Caution: If the pink board is polystyrene it will likely not be very chemically resistant. Fuel or other chemicals can eat it. It probably would not pass coast guard testing. Polyethylene is a better choice. Second. You are correct about "displacement" but something I never considered until I read the coast guard regulations is that the aluminum will also "displace" water. everything displaces water , aluminum wood fiberglass , steel etc. The coast guard has factors to help you calculate how much "flotation" you need for each material and types of gear on the boat. If the aluminum boat weighs 1000 pounds you dont need 1000 lbs of flotation. I believe the factor is .63 for aluminum. So .63 times 1000 is 630. You only need 630 lbs of flotation to keep the hull from sinking. The coast guard does not require flotation to keep the boat above water, just at the surface. They also dont require full flotation for passenger weight. say you have 4 person rating, you only need 25% of that weight because they figure the passengers will be in the water. For those interest heres a video. Watch at 15: and 21:36 Polyethylene is a closed cell foam. It looks kind of like styrofoam as it has a bead appearance. It will not absorb water like the spray in foam. There are different types, pool noodles for one. But there is a type that really cant be compressed much at all and will actually spring back if you do try to compress it. Pink foam is polystyrene. Im not sure its a good choice because it is not very chemically stable (gasoline). Heres a link to a video. go to 15:15 and 21:36. czcams.com/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/video.html I just ripped the foam out of my boat and replaced it with the stuff used in the video. Should really watch all the videos. These guys do awesome work.
I acquired a free 1988 16'V Bass Tracker that needs a complete gut job. My wife had zero faith in my rebuilding skills and to be honest, I didn't have much in my own either. I've watched all of your videos and now have the confidence to replace the transom, foam and rivets. If you lived in MN I would drive to your house and kiss you right on the mouth! Excellent videos and please keep em coming!
Jeff your videos are awesome!! I just picked up a 95 V17 and you will be a huge help.. You seem like a great guy too! would love to spend a day at the lake with you. :) Thanks for all the hard work.
Hello Jeff, I’m loving your videos. You think about servicing and quick and easy repairs for when pumps and the like fail. You’ve given me amazing ways to do things the right way as I set up my older pontoon boat to be my ultimate fishing/hunting vessel. Thank you. I’ve talked to several people about boat flotation and not one of them came close to explaining it the way you just did. The light bulb finally turned on for me. So based on what you just explained as to the displacement of water under the floor, it seems like flotation in a pontoon would not be useful, but almost everyone I have spoken with says that I need to replace it if I take it out. It’s completely water logged on the right side. My thought is to get it out of there and baffle the pontoon so it has 3 or 4 different compartments. I would greatly appreciate your opinion. Thanks again.
Awesome I appreciate you watching and taking time to post a comment. I enjoy reading them. I try to always replace if I remove floatation. A lot of older pontoons have bulkheads in them. You may get lucky. They usually are sealed from the top leaving just a gap at bottom to allow water to drain to rear. Good luck and again thank you for watching.
Awesome video. Question: Why do people put foam under the deck verses along the sides of the hull? Does is matter in any of the two areas as it relates to flotation and walking on the sides of the deck? I know walking on the sides of the deck the boat will tip a bit, but I think with foam in the sides of the hull will keep the boat just as stable. Your thoughts. I'm asking for a Lowe UV 1467 aluminum boat. I'm planning to have a 36" wide deck with 12" sides for some storage and foaming. Thanks!
Foam only displaces water. As long as there’s no water inside the boat it does nothing. The reason I put foam in the hull under floor is to buy time. With no foam you could easily put 200 gallons of water under floor before you knew there was a issue. By then it’s almost to late if you throttle up and all the water goes to the rear. With foam there’s no room under the floor do the water will appear way earlier. Thank you for watching I appreciate it
Hey Jeff, question is as I’m looking this stuff up at lowes is this the insulation that has an r value or is there other that is cheaper that doesn’t? If so it has gone way up since this video. If so do you know of somewhere else to get it that would be cheaper than big box stores? If it is the same thing I saw it’s now 42.99 a sheet. About to replace the floor board of my boat and I’m going to go ahead and do this wile I’ve got it open. Thanks
I got mine at Home Depot when I done mine and yes it has gone up a lot recently. You just need to make sure what ever you get is closed cell. Right now there is no place cheap. Thanks for watching I appreciate it
So the only place the foam isn't touching the inside of the hull is about 7" of the very bottom, which is where the water can drain. Other wise the foam is laying on the inside of the hull. Is this correct?
I put them in them put pieces in to squeeze them tight side to side I left air travel under them to allow water to move front to back. My other boat they are totally loose. I can’t tell it.
I don’t expect to get a reply to this comment, but I will ask anyways. When you cut the foam and then lay down the aluminum overtop of it, or if someone uses wood like original, won’t water lay on top of your foam just like it could lay on top of a pour in foam? Once that water lays there and freezes it can do the same damage as what happened to the pour in foam correct? I know sometimes pour in foam is for structural support, so in that case if you remove it and go with the foam board then you need to have it in there tightly packed to support the stringers, so would I need to put a cut in the top of the foam or something to act as a “drain” so water won’t sit and freeze just like the pour in foam? I’m in the Charlotte NC area and attempting to redo the flooring in my semi-V sea nymph that was my grandfathers and I’ve watched your videos for help, but that one question just keeps coming to mind. Thank you if you ever see this
Thanks for the comment. It’s really not a problem with this type of foam. The cells are way tighter than pour in style foams. The little water you get on top or around it won’t saturate before it just dries up. I had a piece of this foam in a bucket of water with a brick holding it down. After a week when removed it was still bone dry. As for strength foam provides very little strength in most boat applications. It helps with sound more than anything. I always put extra braces and stringers when I do a boat floor
Ya that’s expensive but necessary when your boat sinks it’s too late my alternative is to use styrofoam peanuts and contact cement spray if the water doesn’t drain your boat will rot out
Caution: If the pink board is polystyrene it will likely not be very chemically resistant. Fuel or other chemicals can eat it. It probably would not pass coast guard testing. Polyethylene is a better choice. Second. You are correct about "displacement" but something I never considered until I read the coast guard regulations is that the aluminum will also "displace" water. everything displaces water , aluminum wood fiberglass , steel etc. The coast guard has factors to help you calculate how much "flotation" you need for each material and types of gear on the boat. If the aluminum boat weighs 1000 pounds you dont need 1000 lbs of flotation. I believe the factor is .63 for aluminum. So .63 times 1000 is 630. You only need 630 lbs of flotation to keep the hull from sinking. The coast guard does not require flotation to keep the boat above water, just at the surface. They also dont require full flotation for passenger weight. say you have 4 person rating, you only need 25% of that weight because they figure the passengers will be in the water.
For those interest heres a video. Watch at 15: and 21:36 Polyethylene is a closed cell foam. It looks kind of like styrofoam as it has a bead appearance. It will not absorb water like the spray in foam. There are different types, pool noodles for one. But there is a type that really cant be compressed much at all and will actually spring back if you do try to compress it. Pink foam is polystyrene. Im not sure its a good choice because it is not very chemically stable (gasoline). Heres a link to a video. go to 15:15 and 21:36. czcams.com/video/rSf7U7aOCK4/video.html I just ripped the foam out of my boat and replaced it with the stuff used in the video. Should really watch all the videos. These guys do awesome work.
You have no idea how much your videos have helped me with my boat remodel. thank you so much.
Thank you for saying that. You made my day. I appreciate you watching and taking the time to comment
I acquired a free 1988 16'V Bass Tracker that needs a complete gut job. My wife had zero faith in my rebuilding skills and to be honest, I didn't have much in my own either. I've watched all of your videos and now have the confidence to replace the transom, foam and rivets. If you lived in MN I would drive to your house and kiss you right on the mouth! Excellent videos and please keep em coming!
Lol. I appreciate that. It’s comments like yours that make it worth doing. Thank you.
Jeff your videos are awesome!! I just picked up a 95 V17 and you will be a huge help.. You seem like a great guy too! would love to spend a day at the lake with you. :) Thanks for all the hard work.
Dang I appreciate that. You made my day. Good luck with the new boat.
Hello Jeff,
I’m loving your videos. You think about servicing and quick and easy repairs for when pumps and the like fail. You’ve given me amazing ways to do things the right way as I set up my older pontoon boat to be my ultimate fishing/hunting vessel. Thank you. I’ve talked to several people about boat flotation and not one of them came close to explaining it the way you just did. The light bulb finally turned on for me. So based on what you just explained as to the displacement of water under the floor, it seems like flotation in a pontoon would not be useful, but almost everyone I have spoken with says that I need to replace it if I take it out. It’s completely water logged on the right side. My thought is to get it out of there and baffle the pontoon so it has 3 or 4 different compartments. I would greatly appreciate your opinion. Thanks again.
Awesome I appreciate you watching and taking time to post a comment. I enjoy reading them. I try to always replace if I remove floatation. A lot of older pontoons have bulkheads in them. You may get lucky. They usually are sealed from the top leaving just a gap at bottom to allow water to drain to rear. Good luck and again thank you for watching.
Great information.
Thank you,ive learned something today from you tutorial.
Awesome, that’s what it’s all about. I appreciate you watching and commenting thank you
Awesome video. Question: Why do people put foam under the deck verses along the sides of the hull? Does is matter in any of the two areas as it relates to flotation and walking on the sides of the deck? I know walking on the sides of the deck the boat will tip a bit, but I think with foam in the sides of the hull will keep the boat just as stable. Your thoughts. I'm asking for a Lowe UV 1467 aluminum boat. I'm planning to have a 36" wide deck with 12" sides for some storage and foaming. Thanks!
Foam only displaces water. As long as there’s no water inside the boat it does nothing. The reason I put foam in the hull under floor is to buy time. With no foam you could easily put 200 gallons of water under floor before you knew there was a issue. By then it’s almost to late if you throttle up and all the water goes to the rear. With foam there’s no room under the floor do the water will appear way earlier. Thank you for watching I appreciate it
Outstanding
Jeff, when cutting the foam board does it loose it's effectiveness as a closed cell board?
Meaning, does it absorb water in the cut area?
Thanks
I’ve tested it and from my experience it doesn’t. Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it
Hey Jeff, question is as I’m looking this stuff up at lowes is this the insulation that has an r value or is there other that is cheaper that doesn’t? If so it has gone way up since this video. If so do you know of somewhere else to get it that would be cheaper than big box stores? If it is the same thing I saw it’s now 42.99 a sheet. About to replace the floor board of my boat and I’m going to go ahead and do this wile I’ve got it open. Thanks
I got mine at Home Depot when I done mine and yes it has gone up a lot recently. You just need to make sure what ever you get is closed cell. Right now there is no place cheap.
Thanks for watching I appreciate it
Hey jeff whats your thoughts on running a band of that from the stern to the bow on the outside
I’ve put it around the top inside the top cap.
So the only place the foam isn't touching the inside of the hull is about 7" of the very bottom, which is where the water can drain. Other wise the foam is laying on the inside of the hull. Is this correct?
Yes sir pretty much. I like to leave air travel if I can but as long as the bottom is open it can drain and will dry fairly quick
Do you have to squeeze them in there tight to keep them from rattling? Or does it make any difference?
I put them in them put pieces in to squeeze them tight side to side I left air travel under them to allow water to move front to back. My other boat they are totally loose. I can’t tell it.
Thanks
I have 3/16 aluminum floor in my boat do you think thats strong enough to bolt a seat base plate directly to without bracing behind it?
I used the same material but I did add bracing under the area the seat bolted to
I don’t expect to get a reply to this comment, but I will ask anyways. When you cut the foam and then lay down the aluminum overtop of it, or if someone uses wood like original, won’t water lay on top of your foam just like it could lay on top of a pour in foam? Once that water lays there and freezes it can do the same damage as what happened to the pour in foam correct? I know sometimes pour in foam is for structural support, so in that case if you remove it and go with the foam board then you need to have it in there tightly packed to support the stringers, so would I need to put a cut in the top of the foam or something to act as a “drain” so water won’t sit and freeze just like the pour in foam? I’m in the Charlotte NC area and attempting to redo the flooring in my semi-V sea nymph that was my grandfathers and I’ve watched your videos for help, but that one question just keeps coming to mind. Thank you if you ever see this
Thanks for the comment. It’s really not a problem with this type of foam. The cells are way tighter than pour in style foams. The little water you get on top or around it won’t saturate before it just dries up. I had a piece of this foam in a bucket of water with a brick holding it down. After a week when removed it was still bone dry.
As for strength foam provides very little strength in most boat applications. It helps with sound more than anything. I always put extra braces and stringers when I do a boat floor
More great information!!!
How you like that thumbnail lol
@@bowl830 It's scary!!!I may have night mares
Ya that’s expensive but necessary when your boat sinks it’s too late my alternative is to use styrofoam peanuts and contact cement spray if the water doesn’t drain your boat will rot out
What kind of foam sheets are these exactly? I have the same boat. Doing the same thing expect the transom
2” pink closed cell from Lowe’s or home-depot. .
How big were the sheets you got? 4 x8? It 2x8’
4x8x2”
Where do you buy those sheets of foam? Can’t seem to find it anywhere
Home Depot and Lowe’s sells them. I like the homedepot version in 2”.
When putting down a 3/16 aluminum floor Would you use rivets or screws?
I Use rivets with a bead of caulk on ribs if going over aluminum ribs. If and other material I use stainless screws
@@bowl830 what is the purpose of the caulk and what type?
Mainly to prevent vibration. I put a small bead
When you say caulk are you talking about silicone?
Man Jeff your "thumbnail game" improved quickly!!! 😂😂😂
I had to mess with him a little. We’ve been friends over 20 years 😂
@@bowl830 20 years, 2 years. I dont blame you lol. That's funny... Awesome progress on the boat by the way its coming along quickly!
Haaahaa hilarious 🤣
What.!! Ya. Why use wood for stringers. ? 😮
You shouldn’t use wood. There’s no wood in this boat.
Funny what three years does. 2” pink board is now $60/sheet 😡 at HD 6-30-24.
Crazy.
Trust me I know. I own a construction company. Material up 200% since Covid
That thumbnail 😂
He started it he told me I needed to work on my Thumbnails lol 😂
@@bowl830 😂😂 you did just that lol
I had 2nd thoughts on watching after seeing that thumb nail 😂 😂 😂 😂
Lol. I was picking on dieter lol
@@bowl830 I saw where he gave you a hard time about your thumbnails 😂
ALL CAPS HOSS!!! GOBLESS BRUDDAR!!!
Thank you for watching and commenting I appreciate it.