Ford Escape Front End Rattle Over Bumps- Stabilizer Links
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
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In this video I go over the most common source for front end noise on the Ford Escape.
Stabilizer Link Nut- 46 ft lbs
Wheel Lug Nut Torque- 100 ft lbs
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To this date all of your videos about Ford Escapes are the best out there.
Great video!! Ford was trying to tell me it would cost $650 for new tie rod ends.They were positive that was the noise. They were telling my wife how dangerous it was and they should fix it instead of me. I said Bullsh*t!!!! Cost me $16.99 and 30 min of my time and that included test drive. I took the old part and threw it on the service counters desk. I told them I was available for hire because the guys they have I wouldnt trust to put air in my tire!!
$650?? What kind of crack are they smoking. It's like a 10min job for an experienced person.
@@samanthasoto6571
I know, I do hvac. I wanted to kill someone
I call bs to you. Cheap shit was 25. Ipgraded to Moog was almost double times 2! If you did one side thats foolish
Dealers are a bunch of lying thieves!
should have gone to Scotty's
I know this video is 9years old, but paired with a couple others my 2010 with 120k miles on it was quoted almost 4k for everything from the struts/coils, shocks, links, everything in between to be done. $450 in parts and delivery later and you saved me 3.5k. Seriously, excellent videos, thank you.
Good thing this channel exists. My mom's car has exactly the same problem and I fixed it myself for only 31USD which were the price of a pair of stabilizers.
The bad thing was that my mom trusted the dealership. They told my mom that the problem was the stabilizer bushing (which obviously isn't). They made her pay for around 73USD for a pair of bushings that will be shipped from their main office to them for about a month. My mom paid for a part that wasn't the problem. Their service fee for the bushing installation was also very expensive. They'd split the service as one job for 63USD each side which was ridiculous. After looking at the dealership's "findings" I volunteered on buying the stabilizers and doing the job for both the stabilizers and bushing myself which took me around 3 hours including the trip to hardware store to buy the right sized spanners.
This channel helped us a lot. Thank you!
Best channel. I did motor swap from your channel. I can turn wrenches but it's not hobby or job. And now I am use your channel to fix other stuff. Your videos to the point explained it all. You saved me thousands thanks
Have a 2006 Ford Escape and this channel has been absolutely invaluable. Thanks for the content!
Guillermo Sanchez 100% agree
Thanks to Brian he's saved me more money than i want to remember. the shop charged me before up to 2k at one of my many visits.
You have been a life saver for our 2008 V6 Escape family vehicle. Saving us so much money.
Bro. You literally saved me hundreds of dollars! This was exactly what was going on with my escape!!! I was in the parking lot of Auto Zone about to buy some new CV Axels and BOOM!!! I saw you video and it changed my day and saved me some cash! Thanks! Super video!
THANK YOU! I have a 2012 Escape with 126k miles. I was about ready to replace the front struts to try to fix this noise, glad I found this video. I have learned a lot from you over the years.
I bought my 2002 Mazda Tribute a few months back. Thought the noise was ball joints but previous owner replaced all of them. Then I decided it was the struts so I replaced them and springs. Helped a little and had almost given up until I saw your video. The parts were so cheap I had to try it. Didn't seem to be anything left. No one could find the noise. When the mechanic replaced the links not only were all the pivot joints bad but one side was broken in half. Not even connected. It fixed the problem and now drives nice thanks to you. Like the rest, I wish I had watched your video before I did all the other work. Thanks, I was ready to sell it and buy something else. Works great now.
I wanna recommend doing the bushings as well when doing the end links. I replaced links first, and no regrets - they were a bit - loose but the noise remained. I then swapped out the control arms since one had a bad bushing and the ball joints were ready for renewal as well. Also the outer tie rod ends for one busted seal. BUT a strong rattle remained over bumpy roads. Changing the apparently decent sway bar bushings finally did the trick.
Two cheap and easy parts to renew on the sway bar when chasing down rattling noises. And fresh bushings will probably improve the life of end links.
I changed out my noisy end links with some Moog parts. It really did cure the clunk and rattle. Thanks for letting me know to check for this. My stock links did not move around or seem to have slack while mounted. After I got them off, I could tell that they were very easy to move. The new parts are much stiffer. That small amount of movement was still enough to make a lot of noise. That is all gone now with the new parts.
I'm looking at these Moogs on Amazon right now. How are the holding up for you after 9 months?
Thank you so much for this video. I always come to your channel first for my fords. In this case, I just bought a 2010 Escape and while on my test drive, the road was smooth. However upon returning to the farm we live on, we noticed these exact symptoms and horrible noises. Our hearts sunk. We thought "Oh no!" Because it was purchased as an "AS-IS SALE"... Thanks to your helpful channel and your excellent instructions, my husband (who's very good with fixing our own vehicles) was able to learn quickly the cause & mitigation.
You are very good human being for doing this for the public. Thank you again.
I know this video is quite old as of now. I putzed with one of my front lights, and this clunking started same day, so I drove myself crazy trying to make sure the light, panels, etc were fastened down well and the noise continued. I could not figure it out! Just found this video and it sounded exactly like my car. $60 later and an hour under the car, and noises are gone!
You’ve saved my ever eroding sanity and helped me tons!!
I have had the same front end noise/rattle for a while now but finding this video motivated me to fix my problem. My sway bar didn't move as much as yours but it did move/knock a little. After replacing both links, the annoying front end noise is gone. Thanks!
Thanks for the video this helps a lot with this repair ! I paid $250 bux and have had these go bad 3 times in 4 years ! aftermarket parts are junk . thanks again great job !
You are the MAN!!!! Been hearing that noise in my front end of my 2003 Escape. Tried to check for anything loose underneath and could never find anything. Watched your video and replaced mine and that horrible noise is gone! I owe you a cold one!
Terry Krazer Good to hear!
Thank you.saved me a ton of $ 19.99 online.been going nuts over this thinking my strut was bad.
Omg ive been hunting for a diagnostic video to help me isolate the noises. I ordered motor mounts and control arms already... Thank you for including a diag and test section, appreciated
Thanks!! I was sure I was dealing with major bushing replacement, what with all the noise. After seeing your diagnostic drive, I knew you had the answer--thanks loads for including that! I replaced both my links today--took about an hour with hand tools. Now my 2010 is quiet and feels like a new car. Fantastic! Saved $150 off what the local shop wanted to do the job, too.
Good idea to check the sway bar bushings too. They wear out after time and can cause the sway bar to rattle between the space of the bushing and swaybar due to wear.
You're a rockstar! I've been trying to figure this noise out for almost three years. I originally thought it was a strut or strut mount. I looked at the sway bar link but it felt tight and wouldn't rattle when I shook on it. I eventually decided to replace the cheapest part (sway bar end link) and it fixed the problem! The bolt would swivel in the sway bar link very easily compared to the newer and redesigned (moog) sway bar link that I bought.
I also want to thank you for the canister purge valve test you did. Mine was failed. Part is on the way. I also cleaned and oiled the capless fuel filler. Thanks a bunch dude!
AircraftMechanic No problem glad to help!
Sweet!
Thanks for the video. I just swapped out both sides on my 2011. Went smooth as silk because of your vid.
I know this vid is a little old but I must say, THANK YOU to this gentleman and those who post videos to help us out. This not only saved me time and money but a whole lot of BS.
Knowledge is power folks. Thanks again and keep it up.
Thanks for this video! Had this knocking sound for many months. I will say that my drivers side had a lot of play in it. I replaced that side but still heard the knocking (just not as bad). I replaced the passenger side which didn't have any play at all to begin with but oddly enough the knocking problem when away completely after replacement on that side. Odd but just happy that noise is gone.
Thanks again!
Thanks for the video! I replaced my broken linkage and 3 days later had knocking. After watching this I realized that blue thread lock is a must! Both top and bottom came loose. Anyone doing this job, use thread lock!!!
Thanks for the videos. I tried to do these links myself . Got the Escape on stands. The old links were really rusted on. The 5mm was rusted really bad. I changed the passenger side with lots of effort.
I had to go to my neighborhood mechanic to cut torche off the drivers side.
Mechanic charged me 40$ CDN .
What a difference. Like a new car.
No noise .
😊
I did this repair today ....it is a bit of a hard job if you don't have the right tools and a hoist would help a lot . I did it on jack stands in my condo parking garage took me about 2 hours including looking for tools lol . tip : if you don't have impact guns or air tools etc ...you may need a 14 mm gear/ratchet wrench and a 5 mm allen key or hex socket . also I needed my Johnson bar for the lug nuts and to loosen the nuts . the bottom 2 are a bitch to get off because the allen key is on the back side and its tight small hand space. the new ones had the holding nut 17mm which was a piece of cake to install . thanks again for the video it helped a lot ! cheers !
Wow, I’ve been driving with that noise the last 80k miles. Just hit 200k. What a simple fix. Thanks for your videos.
I even replaced the struts hoping that would fix the noise but obviously it didn’t. New struts and tires make this thing ride like new.
Now I think the transmission hydrologic plunger actuators are sticking making the transmission act up.
Juston Preble same here. Not sure if we have gone that long, but it has been bad for at least the past 20k. We replaced the struts, which were worn out, and now will be replacing the stab links.
Terrific video and I think I have finally determined what my problem is. Your video is of very high quality with excellent descriptive audio. Very professional. Thank you for doing this. I will report in again next week. They did both of my control arms as the bushings were shot but it didn't resolve the clunking noise.
Your videography is off the chain! Great job!
Thanks for this important video. I was almost ready to change the whole steering system when I found this video. I checked the sway bar links at once and found indeed there was a tiny play at the front right side. I bought two at NAPA parts and installed at once, though there were some difficulties in removing the old one (upper bolt, I used saw to cut them off). After replacing the links, all the annoying noises have gone, including the "very first turn clunk after parking a while", the braking noise which might be considered to be due to loose chassis, and the metal clicking noise when accelerating up ramp which I had been ascribing to the aging engine or loose engine mount. This video saved me a lot. Thanks again!
I wish I would have watched your video before buying new strut mounts. I swore it sounded like strut mounts. Unfortunately, my stabilizer links didn't have the nice place to hold the joint and use two wrenches. Instead the link moved around like a slippery fish. I used vice grips to squeeze and hold the joint in place. It worked on one side but not the other. I finally won by using a cut off wheel to cut the link off. Changing those links cured my noise and I love my car again...
Ernie Martin yeah me too
Thanks for a very helpful DIY. My son's 2008 Escape needed struts and shocks and your video showed how to identify the 'clunking' sound from the stab links. So i replaced the stab links with Moog. Thanks and keep up the great work for all of us.
Recently had the same on my 2010 Escape. Paid more for the Moogs but I liked that they came with new hardware and have grease fittings.
Great video. I wish mine had the spot for the wrench behind
A worn out steering linkage can produce a very similar noise. That was the issue with my 2012 Escape. Also, the part didn't show how bad it was worn, even when comparing it side by side to the brand new replacement. It was not an intuitive conclusion while troubleshooting the noise because there was no perceptible vibration in the steering wheel. The previous owner of my Escape apparently went into an unsuccessful part changing frenzy trying to eliminate that rattle, and after spending around 2,000 on changing most of the front end, traded it in. I fixed it for less than 200. Thank you FordTechMakuloco for taking the time to help us all out with your videos.
Our '05 Escape (150,000 miles} has that clunky front end, my brother's '03 was the same way. Thanks for this, I thought it had bigger problems. It's been a great car BTW.
My 2014 AWD Lincoln MKS is doing that. Dealership called today and said this is the problem. I thought it was my belly pan so I took it off, but it was still doing it. 44k miles....hmmm...my VW has 270K miles and nothing like this ever happened. Warranty covers it so i'm not touching it but some day I won't have a warranty. You have good informative videos. Thank you!
Excellent video, exactly the noise I have on my 2011 Escape with only 62k miles on it.
Great video! I'm glad I found this before I replaced my control arms and ball joints! Informative and clear. Thanks a lot!
Thank you that is exactly what happen with mine it in the shop today - had replaced the strut, left/right control arms and everything was so frustrated that the noise was still there now hopefully it will be done and I can drive with a peace of mind
OMG! I thought My suspension was shot! Your videos are life savers. You've got yourself a subscriber!
finally got to my brakes today and sure enough, my sway links are toast. going to try the mevotech ones. they worked great on my wife's kia and the link design is almost identical.
Thanks Brian!! I just got a 2006 Escape for a commuter back and forth to work!! It has this rattle!! This has answered my question as to what it might be!! I've also watched the strut replacement video too!! both are very good!! after the first of the year, getting parts to replace!! Thanks again!! Keep up the great video's!!
Thanks. This video helped me find my issue on the Mustang. I am replacing the old links with greaseable links.
Thanks for this video, I have this problem at 70,000 miles and now I know it won't be that expensive to have fixed!
Thank's for the Video! This problem was driving me nut's until I saw your video! I fixed this issue this morning when I put new front brakes on.
Love the Channel!!! VERY INFORMATIVE!!!
TWO THUMBS UP!
MIKE W.
+Kansas City iPhone Doctor Good to hear!
Another great walkthrough - thanks! I changed both stab links on the 06 Tribute and the rattle didn't go away. Also replaced both control arms with new balljoints...still rattling. Any ideas?
hi, i write to say thank´s , i buy the power links from ebay and replacement here in Chile.
amazing the noise is going, so happy whith my car, your videos are the best please continue. thx a lot. bye
Changed them out today spent 30 dollars for both at auto zone 1 hour to change out and boom!!!the noise is gone..good video!!
Thank you for this video. It fixed our issue on my daughters 03 Tribute. We were going to replace the struts till I saw this. Thanks again you saved us some $$.
Since it’s metal knocking against metal, I just used FLEX-SEAL CAULKING to dampen the contact! Kid you not, flex-seal/flex-shot is working surprisingly well. I’m on week 9 and after examination, I see no sign of wear just yet. How well it holds up in the winters of Minnesota, we shall see!
Change the stabilizer links while the vehicle is UNLOADED and front off the ground. Thank you brother, your videos are beyond helpful....
Great video and channel, thanks for the helpful info. Purchased the stab link from your link above, they don't come with nuts. M10-1.25 hex flange nut fit.
Thanks for the video! This noise has been driving me mad!
Very helpful! The sounds are definitely able to travel and sound worse then they are! The cat converter in my 2012 ford fiesta had bolts come loose and fall from the mounting bracket and the noise sounded like a scraping/saw/grinding/metal on metal like a bad rotor and brake pad vs a bad transmission all in one. Needless to say a new bolt to hold it down and noise was gone. I cant believe how things can make such scary noises when its not that bad!
I just changed those on my 2010 five days ago. I, at first, purchased the cheap Chinese made house brand from the local parts store. They were touted as an improved design over OEM. They bolted in but the heads of the ball sockets were too large and rubbed on the inner fender well when I turned the wheel. Took them back and got the Moog. They were also larger, but did not interfere with steering. They are greaseable too.
cjones4512 Moog's are a real good aftermarket option.
Great video quality, I owe you a few beers for all the help you have given me.
I love your site and videos. Extremely helpful when taking my 2007 Escape for servicing and repairs. Knowledge is power. Again, many thanks!!
I'm glad I found this! My 2006 Ford Escape makes that rattling noise and now I can finally fix it!
This car makes the exact same noise im working on at the front and back ends especially,,, thank yoou, ur sucha ford master mechanic!!
I lnow what im checking next
Sure is.Still a lot of value in this old vid of yours. Thanks
THANKS FOR THE GREAT VIDEO. SOUNDS JUST LIKE WHAT I'M EXPERIENCING. I WAS GOING TO GO AFTER THE TIE ROD ENDS, BALL JOINT. I'M GOING TO TRY THIS FIRST.
UPDATE. PROBLEM FIXED. YOU SAVED ME A LOT OF TIME AND MONEY. THANX AGAIN.
Thank you. this is what i have, especially on small successive bumps and it sounds like the entire front end is falling apart and makes a Thud Thud sound. Good to know this is just the stab links. Going in to have these replaced next week and a shop that i buy Ford parts from quoted me $35 each for original Ford stab links
Thanks for the video. I did it and it was very easy. I had no problems. And better yet the noise is gone. Thanks for the tutorial and for saving me some, no, a lot of money.
Thank you for making this video. This was what was making the noise in my 2006 Ford Five Hundred front end.
I do on average at least 2 sets a day here in the quicklane! I find it easier to unholy bolt both sides at the top then your able to swing the sway bar up to gain room on the bottom. Great video sir!
On some yes others the bar will not move.
Thank you. Definitely the culprit on my sons vehicle. Just ordered a set
Ohhhhhh that's why my sway bar link won't line back up with the front strut assembly.. I need to go put the other side up with a jack as well. Thanks man!
Thank you the bill was going to be 250.00 so I did it myself for 45.00 after your video.. !
I dont hear any vibration or other noise now, but earlier in the week I was coming to a full stop and before my vehicule stopped, there was a clunky noise. It sounded it heavy, as if a motor mount or suspension component snapped. I heard another odd noise that sounded like a wheel bearing was ready to be replaced. Both instances happened at the front passenger side. Based on this video, it may be a sway bar component. I was worried it was something in the engine bay. Should be an easy fix. Thanks for sharing!
Just finished doing mine. Thanks to you it was no big deal.
This weekend I'm doing this. THANKS for the clear and helpful video! I sure how this corrects my noises...They're brutal sounding!
Great video. I replaced mine, but it didn't fix the rattling noise. If the noise doesn't go away after changing the stab links for you as well, check the tie rods. Even though I checked the tie rods and they didn't seem loose, I replaced those and the noise is gone.
Those saying that the Escape is poor quality because it's still rather new and the stabilizer links shouldn't be worn out have no idea what they're talking about. Stabilizer links can wear out even on a 2015 from any brand if you are putting a lot of miles on it on rough dirt roads, brick roads, and pothole-riddled roads. If you keep replacing suspension parts and all you do is drive on a smooth, well-maintained freeway then yes, you are driving a poor quality vehicle.
Jim Garrison Agreed on any car this is a wear item.
Ty for this video. You saved me $600
That was a ton of info while i saved a ton of money, great video. Thanks a lot, my 2001 Ford Escape will thank you later.
some don't have nut but a allen wrench through the end. don't forget to put red locktight on new threads. I used better quality after markets that have metal bushings..
blasted clickity-clack sound! so that's what it is! the same thing, always at low speeds over small obstacles. I am ogig to do this next weekend, thanks, very well explained and illustrated.
Great video-----I've got a 2011 Ford Explorer that is making the same noise. Not sure if the Explorer is configured like the Escape but I'm going to check these next warmer day when I can get ours up on the jack. You may very well have solved my really annoying front end noises on what otherwise is a really nice vehicle to drive! Thank you!!
Hi Brian, really hope you do a video on the subframe replacement on the 09-12 Escape.
OK! Wish I'd seen this earlier. I now have NEW struts, no change! Bought an entire KIT to replace everything else, for $50 more than the stabilizers. ONLY needed the Stabilizers. GREASE THEM REGULARLY folks! I also made sure my Smallest grease gun can reach the Zert Certs...
My 2009 Ford Escape Limited has 225000 miles same problem driving us crazy,(thanks so much)
Love this channel. Very helpful to maintain my old ford
Installed these , but just went over a bad mtn. road with braking bumps for 15 miles, make sure and tighten the nuts properly AND USE LOCKTITE, mine came lose on one side and sounded like the frt. axle was broke! It will destroy the mounting hole if you drive it too long on a bad road.
Great video! I did this repair and it solved the noise problem in the front. I also have a clunking noise in the rear when on a rough road. Could the rear links possibly be the cause of that? Maybe shocks also?
excellent video. I'm fixing up my Escape, it has been a excellent vehicle for me. but after 113,000 miles the original parts are starting to need replacement.
Love your videos...thx and keep them coming. Just fantastic...you're really professional and educational.
Is the process the same for the 2003 escape on these. Anything special I should keep in mind for those? That same noise has driven me nuts and I've replaced struts and ball joints and outer tie rods before finally finding this video. I probably needed those too but that sound has been the bane of my existence.
love this channel, so happy i stumbled uppon it, keep up the awesome work, God Bless!
Awesome! Working on a 2009 Escape. Thanks for the information.
Thanks for the video, noise was driving me nuts.
Great vid! Exactly what my 2011 is doing. Now I know what component to change. Thanks for the upload and the great information.
UPDATE:
Beware of cheap sway bar links. I made this repair on my 2001 Escape with sway bar links bought locally that cost $13.99 each and they
didn't last 6 mos before the seal broke and I was right back at square one. The second time I paid for the Moog @ $23.99 each and they're doing fine. If you're doing this repair, suck it up and buy the heavy duty ones and I promise you'll save yourself another headache.
Thank you for your time and effort in making these videos, you da man!
I am on my SECOND pair of these damn things and they are starting to rattle again after only about 10k miles. I am pretty sure I bought FoMoCo too!
This just helped me out big time my rear end is.making the same noise.
I had the same problem but did't know exactly what is was till I replaced the links on my 07 escape and the noise stopped. Thanks thumb up!
I save all your videos!
My 04 escape, had Ford genuine replacement stab links but they didn’t have the holding nut on the back and they were rusted bad. tomorrow, I’m cutting them off with an angle grinder and replacing with moog.
Thx I'm certain this is gonna apply to my wife's 2010 mariner same damn noise! Thx alot for your time And efforts to make this video!
Great deal at $50 for the pair... Cheap fix for an irritating problem.. thanks
I have a ford flex making the same noise . I already have the parts it was a guess now I know due to your vid . Thanks for sharing