How To Tie The Auto-Block, Prusik And Klemheist Friction Hitches

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  • čas přidán 5. 08. 2024
  • AMGA Instructor Team Member Patrick Ormond explains how to tie the auto-block, prusik and Klemheist friction hitches.
  • Sport

Komentáře • 38

  • @timalgate3709
    @timalgate3709 Před 3 měsíci +2

    All these comments asking for a longer video about which diameter cord to use and when to use which hitches for particular situations, and I’m just grateful for a sub-5 minute video showing all these so clearly.

  • @midi510
    @midi510 Před 4 lety +71

    I like how you just say what needs to be said and don't ramble on.

    • @EricWayneThomasMusic
      @EricWayneThomasMusic Před 3 lety +1

      Yeah really... I appreciate his brevity also. No lip-flapping Aflamicans and unwanted commercials rammed in my face.

    • @mobaumeister2732
      @mobaumeister2732 Před 2 lety

      So true! Direct and to the point.

  • @MarkJones
    @MarkJones Před 3 lety +34

    Would be nice if you had told us why you would use each hitch.

    • @bladesboomsnstuff3484
      @bladesboomsnstuff3484 Před rokem

      These are all backup safety hitches for use in rappelling or rock climbing

  • @billjensen51
    @billjensen51 Před 3 lety +7

    Great video and demonstration. Would like to know some examples of the appropriate uses, but I probably just need to learn these and try them out in a safe, controlled environment.

  • @frontpointmedia
    @frontpointmedia Před 2 lety

    Great instructional from a highly qualified professional. Seriously, he is one of the most highly qualified professionals from whom you could receive this type of training. Amazing what you can get for free on CZcams.

  • @singhrobinable
    @singhrobinable Před 3 lety

    Very nice sir.....Very easy

  • @innovationadventures2721

    Thanks !

  • @AMC-eq3jr
    @AMC-eq3jr Před rokem +2

    0.33 Auto-Block
    1:30 Prusik
    2:50 Klemheist

  • @nauticaltorque
    @nauticaltorque Před 3 lety +3

    Could one use the klemeist as a makeshift Jumar (with a sling)? Basically, would it support my weight if i was stuck on a rope solo and needed to lift my weight off the microtraxion?

    • @benschuster9792
      @benschuster9792 Před 3 lety +4

      I've used a kleimheist tied with a sling as a jumar before to ascend a rope. Just tie it and step into the sling to go up then take up the slack with a belay plate in guide mode or with a grigri then repeat. Also tie knots in the rope periodically so you don't rely entirely on the belay plate/grigri

  • @jakobljungberg4068
    @jakobljungberg4068 Před 3 lety

    Hi, what is the name and brand of the first orange/yellow prusik loop?

  • @christophh9477
    @christophh9477 Před rokem

    In switzerland the prusik is the standard rappel backup. Under the loads encountered in this situation its easy to release under load. That said im swiss and still prefer the autoblock. Faster and easier to tie and you dont have to take the cord out of the crab to tie so you cant drop it.

  • @LowellSkoog
    @LowellSkoog Před 6 lety +20

    There's no mention in the video of whether the klemheist is releasable under load.

    • @TreeCamper
      @TreeCamper Před 5 lety +8

      I assume the autoblock is the only one you would want to attempt to release under load

    • @themeatpopsicle
      @themeatpopsicle Před 5 lety +15

      klemheist is also releasable under load

  • @martynwatson4929
    @martynwatson4929 Před 2 lety +1

    An upside down klemheist is a hedden hitch. It grips in either direction.

  • @rickhaller3328
    @rickhaller3328 Před rokem

    Can the Kliemheist be released when under a load ?

  • @christianmonturanoii6539
    @christianmonturanoii6539 Před 5 měsíci

    I'm reading a dean koontz book face if fear where climb down a building to escape a killer. How do rhey keep climbing down alittle at a time. What happens to the rope above once u go down somewhat. Does that rope stay obove because they are climbing down to a ledge then oin down again from there. And hiw do you climb up ? I don't know much about climbing how do you tie a rope going up if your below it lol do you shoot it up ?

  • @ushi120
    @ushi120 Před 5 lety +2

    Thx for the very informativ video.
    Question:
    What kind of cordolette (differences) do you use for the three hitches (Dimensions and length).
    Thx in advance.

    • @Iithuanianboy
      @Iithuanianboy Před 5 lety +4

      Hitch chords need to be at least 2mm less in diameter than the rope you're tying it to. so for an 11mm rope you would need at a minimum a 9mm diameter hitch chord. Length depends on the knot you're tying and intended use of the chord.

    • @midi510
      @midi510 Před 4 lety +10

      @@Iithuanianboy You mean maximum 9mm, right? My Prusik slings are 5mm.

  • @matthewthaxton6384
    @matthewthaxton6384 Před 6 lety +2

    Whats the difference between the klemheist and the autoblock? It seems like there is just less wraps and not passing the bite through the bottom loop.

    • @TreeCamper
      @TreeCamper Před 5 lety

      about 1 carabiner. also he says the klemheist is the least grabby of the three demonstrated.

    • @caldweller79
      @caldweller79 Před 5 lety +12

      1:02 He says the autoblock has the least holding power of the three. Not the Klemheist.

    • @jacklyncheung4993
      @jacklyncheung4993 Před 4 lety +2

      Autoblock is bidirectional whereas the Klemheist is unidirectional.

  • @trailtrashoutdoors8173

    New friends here from Trail Trash Outdoors! 🤠🤙Awsome video!! Love learning new knots while brushing up on the ones I do. Much love -TTO

  • @mineadventures7938
    @mineadventures7938 Před 2 lety

    I can't see any difference between the klem and auto, just the way you tied it ?

    • @stevenp3913
      @stevenp3913 Před 2 lety +2

      In auto you clip both loop ends to your carabiner, in Klem you pass one loop through the load-side loop and then attach that free single loop to your carabiner. Auto catches in either direction, Klem only catches in one direction.

    • @mineadventures7938
      @mineadventures7938 Před 2 lety

      @@stevenp3913 - got it, thanks🙂

  • @Jack_all
    @Jack_all Před 5 lety +1

    I've been calling my Klemheist a Prusik all this time..

  • @thedoddfishtreemonkey.7760

    They are functional hitches but not the best you can use, look at the veldostein tress and distel hitches. You’ll need an eye to eye cord but they are as smooth as butter.

  • @FT4Freedom
    @FT4Freedom Před 2 lety

    Always people showing knots but not explaining the history or conditions of use.

  • @jdee2095
    @jdee2095 Před 2 lety

    What dip 💩s thumbs downd this?
    By the way he told us which ones are better for climbing and which work for repelling.

  • @gustaverayl1811
    @gustaverayl1811 Před 3 lety +9

    mis named cord configurations are the bane of learning or teaching the ropes. An "auto bloc" is an application and NOT a specific Hitch name. The Kleimheist or "French Machard" is commonly used as an "auto bloc" or "third hand" but is only one of many HITCH es used .There are many types of "Prussiks" and none of them are KNOTS, they are HITCHES. Just as the nick name of "fisherman" is actually a double overhand BEND, A prussic is a HITCH made from cord usually, the cord loop is not a Prussic but is often used to construct one. Don't even get me started on the whole SLING / RUNNER thing. learn the correct terms please.