Honeysuckle Jasmine | 10-Minute Fluid Hot Process Soap | Recipe in Details | Ultimate Guide to Soap
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- čas přidán 17. 03. 2020
- Join us today as we make our Honeysuckle Jasmine 10-Minute Fluid Hot Process recipe. We use a process called High Temperature Hot Process to make fluid beautiful hot process soap in less than ten minutes without the use of a crockpot or stove. Heat your oils up in the microwave for a fast and easy saponification process. This recipe is absolutely divine! It creates a beautiful soap that has a dense, creamy, and long-lasting lather, and a truly softening cleanse- perfect for those with dry, cracked, and irritated skin. Leave it unfragranced and uncolored for an ultra-mild bar. While the optional additives aren’t required, we absolutely recommend them to create the ULTIMATE hot process recipe!
www.ultimatehpsoap.com
Recipe Oils:
100% Coconut with 30% SF
33% Water as % of oils
(Lye based on your total oil weight used. We do not provide a specific oil amount so that you can resize the recipe however needed! This makes it super easy to calculate the recipe based on your own personal needs and mold size!)
Recipe Additives:
(TOW= Total Oil Weight; multiply the % by your total oil weight)
5% TOW Sorbitol
2% TOW Sodium Gluconate/Citrate
5% TOW Sodium Lactate
3% TOW Cetyl Alcohol
Mulberry Silk
Jasmine Flowers
Honeysuckle Jasmine Fragrance (Aztec)
To view the full recipe and others like it, please visit the Student Resources (for UG2HP Students at www.ultimatehpsoap.com/students) OR by joining The Ultimate Guide to Hot Process & Liquid Soap Facebook Group at / ug2hp
Copyright 2019 The Ultimate Guide to Hot Process Soap & The Ultimate Guide to Liquid Soap
Do you want to learn how to formulate beautiful, complication-free soap recipes, with the appearance, properties, and performance that you desire? The Ultimate Guide to Soap online soap making coursebooks will teach you how! Our books were written with one goal: to provide the ULTIMATE learning experience. We currently offer three books:
-The Ultimate Guide to Hot Process Soap: Soap Science, Recipe Formulating, Low Temperature., and 10-Minute Fluid Hot Process
- The Ultimate Guide to Cold Process Soap: Soap Science, Recipe Formulating, Methodology, Troubleshooting, and Design
-The Ultimate Guide to Liquid Soap: Soap Science, Recipe Formulating, Cold Process, Hot Process, & 30-Minute Liquid Soap
These aren’t your “average” soap making books. Instead, we offer an entire soap making COURSE, with all of the information that you need to be successful in one easy-to-find and understand book. Each book has more than 17 chapters and over 500 pages packed full of information, including chapter reviews, educational and soap science videos, ultimate experiments, tutorial videos, dozens of recipes and more. Students also receive free one-on-one student support from our team of amazing soap making teachers and access to free continuing education through our online blog. Get instant access- anywhere in the world, anytime! Prefer a device-free read? We have you covered and offer a print-copy for no additional charge.
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No more seizing.
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No more wasted money or failed batches.
Just beautiful, informed complication-free soap. Every time.
Learn all about:
The History of Soap
Saponification
Emulsions
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Acids, Bases & Salts
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How to Use a Soap Calculator
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30-Mnute Liquid Soap (yes, only 30 minutes!)
Soap Phases
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Copyright 2019 The Ultimate Guide to Hot Process Soap
Amazing hot process soap! I think this is one of the most fluid hot process soap recipes I have seen. Thank you so much for this video. I am certainly going to try it.
Thank you for share!!!
Really nice, Ashley! I just made the first version of 100% coconut oil soap a few days ago, but I made the 30% SF of almond, castor, shea, cocoa and coconut butters. The lather is awesome - feels like lotion, rinses easily, just beautiful. Love the book! ❤️
Hi can you give me your recipes
Missing your videos. Glad to see your hands again.
Thank you so much for the recipe! I've been enjoying fluid hot process too lately thanks to you! Anyway, please show us the cutting for your next soaps as well, it looks very satisfying lol :)
Beautiful
Very interesting technique and the first time I've seen cetyl alcohol being added to soap. 👏👍👌😊
I've seen it used in Conditioner bars and shampoo bara but never in HP soap.
Hi there. I'm addicted to your fluid hot process soap videos. I can't explain how amazing they are. I've repeatedly watched all of them and I hope you'll make more in the future. Also can't wait to try it out after my exams 😊
Thank you so much for the kind words! Good luck with your exams and keep us posted on your progress! If you haven't already, be sure to get your copy of The Ultimate Guide to Hot Process Soap: Soap Science, Recipe Formulating, Low Temperature & 10-Minute Fluid Hot Process Soap
@@THEULTIMATEGUIDETOSOAP definitely getting a copy because I want to be able to produce the same results 😊. Thank you!
tyvm
Thank you so much for doing these videos! I own two of your books and find I can understand the information in the book better when I see the process. I love that you are so practical with your soapmaking, ie. sugar for sorbitol, salt for SL. Do you have suggestions on where to buy the additives? I have learned so much from your books, thank you for sharing your knowledge.
You can purchase your supplies from any local supplier or an online cosmetic supplier. If in the U.S., we purchase many of our supplies from WSP, Soaper's Choice, and Amazon
For all those putting comments and questions: I am a new comer into the world of handmade soap. I purchased the Ultimate Guide 2 Hot Process book. It is a fantastic resource to everything about natural soap making. From the history of soap making, through the science and every other aspect of the art of making natural soap. In my opinion, the book should be rename; I would call it : The University of Natural Soap Making. it is truly a rich book. Even though I am older, and struggle to retain the knowledge I acquire with this book, there is NOT a question I have, that I cannot find the answer to in this book. It is a digital book, but I requested a printable version and I printed it myself. I have not connection to the writer , I’m not even part of the Facebook group, at least yet. I just love the book so much that seeing some of the posted questions, felt that it would be worth sharing my experience with the book.
What an amazing and beautiful comment! Thank you so much for taking the time to share your experience. We appreciate it more than you know!
Hi Ashlee, thank you so much for the recipe and demo. I'd like to know if the soap bars still shrink during curing, is there a significant difference in size and/or weight? Or the other way around, do I have to make the bars bigger to get the final weight and size or is it the same? Have you ever measured the difference in weight and size before and after curing? Thanks again. Much love from lockdown in Wales/UK.
Yes, they shrink depending on the water that is evaporated. You need to account for that when you cut the bars.
Hi, is it possible to achieve drop swirl with fluid hot process soap? If it is, can you please try it and make the tutorial?
Jojoba Oil- pronounced, "Ho- ho-ba". This recipe looks wonderful can' wait to try this method. Glad that you explain everything. Makes it easier to follow! 👍 💕
Goodness! Where did you put your gloves when loading the mold?
By the time it's moulded, it's already cooked so no need for gloves
@@cheryl739 Thanks for the clarification! Ashley experienced a very serious TBI when she was hit by a vehicle on her bicycle so she often has difficulty with her speech patterns, including word finding and pronunciation. Although she has used jojoba oil for decades, I will be sure to tease her about this and make sure she gets it right next time :)
-Susan @ UG2SOAP
@@cheryl739 Regarding your question about gloves- After the saponification process ("cook") is complete, the mixture is at a skin-safe pH and gloves are no longer mandatory for a safe soaping practice. Ashley elects to omit gloves during the design process so that she can have more control and precision. We practice and teach all proper lye safety and handling protocols and UG2SOAP and would never intentionally perform and/or share something that is unsafe.
-Susan @ UG2SOAP Team
Just a quick query. Can the sorbitol be subbed for an equal weight of sugar? Sugar assists lather formation in much the same way as sorbitol....and I HAVE sugar and I’d have to buy sorbitol lol
I just used sugar solution in mine and it worked! So stoked. Save your $money and use sugar ;)
I didn't know that I could use cetyl alcohol in soap. That's a great superfat alternative
Hi Ashley, this soap is beautiful and I’m sure your friend loved it! I have a question regarding the ingredients. Sodium Gluconate and Sodium Citrate are two different things, does that mean you can use either? Which one did you use and/or, prefer? You also mentioned it was a mix of Sodium Gluconate and White Kaolin Clay, but Kaolin Clay was not written in your recipe. Was the Clay in this recipe bc I LOVE ❤️ what it brings to a recipe! Thanks 🙏 for your time.
Hi-
Sodium citrate and sodium gluconate are two different additives that both work as chelators. You can use one or both, we prefer sodium gluconate. Before, it used to be a lot harder to find, but now its easily available right on Amazon. And yes, the clay was used as a colorant but also adds other properties as well
-Anthony @ UG2SOAP
This would be more like an HTCP (high temperature cold process) soap. I make hot process soap and it's normally ALWAYS "cooked" in a crock pot for at least 30 minutes, until it reaches the Vaseline stage or a finished temperature of 190°F. Tested with a PH strip, it should be between 8 and 10 PH. That way you know for a fact the lye is neutralized. Then, too, there's the "zap" test.
Bonjour et merci. Quelle est la marque et puissance de votre mixeur plongeant svp?
Can you substitute xylitol for sorbitol?
Hi. Thank you for sharing. Do you test the ph before molding?? What if saponification is not fully accomplished. Will it finish the process later in the mold? And how much do you wait before cutting the soap??
You can certainly test for the completion of saponficiation before molding; however, with experience in the process and proper formulating and preparation, this no longer becomes a necessity. With all saponification processes, both cold and hot, any remaining chemical reaction that has not yet taken place during production will take place in the mold. And last, the same rules for cutting apply to all soap making processes- when the soap is finished with the saponification process and hard enough to do so safely and without damaging the soap
@@THEULTIMATEGUIDETOSOAP thank you so much for this valuable information. I have just started using the crockpot and molded the soap when all was gelled. However i may have cut it earlier than I should and the soap crumbled. Ph was at 8 though so it was not lye heavy. However it contained clay that I had added with oils before adding the lye solution. I will try again and wait till it is hard enough to cut it. Thank you again.
Thank you, Ashlee! My favourite fluid recipe❤️ I tried adding frankincense pearls on top of my soap, sadly, 90% didn't stick😅
Oh no! If you have additives like those that don't stick into the soap, you can spray ethanol on the top layer of soap where you want to add them and then score the soap so it creates a sticky layer. These smaller embeds will happily stick to the top this way!
Hey great video. I noticed you used 2% of the sodium gluconate for a chelator, from my research most people recommend to use sodium gluconate/EDTA at less than 1 percent of their soap recipe. Is there a reason you add more? And what are the positive/negative impacts of adding more. Thank you in advance.
We calculate our additives as a percentage of the oil weight, not the total product weight, so we are actually using less when calculated based on the total product weight (based on supplier recommendation for EDTA and sodium gluconate). Additionally, we have not found there to be any adverse reactions or effects when using a higher sodium gluconate concentration (such as surface crystallization, gritty feeling, etc. that you might exhibit with sodium citrate or EDTA) and have used up to 2% of the total product weight in the past. For general use, we have found that 2-3% TOW provides ample chelation effects, increasing the lathering ability of the bar in hard water, while still remaining cost-effective. Hope that helps!
Hi, I don’t really understood how you heaters up your ingredients. You put them in the microwave? Thanks 😊 the soap looks amazing!
Barbi Papp Yes, she said she heats the oil up in
the microwave.
Must have missed it - what was the temp of the lye solution when you mixed it in with the oils?
Hi! I tried to do it but it didn't get fluid... 😫😫 what type of mixer do you use? Brand? ( sorry my english ) 😘😘
Thank you so much for sharing this process I have an issue with fragrances sticking in CP soaps what is the temp you add your fragrance oils at im worried about burn off in this process but afraid to wait to long for the temp to drop as I'm sure it will start to harden quickly ?
Be sure that you are using quality soap-stable fragrance oils from a reputable supplier. Not all fragrance oil companies are created the same, and many brands simply don't cut it when it comes to soap making (in my opinion). You can also use what we call a "fixative" such as arrowroot powder, kaolin clay, etc. to help bind fragrances when formulating your recipe. In our HTHP/HTFHP recipes, we add our fragrance oil at a temperature anywhere between 120-175F, all dependent on the temperature we are at the process.
Most suppliers should inform you of the flashpoint so just stay under that temp when adding your fragrances and essential oils
@@MultiHurtem The flash point is the lowest temperature at which a substance ignites if given an ignition source, which is not relevant in our process of soap making, as we do not have an ignition source (aka an open flame)
Hello, what is the role of cetyl alcohol in soaps? Beforehand thank you very much
You can find more information about that here:
www.ultimatehpsoap.com/post/what-the-suds-cetyl-alcohol-in-soap
Hi! Thank you for the recipe. How much lye have you used?
Also what is TOW. I don't understand the abbreviation.
Hi there! We don't provide a total recipe weight for this recipe, so you can use however much oil you would like to! This gives you the opportunity to resize the recipe as needed, based on your mold size or recipe needs. A standard loaf mold, like the one we used in this video, will use 32 ounces of oil. You would then enter that into your soap calculator with a 30%SF for the necessary amount of lye.
The TOW% is based on the Total Oil Weight. Again, depending on how much oil you elect to use in your recipe, you can calculate the additives based on this. If the recipe calls for 5% TOW sorbitol, and your recipe is 32 ounces, you would multiple 32 by 0.05 to get 1.6 ounces of sorbitol.
If you click on SHOW MORE and read through that, it explains everything, including what TOW means :) Total Oil Weight
Hey! thank you for this video! Can you please help me understand why this soap recipe doesn't go through the typical mashed potato and firm gel/vaseline phases in order to cook? I'm totally thrown by the lack of real change in the consistency as it cooked! I'm new to soaping but I understand all of the terms.
The "stages" a hot process soap can go through are not guaranteed and are absolutely not required for the saponification process. Some processes/recipes may have clear and defined visible changes in soap phases, while others may skip all or a portion of these. This specific recipe certainly goes through several visible changes or "stages" although they are less "defined" than many of the tutorials you will find online. You can see there is a type of "mashed potato" stage near 14:00 and then after gel (a phase of soap at higher temperature) is achieved. The additives and formula used do not provide the same "translucent" appearance of many other recipes in gel phase, so you can expect this to be different as well. We formulate and create our recipes specifically to have a fluid consistency when saponified, thus, we expect the smooth and creamy appearance you see in this video. Hope that helps!
Eric @ UG2SOAP
@@THEULTIMATEGUIDETOSOAP Hi Eric, are you guys still answering student emails? I bought the UG2HP book recently and sent several emails to the suggestion address as well as the chat window on the website, but haven’t received any responses yet. I’ve also created a login for the student resource section but it hasn’t been approved yet. Can you please advise me on how to get in touch with the student support team? Looking forward to your response!
@@Itsameamario34 Hello,
Thank you so much for your patience during our maternity closure. We had scheduled vacation time and then Ashley ended up having to stay the week in the hospital, so we are running just a bit behind.
I have completed and responded to all emails and chat messages that are in our inbox at this point, so I am wondering if we are not getting yours due to an issue with your email server or Outlook. Sometimes emails get blocked due to their spam filters, which can be really frustrating for everyone involved. If you would feel comfortable providing that here or reaching out to Ashley via Facebook messenger, we can see what is going on!
Eric @ UG2SOAP
Where did you get your soap cutter if you don’t mind my asking.
We made our soap cutter out of a $14 cheese slicer. You can find more information about that here: www.ultimatehpsoap.com/post/diysoapcutter
-Eric @ UG2SOAP
I am confused. I didnt see it go through a gel stage. Seems more like you blended to trace and was done. Is this soap really safe to use immediately?
HTFHP uses high heat, continuous mechanical mixing, and recipes formulated to rapidly saponify. This soap has undergone a complete saponification process by the time to additives are added and it is skin-safe for use after said process. Please keep in mind that just because hot process soap is safe for use "immediately" after unmolding, does not mean that it will not benefit from a cure. We highly recommend that ALL soaps cure, even hot process. Head on over to our blog for a great article about hot process curing!
-Ashley @ UG2SOAP
Please tell what is the quntity of all ingredients
If I only use 5% sodium lactate as an additive, do I keep the water at 33%? Will I still get this kind of fluidity? Or even just half of it? lol It's amazing! I'd like to do an unscented, uncolored soap and only have sodium lactate on hand.
Because of the chemical composition of the recipe, it should remain fluid without the other additives. If you have the sodium lactate, we would recommend using it!
@@THEULTIMATEGUIDETOSOAP And keep the water at 33%? That kind of scares me, lol.
@@leroybrownie9188 Increase it then! It won't do any harm!
where can I find the honeysuckle Jasmine recipe... been looking.
This recipe can be found in the UG2HP Student Resources in the online Recipe Book
-Anthony @ UG2SOAP
Could you suggest a substitute for Mulberry silk.plz
Hi-
You can use any silk as a replacement- mulberry silk, corn silk, tussah silk, banana silk, and so forth. It is not an essential ingredient in the recipe, but rather an additive that adds an extra lush and silky touch, plus label appeal.
Sarah @ UG2SOAP
Hi, is there a written recipe please?
❤❤❤please can you put out the measurements in kg or ml...thanks
Hi there! We don't provide a total recipe weight for this recipe, so you can use however much oil you would like to! This gives you the opportunity to resize the recipe as needed, based on your mold size or recipe needs. A standard loaf mold, like the one we used in this video, will use about 1000g of oil. You would then enter that into your soap calculator with a 30%SF for the necessary amount of lye.
The TOW% is based on the Total Oil Weight. Again, depending on how much oil you elect to use in your recipe, you can calculate the additives based on this. If the recipe calls for 5% TOW sorbitol, and your recipe is 1000g, you would multiple 1000 by 0.05 to get 50g of sorbitol.
After doing this soap. How many time it is ok to use please ?
After saponification is complete, soap is safe to use. We do recommend a full cure period for the best product.
How long did this take to fully cure?
All soaps benefit from a cure, including hot process. A full 6-8 weeks is recommended for the best results. You can find more information about curing hot process soap on our blog at www.ultimatehpsoap.com/post/the-hot-process-cure
I am in Nigeria. How do I get the book?
You can find our book on our website at www.ultimatehpsoap.com. It is available in electronic format so there is no shipping fees, wait time, or restrictions!
How is this 10 minutes?
It is!! From the time she started using the stick blender (7:51) to just the point where she started to divide the batch to add color 17:43. Ten minutes.
I'm not a soap maker. I just like watching the videos. I would leave out or speed up or at least turn the volume down on the nearly 6 full minutes of stick blending. But I have a feeling there is probably something educational I'm missing in those 6min? Anyway, I also want to say this video was otherwise very interesting. I've never seen hot process so smooth.
We don’t quite yet have the skills and knowledge when it comes to video editing yet because we are soap makers, not videographers or professional video editors. While it is certainly something we can consider editing out in the future, it will be when we have the ability to and can obtain the editing tools needed to do so. These things all take a lot of time to learn and the software is expensive, especially for non-technical people like myself, and we are currently still suffering from the loss of our business due to COVID. With the full video, soap makers can see what the entire process looks like, what the different phases of HTHP production look like (the visual “stages of HTHP”), and how long/what they can expect. If you don’t wish to view it, luckily there is a cool fast-forward button for now! Thank you again for your suggestion and for watching the video!
@@THEULTIMATEGUIDETOSOAP you're right that fast forward button is cool. Thanks for the tip!
So the crockpot is useless! : )
It is totally up to the user on which type of heating receptacle they like to use! I personally prefer to use a polypropylene bowl and the microwave for 2-15lb batches of bar soap, and love to use a crockpot for our 30-minute no-paste liquid soaps! Both work wonderfully, but a microwave heats up in minutes, while many crockpots require about half hour, increasing the total production time.