Good video of an unexpected repair job. The only additional thing I would like to have seen is the sashes going into the frame and the beads being replaced.
Can you do a video on how to seal around these type of windows. These types of windows you put all your trim around the window than , put the siding to the trim? Is there places you put caulking on and others you don’t so water can get out?
One of the greatest things about this style of window is that it's design emerged through centuries of struggle against the forces of nature. When it's assembled correctly, it pretty much sheds water on it's own. There are water entry points, but they are organically minimized simply by the cascading way everything overlaps. The way that the big red Spanish Cedar sub sill slides under the sill of the frame, and both slope to the outside of the house at 10 degrees - naturally shed water. The way the top sash overlaps the bottom, naturally sheds water. The way the casing covers and overlaps the frame and the house - naturally sheds water. Even when the casing sits on the top of siding, leaving little air holes - that's a big advantage allowing moisture to escape. What's crazy is that I caulked those little holes up, basically at the client's request. He thought we should put backer rod in there, caulk and so forth so as to seal things up ultra tightly. While I see the logic in that, it's important to understand that his request didn't come from his own long term experience in what it takes to make old house parts last the longest, he was influenced rather, perhaps by the painters who came before us who caused this rot we fixed to begin with, perhaps by contractors who deal mostly in new construction, perhaps by some architect friend or someone else with zero practical onsite experience. I mean really. The last people who did this window partially filled the weight pocket cavity with spray foam and cut off any water escaping with that blend of spray foam, caulking and paint that looks good when they leave, but ultimately causes what we saw in this video. My stance on most of stuff like this is to put it back to the way it was and it'll be fine for the longest possible period of time. Trying to innovate out of ignorance is a recipe for disaster.
Extra costs? This is what I call a "Total Window Makeover" package, and as such, everything is included. In reality, there are only three things that can be addressed on a historic window like this - the sash, the frame and the mechanics that sew the sash and frame together. The sash has a cost - whether restoration or joinery to create a new one, we cover both. The frame has a cost - whether restoring it, making a new part or making a new one - we cover it. And the mechanics is easy, once the sash and frame are right. All of these are predictable costs. If anyone claiming to restore windows is surprised by any of the things we covered in this video, its because they are missing one of the three major skills it takes to pull it off - Joinery, Carpentry or Finishing.
@@ikust007 It has to be the same price, otherwise I am punishing the client for my ignorance. A sash is a sash. I know how to restore and I know how to build. A frame is a frame. I know how to restore and I know how to build. Once a person knows these things, pivoting is easy. There are many frauds out there who claim to do what I do but can do nothing of the sort. I encourage everyone who wants to engage in restoring historic windows to learn Window Craft in its entirety. Any but is a disservice to the client.
Previous "repair" looks like house flipper work. LOL Not joking , that is what they do , cover it up make it disappear , dont spend money , find a fool, grab the money , move on.
Good video of an unexpected repair job. The only additional thing I would like to have seen is the sashes going into the frame and the beads being replaced.
Awesome videos! I live in Tampa too! I sent a message via your website, I was curious about the apprentice program. Keep up the good work!
Learn it while young, learn it forever
Any reason to why you used pine to replace pieces instead of sapele?
Thanks for making these videos.
Thank you Sir
I just found the same problem with spray foam behind a window -- wood there was much more rotten than anywhere else.
Can you do a video on how to seal around these type of windows.
These types of windows you put all your trim around the window than , put the siding to the trim? Is there places you put caulking on and others you don’t so water can get out?
One of the greatest things about this style of window is that it's design emerged through centuries of struggle against the forces of nature. When it's assembled correctly, it pretty much sheds water on it's own. There are water entry points, but they are organically minimized simply by the cascading way everything overlaps. The way that the big red Spanish Cedar sub sill slides under the sill of the frame, and both slope to the outside of the house at 10 degrees - naturally shed water. The way the top sash overlaps the bottom, naturally sheds water. The way the casing covers and overlaps the frame and the house - naturally sheds water. Even when the casing sits on the top of siding, leaving little air holes - that's a big advantage allowing moisture to escape.
What's crazy is that I caulked those little holes up, basically at the client's request. He thought we should put backer rod in there, caulk and so forth so as to seal things up ultra tightly. While I see the logic in that, it's important to understand that his request didn't come from his own long term experience in what it takes to make old house parts last the longest, he was influenced rather, perhaps by the painters who came before us who caused this rot we fixed to begin with, perhaps by contractors who deal mostly in new construction, perhaps by some architect friend or someone else with zero practical onsite experience. I mean really. The last people who did this window partially filled the weight pocket cavity with spray foam and cut off any water escaping with that blend of spray foam, caulking and paint that looks good when they leave, but ultimately causes what we saw in this video.
My stance on most of stuff like this is to put it back to the way it was and it'll be fine for the longest possible period of time. Trying to innovate out of ignorance is a recipe for disaster.
This video should be shown to the construction gentlemen … 2:13
how much did this work cost you?
Steve: but when something like that happens , how do you explain the extra costs to the client ? He was prepared ?
Extra costs? This is what I call a "Total Window Makeover" package, and as such, everything is included. In reality, there are only three things that can be addressed on a historic window like this - the sash, the frame and the mechanics that sew the sash and frame together. The sash has a cost - whether restoration or joinery to create a new one, we cover both. The frame has a cost - whether restoring it, making a new part or making a new one - we cover it. And the mechanics is easy, once the sash and frame are right. All of these are predictable costs. If anyone claiming to restore windows is surprised by any of the things we covered in this video, its because they are missing one of the three major skills it takes to pull it off - Joinery, Carpentry or Finishing.
@@WoodWindowMakeover but when you made the quote - budget, you didn’t know if all was rotten. Therefore it can’t be the same price .
@@ikust007 It has to be the same price, otherwise I am punishing the client for my ignorance. A sash is a sash. I know how to restore and I know how to build. A frame is a frame. I know how to restore and I know how to build. Once a person knows these things, pivoting is easy. There are many frauds out there who claim to do what I do but can do nothing of the sort. I encourage everyone who wants to engage in restoring historic windows to learn Window Craft in its entirety. Any but is a disservice to the client.
@@WoodWindowMakeover wouldn’t be possible in my trade . Good for you though.
@@ikust007 what trade are you in ?
What was the root cause is the rot problem? The spray foam? Should people that have spray foam in their houses expect problems like this?
Why wouldn’t you restore the pulleys?
Because these are press fits and are designed to be painted. If they were the flanged ones I would have.
Cut it twice and still too short!
Previous "repair" looks like house flipper work. LOL Not joking , that is what they do , cover it up make it disappear , dont spend money , find a fool, grab the money , move on.