Good advice. Have always used it. A little dab will do you.... like Brylcream. The stuff will get on anything and everything if not careful. Can order the stuf by telephone and still get it on you!
I've been using the exact anti-seize that you are using. For over 30 years I have always put anti-seize on my spark plugs. It didn't matter if it was my car my motorcycle boat all my lawn equipment it gets something I have done. I have never had a single issue. I even had a routine down that if I'm not working on changing the spark plugs at that moment I will check the gaps on all the plugs and put a small amount of anti-seize on every spark plug. Even though spark plugs are supposed to be gapped from the factory I have always double checked and I can say very very seldom have I ever found an issue. Even when I have it wasn't horribly off. Friends of mine back in the 80s for dealer mechanics and at their dealership Ford recommended all spark plugs should be checked to make sure that the plug wasn't accidentally dropped in shipping for at the dealership and that it only would take a few minutes to check all the spark plugs.
I totally agree with u. I'm almost 70 & have used antiseize for 30yrs. Now we cant use on plugs, cant use on lug nuts. Like u SAY, in moderation. I tighten by hand/torque by hand. Now of ur using an impact wrench, then yes, could be a prob. Thank u for ur video! Already sub'd gave u a 👍's up!
Sometimes, if it’s a short shag plug, I may not but if it’s a long shank plug, I definitely will. I don’t go crazy. I just put a little dab move around, especially when you have steel plug threads on aluminum thread, cylinder head absolutely agree in certain circumstances.
Some say use 30% less torque with anti sieze . I think it was on the NGK site i saw once that the coating on new plugs does the same as anti sieze , but after heat cycles and you remove the plug some of the coating stays in the head to protect threads . So sounds, when a plug is removed it lost a lot of it`s coating . I use anti sieze on my spark plug threads . I do hear some say it interferes with grounding the plug , And i may be wrong but think anti sieze is a good conductor .
As well, a spark plug is not necessarily a moving component. It needs to be put in snagged up and left alone. It doesn’t move only when you take it out and put it in you can over talk anything are usually get the plugs down by hand, and then give them an eighth of a turn that’s it.
Hear is a trick but it works better for cars put it on the other end so the spark plug boots will come off or you could use dielectric grease cuz those spark plug boots kind of melt to the plugs and the metal just kind of welds it to the spark plug if it's been on there a long time and this really works on good on cars which I think you could still use it on small engines but it's a lot easier to get the spark plug wires off of a small engine than a car but you also got to consider you might be causing a misfire or something like that but I have tried it and I'm not had any problems with that
Yep. But I am the guy that fills a piece of heat shrink up with grease and zip ties it over brake bleeders. So...my agreeing may not be worth much. lol
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 Aluminum is gummy as compared to copper. It starts gummy and stays gummy. Juat look at your video and look how thick it is. 50 years as an aircraft mechanic and we only used aluminum ( sometimes ) on stainless B nut fittings on bleedair lines. All other requirements use copper. Grew up with copper on our farm and my father, a diesel locomotive mech, had to use copper also. Maybe just personal preference, but I have seen alot of issues when aluminum was used.
@@ronfry3324 Make a video on aluminum versus copper we would all love to see the main differences post a link to your video here when you are done making it
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 actually I dont need to. Thdre is a CZcams channel, Project Farm , video, does antisieze really work, who has already done that. He is very profesional and not sponsored by anyone, so hes very unbiased. Locktite C5a copper did out perform the Permatex aluminum. Not by alot but it did do better. Now my real world experience in aviation and around home the aluminum caused more problems. I do not believe it handles high heat as well and in some cases actually bonded pieces together. Ironically aluminum B nuts. But take alook at his channel and his test. Again, much of this I will admit is personnal experience and preference. If you like the aluminum use it. As an end, I think the copper cleans up from removed parts much easier than the aluminum. Have a good day
PERMATEX ALUMINUM ANTI SIEZE
amzn.to/3fJdSMk
SMALLER BOTTLE
amzn.to/3Ajlhvx
Squeeze tubes
amzn.to/3GQMqIw
Good advice. Have always used it. A little dab will do you.... like Brylcream. The stuff will get on anything and everything if not careful. Can order the stuf by telephone and still get it on you!
Good stuff! In addition, if your bottle of anti seize is getting hard, add a little motor oil and mix it up!
I've been using the exact anti-seize that you are using. For over 30 years I have always put anti-seize on my spark plugs. It didn't matter if it was my car my motorcycle boat all my lawn equipment it gets something I have done. I have never had a single issue. I even had a routine down that if I'm not working on changing the spark plugs at that moment I will check the gaps on all the plugs and put a small amount of anti-seize on every spark plug. Even though spark plugs are supposed to be gapped from the factory I have always double checked and I can say very very seldom have I ever found an issue. Even when I have it wasn't horribly off.
Friends of mine back in the 80s for dealer mechanics and at their dealership Ford recommended all spark plugs should be checked to make sure that the plug wasn't accidentally dropped in shipping for at the dealership and that it only would take a few minutes to check all the spark plugs.
I use it on all my plugs and I always reduce the torque by 25%. It's what most manufacturers recommended when I enquired. As always be well brother!
Fully agreed on all the video. Dont forget the di-electric grease on the spark plug boot side. It help more than you know!
I’m pretty sure I mentioned it in the video
I totally agree with u. I'm almost 70 & have used antiseize for 30yrs. Now we cant use on plugs, cant use on lug nuts. Like u SAY, in moderation. I tighten by hand/torque by hand. Now of ur using an impact wrench, then yes, could be a prob. Thank u for ur video! Already sub'd gave u a 👍's up!
Thanks for tip Jeremy. You are always helping us out and giving us great tips!!
Good info. I particularly liked that he mentioned the 100 inch lbs, the 1/16 to 1/8 inch on tapered plugs and using electrical grease on the boot tip.
If the mower medic one says it’s OK to use it on spark plugs that’s good enough for me great video
That's the exact one we use. Problem is, I can just look at it and it jumps out of the container and next thing I know I'm cover with silver. 🤣
Sometimes, if it’s a short shag plug, I may not but if it’s a long shank plug, I definitely will. I don’t go crazy. I just put a little dab move around, especially when you have steel plug threads on aluminum thread, cylinder head absolutely agree in certain circumstances.
Some say use 30% less torque with anti sieze . I think it was on the NGK site i saw once that the coating on new plugs does the same as anti sieze , but after heat cycles and you remove the plug some of the coating stays in the head to protect threads . So sounds, when a plug is removed it lost a lot of it`s coating . I use anti sieze on my spark plug threads . I do hear some say it interferes with grounding the plug , And i may be wrong but think anti sieze is a good conductor .
When I change more than one plug I use a Q-tip to put a little bit on the threads so it doesn't get into places it's not supposed to.
As well, a spark plug is not necessarily a moving component. It needs to be put in snagged up and left alone. It doesn’t move only when you take it out and put it in you can over talk anything are usually get the plugs down by hand, and then give them an eighth of a turn that’s it.
It is useful if the thread part of the spark plug and where it threads into are dissimilar metals.
Jeremy what brand or type of pliers do you have for removing fuel lines. I know I saw a video years ago where you talked about them. Thanks Bob
I use it on my snowblower and leaf blowers i use for snow clearing. They get wet by virtue of what they do.
Hear is a trick but it works better for cars put it on the other end so the spark plug boots will come off or you could use dielectric grease cuz those spark plug boots kind of melt to the plugs and the metal just kind of welds it to the spark plug if it's been on there a long time and this really works on good on cars which I think you could still use it on small engines but it's a lot easier to get the spark plug wires off of a small engine than a car but you also got to consider you might be causing a misfire or something like that but I have tried it and I'm not had any problems with that
Talk him down by hand that’s all you need. I’ve never had to use a torque wrench on a spark plug but that’s me.
Yep. But I am the guy that fills a piece of heat shrink up with grease and zip ties it over brake bleeders. So...my agreeing may not be worth much. lol
I had one plug come out like pulling teeth. And the rest were good but when they went back in I put anti seize on them.
I put it on my Car Spark plug
Poor man's anti seize is milk of magnesia, personally never tried it but hear it works the same
IS it OK to use the Permatex copper colored anti seize with fasteners, screws, and spark plugs on machined aluminum hardware?
yeah I do it all the time
Great explanation!
Love your videos and advice mm1
Good info. Thank you.
What should the Torque be with Anti seize
Less maybe 80 In lbs
Great advice, just a dab will do ya... somehow I get this stuff all over me
Iuse copper based anti sieve. It is better than the silver stuff.
can you this stuff on like spark plugs that come out of lawntrators or boat moters
Absolutely
Cannt stand aluminum antisieze. Only for aluminum B nuts.
I always yse copper
Tell us why
Tell us why
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1
Aluminum is gummy as compared to copper. It starts gummy and stays gummy. Juat look at your video and look how thick it is.
50 years as an aircraft mechanic and we only used aluminum ( sometimes ) on stainless B nut fittings on bleedair lines.
All other requirements use copper.
Grew up with copper on our farm and my father, a diesel locomotive mech, had to use copper also.
Maybe just personal preference, but I have seen alot of issues when aluminum was used.
@@ronfry3324 Make a video on aluminum versus copper we would all love to see the main differences post a link to your video here when you are done making it
@@THEMOWERMEDIC1 actually I dont need to.
Thdre is a CZcams channel, Project Farm , video, does antisieze really work, who has already done that.
He is very profesional and not sponsored by anyone, so hes very unbiased.
Locktite C5a copper did out perform the Permatex aluminum. Not by alot but it did do better.
Now my real world experience in aviation and around home the aluminum caused more problems.
I do not believe it handles high heat as well and in some cases actually bonded pieces together. Ironically aluminum B nuts.
But take alook at his channel and his test.
Again, much of this I will admit is personnal experience and preference.
If you like the aluminum use it.
As an end, I think the copper cleans up from removed parts much easier than the aluminum.
Have a good day
Do use it on your service Snakl Engine s
Unneedlesly lol
Sort of like unloosen. Wait, what?😂
No.
I totally disagree with this one! No an the antisieze
Why? Ive used antisieze ( copper ) on aircraft sparkplugs and ignitors for 50 years.