Sandpaper Sharpening Jig - Sharpening Tools On a Budget
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- čas přidán 29. 07. 2021
- This is one of the least expensive and most effective sharpening jigs I've ever designed -- I use it for all my plane irons and most of my chisels. Unless the tool has been massively abused, you can usually sharpen it in under 10 minutes. The secret is using ordinary wet-dry sandpaper on a hard, flat surface. You have a broad choice of grits and you can replace a grit when it wears out for just pennies. And if you use the trick I show you with honing compound, you can get an edge sharp enough to shave with. Really! -- although that's one of those "don't try this at home" remarks...
The plans for all of the jigs I show in this video are on pages 30, 68, and 69 of my book on "Sharpening," which you can pick up from our store at workshopcompanionstore.com/pr... .
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#woodworking #sharpening #jigsandfixtures #handplanes
If you like to make the jigs I show in the video, the plans are in my book on "Sharpening", pages 31 and 68. Lots of other handy jigs, tips, and info there as well. See workshopcompanion.selz.com/item/sharpening .
I was going to get the book, but did not see : ship to address, or shipping charge.
Does it ask these question? If it does, will it take my money before showing?
I want the book, but it can not ship to my billing address.
@@simpleman283 It's an "ebook" in PDF (digital) form and a download link is sent to your email. We could not possible afford to print, inventory, fulfill and ship paper books for the prices we're asking.
Tried to browse to your site on the link given, but get an error 1020, access denied. Has the link changed?
@@peterkernebone37 yeah same as me
Bro just saved me several hundred dollars and then gave me a shot of a cute dog. 10/10.
NIck is a great woodworking teacher. No BS, no patronizing, and no hocus pocus.
Thanks for the kind words. But I like to think that there's a little hocus-pocus, although most of it is added by Travis post-production.
Pure knowledge. No sponsored have to buy tools.
This shows, there is still good people on earth with a pace to comfortably live with. Thanks a lot.
Most welcome.
I read a book about wooden boat building once. The author said that the first thing he taught his carpenter helpers was how to sharpen their tools. That always stuck with me and I study the art with a passion. It really is the foundation for quality woodworking. It simply cannot be accomplished without sharp tools and tooling. You, sir, have mastered the process. Thanks for sharing that knowledge.
My grandpa used to say the only thing he missed about working without power tools was how quiet the mornings were. First thing everyday before starting everyone would be just focused on sharping all their saws, chisels and drill bits.
Great video still waiting on how to build a guillotine for $1200 or less
I’m a big fan of guillotines and trebuchets. Gives you something to do with the leftovers of oligarchs…
😆 LOL!!!
Hell my brother made one in jr. high school, he could cut a two inch branch with it. The fun part was he had to push it 2 1/2 miles on small caster wheels in order to get his credit in English class Tale of Two City’s.
Teacher had to remove a ceiling tile so he could get it into the classroom and the maintenance guy had to cut it apart at the end of the day.
The good old days back in the 1970’s 🤣🤣🤣. And NOBODY was offended !!!
There is, but it's in French with no subtitles.
I’m surprised by how well thought out and well paced these videos are. Thank you
We try. Thanks for saying so.
You just saved me a thousand dollars in my not having to buy a Tormek grinder! Thank you!
1000 bucks? Really? I had no idea they had gotten that expensive. That last time I reviewed a Tormek was for my sharpening book and they were a third of that cost. Can't see paying that much for any sharpening system. Glad to have been of help.
You are a joy to watch. Love your dog too!
That is the most useful woodworking video I've seen on CZcams!
Quite a compliment. Thanks.
@@WorkshopCompanion It's the most difficult thing for new woodworkers and this is simple, cheap and effective. A piece of tempered glass from an oven door would also work.
@@martinpook5707 It would. I actually use a marble pastry stone. Another friend I know who's a machinist uses a registration stone. You can also use a lapping plate. But those things kinda take this procedure out of the range of "cheap," so I elected to go with the cheapest flat, waterproof thing I could find at my local lumberyard. Melamine works well.
Agreed!
Nick, I think I own every book you’ve ever put out and people can’t believe the knowledge I can sometimes impart. If I like the person, I loan them the book the tip came from. Neither the Build It Better Yourself, nor the Workshop Companion books were cheap, since I bought them when they came out from Taunton, but they have proven to be outstanding investments over the past 30+ years. Keep up the great work. I only wish you were still writing books because I would buy them!
Thank you for the kind words. As for more books...well, you just can't sell what folks expect for free on the Internet.
Yeah, I guess I understand.
Another excellent Video with a great explanation on using a simple way to sharpen your cutting tools. Please keep up with the videos.
Those are most excellent jigs.
Thanks!
I am glad to hear that you have found this book to be very informative and helpful for your woodworking project czcams.com/users/postUgkxbnOKZBE4evMO5V2vroHeCjq6d_MV6wJO It sounds like you are well prepared and confident to build furniture for your house. I commend you and your friend for your enthusiasm and willingness to learn new things from this book. I hope you enjoy your woodworking journey and create some beautiful pieces.
Great info and tips. Many folks don't realize the angle needs
to be reset if you take a lot of metal off. Just the nature of it.
Really appreciate this gentleman‘s videos and tutorials; great common sense approach that you don’t need fancy hundreds or thousands of dollars worth of tools it’s all about technique and skill.
You get it.
Appreciate all of your woodworking wisdom and knowledge
Most welcome.
Brliant teacher here! Unbelievably good content always. I absolutely love your videos ans teaching style. Great video 👍
Thanks for the kind words.
Glad I found you. Entertaining but if greater importance - informative.
Thank you
Most welcome.
maaan your videos always give me the best knowledge about it
Though frightened, I appreciate the common sense sharpening jig you came up with.
Just getting ready to start my own sharpening service so I love seeing other ways folks do it more efficiently. Awesome results. I’ll be honest - once I saw your ShopSmith in the background I hit the subscribe button! Thank you.
Most welcome.
Thanks for the video!
WOW !!!!!! Thanks a lot, MASTER !!!!!!!!!
This is a mighty good video.
This was a very pleasant video to watch and I learned something! Subscribed and ordered the Sharpening guide. Thanks much
You're welcome...and welcome.
Very simple, thanks
Loving your presentation techniques. Very engaging.
Thanks.
If there was a typical Disney Channel shop teacher, he'd look just like you. Please don't take that the wrong way, shop teachers are awesome, and usually very intelligent. Just when I picture a shop teacher, it's you 😁🤘🤘
Good to know. I strive mightily to be typical...;-)
@@WorkshopCompanion lol A typical shop teacher?? Because like I said, they're usually awesome people 😁
Damn! Thank you sir, I think you’ve saved me a couple hundred bucks. 👍
You're most welcome.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
You're m,ost welcome.
This is incredible! Thank you so much for sharing!
Most welcome.
Great information
This is the best sharpening video I’ve seen, and the simplest
In engineering there is the concept of the "elegant solution" -- an effective, straightforward design that solves the problem with a simplicity that is in itself amazing for being so easy to execute. I feel that today's vast selection of wet/dry sandpapers is the elegant solution for most sharpening needs.
Thank you and your team for this. I like the music, too.
Most welcome.
Just discovered this channel. Thanks for all the knowledge!!
Most welcome.
Love your videos ❤️
Awesome you sure have a awesome way of teaching. You got my vote!!
Thanks...and what was I running for? ;-)
I just did my first half lap joints last night, and had to finish them up with DULL DULL DULL harbor freight chisels that my dad had purchased years and years ago. Thank you for this video!! I have everything I need but the shower door rollers - this is amazing!
Thanks for saying.
Just came across your channel Sir and are finding your vids very well made and informative. I’ve subscribed and are binge watching. 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Many thanks, and welcome!
This was a very excellent methodology to sharpening. Very inexpensive and it works well it works very well! The only negative I see is the use of water on sandpaper one hold it down to two on top of it is totally unnecessary. You can tape the paper down you can glue the paper gown or you can leave it free taking a board including a piece of sandpaper to it then just lay in the other sandpaper on top of it it will stay in place. No Mess no water no double boards no paper stacking. Clean the paper I use a magnet the race metal flakes off the paper makes it look brand new. You can use paper over and over and over until it becomes so dull when you know it's time to discard it. Also the paper method Works excellent I just tape it down with masking tape on each side then when it's all done put a new sheet down. Stay away from the water suggestion not necessary at all!
Solid value in this video, earned a sub and a comment for the CZcams algorithm!
Nick you are Amazing! Every video I learn so much. Going to check out one of your books too. Cheers!
Cheers back. And thanks.
Great video! Very informative!
Thanks.
After watching a few videos on sharpening, I found this one ... and it makes it look easy and attainable!!! Not some secret voodoo that only "years of experience" pros can attain.
Subbed!!! Thanks for sharing 🇨🇦
Thanks, that was real keen
;-)
Really good video sir 👍🏻
I love your videos, as an old timer myself incan see the logic in your methods and attitude. It all comes from being "time served". I have a shop full of gadgets and jigs I've devised over the years, just, I imagine, like your good self.
True that. But in my case, I was encourage by my publishers to come up with what you call "gadgets." Back in the 80s and 90s, jigs and fixtures were a heavy-duty selling point for woodworking books and articles.
@@WorkshopCompanion I understand but it seems to me that having to solve problems or improve workflow in the shop back in the day that meant building a jig or fixture to ease your pain, or if it was really good, pain could turn to pleasure😁😁😁 These days people seem to think that they have to buy the solution rather than craft it themselves. This doesn't inspire the creativity that was so necessary when working in the shop back 8n my day. It also makes woodworking, to the uneducated eye, look eye wateringly expensive. By way of example take the company that makes all the red tools that every self respecting CZcamsr has hanging prominently behind them in every shot. They make a set of clamping squares, clamps not included that retail at £85 on my side of the pond🤐🤐🤐. You show your simple plywood clamping squares that achieve the same result made from scrap plywood. First thing I made as an apprentice when I was training was a t square, still using today 51years later. Thats why i so enjoy watching you video simple practical advice, backed up by time served knowledge and a great sense of humour.
By the way thank you for taking the time to reply.
Great, thank you for sharing !
You're most welcome.
My dad would have loved you! Great video! Thank you
Most welcome.
One thing that I'd like to suggest from my experience with sharpening knives is to use a sharpie (either black or blue) to mark the edge. It helps show if you're getting the full edge or if you're a little off. It also helps in finding the angle of the blade or cutting edge. The only downside is that the sharpie gets a cut in it and leaves a line in the center if you try to write with it, but then it just becomes a dedicated sharping tool.
Great tip.
Amazing
Thanks. Exellent video and excellent performance.
Most welcome.
Wow, that plane iron left that end grain incredibly smooth. I have a plane and three chisels that I should sharpen with this technique. Come to think of it, I have a collection of antique wooden planes that I inherited from my great grandfather. I sometimes wonder if I could rehabilitate them.
Of course you can. Properly tuned, wooden planes are a joy to use. I have a whole set that I use for carving propellers.
Excellent presentation and information!!! New sub 👍
Welcome!
Thanks
Good stuff, what is your experience with different sharpening angles for different tasks?
Wow, that was great. I kinda sniffed at this on my own a while back. I kept a 1” slab of glass from an old copy machine that was being thrown away. It’s mirrored, so it had to be perfectly flat and I did the same process, albeit not nearly as thoroughly as you’ve done here and it worked pretty good. Did it free hand however as I didn’t have the awesome jig you made…. Thank you for the video and the confirmation that I was getting close to the process needed to sharpen.
Most welcome.
Just subscribed,I like your ways I've found a craftsman on CZcams who has sense 🤓, good man,....... from Liverpool Britain.
Welcome -- and thank you for those kind words.
When using a similar jig, before I go to the next finner grit, I put a thin piece of plastic sheet under the rollers to slightly raise the back of the tool. Then leave that thickness down for the passes at the next grit. Another piece is added for each change. This results in a very slightly rounded edge that seems to stay sharp longer.
Sounds like you're doing two things; adding a micro bevel with each change and saving the rollers from wear at the same time.
Any chance of making an audio book of your book. Your fun to listen to
my father would of loved these videos
I subscribed to this channel... saved me $15 dollars!
Glad to help...and welcome!
Why are you not on mainstream TV? Brilliant stuff
Thanks.
Awwww, at 2:00 i see you have the same type of machinists toolbox that I got from my Grandpa. What a beautiful thing that is.
It's an ancient Kennedy tool chest, one of two that I own. We use it to organize and store all our layout, measuring, and marking tools.
Helpful Tip:
Take a magic marker/sharpie and
mark the whole cutting edge.
Drag it across the sandpaper.
This will indicate if your angle
is steep or shallow.
If the mark disappears completely,
your angle is perfect.
👍🏻 thanks
Huh never thought about paper and compound. Paper compound and a sponge can make a really neat strop
DO you think putting water on the sand paper extends the life of the paper? I usually run my dry, but only bc I don't want to get a mess everywhere. But I might try it out wet next time. I really like those jigs you made too.
Haha it's amazing how different minds think alike. I made a Chisel sharpening jig 98% identical about 30yrs ago. I used bearings from a Skateboard, and I had never seen any jig for that sort of thing prior, I'm not saying they didn't exist, I just hadn't seen one at the time. I still have it somewhere.
Thanks Nick, that's some really useful stuff. Will help me get back into woodworking after a long hiatus. Over the years I seldom used my Shopsmith as a lathe in part because I couldn't reliably sharpen the chisels. Now I know how without spending a ton of money on sharpening tools. I'm also too tall for the thing so that's my next challenge. Any ideas?
Almost everyone is too tall for the Shopsmith when it comes to lathe work. If I have to spend more than an hour turning, I put the machine up on 6" blocks. You may want to go higher than that. You should be able to stand with your back straight with the chisel on the tool rest and not have to bend over to see your work.
@@WorkshopCompanion Thanks. I'm somehow relieved to know that I'm not the only Shopsmith owner with height issues. Love the machine otherwise.
Sensei. Enough said. 🙏🧘🤺
I have found it helpful to mark the plane blade with fine-tip magic marker to show me how deep it is/was in the sharpening jig. In a plane, the marker line seems to last until the next sharpening, so I know right where to put it. Chisels get too much handling for that, though I suppose I could lightly score a line.
Good tip.
So... I just got back from Harbor Freight, bought an electric hand planer (cheap) and a few other gewgaws. One of those gewgaws was a 6 piece set of chisels ranging (in increments of 1/4") from 1/4" to 1-1/2". Cost was under $12.00. Sadly, those cheapie tools are better than the two older chisels I've had for over a decade (1/2" and 3/4"), that I spent more money on 10-12 years ago! Guess I'll keep those for brute-force tear-outs in the future, use my new ones for touching up. I've watched this video three or four times over the past year or so, I think I can make that jig without plans-- it's really not complex. But, hardwood? Scraps? Not friggin' likely!
very nice ideas; sound theory, practice and explanation. i'm surprised our host hasn't rigged something to keep his glasses from slipping down, though! (i jest)
Keen video.
XD
@workshopcompanion thanks for the lesson...I inherited several slim chisels and gouges. Including v shaped and very curved...I'm talking thin as a #2hb pencil! I've been struggling to sharpen these (I've recently discovered I've started out way too low in grits. Unfortunately I'm the first to do anything with them in 40+ years...they were not kept in great condition to begin with.
I've used my rotary tool with various bits after I cleaned them with "metal rescue " which is similar to "evapo rust "...both great products btw...
What angle should these be sharpened please?
Depends on what the chisels are used for and how they are used. Hardwoods require greater tool angles, softwoods lesser. Mallet-driven chisels require greater tool angles; hand-driven lesser. The tool angle range that you are looking at is 35 degrees for the greatest angle (mallet-driven mortising chisel in hardwoods) to 22 degrees for the least angle (hand-driven carving chisel in softwoods).
@@WorkshopCompanion thanks
I have something similar I made but uses a diamond stone and swaps out to a honing stone.
Use this method all the time, on a thick piece of mirror glass which is always dead flat.
Thanks! well done , is funny how many very $$$ knife sharpening tools and ideas I have seen in a life time, BUT rarely do people hear the basic thought of an edge is a series of scratches like you said:) (thx DAD) :) I saved scrap but new emory paper from commercial belt sanders in a glass factory for yrs so that 20$ is free in my case:),Like the idea of holding the wet paper also :) my knife sharpening jig(one of them) in my kitchen is a plastic wedge with brass wing nuts like yours ,made from the plastic or nylon ? from cutting boards! I have lots of $ stones but still go to a block that is scrap 2by 4 with emory cloth stapled to it :) ,keep it wet in the sink! have made those cut at an angle to sharpen garden tools to that same edge you have on that plane blade:)
Thx also forgot what to call the "green" rouge ? and have never just rubbed it on paper like you did ? much easier:) I have suggested to many others on here to use polishing compounds, "rouge" to make quick work on gun steel , used it for yrs polishing glass and brass in jobs I had! Love your shop ,reminding me I truly need to get my shop back in order .Peace Rick
Thanks for sharing.
For my sharpening jig I use a sheet of thick glass,it was a part of an old glass coffee table to its thick (about 10mm) and its about 150mm×300mm so it's just right to spray glue a few sheets of different grits too, I used glass so I can use a razor blade to scrap the old paper off easily, I have a little tunnel just under my workbench top to keep it tucked away, safe and easily accessible.
Glass is a good sharpening surface. I've also used marble pastry boards, registration stones, table saw worksurfaces, and cast-iron planer beds. Anything dead-flat and hard.
Angle and grid are both defenitly important get grit# as fine as you can get
Your sharpening jig looks like exactly what I've been looking for. Do you sell the sharpening jig already made? I do mostly carving and I don't think I have the tools needed to make one. Thank you.
No, we don't. Perhaps a woodworking friend might help you out. Or you could take a look at the Japanese Kakuri sharpening jig, which works along the same principle.
Такой классный дядька. Подача великолепна. Подписка
A handy second jig if you can even call it that, is two blocks of hard wood face screwed and glued together, so that one is offset back from the other the exact distance the plane or chisel protrudes from the sharpening jig. You can use it to reset the blade to exactly the same protrusion/angle each time.
Great tip. Thanks for sharing.
Just bought the book. Do you just glue the supports on or screw them . Also I can not work out the thickness of the jig.
All parts are 1/4" (6 mm) thick hardwood, glued together.
I Found your channel a few days ago and i gotta say its awesome. Your content and funloveing feel really sets a tone and makes projects like a sharpening jig a whole lot funner.
Ill be around, Down here in the comments. Keep up the Great work.
Like Comment and Subscribe people!
Have you ever tried using a leather strop with the compounds vs using paper?
I use leather both for touching up the edge and as a last step when machine sharpening. However, because leather can be compressed, allowing the point to dig in when you push the tool in the direction of the sharpened edge, I don't use leather when hand sharpening. Paper loads nicely with rouge or Tripoli and allows me to polish with a back-and-forth motion.
@@WorkshopCompanion Excellent point. Thanks for the reply!
Not at hard wood, but soft wood, because soft wood likes to "retreat" because it is soft... the test on hard wood is too easy.
It is the same, e.g. in the knife sharpness test...the test on thick stiffer paper is too easy...the kitchen paper test is the ultimate test.
However, it is true that this may be a bit too high a level for the average home user.
Otherwise, a nice presentation, I like it a lot.😃👍
I only pull away from the edge. Does sharpening in both directions make any difference? For my curved ones, I have large bolts that I’ve drilled out the center and cut in half. The I have a little boat to place my sandpaper in to sharpen all sides at once. I also use the white jewelers rough. What’s the difference for the white?
White polishing compound is a little (very little) coarser than red.
hello sir, do you sell the sharpening jig on etsy already built?
No, sorry.
Find the sharpening jigs used in the video in this book: workshopcompanion.selz.com/item/sharpening
Pick up one of Nick's books FREE just for visiting: workshopcompanion.selz.com/categories/books
And if you want clear, concise information on any woodworking topic, visit the Workshop Companion web site: workshopcompanion.com
Chad, I looked at these books when I bought the rolling pin plan back when that video was released. I couldn't decide which to buy and therefore landed on needing the whole set. Ironically, I didn't buy it, rather put it on my Christmas wish list since it's such an affordable price and easily purchased by others. My family likes to buy me woodworking gifts, but become nervous about buying tools afraid they will get "the wrong one."
@@woodshopnerdery What a coincidence, Thomas. I just bought the entire Workshop Companion series yesterday. I've skimmed through some of them already, and rest assured, there is no "wrong one". You can't go wrong with any of these books.
I have watched a lot of sharpening videos. I have always asked the same question (and have NEVER been replied to). As you progress through the grits, do you actually see an edge that is 16 times better going from 300 to 1200 grit? Is the surface that much better and is the effort that much less? If the honing compound is 8000 and you use an iron polished to that, must you scuff the surface a bit to have material adhere properly to it?
There are no simple answers to some questions. How you sharpen a tool depends on the steel, what you're cutting, and the cutting method. If you're chopping wood with an axe, a coarse grind is all you need. For fine joinery the sharper, the better. For wood carving, especially in hardwoods, only scary sharp will do.
Before we go any further, let’s define “sharpness.” It is the condition of the arris, the edge where the two cutting surfaces come together. The more keen the arris, the sharper the tool. It has nothing to do with angle - tools are sharpened at a wide range of angles. A sharp tool is one with a crisp, finely-pointed edge.
Let’s also define “cutting.” At it’s heart, cutting is a stress-failure process. The arris presses against the cellulose fibers of the wood until they separate. If the arris is keen, the energy pressing the arris forward is concentrated at that point. The wood separates cleanly and easily with minimal effort along a straight line leaving a “clean cut.” If the arris is dull, the energy is spread out over a wider area, requiring more energy to separate more fibers. They fail over a broader area and the cut appears ragged. The tool is difficult to control and wants to drift toward the summerwood or any area were the fibers are weak.
Sharpening is all about conditioning the arris, making it as keen as possible. The finer the arris, the cleaner the cut, the less energy it requires, and the more control you have. The easiest was to get a keen arris is to grind it at a consistent angle with progressively finer abrasive grits. The grits plow the metal, removing tiny chips or “swarf,” and leaving tiny furrows or a “scratch pattern.” Where the scratch patterns intersect at the arris, they form tiny serrations. Look at the arris through a microscope with enough magnification and it looks like saw teeth. The finer the grit, the finer the scratch pattern, and the smaller the serrations - and the more keen the arris. Consequently, as you work you way through progressively finer and finer grits, the tool become sharper.
But there are limits. Steel is, at a microscopic level, a crystal and this crystal has grains. The size of the grains determines just how fine you can make the scratch pattern. Basically, you can’t make the scratches any smaller than the grains. Different types of tool steel - and there are many - have different crystal structures. Consequently you can get some steels sharper than others. Sometimes it makes no sense to go up through superfine grits. At some grit, the tool will be as sharp as it’s going to get because of the steel from which it’s made.
There are also some common sense limits that are determined by the operation itself. You don’t need an axe head to be as keen as a carving chisel because you’re applying more force, removing more wood, and the “cleaness” of the cut is not even a consideration.
This is a very broad brush, just a hint at the answer you’re looking for. If you want to delve deeper, I would suggest reading my book on “Sharpening.” Its’ available in PDF format from our store, and the first two chapters cover the science and metallurgy behind sharpening.
@@WorkshopCompanion Even though I am cub's and have notifications on, this never appeared in my feed. I returned to rewatch the vid on a whim and found your answer. Thanks.
Peep the Kennedy tool box. Old school cool!
Good eyes. Found that Kennedy a few years ago rusting away on the back shelf of a junk store. It was in bad shape, but easy to restore. Have a smaller version that I have carried around to job sites for 55 years and it still works like new. They are battleships.
Clever tool design. How come you are not having them manufactured for you and sold?
Time and $. Would rather use my time to teach woodworking and my money to buy wood. Thanks for saying.
Did he mention don’t go to next grit until a burr is formed? Very important!
Son of a.. 😧👏
Does your sharpening guide include spoon and bowl cutting blades?
Because of the excessive length of most lathe tools, and because some of the scraping tools are sharpened at steep angles, I have a different setup for my lathe chisels. I hope to get around to it in a future video.
@@WorkshopCompanion, reason I'm asking about the book with the jig diagrams mentioned in your sharpening video is I have a tool roll of the long carving chisels & gouges, a tool roll of small (finger length or slightly longer) from yard sales, and a spoon carving set I got off Amazon that includes a curved hook or bent knife for spoons and bowls. I'm not sure if that roller jig you demonstrated will work on the small stuff. My hands aren't steady enough to do it freehand. I already rounded the tip on my pocket knife.
@@johnruckman2320 Should be -- and you can always adjust the size of the jig to accommodate the tools you have.
9:25 best jig for sharpening.
You put the compound on paper? Is that just a affective as leather? Most videos suggest to put compound on leather.
Leather is the traditional choice, paper is less expensive and easier to come by. Both work. If you want to dive into the details, you can only stroke in one direction on leather, backwards from the point. Paper lets you stroke in either direction. Because leather can be compressed, it will ever-so-slightly round the metal near the point, giving you a cannel grind at the very tip. Many craftsman contend this buttresses the edge and helps the tool stay sharp longer. Paper preserves the flat grind left by the sandpaper and doesn't effect the tool angle at the tip. There are even more esoteric and much less important details in my book, "Sharpening." See workshopcompanionstore.com/products/sharpening
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