6 Rock Climbing Knots you must know! | StoneAgeMan
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- čas přidán 11. 06. 2024
- This is the first of our "outdoor skills" series and we're starting with a knot video. In this episode we're looking at some of the essential climbing knots for alpine environments.
These include:
Alpine Butterfly:
Threaded 8
Clove Hitch
Italian Hitch or Munter
Standard Prussik
French Prussik
I want to thank Huw James and Jonas Stenstrom for their help. Find out more about what they're doing here:
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Always extend your rappel device and attach auto-blocks to your harness loop. Don’t attach your auto blocks to your leg loop. That is an old way of doing it that’s led to many deaths when the leg comes up and contacts the belay device. Notice how he even has to re-adjust it in the video because it comes too close to the belay device.
Or put autoblock on top of rap device, don’t extend rap device, tie autoblock to leg loop and control with non break hand
@@BilixicoastI would never put my auto block above - it’s the backup and is just easier to setup below and safter
@@morganmcglade7894 get your hand caught while under a rap device and it will Change your ways
@@Bilixicoast you’re probably didn’t have it extended far enough away - I have mine like 60cm away so my hands aren’t near the device at all - idk how Close you had your third hand if you got it caught in your device
@@morganmcglade7894 stop making assumptions
Sailor here. If there is one crowd I'd take knots advice from, its the climbers. Well done!
Like the setting and the great clarity of creating the knots
Great vid. I don’t ever repel or belay directly off the harness in the event that the prusik can reach the repel device or when belaying risk getting caught up in the system when it is loaded. I belay off the anchor and always use a repel extension. Outside of those two critiques awesome video and Thankyou so much for sharing.
Very simple and explicit demonstration about knots👍🤝👍
Congrats !!!!!Excellent explanations!!!!!! Very good teacher!!!!
Best wishes.
you should revise the prusik part there are a couple of mistakes potencially deadly
Yeah... having that double fisherman’s all up in the prusik is a bad idea. What are the other mistakes you saw?
@@gabeweight9131 the double fisherman's is not most important mistake, what could get you killed is the prusik position. Is not recommended to put the prusik in the leg loop because if you get hit by a rock, your head and torso will most probably go back and your legs go up, in this case the prusik will go against belay device becoming useless and you'll fall hard. The correct technique is to always extend the belay device, using a PAS, dyneema/nylon sling or a quickdraw and then put the prusik on the service loop.
@@luis.borges so you put the dyneema thru both tie in points on your harness and then the prusik carabiner on the belay loop? i saw this method but wasnt sure where to put what
@@samuelstolarik6886 The idea is just to extend the rappel device further up the rope and away from your backup. That way, the prusik cord can't get sucked into the belay device.
@@luis.borges At minute 11:10 the prusik go against the belay, ajajajajaaa
Best knot video I have seen in a while! Great job!
Lads, love the video. You don’t talk to novices like they are stupid. Easy to follow. Good description of why the knot would be used. Great background.
Very good instruction and excellent camera work!
Excellent demonstrations.
Love loop and knots, many thanks for your guys
Thanks for the knot reminder. Been a long time.👍
Thank you. Many of these I did knot know before watching.
Great demo. Thanks for sharing. Take care.
I like your way of teaching Italian hitch........and clove hitch
Awesome thanks for your knowledge and patience is a great thing and always remember safety first and foremost
Fascinating! Well done.
Great tutorial guys!!!!
Good info and great video! Thanks
Great teaching
11:14 Actually he would fall to the ground. His blocker is too close to ATC and that causes blocker to not work.
yes, if he would fall and his legs with be higher the prussik that close to the ATC would be useless and he would fall to the ground
I like this video! And i inspired to make some video like this on my channel, let's check czcams.com/video/sWa5FaCCqVA/video.html
Great video
when you demonstrate the standard prusik, the double fishermen's knot is right at the bridge part of the prusik, will it affect how the prusik perform?
You should show how to tie a stopper knot after attaching to the harness with a figure 8.
I loved this!
Thank you
Nice video very useful.
Cheers Mate.
Some advice on the prusik/rappel situation:
You might want to extend the tuber away from your harness using a dyneema sling etc. and put the prusik onto your belay ring in the harness. That way, the prusik can not be sucked into the tuber device. It is also not recommended to fix it to one leg loop as you showed in the video.
thank you sir. from philippines
LOVE IT!!
Lots of people have pointed out the highly dangerous prusik in this video, but I thought I'd also mention that the way the figure 8 knot is tied is not ideal: it's not unsafe, but could be difficult to untie if subjected to shock loads.
Amazing location. Great way to teach the climbing knots.
Thanks Richard.
vieken Dank für die demonstrartion
Awesome!!
I really like how you slowly show how to do it.
Please change the section on the prusik knot. The prusik literally touches the ATC in the video. If this happens during a fall, you can be seriously injured or die. The belay device should be extended away from your body so the rapel backup cannot touch it.
Boa, nos e técnicas indispensável para montanhas ⛰
What sun glasses do you suggest for ice climbing
I wouldn't put the prusik on that loop and I also wouldn't put it right before the belay device like that.
Excelente. Brazil.
Wouldn't the ashley stopper knot be a better knot at the end of the rope?
Please remove or change the part about the prusiks! This could be very dangerous! You should never attache any load bearing on the legstreps and the prusiks may never be able to come near the ATC!! Also the double fisherman inside the prusik is not ideal.
The information about the other knots are very nice
At least the German "Alpenverein" safety research still propagates this "classic" method in 2020 (www.alpenverein.de/chameleon/public/6fe2054f-1596-91df-0e1c-33a6a7892f0c/Panorama-4-2020-Sicherheitsforschung-Abseilen_31504.pdf). It also shows the "swiss method" which is probably the way you reommend?
It is the ATC that takes up the load in this case. The force on the legstrap is much less than sitting in the harness.
The prusik can get loose and it can basically stop working when it touches/stops at the belay device. You never ever want them to touch and that can happen when you tie the prusik to the leg loop and lift your leg for whatever reason or when your belay device is not far enough from you. That's potentially deadly dude. Make extensions and stay safe.
I think it is better to put the prusik above the belay device if there is no option to extend the belay device itself from the body away. Makes it a bit more difficult because there is only one break hand left but I think it's still better than nothing / a bad working prusik on a leg loop.
@@dalivanwyngarden3204 but then all weigth is on the prusik and not the belay device. And also if you panic or loose your brakestrand, you could grab ahold of the prusik causing it to slide and you falling.
@@dunklezwiebel Die Reepschnur ist je nach Dicke von (3 bis 6mm) 2-5KN zugelassen. 3mm sollte man aber eher nicht nehmen, da diese durch die Seilreibung auch schneller durch ist.
Aber da man beim abseilen nicht sehr schnell ist, sollte dieser Prusik eigentlich auch halten (auch wenn man sehr schnelll ist) Kletterseil hat ja auch nur ~7KN Rating dynamisch.
Aber du hast natürlich recht, das wäre sehr unglücklich - aber ich meinte ja auch nur wenn man das Sicherungsgerät nicht weit genug vom Körper wegbekommt(Schlinge runtergefallen etc.), wenn es irgendwie sein könnte, dass der Prusik von unten ins belaydevice kommt und man dadurch ungebremst fällt, ist es definitiv besser den Prusik über den Gerät zu machen.
Wenn das der Fall ist, der eher ein Ausnahmefall ist, sollte man noch mehr Vorsicht walten lassen, dass man eben nicht in Panik gerät. :)
Irgendwie in die Beinschlaufe den Prusik einzuhängen sollte man unter keinen Umständen.
Je nach dem welchen Stopperknot man macht, kann der auch durchrutschen, also sollte man das mit dem Seil und verschiedenen Knoten ohnehin ausgiebig ausproben.
Es gibt auch einen besonderen Prusik den man unter Last lösen kann, der aber zuverlässig hält.
Do you not think that it's perhaps a good idea to extend your belay plate away from you about 8 inches while using a Prussik ?
experts make corrections to the prussik demo in the comments and the original poster remains mute...what's going on here?
he died by his own prusik. Hopefully NOT!
On the internet everyone is an expert. This is a video about knots, not a repelling instruction. His method is one of the recommended methods for repelling and perhaps he is not interested in a debate about it?
There is a risk that it will not lock if falling backwards and letting go of the rope with the hand, but it was obvious that it worked as he tested it by loading the system in the worst, normal position (the rope going straigt out from the body). There is one less sling needed, one less step to make compared to attaching the prusik to the belay loop. I don't do alpine climbs so I have no idea how big of a risk it is to fall backwards. With a tight rope I don't see how it will happen, but I've never repelled with crampons. On rock I use this method most of the time.
Alpine butterfly,clove hitch
Italian hitch
Figure of 8
French prusick
Cant remember 6th one..!!
I am often pulling furniture up to a second floor. I can try the Italian Hitch or Munter to pull the furniture, but you said it creates a lot of friction is that wrong would you not recomen it for me? Thank you. Your video is awesome.
You won't get any mechanical advantage with the Italian hitch, it would be impossible to take in the rope when it is weighted.
czcams.com/video/aCVz2d8DwZI/video.html
You could try this
Question. double line purpose? Your rope at the attachment point is a single bend around the attachment. point. Tree work I run with a single line. So I don't understand the doubling up of rope. The weakest point is at the anchor point because it is only one piece of rope going around a bend
You're talking about the alpine butterfly or more generally?
@@UntamedScience You're repel line. you are running double line. You go up single. Pass it through the anchor point and then you double repel line. Qeestion what is the purpose of the double line for repelling line?
@@1stFlyingeagle I see. when you get to the bottom you can take your rope with you this way. Is that what you meant.
Are the clove hitch and italian hitch same ?
What is the type of this rope please? Thickness ? How many cores? Brand...
In our country/club the figure 8 is no longe adequate for use as a stopper knot (on rappels for example) as it *can* "roll".
I am not saying it does allways, but that it can.
Interesting. What do you tie then?
@@UntamedScience The Overhand knot, or even better, the Double overhand knot.
I like the Stevadore knot for a stopper. Nice and flat on top, and much easier to untie after loading than a standard overhand knot.
@@davidwarren719 Nice. I will try it sometime.
It's been many years since I've tied any of those knots. Just may have to get back to the climbing gym here. Great video guys. Thank you.
nice
What jacket is that?
So the alpine butterfly looks just like a bowline on a bight. Is it just another name?
straightedgerick no, they are two different knots
How van such great contend get so less views
People will find this one eventually. I appreciate that though.
What rope is this?
Last Prusik, if it touch the atc device will not stop the way down 🛑
6 Rock Climbing knots you must know! | StoneAgeMan
May I suggest this title as "Rock Climbing" is a hot keyword in Google trends.
@@Ari-nn4xy I suppose that works best. Will change that after today. Thanks for the thoughts.
👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
I think people criticising forget jeopardy is a good part of adventure sport. I'm all in favour of slightly vulnerable rope work because footage of associates tumbling down a cliff screaming like banshees would be worth a fortune.
i do not understand what is the advantage of the alpine butterfly vs. 8-knot? someone can help?
Hey Paul, Huw explained to me that the alpine butterfly unties easier, but both work.
@@UntamedScience thanks for your answer! i was thinking the same but was wondering if there are any other advantages...
Even got your figure 8 wrong! Standing end should feed to inside loop with working end on the outside, otherwise when the knot loads the standing end will jump from outside to inside making a knife knot
Just watched this video and am taken aback. Thank you all so much for the string of comments regarding the section on prusik knots. I endorse what has been said. The section on prusiks is seriously erroneous with advice that could result in fatality. Comments below have been made over many months and staggeringly this video is still posted. It needs to be taken down for revision immediately.
In addition to previous comment, there are a variety of prusik knots and it is essential that climbers know the appropriate use of a particular knot that they employ and that they are conversant with the strengths and weaknesses of that knot. Learn which of the knots can be used as an auto block!! If you don't you are dicing with death.
Not only the prusik part has issue, the figure 8 is also not dressed nicely.
There's an easier way to tie a butterfly knot, but I don't think a description by text would help. You can do it in like 3 or 4 seconds without looking.
The problem with the figure 8 is that it is so inefficient! It wastes too much rope.
В русскоязычной среде название "Французский прусик" заставит чесать репу, а вот - "Автоблок" будет сразу понятен (спецам, разумеется).
There's a lot wrong with this video. The figure 8 follow through didn't look dressed correctly, and I could be wrong since at the moment I don't have personal climbing experience, but I thought the prusik (which were also tied wrong) were supposed to go on the non-brake side of the rope.
👍🏻😀
prussik is not right. not a fixed knot. we use those primarily to move loads down a load line. Bad idea to recommend using that rig and no bowline. ??? no bowline...??? no bowline. ?
Does anyone here put a prussik above the belay device?
It might be used more as a auto block when ascending a rope for rescue on easier ground. For example if a beginner climber won't come down and the instructor has to self belay up the rope. A French prussik should slide up, just by pulling the slack side of the rope, as the rescuer/belayer is ascending. A fall would have little force and the auto-block above should lock.
HOWEVER, for decent, the auto block should be moved below the belay device again, as a fall with it above is demanding the auto-block to take all the downward force associated with rappelling. The auto-block above the belay device is holding everything in a fall!
When the auto-block is below the belay device, it is only keeping the break strand in a locked position and very little force is needed.
So much for green screen
And the threaded 8 knot is the wrong way ;) The load side should be on the inner side, when its at top then its hard to untie....
Names are different first Prussik is a autoblock in u.s
Hi.
As many people have already explained before me, and this for months, VERY BAD AND VERY DANGEROUS METHOD FOR THAT "PRUSSIK" PART you are showing here !!
Your method is as good as not using a self-locking knot!
Other people have ever explained the good way in the comment field. Like you should NEVER use the thigh loop to secure anything (It is absolutely not made for that), or always have your belay device away from your self-locking knot...etc
About the names of the self-locking knots, in France (yes I'm French), we call the first you're showing a "Machard". It does exist a "french knot", wich is also a Self-locking knot, and it's not the same knot as the Machard ! Maybe in english there are other names, but I doubt about it ^^
Please correct your video or even delete the very bad part on the prussik which is neither more nor less than endangering the physical integrity, or worse, life, of other people !
(Excuse my bad English but, at least I'm not going to hurt or kill anyone with grammar mistakes..)
10:28 the prussik is it wrong.
agree, the knot shoud be away from the prusik
I would never use a single 8-knot as a stopper knot when abseiling. :/ A double or triple barrel / fisherman's knot is much safer and doesn't roll over itself when force is applied.
I wanna learn them cause why knott?🤷♂️
whos this guy think he is, captain tieing knots?
Uno
you should turn your figure 8...
Cool, I literally tried it during the video.
P.S. I think without music the explanation is a bit too long
16th Commenter early!!
46th liker! Early!!!!!!
Ahhhh
When that prusik hits the ATC (11:15) it releases, no more friction - the guide should have pointed that out. Dangerous set-up (thumbs down, sorry). #peace
Polished. 10/10
Guys, You should take a minimum asecuration course before, you will show blockers techniques on CZcams !
It would be better if only the climbing instructors were show this techniques.
Had to downvote because of that prussik section. Not properly dressed and hitting the belay device... If it had been properly dressed then where the fisherman's was would probably be fine because the wrap was wider than the knot, but he had plenty of room to put it well out of the way so he should have. How you've shown it could get someone killed.
Crazy after 15 years of climbing they can’t dress a figure 8 properly. A knot not neat is a knot not needed. :)
The 8 is wrong made too.... Totally unsafe...
If you can’t tie knots tie lots 🤔
That's not a French prusik it's autobloc
Learn your knots before you teach them.
Thats not how you tie a prusik..
Why in the fuck are you wearing white sunglasses?!
Teaches the figure 8 followthrough, but doesnt dress it properly...
With all due respect, your explanation of the clove hitch is somewhat inconsistent and misleading when instructing people to make a turn 'from left to right on the one side and from right to left on the other.' This is simply wrong, you turn them both in the same direction. You might as well or better say: one FORWARD and one BACKWARD. Both are either right turning or left turning! You simply flip the position of both subsequent, equally turning eyes, and there it is, the clove hitch.
I'm left handed. Yours is a typically right handed person's explanation. Why, for God's sake, do you right handers never get that?