Fix for Low Fuel or no Fuel Pressure, Ford F150
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- čas přidán 1. 07. 2024
- Join Dave Guggisberg as he walks you through troubleshooting low or no fuel pressure in your 1994 Ford F150 equipped with the 5.8L V8 engine and dual gas tanks. Before you rush to replace the fuel pumps, it's essential to diagnose the root cause of the issue. Dave's expert guidance will help you identify and resolve the problem efficiently.
Key Points Covered:
Understanding symptoms of low or no fuel pressure
Step-by-step troubleshooting process
Tips to avoid unnecessary fuel pump replacements
Saving time and money with effective diagnostics
Don't miss out on Dave's invaluable insights and practical advice. Whether you're a seasoned mechanic or a DIY enthusiast, this video is a must-watch before tackling fuel system issues in your Ford F150. Subscribe now and stay tuned for more automotive troubleshooting tips from Dave Guggisberg!
Products used in this repair
BETOOLL 0-140PSI Fuel Injector Injection Pump Pressure Tester Gauge Kit Car Tools
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GS Power 12 AWG (American Wire Gauge) Pure Copper Primary Wire
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AUTOXEL 88 Pcs Trim Removal Tool, Fastener Remover Tool Kit
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#f150 #ford #howto #automobile #howtodoityourself - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Replacing fuel pressure regulator fixed my issue after replacing other parts I thought needed replacing. Before this video I'd just avoided driving the truck because of surging at high speeds, cutting off at stops, idling up and down. Now I drive it 30 to 60 miles a day as my primary work commute vehicle. 199243 miles and runs like a champ now. Thanks Brother!!!
Well I am here because of my 95 F-250 5.8 issues.
I really enjoy your straightforward approach, that isn’t filled with useless dialogue. You earned yourself a new subscriber, thanks for making this video!
Thanks Mr. DAVE. I like your style a calm knowledgeable mechanic and a good teacher. I will try with my recently purchase: Ford F150 XLT 1993 with 302 V8 5.0L.
Highly informative, great instruction without being too complex 👍
Clear, concise and great video work. Very helpful. Thanks for taking the time!
You just saved me 1/2 a month's income
I appreciate the pace and the verbal details.The host does not assume we know all the details and tips.
Thanks for the info. It was good to know about the lubricant on the o rings!
Very educational brother.
Love the video, I subscribed. Very helpful with my 94 f-150. I appreciate your time and effort!
good taste mike! I got the same truck :)
czcams.com/video/Fv5En6gqI-U/video.html
Learning to by pass the selector switch was the major thing l took from this. Thank You!
l learned only the rear low pressure pump is running in by pass but no gas comes out of the line before the diverter valve. Low pressure front pump not running at all. High pressure only when hooked direct to battery. The dash comes apart much easier on a 87 F150.
This was truly fantastic.
Great work keeping it simple , thanks for the info/tips 🤘🤘
You bet!
Thank you so much you make a great teacher thank you thank you I have problem with my 99 Expedition pressure regulator like you said I'm going to do a diagnostic step-by-step like you say thank you for showing this video
Thanks so much Sir your explanation was the best for me I fix it bc watching this video mine truck running really good thank you so much
Excellent video... what a nice man...
Outstanding vid!
365,000 views and 5,000 subscribers - not fair. Thanks for the content.
Thanks ! I have the exact same problem with a 96 ! You helped !
Very good. I have a 1992 Dakota but it helps.
ThAnk you so much God bless very professional
very good information, thanks for the video.
Very Helpful, an looking forward to putting truck back on the road Great informational video
GREAT VIDEO 👍
Awesome Video!!
Thanks for the info!!
excelent thanks for you time and dedication¡¡¡
I am glad to see that they move the bolt heads for the regulator to the top. Mine is on the bottom 1991 f150
I noticed that today on my 1991. The bolt heads are on the bottom. Also sort of difficult to reach. I’m going to attempt a replacement of this soon.
@@mattreyes79 where does the black and white wire on a fuel pump goes .
Darrell Geist,those little screws that go from bottom to top are a real pain,especially considering how small and hard to get to they are.When replacing the unit do yourself a favor and go from top to bottom!
Fantastic!!!!! I was check the fuse box and when closing it hit it hard and then my f150 shut down. I was worry until I found this video and problem solved
Well, heres a doozey for ya'... 1993 Ford f150 5.0/302...135,000 on the clock... Had Crank, No Start Condition with fuel pumps keep priming bout 3 weeks ago...Went to 2 name brand parts store...Rent-A-Tool program....Busted out 2 spank brand new Fuel Pressure gauge Tests kits...Still new in the plastics...Hooked up to fuel rail both times according to the directions...No fuel pressure sensed by either gauge....But, truck today runs and drives as normal...Before (3 weeks ago) sounded like a old John Deere tractor... Took it to a shop, they couldn't find the problem...Left the rip you off shop, it was spitting and sputtering and cut off a couple of times till it warmed up...Made it back to my house and I parked it till I had the chance to clean the IAC with GumOut Carb Cleaner, Re-installed same old IAC with new gasket...Also added some Techron gas addititive to both tanks...Also, when manually push down on the fuel rail Schrader valve, some fuel spurts out, but nuffin ' to jump up and down about...Truck runs and drives today as if nuffin' ever happened...Pulling hairs and straws tryna figure what to do next...Also, pulled the EEC and clean off some of the rust on the holder and the EEC...Opened it up....Capacitors looked okay...It's a REMAN, not the original, but can tell water has gotten inside of holder and EEC box...Board looks good, tho'...I'm stumped...Help...
Sounds like that eec is bad again, buddy. I had the same problem with mine. If water gets into it, it'll cause the fuel pumps to continue running and run like crao
@@chrisgraham3962 ...Was looking to replace the EEC...Two months later....Betsey LuLu running like a Champ...No issues, except for what you get running a older truck....Thanks for your help and reply, tho.....👍👍😊😊
Hey there, let me add my 2 cents, I got a1992 f-150 4.9 liter Inline 6 with 133,000 miles and I have replaced every sensor and am still having issues with it running right!!
I can start it up without any problems and it'll idle all day long almost perfectly however it has a little miss in it from when I got it. Anyways if I drive it around the block it will start to miss then stall/buck/jump, and I really noticed it whenever I'd go up a side street by my house that's a pretty good hill and I'd have to back back down and then it would sputter all the way back home (2 blocks away, lol)..... Anyways I bought a fuel pressure guage from Harbor Freight and tested it, and I couldn't believe that I wasn't getting any reading on the guage....?? Especially whenever I could start it up just fine..... so this went on for several days and I kept checking the sherader valve to make sure it was clean and nothing was hooked up wrong and I even took back the fuel pressure guage and got another one and Same thing--- NO PRESSURE???........ So i knew it was probably the fuel pump because the rear tank is the ONLY tank that works, it was like that whenever I got the truck.... Also I had just replaced the fuel filter about a month ago and I checked the pressure regulator and it it in good working order, so since its got new fuel injectors in it as well and a new distributor and new plugs and wires and new o2 sensor, I thought it's gotta be the fuel pump,......right ??......Especially when I try to go uphill and it starts with the sputtering...... I assume not enough fuel pressure. I don't know enough about the EEC, but I do know the previous owner replaced it and coil pack. So you're not alone, sir, whenever you're saying that you ain't gettin any fuel pressure...... I've seen it myself!! And yes, I was using the correct shreader adapter explicitly for the Ford F150 trucks! Any suggestions on what you all think, please let me know. God bless
@@mirandabri834 ....I gotta say...This problem got us both STOMPED....A week or so, it did that same "sputtering and spitting " like was not getting enough gas...Took out the EEC, cleaned the holder...I got water Intrusion from somewhere's...Last week, Trk running great, then cranked it up, spitting and sputtering, I just gave it the gas and said..."You ain't abandoning me a mile from home, It's you or me, Chicky....!!!"...Finally it started running on all cylinders....As of today, it's running okay...Cranks good, runs fine....This is nuts to say the least...Mechanics 'round here ain't all that good, even though its tons of shops....You know how to fix the problems with your trk better than they do....
I have a 1992 it basically did the same thing ran great after I put the new computer in and then bad again, the last thing I changed was the coolant temp sensor and it seems to be running fine now. But my truck had the opposite problem it kept flooding out with gas. Hard to start and kept randomly dieing and sputtering, only reason I knew is I smelled gas and it would smoke once I got it started. Put new temp sensor in runs fine now so hopefully it's fixed for real this time. It did die yesterday but only on hills turns out I'm just out of gas lol, the gauge is all goofy it starts off at 1/4 tank and after a few minutes it goes to the real amount which is Empty. The back tank was empty anyways so it didn't help when I switched tanks. Goodluck
Very informative. Thank you.
I'm having issues with my 1990 F-250 . Replaced the inline fuel filter but no difference. My relay is on the firewall to the left of the brake pedal. Haven't checked the selector switch yet but I'm going to go ahead and replace that regulator under the hood.. Mine's a little different.. some genius designed it to have the hex head screws coming in from the BOTTOM! I had to use small vice grips to loosen and remove those screws but I gott'er done. I'm going to totally replace everything under the hood I can a little bit at a time but for now I just need to get it running reasonably right. Thanks for the great Video Dave.
daddy, boy do i feel your pain on those underneath allens! i have a 1990 e350 van and i was so excited because of all the things i've had to change i looked at that one and said 'finally, an easy one i can actually get to', well...nope, that one allen you can't get to because of the plug for the fuel injector and 2 other plug wires. you can't get into that engine forward side of fuel injector clip release to remove the plug. i rotated injector and finally got stuff off but now i wonder if i didn't create a small leak at the injector gasket. i get more pressure with new regulator but now loose pressure fast. damn, everything's such a bitch with these vans. anyway, i had to reply when i read your pain because i'm your soul mate in said pain. wish me luck daddy:)))-barbie
Bought a 93 4.9 in November. It won’t start without ether. I’m going to try this next.
Good work ,l prefer beging with the relay. Thanks
My Town Car is driving me nuts great video. Tomorrow l will change that fuel regulated Tomorrow 4mm Allen hope it does the job !!!!
Thanks good video thank you so much
Im working on a 90 f150 4.9 6 cylinder. Checked pressure with new gauges. With key on engine off 0 psi. Tried several times. Started it and 0 pressure . Pulled tester and connected to a tire 45psi. Pressed relief valve and fingers got wet but not 45-50 psi worth. Started it and did the same and my hand got wet but not shooting out. Pulled the line off the filter after dumping the fuel out of the filter and reinstalling it and after 10 to 20 key on engine off it raised to 30 psi. Left it for some time. Came back and it had dropped to 20psi. Twin tanks havnt worked in decades. Pulled the switch and found plastic plug melted around 4 contacts. Now I have to find what melted the plug. I understand that 4.9 should have 50 psi. I'm going to try to bypass the fuel filter with a tube advance auto parts sells. Good video. Thank you.
excelent
You need this for inertial startup
There are several ways to test psi reg. Check to make sure it holds a vacume . Take vac . hose off when running and psi should go up approx 8 psi. Also look for any fuel in vac hose.
Looks like a good video.
This was helpful my 91 ford bronco was having starting issues its getting fire n gas but aint turning over i replaced timing chain but the initial start of my problem was i would be driving and it would die out i wiggle the fuel relay and it would start up again i thought the relay was problem but not
Thank you v.much appreciate
You are very welcome
The 4.9 inline 6 requires 50 PSI, or you get vapor lock.
On these EEC-IV systems it is much easier to give power to the fuel pump by placing a jumper between pins 2 and 6 off the EEC-IV test connector.
Thank you
You're welcome
There's a metal bracket available to hold your fuel pump selector switch in your dash. If you snap the screw holes off the back of your bezel you can buy this metal bracket and screw the switch to the dash instead.
where can I get one of these? just pulled my bezel off and discovered that the previous owner had already snapped the screw holes.
Very in depth. Good info on jumping the fuel pumps too.
Thanks! 👍
Amazing video! Question for you. I did the test. I get no reading and no sound on the front tank. On the rear tank when I touch to positive on battery, it just sparks a tiny bit. I have my pressure gauge hooked up, and not getting anything. Is it possible it's a grounding issue? Does it ground off the frame, and maybe I can clean it off? The front tank and pump is new.
Thanks again for the video! Cheers
I definitely need some guidance on my 1994 Eddie Bauer Bronco
I'm here because my 96 f150 5.0 "shudders" at around 40 to 50 ish mi hr. I'm not sure what my issue is yet but your video gives a great diagnostic plan thanks...appreciate you Sir
Having this same issue. Did you find a fix?
@@jaw352 yep...made a vid on it. A little painful to watch...a long time ago. There's a bulletin out on it and potentially a free repair.
czcams.com/video/-Hl-H-aFXwI/video.html
czcams.com/video/Fv5En6gqI-U/video.html
Tested your intake/exhaust system PSI? Any CEL?
@nicholasparry6859 no sir I did not. Got tired 9f throwing parts on it and dropped it off at the shop. Ended up getting a new distributor and a wire or two got swapped. And refreshed the ac ...had a leaking Schrader valve that I've known about for years. $1k later...all good. Thanks for the comment
Thanks for the video. What should the fuel pressure be for a n1996 f 150 with a 5.0L? Thank You
I have a 96 f150 and truck was running fine, one day it died on me while running, sat there for a good while trying to get it on and finally cranked on and ran a bit rough ! Month goes by and once again, same issue while pumping gas. It took a long time trying to get it on, idle was a bit stuttery and ran a bit rough but got me home.
the framing simply pops out with the selector switch on a 1993 150XL no disassembly of dash. awesome video though.. precise thorough and slow enough to take notes going along .. thank you
Thanks for great video learned a lot
Cleaned tanks on f150 changed fuil pumps and same problem .hope you can help .haven't tried the full pressure.tbank you
Life saver of information sir. My '87 was having no start issues, and if i jumper the relay harness and force pumps to run, i start right up. With the relay installed i cant turn over. Was gonna replace relay unless you suggest further TS
It depends on how far you have jumpered. If only around the relay, then replace the relay. If it is around the relay and the fuse, check the fuse. If it is all the way back to the tank selector switch, then check the switch and the roll-over switch. Relays are not too expensive, so it is an easy bet to just do the relay.
@@GunStockReviews its so inconsistent to start up, but the relay does only buzz the pumps on for a second or 2 on ignition on. That may be it bc it fires up bypassed and the pumps constant.
so it does seem to be more a bout fuel delivery to the injectors and the fuel pressure at the rail bottoming out requiring the pump by pass to "prime the system" in order to start. i am planing to replace the external pump and pressure regulator given their age at this point.
Turns out in combination with the external pump, fuel regulator... my egr valve was leaking, alternator was dead, and distributor was out of time.
Wow I'm amazed you didn't show a mechanical fuel pump on a 2022 vette or something like most of these videos do.
Magic lube is great to lube up new hoses, helps them fit correctly.
Just about any kind of spray lubricant is good to use for the O ring (wd40 , liquid wrench and such) are good products for that
most fuel injected engines have a fuel rack on top of the engine. its a valve like a air valve stem...just use a nail to push in that valve and a squirt of gas will come out..that will release all pressure in that rack....then flip the switch to the other fuel tank if you have duel tanks, turn on ignition and then turn it off and again use the nail to push in that valve stem like device...if fuel squirts out again then you know the fuel pumps are working and that is eliminated as a problem
Great information
Glad you liked it
So, this 94 f 350 460 injected has volume, some pressure at the schrader, while both pumps run continuously when switched accordingly.
It runs on a sprayed fuel to plenum but not via the injectors. It's my suspicion the check valve in the line is hung up open? (since the pump runs possibly merely transferring the fuel to the other tank while supplying volume and some pressure at the rail?
Any thoughts ?
I'm on a ranch with little to no diagnosis equipment
Thanks in advance
Will it run with out the vacuum hook up can you just block the vacuum off on the pressure regulator.?
Is the selector switch the same for 1993 f150? I need to pump out some bad gas, its been sitting 9 years. Thanks
They way to check the regulator is with a manual vacuum pump. If working correctly fuel pressure will decrease when more vacuum is applied
You said it backwards
@@vickvam3412 you are correct. Must have had both thoughts try to come out at once . When running if you remove the vacuum it will gonto regulated pressure. When you hook up a vacuum pump and pull vacuum it pulls the diaphragm and reduces fuel pressure. I corrected it thank you sir
This instruction video is for diy mechanics...your instructions sound like your talking to another mechanic...if your going to use such technical wording...back it up with how exactly it's done ...so annoying
@@msegert173 im sorry i spoke plane english. Not one thing i said was technical. The process i described uses basic hand tools. If you dont know what the fuel regulator is you dont need to be testing the fuel system. And a vaccum pump is available at Harbor freight for under 20.00 and if your going to work on cars tou need to have one
I have a question… I just put a new REAR gas tank, fuel pump in sending unit in my 1993 dual tank F150 302. the front tank works great. I was finding that the rear tank wasn't sending any fuel, so I hooked 12V directly to the fuel pump, used a clear hose on the output, and what I am seeing is it's sputtering a little bit of fuel out. Very little. Why would this happen? Could it be a bad fuel pump? Shouldn't it be a solid stream of fuel coming out of the fuel pump down that hose? Now, I didn't prime the hose before I hooked it back up. I don't think you need to do that. Just curious what you think I should look at next.
EEC? Where is it located, having trouble with my dads now mine 87 F150. Although it’s only got 24,000 original miles but sometimes I hear pump ( rt under driver door) engage sometimes not. Aren’t there pumps in each tank also? Then there’s the round black thing tank lines run into, then another inline pump, then filter.
Replacing the fuel regulator on a 1990 F150 5.0 requires pulling off 3 allen bolts that screw upwards and the one nearest to the fire wall is a sob, unless someone else knowes a easier way?
My truck is doing the same thing. I'm going to do what was said.
When you did the initial pressure check for each pump, the pressures were in spec., yet you changed the pressure regulator. So was the regulator not maintaining within specs. with the engine running? It would have been more informative to see what was going on with the old regulator still on with the engine running or was it malfunctioning at higher engine speeds? Taking the dash out seemed to be an unnecessary step---in this case anyways, although i suppose it would help those having an issue with the tank selector switch. Thanks for the video.
Question how do you know when pressure is low ?
how do you connect the fuel tester no one show this on youtube
Thank you. I am doing this now. Question. As you are putting it on coming off the manifold there is a 3/8" vacuum hose that turns 90 degrees, runs toward the firewall and then runs down behind the intake manifold. (The one without the vacuum T). What is that? What does it go to? (I have a 1995 F150 5.8 EFI, in CA.) Mine wiggles around a lot and I can't easily tell if it is attached to something broken or not.
While I’m not clear on the tube you are referring to, most of the diverters and control doors in the heating and air conditioning ducting use vacuum actuators. If it is going through the fire wall it is likely going to those actuators.
Anyone know what gauge wire he is using to go directly from battery to fuel pumps?
Starting at the 3:20 mark, there is a wire connecting to the thing, but where does the wire go to? A battery? And what about the other side of the battery? Or does it go somewhere else?
Just bought a 87 ford bronco that is supposed to be rebuilt. Has a very strong idle and runs great in neutral but if you put it in drive it gets completely gutless and sputters around. It didn’t have any vacuum lines when I bought it, replaced all them and still have the same issue. I’m clueless as a young man working on something older than I am but could use some advice if anyone has anything
Any idea why there is NO fuel pressure when I checked the pump and it is good?
My fuel pressure regulator bolts come up from the bottom do you know how much of a pain in the neck that was
Wait how did you power the switch in the beginning of the video? Is that the wire you have listed in your tools in the video description?
I just connected it to the positive battery post.
Thats great if u have and external regulator. P
But a Corsa is internal and when you uy a pump it's missing the "cap" that as the regulator built in.!!!!
So much easier to farm diagnose the old trucks and fix. Mine 300 6 has 300,000 plus miles and still very reliable. My 2012 won't start and so many possible things could go wrong. Not reliable. Now got to
Tow 75 miles to a big city grauge to fix.
👏🏼👏🏼👏🏼
What are the black parts nearest to the fuel regulator? I have two male wire plugs ends hanging near there and I'm afraid a part was stolen from my mechanic
Can someone tell me where the fuel rail pressure regulator/sensor is on the 2014 Ford Mustang V6 3.7?
I have a inertia switch on the driverside of my 1990 f150 xlt lariat, is this the fuel shutoff or is it on the passenger side kick panel
It’s your correct switch. I have the same thing. You’ll see a little bit of red through a slit towards the top
In your description you say the Inertia switch comes after the selector switch. It doesnt. It goes like this...fuelpump relay to red w/yellow wire on the inertia switch plug that sits between the black n white and the red wire on the fuelpump selector switch plug you tested both fuelpumps off of . You test the inertia switch by testing the red w/yellow wire for power using a DVMM and the key turned to the ON position. Both fuelpumps should register 43-45psi each with engine not running and after the engine starts vacuum suction lowers the fuel pressure at the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel pressure should read 33-35psi to run the engine properly...Another thing to do to get a more accurate reading is to change the fuel filter after doing initial testing...This will tell you if you had a fuel restriction. Most times the antibackflow checkvalves on the fueltank outputs are the culprits........
Plz do tell about these check valves..
does anyone know the size of the adapter to connect to the fuel rail test port?
When I power up my rear fuel pump with a test wire, it works. But when my rear tank is selected and I power the key on, I bet no pressure. Is this the tank selector switch that is bad?
Thank you for share this ~~~
You're welcome 😊
I have a problem with my 2001ford ranger yes it start but don't have power May you please help me to solve the problem.
Wondering why not just put key on (forward) too test fuel pressure on rail ???? then check fuel pressure when engine running ?????
Sir my truck becomes hard to start below 40 degrees Fahrenheit. Starts normally in warm weather. Any ideas
I have a 1986 f150 and I have replaced both pumps and the filter and put in gas treatment but still when you turn the key it will fire up and only keep running if you pump the gas and even then you can’t rev it up and as soon as you let off it dies.
Regulator. Had a similar problem
Also sounds like vacuum leak
Why is my fuel pressure tester not reading? i have it hooked up to fuel rail and once primed my needle on tester does not move. First truck ive had with 5.8.
Hi there 👋 I have a 1994 Ford F150 xlt 5.0 4x4 it recently started kind of bucking acting like it run out of fuel when I'm driving it and sometimes will stall at a light can the fuel pressure regulator be the problem or fuel pump ?
Yes, it could be either, but I would check for vacuum leaks first.
My question is what was the fix? Weren't you getting the right amount of pressure from that pressure regulator when you put your gauge on there so why did you have to replace that pressure relief regulator
Why does one over load on gas when you strat it it a 96 4.9 Ford
Thank you!
You're welcome!
how do you know it wasnt the tank switch?
FUEL REGULADOR ON A F150 2004 FORD
will a malfunctioning fuel pressure regulator cause VERY poor mileage? 5.0L 87 F150 and I get around 110 KM on 1/2 a tank of gas. That's like 60 miles.....
Are you seeing gray or black exhaust? Burning that much fuel, you should see something out of the tail pipe. Pull a couple of spark plugs to see if they are fouling from excess fuel. Are you finding this fuel drop from looking at the fuel gauge or is it from the amount of gas you put in at the gas station? If it is just the fuel gauge, you could just have a bad fuel sending unit. Are you sure you do not have a fuel leak in the system somewhere? If you are putting that much fuel through the engine, it could be the pressure regulator - it is a cheap replacement - but I would look elsewhere first to be sure that much fuel is going through the engine.
@@howtodoityourself6178 Nope. the truck has 2 fuel tanks. running on the front one. It may be the DFR dumping return fuel into the rear tank. Will test this next week.