This is Why I NEVER Trust Aftermarket Automotive Parts!
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- čas přidán 29. 04. 2024
- In this video we show you a perfect example of how aftermarket parts can really throw you for a loop and cause unnecessary automotive repairs. @ford #automotive #automotiverepair #enginerepair #failure #ford #fordtaurus #aftermarketparts
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Also never throw a part away until you 100% sure that you actually fixed the problem with the new part.
Even with small equipment engines, OEM is the way to go in most cases. The extra cost is almost always worth it. After market made in China has its value at times. It’s my last resort.
Most aftermarket parts are junk! People bring them to me after the parts cannon has exploded under the hood. The first thing I ask is "Do you have the old parts?" so I can put it back like it was and start troubleshooting with the original problem. Thanks!
Especially for sensors / electronics
I work on appliances and do the same thing
Yep, I run Toyotas and Hondas, but every time I try to save money with an aftermarket part, surprise surprise within 20-40 thousand miles I am going back in there to replace it with an OEM part.
@@chkpik Exactly! Thanks!
There's quality aftermarket parts(which are usually OE suppliers), and then there is the cheapest thing people can find. Big difference..
like a Bosch O2 or ngk plug, just watch for fake parts
I learned a long time ago not to buy aftermarket electric parts for cars because a lot of the time they either don’t work straight out of the box or fail soon after.
Yep, I'll take used OE's over a cheapo aftermarket. Especially a critical part like an O2, maf sensor, crank sensor, cam sensor...
A 5 minute search will tell you who makes the OE one and save you 50-75%
@@volvo09 I do this a lot. I live next to a you pull yard though.
Lol the shop is cheap, they've put a 3rd aftermarket coil in 3yrs on the #5 hole on the 6.2 in the f250 work truck.
I 100% agree, anything electronic must be OEM, especially MAP & MAF sensors 100% failure rate on after market when I watch videos on this stuff.
This is why I love when Rock Auto specifies when a non-Motorcraft part is the OE provider. Can get the right part, a better price, and in the case of brake calipers, sometimes a better warranty
I'll second that!
In the vw world theres a great place to source your parts from , because they do the same thing and you can get oe or oem parts from them.
So how many good OEM parts were replaced with inferior parts? Shouldn't this video be titled?: " Pay for a diagnosis. DO NOT fire the parts cannon."
Rockauto is one of the few aftermarket sites that's still trustworthy and not totally swamped with counterfeit junk.
@@TheOverisel I tell people all the time "Just pay for an hour or two of diagnostics before you start throwing the parts store at it!" But nobody ever listens.
I luckily have never needed to diagnose or trace down a bad O2, but this is amazing knowledge to have. No one believes me when I say parts can be ‘bad’ out of the box where ‘bad’ doesn’t necessarily mean broken but more so just not ‘calibrated’ correctly when dealing with electronics.
That can really throw people for a loop, when a new part doesn't get along with the computer so the code you were chasing either stays, or changes to something related but different. Due to an incompatible part.
You are one of the few that do the job correctly. I started in the 1980s out of school with GM. I loved it, I got factory training which was the best. We were trained to always run the flow chart tests and never skip anything just because we had seen a problem before. For customer satisfaction, I was part of a team of only 1500 technicians nationwide our job was to find and fix driveability problems that the dealer could not figure out so GM could improve customer satisfaction. There was not one problem we did not fix. The factory always had the latest design and if any updates were needed you got them in the new part. Some problems would not be part of a recall as they did not meet that criteria. The aftermarket electronic part was always about ten years behind the factory part. Many of my customer's cars would have drivability problems that they never complained about but when I would replace a module to fix some other problem with the newest updated model they would tell me the car had never run better. With the aftermarket part, the car would run but would still have the driveability problems of not being updated. Most of the time you get what you pay for. Technicians I see today seem to just want to be parts R&R guys and just replace the part that the computer code is related to and never run the tests to see if it is really bad or some other problem. Sadly, today few want to do the work that is needed to do the job right.
Just for laughs the problem you cannot fix was the technicians prior to you looking at the vehicles😅
I agree 100% but the only thing you cannot fix are the technicians or parts changers prior to you doing the repair it's very unfortunate in our industry that those that can do it correctly usually cannot compete with the parts changers the true technicians wind up with the real nightmares and from what I've seen in all my years the customer in many cases does not understand and wanting too pay accordingly 😔
@@cheapers1952 I am retired now, so the kids must deal with it.
@@Go4Corvette after 52 years I'm also pretty much done but I do have shops that will call me from time to time requesting to "assist" them with their 2 week old problem lol
@@cheapers1952 I worked 44 years, 10 years of that managing/owning 3 retail stores but divorce took care of that so the last two years were with Carmax, and now I only help friends and family while I travel around the USA in my RV. Good luck.
Case in point: I had a customer with a 2004 6.0 F350 call with an erratic idle. He had changed the IPR and ICP pigtail and done a lot of work to the truck. I started from the bottom and worked my way up. On cold starts once it got to a certain point, the erratic idle would start and continue until the coolant temp got past a certain point. Once it did and stayed past that point, it ran fine all day. When I got to the top the engine and sensor list, I found his problem: it turns out he used an aftermarket IPR that caused his problem. I swapped in a Motorcraft IPR and he’s been fine ever since.
I used to use aftermarket a lot for my vehicles but have come to the point where I rarely do, as I’ve found they often don’t even fit right, let alone function properly.
it's in your head. OEM changes each contract.
@@davidporter7051 I’ve started to get aftermarket junk that doesn’t physically fit. Haven’t had that happen yet with OEM but I’m sure it’s coming.
Brian, you're the best technician out there. Experience and honesty have served you and all your customers well.
Unfortunately alot parts are discontinued from ford and have to use the crappy parts store garbage.
Used OEM parts are ok
I’ve seen issues like this with 02 sensors even on old Fords as well.
Case in point a 1989 5.0 Mustang. Quick look on RockAuto for example shows several brands of 02 sensors are available for that vehicle.
In my case the car had replacement Bosch 02’s installed and had some drivability quirks. Was able to monitor voltages coming out of them and they were erratic in their output. Replaced them with the OE sensors (which were NTK) and the problem was fixed and the drivability quirks went away.
Since that experience I always tell folks if they have to replace 02s to get them from the dealer or at the very least verify the brand Ford used and replace with that brand and part number.
New OEM parts can be lemons as well... not as often, but it does happen.
Especially Ford parts.
Yes the OEM parts are junk as well. Just found my (2000) Grand prix has broken front sway bar , it's HOLLOW NOT SOLID. aftermarket is solid. Every thing nowadays is JUNK.
Friend laughed at me because of what I paid for the OEM fuel pump for my Mustang.
He got his “brand name” fuel pump on eBay for his Explorer at 1/3 the price I paid for mine.
Four months later his fuel pump died while on a family vacation. Pump was counterfeit.
Counterfeit parts are a *huge* problem, and growing. I have a hard time trusting ebay automotive sellers now, and I'm an ebay veteran.
Lol 😆
Great information . Never buy cheap aftermarket parts especially when it comes to O2 sensors . Once had to change an alternator in a snow storm , 3 times until I got one that worked !
You can't imagine the anger !
Sounds like Pep Boys parts!!
We used to have certain year Fords that you would go thu multiple OE Motorcraft alternators, only to be told by a field engineer to try a NAPA one. And it worked. So, it's not just an aftermarket problem.
Wish all mechanics had this guys knowledge! And ran their business in the same manner!
I used to be a Ford technician 20 years ago and always ran into these issues, one time a shop replaced 2 oxigen sensors and 2 cat monitor sensors on a 2000 F150 because it was throwing lean codes, they had charged the customer something like 600 dollars and the codes were still there. Lol
All it was, the PVC valve had popped off the grommet and was sucking excessive unmetered air. Shop threw the parts cannon at it though, customer was shocked when I showed him the PCV just hanging there sucking in air. 😂😂
5-6 years ago I had an AFRS code in an F150,I don’t remember the exact code. Replaced the sensor with an aftermarket sensor and it threw the exact code again, tried a different brand-same code, went done the rabbit hole…. I finally convinced my service manager to get an OE sensor and guess what, it fixed the problem. Yes it was almost double the cost, but wasted time on the other’s.
Same with an ‘05 Solara cooling temp sensor for fans . Two new aftermarket’s before a costlier oem sensor fixed it . Go figure !
In Canada where dealer labor rates are $180 plus it wouldn’t take long to exceed the cost of an OEM part. Might as well just go OEM to begin with.
I learned this years ago the hard way. I appreciate what you’re saying which reinforces my past experiences. To explain I had the original equipment alternator that wasn’t changing the battery. Replaced the battery as it was no good and a aftermarket alternator. A week later the new battery was not able to start the car. Took that alternator off and replaced it with another aftermarket alternator and again the battery went dead in a week. I then up my game and bought a FOMOCO alternator for $250.00 bucks and never had another charging issue with that vehicle.
I have experienced the same thing with alternators also.
Starters and alternators, no chain stores for me. Used , high quality aftermarket such as Denso or oem.
That's why rebuilding components is coming back around again from what I see.
And that's why I just threw a set of brushes and bearings in my alternator so it's 'rebuilt".
Sure those parts could be possible junk but I figure it's less of a gamble over a new/reman component.
Most times you go to the wrecking yard, and the parts are the OEM parts! Plus you get a heck of a deal!! Of course it needs to be an older vehicle.....usually.
Absolutely true! I've found that brand-new non-OEM stuff is often way out of spec for resistance values, etc, even on reputable aftermarket brands.
"What do you mean the TPS is throwing the same code, I just replaced it" 🤣
I got burned twice with parts on bmws. It’s not worth the hassle. First was a cam position sensor and the new replacement ran worse then the bad original with 200k+ miles. Next was a thermostat that was defective and making me chase my tail on what else was wrong.
Turns out when the computer tells you the thermostat is defective even after you replaced it 2 times it’s actually still defective 😂😂😂 😭😭
I got a bad MAF sensor for my wife’s BMW that didn’t even have an element in it..
It was just a Chinese scam piece..
Did you test the thermostat before installing? I usually do this if it's a hard to access job.
Four Denso ignition coils for my Corolla on EBAY for just $60? What a deal! Gimme More, more, more!
YOU ARE THE BEST MECHANIC I KNOW!!
YOU JUST EXPLAINED EVERY POSSIBLE WAY TO DIAGNOSE O2 SENSOR CODE WITH A SCAN TOOL. EVEN A BAD CAT. GENIUS YOU ARE.
When I was a dealer tech I went threw 5 ecm’s till I got a good one, and they were factory ecm’s !! When the 1st one did not work I spent 2 days doing the check list the tech support people gave me and the next one they put a different tech on it and had him recheck all the stuff. A total night mare and I only got 4 hours customer pay and 4 from factory and I had at least 30 hours in it 🤦🏼♂️ good thing the tool box had wheels because roll it did out of that shop!!!!
I don't know why any competent technician would continue to work at a dealership today. The horror stories they tell about not getting paid for their time are frightening.
@@chiplangowski3298 it’s the belief that one has that your are working at an elite level only to find your working for the most micro managing people ever!!! It’s about the numbers!! Not the customers!! Not the expectations!!
@@chiplangowski3298 Sometimes that is why techs resort to scamming a customer for cash work so they can make time/money on jobs. Many techs get guarantee pay for the week when they lose on such jobs! The dealership doesn't care and neither does the manufacturer. If you work 40/wk, you may get 32/wk as a guarantee pay instead of the 40 hr pay. Flat rate can screw you over as a tech.
Love your content! Seriously big Fan and Tech that likes fixing these 5.4 and 3.5 issues to get them up and running. I tell everyone I fix cars for that specially when it comes to the electronics to not skimp on them and get OEM.
OEM rules! - I just got burnt on Chinese Cruise Control sw. assembly. Replaced OEM due to cracked sw. covers. Installed new switches, test drove and my horn would blow when I hit coast, it Was not interference from wires. Installed OEM switches to the new wiring and problem resolved. Never again will I buy after market electronic anything for my cars.
I learned my lesson with aftermarket electronics when I had to replace the Neutral Safety switch on my F-150 and just bought a Duralast from Auto Zone. Started and ran just fine from park, but one day, I decided to test the 4wd, including 4L, and it would not shift into 4L. Tried starting the truck in Neutral, and it wouldn't start, so I ordered a Motorcraft replacement from Rock Auto. No more issues after that.
When I first bought my truck, I bought the Duralast coil packs, and while I haven't had issues for over 50,000 miles, I definitely don't expect them to last as long as the Motorcraft. When they go out, I'm going to at least buy the brand that makes the coils for Motorcraft (Denso, if I remember correctly).
Thanks to your video's, I only use Motorcraft parts on my 2013 Ford F-150. No regrets!
Smart choice!
And I bet you go through a lot of parts .lol
I appreciate the speedy reply. Keep it up with your valuable videos.
Awesome demonstration and instruction.
Thank you , great content on this video . Always learn something from this channel , one of my favorite .
If I put non oem parts on my vehicles, I put the OE supplier 99% of the time. Case in point, my Mercedes-AMG needed a power steering resivor, and while the official one was $50, I bought the OE supplier, which was Lemforder. The Lemforder unit had the Mercedes-Benz part number cast into it, but they scrubbed the Mercedes-Benz logo off. I saved $30 and still got what the dealership would've put on it.
I work for an auto parts store, and some of our brand of items are OE parts. We had a clock spring for an E-150 van that was a FoMoCo part and a purge valve for a Toyota that was a Denso/Toyota on the label even though it was our box.
NGK is a OE supplier for some models.
I enjoy "The Hunt." Try to find info on OEM suppliers, then scour the internet for part numbers and hard-to-find parts. When I get that rare part in the mail I feel like a detective solving a cold case. 😏
Thanks Brian another great video!
I had a similar experience working on an E36 M3. Check engine light was on and indicated possible unmetered air coming in. Replaced the MAF with a Delphi MAF for $120 as the OEM one was $400+. Was okay for 100 miles or so and check engine light came on for a range of other codes including O2 sensor, etc. O2 sensors and other parts were replaced and no change. Finally found a used BMW MAF and swapped it in, and all was good. The Delphi MAF was likely giving wrong readings and throwing everything else downstream off.
You are one of the best! Thanks for all you do.
new only means it's shinny. Great example!
I've seen so many after market sensors that just don't work at all. Cranks sensors, cam sensors, Air fuel ratio sensors, 02 sensors, knock sensors that just leave you with the same problem.
Great advice, thanks.
One has to think about all the cars and trucks out there with faulty aftermarket parts because they were the lowest bidder. The standard of what should be right is so deteriorated today its constantly a crap shoot to repair your vehicle. Alternator I bought from Napa caught on fire and almost burnt my van down. Thankfully a kid on a skateboad was going by and put the fire out with his water bottle.
I've gotten parts from NAPA and had them come out of a napa box with a ford logo on the part. Also had stuff dead wrong. Best was a threaded sensor where the threads were all concentric rings with no pitch. Thankfully have a local alternator rebuilder here and they are top notch. Need to source the unobtanium ford focus starter gasket, they have them.
Never thought about the rear O2 as a catylyst monitor. Appreciate your videos Thank you
I recently got burned on some premium NAPA parts. Never again
NAPA is just selling the same low quality parts as the rest these days
This Ford Tech is makin me loco!
1000% agree with you. Great video...
I had issues with both the cam and crankshaft sensors on my 97 Dodge Grand Caravan. Changed them twice as they failed within two weeks. Oem parts put the problem to bed.
Same here with an oil pressure switch on my 2000 Town & Country. Wasted time and money on the "Standard" brand, which set the light at idle because it was miscalibrated. Bought a Mopar switch and never had another problem.
Great video, I learned some thing new today!
He’s correct…
2016 Expedition:
Blower motor stopped working. Sourced a cheaper replacement from AutoZone; Delphi brand. Installed it, and nothing. Made sure everything was connected properly, and nothing. Ended up being a poorly designed connector that would not seat on the factory harness. In other words, the male-to-female connection would not mate; they were misaligned.
2004 Expedition:
Mass airflow sensor went out. Bought a Delphi from AutoZone. Replaced the bad component. Started it, and had the same symptoms as before swapping MAF’s. After further investigation found the same scenario… connector would not completely seat because the connector pins would not align.
WTF?!?! Between my wasted time. All the running around to get parts. Return parts. Go to Ford to source correct parts… I spent way too much time/ money than I had to.
If you can avoid aftermarket parts do so. There is one caveat… if the OEM part is known to be a problem/ doesn’t last as long as is expected per design, then I would try to source something different. Other than that… OEM.
I agree mostly with your final statements this was a great assessment to understanding how a system operates what you should be reading and what is actually being read my guess is it was nothing but a bunch of parts changers that were just changing parts out right out the gate even if they have a scan tool they most likely do not understand what they are looking at so you're demonstration was a perfect example of being able to read and understand what's taking place on a scan tool Bravo young man and of course the customer will probably ask you how come no one else could see this ⁉️
Another great video. During my time as a Ford Parts Manager I discovered that a high percentage of aftermarket electronic parts were incompatible with the vehicle or dead out of the box. If the part was Dorman brand it was even worse. Motorcraft parts have a 2 year unlimited mile warranty, why not use them? They were designed for the vehicle. Also there are way too many do it yourselfers working on vehicle systems that they know absolutely nothing about. This video is a perfect example of that. Brian, as always, keep up the good work.
Ford has a habit of discontinuing Motorcraft parts for older vehicles even when the original manufacturer of the original part is still making them.
It greatly depends on the Brand of Aftermarket Auto Parts. I sold Auto Parts for 20 years. I know that not everything you get from the "Stealership" is quality either. Fine line when buying Auto Parts.
The game has dramatically changed in the past 4 years....
I had the same issue on my 2014 Taurus. I had replaced the oxygen sensor with a Bosch one and the code came right back. Took it to a shop and they didn't see anything wrong, but they recommended replacing with a Denso. I changed it with a Denso and haven't had the issue since.
Lots of problems on those 3.5 Taurus. Not the worst car that Foed made, which ain’t saying much. They basically had to get out of making cars because recalls were costing them too much.
You can now add the Chev Malibu to that list. This is the last year that GM is building it. Remember the Chev Malibu 396 SS, oh well😢
I’m not a big fan of aftermarket parts but occasionally have to use them since one of the vehicles I have is a 2007 Grande Marquis and some parts take weeks to get. This winter I had to replace the heater motor resistor with an aftermarket part and it doesn’t work like the OE part and occasionally the battery will go dead if the car sits a few days. Hard to go without a heater in the winter but I will be replacing that part with the Ford part.
This should be on the evening news for all car owners to know. Thanks again, great tutorial.
Thank You.
Thanks for the video.
I went through 3 maff sensors just to get a good one because there is no more oem ones for a 03 6.0
Over here in Australia - the OEM stuff just isn't available. It's aftermarket or broken over here unfortunately. So we have to find out what aftermarket parts are the best available (or buy from the USA at 3 times the cost plus the same in shipping costs.
A 200 part in the USA costs us 600 + 600 shipping, and a 3 month wait most of the time and even then, they can't match it to our VIN numbers anyway. Its much much more difficult for us.
Soon in Australia most Gas cars will be illegal as in Europe and many States of the USA...
I’ve got bad MotorCraft parts!! It happens to all vendors .
I have as well. But they are usually solid. Bad piston in an auto trans that leaked down burned me.
Me too, and I've got aftermarket parts that worked for years.
Avoid Advance and Autozone parts at all costs. They stock the absolute cheapest made replacement parts available. Especially electrical parts. Rockauto is the first and usually the only place I purchase parts anymore. They supply enough information to make a more informed decision on the quality of the item I'm looking for. They carry top quality options, down to economy options to save money.
2 reman and 1 new alternator from parts stores DOA. Spent $25 for an alternator at junk yard and vehicle runs fine.... thank goodness it was 10 minute job.
Growing up in Ontario we didn’t have much money so we often went to the junk yard to get replacement parts, seems to be a lost art nowadays.
Needed a RR brake caliper for a 2017 Nissan Titan. Needed it quick so tried AutoZone, O’Reilly, and Advance, all they had was a 2piston caliper while the original was a single piston caliper. So called the closest Nissan dealer - they could have one there in two days, but before I ordered it I asked how many pistons it had, and they said two. Finally went to RockAuto and they had a Raybestos caliper that matched the original Nissan one. So much for always going OEM!
thanks Brian
There is a strong sentiment that "new" = "good."
Ebay and Amazon do not help the cause.
Thank's for to share yours videos.
Really you are the best man! 😮
My brother gave me grief once for paying twice as much for an OEM starter for my van, until he had to change the alternator twice in his truck in 2 weeks, then he bought an OEM one for twice as much and has been good ever since. Now he only buys OEM if funds allow.
The alternator is definitely an oem purchase if you can afford.
Thanks... You, Eric O, and Ivan convinced me of OEM years ago....!!!!
Exactly. Words to be headed.
Good diag. Never assume parts are ok.😍👍
it wasn't bad 12 years ago but now i don't waste my time even now altanators,starters,shocks,especially electrical,brakes, and motor parts.litereally everything is garbage now from most aftermarket.
Federal bought Moog. Now, they put Moog on their parts box, along with the rest of the logos of the brands they own, and call their Federal car part a Moog part. A parts store tried to do this to me and said "It's the same thing." I told him "No, a Moog part is built like a tank. This Federal part is built like a twig, and in China. You keep it." Now I buy Ford parts when I can.
I agree, BUT what do you do when you can't get OEM anymore? For example my 2006 Explorer, with the recalled shift interlock electronic lockout issue. After a while the Motorcraft board goes bad, and it does not unlock the shifter to go into reverse. I searched AND searched AND searched for a replacement OEM board about a year ago...guess what I had to go with...a aftermarket dorman electronic board. Granted it a very simple board with only a few traces, but as vehicles age OEM parts are harder to find. Has worked flawless since I installed it, BUT I'm still wary of how long it will last. Simply couldn't find the OEM and I wasn't about to have the dealership destroy the interior clips and bits either.
And you able to repair the oem board? Solder on some new wire to fix the burnt traces.
@@FishFind3000 It's a great suggestion but on mine I found no burnt traces, corrosion, or other hard problems. My guess was a surface mounted component failed, and I didn't have the tools or experience to find / replace those parts. However I do 100% agree with repairing actual parts when possible rather than going aftermarket. Just couldn't see what was the problem with my tools and skillet
@Chris-eh3du although doorman is aftermarket, it is much better than some Chinese brands that aren't even real words.
Same problem with my 07 Explorer Sport Trac, the FPDM corroded and failed. Module is no longer available from Ford, had to use Dorman unit. Same for the driveshaft when the hanger bearing fails.
I'm all for using a Motorcraft part but after ten years that can be a problem with what's available.
You buy what you can get and move on with life. Come back to it if you have an issue again. I actually use quite a few Dorman parts, not because I have loyalty to them. I use them because people rag on them and call them junk. I want to see how bad they really are. Plus price difference can be 1/3-1/2 price. I actually have great luck with the stuff.
I REALLY need to quit messing around and get a laptop with a live feed scanner my sct is good and all but really lacks in selection 😮💨
It really depends on what it is. Do you NEED an OEM side mirror? Nope, not really. Do you NEED an OEM sensor? I would say yes.
I wish I possessed a mere thimble-full of your Ford knowledge, Brother. You deeply impress me!
Just replaced my FoMoCo made in China water pump with 79000 on it in my 2016 F-150, not impressed with the reliability so I went with a Napa tru-flow. Hopefully it will last longer. I would however agree totally on electric use parts; sensors, processors, etc., buy oem whenever possible.
If you’re in this business long enough you’ll see OEM parts bad out of the box too. Always recheck your new parts if it doesn’t fix the issue, and don’t go for the parts cannon if the first try doesn’t work. This is especially true if you’re diagnosing an issue after someone else already worked on it.
I learned a long time ago as well especially electronic parts like mass air sensors and stuff like that because they're not calibrated so the way the factory calibrates them so they never work right to begin with if they even work at all
Yeah, I learned this lesson with my first part. I went through 3 different parts and found the damn things wouldn’t even fit or work. I bought a motor craft part and on the road I went
I should have listened to you about replacing Ford electrical parts with genuine Ford parts. I bought an aftermarket replacement windshield wiper motor that worked for 3 months, then quit working. So I spent the money on a genuine Ford wiper motor and have had no problems with it.Thanks for what you do.
We’ve seen aftermarket thermostats freak out the temperature gauges on newer Chevy Colorados and aftermarket MAF sensors do really crazy crap. I’m a Ford guy and I use only OE or rebuild. I always say NO to Dorman parts.
Absolutely 💯
If an OEM part lasts a good long time, I replace it with the same OEM part. If the OEM is known to be junk then I look into the aftermarket parts
I recentley had to change my Bank 2 Sensor 1 O2 on my 2011 F150 ecoboost w/ 162k miles. I know I could have easily gone to the local parts stores and get a Bosch or something that has a decent reputation, but instead I went straight to the local Ford dealer (thanks to this channel) and got the Motocraft part. Replaced it, running fine again.
Many times customers find me after they changed out all the better quality oem parts using aftermarket junk then find me to chase down the original fault. After spending hours removing all the bannana left from the monkeys i find the problem but the customer already ran out of money. Had one customer insist on using a lifetime warranty starter on a 7.3 when the real problem was stripped out mounting bolts from repeated starter changes... sigh
Yup, had to replace an aftermarket alternator, that was installed by a sister shop. The thing worked fine but every minute, it would increase the voltage by 1 or 2 , for about 5 secs and then go back down. The charging system didn't like it, and after some testing, I noticed the issue, test some stuff and swapped in a oem alternator, no charging issue after that.
I learned this lesson, but love it when the OEM discontinues parts forcing you to buy aftermarket- makes it hard to maintain older vehicles
I wish you lived closer
Flat out bad ass ford tech !!
Plz plz plz do some videos on what cheaper diagnostic tool options there are that can do all these troubleshooting procedures you are doing. I would love to be an able to diagnose stuff as efficiently and effectively as you do.
Some Chrysler products at least back in the day used to put what they called a biasing voltage on the sensor output line. Once the sensor warmed up and started producing a signal that signal would override the biasing voltage. I remember seeing 5 V out of the sensor when it was cold and being really confused. It’s apparently what they were doing to tell if the sensor was warmed up and if the sensor heater was working properly. I still can’t get my head around how the sensor voltage overrides the bias voltage but that’s apparently how it works.
Not just electric/electronic parts, I’ve had issues with engine mounts in toyota vehicles
When it comes to new parts, new does not mean good!
Wish you would make some forscan diagnosis videos for the 5.4 3v
Good mechanics aren't easy to find.
I'm not a mechanic, I'm a monkey with a wrench.
But it's much appreciated when people share there bread and butter knowledge.
This also applies to old school. One time I replaced three sets of points on a 69 Camaro, finally had it towed to a mechanic and sure enough it was the points. Oddly enough the points that mechanic put in the distributor, he had gotten from the same auto parts place that I had gotten them from.
I only use NOS parts on my cars
I've been fighting P2A00 and P420 errors on my 2006 Nissan Altima. I've made about a dozen videos documenting my efforts to fix these codes. Replaced the MAF sensor first, then the 02 sensors, then the catalytic converter. I'm hoping this video applies to Nissans as well. I used TRQ aftermarket O2 sensors, but have bought Denso sensors now to see if the TRQ sensors were bad out of the box. The original problem was when I had the valve cover gasket replaced and when they reassembled they folded the intake boot that cause a small air leak. I did not find this problem until after replacing everything. I believe that when you disturb old 02 sensors and have to force them out because the are stuck, that they often become damage; which is why fixing the air leak only improved the readings but didn't fix the problem.
Recently I installed a "standard motor products" power steering pressure sensor on a 08 F150 , it caused the truck to no start or run horribly. I popped it the oem ford pressure sensor and it ran perfectly again. Super easy to go down a rabbit hole of changing other parts. Thankfully I knew better. Not long ago I installed a NTK crank sensor on a dodge stratus , the car would barely stay running. I put the oem crank sensor back in and it ran great... you really cant trust aftermarket crap.
NTK is an OEM supplier of parts for some major car brands
@@30kendel I know that, that's why I thought I could trust it. I got burned that time lol
"Standard" is one brand I religiously avoid for aftermarket electrical. In my experience their failure rate out of the box is over 50%.
You probably have to use a scan tool for the NTK sensor or any new sensor to calibrate/synchronize them. I believe Ford has an option for that on my Autel maxisys but not sure on Dodge.
Had a Mustang recently with an aftermarket FRP sensor in with lean codes and ran horrible. Custs just don't to hear I have to replace your new sensor. The OE part fixed all the issues.
I long for the days where you could go to town and get what you needed from NAPA and know it would work. Sadly they had to relax stds to compete on price.☹️
This also it true with counterfeit parts that look exactly like OEM.
Don’t ever use aftermarket timing components on an ecoboost. Did it once and learned the hard way after having to pay 10x as much for a new engine as the oem parts would have cost. Failed after 6 months fully stretching the timing chain and shearing the “woodruff key” off of the crank. Could have maybe fixed that engine for 5x or 6x the cost of the oem parts but opted for the new engine from Ford and not one of those shady aftermarket engine suppliers.
I rebuilt the front suspension and replaced the brakes on my daughter's 2002 Ford Ranger 2WD last summer. I used all Ford and Motorcraft parts except for the lower control arms because those had been discontinued by Ford. I went with the Moog aftermarket parts for those. Everything went together perfectly.
With the exception of a few things like shocks and oil, I only use Ford and Motorcraft parts on my three Ford vehicles.