 rideing all day long sometimes 2 hours at a time with out stopping but at lights and stop sighns yes the bike was hot and my ass was on fire from heat not anything elce I was amazed how my little scooter could hold up even when driving off road on dirt roads one thing I have troubles with is I cant have a headlight cus every time I install one it blows out quickly I even replaced the regulator wich gets hot and after replaceing with different ones same thing
Possibly the wrong recitfier/regulator or maybe the stator has an issue. Check the voltage getting to the headlights and check what the stator is outputting and check all grounds to make sure they're secure.
***** I have dun all that and am dumbfounded I would replace the stator but cant see doing it if the voltage comeing out is correct. the first time I replaced the regulator that was bad and headlight running light and taillight would go but now its just the headlight. I even wires my volt meter to it and watched it for a wile driving it and nothing but after I did and I went to start the bike the next day 2 minets later it blew again. I ant the only one with this trouble also I have seen others on the internet with the same thing
vorkev1 I had a weird issue with a short that did this. If it ever pops fuses or you find wiring starting to melt or connectors getting burnt it could be a short somewhere.
i realize this is a million years back, but did you ever try different greases? like the "super high temp" brake slider greases, or open gear lube? granted the steel in the running gear is obviously dead soft "chineseum alloy", but all that flinging and wear kind of screams out for thickier stickier goo (besides the obvious cry for a trip to the heat treatment shop for that "steel") with a "suitable for solar expeditions" heat rating, lol
I just used Mobil 1 synthetic grease. Works well in all my other scoots, aside from the TMAX that calls for BelRay Assy Lube.
@@49ccscoot mobil 1 best stuff
Where did you buy oil temperature gauge? Could you please give me the link thanks!
zach man You can get them on eBay and amazon. Just cheap Chinese gauges, but it is holding up so far.
amzn.to/1L30V8Z
***** Thanks !! I found this one www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-BLACK-2-52MM-DIGITAL-LED-OIL-TEMP-TEMPERATURE-GAUGE-METER-7011-/251583096063?hash=item3a938564ff&vxp=mtr
would this just go where the oil drain plug is? Thanks a ton love your videos!!!
You can see how I installed mine here : 49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/6365/project-taotao-stroke-experiences-upgrades?page=1
Hi sir, would it be possible if the upgrade that I just want to have is for my cvt and what could be its benefits and what could be its downside? I'm just don't want to lessen the gas mileage of my scoot.
Valor Miguel So you only want to upgrade the CVT? Any certain part or just tuning or what is it that you're interested in?
I'm still not certain, just recently I had my first long distance riding, my scoot's gas mileage for what I think is that It still costing me a lot of fuel consumption. I just wan't to know if can I give my scoot a power boost even it will lessen its fuel efficiency just for a LITTLE?
It depends how you ride. For example, if you put on a BBK and ride around at the same speeds and take off about the same as you did before, you'll prob find that you can get very good fuel efficiency still. If you put on a BBK and ride WOT all the time and take off as fast as it will go, you'll get worse fuel economy than before. Changing your riding style and being conscious of how much throttle you're using sometimes makes a big difference.
I see, like when we return home, for what i observed is that I have save more than a liter of fuel because our pace was already faster, So even thought if I tune up my scoot's engine, the fuel efficiency sometimes varies depends on how I ride?
Yes. In Update 2 of these vids I picked up 25-30MPG by riding different. I rode around at 30MPH at the lowest throttle position that I could. Open the throttle less and you'll burn less fuel.
No exhaust mods?
Not yet. There will be sooner or later.
by scooters from japan or Germany
Can you just put a bigger engine on to a frame of a 50cc gy6
150cc GY6 swaps are popular, but the engine mounts are not the same.
90GTVert so do you have to make new mounts
Some make them, some get a 150 mount and weld it in.
should I get this scooter
+Justin Galligan Depends what you want. I'd also advise checking for deals on used big brand scoots like Yamaha or Honda.
What dash is this? Where can It be purchased?
Here's a bunch of info on the Trail Tech Vapor :
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/8614/trail-tech-vapor-information-installation
thanks , also noticed you used a car air/fuel ratio gauge Is that easy to plumb in i didnt think they came with any sensors and It plugs into the cars O2 sensor? can you enlighten me?
The one I'm using is a whole kit from Auto Meter. You get the gauge, wiring, and the sensor. A bung has to be welded into the exhaust for the o2 sensor to screw into. Then the wires from the sensor go to the gauge and the gauge harness also has power and ground leads you have to hook into the scooter. It's got datalogger outputs as well (if you have a datalogger or laptop and software to record AFR as you ride for later viewing). If you can weld or have it welded, it's no more complicated than most other gauges really.
There are some pics of the install here :
49ccscoot.proboards.com/thread/6365/project-taotao-stroke-experiences-upgrades?page=1
Oh and the kits that use standard o2 sensors and not wideband o2s are not worth doing IMO. They work to some degree, but the wideband works very well. I had the other style in my car briefly and it was essentially just a light show unless it was way rich or way lean.
ok cool thanks, I might have a look at the one koso do thats pretty cheap
5.5 grams is too light for a 1000 rpm spring.
Hi there, when I lift the rear wheel up, there is some resistance when I try turning it, and some moving/grinding noise. Everything else seems fine. Is this normal because the wheel is somehow attached to the CVT/belt? Or should there be almost no friction when I turn the rear wheel? Thanks!...
It's normal to have some resistance. Make sure the rear brake isn't adjusted too tight.
I've got a Honda CH80 and the clutch is giving me similar issues. There is no aftermarket for this scoot.
So I'm not the only one scraping
Def not. Some get rid of the center stand to avoid it.
@@49ccscoot is there a way I can pm you I have some questions on my scooter
@@oustenpruitt3484 CZcams got rid of PMs. There's a whole group of scoot nuts on the forum. Just go to 49ccscoot.com and click through to it.
you can't get acceleration in a small engine, believe me, I've tried everything. my speed is only 3 to 4 km/h
You definitely can. It's more difficult with the little four-stroke, but my two-stroke can run with cars off the line and I'm 300 pounds. It's actually quicker to 30MPH than my 500cc TMAX is and not that far off in a 1/4 mile.
jesus that taotao has to be just a nightmare. you try to tune it to your taste and then it just spits at you and destroys the vario.
It's not my favorite.