Thank you sir. Yea that stuff is bad news Mine looked fine on top but it was a mess underneath. It’s time well spent getting rid of it. Thanks for watching and commenting
I know that my boat is the same way. My boat is waaaay to heavy for an 18.5v. I plan on gutting mine soon. Thanks for posting this video. I look forward to seeing your progress on this boat. God bless👍
Thats polyurethane foam,not styrofoam.Polyurethane will absorb water over time where styrofoam will not.Big difference.Iv,e sprayed thousands of pounds of the stuff in my lifetime.Styrofoam is what they use for floatation in dock,s because it will not absorb water and it doesn,t go bad other than wear.You keep calling it styrofoam when it,s not.Styrofoam is actually polystyrene.
Can't wait to see this all done! I wonder if this is the reason in my 2021 tracker all the foam is inside plastic. My boat never freezes since its inside but this is great info Jeff!! Thanks!
Went through the same thing with over 500lbs of foam removed. Picked up 6 mph on the top end when I tested the boat no foam. I’m actually pouring the new foam today. I definitely wouldn’t run the boat without it. I took water over the bow in the bar crossing at my river entrance when I took it for the test run without the foam and almost lost the boat. There’s a reason the USCG requires it under 20’. Good luck and be safe!👍
You Sir are an awesome teacher. New Subscriber :) You break it down and it makes perfect sense. I'm starting a restoration on a boat I bought for $100 from my Father in Law, that I found laying in the weeds. It's a simple 1960 aluminum 12' Meyers Laker 12 "Row Boat" (max 10hp) and I purchased a beautiful and runs great, 1964 Johnson 9.5hp 2 stroke just for this boat. I called Meyers boat company and they sent me "for free" a new capacity sticker. SWEET :) Ohio ODNR has issue me a H.I.N. because it never had one when it was built. From your videos, I have learned how to remove and install rivets. I have to remove all 3 seats and replace the floatation foam (over 150 rivets) but I want to do this right. Floatation foam must be used in the event that the boat gets swamped with water so it doesn't sink to the bottom of the lake. I think of it as good "invisible" insurance and cheaper than hiring a S.C.U.B.A. diver and recovery. :)
Air mattress or tire tube Fiberglass the air stems for access to pump up 12 volt compressor cut slots in the floor for drainage 1 gallon empty water jugs glue lids use plumbing straps to hold them down
Finally someone who really understands it. There's so much misinformation out there about foam, and a lot of it just didn't seem right to me. This explanation makes sense. I have an old fiberglass boat with a foam floor/hull, it was damaged from the underneath and water had got in. Even after giving it ages to dry, I tried patching the holes but they just re-wetted. Think I'm going to have to remove the foam like you have done. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for this... I have a 1998 16/51 Excel mod v boat I use to fish and duck hunt out of. It has a tall transom and when I am at a decent speed. 1/2 to WOT, and I slow down, the back of the boat settles down and the water swamps the back of the boat. I am going to get down into the boat and check to see if this is what is happening soon.
Wow!! Thats a good thing to know about styrofoam.since i am removing the back floor wood and under it ,it has styrofoam,and from your video i am going to take of those styrofoam. I will follow u for more video ideas as i go on fixing my boat floor.thanks
I removed almost 400 lb of wet foam and wood from it. Your boat will sit so much better in the water. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
The big picture is that the cell membrane over not so long of time is water permeable. All of it. Iso is probably the best yet it too will soak up water totally. Boston whaler used Iso foam between the hull skins they started building in the sixties in ten years they began to fail. When the outer fiberglass skin was removed time and time again showing the entire foam core was saturated, totally. If you have foam you are going to have soaking foam in time. Something else such as a bladder needs to be used for flotation purposes. A bladder could be pressure checked occasionally to see if it was water logged. Regulations requiring the covering to be removable to inspect for damage would enhance their performance. Foam is just not the answer.
Jeff, thanks for the video. Could you comment on repairing a waterlogged fiberglass boat? I’m interested to know what the level of effort would be to fix one. Blessings from Fredericksburg, Virginia.
Fiberglass is a different beast for sure. You can cut the old waterlogged foam out but you have to reinstall.because the foam adds rigidity. Good luck and thanks
I like you're Videos. Tip Bilge Pump Mount on small Aluminum Plate, wrap entire Pump and Plate with Black Fiberglass Mesh, Ny Tie tightly shut voila ..no more Pump stoppage from Foreign Debris.
@@bowl830 You're Very Welcome. You have the best Boat Videos so far I have seen. As the owner of a scabby 22 foot Star-craft I learned quite a bit watching you're Videos. Thankyou for you're Time.
Well I ripped all the pour foam out of the boat. I have a few corroded spots on the floor and a few ribs. I filled the boat up with some water & checked for leaks. No leaks at all. Some of the corrosion is pretty bad. But not leaking. Bottom of the boat on the water side looks brand new. It was never painted. Maybe a clear coat not sure. Anyway, I washed inside of boat real good. Sprayed with vinegar and scrubbed. Then I washed and scrubbed with AlumaKleen. Worked pretty good. My question is what do, I do with the corrosion / pitted bottom inside the boat. DO I filled pitted areas with something or just leave it alone? Any help or suggestions would be great. I herd that JB Weld has metal in it which I think would cause more corrosion. Whats your thoughts on this problem.
I’ve had great results with cleaning as you did then roughing surface and then putting Gflex epoxy on the pitted areas. It makes them smooth and helps protect the weakened area. Thank you for watching and commenting
Great video, had the same problem in a fiberglass boat, top foam dry but wet under! I wonder if you cored out a 2" or even 4" or so hole in the floor down thru the foam to the waterlogged part, would the water collect there so it could be vacuumed or pumped out gradually???????
Maybe. The last Carolina skiff I seen had this problem believe or not they drilled the entire hull flipped it and Let it set outside on a rack and drain for 7 months. It still was almost dbl the original gross weight. They knew they had a problem when it was tearing out transmissions in pull vehicles and broke a trailer axle lol
I just did this on a old tracker. I bet I took 150plus pounds of waterlogged foam. 30-40 pounds of water logged dirt out of the entire boat. I’m going back with the pink 2” foam under my floor but there are some areas I’ll be putting pour foam back in. The way I see it the boat it 30 years old if I do it this way I won’t have to worry about it in my lifetime. Then eventually another guy can have a project boat with his kids like I’m doing.
I am ass deep in my 96 tracker pro angler V-16. All stock but I swear it was built on July 3rd on a Thursday and free beer after work. They filled the boat with pour foam which plugged all the drain holes. I got the same water soaked foam I got about 100 lbs. my thought presses is building walls so down the center is a foot wide and open. Then if I have to saw any over expanding paint it with flex seal.
Thanks again just have a question about inside aluminum of the boat. Maybe you said or has been answers in the comments that I didn't see. If it is wet and is not the greatest shape.. how do I need to clean it, and what do I put on to stop the corrosion??????
I use cleaner degreaser and a stainless brush to clean most times. If it’s a hard place to get to I use a low grade acid cleaner like AC coil cleaner. Just make sure you rinse it extremely well to remove it. If it just a little putting. I usually feel comfortable with a good coat of epoxy to fill the voids do water can’t just lay in them. Thank you for watching I appreciate it
Brother I e redid 5 old boats one was a 2009. And everyone one looked great when the floor was pulled. But when I cut the foam out it was wet. I’m going to weigh this stuff when it’s all out to see but I’m guessing 300-400lb of waterlogged foam. And I bet the plywood is going to be close to 150. I’m going back with blue foam sheets.
@@dougredden6127 I’m gonna lay on edge in most areas. With the tow outer pieces touching the bottom but the rest in each section being 1/2-1” off hull, that way it can dry out and sir can circulate
I pulled 1 full piece out of one stringer about 8ft long and 10 inches wide that weighed over 80 lbs. That was the small piece. The center stringer was 2 times bigger and 3 times heavier. In total I pulled about 500lbs of wet foam out.
Polyethylene is a closed cell foam. It looks kind of like styrofoam as it has a bead appearance. It will not absorb water like the spray in foam. There are different types, pool noodles for one. But there is a type that really cant be compressed much at all and will actually spring back if you do try to compress it. Pink foam is polystyrene. Im not sure its a good choice because it is not very chemically stable (gasoline? ). Bet it is not coast guard approved. Heres a link to a video. go to 15:15 and 21:36. czcams.com/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/video.html I just ripped the foam out of my boat and replaced it with the stuff used in the video. Should really watch all the video. These guys do awesome work.
Whats the advantage of replacing that foam vs just not putting it back? I removed most of mine and didn't put any back. There is a little left. I left it because it "looked good". I do believe ill be removing it now. If i did have some pitting would i be able to save it by using brazing rods?
Slight pitting can be fixed by cleaning and using a quality epoxy to seal the area. I’ve put new skin over pits before then epoxied them together. I’m sure I’m gonna find some. As for floatation it helps with water noise and it’s does buy you time if you have a minor issue. My big boat has sheet foam in it. And if my math is correct, it’s not enough to float it completely but it would be close to neutral. So it should stay near surface lol
I have some slight pitting above the water line on the sides. New skin like the liquid bandaid? Lol ill try that. It going to be awhile before mines on the water. Got down to wateree and hydraulic fluid started leaking... Thanks for the info! Look forward to the build
I think that the boat floor needs to be sealed to keep the water out. That pour in foam is good only for fiberglass boats where under the floor is completely sealed off by the fiberglass floor and the water on the floor runs back to the Bilge pump and rear plug compartment, which is completely sealed off from under the floor. If water gets under the floor, it is coming from a bigger problem like a hole in the Hull of the boat when the boat is built properly with a sealed floor.
I agree. I remove pour Foam from any boat I ever owned. The trouble it causes isn’t worth it. I use sheet foam and leave a gap between it and the skin. This allows air and water to travel to the back. Thanks for watching and commenting
Hi, my grandpa's old aluminum fishing boat was left outside, uncovered, through all 4 Michigan seasons for about 15 years. The wood is in surprisingly good shape, but I'm replacing it anyway because although it is not completely rotted, it is water logged. How can I tell if I need to replace the foam?
typed that before watching the whole thing. I'm guessing the answer is going to be yes, pull the foam. How necessary is it to replace? Great video, by the way, very helpful. Subscribing :-)
Me personally I always put some form of closed cell foam back in. It helps with sound as well as buying you a little more time if you do have a issue on the water. Pour in foam adds rigidity to the hull but is a pain lol. There’s another video on adding foam flotation to that boat.
@@Jesse3beards thank you. I use foam sheets the non porous closed cell. I give several reasons why you should go back with something. Thank you for watching
only bad thing about open areas,. is if you get a hole in the hull or you get a wave over and get swamped you will sink quicker than you can put a life jacket on. Even this foam as bad as it seems will displace water should you get swamped and would keep you at least partially floating. The soaked part offers no floatation, but the dry top is displacing water at a rate of 8+ pounds per gallon. Foam buys you time to react and and gives you a fighting chance rather than and instant sink, and trust me once water starts coming in, if it's not partially displaced it doesn't take long to get bad. I removed about 600 pounds of foam and 200 pounds of flooring from a 19' Mako and will be replacing with a combination of pink/blue board and pour foam. My boat lasted over 50 years being a 1969 so I will not have to do this but once on this boat.
I suspect my 15.5 foot aluminum 1990 Legend has waterlogged foam . It has not been in the water for 3 years as it sits in my driveway with the bow up at about 20 degrees to allow water to drain out the back . Would drilling a few small 1/4" holes in the floor then using a hot prod to melt the foam , then use a dry prod to check for water on the bottom ?
@@bowl830 Thank you for the quick reply ! I did some investigating today and found this boat has a channel about 16" down the middle with no foam ,but there's foamabout 16" on both sides . I checked a few spots and everything seems dry , but it has had 3 years to dry . I also used a plant moisture meter to push through the foam in 3 spots . I believe when I get water in the boat it simply runs down the middle channel and out at the transome plug . This seems like a good idea , ever heard of such a system?
The 2” stuff is just easier to cut into shapes and fit into the hull. But if I had the big billets like your talking about I’d use them for sure in big sections. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
Only tip raise and lock motor. Take your hand and push down on foot. Look to see if the upper part starts flexing and pulling away from the splashwell. Or cracks opening along the well also.
I’ve heard that slot since I posted that video lol. Sadly every boat I ever owned that had foam. The foam was completely water logged. I’m redoing this one with all sheet closed cell foam.
This guy doesn’t know his foams. This is two part polyurethane foam, sold a waterproof, it never was, especially as quality control when mixing and pouring is not good. Styrofoam is an extruded polystyrene foam, it is truly waterproof. Will not take any water into its core, though the surface can get wet. This is the best product to use. Expanded polystyrene is a bead board, the beads are expanded in the factory and fill the spaces between themselves…but not fully, and can take up some water. Ok to use if the area can be drained.
Not sure where you read that but closed cell will absorb water when damaged. As for strength it depends on the load rating of the foam on how much force it takes to compress. Normal closed cell like used in marine application is mid range because of weight and cost.
@@bowl830 Polyethylene is a closed cell foam. It looks kind of like styrofoam as it has a bead appearance. It will not absorb water like the spray in foam. There are different types, pool noodles for one. But there is a type that really cant be compressed much at all and will actually spring back if you do try to compress it. Pink foam is polystyrene. Im not sure its a good choice because it is not very chemically stable (gasoline). Heres a link to a video. go to 15:15 and 21:36. czcams.com/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/video.html I just ripped the foam out of my boat and replaced it with the stuff used in the video. Should really watch all the videos. These guys do awesome work.
Hi Bryan, honestly, how useful do you think your suggestion is? Most people that are searching for solutions to rebuild their little aluminum boats can find to buy only two-part pour foam or insulation foams from the big box stores. After watching terms of videos about adding foam to a small boat, I concluded that the best choice available from a price and resilience standpoint is XPS foam. It's true that this foam would melt in contact with gasoline, and as solution, I'll place my gasoline containers in an special built aluminum waterproof box and use a "nospil" gas can (which I used for four years and never spilled gas on boat or water) to contain any potential mishaps when refilling with gas.
@@iBaloo42 I gave the solution. Polyethylene foam. Its available as pool noodles or can be purchased in sheets. So all in all, Honestly, pretty useful. How useful is it for a small boat builder to have to get an aluminum container to hold the gas tanks??? I build lots of stuff out of aluminum, how much for a guy to buy a tank that fits his boat????
The polyethylene foam mentioned is sold as an industrial product typically used as a shipping and packing material. The cost to ship it is usually more than the material cost from a local extruder. If unable to locate a local source it’s available at an otherwise unattractive price from Penn-Elcom a supplier of materials for fabricating a type of rugged transport case favored by the entertainment industry.
You can't use the word "styrofoam" when you're not talking about styrofoam...styrofoam is the white beady stuff that comes as packing. It's the same as if you're talking about rutabagas but keep using the word "carrot" every time. The foam you're dealing with in your boat is called "Pour-foam" There's also spray-foam and the purple stuff that comes in sheets at Big Box stores. There's green sheets too. Just like every vegetable is not carrot, every type of foam is not styrofoam. These words refer to specific things. I have to translate everything you're saying. It's aggravating. But, I'm now convinced that I will not install this pour-foam in my boat as I was planning so I'm both irked and happy. I think I dodged a bullet. I was going to fill the entire bilge on my 23 foot cuddy.
Thanks for watching but I hate to break it to you but Styrofoam is closed cell extruded polystyrene.XPS. You’re thinking of expanded polystyrene. EPS That’s the white stuff.
@@bowl830 You're correct. I am thinking of expanded polystyrene., and so would most of the population when they hear the word styrofoam. We've been drinking our coffee out of "styrofoam" for decades. You are, of course, as a quick search on google proves, correct. But, people still call cicadas locusts. What are ya gonna do?
Great educational video about how foam soaks up water
Looking forward to the boat build 👍
Great video. Looking forward to seeing more. Thanks for sharing 👍
Appreciate you watching thanks
Great video! Thank you sir, this changed my mind on keeping the old foam in my boat
Thank you sir. Yea that stuff is bad news Mine looked fine on top but it was a mess underneath. It’s time well spent getting rid of it. Thanks for watching and commenting
Great video Jeff!!! I’m going to enjoy watching this boat build.
Thanks buddy
What an awesome idea.
And that would not keep that boat floating. Great presentation Jeff! Looking forward to the next videos on the build.
Thanks brother.
I would've never thought. Kind of out of sight out of mind. Thanks for the information. Looking forward to the next one.
It’s amazing how it can be dry as dust then soaked in 1”. Thanks for watching
Thanks for sharing have a blessed day in the name of Jesus
Wow that's wild! Never would have thought it would hold water like that.
Very interesting. I knew nothing about marine foam before this.
I've been excited to see this series come together. Keep em coming Jeff!!
Ready for this rebuild .. Man that 1 chunk held more that 1 gallon of water. #400 is probably going to be close. Thanks for sharing Jeff
I know with the waterlogged plywood I’m going to be right at 400. Still tearing out and weighing lol
Great information Jeff great show
Thank you brother.
I know that my boat is the same way. My boat is waaaay to heavy for an 18.5v. I plan on gutting mine soon. Thanks for posting this video. I look forward to seeing your progress on this boat. God bless👍
Thanks brother. I’m going to weigh all this foam. I’m sure it’s gonna be crazy heavy.
Oh the joys of removing the foam. I had horrible time removing all of mine. I removed over 1100 lbs!!!! Thanks for sharing!
HOW BIG WAS UR BOAT LOL
Keep the video's coming I am an aircraft mechanic... new to boats you are educating me, thank you
I appreciate that. Thanks for watching and commenting
Thats polyurethane foam,not styrofoam.Polyurethane will absorb water over time where styrofoam will not.Big difference.Iv,e sprayed thousands of pounds of the stuff in my lifetime.Styrofoam is what they use for floatation in dock,s because it will not absorb water and it doesn,t go bad other than wear.You keep calling it styrofoam when it,s not.Styrofoam is actually polystyrene.
Lots of great info...THX One thing I never thought of is freeze and thaw info THX
Thank you sir. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Can't wait to see this all done! I wonder if this is the reason in my 2021 tracker all the foam is inside plastic. My boat never freezes since its inside but this is great info Jeff!! Thanks!
Went through the same thing with over 500lbs of foam removed. Picked up 6 mph on the top end when I tested the boat no foam. I’m actually pouring the new foam today. I definitely wouldn’t run the boat without it. I took water over the bow in the bar crossing at my river entrance when I took it for the test run without the foam and almost lost the boat. There’s a reason the USCG requires it under 20’. Good luck and be safe!👍
Awesome man. Like you I won’t run without it. It gives you time.
Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it. Good luck with your project
You Sir are an awesome teacher.
New Subscriber :)
You break it down and it makes perfect sense.
I'm starting a restoration on a boat I bought for $100 from my Father in Law, that I found laying in the weeds.
It's a simple 1960 aluminum 12' Meyers Laker 12 "Row Boat" (max 10hp) and I purchased a beautiful and runs great, 1964 Johnson 9.5hp 2 stroke just for this boat.
I called Meyers boat company and they sent me "for free" a new capacity sticker. SWEET :)
Ohio ODNR has issue me a H.I.N. because it never had one when it was built.
From your videos, I have learned how to remove and install rivets.
I have to remove all 3 seats and replace the floatation foam (over 150 rivets) but I want to do this right.
Floatation foam must be used in the event that the boat gets swamped with water so it doesn't sink to the bottom of the lake.
I think of it as good "invisible" insurance and cheaper than hiring a S.C.U.B.A. diver and recovery. :)
Thank you you made my day. Good luck with your project.
I appreciate the sub as well thank you
looking forward to the project Jeff, Please make sure the fixing up another boat virus is not contagious as I am in the high risk age! "Just Sayin"
I’ll wear a mask and wash my hands a lot😂😜 Thanks for watching
Air mattress or tire tube Fiberglass the air stems for access to pump up 12 volt compressor cut slots in the floor for drainage 1 gallon empty water jugs glue lids use plumbing straps to hold them down
thanks for taking time to do stuff like this
Appreciate you watching thanks
This is gold.
Thanks brother.
Finally someone who really understands it. There's so much misinformation out there about foam, and a lot of it just didn't seem right to me. This explanation makes sense. I have an old fiberglass boat with a foam floor/hull, it was damaged from the underneath and water had got in. Even after giving it ages to dry, I tried patching the holes but they just re-wetted. Think I'm going to have to remove the foam like you have done. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching and taking time to comment I appreciate it. Good luck, I hope you get her all squared awayv
Water is about 8lbs a gallon.Thanks much for your info.
Thanks for this... I have a 1998 16/51 Excel mod v boat I use to fish and duck hunt out of. It has a tall transom and when I am at a decent speed. 1/2 to WOT, and I slow down, the back of the boat settles down and the water swamps the back of the boat. I am going to get down into the boat and check to see if this is what is happening soon.
Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it
Wow!! Thats a good thing to know about styrofoam.since i am removing the back floor wood and under it ,it has styrofoam,and from your video i am going to take of those styrofoam. I will follow u for more video ideas as i go on fixing my boat floor.thanks
Your welcome. I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Goooooood viryi goood 🎣🎣 le
Thanks I appreciate it
When it breaks down to that level it is more of a sponge than flotation. That 10 lb section you weighed is holding more than a gallon of water.
thanks for the video, now I have to take all of it out of my boat . But its worth it.
I removed almost 400 lb of wet foam and wood from it. Your boat will sit so much better in the water. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
The big picture is that the cell membrane over not so long of time is water permeable. All of it. Iso is probably the best yet it too will soak up water totally. Boston whaler used Iso foam between the hull skins they started building in the sixties in ten years they began to fail. When the outer fiberglass skin was removed time and time again showing the entire foam core was saturated, totally. If you have foam you are going to have soaking foam in time. Something else such as a bladder needs to be used for flotation purposes. A bladder could be pressure checked occasionally to see if it was water logged. Regulations requiring the covering to be removable to inspect for damage would enhance their performance. Foam is just not the answer.
Jeff, thanks for the video. Could you comment on repairing a waterlogged fiberglass boat? I’m interested to know what the level of effort would be to fix one. Blessings from Fredericksburg, Virginia.
Fiberglass is a different beast for sure. You can cut the old waterlogged foam out but you have to reinstall.because the foam adds rigidity. Good luck and thanks
I like you're Videos. Tip Bilge Pump Mount on small Aluminum Plate, wrap entire Pump and Plate with Black Fiberglass Mesh, Ny Tie tightly shut voila ..no more Pump stoppage from Foreign Debris.
Awesome tip. Thank you for commenting I appreciate it
@@bowl830 You're Very Welcome. You have the best Boat Videos so far I have seen. As the owner of a scabby 22 foot Star-craft I learned quite a bit watching you're Videos. Thankyou for you're Time.
You need a open area in the centre bottom front to back for air and drainage
Well I ripped all the pour foam out of the boat. I have a few corroded spots on the floor and a few ribs. I filled the boat up with some water & checked for leaks. No leaks at all. Some of the corrosion is pretty bad. But not leaking. Bottom of the boat on the water side looks brand new. It was never painted. Maybe a clear coat not sure. Anyway, I washed inside of boat real good. Sprayed with vinegar and scrubbed. Then I washed and scrubbed with AlumaKleen. Worked pretty good. My question is what do, I do with the corrosion / pitted bottom inside the boat. DO I filled pitted areas with something or just leave it alone? Any help or suggestions would be great. I herd that JB Weld has metal in it which I think would cause more corrosion. Whats your thoughts on this problem.
I’ve had great results with cleaning as you did then roughing surface and then putting Gflex epoxy on the pitted areas. It makes them smooth and helps protect the weakened area. Thank you for watching and commenting
try to put the foam on a plastic bag to avoid water and put a panel over it or glue the plastic bag to the boat.
Great video, had the same problem in a fiberglass boat, top foam dry but wet under!
I wonder if you cored out a 2" or even 4" or so hole in the floor down thru the foam to the waterlogged part, would the water collect there so it could be vacuumed or pumped out gradually???????
Maybe. The last Carolina skiff I seen had this problem believe or not they drilled the entire hull flipped it and Let it set outside on a rack and drain for 7 months. It still was almost dbl the original gross weight. They knew they had a problem when it was tearing out transmissions in pull vehicles and broke a trailer axle lol
That's nuts! Will that happen to newer boats? I have a 2012 that's been full of water a few time but always garage kept. Happy Fishing!
Getting full of water ain’t the problem it’s that it gets trapped on the older boats or the foam goes bad and turns into a sponge. Thanks for watching
I just did this on a old tracker. I bet I took 150plus pounds of waterlogged foam. 30-40 pounds of water logged dirt out of the entire boat. I’m going back with the pink 2” foam under my floor but there are some areas I’ll be putting pour foam back in. The way I see it the boat it 30 years old if I do it this way I won’t have to worry about it in my lifetime. Then eventually another guy can have a project boat with his kids like I’m doing.
I am ass deep in my 96 tracker pro angler V-16. All stock but I swear it was built on July 3rd on a Thursday and free beer after work. They filled the boat with pour foam which plugged all the drain holes. I got the same water soaked foam I got about 100 lbs. my thought presses is building walls so down the center is a foot wide and open. Then if I have to saw any over expanding paint it with flex seal.
Thanks again just have a question about inside aluminum of the boat. Maybe you said or has been answers in the comments that I didn't see. If it is wet and is not the greatest shape.. how do I need to clean it, and what do I put on to stop the corrosion??????
I use cleaner degreaser and a stainless brush to clean most times. If it’s a hard place to get to I use a low grade acid cleaner like AC coil cleaner. Just make sure you rinse it extremely well to remove it. If it just a little putting. I usually feel comfortable with a good coat of epoxy to fill the voids do water can’t just lay in them. Thank you for watching I appreciate it
Thanks for posting this. I'm rebuilding a 2000 targa 18 and was wondering about what to reform with, whether sheeting or mix.
Brother I e redid 5 old boats one was a 2009. And everyone one looked great when the floor was pulled. But when I cut the foam out it was wet. I’m going to weigh this stuff when it’s all out to see but I’m guessing 300-400lb of waterlogged foam. And I bet the plywood is going to be close to 150. I’m going back with blue foam sheets.
Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it
Are you going to lay foam flat or on edge?
@@dougredden6127 I’m gonna lay on edge in most areas. With the tow outer pieces touching the bottom but the rest in each section being 1/2-1” off hull, that way it can dry out and sir can circulate
Thanks for the info.
Put that FOAM on a STOVE...to dry it out.
Oops...disregard...you'd end up with:
FOAM, FOAM on the range.
Ok you’re banned from ever commenting again 😂🤣😜
Thanks I have 1985 hydro sport I'm taking out everything. I have to do it like you said. 400-600 extra pounds is very bad.
Awesome. It’s amazing how much a difference it makes
@@bowl830 So it's best I rip it all out and add new foam.
I understand to more water in the boat is bad.
I'm gonna do that today
If you can get to it and it’s bad take it out. It will only help
When I do mine I want to make it where I can plug in a dry air blower to circulate air through the hull
We call that ‘Colorado’
I wish the foam came up that easy in my tri-hull
Lol I got lucky for once
I pulled 1 full piece out of one stringer about 8ft long and 10 inches wide that weighed over 80 lbs. That was the small piece. The center stringer was 2 times bigger and 3 times heavier. In total I pulled about 500lbs of wet foam out.
It’s crazy. I bet the top was dry lol. I guarantee you will see better performance. Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
Ok problem identified. What is the solutions?
Poluretyan foam need use
Polyethylene is a closed cell foam. It looks kind of like styrofoam as it has a bead appearance. It will not absorb water like the spray in foam. There are different types, pool noodles for one. But there is a type that really cant be compressed much at all and will actually spring back if you do try to compress it. Pink foam is polystyrene. Im not sure its a good choice because it is not very chemically stable (gasoline? ). Bet it is not coast guard approved. Heres a link to a video. go to 15:15 and 21:36. czcams.com/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/video.html I just ripped the foam out of my boat and replaced it with the stuff used in the video. Should really watch all the video. These guys do awesome work.
Whats the advantage of replacing that foam vs just not putting it back? I removed most of mine and didn't put any back. There is a little left. I left it because it "looked good". I do believe ill be removing it now. If i did have some pitting would i be able to save it by using brazing rods?
Btw i like the layout of the boat!
Slight pitting can be fixed by cleaning and using a quality epoxy to seal the area. I’ve put new skin over pits before then epoxied them together. I’m sure I’m gonna find some. As for floatation it helps with water noise and it’s does buy you time if you have a minor issue. My big boat has sheet foam in it. And if my math is correct, it’s not enough to float it completely but it would be close to neutral. So it should stay near surface lol
I have some slight pitting above the water line on the sides. New skin like the liquid bandaid? Lol ill try that. It going to be awhile before mines on the water. Got down to wateree and hydraulic fluid started leaking... Thanks for the info! Look forward to the build
I think that the boat floor needs to be sealed to keep the water out. That pour in foam is good only for fiberglass boats where under the floor is completely sealed off by the fiberglass floor and the water on the floor runs back to the Bilge pump and rear plug compartment, which is completely sealed off from under the floor. If water gets under the floor, it is coming from a bigger problem like a hole in the Hull of the boat when the boat is built properly with a sealed floor.
I agree. I remove pour Foam from any boat I ever owned. The trouble it causes isn’t worth it. I use sheet foam and leave a gap between it and the skin. This allows air and water to travel to the back. Thanks for watching and commenting
@@bowl830 sounds like a good idea. I might try that on the boat I am working on now. I just posted a video on the demo of the boat.
Hi, my grandpa's old aluminum fishing boat was left outside, uncovered, through all 4 Michigan seasons for about 15 years. The wood is in surprisingly good shape, but I'm replacing it anyway because although it is not completely rotted, it is water logged. How can I tell if I need to replace the foam?
typed that before watching the whole thing. I'm guessing the answer is going to be yes, pull the foam. How necessary is it to replace? Great video, by the way, very helpful. Subscribing :-)
Me personally I always put some form of closed cell foam back in. It helps with sound as well as buying you a little more time if you do have a issue on the water. Pour in foam adds rigidity to the hull but is a pain lol. There’s another video on adding foam flotation to that boat.
Do you have a vid on foam replacement on this boat,great content
I used solid boards. There’s a video. Not sure the title lol Thank you for watching I appreciate it
@@bowl830 your content is great, btw awesome cat fish, what cow!!
@@bowl830 I'm going with the solid too, I must have pulled out 400 lbs of saturated pour foam And plywood. Tight lines my friend.
Thank you I appreciate that. You made my day
I wish my foam came out that easy !!!!!!!!!!!
Lol. I know how you feel . I did a Smokercraft a few years ago, it took all weekend.
What would you replace the foam with? Seems to me you might as well leave it empty, since at least empty room won’t soak up any water that gets in.
There’s a video in this series that talks about that. Thanks for watching
@@bowl830 thanks, I’ll check it out
@@Jesse3beards thank you. I use foam sheets the non porous closed cell. I give several reasons why you should go back with something. Thank you for watching
only bad thing about open areas,. is if you get a hole in the hull or you get a wave over and get swamped you will sink quicker than you can put a life jacket on.
Even this foam as bad as it seems will displace water should you get swamped and would keep you at least partially floating. The soaked part offers no floatation, but the dry top is displacing water at a rate of 8+ pounds per gallon.
Foam buys you time to react and and gives you a fighting chance rather than and instant sink, and trust me once water starts coming in, if it's not partially displaced it doesn't take long to get bad.
I removed about 600 pounds of foam and 200 pounds of flooring from a 19' Mako
and will be replacing with a combination of pink/blue board and pour foam.
My boat lasted over 50 years being a 1969 so I will not have to do this but once on this boat.
Can this be done to a v hull angler boat?
Yes sir. I’ve done a few
I suspect my 15.5 foot aluminum 1990 Legend has waterlogged foam . It has not been in the water for 3 years as it sits in my driveway with the bow up at about 20 degrees to allow water to drain out the back . Would drilling a few small 1/4" holes in the floor then using a hot prod to melt the foam , then use a dry prod to check for water on the bottom ?
I would bet it’s got water logged foam. But you never know. That’s a lite boat. I’d check it if it was mine for sure.
@@bowl830 Thank you for the quick reply ! I did some investigating today and found this boat has a channel about 16" down the middle with no foam ,but there's foamabout 16" on both sides . I checked a few spots and everything seems dry , but it has had 3 years to dry . I also used a plant moisture meter to push through the foam in 3 spots . I believe when I get water in the boat it simply runs down the middle channel and out at the transome plug . This seems like a good idea , ever heard of such a system?
Yes sir. A lot of manufacturers started doing that. Foam holding water has been a major problem for them
What about using a blue dock billet in place of 2 inch panels ?
The 2” stuff is just easier to cut into shapes and fit into the hull. But if I had the big billets like your talking about I’d use them for sure in big sections.
Thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
So I just got a boat 1984 all the floor board is rotted since I'm replacing the board should I just replace the foam 🤔
I would.
I have the exact boat. What type of foam should I be replacing this with?
I used 2” sheet foam from Lowe’s I used the pink. It’s made for direct contact with soil and damp conditions
I appreciate you watching
Thanks!
You have tips on testing the transom?
Only tip raise and lock motor. Take your hand and push down on foot. Look to see if the upper part starts flexing and pulling away from the splashwell. Or cracks opening along the well also.
That is not Styrofoam. It appears to be a liquid foam
What are you going to replace it with !
I use closed cell sheets. Theres a video showing it. Thank you for watching and commenting
Makes we wanna strip my boat out.
I’ve heard that slot since I posted that video lol. Sadly every boat I ever owned that had foam. The foam was completely water logged. I’m redoing this one with all sheet closed cell foam.
The think that sucks is i will have to put all new foam back for a fibreglass one.
It’s a job for sure thanks for watching and commenting I appreciate it
Did you tear your boat down?
Not my Starcraft. This is a tracker crappie boat I’m about to build
I'm building a 1709 bluefin spectrum atm. I'm making it into a cat rig/crappie rig. I just have a little wiring to do and then on to the deck.
Cool. I love building old boats. Good luck with. Post some pictures when done.
Do you have Facebook?
Yes sir team Reelin the blues. Is one. You can find me under my name to.
Id lay off the finger food for a while..
This guy doesn’t know his foams.
This is two part polyurethane foam, sold a waterproof, it never was, especially as quality control when mixing and pouring is not good.
Styrofoam is an extruded polystyrene foam, it is truly waterproof. Will not take any water into its core, though the surface can get wet. This is the best product to use.
Expanded polystyrene is a bead board, the beads are expanded in the factory and fill the spaces between themselves…but not fully, and can take up some water. Ok to use if the area can be drained.
Real closed cell will not absorb water. Manufacturers are cheaping out and not using closed cell! You can not compress closed cell foam like you did.
Not sure where you read that but closed cell will absorb water when damaged. As for strength it depends on the load rating of the foam on how much force it takes to compress. Normal closed cell like used in marine application is mid range because of weight and cost.
@@bowl830 Polyethylene is a closed cell foam. It looks kind of like styrofoam as it has a bead appearance. It will not absorb water like the spray in foam. There are different types, pool noodles for one. But there is a type that really cant be compressed much at all and will actually spring back if you do try to compress it. Pink foam is polystyrene. Im not sure its a good choice because it is not very chemically stable (gasoline). Heres a link to a video. go to 15:15 and 21:36. czcams.com/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/video.html I just ripped the foam out of my boat and replaced it with the stuff used in the video. Should really watch all the videos. These guys do awesome work.
Hi Bryan, honestly, how useful do you think your suggestion is? Most people that are searching for solutions to rebuild their little aluminum boats can find to buy only two-part pour foam or insulation foams from the big box stores. After watching terms of videos about adding foam to a small boat, I concluded that the best choice available from a price and resilience standpoint is XPS foam. It's true that this foam would melt in contact with gasoline, and as solution, I'll place my gasoline containers in an special built aluminum waterproof box and use a "nospil" gas can (which I used for four years and never spilled gas on boat or water) to contain any potential mishaps when refilling with gas.
@@iBaloo42 I gave the solution. Polyethylene foam. Its available as pool noodles or can be purchased in sheets. So all in all, Honestly, pretty useful. How useful is it for a small boat builder to have to get an aluminum container to hold the gas tanks??? I build lots of stuff out of aluminum, how much for a guy to buy a tank that fits his boat????
The polyethylene foam mentioned is sold as an industrial product typically used as a shipping and packing material. The cost to ship it is usually more than the material cost from a local extruder. If unable to locate a local source it’s available at an otherwise unattractive price from Penn-Elcom a supplier of materials for fabricating a type of rugged transport case favored by the entertainment industry.
You can't use the word "styrofoam" when you're not talking about styrofoam...styrofoam is the white beady stuff that comes as packing. It's the same as if you're talking about rutabagas but keep using the word "carrot" every time. The foam you're dealing with in your boat is called "Pour-foam" There's also spray-foam and the purple stuff that comes in sheets at Big Box stores. There's green sheets too. Just like every vegetable is not carrot, every type of foam is not styrofoam. These words refer to specific things. I have to translate everything you're saying. It's aggravating. But, I'm now convinced that I will not install this pour-foam in my boat as I was planning so I'm both irked and happy. I think I dodged a bullet. I was going to fill the entire bilge on my 23 foot cuddy.
Thanks for watching but I hate to break it to you but Styrofoam is closed cell extruded polystyrene.XPS. You’re thinking of expanded polystyrene. EPS That’s the white stuff.
@@bowl830 You're correct. I am thinking of expanded polystyrene., and so would most of the population when they hear the word styrofoam. We've been drinking our coffee out of "styrofoam" for decades. You are, of course, as a quick search on google proves, correct. But, people still call cicadas locusts. What are ya gonna do?
@@choimdachoim9491 guilty as charged I call them locust lol. Good luck with your project and again I do appreciate you watching and commenting