When Should You Use Anti-Seize On Spark Plugs? | Counter Intelligence
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- čas přidán 22. 08. 2024
- Anti-seize shouldn’t be used on all spark plugs, which could come as a surprise to some DIYers and technicians. Learn more from Brake & Front End Editor Andrew Markel and Counterman Editor Mark Phillips.
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As someone who's worked on everything from all cast iron to full aluminum engines, I have had more that enough trouble to be sure to use anti-seize on every plug I install. When you have backed out a plug that didn't have any anti-seize on it and the aluminum threads come with it, or can't get it out of a cast head AT ALL, you'd understand why I'd do that no matter the coating on the plug or head type. Just because an engineer says something, it doesn't mean that's how it works in real life.
@hellcat1988 Real talk!!
As a 15-year technician I totally agree
That squeaking and tearing sound when even backing them out slowly is enough to make me always use nickel antiseize.
I'm somewhere in between on this one. Yeah, I would probably use a tiny bit in most real-world cases, but if you're servicing a Ferrari with ridiculous chromium steel threads on the plugs, that has 20:1 compression ratios and plugs that actually DO specify something absurd like "65 ft lbs of torque" (I mean what???), then yeah the guy in the video has a point.
Thank you for this lol I didn’t wanna listen to him ANYWAY. I felt like my intuition was right about this.
is this where the term arm chair mechanic came from?
As a lifelong motorcyclist who has always done my own servicing I have never used anything on the threads and never used a torque wrench on spark plugs.Never once had a problem.I still use the method I learned in 1967 as an apprentice mechanic.Screw it in finger tight then nip it up and stop when you feel the gasket compress.
What do you mean by “nip it up”
He gasket only compresses ounce what do you do the second time round?.
65 ft/lbs? HOLY MOTHER OF GOD MAN
My service manual specifies 18 ft/lbs for plugs on my aluminum heads.
I died laughing at that comment
First, a pic of silver anti sieze gobbed on. Then, sixty-five pounds of torque? I'm done listening to them. To get his plugs out, use a little WD-40 and compressed air. Hopefully, he didn't ruin the heads. I recommend a little, and I mean a little copper anti-sieze.
What? Aren't you supposed to use an impact gun??? LoL, Personally, I just bottom the plug and go another inch or while using a 10" ratchet. But, I guess I'll be torquing them from now on.... but not 65 ft-lbs!!! It's a spark plug, not a bracket bolt.
I have been in the car business for over 40yrs and always use antiseize been there when others did not working on those disasters
I have been using "anti seize*" on thread engagements for over 40 years under the most stringent quality control codes in the world. Using anti seize on spark plugs is child's play. Just DO NOT put any of the compound on the first 4 threads; because the first 3 threads are started threads and can allow some of the metallic particles in the anti seize to be pulled into the combustion zone and coat the surface of the part of the spark plug that is with in the combustion chamber and causing the electric current to short to the engine head and ground. BUT if used wisely it make life so much easier when removing any threaded engagement, especially anything that is in a location of high heat. I use it on ALL spark plugs even the ones they say doesn't need it, I'm not taking any chances on stripping threads in a head or other high dollar component. I suggest getting the highest temperature rated antisepsis compound you can get your hands on. It doesn't take a lot just a light coating and avoid getting any around the tip. If you do blast it off with "Brake Clean**" cleaner.
From NGK spark plug manufacture: "Torque recommendations are for spark plugs with new gaskets. If using anti-seize compound, use sparingly and reduce torque by 30%.
NGK has created their recommendations based on the general consensus of most engine manufactures. In the case of a discrepancy between the plug manufacturer and engine manufacturers recommendations, always default to the engine manufacturer."
* www.autozone.com/miscellaneous-cleaners-and-degreasers/lube/permatex-8-oz-226-8-g-anti-seize-lubricant/178722_0_0
** www.autozone.com/brake-and-power-steering-fluid-additives/brake-cleaner/autozone-non-chlorinated-brake-cleaner/8130_0_0
great info- thanks...
Great typer
thank you!
Thank You Jim!
It doesn't matter what kind of plug you put in your vehicle. You always want to use a little bit of anti-seize on your plugs and die-electric grease on your ignition coil boots. That way you won't have a problem replacing them later on.
42 years old, still haven't seen anyone torque a spark plug
That's cause people who say that shit don't work on cars
With aluminum heads I use a small torque wrench. That would be a huge mistake if I did it wrong.
I'm 73 and started wrenching when I was 13. I've seldom torqued a spark plug, and never had one blow out yet. I also use anti-seize. I'm not installing plugs without it. The one torque exception to my no torque method is that I DO torque them in aluminum heads.
After reading all the comments I think the guys sells helix coils for a living.
Great little snippet of info that makes sense. I always put a tiny bit on my lawn mowers' plugs, but that probably wouldn't translate very well to a racing engine that operates on extremely tight tolerances and high compression ratios! EDIT BELOW:
Guys, this debate is kind of dumb. If you're going to religiously maintain a thoroughbred race engine that is garaged every day that has chrome-plated plug threads, don't use anti-seize. If you're talking about most real-world applications where the owner neglects the maintenance of their beater everyday driver, then by all means coat those plug threads up. If I was maintaining a vehicle that I knew wouldn't be garaged or well cared for by a professional mechanic, I would definitely put the cheap insurance on. Aluminum heads especially.
For engineers in a lab setting with clean and new stuff to work on, don't use anti-seize. For everyone else in the real world, use what works to prevent broken and seized plugs and other fasteners.
I've never had to use anti-seize on a spark plug in 20 plus years of working on vehicles. Especially modern cars. If you have a modern vehicle (within the last 20 years) then you most likely have plated platinum plugs which have to replaced every 100k (sometimes sooner). Additionally, those plugs are in aluminum heads. If you run the car for a bit, the aluminum will expand wider than the plug threads making it easier to get the plug out. If you keep the plug to the factory torque spec, you won't have issues getting them out. It's only when people over torque them and then "feel" they need to put anti-seize on them to get them out at a latter date. Of course when you over torque them you are stretching the threads too.
Honda's service manuals specify NGK spark plugs and use of antiseize. Follow it, and you'll be fine. They provide a torque spec to match. For the very same plugs NGK will recommend no anti-seize and provide an angular tightening spec. NGK's angle spec will be fine regardless of anti-seize application or not. The only time antiseize is a problem, AFAIK, is when a torque spec is for dry threads and anti-seize (or any lube) is used with that thread.
I use a tiny amount of anti seize on all my plugs regardless and never ad any problems,ever. I have used it on hundreds of customers cars with no issue either. It's more important to use a correctly set and calibrated torque wrench than anything else. All the helicoil repairs I do are for people who thought they did not need to use a torque wrench! Because a spark plug has a relatively fine thread it is super easy to over tighten them. I could count on one hand the problems I have come across because of under-tightened plugs compared to overtightened! As a check I now measure the break away torque on the plugs if a vehicle comes in that was serviced by somebody else. I have seen some stupidly tight plugs. Nothing will wreck the thread in an alloy head faster.
I have a 2002 altima and the spec is 250 lb-in. That didn't seem too bad, however when I removed them, it is a very strong "stick" to them (I put no anti-seize).
I didn't measure the break down torque but it felt way higher than 250 lb-in (20 lb-ft)
Don't use anti-seize on plated threads = BS
They will come out in 100K = BS
This video = BS
yap you'll have to torch it to get it out
He's talking about finicky thoroughbred engines here, not everyday drivers or the tractors that I work on. YMMV.
What was that photo of? Way too much anti on that plug. Then don't torque the hell out of it. I guess these guys never had a plug or bolt that didn't want to come out.
Yes that was ridiculous. If my 2 year old applied anti-seize, this would be how he'd do it.
I just took out 4 spark plugs from a 04 Jeep TJ, no anti seize was used by the previous owner, I didn't think two plugs were coming back out without breaking. Felt like the were in at least 40-50 pd feet, used a small smear of copper A-S around the middle threads on the new NGK plugs. I don't want to chance it again in 60k miles. verified 19 pound-feet of torque using a torque wrench after bottoming out the plugs. (Spec range on the box was 19-25 ft lbs. So used the lower setting. Cheers.
I have a 2002 Chevy express van 5.7 liter. When I changed my plugs which by the way should always be AC Delco. I put too much anti seize on the threads. I didn't realize it was too much until I put everything back together. It ran fine at first but after a few weeks it would jolt every once in a while. But only under load or going uphill. I thought it was my transmission at first. It gradually got worse so I CZcams what could be causing it. It said ignition coil so I got one and it fixed it so I thought. It slowly started doing it again. So I said it's been long enough since I replaced the plugs last . I recalled using too much anti seize. Maybe that's the problem so I got new plugs I also got a spark plugs chaser and chased the block. Turns out the anti seize caused a barrier between the plug and block. Not allowing the plug to ground properly. Causing a misfire. After chasing the sparkplug hole and installing new plugs I haven't had one misfire. So yes it is possible to use too much anti seize.
🟥🟥🟥 I usually torque shit a quarter (1/4) turn before it breaks. I don't know how much actual field time the big dude has, but at 74 Y O, I've seen enough to use antiseize, in varying amounts on most all plugs...ESPECIALLY ALUMINUM.
Who tightens a spark plug to 65 ft-lbs.?
Only some idiot who knows F-all about engines!
For years, the car makers recommended using anti seize on spark plugs in aluminum heads, while the spark plug makers were against using anti seize, because they claimed it affected the spark plugs' heat ranges. I have seen some AC Delco spark plugs come with anti seize on them in the box since then though.
False, Ive had to use nickle antiseize on both aluminum and non aluminium metals. This goes for Toyota, Ford, and Chevrolet. When pulling ngk plugs that didn't have any antiseize on it, it sounds like plug was about to break in half..with a dab of antiseize, they come off easier and have never had problems with any engine performance...Iridium or platinum alike.
newer plugs dont need anti seize especially ngk, but if you plan to not replace them for over 100k then a smear wont hurt.
I don't know anyone who uses NGK plugs. Then again I don't build racing engines or rice rockets.
@@lashlarue7924 They were original equipment on my Honda ST1300 so that is what I replaced them with.
Use the Anti-seize that has copper in the anti seize.It will make a good ground . Between the spark plug threads and the Engine
I was reading somewhere that copper anti-seize will corrode aluminum heads.
@@kristupasantanavicius9093 This is a point that is worth further investigation. Galvanic corrosion mayhaps. To me, it seems that aluminum anti-seize would be the logical choice for an aluminium head.
@@lashlarue7924 Supposedly new plugs come with a layer of anti seize already applied.
@@lashlarue7924 I think any vehicle owner should be able to do basic repair, such as changing plugs (on most vehicles). If you get a decent vehicle and don't neglect it, there shouldn't be a problem with corroded plugs.
I use never seize and run them in and out a few times until they are smooth, makes them easier to get out the next time
65ft lbs is an exaggerated example. My Acura manual says 13ft lbs. He's not wrong that using the grease will net you a higher torque spec, but it's like 15% higher. A little bit goes a long way and put it on the threads closer to the washer, away from electrode
Anti-seize does not result in a higher torque spec, but it does reduce friction, which causes a "lubricated" fastener to advance into the threads farther and, accordingly, stretch more than a "dry" fastener would when the same amount of torque (say 13 lb-ft) is applied to both.
I use copper plug anti-seize compound every time. I also have cleaned cylinder spark threads. Mechanics in car shops do not use a torque wrench on plugs. They over tight them. So I do all by myself. I use DENSO plugs.
What fucking spark plug is tightened down to 67ft lbs?!
Guess that was just for exaple, but doubt any car has it at 65lbft
For my car its 30Nm
Lol! I don't doubt it, I know no modern engines have a spec of 67 lbs for the plugs.
One that is installed by a muscle bond idiot.
Shiny plated threads with a washer on the end then DON"T use anti- sieze grease. Some spark plugs still come in black steel so using a small amount on the opposite end of the thread is
OK. It is where the engine meets the spark plug and there is no washer!
A simple tiny drop of clean oil on the thread would do wonders.
Or a very light film of dielectric grease would do it.
I used some on my scion xb with ngk plugs. Old plugs were original and came out hard. Lucky didn’t break on the way out. Idk, but guy at parts store recommended to do it 🤷🏻♂️
It is no longer a question whether to use anti seeze or not any life long mechanic can enlighten you about that, not to much,don't slober it all over etc. I am here to say what type anti seeze to uce. As a 50 year mechanic that's been active in VW and Porsche I always use copper base anti seeze as I found aluminum type can actually work like a flux. Dissimilar alloys work best to keep things separate.
Are you sure this guy is a professional? When would you ever torque a spark plug 65 ft pound?
After reading all of this I don’t know what the hell to do.
Haha same here! I think I'm going to put antisieze on my plugs.
ledzeppelin1212
I ended up putting a small amount on. Running good right now.....
@@vanhelsing8776 I think that's the right call. I've read a lot of expert testimonies who say that putting a tiny amount on is usually a good idea.
Just don't put too much on. It's just a smear, I mean a smear. Not a a dollop.
One car I have had for 15 years, and spark plugs have been in, and out that many times. I have never had an issue, and it has alloy heads.
Clean the head threads before installing the plug would be a basic, and then apply a wee bit to the threads using a small paint brush. Keep it away from the spark end by a couple threads. Also, clean out the plug well with degreaser and a vaccum before removing the plug. It's not just anti-sieze or no anti seize. It's many things including using a T- wrench. Being in a hurry is a killer. I'd never let a pro do it. Never let anybody touch your vehicular! They don't care as much as you do.
This is what happens when marketing people try to pass themselves of as technicians or engineers. Mostly BS
85 foot pounds? I'm pretty sure you meant inch pounds, cowboy.
Are these lug nuts? lol
Torque to 65 foot pounds...got it. Torquing spark plugs is the part that makes me afraid of them. Then NGK's box shows what looks to me like identical plugs and one gets 1/8th turn and the other gets half a turn. I ended up reading about NGK's advice on antiseize after ai had installed the first one. Oops.
@@alanhassall yea, follow what the manufacturer says or you risk snapping them off and then good luck removing what's left inside.
Putting anti seize will not make 65 ft lbs equal 85 ft lbs. That is one of the dumbest things I have ever heard. (And if this guy thinks any spark plug goes in with 65 ft lbs, he has never changed spark plugs). The torque wrench measures the force you are putting on the spark plug. Now MAYBE with anti seize the plug could go in and engage threads further into the head (using the same amount of force compared to not using anti seize) , but I doubt it would make much difference if the torque wrench is being used correctly. I wonder if this guy thinks putting dielectric grease on a light bulb socket makes 12 volts equal 28 volts. What a maroon, as Bugs would say.
Hahahaha thank you!. 65 pounds is 65lbs regardless of what's between the threads. Or the planet... it's still 65lbs on Earth. Baby soft mechanic from the arm-chair, In the video, I wouldn't trust everything he says... 😳
You should try to torque down a really rusted bolt and tell me with a straight face that you got the correct torque on that bolt. Using lubricant does the opposite. It decreases friction between threads and so you can screw the bolt deeper. If you measure rusted vs clean and lubbed bolt, you will see that the same amount of torque will yield different number of rotations on the bolt.
@@kristupasantanavicius9093 dude... 65lbs of torque will always be 65lbs. You are talking about a different kind science.
@@TheFatherAbraham I don't think I'm. My point is 20lb/ft torque would be 1/2 of a turn without lube and 3/5 of a turn with lube. Just think about it. A rusted bolt will take more torque to get it in the same depth as compared to a shiny bolt. A lubed bolt will go in further with the same amount of torque.
@@kristupasantanavicius9093 what would the compression/copper/tin/other washer be there for?
65 foot pounds! 😂😂😂
Clues this guy is a hack
Yeah, that's insane.
Don't smear it all over the plugs like you're making PBJ sandwich. Use only about a quantity the size of a bb smeared on first few threads. Maybe you don't need it, but as long as you don't over do it, it wont hurt anything. You actually get a more accurate torque with the lube if you are using torque wrench. 100k miles w/o anti-seize and never removed but doesn't get corrosion? Dream on. Go ahead and take the chance if you want but I will keep using it.
X-Man, you are wrong on so many accounts: If you use AS on a spark plug with the "silver" coating, AND you torque the SP to specs, then you will over stretch the SP, leading to potential failures in the future when you go to remove the SP., There is a good CZcams video on the engineering aspect of this problem. Bottom Line: these are the newer type of SPs, so please use a newer type of thinking...
The "silver coating" ? You don't know what it is? Well, it's not silver the element, it may be zinc, or a nickel alloy, makes only a minor difference. Corrosion control is a science. Corrosion can be mitigated but not stopped. The anti-corrosion coating is helpful but not a magic bullet. Provided an appropriate amount of correct anti-seize is applied, (lets say copper), the worst thing that can happen is....nothing. This is what you want, right? No oxidative activity.
Anti-seize acts a a lubricant that will actually protect the thread coating from being ground off (to a large degree), by the cast iron threads in the head. Cast iron has very large grain size. if you have the means, look at the cast iron threads under 20x magnification. You'll see how easy it is for the iron threads in the head to grind the spark plug tread coating off. Copper anti-seize also acts as an electrical bond so that the plug has the same electrical potential as the head.
Most important is it seals the threads from potential electrolytes entering the thread faying surface. Almost all spark plugs are sitting in a concave feature in the head, many down in a hole.
If you understand "capillary action", the phenomena that causes liquids to wick into a crack during dye penetrant inspection then you should also know that the anti-seize will interfere with this wicking effect. Galvanic (dissimilar metals) corrosion is electrolysis. The strategy is to interrupt the electrolysis activity by protecting plated coatings, bonding dissimilar metals together (buy a more Nobel metal like copper) and prevent electrolytic action by keeping potential electrolytes (contaminated water mainly) from the thread faying surfaces. Aluminum has slightly different issues (high propensity for thread galling) and needs correct anti-seize also.
That's the quick and dirty science. The spark plug companies are not going to foot the bill for repairing a seized spark plug. Anti-seize, applied appropriately, will not do any harm, you are NOT going to over torque the plug by using anti-seize. You could possibly under torque by not using it, particularly with the long threaded spark plugs so common today. I choose to do what I do based on the science, not habit. I've never over torqued a plug or had a seized plug in one of my vehicles. I will continue to use anti-seize to help assure that I never do. You can do as you see fit but you do a disservice telling people NOT to use anti-seize, appropriately, on spark plugs. It's cheap insurance.
Too many people are drinking NGK, Denso et al spark plug manufacturer kool aid. They ought to remember they are being sold spark plugs. I will always use anti-seize on aluminum heads. I don't want to be the knucklehead who has to helicoil his head after I pull the plug to check heat range and the ground strap. The nickel alloy coating is only good for one torque cycle anyway.
There is no need for the average car owner to think like a corporate bean counter as they would direct an engineer. Use anti-seize and save yourself a headache - or worse yet, a helicoil job.
Even that is too much, why is this myth so hard to die? Spark plug manufacturers themselves have statements on their packages, their websites say to not use anti seize but yet many mechanics throughout this world use it like it actually helps. It doesn't lol
@@fordwindsor351 for those of us who work on our own cars, yes, it helps a lot. torque setting has to be adjusted to take the lubrication into account or you risk over tightening - and that is the only reason not to use anti-sieze. if you know what you're doing it's not an issue.
Anyone who torques down a spark plug to 65ft lbs shouldn't be anywhere near a wrench.......i only use anti seize on spark plgs when doing underwater spray painting
Use CRC Elec. Spray . . . spray some in a paper towel then roll the thread end of the plug with it then install plug.
Dont worry about the electrode
Q-Tip your plug boot cap too just enough to lube it . . . dont flood anything using the spray.
Elec. aisle at Home Depot or Lowes. I use it on light bulbs around the house when the sockets get dry . . works like buttta.
AGAIN Just dont put it on anything dripping wet . . . use a towel. You re welcome. Try it at home first . . . you ll see.
A small can with last forever.
65 FOOT POUNDS, OMG. Round boy is way off.
what about the 4.6 l ford and triton 3 valve that had problems with plugs either blowing out or breaking while trying to take out, youtubers recommend using antiseize on those plugs!
The Haynes manual said to use it. NGK said don't use it. I didn't use it.
I use anti seize on every spark plug, but very very sparingly, platinum, iridium and other plugs end up left in a engine for 100,000 miles or more these days, and any plug left in a engine that long is very difficult to remove most of the time, on the other hand i put a very tiny amount on some plugs in a BMW, and the car would misfire at idle, sounds very strange, I wiped off the miniscule amount of anti seize from the threads and it ran perfectly....I still to this day don't understand how a tiny amount of anti seize on the threads caused this, but the BMW hated it,i never had this problem with the old copper based anti seize, just the newer aluminum base stuff
Perhaps the first time you thought you had the sparking part of the plug at the proper height, but really it was too far in or sitting up a little higher. After you removed the anti seize and did it the same way but was properly seated and eliminated your actual problem. But we'll never know.
Some of the new Bosch GDI systems now use special spark plugs that are index in . If you don't index them in the car can develop a engine . So you can't not user any thing on the spark plugs and they are once fit only! !!
Guy looks like hes never worked on a car in his life
I don't think he ever walked more than a mile in his life, so he must know a lot about cars...
The guy looks like he can easily do 65 lb torque
I bet that guy lives in a van DOWN BY THE RIVER!!
Love the post but the spark plug companies should come up with proper lubricant for plugs too many problems in field they also should be putting torque spec on packages of spark plugs too make convenient for us professionals some lube is needed I don’t care what you say it’s required for future maintenance steel an aluminum fuse together it doesn’t work so yes lube is needed some not a ton .
Thank you that was great info and no beating around the bush!!! Thank you
I suspected this compound was just marketing. Sounds good, but probably not needed. It sounds (especially from the experts in here) that the real culprit is overtightening. I don't think this stuff was even around 20 years ago, so why do I 'need' it now, when I don't overtighten, materials and tolerances are better and manufacturing is better? Technology without a need...
Thank you for this great info!
Very necessary video, thank you!
PLEASE tell me the vehicle and spark plugs that require 65 FOOT POUNDS OF TORQUE!
Whaaa.... I install mine finger tight and give it roughly a quarter turn. 65lbs seems like a lot of torque.
Possibly a NHRA 5000 HP dragster.
this guy is wrong, who is going to tighten a spark plug 65 ft lb!
My 5.4 triton says otherwise
"Throw off torque specs" Thats why you torque to 70% of the rated when using antiseize or oils
This is horseshit. I've changed thousands of plugs and always used anti-seize until I read that anti-seize wasnt' required with the shiny NGK plugs. When it came time to change the spark plugs on my 2007 Toyota camry at 120K miles, I had a very tough time removing the plugs. After removing the plugs, I looked at them and the threads were a flat dark color, so I assumed they were the type of plugs you need to put anti-seize on, and also assumed that they probably forgot to use anti-seize on them at the factory or else why would they be so hard to remove. To make a long story short: I bought and put in shiny NGK plugs so I didn't use any antiseize. Boy did I regret it the next time I had to change them. I had more trouble than the first time, and when I finally got them out, they looked like the ones I had removed before. The threads on these were also a dull dark color. They start out shiny but with years and 120K miles they turn dark. Since then, I went back to using antiseize on all plugs. They also way over do it in the video they show such a large amount of antiseize on 1 plug. The amount they showed on the plug in the video is what I would use on 8 to 12 plugs. You only need a litte bit so you don't get dissimilar metal corrosion or galling. Also, I would like to know what passenger vehicle has plugs with a torque spec of 65 ft-lbs. The vast majority of cars are under 15 ft-lbs. Both of my Camry's 1997 and 2007 are 13 ft-lbs. I use a torque wrench at 13 ft-lbs and never had a problem taking them of or putting them in.
The shiny coating on the plug threads is a sacrificial anode. It dissipates over time, as you have observed. Once the coating is gone, the aluminum head becomes the anode in the "galvanic cell", which is not good news for the threads in the head. Anti-seize provides at least the following benefits: (1) when correctly selected for the application, it supplies additional sacrificial anode material; (2) it seals the threads to some extent, which prevents/slows entry of "electrolyte" into the threaded connection (no electrolyte means no electrochemical reaction can take place); (3) it minimizes galling of the threads; and (4) for a given torque spec, it promotes a more consistent/repeatable preload (stretch) of a fastener. Of course, it is common knowledge that torque specifications for "lubricated" and "dry" fasteners are different.
@@Zerk_Ziegler Living in Chicago, I know #2 very well. The mix of salt, water, and snow in the winter takes a big toll on metal parts. If you don't use anti-seize on fasteners that you don't remove often, you will struggle when removing them. Sometimes you need to use penetrating oil, other times you need to drill or cut them off, and other times you need to heat them. If you work on vehicles in the rust belt, you're thankful when the mechanic before you used anti-seize.
This really helps ... Much appreciated!
video sucks.
Helpful.
Thanks.
Okayyyyy 65 ft lbs on a plug ? Ya ok 🤣
65 ft lbs? Sounds like a lot of torque for ANY spark plug.
Changes the heat range too.
What about the oxygen sensor? Tnx in advance
Just no. Spray with a cleaner, clean with toothbrush if there is residue. Let dry. Reinstall
I've been using anti-seize for the past 50 years. Advice from a brake and front end man and a counterman? I don't think so. The difference between an engineer and a REAL mechanic is that WE fix your mistakes. Try removing steel plugs out of an aluminum head a few times and you'll quickly figure out that anti-seize is your best friend.
Much Appreciated
I used anti seize on mine..now truck seems very rough...how can i clean it off without damaging them??? I have an 04 tahoe 5.3 used Bosch iridium
Brake cleaner.... And shop air to dry it out at a distance
Buy yourself NGK laser iridium. 15 a piece but you get what you pay for mate
Sorry, but the anti- seize is not causing you engine problems.
It wasn't the anti seize, it was a cracked spark plug...thanks everyone 💯
@@MrRdrgz63 anti-seize cracked your plug ?
getting ready to change out plugs that have been in for 6 1/2 years, if the originals don't have any anti-seize then the ones I put in won't get any (using OEM plugs)
How did it go?
THANK YOU!!! finally, question answered. so glad I found your vid.
Good then deutsch bag make a plug that will come out after 100k.
You are wrong regarding the black plugs, they too have a baked coating on them, no anti seize should be used on spark plugs period!
I no longer have any faith in experts, the real knowledge is with the guy who has changed a few thousand.
Opps... Didn't know that.
Meh I’ll still put anti seize on them. Good insurance policy that only takes a few extra seconds and honestly who even torques their spark plugs to spec? 😂 o
Its clear to me now that no need to use.
shutup. great stuff. obviously you don't work on cars.
When your country's mechanics never torque to spec 🤣🤣🤣
Duh! Any professional mechanic knows this. Also, knows why you should only use the copper anti seize.
Why? Nickle based silver anti-,sieze is just as good. Actually rated for a higher temp.
@@PanamaSticks I use Nickel ones for 15 years with zero problems.
In addition, copper reacts to aluminum engine s
spark-plug manufacturers say don't use anti-seize period
use WD40
You don't need anti seize because if you ever do touch a spark plug your Popeyes greasy finger will do the job
You're the reason I love reading the comments. That was so evil. LOL
@@knottreel 😂😂
Fucking freezing every 10 seconds
LOL....What a nerd! Honda motorcycle company recommends using anti sieze on NGK plugs. Permatex anti sieze recommends torquing to 75% of the published torque value..