How to Use Two Part Expanding Flotation Foam and Say NO to Pool Noodles Forever!
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- čas přidán 23. 03. 2020
- This video describes how to use two-part expanding flotation foam to increase strength and (hopefully) float yer boat in the event not-so-good things happen on the water. My shop is a "No Pool Noodles Zone", and yours should be too!
And by the way... is it flotation or floatation? Hmm. I dunno. Just watch the video!
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amzn.to/3ZJogJP Total Boat Flotation Foam - Make sure you get the 2lb version (NOT 6lb) by clicking this link!
amzn.to/3XxuKK1 Starbond Flexible Medium CA is the only CA glue you will ever need and is available through my Amazon Affiliate link
amzn.to/3CW6DwJ 48 Inch Aluminum Straightedge - Gotta have it!
amzn.to/3iD3ZVK G/Flex Epoxy - This is the one you want for the majority of the assembly. Getcha some!
amzn.to/3XtMlSU Dremel wood cutting wheel as seen in my videos. You need this!
amzn.to/3QAtfIy Get this Dremel mandrel for mounting the cutting wheel.
amzn.to/3vXd7Yc Digital angle gauge. We'll be using this a LOT during the build. Get it now so you'll be ready.
amzn.to/3kbMdcq THE BEST epoxy application brushes - no stray hairs! Luv em!
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The best, scientific no BS factual video! Thank you for taking time to film, explain(with visual aids) video and for posting it.
You're welcome, and thanks for watchin'!
Thanks for some great videos!Detailed and informative building👍❤️
OK, nice video but additional info so people can decide. The two part foam will absorb water over time. Read the company spec sheet. If water is allowed to stay in contact it will eventually separate from the surface so there goes your strength. . Worse thing is that it will absorb water and not dry out and it will corrode your aluminum boat. I just took out soaked foam from my 20 foot sled. Probably 500 pounds of soaked foam. This is very common. Its a very poor choice for this purpose. I thought I was going to struggle to get the foam out, but it was mostly separated. The insulation board is not resistant to chemicals so it can have issues also. The pool noodle is actually the better choice of the 3. Its made of polyethylene and will not absorb water. The biggest issue with the pool noodle is you cant get as much foam into a given void Because of the shape. especially hollow ones. Polyethylene foam boards are available. Its not cheap. Flotation is based on the amount of water displaced. one cubic foot of anything displaces a little of 60 lbs of water. Cubic foot of pool noodle equals cubic foot of foam. 2 oz of foam will not do much at all. Closedcell foam will not protect wood over time.
The key is "over time". Our model boats spend nowhere near the same amount of time in the water as a typical full-size boat. Full-size boats by and large have no issues with pour foam either, unless the hull leaks and water is allowed to stand inside for months or years. There is simply never a situation where closed cell pour foam would take in any water in a model boat, unless perhaps the boat sunk and was left on a lake bottom for several months. The same reasons pour foam is used in full-size boats are the reasons it should be used in models; excellent flotation, and excellent adhesion adding strength and "bump-ability".
Awesome video!!! Learned something today!!! Love your tech videos!! Keep them coming.
I'm on it!
Thank you for you time, i just used this foam in my proboat miss geico to avoid another hull split.
Perfect use!
Awesome video. Very informative.
Thank You.
You don’t bake ? I wake and bake. Love your video on nitrous. I’m not sure who is higher but you’ve got all the facts and I appreciate your tutorial.
If you use this on a glass or plastic type hull submerge the nose of the boat in water, the foam gives off a fair amount of heat and can distort the hull, had it happen on a aeromarine titan 40.
Thank you I’m so glad I watched this video, I finally got my 52” long 16” wide sponson built, I built it outta heavy thick cardboard, a China packing crate box to be exact. They are heavier and thicker so China glassware don’t break as easily when moving. It took me over a month of researching abs drawing and cutting tons of poster boards, paper glued together, cardboard, to get the angles cut on everything.
You my friend are a damn true artist, after building a large sponson, which I thought oh hell 3-4 angled to point cardboard cut out tape together bam I got my sponson
BS took a week of precise cutting measuring to get the angles I needed and still not the exact shape I wanted but figured this is good enough. The thing I wanted was to get bit to look identical. Like your boats do, I am really close and now everything taped together with gorilla tape 4 rolls. I hv a 1 1/2” hole cut on the bottom of sponson 1 hole for each compartment, ended up doing inside and bottom Of sponson and dividing it into 4 compartments. I am going to pour flotation foam into each compartment then once dry going to fiberglass with 3 layers and 2- layers of gel coat to finish it off with. I feel I need to make a secondary hole for pressure if I end up pouring too much so it will hv a place to go. Going to mix up 1 cup of it to start off with and next maybe 2 cups but if not completely full I’ll mix up a little at a time till full. Cut off what’s coming outta the pour hole & relief hole sand down, cover good with cardboard sand smooth, and lay 1st layer, I may go ahead abs pair each cardboard sponson with just plain 2- part resin to make the cardboard stuff, I don’t want the foam to reshape my sponson, I may even lay one coat of fiberglass on it. I thought about going ahead and just glassing the 3 layers, making my relief hole for excess if I have any abs going back and glassing over holes sanding down smooth and pour foam in after I finished glassing, tho k I just made my mind up
Any comments on glsssing first or foam first think glass so sponson dosent change shape by puffing out
Thanks a ton man your a damn true artist wished I could get you to build me two sponsons like on that yellow, blue white stripped boat a few vids ago. I love the look on those sponsons, building myself a shallow water fishing scooter type boat catamaran style, with a 86 lb thrust trolling motor, flat decked with 3’ sides no front or back may put a 3-5hp motor may be electric but trolling motor for now. The kayak I wanted de led out would Costco er 5,500.00. My 21’5” center console yellow fin was stolen Ali g with just about all my fishing gear and electronics. Trying to save up for a nice down payment on another one. Needed something to get me to my fishing spots on Texas coast. So far with 15 yards of woven 10% eglass resin everything I hv spent has been 141.47 keeping receipts to see how much figuring won’t cost me more h the an 500.00 of course not including my new fish finder lol hv trolling motor was given to me by a total stranger trying to help me out there are good people still out there god bless everyone you do amazing work abs thanks for posting the pic of that boat I liked drawing or plans that helped me out so much I don’t hv fancy high dollar camera and boom mic to make a video of building this thing. I really wished II knew how to post video on u tube I am taking pics that about all I can do thanks again sorry for long post
There are two critical tendencies of pour foam that I should have included in the video. First, it gets very warm as it's curing and can cause temperature sensitive materials to deform. Second and amplifying the first, it shrinks slightly as it hardens and WILL distort any surface that is not fairly rigid. With this in mind, I would expect it to radically deform a cardboard structure!
Love your videos. I only build FE boats but your videos are very good. Keep up the killer work!!
Thanks James. Stick around, I have a FE video series in the works!
What’s FE?
"Fast Electrics" ... I have no idea why they're called that. Sounded better than Slow Electrics I guess
Lmao that pool noodle tho!!! I found a new boating channel to help me through my boat build!!!
No mo noodle!
Amazing videos, I would love to see a video on all, the tools needed to complete a build. Sort of a what is needed for dummies lol. If you where to do a patreon page I would definitely support you. Thank you once again for all these videos once again.
Go to the hardware store, buy everything in the tools section, and you're all set! Just kidding.... Thanks for the idea and thanks for watching
Is there an injection Gun to use for this. I have some hard to reach spots for pouring the foam from a cup.
Thought about adding flotation foam to inside chambers of my Achilles 12’ raft replacing air.
Sure, but important to remember that flotation foam is heavy and will add considerable weight to the craft
Howzit M5. Have you done a video on a step by step guide from design to paint on a build? If not could you do one please. Not sure what to do first and what to do last. This would help tremendously. I just watched your video on jigs and realized that I am completely out of my league but would really love to learn. I would have just gone ahead and slapped one together and it would have been as squint as Colombo. Thanks
You can do it!
czcams.com/play/PLN1BConcF3a2Ipiq0VOKo4lX-YX3W3b1i.html
Might you know the maximum temp this mixture becomes and for approximately h ow long - when it sets? I have an app where I can see using this to fill voids (to help preventing rattling) in an interior car plastic panel. My concern is that this heat could distort the original shape of the interior panel. Do you know of any such similar products that have a lower cure temp.
It gets quite warm for five minutes or so, though I don't know that actual temperature. Probably unwise in a plastic panel because the heat plus it's rapid expansion will almost surely warp the plastic. Have you considered the common spray foam insulation available at hardware stores? Not sure but I think there's almost no heat with that stuff
@@M5PerfHydros Yes, I am aware of that product. I feel it is not heavy enough - part of my goal is to stiffen, the other part is to add density to change its resonant frequency to be much lower that it now is. Im considering adding sand or lead beads or something extremely find to liquid resin (which does also get warm but you can control that to an extend by not using too much catalyst). thanks.
Does it adhere to oil ? I’m wanting to fill a beach ball for a round shape so I can carve it. I was thinking I could coat the inside of a beach ball with oil then fill it and then peel it off. ????
Fascinating! I have no idea if that will work, but I'm oddly overwhelmed with the desire to try it now
I wonder if it would work inside 3/4 pvc pipe on a recovery boat.
Sure, why not? Just don't seal the end or you'll have a bomb!
You can have best of both world, use original Gorilla Glue aprox 90-10 with water. It will expand like flotation foam, is completely water tight and of course bond to just about anything and is cheaper than floatation foam.
Interesting!!
What would be nice is to show the builders how you do your glue joints. How to get them so nice looking.
Thanks for the idea Art! I've been thinking about doing a general Epoxy 101 video, so maybe I'll also touch on application techniques
I have to replace the foam in my bass boat because it got wet and it obsorbed water and rotted the floor. How is this stuff around water, does it obsorb or shed water?
That's what this foam is intended for! Total Boat is the best I've found
I looked at West Marine for some foam and I noticed they have some in a spray can as well. They call it sealant foam. Would this work as well? I don't do enough boat projects yet to warrant buying $150 in 2 part foam.
Hmm, I dunno. If they claim it has good chemical and heat resistance you should be ok, but I think I'd only use it in an electric boat to be safe. I'd be very interested to hear what you think of it if you decide to go that route.
Btw The quart size pour foam is $52 on Amazon if that interests you
@@M5PerfHydros its for an electric
Hello sir. I'm about to seal the inside of my tiny JAE 12 electric rigger. When doing 2 coats of thinned epoxy, do you let the first coat dry completely or do you do the second coat once tacky or something else. Now hurry up, I'm trying to build here dontcha know!! :)
Once is all you need! Two coats is a waste of time and epoxy and adds weight.
But if you were to do two coats, and I would not, you'd want to do the second one while the first was still tacky. If you wait until it has cured you have to sand it to remove the skim and roughen it to get decent adhesion. But just don't do it. Now get back to work!
@@M5PerfHydros Thank you!
what is the proper way of using/handling expanding foam? any bad fumes
Interesting question, and one that's never crossed my mind. I've not observed any sort of warning on the containers or any of the literature I've read. Never noticed any detectable odor either, so I'm gonna say it's probably not at all dangerous. But .... I'm only guessing!
You know I ALMOST turn the video off when you said they were NOT condom cups! That's what I use them for! But it was worth it just to hear you call out David!!! And I don't even know who he is!!!
Ha!
Thanks for watchin'!
Hey Scott, there's a compartment in the boat I'm building that is sealed off from the rest of the boat. I'm concerned that if it gets water in it, I won't be able to get it out. At the moment, I can access it from the top until I put the deck skin on. I've considered filling it with pour foam, but I've been told that once it's completely sealed, it could expand/contract with the temperature and pop the skins. Any thoughts? Thanks!
Where is this secret compartment located? It's never a good idea to have an area fully sealed. The pressure differential going from dead of winter to summer will likely split a seam
@@M5PerfHydros It's just behind (aft) of the sponson transom. The sponson transom separates the two compartments. I could add a drain hole and drain into the sponson. Since I haven't added non-trips, ride surfaces or decking yet I can still get to it with my Dremel. Is there a better option? Thanks!
Yes I would connect it through the hull or into the sponson, either way. Just make the holes large enough that it'll get enough air to dry out
Hmm.... wonder if lowering the front of my trailer all the way to the ground would give me enough angle to pour some floaty stuff into the bow of my 16'er...
Ha! Why not?!
Hi Scott. Man sorry to pick your brain again but I've found a guy that can laser the framework for me. He claims however that plywood's edges burn because of small air pockets and would prefer to do it in imported yellow MDF. I see that you don't use MDF other than on the jig. Is there a reason for this?
MDF for framing the boat?!? Heck no don't do it! MDF is very weak and brittle, not to mention it absorbs moisture like a sponge.
I hate to pick on your guy, but plywood cuts extremely well with a laser when done properly. Take a look at this website to see really excellent laser cut plywood kits; mlboatworksrc.com
@@M5PerfHydros that's what I thought. You're a star, thanks Scott
Where does one go to find the boats specs and rules for building rc hydro?
Everything you'll ever want to know is here; www.rcunlimiteds.com/
@@M5PerfHydros Thanks
What is the foam density when dried? What do you recommend?
From Total Boat the options are 6lb and 2lb. As you might imagine, the 6lb is denser and heavier so I use the 2lb.
I wander if you could use it in a spray or a injection system
The reaction begins so quickly that I don't think those things would work. Additionally you'd never get finished in time to get your equipment cleaned out so you'd ruin your hardware at every use!
@@M5PerfHydros yeah I was thinking that I just see a bunch of two part A and B spray and injection foam systems but thank you for the response
Foam doesn't add buoyancy unless/until is displaces water.
What you're doing is mitigating the reduction in buoyancy that would result from a leak, and adding strength.
Found this because I wanted to see this product in action. I’m not interested in structural uses, though interesting. I’m primarily interested in floatation: how much volume do I get for $xx? Helpful! Thanks.
A lot! 😁
I've never poured it all together to find out, but holy cow it would be a bunch. I use very small quantities for my purposes and the expansion rate is shocking
Lol condom cups. Great vid n killer boat build.
Thanks!
How do we know that the "Floaty Stuff" Even floats from your Video, Sir.. There is no Water shown in it .. We do know that the Noodle floats from pool experience.. Thanks
Point taken! But this was a "how to use" video, not "which floats better". I did do a comparison test where I compared fuel resistance and flotation capability of pour foam, pool noodles, and insulation foam (the big pink or blue sheets from a hardware store), and I wish now that I had videoed it. Briefly... insulation foam adds zero strength, and floats best, but turns to mush instantly in nitro. Pool noodles also add zero strength but are second in flotation and resist fuel for quite a while. Pour foam is third in flotation and resists fuel on par with noodles. For me, I like the added impact strength of pour foam. For you ... You decide!
@@M5PerfHydros, My boat is Similar to a Carolina Skiff in appearance.. The inside Hull is shaped similar to the Outside Hull.. A few places have "end grain balsa wood" that is Mush.. I was told not to use the A/B Foam to fill these Voids.. Is there a Structural Foam product that you know of that can be Drilled and filled pls.. I Liked your Video btw.. Thanks, Richard
Ouch! Balsa is a no-no.... the tiniest nick anywhere and it'll soak up water like a sponge. I don't have a good solution for you aside from cutting out all the wet wood and rebuilding. You can do it!
Is there a reason you don't use canned spray foam?
Yes, it doesn't have the same structural qualities and chemical resistance as the two-part polyurethane foam. Also, with the two-part foam I can use small amounts at any time and keep the remainder for years. With the spray cans you've got to use it all in one sitting because it hardens in the nozzle and pickup tube after the first time you use it!
Canned spray foam is not closed cell foam...it's just a sponge over time
Your razor blade privilege should be revoked. You cut that noodle like a mad man, whet did your thumbs ever do to you?😂 Good video!
You don't scare me... I've been practicing razor blading for years without a license anyway!
The problem with 2 part flotation foam is that it's just too expensive if you have to add any significant volume. That is why people use pool noodles, or as I'm doing - just sealing portions of the boat to make airtight tanks.
Think so? Quart size pour foam is about $60 and you'll use maybe 2oz per boat... Enough to last many years of boat building!
@@M5PerfHydros hmmmm 2oz per boat?
Try me! 2oz expands huge
@@M5PerfHydros amazon, 2 part foam, 76 bucks for 5 cubic feet. 5 cubic feet will provide about 300 lbs of flotation. 2oz will provide about 3.7 pounds of flotation. So, not likely to float anything but a toy boat.
So your point is that the point I was trying to make missed the point? My exaggeration for sake of emphasis was too painful? Use a few more ounces for gosh sake, or don't, I really don't care. But for those who find the structural and impact benefits useful, pour foam is the only way to go. And besides, we ARE building toy boats, which are supposed to be fun, not items from which to fabricate contention. Build one and go play with it. You'll feel better, I promise.
5:48 Poor cupcake! It hasn't done anything to yoo!
Witch one weigh more ,floaty does .
True! But for me, the added strength is worth the extra ounce. Be sure to get the right floaty stuff too. The two pound rated and six pound cans look exactly the same... Gotta read the fine print!
YOWZA! Thought I was listening to David Letterman for a second.
But without the big crazy beard!
@@M5PerfHydros
He definitely does look like Santa Clause now
I glued plastic bottles and covered with foam.
How did you secure them? I’m thinking of hard plastic pot buoys covered with foam.
@@alicetwombly3812 liquid nails glued to the bottom. It worked great.
Don't overthink it fellas!
Anyone else realize, 7 minutes into the video, that he was applying this to a scaled toy boat?
I suppose the logic still holds true for real boats 🤔
Yes but remember that pour foam is heavy.... If you need additional strength in the hull it is your best choice, but if you simply want to add flotation and don't need additional strength in the structure you'll want to use a lighter material
@@M5PerfHydros Thanks Scott, I appreciate it!
Jc get to the point..
So sorry. Here's a condensed version that I'm sure you'll enjoy; czcams.com/video/tPEE9ZwTmy0/video.html