CNC Build Ep 12: Make the ULTIMATE CNC Spoilboard! Affordable, easy to build, incredibly versatile.
Vložit
- čas přidán 9. 07. 2024
- Hey CNC woodworkers!
This is my CNC spoilboard design. In this video I talk about the inspiration for my design, why I designed things the way I did, cost comparisons for other options, layout considerations, and then I go over the build process using my machine to make it! I have an Avid CNC, but the concepts are applicable to any wood CNC router. When I was building my spoilboard I had a lot of questions, and I hope this will help answer things, such as "how much spacing should you use for t-tracks?". Should you use T-tracks or T-nuts? A vacuum table or regular hold downs?
Download my CAD file and modify it to make your own ultimate CNC spoil board / waste board! My CAD file is done in Fusion 360, which is parametric and can easily be customized for any particular needs.
Download it for free here: www.corbinsworkshop.com/shop/...
The things I used:
* Cheap t-tracks: amzn.to/40DxRCp
* Affordable 20mm dogs: precisiondogs.us/products/pre...
* 3/8" downcut bit: amzn.to/3LOuLWq
* 1/4" downcut bit: amzn.to/48KHPWS
* Also try bits from 2L: www.2linc.com
More references:
* Avid CNC: www.avidcnc.com
* Avid CNC Spoilboard: www.avidcnc.com/support/instr...
***Update***: Jay Bates made a good point about gluing: once you wear through one layer you just glue on another top! So, you don't have to replace all three layers. Another good tip is to use a quality plywood for the bottom layer to get better grip with screws (compared to MDF). Thanks everyone for the comments and ideas!
Alternative products you can use that I mention in my video (but are expensive):
* Armor Tool Double Quick Track: armor-tool.com/product/48-dou...
* TSO Bench Dogs: tsoproducts.com/bench-dogs/
Check out my entire playlist for my CNC Build: • Avid CNC Build
References and inspiration for my design from Jay Bates:
* Jay Bates Spoilboard video: • Avid CNC Ep3: Vertical...
* Jay Bates CNC template file: jayscustomcreations.com/produ...
Thanks everyone!
Corbin Dunn
www.corbinstreehouse.com // Blog & Website
www.corbinsworkshop.com // CNC Files, Products, Woodworking Portfolio
CNC Build Episodes:
Ep 1: What CNC To Buy - • CNC Build Ep 1: What i...
Ep 2: Welded CNC Table - • CNC Build Ep 2: How to...
Ep 3: Making an Avid CNC Precise: • CNC Build Ep 3: How to...
Ep 4: How to Tram a CNC: • CNC Build Ep 4: How to...
Ep 5: Automatic Tool Changer: • CNC Build Ep 5: How to...
Ep 6: ATC Tool Rack Build - • CNC Build Ep 6: Automa...
Ep 7: ATC Setup in Mach 4 - • CNC Build Ep 7: Custom...
Ep 8: ATC Tool Heights - • CNC Build Ep 8: How to...
Ep 9: ATC Post Processor Setup - • CNC Build Ep 9: ATC Po...
Ep 10: 3D Printed Dust Boot - • CNC Build Ep 10: Print...
Ep 11: Improving the Avid CNC Table - • CNC Build Ep 11: Impro...
Ep 12: CNC Spoilboard - • CNC Build Ep 12: Make ...
Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:37 CNC Hold Down Methods
1:20 Spoilboard Design
5:24 Cost Comparison
6:22 Layout Considerations
8:31 The Build
16:55 Conclusion
#cncwoodworking #cnc #avidcnc #cncwoodworking
*** Some links are Amazon Affiliate links where I make a small commission at no cost to you if you make a purchase *** - Jak na to + styl
Howdy. Great job on your spoilboard. One thing often overlooked on my glue-down setup is replacing it. It's never replaced. Simply flatten one last time, glue another sheet, and use the machine file to recut the holes in the same spot. Never remove, always add. Good advantage of removing yours with screws though. I've not encountered a need for greater clearance under the gantry but for what you do you may. I often tell people the 2x4 scab boards to screw down to were unnecessary. I thought it would be easier than trying to align the captured nut slots but in reality, it's not.
Thanks Jay! That's a good point about the glue-down method -- I hadn't thought about just machining away the old, and then adding on another new on top. I think the glue-down method is way stiffer; I may try it when I have to add new layer. I super appreciate all your videos -- they are a big inspiration for me!
@@CorbinDunn As are your bowls and boxes. What you are doing in the CNC space is fascinating.
@@CorbinDunn Another big difference is all Jays stuff is paid for by sponsors, no out of pocket expense for him. Love his work and channel though.
What Jay said. If you can spare the extra height of one more MDF thickness then the top layer becomes completely sacrificial and replaceable.
Just followed your video to make my spoilboard! Thanks!
Awesome!
I love your stile ! I love your workshop ! GOD bless you ! 🙏🏼
Thanks!
thank you very much
No problem!
As soon I saw you cutting your t-tracks in half and putting them down with the space in the center, I immediately thought, your going to love the space for sliding hold-downs half the distance. And then you mentioned the perk for the space. highfive
We think alike! It was my original plan to do it this way, and I totally forgot until I had them installed.
Great video! I really like that you explain all your thinking behind. Really helpful! Thanks!
Thanks Anders, I appreciate you commenting - it encourages me to keep making more videos!
its great you are planning on doing a video on work offsets corbin, for some reason this aspect baffles me, even though i know it would make my work more efficient, still learning after 4 years of CNC. cheers from ireland
Cool! Hopefully I can simplify them. I have a few different methods for using them, depending on if I'm using VCarve or Fusion 360.
Well done Corbin
Thanks!
Creating a video on how to use offsets with Fusion 360 is a really good idea. I'm not sure I found the right process yet on my side and I couldn't find a lot of videos on that.
Regarding the spoilboard, I agree 3 sheets of MDF is too much. I chose to use 2 sheets but I glued them and it reduced a lot the flex I was having with only one sheet. The idea of adding perpendicular supports is really good, I will use it. I don't think gluing is a real problem because when I wanted to change the top layer, I just surfaced it several time and glued a new sheet on top of the old one. Instead of buying T-tracks, I used a T-track bit which works really well and allowed me to create vertical and horizontal tracks and it costs nothing. After 18 months of usage, I really think it's a good idea to have both directions because it allows the use of clamps that push materials perpendicularly to the track you are using.
Your videos are always very interesting
Yeah, that’s a good point about gluing it together and adding more strength! I should measure my vertical flex and see how bad it is with my setup.
I’ll definitely do some offset videos - it is so handy, and helps eliminate some errors (and can cause some others though).
It’s also good to hear that the pure MDF t-track works well! I think that is a good option.
@@CorbinDunn Also, I bought high quality MDF, very dense. It helps a lot.
I just installed something very similar! I added in removable sections at the front and rear for the rotary axis and vertical table.
Awesome! Yeah, removable sections are awesome...I've thought about plugging up the hole in the front until I need it, but so far I haven't gotten around to doing that.
This is helpful. I just got my Ultimate Bee setup and now planning out the spoil board. Thanks!
Super! Definitely take whatever ideas you think are the best and incorporate them into what you want in your design.
@@CorbinDunn I plan do do just that. I also like Eigen Designs approach to adding a sacrificial modular layer on too of the permanent spoil board.
@@mtnjak I hadn't seen the Eigen Designs spoilboard...I found his video, and he has a lot of great ideas! I like the threaded inserts..and that modular sacrificial spoilboard is another great idea. I may have to make one too. Thanks!
@@CorbinDunn yes. I think anytime I don't have to screw into, remove, and screw into again, by using inserts the surface is infinitely more lasting over time.
Great content!! I love your work!
Thanks so much!
Well done!!
Thanks man!
Nice job!
Thanks!
Great video! Have you found a cheaper option for bench dogs? I think its ridiculous to pay $35 for 2 bench dogs.
Thanks! I link to the dogs I use in the video description; a little bit cheaper. Precision dogs. You could also machine them out of a hardwood.
Corbin, curious why you didn't glue the slats between each T track. Now you have a bunch of screws pretty darn close to the table surface?
The short answer is: (1) To be able to remove and replace individual slats and (2) to be able to remove slats and remove the entire spoil board from the table.
Regarding #1: My thought was that I could replace just the worn ones, and not have to do the entire table. If I glue them in, then the only way to replace them would be to surface/machine them off, and glue another set back on top. Surfacing them completely off won't be possible..because as soon as I start to get close to the t-tracks (which they cover and help hold down), I would have to stop going any deeper. That's not too big a deal...and you could always just add another layer when they get worn away, and effectively go into a 3-layer system like Jay's design. Disadvantage of this is that it cuts down on your maximum z-travel. Advantage is that you don't have screws, which you could possibly hit! In practice, I almost entirely avoid cutting into my spoilboard, so I think glue might have been fine.
#2: I could have made the entire table removable by drilling/machining access holes for the main bolts. It'd be heavy. I'm also not sure if I ever will remove the entire table, based on how hard it would be to re-align and set it back up.
on top of baltic birch
Agreed why you would ever make a solid foundation with screws into MDF I have no idea. And not wood screws You need drywall screws.
That's an excellent point; all other sheet goods except MDF generally have better screw holding power.
I just use scrap plywood and a brad nailer
Cool, that works too! I know a lot of people like the plastic brads.