Ive put back together a small engine and didn't know all this stuff was so important. Its amazing how much detail there is in machining and building a motor. Thanks for making videos on it, i appreciate master craftsmen like you doing their thing.
Through the years , my 82 years, I have see things all over the place. I have built some and threw some together. Some times the quickies ran much better than one that had lots of time put into it. And I have been to Dallas and back.
Ive learned critical tecniques and now know what machinery is necassassry by watching your engine rebuilding videos. Like this video it appears the main caps were belt sanded unsquare and not with main cap grinder. Grinding the main caps square and equal thinkess is critical before line bore or line honing. Think you sir.
I would like to have seen the block being placed in the line bore machine to understand how its dialed in before honing/machining. You no doubt have seen a lot of shoddy work and know what to look for. Great job !
Nice work, I sold my house up here on Long Island and I bought a house in Pickens County South Carolina, I told my wife, this man lives very close to where we’re buying a house. I could tell by your accent. And son of a gun you’re not too far ha ha ha ha anyway have a good day.
I do wonder if part of the problem is the aluminum blocks finally taking a set after a bunch of heat cycles. I try to make notes of any strange main or cam bearing wear on disassembly. If you have one weird worn cam bearing in an aluminum ls block, chances are, the new cam bearing in that hole is gonna need a little attention
Something I have wondered and although it makes sense to me. I need to ask. Line honing uses a heavy mandrel. And no weight is used to counter the weight. So gravity is a factor. Yet cylinder honing is usually vertical. You did cover it while I started typing this. Because main caps are the surfaces usually machined/ground. Could it be a better practice to invert the cylinder block and hone that way?. I'm asking because I saw an Issue on Nicks Garage where the mains were bored which moved the crank centerline towards the cam journal. He used a ton of different main seals and couldn't stop it from leaking. He even reverted to a rope seal. I believe he ended up having to get the customer a new block. I know that's the way it's done. But it seems like vertical honing like some hydraulic cylnders are done would be a better way. Or an adjustable linear slide on the flywheel side to minimize down force. I know. It's a nuts thought. But still. Your bore checks always turn out great.
If its the episode i watched,he sanded a far amount off the seal cap.I would have thought doing that the cap wd b slightly egg shape but apparently that was an oldschool fix.
If you back off the hardware and just lightly retighten on the "big" caps, you'll find the hone removes next to nothing compared to the torqued caps. It's a PITA with the 6 bolt caps, but it will allow you to open up the housings you want to without removing more than a tenth or so on the loosened ones. Nice descriptive video.
It must be kinda scary going into someone else's work, for fear of what you might find. Luckily the mains weren't fubar'ed. Looking forward to the next video in this series.
Those blocks were made on equipment that I am familiar with they were diamond reamed on the block honing machine same for the camshaft but all that depends on the prior boring machine. The diamond reamer is a amazing tool but it can only follow the existing bore the other thing you have to realize when a machine is purchased there's many specifications that must be met one of the most important is time way back when I installed and serviced those machines you have 30 seconds to do whatever it is you're going to do with that operation. Thirty seconds.....
Years ago I had a quad 4 and my son bottomed out so hard and shattered the cast Aluminum oil pan he drove it home and he barely made it to the yard and I was asleep and he woke me up and told me what happened and I said nobody got hurt and you didn't tear up anything but the car I said ok we'll talk about it when I wake up. He had spun a rod and a main bearings I rebuilt the engine I filed the bad caps and the head with a great big file and cleaned it with a file card and that engine ran great
Can I get your opinion? If you go to a machine shop for the first time what are the signs to look out for do you don’t make the mistake of using a shop that doesn’t know what there doing I know you can’t predict shops good or bad but what can the average Joe look out for
I like your channel. Very good stuff. Regarding the line honing and that +.001 oversize journal on the end. Is there any adjustment on the honing tool itself, is there any way to maybe put some bias to cut heavy on the tight bore, but less pressure on the loose bore? Kind of straighten it out?
The crankshaft itself before it hits the tape polisher should be within 12 microns total tolerance everywhere. It's sad they have wonderful grinding machines that hold form and size like no tomorrow but then they go to the damn tape polishing machine it's only supposed to remove the dross, microscopic surface burs the wheel leaves they will purposely set the grinders to run big by as much as .003inch if I happened to be coming through and saw that I would throw a damn fit like they give a damn. Funny the guys at Flint would tell me what poor job some of the other manufacturers did for instance Macimex but I can tell you Macimex made a better crank overall 15:30 . You have to understand the thinking of companies like GM the blocks are cast at one of three shops then sent to one of the other two to be machined. No shop finishes what they begin. All part of that JIT mentality. Ford is no different except their cranks are made out of garbage if they did not go through the fillet rolling machine they fail in hot test. GM makes the finest crank in the industry World engine the same, thats dodge and all korean manufacturers.
Too many people out there perfectly willing to do work on other people's stuff when they have no idea what is right or wrong. Keeps you busy I guess though.
You're a top-notch investigator.... so can you expect a block to be correct from the manufacturer? You're identifying multiple processes but a lack of proper standards -n- methods to come off with a quality end product? And belt sanding can't offer any good control over a surface, I learned all that watching people use them in antique restoration & in the wrong hands you'll see the damage....lol, even in good hands the evidence is there. I'm waiting on this series now. peace
Instead of using a belt sander couldnt you use an end mill to cut them down? The grinder will do better work and leave a smoother finish but you are still clamping your workpiece in a vise. Once you are doing one, it doesnt seem like four more would be a big deal.
Nice timing had a inline 6 recently line bore and honed , .0005 tight one end .0035 over the other end had it Rectified by enough machine shop. The motor is like a chevy 6 gear driven cam , the crankshaft moved so much that cam gear bound up more work, rear seal leaks .in court how to recover costs live in the fast lane Kit from down under
People these damn sanding machines it's all uncontrolled metal removal. Any amount of quality you try to build in is gone tolerances, form -geometry all out the window.
Thanks for putting this video together and showing the line bore set up and process. Automotive Machining is very fascinating
Glad you enjoyed it!
I feel your frustration, just remember, you can chase perfection but will never catch it...But by chasing perfection you can achieve excellence.....
Ive put back together a small engine and didn't know all this stuff was so important. Its amazing how much detail there is in machining and building a motor. Thanks for making videos on it, i appreciate master craftsmen like you doing their thing.
Glad it helped!
It's amazing that manufacturers can pump out engines but it takes real tradesmen to produce high quality work.
Often, wondered about the aluminum block, steel main cap situation. Thank you, for the great explanation! Thumbs up, as usual.
Thanks for watching!
Through the years , my 82 years, I have see things all over the place.
I have built some and threw some together.
Some times the quickies ran much better than one that had lots of time put into it.
And I have been to Dallas and back.
Ive learned critical tecniques and now know what machinery is necassassry by watching your engine rebuilding videos. Like this video it appears the main caps were belt sanded unsquare and not with main cap grinder. Grinding the main caps square and equal thinkess is critical before line bore or line honing. Think you sir.
Glad it's helping
This is the video of yours I have been trying to find explaining how the mandrel works. Wish you were in Oklahoma for work. Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
I would like to have seen the block being placed in the line bore machine to understand how its dialed in before honing/machining. You no doubt have seen a lot of shoddy work and know what to look for. Great job !
Dang this guy is good. Great video
Tyvm
Nice work, I sold my house up here on Long Island and I bought a house in Pickens County South Carolina, I told my wife, this man lives very close to where we’re buying a house. I could tell by your accent. And son of a gun you’re not too far ha ha ha ha anyway have a good day.
Yep , Pickens is a hour up the rd, welcome
THAT IS THE BEST EXPENATON OF ALIGN HONING I HAVE EVER SEEN ON CZcams!!!
Ty!
Glad I found you.
Great content! Keep it up
Welcome aboard!
Belt sanding caps is criminal 😂
@@richardslaby8527 💯
I do wonder if part of the problem is the aluminum blocks finally taking a set after a bunch of heat cycles. I try to make notes of any strange main or cam bearing wear on disassembly. If you have one weird worn cam bearing in an aluminum ls block, chances are, the new cam bearing in that hole is gonna need a little attention
Great job thanks for sharing !!
Thanks for watching!
Thanks for sharing ur valuable knowledge with us Daniel, i appreciate u
I appreciate that!
Thanks for this video, so you cut the caps and remove from the caps more or less. Keeps the centerline of the crank from getting too high.
I have been wanting to know more about this process. Very good video! Thanks!
Cornbread 😆 great information thank you.
Our pleasure!
Something I have wondered and although it makes sense to me. I need to ask. Line honing uses a heavy mandrel.
And no weight is used to counter the weight. So gravity is a factor. Yet cylinder honing is usually vertical.
You did cover it while I started typing this.
Because main caps are the surfaces usually machined/ground. Could it be a better practice to invert the cylinder block and hone that way?.
I'm asking because I saw an Issue on Nicks Garage where the mains were bored which moved the crank centerline towards the cam journal. He used a ton of different main seals and couldn't stop it from leaking. He even reverted to a rope seal.
I believe he ended up having to get the customer a new block. I know that's the way it's done.
But it seems like vertical honing like some hydraulic cylnders are done would be a better way.
Or an adjustable linear slide on the flywheel side to minimize down force.
I know. It's a nuts thought. But still. Your bore checks always turn out great.
3/10 of 0.001 is very little. Not enough to affect main seals.
If its the episode i watched,he sanded a far amount off the seal cap.I would have thought doing that the cap wd b slightly egg shape but apparently that was an oldschool fix.
Cool video i never seen how they line bored a block thanks buddy
Looks good! Hello from TEXAS!
Hey, thanks!
Thanks Daniel, More knowledge!!
Another great episode!!!
Ty
If you back off the hardware and just lightly retighten on the "big" caps, you'll find the hone removes next to nothing compared to the torqued caps. It's a PITA with the 6 bolt caps, but it will allow you to open up the housings you want to without removing more than a tenth or so on the loosened ones. Nice descriptive video.
Not making in fun of you, but your strong American Accent makes your videos so entertaining, including your expertise and knowledge
As an American from the north he sounds strange to me too
It actually helps me pay attention lol
Nice vid. Greetings from amsterdam
Hello there!, thank u for watching
It must be kinda scary going into someone else's work, for fear of what you might find. Luckily the mains weren't fubar'ed. Looking forward to the next video in this series.
Those blocks were made on equipment that I am familiar with they were diamond reamed on the block honing machine same for the camshaft but all that depends on the prior boring machine.
The diamond reamer is a amazing tool but it can only follow the existing bore the other thing you have to realize when a machine is purchased there's many specifications that must be met one of the most important is time way back when I installed and serviced those machines you have 30 seconds to do whatever it is you're going to do with that operation.
Thirty seconds.....
Love the video
Question is could they solved there problems with different bearings shells or maybe they wrong ones in beginning
Yes, but... the bore to small pinches the parting line in and that isn't good
Years ago I had a quad 4 and my son bottomed out so hard and shattered the cast Aluminum oil pan he drove it home and he barely made it to the yard and I was asleep and he woke me up and told me what happened and I said nobody got hurt and you didn't tear up anything but the car I said ok we'll talk about it when I wake up. He had spun a rod and a main bearings I rebuilt the engine I filed the bad caps and the head with a great big file and cleaned it with a file card and that engine ran great
Can I get your opinion? If you go to a machine shop for the first time what are the signs to look out for do you don’t make the mistake of using a shop that doesn’t know what there doing I know you can’t predict shops good or bad but what can the average Joe look out for
Clean, well organized, and the owner seems to have a good plan on how to process your job, also talk to people they have done work for,
@@powellmachineinc3179 thank you great advise
I like your channel. Very good stuff. Regarding the line honing and that +.001 oversize journal on the end. Is there any adjustment on the honing tool itself, is there any way to maybe put some bias to cut heavy on the tight bore, but less pressure on the loose bore? Kind of straighten it out?
Zero is the minimum dimensions so +.001 is good, the # 1 bore was .0007" over the min
The crankshaft itself before it hits the tape polisher should be within 12 microns total tolerance everywhere.
It's sad they have wonderful grinding machines that hold form and size like no tomorrow but then they go to the damn tape polishing machine it's only supposed to remove the dross, microscopic surface burs the wheel leaves they will purposely set the grinders to run big by as much as .003inch if I happened to be coming through and saw that I would throw a damn fit like they give a damn.
Funny the guys at Flint would tell me what poor job some of the other manufacturers did for instance Macimex but I can tell you Macimex made a better crank overall 15:30 .
You have to understand the thinking of companies like GM the blocks are cast at one of three shops then sent to one of the other two to be machined.
No shop finishes what they begin.
All part of that JIT mentality.
Ford is no different except their cranks are made out of garbage if they did not go through the fillet rolling machine they fail in hot test.
GM makes the finest crank in the industry World engine the same, thats dodge and all korean manufacturers.
Big D, do you ever ask the owner why they didn't get you to do all the work?
They purchased it before they new us
@@powellmachineinc3179 Roger.
If you settle for second best you will always get it. Love the videos🦘
I had never seen that type of hone. Been in valve shops for 35 years, so hones were for cylinders. Interesting. Is it a Sunnen?
It's sunnen mandrels, but a serv-equip machine (part of winona van norman)
Wow I can't imagine what happens when someone puts the main caps on a belt sander. Could you let it go if a main bearing only has 0.001 clearance.
Too many people out there perfectly willing to do work on other people's stuff when they have no idea what is right or wrong. Keeps you busy I guess though.
Alternate method….maybe?
To counter the weight of the mandrel…how bought mounting the engine vertically?
You're a top-notch investigator.... so can you expect a block to be correct from the manufacturer? You're identifying multiple
processes but a lack of proper standards -n- methods to come off with a quality end product? And belt sanding can't offer
any good control over a surface, I learned all that watching people use them in antique restoration & in the wrong hands
you'll see the damage....lol, even in good hands the evidence is there. I'm waiting on this series now. peace
Instead of using a belt sander couldnt you use an end mill to cut them down? The grinder will do better work and leave a smoother finish but you are still clamping your workpiece in a vise. Once you are doing one, it doesnt seem like four more would be a big deal.
Nice timing had a inline 6 recently line bore and honed , .0005 tight one end .0035 over the other end had it Rectified by enough machine shop.
The motor is like a chevy 6 gear driven cam , the crankshaft moved so much that cam gear bound up more work, rear seal leaks .in court how to recover costs live in the fast lane
Kit from down under
Sometimes they are just plain worn-out, throwing good money into junk.
@@robertklein1316bearings are replaceable wear items. No need to throw anything away.
Was it originally timed with a chain or belt?
Question, wouldn’t it be better to address the cap surface before the line bore?
Yes
When is the next video on this gen v lt1?
Not sure, probably a week or 2
People these damn sanding machines it's all uncontrolled metal removal.
Any amount of quality you try to build in is gone tolerances, form -geometry all out the window.
Yup
i have a 6he1 engine i free all the main bolt and conrod and why engine still tight
why cly bore does shink
hi i need good phone number i need cam regrind for a ls-1 5.3 im building thanks don molnar engs
All our contact information is on our website
Powellmachineinc.com
Camera guy needs to be a little more centered. Looking at your hand instead of the bore gauge. 🙂