How Foam works in your Boat:
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- čas přidán 5. 10. 2019
- Link to Pour Foam: www.amazon.com/shop/michaello...
This video shows not only why foam keeps your boat from sinking, but why it's necessary to have a good drainage system for the life and longevity of the foam put in. With this system, we are able to get rid of the damage that pockets of water can do to foam over time
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Disclaimer: I am not a professional fabricator or builder.
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Modify your boat at your own risk. - Jak na to + styl
what i really love about your videos is that you show trial and error! you dont get in front of the camera and start showing all the perfect pours and easy cuts to make this seem simple! you show us the hard wokr and effort and money that really goes into something special like this!
If your not making mistakes your not learning 💯
Thanks so much for posting this. Just started my 20foot aluminum project. Ordered the foam yesterday. Perfect timing for this video!
You are the TB guru ... man I’m gonna use so many of your skills and ideas on my TB rebuild . I need more storage and want more deck space. But the more I watch your videos the more i can see mines as a finished product and the way I want it .. keep the great content coming👊👊👊
The things you turn a tiny boats into convinced me not to go in debt over a bass boat just build my own. I love mine it’s a work in progress that’s fishable and I like the detail you give because I would have never thought about it the way you see things. Keep up the awesome work and keep on putting bigger boats to shame man.
Same here. Yes, I could have just gone out and bought a boat, but where is the fun in that?
Mike I am sure you know but they sell home spray foam kits. Since you are doing this full time might be a good investment for spraying your boats. Nice work keep it up.
Mike, you've inspired me! I'm going to attempt to turn my 12' V-hull into a tiny bass boat. In Canada I'm able to get most of what you're using, but was wondering where I can get Gator Skins?
I'm rebuilding my 58 crestliner commodore and want to put more foam in it. After watching your awesome videos I had an idea. If I was to pour the foam into a garbage bag inside my hull I wouldn't have to worry about water or gas getting to the foam. Is this good thinking or am I missing something ?
I'm late to this party, but love these videos. I'm starting a 14' v hull restore and my question on the tubing is where dows the water go in the cross tubing when it drains in there? Thanks, and again love the infor your give on these. Roger
We just overfill the poor foam and cut/sand it down to level. It's closed cell, so your only exposing the outer layer. Which isn't an issue in a glass boat underfloor. I don't imagine it would be a problem for the ally boat with, it's fuel resistance, so water isn't going to do anything to it. You have to use marine grade PU foam. The builder's foam from hardware store, is not fuel resistant, stay clear of that.
I bought a 20hp mercury efi just like your yours
Love it I just hit 10 hours and am going to the break in maintenance this week
Thanks for the recommendation again
But today I got my rookie card handed back to me I forgot to lock upper cowl down
And it blew off sight unseen totally lost forever...... any help ????
What if you use emty water bottle and 2 liter bottle to fill most of the voids and use to he foam yo fill the rest?
Did you put anything between the foam and the ally like plastic or anything?
I got to repair a 3ftx8ft section in the front of my 21ft bay boat. The rest of thr boat has closed cell do i need to use open or close? And its suppoed to draing down the middle to the back
It looks like the drain tubes are going to be filled with foam at the bottom, are they run to the back of the boat and the idea is to have any water pooling up on top of the foam drain out? If so, what about any water seeping down other cracks around the foam, wouldn't the water pool on the bottom of the boat under the foam? I just removed a bunch of saturated old foam from my Jon boat so just trying to understand.
I just ordered some pour foam.
Then you made me think about it getting water logged.
If it absorbed water like a sponge it's not going to drain no matter what?
Wouldn't it be better to just make the compartment water proof?
Hi TBN. I am adding some floors to my Crestliner 1236 Jon. And hoping to get some advice.
I want to fill the spaces between the bracing with polystyrene. Based on what I've seen on CZcams.
I was thinking of using Kingspan Insulation R-10 (Common: 2-in x 4-ft x 8-ft; Actual: 2-in x 4-ft x 8-ft) 1 Unfaced Polystyrene Foam Board Insulation. From Lowe's. 2 questions.
1 is this a good foam?
2 what is the best adhesive to secure the foam to the floor of the boat? Or should I not put adhesive directly on the boats finish?
TIA!
Stay tiny.
Where do all the tubes in the foam go?
So I know how much foam I will need can you tell me how many pounds one cubic foot of foam will support? I don't have enough area I could use pour foam to bother with so I'm thinking of using Styrofoam for my situation.
Try over pouring foam. Taking a sawblade and cutting it off at the top much better finish. Seal the top of it with two-part Apoxsee. Forces all the water down into the belly of the boat into the drain section good luck
FYI, the spray foam works best upside down
why not build a little box for each one so the foam can expand past the top. then remove the box once its set up a bit and cut flush with a wire knife/cable knife so it fills the entire space?
That might be the problem with converting a deep v boat into a swallow water fisher. If water gets into the boat where does it go? If you're going to build up a deck i would seal it off. It's a good thing that you're running hoses down into a bilge area. But you dont want water that gets in the boat to drain down there. You want the water to drain out of the boat. And I think a good way to do that is to raise your floor high enough so it drains out of the back of the boat. So everything is sealed off and water proofed. If you find water down in your bilge area that means there's a leak. And if you have a bilge you should have a bilge plug so you can drain the boat because the bilge pump won't pump all the water out. If you ever get a chance take a look at a Boston Whaler and see how they do it. We had one for about 10 years. But they're heavier boats made out of fiberglass that are made for waters with stronger currents. Anyway your boat should be completely sealed and water proofed around the deck and the floor, and the hatch doors for your cargo and stuff should have seals, and water should drain out before it ever gets down into the bilge. That way it all drains out and you can wash your boat too and rinse it down.
Glad to see you put to rest your I don't like foam fetish. Couple of ideas. First. Pool noodles. Cut them up stuff them everywhere and they will naturaly drain. Buy them at Dollar general or online for about $1.00 a noodle. Second. Pour your foam before you carpet your floor boards. Line the bottom of the floorboard with painters plastic and install floor to frame. The plastic is important because it will allow you to pull the floor to carpet later. Or recarpet in the future. Drill a 3" hole in the center of the compartment to be filled. This hole will be used to pour through. Keep the plug. Once done pouring, epoxy and fiberglass the plug back into the hole then remove the floor and install carpet. This should allow you to completely fill small areas. If you are foaming a large area you will need to drill several pour holes. If the foam comes out of your pour holes just glue sand paper to the plug and spin with a drill to cut the foam to depth.
One more tip. When you buy two part foam use it right away. The longer it sits in the can the less volatile its chemical reaction becomes. Which in turn means it expands significantly less. Do ask me why but experience taught me the hard way.
As far as degradation. Yeah noidles will degrade if they are exposed to UV light or chlorine. Neither of which will occure in the confines of below deck in a boat. The polystyrene board is also not UV stable and will degrade under UV intensive conditions just about as fast as polyethylene (noodles).
I actually tested the air void concern before I used both noodles and pour in foam in my boat. I poured 1cu/ft of foam and made a bundle of noodles that was 1cu/ft. It took 1.5 lbs more weight to sink the pour foam below the surface of the water. So even with the "air gaps" their boyuancy was very close. It is really a matter of personal preference.
Clifty Clacker yes. Actually pour foam if not done properly is rather dense and will not float much weight. A 1 ltr soda bottle is 100% air and better than any foam and those bottles are tough as nails. Plus easyto drain watertrapped in bottom of boat unlike foam..
If you really want some water run off on top of the foam, I would suggest to raise quite a bit your boat so that when you pour the foam, it will mushroom up into a shape that will TRY to stay level. For example, if you want your run off to go towards the back, lift the back something like 6 inches or a feet or whatever, depending on its length, then pour the foam. Because you are lifting the back, that means the front is lower thus needs to fill first, thus meaning less foam SHOULD go towards the back, thus creating your slope. I know foam doesn't react 100% like water, but it is still "kinda" like water...
Bro I’m making fishing kayak out of foam, coated with fiberglass, what foam density I should use, this question is killing my whole kayak project noting that I’m on tight budget
I would use 2 or 6lb density
Wouldn't it be better to use a closed-cell foam that would not, and could not absorb water. Isn't there such a thing? And if you could use closed-cell polyethylene, it would be impervious to gasoline and solvents also. Have you looked into using closed-cell products? That is what I'd really be interested in. I've never had a boat with open-cell foam that didn't waterlog.
@@TinyBoatNation I beg your pardon. I just figured that the spray cans were like what you get at Home Depot to seal windows and doors, and of course, they are water absorbing foam. Thanks very much for the link on the Total Boat product. That might just be what I need. Glad I ran into you, and thanks for the videos.
I find it really hard to agree with you on this one... You taking on water through a rivet? Bilge pump, you got rained on? Bilge pump....
I am currently rebuilding a 15 ft flat bottom alumacraft that the previous owner built a front deck and filled with Foam... Big mistake, after i took out the foam there is pitting everywhere! As well as about 10 holes... Mind that theres no other corrosion in the entire boat, just where there was foam. The foam eventually will hold water and turn the boat into a strainer... I can provide pictures if anybody is interested...
If you dont want to ruin your boat or sink just use 2 bilge pumps....
@@TinyBoatNation its a double ede sword unfortunately. To each their own i guess.
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Why don’t you just over pour and let it mushroom over the top then cut it flush
Michael Lopez maybe worth looking into. I think it would save you a lot of frustration in the long run
@@TinyBoatNation This is what I ultimately decided to do. I found that my boat did not have very good drainage, even when it was completely stripped. The holes to allow water to drain just were not very big. I decided to just deck it and pack the under-deck with foam to force the water to run off the epoxied deck, to the back. Calculating the volume took a little thought but I used 2 kits of 2# pour foam on a 16.5ft vhull. It's still light but man, did that ever stiffen things up.
What an expensive mess, and, despite all efforts, a drainage nightmare. Not to mention the virtual impossibility of EVER totally removing it (sand blasting???). Better is cut blocks of foam. Self-draining, and easy eventual removal. Done carefully, you lose very little buoyancy.
A far better thing to do is use emptied plastic soda bottles. The big and small ones. Squeeze a little air out of them and then seal the caps with silicon. They will deform into the nooks and crannies and if you want you can put chicken wire over them as well to hold them in the space.
Foam is a mess and should never be used.
yougeo “ A far better thing to do” dude! Really? Why not use foam? Wouldn’t chicken wire rust and add weight? I reckon if you think this one out, foam will float maybe 12000% better than chicken wire? Just a thought mate lol 🤔🤣 Ranger boats don’t use chicken wire nor do USCG.... just sayin...
Michael Lopez I have plastic bottles only hand tightened shut that remained watertight for 10 years. The plastic is incredibly tough and will NOT explode. Designed to with the internal pressure of carbonated soda dropped on a hard surface. Foam is much less tough. Furthermore unless foam is tied down on topped with a strong lid it will rip out of areas it fills if the boat has a hole.
Kel seriously? Empty soda bottles are far lighter than foam. Chicken simply holds them on the space if you want. Even foam will rip out if something isn't holding it in the space...some type of metal cover.
@@yougeo why not empty soda bottles and spray foam?