PCB exposure unit DIY
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- čas přidán 15. 03. 2016
- This video might be also helpful if you are interested working with mdf. Box is versatile so it can be used with other types projects too.
Main material is 20mm MDF. See www.instructables.com/id/PCB-E... for more info.
music : www.incompetech.com - Jak na to + styl
This video is proof of how when something matters to a person, that person could make miracles happen. This box is SO well finished, I literally thought it was from a store, or at least a factory prototype. Highly inspirational, the fact that you pushed it through and made it, it counts beyond measure, to me... I’m gonna get working on my recent project: shelves for a 7 foot tall 19” rack frame! I really think that you’ve demonstrated just how far our minds can push us. Absolutely motivational and incredible! Thanks!
Wo-ow. Thats just a perfect video. I admire people that are able to make their projects so perfectly, cleanly, and work-able.
I didn't know that wood can look like a metal too..
this is still one of the most wonderful DIY project I've ever seen up now, please upload new videos
Это просто шедевр! Такую работу не грех и похвалить! Самое главное, что очень нужная вещь, но купить её нигде невозможно. А здесь пожалуйста, вот она и даже лучше, чем могла бы быть!
Beautiful craftsmanship. And glad to see you still have all your fingers.
Excellent workmanship, I haven't enjoyed watching a video for a while
Actually just wrapped up making my first exposure unit when I found your video. Very nice job!
Great idee to glue the MDF to the hinge, thanks for sharing. Nice result...
wow! impressing workshop+tools! and I also like the product and skills certainly! 😉
extremely neat and professional great work
Well done! Congratulations, thank you for share your skills
Great job, you have a lot of talent!
Really good design I just built one on your design but put another set of LEDs in the lid to make double sided and made a vacuum Frame with square Aluminium tube and Mylar to suck down on the board but forgot about the power supply as both set of LEDs take 2 amps each also put relays in to switch lamps from Top, Bottom or both
Very, very nice work. Congratulations!
0:24 It's all about "safety firts" 😂 Nice Idea, thanks for the video 😊
Great woodwork. Not sure if your LEDs are cooled well being sticked to the plastic sheet. Also I would paint internals of the case into deeep black to avoid any reflected UV light to reach the exposed PCB.
Way better than any industrial or ready made one!!Give some details about circuit....Also share more such electronics related DIY stuff!!
You could do the same by finding (usually for free) and dismantling an old flatbed scanner (parallel-port ones from the 90s are pretty much useless nowadays). They already have the glass, the box, the cover, and the sponge: all you need to do is to remove everything from the inside and place the LED panel on the bottom.
you are a master of wood! My low budget variant is an old scanner housing made of plastic, inside are UV Tubes from a "Toaster" Ballasts are from dead energy safing Bulbs and Time makes a 555. It works too ;)
Nice and clean work, I liked it.
nice box but lacks of optical background:
1 to obtain the sharpest possible projection you must use a single point led (with or without collimating optics, otherwise you lower the etandue = making a lot of semishadows)
2 uv source has to have spectral characteristics matched to photoresist (in my experience very powerful but soft uv lamp doesnt polimerize the film well, but correct led works perfect even with low intensity (that was a must to success in 0.1/0.1mm traces with 50um film))
Any specs on the LED's looking to make something similar. I just want to make sure I am using the proper lights
Superbe réalisation,bravo !
Amazing job.
Beautiful wood working ...
Very nice craftsmanship. I was jealous until I saw your soldering ;p
Perhaps consider raising the LED panel so that it's right up under the glass and using quartz glass or some other UV transparent material. The light will be less spread out and more intense. Less diffusion means the light stays more columnar between the sheet with the PCB artwork and the photoresist, leading to sharper traces. Having the LEDs closer and using a glass that doesn't block as much UV will also shorten the exposure time and shorter exposure time will also lead to sharper traces.
Very nice DIY exposure unit
How well has this worked for PCB's? I'm not clear on whether 395-400nm is high enough energy for the task at hand?
Looks awesome!
Bacana, muito bem acabada ficou profissional.
Thanks for sharing. Great video.
Super skills!Very impressive!Quick and dirty!
If you call that "quick and dirty," I would like to see your stuff. This is WAY more attention to cosmetic details than I would even begin to put in. This is a GREAT project box for ANY purpose. Suitable for sale. Cheers!
If your not bothered by straight cuts, use the table saw in the first few minutes. The guide pushes to the left or his right when finishing a cut.
Very nicely done! As others have noted, an interlock switch in the lid to turn off the light and pause the Arduino would be good safety enhancements. I'd also test the LEDs to be sure they all work before cutting and installing them. So how well does it work? Can you make boards clean enough for 0.5mm runs and 0402 SMD parts with the box?
I haven't found UV LED strips with s/m 360nm.. so it won't be working efficiently. all the strips I've found around the Ali has s/m 395-405nm only. Please let me know if you find the ones.
good work,,,,either they r common leds or some special ultra violet?
You could use a case from a used scanner. This is much simpler and more rational. But your result is pleasing.
ottimo lavoro complimenti
amazing! please more of that!
Very nice !
From Brazil.
Very well built. I didn't catch a safety switch for the lid, though. I hope you fitted one. Not good to look at UV LEDs when running!
Yes you are right there is no safety switch. I only added blinking red light and "exposing" text to LCD panel to warn user (me).
No worse than UV disco Lights. Its not like that are tanning lamps or worse UV germicidal then an interlock would be needed for sure.
Yeah! Safety FIRTS (or farts?)! That's where this guy's bandsaw skills are from. Btw, the box came out great! Really nice!
just like pro ,nice
Awesome, dude!
Hi! I would like to know what kind of paint did you use to cover the box! and the wet sandig, too. thks!
Nice job.
Me podria desir los elrmento que usaste gracias soy jose de argentina
absolutly magnifique :)
Thank you for showing exposure box sir I learn about it how about my Patten the Lamp above the light show down 10 inches distance so process at the screen image lower part what time need to expose thnx again
Super work!!!!
If this would be a commercial product and I just watched how it was made, I would buy it.
Good work! Nice Video thank you :)
Sou do Brasil, quanto fica para você mandar para meu pais. Frete e custo da máquina?
Cuáles son los materiales que sw utilizaron en el proceso de elaboración de la insoladora y cuáles son las medidas de la misma
Looks pretty neat.But does it actually work?
Please provide guidance on how to adjust two trimmers. I am still debugging but my lcd backlight works but no text.
great job man. i just rushed to instructable to download sch. uploaded the code in uno.... done uploading, hope it will work.
NICE WORK
Great work , design is not easy
Good job
**super brother , I 'm your fan.**
Great Hats off to you
Fantastic!
Can I use this to cure powder coatings on MDF?
Very nice job.....
i'm your fan!
Nice great job
very nice job
please give the idea
how to make a UV EXPOSURE FOR POLYMER STAMP
Study how commercial ones work and then simplify the design. Make prototypes and learn from mistakes :)
Thank you for sharing this awesome video .. how long did it take you to make from start to finish total?
Great project dude!
Box itself takes around 10-15h. Painting and polishing takes longer because of drying times.
hi, tried to upload code to arduino nano, i got sketch uses 4398 bytes of the program storage space, maximum is 30720 bytes, how to upload please?
Hello! Awesome project! I am building something very similar (some differences since I started from scratch a while ago and just seeing this). I am wondering, since I am building this for photographic purposes, did you find you had hot spots on your exposures? How did you find the spacing and distance to glass for the LED's? Just a lot of testing?
Thanks!
Hi. Led distance from the glass is around 70mm. There's total of a 500 led with viewing angle of 120 degrees. My older exposing machine got almost same distance so I decided use same here. There might be some spots where UV is weaker. Also the glass might block some of the UV rays. I'm only exposing a small PCB with this one.
something like '3w star uv led 370nm' or so on ebay. 400nm is not enough (my resist glowed bright green at correct led). anything random even like tanning bed lamps made crap (+long exposure). correct led needs no more than few seconds (no more than 30 at all)
great
Show!!!!! Parabens!!!
Good job excellent
Please, what is the background music you are using?
Good job....
Such lovely fingers.
Ough.. Awesome project...
would you share the arduino program and the wiring... that perfect for my project, adjust timer using POT...
thanks before... :)
Try to use limit switch if uv light is not good for eyesIf not Skip that
Awesome!
There is no need to diffuse UV light?
I think there's no need for that. I have over 500 uv leds in there so the light will spread evenly. Exposure time is around 4 min.
You could link the lid switch to the Arduino which could pause the exposure timer while the lid is up. If you're making a lot of PCBs you may consider it. If you rely on the timer though and it's always off when you open it up again then not so bad but always nice to have safeguards. Plus I like to bevel all my edges using a router, otherwise very nicely made, video too.
Amazing job!!!! is there any chance that you share your schematics and wood sizes?
+lcm Thank you. I added technical info in my instructables site www.instructables.com/id/PCB-Exposure-Unit/
Nice :) very nice, me like it :) Oh about the magic smoke, you do know that all electrical devices work on gray smoke, and when that smoke exits the device, then device stops working. Its fundamental of electronics :) that gray smoke ;) It happens, those Chinese and their chinisium :)
very nicely done (Y)
woah! im normally not a safety nut. but cutting a bevel with the blade tilted toward the fence is just begging for a serious kickback accident. I know from experience, and i was lucky to get away with only a bruise from the wood hitting me.
please,Ask for the source of the leds ?
you could use an old scaner
There is only 1 thing to add to this PCB exposure unit: front-panel labels. Otherwise, it's amazing.
Awesome
Great vid! where did you get your UV LEDs
Great working! By the way, please feel free to get back to us, if you will need Smart High Power High Voltage UV Lamp Ballasts, reference at www.uvballastsupplying.com. Thanks and have a good day! :- )
Why the magic smoke? What went wrong?
cool bro 👍
Fantastic design, both mechanically and electronically, congrats.
But *COMPLETELY MISSING THE MOST IMPORTANT INFORMATION,* or I could not find it: where is the test petern of certain size realized, what are the results? *What is the minimum track width that can be reliably realised on this UV unit?*
This design is like a beautifull car from outside but we know nothing about it's performance.
Why did it smoke ?
Superb
Why did you use brass for power rails? Is there any advantage over copper?
No. I just had stiff brass rod available :).
Please send the circuit layout and arduino code and all details pls sir this is a good work i proud of you
Bad design due to regular [window] glass is about 50-70% (at most) transparent for UVA (320-400nm), those ones obviously used in your strips. At least you have 30% LEDs' power loss in the glass. And the thicker the glass, the more UV lost. I'd go with direct exposure with the LEDs mounted on top of the box, or at least used the UV-transparent glass, like acrylic or [coated] quartz glass.
It is your comment that is critical and bad. His design is excellent.
Do you not read his instructable. He is using a glass panel from inside the unit from an old scanner, which is not window glass. Your critical assumptions are all based on your false presumptions.
And this scanner is a UV scanner?
No it does not have to be, the glass on scanners is ultra clear low iron float glass which passes UV due to its clarity. Normal float glass has a slight green tinge which does not pass UV so easily.
ok... i get the whole "hobby thing", but.....photosensitive pcbs are not that light sensitive, and turning off the light with a switch, or even just pulling the plug works just fine....i made an exposure light with a roll of uv leds stuck onto cardboard.....maybe $15 for the whole thing? comon, guys ......leave the microcontrollers for things that really need them?
In the prototyping lab of my school we had a proper industrial double sided UV exposure unit, and yes, the photosensitive pcb's are very sensitive to light when you want good results it matters how long you had them in there, with every batch of pcb's we ordered we had to evaluate the proper exposire and etching times, often needing test batches of around 100 small sample pcb's with different trace and pad sizes. 5s more or less do make a big difference sometimes when you want to get down to 10-8mil
wow you can do that with mdf..