I think you are spot on and ready for some metal work. The body is squared up to the floor and you have loads of great measurements too. The only thing I would add is the body panels like doors the new and the old and the old ones to compare gaps, and thentrunk lid keep them installed to also verify gaps before permanently welding it together plus verifying side to side measurements. Looking good and ready to jump in.
Good show! A comment about bracing the body inside the passenger compartment. My ‘67 Camaro was a very rusted shell and I couldn’t be sure that it was solid enough for the body cart it went on. I did a square brace configuration inside the door jams from to rear and then across from one door to the other, front and rear. By the time I got to the point of making new sheetmetal fit, I was really struggling to make proper alignment of quarters and tailpanel. Perhaps welding the braces in when the car was so compromised was not the best decision. Your shell looks much better in that regard. Best of luck, I’ll be watching the progress!!👍
Nice Jim, Yes! BRACE IT! But also don't be surprised if your new floor may require you to adjust the rocker to rocker width a tad in or out to get the floor to fit just right so if you could plan for that in your bracing (maybe a telescoping affair on the bottom braces?) that would pay dividends for you in the long run. Also I found that my rockers wanted to run down hill about an 1/8" toward the rear just like yours which is not something you hear about, a lot so good confirmation there. Don't get too hung up on the rear height of that point on the Qtr Panel. You may need to clock that up or down a bit to (+1/2" max, but equal on both sides) to get your rear door gaps right. You are defiantly on the right track.
Yes, I would brace it and level it. I would also make a removable brace/bracket to connect to the firewall bolts and jig as well as the rockers. Keep it up and thanks for sharing!
Your video cleared up a mystery about where I should take measurements of my 68 camaro before I start my resto. I plan on building a jig similar to yours and you provided inspirtation to use it as a measuring datam. Using the bolts on the cowl to measure is brilliant as is using the cross bars to align with the jambs and rockers. If I can ask a favor, can you provide some measurements of the rood openings relative to where the a pillar meets the roof, as well as the hight from thr rocker to the drip rail. My roof was damaged and I am trying to determine if I need to move some metal and square things up in the a/b/c pillars. I have searched the net, and looked in the fisher manuals but no luck. Thanks and can't wait to see your progress
Thank you. Stay tuned, because I’m sure there will be more measurements to share. Email me some pictures or a diagram of the measurements you want and I would be happy to get them for you. Here is my email (nexgarageyt@gmail.com). Appreciate you watching 👍
Very nice with the leveling and all of the measurements. They will be helpful when rebuilding the car. Please be aware though that the reproduction sheet metal you may end up using will not necessarily line up exactly with your measurements. I did full quarters on both sides of my car, and the measurements where the quarter meets the top of the rocker panel in the jamb were not the same on both sides. I think that if you reassemble it looking at the overall picture of everything fitting and gapping well, you will be further ahead in the game. Just my 2 cents....
Excellent point. The measurements are more of a starting point to see where we are when putting it all back together. I am preparing for the after market parts not fitting perfectly (for what they cost, you think they would fit a little better). Appreciate the feed back and thanks for watching 👍
Cool video and lot of good prep work that will pay off in the long run. The bracing in the middle might be excessive and get in the way unless you actually see the body want to get out of square. Maybe put some bracing off the JIG coming around off the sides if really needed. take it out once the structure comes back in the car. It depends on how much you cut up. If you are doing a full floor the square tubing will be in the way, move it up top above the dash. The numbers are great but don't get too caught up in everything get it all really close and test fit external parts screwing as much as you can together then going back and welding in place that will help. Also I know you were going to section in the quarters, my opinion a full quarter will a lot easier then welding on that quarter panel especially as you already JIG up the car. You will save tons of body work down the road even if you are a great welder. I did a video on full quarter panel or quarter skins as I have done both multiple times and why I think for you the full quarter will be the best route. Maybe if you want keep the front door jamb on the quarter and weld that part in but I would do the quarter up to the roof line and then right around the trunk gutters. Good luck on the build really awesome project for you both.
Excellent feed back. The measurements were more of a reference to see where we are and make sure we’re not to far off when putting back together. I am not an great welder for sure, so I get what your saying about the full quarters. I will definitely check out you, videos on those. Thanks so much for the input. We really appreciate it 👍
The measurements I took for this video were just off off our car. I couldn’t find any factory measurements. I figured if I can get the replacement parts back close to my measurements, it should be good. I’m sure we will take more measurements each time we replace something. You can’t have to many measurements. Hope this answers your question and thank you for watching. ✌️
Hello JK it is my humble opinion that you are way over thinking your measurements and braces. The reason i am telling you this is whether you use Dynacorn, AMD or factory GM panels they are ALL just a little different. I am using a body cart in my restoration of my Highschool car. I do have it Squared, Centered and Leveled on the cart and it sets on a Leveled shop floor. I agree that this is important. Another important thing is to eliminate all your excessive weight. This will reduce stress on the body and allow you to have unnecessary braces. Iin which it looks like you have done. If you are replacing your floor pan or trunk pan i would measure the front frame and rear frame mounting dimensions. Rockers, Quarters you will need to work out your rough gap with the doors front fenders back on the car. Like i said earlier not all Sheetmetal is created equally. I haven't seen all of your videos yet and maybe you have discovered this already. Well, get to cutting and less talking and good luck on your project. If I can figure out how to send you pictures I will share them with you on how I approached it. Mark P
I think you are spot on and ready for some metal work. The body is squared up to the floor and you have loads of great measurements too. The only thing I would add is the body panels like doors the new and the old and the old ones to compare gaps, and thentrunk lid keep them installed to also verify gaps before permanently welding it together plus verifying side to side measurements. Looking good and ready to jump in.
Thank you. I see your point verifying both door gaps, never know with reproductions. Thanks for the feed back, this will definitely help.
Good show! A comment about bracing the body inside the passenger compartment. My ‘67 Camaro was a very rusted shell and I couldn’t be sure that it was solid enough for the body cart it went on. I did a square brace configuration inside the door jams from to rear and then across from one door to the other, front and rear. By the time I got to the point of making new sheetmetal fit, I was really struggling to make proper alignment of quarters and tailpanel. Perhaps welding the braces in when the car was so compromised was not the best decision. Your shell looks much better in that regard. Best of luck, I’ll be watching the progress!!👍
Shell is pretty good, so hopefully bracing will work out. Thanks for the feed back. Really appreciate it.👍
Nice Jim, Yes! BRACE IT! But also don't be surprised if your new floor may require you to adjust the rocker to rocker width a tad in or out to get the floor to fit just right so if you could plan for that in your bracing (maybe a telescoping affair on the bottom braces?) that would pay dividends for you in the long run. Also I found that my rockers wanted to run down hill about an 1/8" toward the rear just like yours which is not something you hear about, a lot so good confirmation there. Don't get too hung up on the rear height of that point on the Qtr Panel. You may need to clock that up or down a bit to (+1/2" max, but equal on both sides) to get your rear door gaps right. You are defiantly on the right track.
Excellent information. Thanks. I know you had a lot of bracing and basically wanted to confirm it was needed. Appreciate your comment.
Great job on getting the Bird leveled on the cart!!! Keep it up guys!!
Thank you. Figured it might be a good idea to level it up before tearing it down. Thanks for watching.
Yes, I would brace it and level it. I would also make a removable brace/bracket to connect to the firewall bolts and jig as well as the rockers. Keep it up and thanks for sharing!
Awesome feed back. I do have jigs for the firewall and rockers, but will add some bracing. Thanks for the suggestions. Really appreciate it 👍
Your video cleared up a mystery about where I should take measurements of my 68 camaro before I start my resto. I plan on building a jig similar to yours and you provided inspirtation to use it as a measuring datam. Using the bolts on the cowl to measure is brilliant as is using the cross bars to align with the jambs and rockers. If I can ask a favor, can you provide some measurements of the rood openings relative to where the a pillar meets the roof, as well as the hight from thr rocker to the drip rail. My roof was damaged and I am trying to determine if I need to move some metal and square things up in the a/b/c pillars. I have searched the net, and looked in the fisher manuals but no luck. Thanks and can't wait to see your progress
You should start everything from the Firewall, but it also depends on how bad your car is.
Thank you. Stay tuned, because I’m sure there will be more measurements to share. Email me some pictures or a diagram of the measurements you want and I would be happy to get them for you. Here is my email (nexgarageyt@gmail.com). Appreciate you watching 👍
Very nice with the leveling and all of the measurements. They will be helpful when rebuilding the car. Please be aware though that the reproduction sheet metal you may end up using will not necessarily line up exactly with your measurements. I did full quarters on both sides of my car, and the measurements where the quarter meets the top of the rocker panel in the jamb were not the same on both sides. I think that if you reassemble it looking at the overall picture of everything fitting and gapping well, you will be further ahead in the game. Just my 2 cents....
Excellent point. The measurements are more of a starting point to see where we are when putting it all back together. I am preparing for the after market parts not fitting perfectly (for what they cost, you think they would fit a little better). Appreciate the feed back and thanks for watching 👍
Cool video and lot of good prep work that will pay off in the long run. The bracing in the middle might be excessive and get in the way unless you actually see the body want to get out of square. Maybe put some bracing off the JIG coming around off the sides if really needed. take it out once the structure comes back in the car. It depends on how much you cut up. If you are doing a full floor the square tubing will be in the way, move it up top above the dash. The numbers are great but don't get too caught up in everything get it all really close and test fit external parts screwing as much as you can together then going back and welding in place that will help. Also I know you were going to section in the quarters, my opinion a full quarter will a lot easier then welding on that quarter panel especially as you already JIG up the car. You will save tons of body work down the road even if you are a great welder. I did a video on full quarter panel or quarter skins as I have done both multiple times and why I think for you the full quarter will be the best route. Maybe if you want keep the front door jamb on the quarter and weld that part in but I would do the quarter up to the roof line and then right around the trunk gutters. Good luck on the build really awesome project for you both.
Excellent feed back. The measurements were more of a reference to see where we are and make sure we’re not to far off when putting back together. I am not an great welder for sure, so I get what your saying about the full quarters. I will definitely check out you, videos on those. Thanks so much for the input. We really appreciate it 👍
This is a good idea but how do you know what the original factory measurments are? Is there a build sheet that has the info?
The measurements I took for this video were just off off our car. I couldn’t find any factory measurements. I figured if I can get the replacement parts back close to my measurements, it should be good. I’m sure we will take more measurements each time we replace something. You can’t have to many measurements. Hope this answers your question and thank you for watching. ✌️
Hello JK it is my humble opinion that you are way over thinking your measurements and braces.
The reason i am telling you this is whether you use Dynacorn, AMD or factory GM panels they are ALL just a little different.
I am using a body cart in my restoration of my Highschool car. I do have it Squared, Centered and Leveled on the cart and
it sets on a Leveled shop floor. I agree that this is important. Another important thing is to eliminate all your excessive weight.
This will reduce stress on the body and allow you to have unnecessary braces. Iin which it looks like you have done.
If you are replacing your floor pan or trunk pan i would measure the front frame and rear frame mounting dimensions.
Rockers, Quarters you will need to work out your rough gap with the doors front fenders back on
the car. Like i said earlier not all Sheetmetal is created equally. I haven't seen all of your videos yet and maybe you have discovered
this already. Well, get to cutting and less talking and good luck on your project.
If I can figure out how to send you pictures I will share them with you on how I approached it.
Mark P
Thank you for all the information. I appreciate it. 👍
Time to get started brother if you need anything you have my number I'm very proud of you great video
Thank you. Appreciate you being available for needed answers as we move forward on this. 👍