How to pour expanding flotation foam in a boat hull - How to Build a Boat Part 10
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- čas přidán 15. 10. 2019
- The tenth video in the how-to build a boat series shows how to use two-part expanding urethane pour foam. This is closed cell, 2 lb density, US Coast Guard approved for flotation. Before adding the foam, we'll add a drain tube for the front compartment and seal both ends with thickened epoxy to eliminate possible water intrusion. After the foam cures, we'll trim it flush.
www.saltboatworks.com You can build your own boat using our plans and instructional videos! These stitch and glue boat plans are for a light, compact and stable solo skiff to access shallow water. The solo skiff plans include full size templates of each part for you to trace and cut out yourself. They also include detailed assembly drawings. The boat combines the features of a paddle board (SUP), kayak, and jon boat to deliver a multi-purpose boat that can be handled by one person. This small skiff can be built in roughly 50 hours and costs less than $1000 in material! These plywood boat plans are perfect for a first time builder with basic carpentry tools. It can be paddled or powered with a trolling motor or 6hp max. The 6hp cruises at 15 mph. The FRS-12 boat plans come with full size patterns, which eliminate measuring, lofting and all guesswork, and are available for purchase on our website. www.saltboatworks.com/product...
The FRS-12 boat plans come with full size patterns, which eliminate measuring, lofting and all guesswork, and are available for purchase on our website.
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Glad you are back! I need to go back to the beginning and rewatch the first videos!
Watching foam rises is so relaxing
Every boat that hase foam in it is nothen but water logged
When will you add video #11, etc...?
Do you have a rough idea of how many cubic feet you had to fill? And did you use all two gallons?
Can you us this for installation for a outdoor storage
Can you link to the foam itself?
Good video
Well done
I have an important addition to make. urethane foam produces gas that can cause asthma in some people. For those sensitized, this can occur at concentrations that are not detectable buy smell. IE: before you can smell it. I had very mild 'weasy' asthma as a kid that would be dust aggravated but the attack I had after pouring foam was, according to my doctor, "potentially fatal"! It was like slowly drowning, Prednisone eventually got it under control. I worked with this foam occasionally for years before this event and did not get a reaction. Read up the national safety guides folks, wear a carbon filter mask, and air out the shop well. I still get an asthma response if I cut old foam out of chambers, even wearing a mask.
Need to use a 2 cartridge hazmat respirator when dealing with any product that produces gas if you're sensitive. I have obstructive Asthma. Not a k95 covid piece of crap.
Would one be able to leave the middle unfoamed? Looking to turn that into a rod compartment. Would just doing the outsides make it less stable?
No, we use the foam to provide structural support.
How many gallons of product did it take to complete the project seen in this video. I need to fill a space of approx 16 Sq ft. I'm having a difficult time determining how much product I need. Thanks
Hello! If you did decide to seal the exposed foam, what would you use? I understand it probably isn’t needed, but thinking of doing it anyway just in case
You can use resin
@@saltboatworks1139 but wht brand of resin??? What type
Seem like it would make finding leaks impossible
Can you use this to seal a room built on a patio that leaks?
No. It you mean a patio room that’s drafty, the choices are (1) to lift the flooring and put in a heavy polyethylene sheet vapor barrier or (2) apply tyvek or other brand draft blocking sheet to the underside of the joists in the crawl area. If you mean water is wicking up into a room built on a slab adjacent to a patio, the problem will be that there is wood in contact with concrete that is wetted. Concrete might as well be a sponge. Add flashing behind the siding for the lower of the wall and under the wood in contact with the concrete. To do that, after removing siding and draft wrap, cut and remove 24” of sheathing to un-secure any hurricane tie-down straps or tie bolts and plates, add a 2x10 temporarily where the siding was and lift the building just enough to put the flashing under with bottle jacks. One small inexpensive hydraulic jack every 6 feet is better than using a small number of large jacks. Lift evenly and just enough to slip the flashing under. Let the building down evenly then fold the flashing up the wall. Remove the temporary beam, restore tie-downs, replace sheathing and draft wrap, flash behind siding before replacing siding. If you will pay someone else to do this, it’s around an hour of labor per linear foot of perimeter, plus the present cost of 2x10’s, 1 ton bottle jacks, 10” aluminum roll flashing, 36” aluminum roll flashing, 36” tyvek roll material, 1 lb of #8x1-1/4 stainless screws for reattaching the sheathing, 1 lb 12p common nails to secure temporary beam, 1 lb hot dipped roofing nails to secure the flashing. If existing sheathing was installed using nails, also 1 sheet sheathing plywood per 16 linear feet. For diy include tin snips, drill driver, hammer, wrecking bar, cats paw, level, etc. if known to be without built w/o tie downs and none are required in your area, leave draft wrap and sheathing in place, find and mark stud centers.
How many litres of the 2 part kit did you need for this video to achieve this result?
@George Parmer yes, you can get styrofoam for free. And its weight can be 50% less
@@maxmackinlay618 Styrofoam melts down with almost all the resins. But you can use with epoxy.
I'm confused about the point of the foam, if all compartments are fully sealed ?
Emergency floatation, even if the hull is compromised it won't flood with water.
Should have glassed around the drain pipes. It will flex causing it to lose seal.
Good eye, not shown here (because we forgot to film it) we used 5200 to seal in the front compartments and transom.
Belleza de trabajo,
Hot wire is the only way to get a true clean cut. You can find how to make it on Utube.
100lb braided fishing line like piano wire, works well if you have a base to pull across
Pvc pipe, for what use/purpose
Thanks bro
It is a drain for the front compartment.
Do u leave the PVC pipe in place or take it out?
1m3 =A & B ...... kg?
Зачем стрингеры подрезать ослабляя их? Лишний вес и нет прочности. Можно же стрингер склеить из двух тонких реек: они и гнутся хорошо и прочность будет огого.
Seems like a electric wire trimmer would be a heck of a lot more efficient
I thought closed cell foam wouldnt absorb water?
It is advertised as 98% or better. However, experience has proven that over time (years) if the foam remains submerged it will eventually absorb some water. By using individually sealed compartments filled with foam we ensure that not water can contact the foam. If the seal of one compartment is compromised it will not get into other sections.
Hi there, I work for UK TV Production company, Back2back. We would like to please use this on a new show called 'Engineering Repurposed' for Discovery+. Is this something you'd be interested in? Thanks - Izzi
Boat itself is already float, why do you need foam? I am new to this, just a curious question.
USCG requirement for foam flotation in boats under 20'. We also take advantage of the compressive strength of the foam and use it to assist in supporting the floor and hull bottom.
If you get a hole, the boat won’t float anymore unless you have foam
All due respect if a you say you don't have to worry about water absorption if you fully seal the compartment then you don't need the foam.
Well lets say you punch a hole into a compartment or two, then you will wish you had the foam.
Foam is for support not floatation I believe in this case
OMG🤦♀️
Yes, the last layer of foam should be capped with the floor right away to form a skin, regardless of what he says, oxidization will happen on the exposed bubbles and your product will start to break down faster.
I don't even know where to start with having ample places for wood degrading organisms to florish in a dark damp area that has no ventilation to eat apart your wood skiff from the inside out.
You should do a slight over pour, screw down your floor before expansion so you're properly skin sealed and then if you have any expansion through any cracks, scrap, sand and caulk or epoxy.
I can't even🤦♀️🤦♀️
The key is to use the taco bell mixing cups
Plus a number 4 for lunch.
Wouldn't have been easier to put plywood on and pour into holes rather than have to cut it
Pouring foam into an enclosed space requires more forethought and planning. The enclosed space limits the expansion so you need just the right amount of foam, too much and will push against the panels and warp the shape. Also, air can be trapped in corners creating voids which is not ideal. So while cutting is a bit time consuming we believe it is the best method for beginners.
@@saltboatworks1139 ...Tip: A 2" hole you drill to pour the foam in, will allow any overfill to ooz out, thus fill in all the air voids while eliminating any risk of warping the shape.
That looked rather half-assed at best.
Sealing foam adds unnecessary weight, decent video
Should have ensure back pressure and a skin. Ridiculous that this is the way its done.
My adventure with the tree began with projects from Stodoys plans.
I think that using that foam is a waste of space. This boat has nine sections. The chance that you dammage all these sections is almost impossible.
Dont use foam.been working on getting out foam from older boats my experiance is that the foam is so full of condenswater that it almost sink in water.it is also inpasseble getting it to dry out when wet
Older foam is a different thing. It’s polyethylene, not polyurethane. The older foam is an open celled foam and acts like a sponge. New polyurethane is a closed cell system and would have to be submerged for 30 years to have a barely noticeable 20% moisture. If you regularly take it out of the water, you don’t have to worry.
@@It-b-Blair Actually you are incorrect. Two part foams have not changed and all will absorb water. They need to be completely encapsulated from water.
Polyethylene (think pool noodles) will not sponge up water like two part foams. It is chemically resistant and is an excellent choice for flotation. It too is coast guard approved.
Do a search on two part foams on CZcams you will seee tons of failures. It does not have to be submerged, just contact over time. Go to Totalboats and read the data sheet on their two part foam, same with US composites. They both say it will absorb water. I just took 3 or 400 lbs of soaked foam out of my boat. I would NEVER put it back in.
@@bryanturner683 I'm with you based on real world experience using the same product as in this video. This pourable 2 part urethane foam is fairly water resistant, but it WILL ABSORB water over time. I poured some into an approx 5 sq in x 8' long subfloor channel last fall. Thinking it closed cell, I left the end at the bow unsealed, and the after end had a 1" diameter drain hole from manufacture.
Last week, I noticed water weeping from the drain hole. I figured some standing water had wicked up into the area around the foam, perhaps as much as a few cups, not even considering the bow end which I thought sealed by the foam itself.
When the weeping continued for 4 days with temps in the high 90's and the boat itself tilted up perhaps 25 degrees bow-high to facilitate draining, I began looking further, uncapping the places I had used as pour spots last fall. Turns out that there was water along the entire length of the subfloor channel, perhaps a gallon or more based on the weight of the foam which I have subsequently removed.
Doing this job for the second time now, because this foam was not completely encapsulated IMMEDIATELY after being poured. I think I am going to embed some sealed plastic soda/water bottles, saving both pour time and material$, and best - which will never leak.
This is straight from uscomposites website. As long as you aren’t submerging it for an extended period of time, the foam will not absorb water.
14. Is this foam water resistant?
Yes, but with the following caveat. The foams that we sell are considered closed-cell, which means that each cell that makes up the foam structure is completely closed off from surrounding cells which prevents it from acting like a sponge. It is completely safe for this foam to be in contact with water for hours/days/weeks and even months with no adverse effects. However, it should never be submerged in contact with water permanently. Over a period of years the water contact can begin to soften the foam and cause it to lose its closed-cell status. This foam is designed primarily to be used as an insurance policy in case of damage/holes that could cause a vessel to lose buoyancy. Pinhole sized openings would essentially have no effect on the foam since the amount of exposure is so minimal but you should always make repairs as soon as possible to keep the foam effectiveness as good as possible. This will be the case with all after market closed-cell polyurethane foams and even manufacturer installed foams.
Air is lighter that foam and its Free.
If hull is punctured or boat is swamped that air will definitely prevent the boat from sinking.
Fill it with sealed plastic soda/water bottles instead of this foam. Chop up pink foam into small bits for placement into the areas around the bottles.
Those two materials will never absorb any water at all.
Never use PU-foams in boats! They are NOT waterresistant!
Sorry but this is a ridiculous way to build a boat. Have fun digging that smelly wet foam out of there when it eventually gets wet and adds a couple of hundred pounds to the weight
Been there done that . In the 70's they used that stupid surfboard open cell sponge foam
PU dust its nasty for the lungs, dont foget to use masks.
I don’t agree with this. Pouring foam is rubbish, it does take up water over time and it also breaks down with vibration. If the temp is too cool it adds a lot of weight and can make
repairing and modification a pain in the arse. Water also wicks along the foam/timber join.
I hate the stuff.
Bladders are the way to go.
It's not like the old foam that turned to dust or got water logged, plus if it's done right you won't have water ingress. The density is there to get the weight below the deck, it's deliberate in an effort to reduce the centre of gravity.
The only thing missing in the video is the safety side and correct respiration gear, ventilation.
@@andrewiannello6548 Reduce the centre of gravity ?
That’s pure nonsense.
@@andrewiannello6548 What way of ventilation do you know? However, I would like to avoid the accumulated condensation when building a boat ... Thank you!
Fun fact: this foam WILL eventually get wet and it WILL absorb that water. Terrible idea to use expanding foam in a boat.
It is a USCG requirement to have flotation foam in boats under 20'. So until they change this federal regulation, we will continue to use foam in the most responsible ways possible, bu sealing each cavity 100% to make it water right.
@@saltboatworks1139 Pool noodles in the compartments. Light, buoyant, and won't absorb water. Foam in boats is the scourge of boats in Alaska.
@@saltboatworks1139 the old school guys don't realise the modern closed cell foam is waterproof. It's been tested to death. Don't blame them, the old stuff used to turn to chalk.
@@akdoug6437 excellent idea. Now you've got my imagination running wild on how to keep 55 gallon plastic barrels from taking on too much water and possibly sinking. Thanks.
Expensive, labour-intensive, very inconvenient and EXPENSIVE once again. Have you heard about styrofoam insulation? Exact the same effect, fraction of the time needed, fraction of the cost.
"Styrofoam is not fully waterproof. A Material is called waterproof if it’s wholly impervious or impenetrable to water. This means water cannot pass through that material and also not absorb any water in the process.
So, for example, styrofoam insulation can be water-resistant but not fully waterproof. This is because styrofoam does not absorb moisture from the air but can absorb water if it directly interacts with water. "