Anyone questioning the cost of reconditioning just needs to see a few of your videos and the machinery used, the precision required to understand costs. Thankyou for your time.
Very nice job Daniel. That should work real good. What spring pressure you run on the pressure feed on the mandrel? I usually run about 3. I did not know where you run with those caps. Take care, Ed.
Just asking, when line honing, why didn't you torque the oil pump that you're gonna run on the rear cap? Doesn't it pull (distort) the #5 cap when it's torqued down AND then checked w/the pump torqued down? Real nice informative video! Thanks
That is intresting, wondering if you count the number of strokes of the honing bar when honing. No doubt that takes a lot of experence to sneak up on the clearence you want. This is a great video
OLÁ. Estou impressionado com a Vossa falta de conhecimento Técnico de Retificação de alojamento de mancais e ferramentais de precisão. ABRAÇOS...Roberto Udo Krapf
Hi Dan, never done this operation so I really do not know; just curious as to the wear of the stones and do you need to change as a set? Thank you for showing these videos!
hey guys which way would a main cap walk if it did side to side or front to back and i have a deep register 4bolt main block but no dowls on the mains good or bad, thanks guys love the channel
Do you do anything differently if the caps are harder than the cast iron block? The way line honing is done it would appear difficult to get all five mains the same size.
We never drop the mandrel, I do set it down and always on the aluminum guide shoes, and there is a bracket with rubber that the end set's on. Ty for watching
Why isn't line boring good enough or just plain better than line honing crank mains? How is line honing going to straighten out parallelism between the cam tunnel and the crank mains? I don't believe a cross hatched finish on crank mains makes any difference. I realize the fixture shown below takes longer but isn't this a better way to go for someone who cares about precision and reducing friction? czcams.com/video/qsHcxUkT1N0/video.htmlfeature=shared
@powellmachineinc3179 Honing isn't more accurate. A single point turning tool is more accurate in providing location. Honing does, however, leave a superior surface finish. I fail to see why a quality bored surface finish isn't good enough to support a split oil bearing.
It's a fair question. If you aren't willing to try and answer it than STFU. I was a CNC machinist for 25 years. I did my best to answer his legitimate question. There is no such thing as a stupid question.
It's good to know there's still some people thats about doing things right .
Tyvm
Very nice work and informative
Thank you for viewing!
Quality work sir. Quality is so much better than quantity.
Anyone questioning the cost of reconditioning just needs to see a few of your videos and the machinery used, the precision required to understand costs. Thankyou for your time.
Talk about precision, thanks for showing us.
Ty for watching!
Love watching your videos it is great to see how machine work is performed
Nice work.
Thank you!!
Looks like with the difference in hardness between the steel caps and the cast bock that the block would hone faster than the caps.
Yea, it takes time and low pressure, Aluminum blocks are tricky also
Very nice job Daniel.
That should work real good.
What spring pressure you run on the pressure feed on the mandrel?
I usually run about 3.
I did not know where you run with those caps.
Take care, Ed.
I keep the pressure pretty light or it will make heat , I'm probably about the same as you, I really appreciate it! Thank you!
How do you compensate for gravity and the hone removing more at the bottom, thus moving the crank centerline closer to the cam?
Mike
Just asking, when line honing, why didn't you torque the oil pump that you're gonna run on the rear cap? Doesn't it pull (distort) the #5 cap when it's torqued down AND then checked w/the pump torqued down? Real nice informative video! Thanks
I prefer the bore gauges that read in .0001 of a thousands.
Yes, I agree
That is intresting, wondering if you count the number of strokes of the honing bar when honing. No doubt that takes a lot of experence to sneak up on the clearence you want. This is a great video
Yep, I count
Looks like your only running 8 stones am I seeing that correctly?
OLÁ. Estou impressionado com a Vossa falta de conhecimento Técnico de Retificação de alojamento de mancais e ferramentais de precisão. ABRAÇOS...Roberto Udo Krapf
Hi Dan, never done this operation so I really do not know; just curious as to the wear of the stones and do you need to change as a set? Thank you for showing these videos!
They last a really long time, I have on changed stones and guides 2 times in 10 years
hey guys which way would a main cap walk if it did side to side or front to back and i have a deep register 4bolt main block but no dowls on the mains good or bad, thanks guys love the channel
Generally front to back, dowels aren't necessary, most of the time the tune up causes the walk.
Do you do anything differently if the caps are harder than the cast iron block? The way line honing is done it would appear difficult to get all five mains the same size.
Na, it actually all works out
Does the billet caps not require the oil pump to bolted in place? Would you recommend it being bolted and torqued for factory caps?
We normally would yes on bbc it doesn't effect it very much at all
We're did you get the billet caps from? We're they spayed too? Any XL shirts??
Xl shirts, yes, no they are not splayed,
Does the block side ever need to be decked if they are that far out of round?
Generally we don't, as we wouldn't want to move the crank centerline up, but there are instances where we would trim the block side .
Would not an all out race engine be align honed with torque plates on both the heads and mains ???
No... it doesn't affect the mains at all
What model line hone is that?? Looks like a modified Sunnen CH100.......
Serv-Equip.
I'm here because the machine shop I went to did not line hone,
A lot of the factory truck BBC have fretting on the main caps
Do you like those Gen V/VI blocks?
Not particularly
How did you do the rough line bore first? Bridgeport?
@@mback12000 we let another shop rough bore with there cnc
does this then require oversized bearings ? id imagine ??
No we make it std size
If you think good machine work is expensive, see how expensive it is if you get it wrong. You get what you pay for.
those stones must be strong .......being dropped on the cabinet like that....good work tho
We never drop the mandrel, I do set it down and always on the aluminum guide shoes, and there is a bracket with rubber that the end set's on. Ty for watching
Daniel, for this uneducated, but really interested guy, how is that system set up to assure the hone is dead center in the journals?
Why isn't line boring good enough or just plain better than line honing crank mains? How is line honing going to straighten out parallelism between the cam tunnel and the crank mains? I don't believe a cross hatched finish on crank mains makes any difference. I realize the fixture shown below takes longer but isn't this a better way to go for someone who cares about precision and reducing friction?
czcams.com/video/qsHcxUkT1N0/video.htmlfeature=shared
We hone the mains because it's much more accurate and the finish is better
@powellmachineinc3179 Honing isn't more accurate. A single point turning tool is more accurate in providing location. Honing does, however, leave a superior surface finish. I fail to see why a quality bored surface finish isn't good enough to support a split oil bearing.
I don't get how line honing doesn't make the crank uncentered or crooked. It's just free floating.
This is why people like you don’t do machine work
I believe the hone just follows the bore that's already been machined square.
It's a fair question. If you aren't willing to try and answer it than STFU. I was a CNC machinist for 25 years. I did my best to answer his legitimate question. There is no such thing as a stupid question.