recently i saw a video from the skid factory where he was prepping to dyno tune a RB with a haltech and they said the same thing, theyll land near each other up top and be angry so they moved their cam pickup to stay away from the same issue, fixed it right away.
Best description on the whole dang internet!!! If only I were wealthy enough to put that on my own car... 😢 Till then I'll keep my fingers crossed and keep running this dual sync. 😬
As someone who works with those mag sensors in industrial settings all the time.. you can be to far away and you will know because it won’t pick up the magnet/steel. Only way you can be too close is if it’s rubbing. So just an fyi if people worry theirs might be too close.
Very informative. I watched your Hyperaktive video a ton of times when I went to a 12-1 wheel. I like how you showed the cam sensor this time. When you are doing the static timing check does the cam sensor have any input?
Im dealing with issues on a gen7 BBC (PSI 8.8/535cubes) that has a 58 tooth crank reluctor and 1x cam sensor. Both are fixed in place (OEM) and not adjustable. I am running the termX system and not sure whether to set the custom ignition at 58x or 60-2. I have/had it running using custom settings at 58x crank and 1-pulse cam, with inconsistent results. (See my latest videos) Sometimes it runs and idles great, other times it goes flakey and loses the crank signal. I've tried multiple sensors and got same results. The sensor is located in the stock 8.1/496 location in the back of the block, bellhousing area on driver side about 10-11 O'clock position. Cam sensor is in the timing cover at approx same location as yours shown in video. Im guessing the crank reference angle is incorrect when I have it set at stock LS location/58x in the drop down menu and its causing errors, since the LS sensor is on passenger side of block. Unfortunately this tech is a little beyond my skillset, as i grew up on carburetors and points distributors. Any advice ? I have a Holley 12-1 crank trigger kit on order and hope that solves my problem.
Aren't you putting the sensor on the rising edge in the video? You said falling edge but it looks like you put it on the rising edge. Am I missing something?
Dumb question: On a SBF the stock timing pointer is on the passenger side. Is the process the same but just the timing marker is on the passenger side?
Is this the same 195° degree for the cam sync with other tooth count crank triggers or is this specific to the 12-1? I am also assuming the point of the missing tooth here is to give the cam sensor a chance to send a signal with no crank signal at the same time?
recently i saw a video from the skid factory where he was prepping to dyno tune a RB with a haltech and they said the same thing, theyll land near each other up top and be angry so they moved their cam pickup to stay away from the same issue, fixed it right away.
Best description on the whole dang internet!!!
If only I were wealthy enough to put that on my own car... 😢 Till then I'll keep my fingers crossed and keep running this dual sync. 😬
Another great video. Watch them all people !!!
Best video out there! Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Excellent job as always...making stuff clear and simple
Very informative, thanks for sharing!
Always so well and clearly explained. 👍👍
As someone who works with those mag sensors in industrial settings all the time.. you can be to far away and you will know because it won’t pick up the magnet/steel. Only way you can be too close is if it’s rubbing. So just an fyi if people worry theirs might be too close.
I wish the crank triggers had 12 holes v 6 but Hyperaktive makes a killer wheel!
Very informative. I watched your Hyperaktive video a ton of times when I went to a 12-1 wheel. I like how you showed the cam sensor this time. When you are doing the static timing check does the cam sensor have any input?
Im dealing with issues on a gen7 BBC (PSI 8.8/535cubes) that has a 58 tooth crank reluctor and 1x cam sensor. Both are fixed in place (OEM) and not adjustable. I am running the termX system and not sure whether to set the custom ignition at 58x or 60-2. I have/had it running using custom settings at 58x crank and 1-pulse cam, with inconsistent results. (See my latest videos) Sometimes it runs and idles great, other times it goes flakey and loses the crank signal. I've tried multiple sensors and got same results. The sensor is located in the stock 8.1/496 location in the back of the block, bellhousing area on driver side about 10-11 O'clock position. Cam sensor is in the timing cover at approx same location as yours shown in video. Im guessing the crank reference angle is incorrect when I have it set at stock LS location/58x in the drop down menu and its causing errors, since the LS sensor is on passenger side of block. Unfortunately this tech is a little beyond my skillset, as i grew up on carburetors and points distributors. Any advice ? I have a Holley 12-1 crank trigger kit on order and hope that solves my problem.
Are you going back together with it after sick week damage?
Yes
Aren't you putting the sensor on the rising edge in the video? You said falling edge but it looks like you put it on the rising edge. Am I missing something?
Dumb question: On a SBF the stock timing pointer is on the passenger side. Is the process the same but just the timing marker is on the passenger side?
Correct
Can you do a 4x cam sync on a Dart mk4 raised cam block?
Is this the same 195° degree for the cam sync with other tooth count crank triggers or is this specific to the 12-1? I am also assuming the point of the missing tooth here is to give the cam sensor a chance to send a signal with no crank signal at the same time?
Missing tooth verifies the location of #1
Your adjustment plate turned to full loch when you were locking down your sensor.
Yes
fueltech yawn
Random diagnostic aka misfire? Or do you prefer it to light the coils every time you key on ? And how bout that fuel model lol