There is no problem with those rocking pistons. That is normal. Those pistons are low silicon aluminum that were made at the Johnson factory; they have taper but are not cam ground to fit. So they are loose until they warm up. Those V4's are very noisy when started cold. The V6 models used high silicon pistons (made by Zollner) that are much tighter (and quieter). The piston that is scored is likely related to a carb problem. I was employed by that manufacturer for many years and am quite familiar with those motors.
When I was a kid we had a 90 on my Dad's boat and we always warmed it up for 10min (this amounted to idling across the lake), there were several tales told at the docks of people throwing thier boat in the water and gunning cold and blowing the engine up.
Jeffery wagner i just took my heads off a 2000 200hp johnson i have a bottom right cylinder down all others have good compression i i was wondering all cylinders rock side to side alittle wondering if thats normal.. the bad cylinder rocks alot
Love youre vids Brandon,and that fast forward motor rebuild/dismantle is the ducks nuts :).Makes something scary look attemptable.Happy new year and best wishes from Adelaide Australia
Brandon, I love these videos you do of tearing down these old V4’s! Very useful stuff for those of us that own one of these great motors. The only question I have is, have you ever made any vids of the reassembly process? That would be great if you did! Thanks! Keep up the great vids!
Ive got a 90 Evinrude that the pistons have been like that for 7ish years now (had to replace head gaskets at the time and noticed the pistons with slop in the cylinders). Still runs like a top to this day.
Video on the tear down of that shot 90 hp was absolutely cool entertaining and knowledgeable.. that you very much. You rock .yea I have torn down more of my share of Johnson v-4s and Merc v-6 two strokes.. thanks again.love your presentation.. thanks again 😀😎
Hi Brandon, love your video, it did show for something i was looking for! Brandon, can you please help me finding all inlets for cooling and vacuum for a 115 hp V4 Evinrude 1990? I tried to find a schematic view online, but cannot find anything suite my needs. Rudolf from the Caribbean
Brandon love your video....i have a 1987 110 evinrude...after we did the carburetor rebuilt so how the motors not getting any gas....change all the fuel hose...fuel pump...fuel line...and fuel primer....and i check the fuel tank everything look fine nothing clog up vent line good....but everytime it starts after you press fuel from the primer into the motor it runs until the fuel is all burn out then motor dies....will start again after press some more fuel from the primer fuel. I did everything i know and watch from CZcams can't get it to work just check to see if you might have any awesome idea what's causing that issue. Thanks...
I have a 1962 75 hp Evenrude V4 (Fat Four - I think first generation) I have owned for 26 years & I think that the boat & motor was not used for about 15 years before I bought it. My power head still runs good & I have had to do very little to it over the years. Things I have done to it: * put all new hoses * put new spark plug wires & rotor (Had wrong rotor when I purchased, I have coil ignition & rotor for magneto ignition was installed) * Replaced float in carburetor * Replace ignition points & condenser every few years. * Replace fuel filter every couple of years * Replaced rubber diaphragm in fuel pump with one that is better suited for modern fuel. * Replaced voltage regulator with modern electronic style (my 1962 has separate electrical box & original rectifier is still good) * Replaced (60 amp?) fuse with (40 amp?) Circuit breaker that I think resets it self if tripped. * Replaced Thermostat & poppet valve (replaced any plastics parts in Thermostat block that were cracked etc) I replaced most parts in Thermostat block - i think including springs. * Replaced ignition switch & installed new Hot light. * I run 50:1 mix with Pennzoil synthetic blend marine 2 stroke oil * I use premium gas with marine fuel stabilizer. * I use Champion J8C Spark Plugs * the version of automatic choke used in 1962 was not very good, so I was able to rig up some nylon string & plastic tubing for a guild to create a means to open choke from drivers seat. The Lower Unit: * Gear housing had been cracked & JB Welded by previous person. I took casting to & had welded & covered with epoxy & fiberglass. * Replaced Needle bearings below water pump. * Replaced bushing on driveshaft that needle bearings ride on. * Tig welded forward gear to knurled hub that is splined to propeller shaft for Direct Drive. 1962 was first year for selectric shift & I converted to direct drive for reliability. I have a trolling motor & paddles for reverse. * I replaced Water Pump Rubber Rotor/impeller & Cast Housing. - I have a question: How often should the water pump rotor/impeller be replaced? This seems to be the million dollar question. I put the lower unit in a cut down 50 gallon drum filled with water each year to make sure water is pumping, at the start of each season. I run usually in Lake Erie which is fresh water. Anyhow, some say on the internet 3 to 5 years, others say if it is pumping water wait till hot light or buzzer goes off.
well if the hot light or buzzer goes off, your already in the boat, out on the water- where you need the engine running to get home. Sure you can get towed in, but thats a couple hundred from the tow-boats, or you slip a hundred to the guy that towed you. ...a pump every few years is cheaper, and you dont have to keep your eye out for overheating.
@@BrandonsGarage I think I will replace impeller next year, it's probably been twenty years. I have Boat US membership that includes free towing. One time putting the lower unit on I did not get the cooling tube lined up right & the hot light came on. I always test now before taking to the lake. I torqued cylinder heads because it had overheated. Thanks
I have a Johnson v4 outboard like yours and dont have identified numbers has trim moter that sit on right side with 3 wire and 3 hole with reservoir holes and pump lines out to it i was told it was a 77-78 the trim moter has arco Replacement unit
Believe it or not 56 years of age been around Boats and Motors all my life just got done selling a 1957 Johnson seahorse five-and-a-half like two days ago I've worked on boats I've worked on carburetors tune them up I've made them run but I have never seen the inside of a block until this video🤯
Those older crossflow evinrudes are tough, a lower hp model as the one you've got will yield years of quality service all the while it's pistons slap away and bearings grind down
my 78 evi 115 just let go or part of the piston top around the side, can see the top ring. looked like a bolt was in there bouncing around, head is trashed from it to. like someone used a air hammer with chisel to pound the piston in and on the head to scaore it clean. funny is there's not even a scuff mark on the cylinder wall, damage is fresh, 120 psi on the other 3 cyls. so do i rebuild or buy a reman unit for 2500
AS others have said below the pistons are tapered and, they expand when they reach temp. So yes some piston movement is how it should be. You have detonation / preignition on No 2 cyl
From 1977 to 80 they had high ring pistons which failed. I changed countless under warranty. Pistons are cam ground oval and always sloppy in these. We have some from 1970 v4 and 3 Cylinder still running salt water use!
@@brucegerard309 well my 78 evin 115 popped off part of that thin section on a piston yesterday. what piston set can i get that has the top ring lowered that will fit this in stock bore or maybe .010 over
Our 79 Johnson 115 melted a piston after just two years on the water. OMC fixed it under warranty and admitted there was an issue. They stood behind the product but we had to force the dealers hand.
Oh it'll run. I spent last summer running mine with only 3 cylinders. Thought my diaphragm was bad on the last trip then found out the rings were ripped off and jammed into the head
My english i bad, but ill will try ask you a guestion. I have a 1997 Evinrude 70 hp. Senter sylinder is broken and the sylinder house has some smale scrathes that i can online feal whit my nails. Compresion is 0 and 7 on the other 2 . There is nothing like those og your video. Is there eny hope. Is the sylinder house a part i can change/ reaplace I live in Norway and everyting cost like we where all rich. Thanks for shearing videos
hey mate, I have picked up the exact same engine with no controls. I'm a bit worried if I start her up I won't be able to turn her off. any idea what wire colour is the kill switch?
Fishy Hobby ~If I’m not mistaken, the Johnson Evinrude and OMC V-4 crossflows are exactly the same parts internally. The difference in HP comes from the size of the carburetor bores. (Some features of the external block may vary, such as bosses on the block for cable hookup etc...). Hope this helps.
I've got one for you! My early 80s johnson 70hp (3 cyl) has an issue. It bogs down when I put it from idle to full thrortle in gear. BUT, if I push the key in and throttle down it takes off fine... Ideas? Thanks for the videos, you helped me reseal my bottom end last year.
Well, the key in points to fuel. You have a fuel delivery problem somewhere. This could be as simple as an air leak on a fuel line, or a clogged carb jet.
@@TheHowtoDad I have the issue intermittently but have not tried the choke (key in). I have gone to prime bulb and pumped on it and the engine rpms come up.
Hey Brandon just bought a 90hp realized the water pump line was full of crap so the must of been running it hot 90hp Merc top cyl 120 psi middle 90psi bottom 120 psi can you give me any tips or point me in the right direction for parts it's a 1989 mercury 90hp thanks
That is typical over heat damage not from wear. I built hundreds of them. You could put a piston kit and bore one cylinder an use again no problem. In fact low budget we would hone cylinder and remove aluminum smudged on iron bore if not scored deeply put a used piston in. Will run for years.
have you ever change a V4 115 thermostats?? is it really necessary to cut the engine cowling or can it be done without cutting it? Thanx a lot man. Great videos!
I did on a 1982 140hp. You can just do it as is but it is almost impossible to compress the springs and you need three small hands. In the end it is soooo worth cutting a hole the cover ..use a small dremel cutting wheel so that you can reuse the metal.
@@robinm3003 thanks for your input man, although the exhaust cover for the 140 HP is way much more complicated than for the 115 (which is flat). I'll give it a try without cutting. Just don't like the idea of cutting out the engine main cowling
@@licuado I didn't either. After spending hours trying to get the parts back in, I gave in...literally takes 5 minutes with the access hole. Good luck.
the worst piston shows signs of lean run condition(most scuffing on intake side of piston)overheat lack of cooling piston generaly scuffs 360 degrees due to the fact that the piston expands due to extreme heat,& scuffing will be more pronounced on exhaust side due to extreme exhaust temp.that engine has been worked before,the cross hatch in that one cylinder not factory hatch
I broken a piston and damage the cylinder wall I could not get parts so I took my 1995 Evinrude 150hp a part and took out that piston and connecting rod and close up my powerhead with only 5 Pistons in the powerhead it vibrates a little on idle it runs great , it's on a 17 foot aquarsport and am doing 40 mph.
well youre dumping fuel out the exhaust port, and not getting fuel in the opposite piston. JB welding the piston in there to close off the hole might have been a better option.
Both. Usually just parts, especially the bigger ones. I wanted to build a following first, before releasing large, in depth, complicated videos. nearly 3 years later, April marks the first month where I have passed $100 in revenue. At this point now, I see some value in making videos; and will start making/releasing my repair videos. I have gigs upon gigs of footage of engines that I will start editing and uploading.
Also, I think most people who decided to work on their own engine just need to be pointed in the direction of how to do it. I think my removal & teardown videos really help with that, as knowing how to properly take something apart is most of the battle.
Also also, Its funny how most people (locals) who know I make videos, offer to let me fix their motor for free in exchange for the opportunity to film the engine they own. I always decline, as there is no shortage of junky old outboard in need of repair.
@@BrandonsGarage Geeze ... I saw the 100 and thought 100k and about quit my job to make youtube videos ... glad I reread it correct! I love your videos by the way. I've learned a lot, but don't have enough time to really watch youtube enough. Need to fix my own stuff first.
All the comments on here and nobody noticed the elephant in the room. The diverter hoses between the cylinders are supposed to be perfectly round. The diverter hoses in this engine have deformed to the point they would severely restrict water flow around the out perimeter of the water jacket. The water comes up from the bottom and is supposed to travel up the water jacket and around the top of the cylinder. When the diverter hose becomes so oval shaped it restricts or completely cuts off water flow around the perimeter. If you were to completely rebuild that engine and not replace those hoses with new perfectly round hoses it would fail very quickly. I suspect at some point in the early eighties omc started using hoses made of inferior quality material.
Hey Brandon, why not rebore this engine? I have almost same engine (112), no experience but would like to gain insight as to if a rebore is solution? Thanks
I have a 90hp Evinrude with zero compression in the 4th cylinder. Can't find a single person who is willing to work on it or point me in the correct direction.
lol guys ALWAYS TAKE OUT THE TAPER PINS BEFORE SPLITTING AN ENGINE.... just sayin "-). Replacing pistons in this engine are low cost and easy to do. Even if you have it bored out it is still just a few hundred dollars versus thousands to replace the power head. The fact that you can see crosshatching means it is probably not as bad as you think./ The pistons are tapered, the top ring area is smaller than the skirt (bottom). They normally rock side to side even when brand new. All you had to do was fix what ate the piston top and go from there. The junky piston.. that light grey discoloring and damage more than likely was from a head gasket leaking water into the cylinder..You would be surprised how easily you can clean up that cylinder, bore to .020 and have a great running engine with just a few hundred invested. The fact that you see cross hatching is a great thing. The port hole area will lose it from where the wrist pin rides. Give it a shot or if you really do nothing with these power heads contact me. My shops have been rebuilding these for just under 50 years now.
I dont have an answer to the needle bearing thing on outboards but logically thinking they could have auto style bearings on 4-strokes if they are pressure oiled and not splash oiled because the oil pressure will act as the bearing surface but on 2-strokes you absolutely need roller bearings because of the lack of oil pressure doing the lubrication/oil film :)
I don't know about failure... VRO - Variable Ratio Oiling. Lets say the prior owner was idling for a while, so mixture was probably 120:1, Then they full throttle it with 120:1 in the carbs; how long would that last for? I trump it up to a design flaw.
I had a engine way crazier then yours the whole head was chewed up chucks missing every where and still had 100 psi on the cylinders except for 1 that had 85
They would still be making them if it weren't for the EPA. And the earth would be just as warm and just as many dead fish. But you would have more money in your bank, not buying 30k+ motors. Just ridiculous
There is no problem with those rocking pistons. That is normal. Those pistons are low silicon aluminum that were made at the Johnson factory; they have taper but are not cam ground to fit. So they are loose until they warm up. Those V4's are very noisy when started cold. The V6 models used high silicon pistons (made by Zollner) that are much tighter (and quieter). The piston that is scored is likely related to a carb problem. I was employed by that manufacturer for many years and am quite familiar with those motors.
When I was a kid we had a 90 on my Dad's boat and we always warmed it up for 10min (this amounted to idling across the lake), there were several tales told at the docks of people throwing thier boat in the water and gunning cold and blowing the engine up.
Wingnut353 shit I’m glad you shared this info. I have this engine and never knew
@@Wingnut353 i just bought a boat with this motor thanks
"Just some slop." Totally still within tolerance!
Jeffery wagner i just took my heads off a 2000 200hp johnson i have a bottom right cylinder down all others have good compression i i was wondering all cylinders rock side to side alittle wondering if thats normal.. the bad cylinder rocks alot
Bro, I like your videos. They really help me get over the initial shock of taking motors apart. Thank you!
The best CZcams videos ...... thank you for taking the time and explaining ...... there are almost 2-stroke engine mechanics .... thank you very much
Finally a video that showed me a little bit how to remove and reinstall the pistons.
Love youre vids Brandon,and that fast forward motor rebuild/dismantle is the ducks nuts :).Makes something scary look attemptable.Happy new year and best wishes from Adelaide Australia
"Ducks Nuts" .. You guys from Australia have Some Cool Lingo .. LOL
All those old omc v4 were awesome motors. I had the 90.115 n 140hp..loved them all
Brandon, I love these videos you do of tearing down these old V4’s! Very useful stuff for those of us that own one of these great motors. The only question I have is, have you ever made any vids of the reassembly process? That would be great if you did! Thanks! Keep up the great vids!
Yeah! I just need to do one again.
Problem is a low hour/use powerhead is cheaper than rebuilding one, so usually I just swap them out.
thanks mate great help. love your videos keep it with the good work
Ive got a 90 Evinrude that the pistons have been like that for 7ish years now (had to replace head gaskets at the time and noticed the pistons with slop in the cylinders). Still runs like a top to this day.
When you first rocked the pistons back and forth at the start, how did you know it wasn't just worn cylinder sleeves?
Video on the tear down of that shot 90 hp was absolutely cool entertaining and knowledgeable.. that you very much. You rock .yea I have torn down more of my share of Johnson v-4s and Merc v-6 two strokes.. thanks again.love your presentation.. thanks again
😀😎
Hi Brandon, love your video, it did show for something i was looking for!
Brandon, can you please help me finding all inlets for cooling and vacuum for a 115 hp V4 Evinrude 1990?
I tried to find a schematic view online, but cannot find anything suite my needs.
Rudolf from the Caribbean
Brandon
love your video....i have a 1987 110 evinrude...after we did the carburetor rebuilt so how the motors not getting any gas....change all the fuel hose...fuel pump...fuel line...and fuel primer....and i check the fuel tank everything look fine nothing clog up vent line good....but everytime it starts after you press fuel from the primer into the motor it runs until the fuel is all burn out then motor dies....will start again after press some more fuel from the primer fuel. I did everything i know and watch from CZcams can't get it to work just check to see if you might have any awesome idea what's causing that issue.
Thanks...
Hi Brandon, what is your recommendation for filling a power trim unit? Quicksilver, Mercury or another brand name?
I have a 1962 75 hp Evenrude V4 (Fat Four - I think first generation)
I have owned for 26 years & I think that the boat & motor was not used for about 15 years before I bought it.
My power head still runs good & I have had to do very little to it over the years.
Things I have done to it:
* put all new hoses
* put new spark plug wires & rotor
(Had wrong rotor when I purchased,
I have coil ignition & rotor for magneto ignition was installed)
* Replaced float in carburetor
* Replace ignition points & condenser every few years.
* Replace fuel filter every couple of years
* Replaced rubber diaphragm in fuel pump with one that is better suited for modern fuel.
* Replaced voltage regulator with modern electronic style (my 1962 has separate electrical box & original rectifier is still good)
* Replaced (60 amp?) fuse with (40 amp?) Circuit breaker that I think resets it self if tripped.
* Replaced Thermostat & poppet valve (replaced any plastics parts in Thermostat block that were cracked etc) I replaced most parts in Thermostat block - i think including springs.
* Replaced ignition switch & installed new Hot light.
* I run 50:1 mix with Pennzoil synthetic blend marine 2 stroke oil
* I use premium gas with marine fuel stabilizer.
* I use Champion J8C Spark Plugs
* the version of automatic choke used in 1962 was not very good, so I was able to rig up some nylon string & plastic tubing for a guild to create a means to open choke from drivers seat.
The Lower Unit:
* Gear housing had been cracked & JB Welded by previous person.
I took casting to & had welded & covered with epoxy & fiberglass.
* Replaced Needle bearings below water pump.
* Replaced bushing on driveshaft that needle bearings ride on.
* Tig welded forward gear to knurled hub that is splined to propeller shaft for Direct Drive. 1962 was first year for selectric shift & I converted to direct drive for reliability. I have a trolling motor & paddles for reverse.
* I replaced Water Pump Rubber Rotor/impeller & Cast Housing.
- I have a question:
How often should the water pump rotor/impeller be replaced?
This seems to be the million dollar question.
I put the lower unit in a cut down 50 gallon drum filled with water each year to make sure water is pumping, at the start of each season.
I run usually in Lake Erie which is fresh water.
Anyhow, some say on the internet
3 to 5 years, others say if it is pumping water wait till hot light or buzzer goes off.
well if the hot light or buzzer goes off, your already in the boat, out on the water- where you need the engine running to get home.
Sure you can get towed in, but thats a couple hundred from the tow-boats, or you slip a hundred to the guy that towed you.
...a pump every few years is cheaper, and you dont have to keep your eye out for overheating.
@@BrandonsGarage
I think I will replace impeller next year, it's probably been twenty years.
I have Boat US membership that includes free towing.
One time putting the lower unit on I did not get the cooling tube lined up right & the hot light came on.
I always test now before taking to the lake. I torqued cylinder heads because it had overheated.
Thanks
Did anyone compression test it before teardown? Great video!
I have the Speedifour 80hp 1966 evinrude, they simply keep running even like this condition.
I have a Johnson v4 outboard like yours and dont have identified numbers has trim moter that sit on right side with 3 wire and 3 hole with reservoir holes and pump lines out to it i was told it was a 77-78 the trim moter has arco Replacement unit
Believe it or not 56 years of age been around Boats and Motors all my life just got done selling a 1957 Johnson seahorse five-and-a-half like two days ago I've worked on boats I've worked on carburetors tune them up I've made them run but I have never seen the inside of a block until this video🤯
Hi! Engine 115HP OMC 1995. crankcase with what force to tighten?
Those older crossflow evinrudes are tough, a lower hp model as the one you've got will yield years of quality service all the while it's pistons slap away and bearings grind down
my 78 evi 115 just let go or part of the piston top around the side, can see the top ring. looked like a bolt was in there bouncing around, head is trashed from it to. like someone used a air hammer with chisel to pound the piston in and on the head to scaore it clean. funny is there's not even a scuff mark on the cylinder wall, damage is fresh, 120 psi on the other 3 cyls. so do i rebuild or buy a reman unit for 2500
Curious if the plugs that came out of that had bent/crushed or nicked electrodes? Enough pin or bearing play to cause contact?
great work showing the damages of an over used motor. thx
I hand poured those pistons from molten aluminum in the zollner foundry. They were difficult to pour. It was the worst molding station in the foundry.
Did you really? What else did you make?
AS others have said below the pistons are tapered and, they expand when they reach temp. So yes some piston movement is how it should be. You have detonation / preignition on No 2 cyl
From 1977 to 80 they had high ring pistons which failed. I changed countless under warranty.
Pistons are cam ground oval and always sloppy in these. We have some from 1970 v4 and 3 Cylinder still running salt water use!
But this was a 90's motor
My 79 140 runs like new still durable as hell from my experience
@@brucegerard309 well my 78 evin 115 popped off part of that thin section on a piston yesterday. what piston set can i get that has the top ring lowered that will fit this in stock bore or maybe .010 over
Our 79 Johnson 115 melted a piston after just two years on the water. OMC fixed it under warranty and admitted there was an issue. They stood behind the product but we had to force the dealers hand.
What type of motor is that with the offset cylinders? Mine are symmetrical on both sides.
I had to replace head gaskets on my 1985 Johnson 115hp it had play in the pistons and now I know why it runs on 2 cylinders
Hello! Do you have the metal plate (serial and motor number) left?
I need that robot mode juice u got so i can take my engines apart that fast 😊
What is the torque foot pounds for an 88 spl evinrude
Oh it'll run. I spent last summer running mine with only 3 cylinders. Thought my diaphragm was bad on the last trip then found out the rings were ripped off and jammed into the head
My english i bad, but ill will try ask you a guestion.
I have a 1997 Evinrude 70 hp. Senter sylinder is broken and the sylinder house has some smale scrathes that i can online feal whit my nails.
Compresion is 0 and 7 on the other 2 .
There is nothing like those og your video. Is there eny hope. Is the sylinder house a part i can change/ reaplace
I live in Norway and everyting cost like we where all rich.
Thanks for shearing videos
Number two cylinder leaned out.
hey mate, I have picked up the exact same engine with no controls.
I'm a bit worried if I start her up I won't be able to turn her off.
any idea what wire colour is the kill switch?
Black with yellow stripe.
Just need to connect it to (-) or ground, and she'll die.
Since that motor did run, did you have any compression readings? Funny but can't be but curious..
No readings,
Engine came without head gaskets, wasnt worth putting some on.
Just curious, what would estimate be to rebuild a 1990 140hp Johnson, basically same but bigger motor..?
Fishy Hobby ~If I’m not mistaken, the Johnson Evinrude and OMC V-4 crossflows are exactly the same parts internally. The difference in HP comes from the size of the carburetor bores.
(Some features of the external block may vary, such as bosses on the block for cable hookup etc...). Hope this helps.
if you keep using that make sure your auxiliary motor runs good
I've got one for you! My early 80s johnson 70hp (3 cyl) has an issue. It bogs down when I put it from idle to full thrortle in gear. BUT, if I push the key in and throttle down it takes off fine... Ideas?
Thanks for the videos, you helped me reseal my bottom end last year.
Well, the key in points to fuel. You have a fuel delivery problem somewhere.
This could be as simple as an air leak on a fuel line, or a clogged carb jet.
@@BrandonsGarage I rebuilt the carbs last year, I will check the lines. Thanks for the direction
Fuel filter maybe, or trash in the gas tank blocking the line at the pick up.
@@2olvets443 neither of those. But it works fine when I push the choke in...so fuel delivery somewhere I guess
@@TheHowtoDad I have the issue intermittently but have not tried the choke (key in). I have gone to prime bulb and pumped on it and the engine rpms come up.
Hey Brandon just bought a 90hp realized the water pump line was full of crap so the must of been running it hot 90hp Merc top cyl 120 psi middle 90psi bottom 120 psi can you give me any tips or point me in the right direction for parts it's a 1989 mercury 90hp thanks
Boats.net
Hi! Engine 115HP OMC 1995. Connecting rob with what force to tighten?
32 ft.lb
A set of rings and pistons and Will be good for years and years
Piston clearence
Are you on speed you working Like speedy Ghazali If you are I want Some
Rings and bearings are always the first to go. New rings and ready to rumble.
That is typical over heat damage not from wear. I built hundreds of them. You could put a piston kit and bore one cylinder an use again no problem. In fact low budget we would hone cylinder and remove aluminum smudged on iron bore if not scored deeply put a used piston in. Will run for years.
SovietRefusnik1 Golem So where are all your videos of working on outboards
Teri and TL Stanbro
Not everyone makes a video about everything they do...
How expensive is it to have that done? Thanks
have you ever change a V4 115 thermostats?? is it really necessary to cut the engine cowling or can it be done without cutting it? Thanx a lot man. Great videos!
I did on a 1982 140hp. You can just do it as is but it is almost impossible to compress the springs and you need three small hands. In the end it is soooo worth cutting a hole the cover ..use a small dremel cutting wheel so that you can reuse the metal.
@@robinm3003 thanks for your input man, although the exhaust cover for the 140 HP is way much more complicated than for the 115 (which is flat). I'll give it a try without cutting. Just don't like the idea of cutting out the engine main cowling
@@licuado I didn't either. After spending hours trying to get the parts back in, I gave in...literally takes 5 minutes with the access hole. Good luck.
the worst piston shows signs of lean run condition(most scuffing on intake side of piston)overheat lack of cooling piston generaly scuffs 360 degrees due to the fact that the piston expands due to extreme heat,& scuffing will be more pronounced on exhaust side due to extreme exhaust temp.that engine has been worked before,the cross hatch in that one cylinder not factory hatch
I broken a piston and damage the cylinder wall I could not get parts so I took my 1995 Evinrude 150hp a part and took out that piston and connecting rod and close up my powerhead with only 5 Pistons in the powerhead it vibrates a little on idle it runs great , it's on a 17 foot aquarsport and am doing 40 mph.
well youre dumping fuel out the exhaust port, and not getting fuel in the opposite piston.
JB welding the piston in there to close off the hole might have been a better option.
What caused this failure?
Weld a hook on the crank & just use it for an anchor, like a Harley ?
And we can use your teeth for jewelry
Hi Brandon: What it is the box name you broke the bolt? thx.
Sorry come again?
0:47 "apparently it ran" so you didn't hear this run before you took it apart?
This is like the 3rd or 4th one I watched you tear apart. What do you do with them after tear them apart? Rebuild or use for parts?
Both.
Usually just parts, especially the bigger ones.
I wanted to build a following first, before releasing large, in depth, complicated videos.
nearly 3 years later, April marks the first month where I have passed $100 in revenue.
At this point now, I see some value in making videos; and will start making/releasing my repair videos.
I have gigs upon gigs of footage of engines that I will start editing and uploading.
Also, I think most people who decided to work on their own engine just need to be pointed in the direction of how to do it. I think my removal & teardown videos really help with that, as knowing how to properly take something apart is most of the battle.
Also also,
Its funny how most people (locals) who know I make videos, offer to let me fix their motor for free in exchange for the opportunity to film the engine they own. I always decline, as there is no shortage of junky old outboard in need of repair.
@@BrandonsGarage lol
@@BrandonsGarage Geeze ... I saw the 100 and thought 100k and about quit my job to make youtube videos ... glad I reread it correct! I love your videos by the way. I've learned a lot, but don't have enough time to really watch youtube enough. Need to fix my own stuff first.
Wow a butter 3/8 impact..thats old school
All the comments on here and nobody noticed the elephant in the room. The diverter hoses between the cylinders are supposed to be perfectly round. The diverter hoses in this engine have deformed to the point they would severely restrict water flow around the out perimeter of the water jacket. The water comes up from the bottom and is supposed to travel up the water jacket and around the top of the cylinder. When the diverter hose becomes so oval shaped it restricts or completely cuts off water flow around the perimeter. If you were to completely rebuild that engine and not replace those hoses with new perfectly round hoses it would fail very quickly. I suspect at some point in the early eighties omc started using hoses made of inferior quality material.
Can i send you my motor to fix ?
Hey Brandon, why not rebore this engine? I have almost same engine (112), no experience but would like to gain insight as to if a rebore is solution? Thanks
I need a guy like you to rebuild my evinrude 90 . Looks like a pain in the buttocks !
I have a 90hp Evinrude with zero compression in the 4th cylinder. Can't find a single person who is willing to work on it or point me in the correct direction.
would reboring not be an option?
Can you use JB Weld to fix a scored piston ?
Bore it and put some Wiesco racing pistons in it.
they did a really terrible job with the block cement, there aren't any water passages
lol guys ALWAYS TAKE OUT THE TAPER PINS BEFORE SPLITTING AN ENGINE.... just sayin "-). Replacing pistons in this engine are low cost and easy to do. Even if you have it bored out it is still just a few hundred dollars versus thousands to replace the power head.
The fact that you can see crosshatching means it is probably not as bad as you think./ The pistons are tapered, the top ring area is smaller than the skirt (bottom). They normally rock side to side even when brand new. All you had to do was fix what ate the piston top and go from there.
The junky piston.. that light grey discoloring and damage more than likely was from a head gasket leaking water into the cylinder..You would be surprised how easily you can clean up that cylinder, bore to .020 and have a great running engine with just a few hundred invested. The fact that you see cross hatching is a great thing. The port hole area will lose it from where the wrist pin rides. Give it a shot or if you really do nothing with these power heads contact me. My shops have been rebuilding these for just under 50 years now.
Dont let a mechanic with that kinda bad attitude work on anything for you
The Best money can buy.
Um why don't you get the proper tool called a stud remover?
I ask myself that every time.
Brandon's Garage hahaha!!! That’s a good answer!
I didn't realize the conrods were needle bearing. Interesting.
Yeah, car guys see that and they say "???"
Imagine how long a auto engine would last with them....
Haha, yup guilty as charged. Do the newer 4 stroke OB's have needle bearings too or was it just the older two strokes?
I dont have an answer to the needle bearing thing on outboards but logically thinking they could have auto style bearings on 4-strokes if they are pressure oiled and not splash oiled because the oil pressure will act as the bearing surface but on 2-strokes you absolutely need roller bearings because of the lack of oil pressure doing the lubrication/oil film :)
Well, in the 50's they only had a bushing&liner.
That seems to work fine?
Looks like another VRO pump failure.
I don't know about failure...
VRO - Variable Ratio Oiling.
Lets say the prior owner was idling for a while, so mixture was probably 120:1,
Then they full throttle it with 120:1 in the carbs; how long would that last for?
I trump it up to a design flaw.
I disconnected the VRO pump and did a premix of 50:1 works fine, no ghost with pump to contend with,
I had a engine way crazier then yours the whole head was chewed up chucks missing every where and still had 100 psi on the cylinders except for 1 that had 85
They would still be making them if it weren't for the EPA. And the earth would be just as warm and just as many dead fish. But you would have more money in your bank, not buying 30k+ motors. Just ridiculous
cylinders are not that bad, hone them , new pistons ringd etc... main bearings ,run her
What a waste of a good engine