Remember to replace the plastic protector that fits over the cylinder head and mounts to the radiator mounting pins BEFORE you reconnect the radiator and hoses. I learned the hard way.
The way it's shown the hose attached to the tee fitting on the vacuum tool is NOT an air hose, it's a vacuum hose. The point is to draw a vacuum on the cooling system. 20-25 inches of vacuum is drawing out about 80 percent of the air in the system, meaning that when you let the tool suck coolant in, you'll suck in about 80 percent of the available capacity. Sounds like it might not be enough, but having done this myself once, it works. Other thing is that to be correct, you should use "BMW Blue" coolant not some off the shelf generic stuff from Walmart. Peeps gonna argue about generic versus factory-approved coolant but the up-front price of the bike (and the consequences of getting it wrong) suggest that when you can do the right thing for not much money, why do something else? There are other CZcams videos showing how to refill the coolant system using this or another very similar tool, but it's the internet, and anyone can post a video. Thanks Matt, the vid was pretty clear and explains things about as well as could be done. Please rebut my "air line" versus "vacuum line" comment above, but I think I've got it right.
Matt, can the system be bled with the bike running? If not, must the plug be off for a proper bleed? And when you release the plastic 16mm bolt on the upper hose, does the bolt come all the way out or will it stay secure and just burp out the air once you loosen it a little?
MAtt, you don't happen to have a video of how to service the rear end of driveshaft and diff oil on this bike? It has no center stand and I don't have a stand for single side swingarm. Even w a stand you can't service the driveshaft itself (the sliding piece)
If you are doing the spark plugs and coil, do you need to bleed the radiator the same way? Does the radiator need to come off or it can just be pushed forward🙏
Matt, great video! Can you explain why it's best to perform this procedure with the bike on the side stand? I would think straight upright would be a better posture.
Hi Matt, thank you for the video, please, one question, I did the procedure yesterday with the same tool. When you are in the introducing liquid phase, Do you open the tool valve to the maximum or just a little? Does the speed of introducing liquid matter?. Also, In my case with the same starting pressure and preloaded tube the pressure decrease until 0. I dont understand why this is happening after following your instructions step by step. The final result was good though as the fan cycle correctly...Thanks a lot!!
I’ve had a pressure drop as well. It’s not uncommon for the pressure to rest at 0 occasionally. As long as the system fills and everything cycles like it should you will be just fine 👍. Thanks for checking out the video!
Good job... but if one wanted to fill the circuit in the traditional way (without pressurizing the system) would it be possible? or would you have problems with air bubbles? thanks for the reply.
Hill Country Intergroup when you attach the air to the tool the 25 that you’re reading is vacuum not air pressure. The tool uses air to pull vacuum if that makes sense. You can’t do what I’m doing in the video without the special tool
Hill Country Intergroup no the gauge is reading vacuum and the 25 is inches of mercury. It draws the vacuum when you hook up the air line to the special tool
@@MattsMotoWoRX Thank you for the response. I understand the process you are describing. I have a compressor so I can buy the tool and it will draw the vacuum. Thanks for your help.
I will never buy another piece of crap BMW bike...... A supposedly made Germany product I paid almost $20k for my K1200GT .... parts made in Hungary, Italy and other places and the failure of parts after (7) or so years I have replaced almost every part .... it started falling part at 30,000 miles ...... and the BMW service..... Screw me..... a fuel pump replacement $2,000 dollars .... What a rip off ..... Never again ......
I feel your pain. I have had my share of parts failure also. The shop charges way to much & some time they dont even get the work done right & your back again with a problem they caused. The whole time they act like your bike sucks & you should buy new one. They act like it isn't worth fixing if they cant figure it out or it's a repeat problem. I was blown away when I found all that stuff out. Just replaced my rear end with a used one off ebay. Had the shop rebuilt my old one, they changed all the bearings seals except for the input shaft bearing. Their work only lasted couple thousand miles, until my wheel could of locked up it was so bad. That was San Jose BMW. Take care. Bought a husky 701. It even has more parts failing than the BMW. Equality is hard to find now. MY MAICO BREAKO held up better than these new bikes. Lol.
Hi Matt, I purchased my first K1300S yesterday, 30th edition. All your videos are clear and well explained, well done and thanks!
Remember to replace the plastic protector that fits over the cylinder head and mounts to the radiator mounting pins BEFORE you reconnect the radiator and hoses. I learned the hard way.
Well done, great video, well explained all the way through.
Well done, very detailed, and explained well
Your Video is the best, simple and to the point, love it. please post a brake fluid change for the same bike. or K1200S thank you.
Nice video Buddy! Thanks for sharing!!
Thx Matt. Another great video
Well done mate, and I love the music to! bam bam bam.... :)
The way it's shown the hose attached to the tee fitting on the vacuum tool is NOT an air hose, it's a vacuum hose. The point is to draw a vacuum on the cooling system. 20-25 inches of vacuum is drawing out about 80 percent of the air in the system, meaning that when you let the tool suck coolant in, you'll suck in about 80 percent of the available capacity. Sounds like it might not be enough, but having done this myself once, it works.
Other thing is that to be correct, you should use "BMW Blue" coolant not some off the shelf generic stuff from Walmart. Peeps gonna argue about generic versus factory-approved coolant but the up-front price of the bike (and the consequences of getting it wrong) suggest that when you can do the right thing for not much money, why do something else?
There are other CZcams videos showing how to refill the coolant system using this or another very similar tool, but it's the internet, and anyone can post a video. Thanks Matt, the vid was pretty clear and explains things about as well as could be done. Please rebut my "air line" versus "vacuum line" comment above, but I think I've got it right.
Gday Matt, awesome videos mate. Do you have one for removing the radiator on the K1300 ? cheers from Australia
Matt, how did you drain the overflow tank before refilling? Thanks.
Matt, can the system be bled with the bike running? If not, must the plug be off for a proper bleed? And when you release the plastic 16mm bolt on the upper hose, does the bolt come all the way out or will it stay secure and just burp out the air once you loosen it a little?
MAtt, you don't happen to have a video of how to service the rear end of driveshaft and diff oil on this bike? It has no center stand and I don't have a stand for single side swingarm. Even w a stand you can't service the driveshaft itself (the sliding piece)
If you are doing the spark plugs and coil, do you need to bleed the radiator the same way? Does the radiator need to come off or it can just be pushed forward🙏
What is the amazon part number for your bleed tool-want to order the correct one that works for the BMW K bikes, thanks in advance, very helpful
Hi, well done, thanks for videos, one question, how strong air compressor should be to get necessary vacuum in system?
Aure P A small 5-10 lb compressor will work well
Matt, great video! Can you explain why it's best to perform this procedure with the bike on the side stand? I would think straight upright would be a better posture.
The full cap is the highest point on the bike while on the side stand
@@MattsMotoWoRX Thanks Matt!!
Is this the same process for the K1200S?
What year bike is this
Hi Matt, thank you for the video, please, one question, I did the procedure yesterday with the same tool. When you are in the introducing liquid phase, Do you open the tool valve to the maximum or just a little? Does the speed of introducing liquid matter?. Also, In my case with the same starting pressure and preloaded tube the pressure decrease until 0. I dont understand why this is happening after following your instructions step by step. The final result was good though as the fan cycle correctly...Thanks a lot!!
I’ve had a pressure drop as well. It’s not uncommon for the pressure to rest at 0 occasionally. As long as the system fills and everything cycles like it should you will be just fine 👍. Thanks for checking out the video!
Good job... but if one wanted to fill the circuit in the traditional way (without pressurizing the system) would it be possible? or would you have problems with air bubbles? thanks for the reply.
It can be done traditionally but it’s a bit of a pain
still own this bike?
Why can‘t you just fill the system up through the radiator cap, like other bikes?
At 4:52 you attach an "air line", is that from the compressor OR is it from a vacuum
pump. Could you give more details about this, please?
Hill Country Intergroup I attached an air line from a compressor
@@MattsMotoWoRX So you put 25 pounds of pressure in the radiator like you would in a tire?
Hill Country Intergroup when you attach the air to the tool the 25 that you’re reading is vacuum not air pressure. The tool uses air to pull vacuum if that makes sense. You can’t do what I’m doing in the video without the special tool
Hill Country Intergroup no the gauge is reading vacuum and the 25 is inches of mercury. It draws the vacuum when you hook up the air line to the special tool
@@MattsMotoWoRX Thank you for the response. I understand the process you are describing. I have a compressor so I can buy the tool and it will draw the vacuum. Thanks for your help.
I will never buy another piece of crap BMW bike...... A supposedly made Germany product I paid almost $20k for my K1200GT .... parts made in Hungary, Italy and other places and the failure of parts after (7) or so years I have replaced almost every part .... it started falling part at 30,000 miles ...... and the BMW service..... Screw me..... a fuel pump replacement $2,000 dollars .... What a rip off ..... Never again ......
I feel your pain. I have had my share of parts failure also. The shop charges way to much & some time they dont even get the work done right & your back again with a problem they caused. The whole time they act like your bike sucks & you should buy new one. They act like it isn't worth fixing if they cant figure it out or it's a repeat problem. I was blown away when I found all that stuff out. Just replaced my rear end with a used one off ebay. Had the shop rebuilt my old one, they changed all the bearings seals except for the input shaft bearing. Their work only lasted couple thousand miles, until my wheel could of locked up it was so bad. That was San Jose BMW. Take care. Bought a husky 701. It even has more parts failing than the BMW. Equality is hard to find now. MY MAICO BREAKO held up better than these new bikes. Lol.