USING A HALL EFFECT SENSOR AND DAKOTA TACH ADAPTER TO DRIVE YOUR DIESEL TACHOMETER FOR AROUND $100
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- čas přidán 1. 11. 2022
- Many diesel trawlers have a "w" alternator signal tachometer system. These can be finicky, inaccurate and lose signal. Unfortunately the W signal has a very high number of pulses and its very hard to adapt another system. Or at least there is not much detailed info on the process. Here is an easy solution that cost around $100
Hall effect sensors www.amazon.com/dp/B09B4S1RZC?...
Magnets www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07...
Thanks for the detailed video. Always learning something new on this channel. 👍
Thanks Mr McPickles
Great, detailed explanation! Thanks for sharing it.
Thanks a bunch.
Thanks very much for the video. Very informative.
No problem at all. I made it because the answer was not easily found on the net and i have seen a ton of discussion around this topic with nothing conclusive. Well...now I (we) know..lol. Unfortunately, this will not be a viral video. There are probably about a thousand people in existence that are currently pondering this question..haha. But that's ok. I enjoy figuring things out.
Ok I'm convinced I need to do this on both my Perkins 6.354 since neither of my tachs work. Not just to get that signal on my nmea2000 network.....
It was way too easy. Just made a bracket that bolted to the front of the motor and epoxied two magnets on the balancer, and it can drive any tack. You only need the dakota if you want to adapt it to a W signal tach. I just bought a used Aetna tach, gauge only, and bench tested it. That needs no adapter and was PERFECTLY ACCURATE. I will be putting the Aetna at the lower helm.
Thanks!
No problem. Hopefully the info was helpful.
@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 Quite! My New Balmar alternator didn't come with a Tach output and I was wondering how I was going to resolve that issue. Now I have a good option.
@@billhooghuis6819 I would definately use a hall effect sensor and a couple of magnets. I just installed the Aetna tach and its really really accurate and stable.
I’m slightly confused here.
The multimeter showed 350.9 HZ on a fluke meter (it’s very accurate)so that is counting two pulses per revolution. So the rpm of the drill is 175.45 Rpm.
Something does not add up her.
You could also use a £5 arduino to convert the number of pulses ,if you wanted to save money.
Good eye..lol. When I hooked up the fluke I did it because I was expecting trouble and to be confused. I was thinking I might have to poke around with the meter a bit to figure out some things. But it worked right off the bat. So I never messed with the meter again. Its almost certain the Fluke is not set right. Its set to AC Hz. Come to find out the output of a hall effect is really a DC signal just passing as the magnet goes by. So I am thinking it was essentially reading what would be half of an AC wave. Again I did not mess with it because everything just worked. The tach output is accurate here. If you watch the next couple videos you will see that I actually used an Aetna Engineering tach with the hall effect and two magnets. And this is what went in the boat as well. I did not need the Dakota for the Aetna tach since it had a wide range of adjustments. I did use the Dakota to adapt the upper helm tach to use a new Faria analog on upper helm. The RPMs both upper and lower have all been checked and are very very accurate now. Probably more accurate than the tach sensor. The Aetna gauges are top notch. Check out the next couple videos regarding tachs. It came out pretty good on the final install of the boat and has been working flawlessly. Much much better than the W signal tach. Thanks for the response.
@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 that’s cool thanks for the reply. I will watch the rest of the videos very interesting thanks
@@paulmeynell8866 No problem. Thanks a bunch.
how many dakota adapters do you need for 4 tachometers upper and lower helms
2. Assuming you have 2 engines. You can split the output to upper and lower helm.
I have the bouncing RPM syndrome -based on what you said it's because the regulator is doing its thing - I read 14.8V when the bonce begins. Question - could I add a "load" to the system - say, 2 or 3 amps - where the regulator keeps the alternator charging and sending RPMs to the gauge?
Usually the lack of any signal at all is due regulator not charging after start. Bouncing is usually poor connection or erratic signal or the gauge its self. Try cleaning all contacts. You can try to load it a bit with lights etc but that may not fix the bouncing. If you have upper and lower tachs and the both do the same thing its likely a signal issue either alternator or wiring. If one tack works and the other bounces it's probablythe tach gauge. You can swap them to see if the bouncing follows the gauge.
@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 I have a sailboat with only one tach... a different speeds it "reads" and other speeds it goes to zero after bouncing a while... with this, I always thought it was (is) a bad connection and, though the alternator charges fine, after cleaning connections a few times as you suggest, was thinking of replacing it with a GM automotive alternator I have laying around... But then I don't know how to re-connect signal to the tach from the replacement.... ,groan>
@@paulusvandermeer3694 my guess would be the tach then. What size is it? The 3 and 3/8 larger size? You can have the one in the video. It appears to still work but its ugly..lol.
@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 It's the standard Westerbeke engine panel... Unfortunately the placement is such that I have very little room to pull is and access the back of the instruments... but with the boat on the dry I will add this to my winter projects after replacing the engine mounts.. LOL Working on boats, etc. Thanks for the offer - hopefully I can restore the one I have.
@@paulusvandermeer3694 Good deal. If you need any details from me dont hesitate to ask.
Do you know anywhere you can get the type of sensor that the tiny tach uses? Tiny tach doesn’t have replaceable batteries but there are other Chinese ones like the tiny tach but they don’t have that sensor.
Tiny tach is the only one that I have seen. I have a spare if it matches your size.
@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 You have a spare sensor? The kind that goes on the fuel line? I think they call it a transducer, forgot if that’s what you said in your vid. Would you sell it?
@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 I have a Chinese version of the tiny tach but need the sensor.
@Steven Penny i have the entire set up for sale with the box. Email me at alljonz at aol dot com.
What magnets did you use?
Give me a bit and ill post links in the description
ok...added sensors and magnets to the description
@@mvintrigue-trawlerdiy1101 Thanks! So what do you think the best way is to secure the magnets to the flywheel permanently?
@Bill Hooghuis i just got done installing this today in the trawler. I cleaned the balancer and used 5 minute epoxy. Seemed to be fine. A dab of 5200 would probably work too. But for maximum holding Hysol EA 9309