It's nice to see somebody doing it correct, I have never seen anybody waterproof the pre-slope but that's cool. I don't think you need that much silicone around the bolts the bolts are already in the tray of the bottom piece of the drain, X-15 generally works better for the top of the bottom piece of the drain and underneath the pan liner only. Great video
I always pre slope under the liner but I'm not totally sold that water will actually penitrate and make its way to the actual weep holes. I do think some water will get in around the drain and weep out but I only think a little might get under mud bed and if that little bit does I just don't think it can freely travel with mud above it. Let's say there was an air gap between the liner and mud bed, then yes I think water can travel down to weep, but there is no gap and I find it hard to believe that just a little water can travel like that with only 1/4 per foot... not obviously if the entire shower base was submerged and everything was totally saturated, then I think it works like that. Every rip out I have ever done without a pre slope was never saturated, they were either dry or damp and when damp it wasn't enough that water could actually flow....I still like being safe and correct so I do it, but just not sure if a slightly damp mud bed moves water underneath
Water always travel the path of least resistance. I agree some pans are wet and some dry. I removed well over 100 showers never had one with the pre slope. Most important is to tile the shower floor first and grout it and then tile the walls and curb.
@@simonproatl i absolutely do the same, definitely do shower floor tile and grout , then do walls. I think its so wrong when guys come in and knock out walls (all the way to liner) then do dry pack and shower floor. You know its just a matter of time before water drips down wall and into mud and many do that crap...
Nice. Seems like a lot of variables can go wrong and cause a leak in a traditional mud pan... I know if done properly it's fine but we all know finding someone reliable these days for Reno's and builds is few and far between
It's nice to see somebody doing it correct, I have never seen anybody waterproof the pre-slope but that's cool. I don't think you need that much silicone around the bolts the bolts are already in the tray of the bottom piece of the drain, X-15 generally works better for the top of the bottom piece of the drain and underneath the pan liner only. Great video
If the bottom part of the drain is slightly out of level the water might leak out.
I always pre slope under the liner but I'm not totally sold that water will actually penitrate and make its way to the actual weep holes. I do think some water will get in around the drain and weep out but I only think a little might get under mud bed and if that little bit does I just don't think it can freely travel with mud above it. Let's say there was an air gap between the liner and mud bed, then yes I think water can travel down to weep, but there is no gap and I find it hard to believe that just a little water can travel like that with only 1/4 per foot... not obviously if the entire shower base was submerged and everything was totally saturated, then I think it works like that. Every rip out I have ever done without a pre slope was never saturated, they were either dry or damp and when damp it wasn't enough that water could actually flow....I still like being safe and correct so I do it, but just not sure if a slightly damp mud bed moves water underneath
Water always travel the path of least resistance. I agree some pans are wet and some dry. I removed well over 100 showers never had one with the pre slope. Most important is to tile the shower floor first and grout it and then tile the walls and curb.
@@simonproatl i absolutely do the same, definitely do shower floor tile and grout , then do walls. I think its so wrong when guys come in and knock out walls (all the way to liner) then do dry pack and shower floor. You know its just a matter of time before water drips down wall and into mud and many do that crap...
Nice. Seems like a lot of variables can go wrong and cause a leak in a traditional mud pan... I know if done properly it's fine but we all know finding someone reliable these days for Reno's and builds is few and far between
I agree :)
How much gap between plywood and bottom of drain IE: thickness of preslope at the drain?? TY
1/4" to 1/2"
What kind of mortar do you use for the pre slope?
Sakrete Pre Blended 60-lb S Mortar Mix
MAPEI 4-to-1 Mud Bed Mix 55-lb
Sakrete Sand mix/topping and bedding mix
Do you need a liner if your presloping on concrete slab?
Yes