setting zero valve lash the easy way hydraulic lifters
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- čas přidán 13. 05. 2018
- This applys to sbc, bbc, and up to the 90's LT1 engine. This is not applicable to the LS engines.
In this video I have already installed the hydraulic lifters, pushrods, and rockers. Now we are going to set the valves to zero lash, without having the engine set to any certain point. You can do this without having the valves, lifters or cam in a certain positition. Just keep checking for zero lash on all valves making a quarter turn between checks. You will need 2 full revolutions on the crank to make 1 revolution of the cam. Once done you can set your lifter preload to maufactuer specs, and lock them down depending on your set up. This is on 7/16 20 rocker studs. One full revolution on rocker nut = .050, so addtional half turn gave me .025 preload on hydraulic lifter.
If you have 3/8 24 studs half a turn will equal .021
If you are running solid lifters you will need a feeler guage set to set your valve lash. There is no preload on a solid lifter.
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(Thank you Mike) The Disgruntled Mechanic
/ @thedisgruntledmechanic - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Just watched another video by someone named Ken who taught the exact same technique. You're also making it W-A-Y too complicated. Most shop manuals will show that if you put the engine on #1 TDC, you can adjust half the valves, then rotate engine ONE turn to put sister piston (the one that comes to TDC at the same time as #1) on TDC and adjust the other half of the valves. On SBC engines, go to #1 TDC and adjust exhaust valves 1,3,4,8; intake valves 1,2,5,7. Rotate to #6 TDC and adjust remaining valves: exhaust 2,5,6,7 and intake 3,4,6,8. Also, as you reach zero lash, go ahead and turn down the rocker arm 1/2 to 3/4 turn (hydraulic lifters only) before going to the next valve. Should be able to do this in under 5 minutes. It doesn't get any simpler!
Thanks for that info, I will pin it.
I have a question about that shop manual. Does that apply to aftermarket cams with higher lift and cam overlap? I'm just a Diy'er and figured this would work for my application.
DIY Misfit "Mechanic" It doesn’t matter how big the cam, as long as it is a hydraulic lifter can.
May i have you send me this information to my email of your method? Yeud619@gmail.com i cannot copy paste your instructions.
Most “shop” manuals are not covering performance applications! The shop manual method does work for stock applications. A hardcore performance engine builder will adjust one valve at a time with a degree wheel with the cam lobe being 180 degrees of cam rotation from max lobe lift. This ensures you are in the middle if the cam lobe base circle. I prefer doing it the W A Y hard method to ensure it is done correctly. Performance cams have much longer durations and you want to be sure the lifter is on the base circle.
Thanks so much...super simple for a guy that knows enough to be dangerous around a motor. I’m setting the lash as we speak. Appreciate the share and the simple method.
I had to take a double take : You're actually doing an instructional video USING AN LT1!!! Very informative video. Thank you!
What gave it away, the water pump gear? LOL
Nice and organized approach. That's a nice looking valve train.
She is purdy, hate to cover it up. LOL
This is the way I do it. Works great and really simple to understand!
So easy, a caveman can do it. Don't have to worry about what valve is where in its duration.
Thanks for making my day !!! I wish I would have known this a long time ago !!!
I got a hydraulic lifter Puller and pulled them all first and took them apart and cleaned them first. My girlfriends Nova 1970 hasn't ran in a while so I noticed the lifter not compressing. After I cleaned them and reinstalled them I did this method. Thanks for this video.
A cleaned lifter, is a happy lifter. Doesn't take much to jam them up. A small piece of carbon, and its jammed. Those novas are really bringing the price these days. Wish I had one. Glad it helped, and thanks for stopping by. ✌
Cool channel mechanic, keep doing your thing and rock on! 🔧 🤘
Great vidio Ken , a real time saver , couldn't get any easier
The title of the video says it all, good visual learning experience
I didn't cut a corner, I just softened the edges and made it easier. LOL
Great video thanks brother. I have never seen it done this way before. Great info keep up the great work see you in the next video thanks again brother
Scott Pearson TOOLS &MORE
This way, you don't have worry about losing track of where you were. Thanks for stopping by.
Hey look a squirrel. That was classic. Nice work!
2:10
You are using a awesome head on the engine buddy,I like the trick flows if I wasn't running Brodix that's what I would be running,,great video!!
He didn't have the money to spend on the Brodix. Thanks for the input on the heads. They do have porting done to them, but we have no idea who did the porting, he bought them used.
Following the disassembly of the valve springs on 5.2L V8 engine mounted on Grand Cherokee ZJ.
I reassemble the rocker arm.
if these rocker arms are badly reassembled, badly adjusted. (I did not run the engine between each rocker setting). This may prevent the engine from starting.
Thank you for your help !
Nice video straight up to the point
Good Video! Nice Rockers and Heads. I've never did this way but will try sometime.
I think this way is much to easy....yes sir! Thanks Misfit you did a great vid !!!!
Cheers!!!
This video just showed for me but super glad it did, definitely gonna try it on the 302 Ford I'm building
Word of caution, on Ford's, it only works for stud mounted rockers. It won't work on pedestal mounted rockers.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 awesome thank you for the heads up
that is a great way of doing that. Thanks for the information!
Thanks for stopping by brother
looks like a perfect way to keep building engines
You vid was simple. You’ve made this real easy for me.
Thank you, glad it helped. Thanks for watching
Great video! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
It has it's running after I sent it too Hime so he could watch I tried to explain it over the phone but he didn't understand what I ment so thank you for sharing this just in time I didn't feel like driving for 3 hours
lomsome's Garage
That would be a long drive, just to say watch this. LOL
I like your way better too , haha I've watched a lot of youtube and your the first I've seen do it that way . 👍
Thank you sir, I would lose track of doing first this cylinder, then that cylinder, wait for one lifter to lift to adjust the oposing lifter. Which could get you in trouble if you have a lot of overlap on the cam.
Great video salute
Thank you sir!
Awesome stuff DIY!
Thanks donkey, Your'e alright in my book. I don't care what Bob says about you. LOL
That was a great video brother
Thank you sir.
You flipping rock bub!!!!
love this
Great video. I just sent to a buddy so he could set his valve's without oiling everything in sight lol he's old school
I hope it works out for him. It's best to find out from lifter manufaturer how much preload they suggest on their lifter. On this engine, we are using 7/16 20 studs. So an additional 1/2 turn on nut will give me .025 of preload after zero lash. Stock rocker stud size on this engine was 3/8 24. Which would be .021 per half turn.
www.atlanticfasteners.com/tech-tips/how-far-a-nut-or-bolt-travels-in-one-full-turn/
Thank you!
No muss no fuss, I have never seen this before. I have always done it from memory but I see how this works.
That's where I do NOT excel (memory) I have the memory of a goldfish. I get lost from one side of the bowl to the other. I have to look for alternative ways. LOL Thanks for stopping by
I really like this method, nothing to remember and much harder to get wrong. Like did I get all the valves on the last turn to have them closed with other methods. Distractions always seem to occur, like has someone got a bandage please.
Thanks brother!
GREAT VIDEO !!! Question - I have the same heads and rockers and have had to pull one and replace. Since it was a running engine, the lifters will still be charged with oil yes? Does that make a difference because you talked about not soaking as some do...so would that be the same? How do I get around that? Thanks
You are changing a rocker?
To me, this can be tricky. I like them to be empty because I can feel the spring pressure inside the lifter. You can compress air, you cannot compress liquid.
Because we used NSA rockers I could leave rocker loose and turn engine over and pump the lifter up fully with oil, then put cam lobe on the base circle, adjust to zero lash + additional preload. It's just not knowing if the lifter is empty, partially filled, or totally filled that bothers me, LOL.
Or you could run the engine and set it while idling, tighten until tapping noise stops plus an additional 1/2 turn
Good stuff
very well done buddy thumbs up and shared
I got to say that does look a hell of a lot easier.
I all about looking for the easy way out. LOL
Good afternoon. I just watch your video and I must say your way is much much easier than all the rest. Great great video I must say. I have a quick question for you. After setting the rods to 0 lash, turn crank 1/4 turn, some of the rods are tight. Do I leave those and just check those other rods for valve lash? Again, great video. Your friend...Eric from L.A.
Yes, once you have no lash, move on, until all are at zero lash. The reason some are tight is because they are on the lobe of the cam and currently opening a valve.
You will definitely feel the pressure when you go to set the preload with the ones that are on the lobe.
I remember My Dad setting Valve Lash while the engines were running.
Many people still do
Sure wish I had watched this a year ago, sure would have helped.
Nice video. I really appreciate the technique. One question, you mentioned that this method would work for sbc with 1.5 rockers. Is there any reason it wouldn't work for sbf and 1.6 rockers? Any differences in the amount of the turn for the final preload, etc?
Will not work on pedestal mount rockers, which most fords are. Preload will be determined by number of turns and pitch of thread in the rocker stud.
Find out from lifter manufacturer about their recommended preload.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 I have a scorpion roller rocker like you were demonstrating on in the video.
Hey look at a squirrel... you had me Dying lmao!
betch ya he eats them hahaha
@@jeremypetrovic2713 🤣
Thanks for the video... do you prefer the intake off when doing this, or would you "rough it" via the valve covers?
I prefer intake off, but you can rough it, if you have to
What's "rough it"?
@@cencoast_7.340It was intended as a "figure of speech" for adjusting the valves in the same way at the valve covers (instead of taking the entire intake off). In that case, though, you'd have less pushrod to grab onto. That's all. Thanks for the question. I can see how that could be a little confusing. Have a great day!
This is the best way to do it you get lots of interruptions. You dont have to remember where you left off. Just step back up and continue. Its that easy. Once you do it this way, you wont do it any other way. Runs perfect every time.
Is the pushrod supposed to stop spinning completely by hand or is it just supposed to be hard to spin, before doing final adjustments?
No to both, turn down until you have just a very slight drag. it should still spin freely with no lash. After that you make your additional adjustment depending on thread pitch and how much pre-load is required. I like to do mine without soaking the lifters, because I don't want to risk the lifter chamber being full oil when setting pre-load. They get filled when I prime the oil system with drill.
DIY Misfit "Mechanic" Can i do this even though i soaked my lifters?
Thanks that's awesome I'm laughing hard
👍 cheers! 🍻
Very much appreciate your showing this method. Any idea how I make sure the final preloading turn is 1/2 turn (as opposed to 3/4 or some other amount)? - 1983 GM 366 engine, everything stock.
Great question
Go to about 6:30 timestamp in this video
czcams.com/video/E2Ea7aYhUpY/video.html
Bolt diameter and thread pitch affect how much turn you need.
Lifters only have about .060" of hydraulic travel, so you don't want to exceed that
I'm having trouble understanding what I'm feeling for in the pushrods. I think where I went wrong was feeling for up and down movement to see if both ends were making contact. It looks like you're making a point to only push up on the rod to see if it makes the rocker move, and I'm wondering if by applying very light pressure downward while jiggling it, I was messing myself up by slightly compressing the lifters. For some reason I'm not wrapping my mind around feeling for drag, because it feels like the more I spin the rod the looser it gets. I spun the motor over about 12 rotations and still got play in a rocker, so there has to be something I'm doing wrong in feeling for zero lash.
Yes, I was lifting on the rod to see if the rocker moved, if it did, then I had more adjustment to make. The spinning is something, you've got to get a feel for. You can take up almost all of the travel out of the lifter and it will still spin freely, it's a very lite resistance, until you bottom out and have no where left to go. (something you want to avoid to prevent or you'll burn a valve from the valve not sealing completely during operation)
The compressing of the lifter is where you make the preload adjustment after setting zero lash.
As noted in the description below the video, set your preload according to the thread pitch of the studs.
Just watched the video, looks very simple. I have a 383 stroker that has run but has been sitting for 5 weeks.
Can this procedure be performed on this motor prior to me filling with fresh oil & priming.
Thanks. Panel Truck Dave
Yes, but some if not all lifters will be holding oil in them, I imagine you have hydraulic lifters. After you get to zero lash, the ones that are on the cam lobes will have more pressure when setting the preload. You will know when you feel it. BUT if you have a lifter that is collapsed or bottomed out, you could end up exceeding the pre load. Be very cautious when finding zero lash.
Because you have already run the engine, I think it is best to go by cylinder like the manual suggest to make sure you are on a base circle, or you can set the valves while engine running, but you would need covers that have access to the rockers while running, to control the oil splash.
Saw your comment saying this won't work on a ls motor. What about the prior year LT motors. 93 and 94?
Yes this will work on the 90's LT1. That engine in the video is a 95 LT1, but that is where it stops. 97 is the last year you can do this on the sbc.
AWESOME VID ! Im changing out some leaky intake manifold gaskets on a Ford FE.. The rocker rail/roller rockers need to be removed because the pushrods run through the intake manifold. There is already oil in the motor and in the roller lifters. Can this method still be used on a motor that has already been started ,driven and ran? Can the oil in the roller lifters cause a valve to hang open once this method is used after new gaskets ,rocker rails, pushrods, roller rockers and intake are re installed ?
If you are talking about the FE manufactured from 58 to 76, then no, this method will not work unless the rockers were changed out for adjustable rockers.
Make sure to drain your coolant beforehand because there are coolant ports on the intake manifold.
When you pull the bolts that hold the rocker shaft in place, there is going to be one on each side that is different. Take note to which hole it came from because it allows oil to flow to the top end. Put it in the wrong hole and the top end gets starved for oil. The shank of the bolt will be a smaller diameter than the rest of the bolts on the same side. Remember, there will be one on each side like this.
Also keep all rockers and pushrods in the position that they come out of. They are now married.
You will get some antifreeze out of the intake that will get away and flow down into block, but it will sink to the bottom of the oil in the pan and will come out first when draining the oil after repair.
use a shop-vac while cleaning, to prevent debris from falling down into block.
That intake will be very heavy compared to regular intakes.
Good luck on your repair,
Dave
Thanks for the info, yes a Ford FE they were changed out to a Performance Quotient shaft mount roller rocker rail set up =@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404
Did you begin the lash with the 1st cylinder at TDC or does it not matter with this technique.. ? Thank you..
With this technique, you can start and end anywhere as long as you make at least 2 full revolutions of the Crank which in turn relates to 1 full turn of the cam. Be careful when lifters are not primed like I do, you can easily start pushing into the preload area without knowing. To be safe you can just use the jiggle method, don't worry about side play, just the up and down.
So You Have To Press Out All The Oil In The Lifters To Where They Are "Squishy" And Adjust The Rockers Untill They Have A Slight Drag When Spinning The Pushrods With 0 Lash. But You Can Still Push Down On The Rocker And Compress The Lifter When The Lifter Is On The Base Circle Of Cam Correct?
Not needed. It's just my preference on new lifters.
Just get a feel for the zero lash while making sure you are not compressing the hydraulic portion of the lifter while getting there. Once you have zero lash, then set your preload.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Awsome. This Is What I'll Be Doing Tonight.
I’m doing this on my LT1 corvette and replacing the lifters? Would it be bad to soak my lifters to fill the with oil first? That’s what my buddy did on his
No, it will be fine, I just prefer to have them empty , so I can feel the travel in the piston of the lifter.
Just remember when they are pre-primed, when you apply the preload, it will open the corresponding valve and hold it open until the lifter bleeds off the excess oil inside.
Sorry for delay in response, I'm not on here much anymore.
Every time I try this with used hydraulic roller lifters and roller rockers, I get a few valves that are open after 2 full revolutions. The lifters have been soaked in carb cleaner then left to dry for about a month. How do you fix that issue?
When setting zero lash, keep twisting the push rod until you feel the SLIGHTEST bit of drag.
Sounds like you are bottoming out the hydraulic portion of the lifter, leaving nothing left for for preload.
There is about .060" usable for preload.
You can also lift up and down on the push rod while tightening until you have no more lash.
Once lash is gone then apply an additional half turn. That will put you approximately .030" of preload, depending on your rocker stud diameter and thread pitch.
Great Video question with the lifter being dry wouldn't it collapse the lifter with spring pressure
Yes, you can Collapse it. While you're tightening you could jiggle up and down until the play is gone. I just like to feel for the slightest resistance.
If the lifters are dry, you can push the rod down into lifter to make sure you still have the travel available.
It's not the spring pressure that will collapse it when new, it would be from drawing down on the rocker nut to much.
The valve spring doesn't come into play until you preload it.
It is designed to do a partial collapse and the oil pressure will keep it tight. As things wear, it will require more oil in the lifter to accommodate for the wear to keep it tight.
That is the hydraulic action.
Solid lifters are better for performance, but require you to go back in and do manual adjustments, where the hydraulic is automatic, until something fails or wears out.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thank You
newbie question - My engine is in the truck, belts and all(SBC 406). Bent a pushrod and spun a rocker arm(and missing another pushrod - dont ask) so going to have to do this. Can't seem to rotate it ccw because the nut just backs off. Does it matter which direction I rotate it?
Rotate the engine clockwise. That's the direction they run. It's also easier to do with the plugs out.
Do you think this would work with a 2004 mustang 3.9. It has a hydraulic cam, and lifters. I hope so because your technique is sure one of the best I've seen.
If the rockers are a pedestal mount design, the answer is no
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thank you
I had motor rebuilt he didn't ajust the valve lash before the motor was started how should I ajust roller rocker's if they make noise with out changing lifters or running car while ajusting
You can still set them to zero lash, then add your preload, wait 24 hours, they should bleed down to where they need to be. The zero lash must be set while on the base circle of the cam
Will this work with valves that already have been pumped up hydraulically with oil in some way (eg. priming with a drill)?
Yes, set zero lash, then set your pre-load. Afterwards, I myself would wait 24hrs before starting to allow the lifters to bleed down because of preprime. Starting engine immediately afterwards would hold valves open to the amount of preload you set into it, at risk of "burning the valves"
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thanks for the reply.....they are brand new Lunati roller in an SBC 383.....so I will do just that and thanks for the reply.
Like another guy said, I too saw the video by Ken doing zero lash the exact same way. (90 degree turn etc.) Both videos are with NEW lifters though. I'm doing an inspection/teardown on a used SBC. I found the cam to still be in good shape and will reuse it and lifters. (yes, the lifters AND even the pushrods were put in a cutout shoebox so they'll go back in the same holes they came from)
My question is, since my lifters are used with oil in them can I use this same method to do an initial adjustment? This engine won't get started till the summer of 2019.
Yes they will bleed down the excess after preload is loaded. As long as it sits for at least 24hrs after you have applied the preload they should be fine
I'm in the same boat. My lifters are full of oil. My question is, after the 24 hour hold and readjustment, is there a way to prime the lifters again without pulling the distributor and using a priming tool?
Does this method also work with a 302 Ford small block with hydraulic lifters, Adjustable rocker arms and flat tappet cam? I wanted to rebuild my heads. Thanks
Yes, as long as they are not pedestal mount.
Can this be done on a used engine that already has oil in the hydraulic lifters?
I would say yes, just let them sit at least 24hrs after doing so, so the excess pressure bleeds off and not holding a valve partially open.
If I've already set my lash and found someone set the cam timing 180° out with top dead center correct. Can I just remove the timing chain and rotate the cam gear and cam around until I get it at correct alignment? It seems I ran into something so I stop and didn't want to force it. But I was hoping it was spring pressure and I could continue on through it.
Once the lash is set, it is set. Turning the cam will have no affect on that.
If you are working on a SBC, chances are it was put together right, just didn't turn the crank one full revolution before stabbing the distributor in.
When assembling a SBC setting the cam and crank on the marks with timing chain, it is out by 180°, so before installing distributor, you have to turn the crank 360° to put #1 on compression stroke. When timing marks are lined up it is not on compression stroke.
Both timing marks should be at 12 o'clock for the rotor to be at #1.
Unlike during assembly,(installing chain) cam is 6 and crank is 12.
Hope this makes sense to you.
Sorry, it took me a while to respond, I'm not on here much anymore
Thanks guys! I thought so. I'm building a motor I've put alot of money in and I had a brain fart. I'm not quite yet done with this motor. I'm venturing into things I've never done in the past. As a mechanic I don't normally build motors. I just repair them. Sbc isn't something you see much anymore cole into the shop. I just need to make a mistake to set me back to where I just can't recover. I don't have alot of money but I'm not trying to build on a budget and using cheap shit. So I have 4o build at a slower pace as I can afford parts that I feel are going to take this abuse I'm about to dish out at this engine. I thank you for the response! God blesss
Does this work with a big cam?
Yes as long as it has hydraulic and not solid lifters
How do you like those scorpion rockers? Was thinking of getting those same ones.
Had no problems with them, they did what they were supposed to do.
Plus they looked cool. LOL
We used the NSA "non self aligning", so these required guide plates, which once set, we tack welded them, so they wouldn't shift
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Did they fit under you valve covers?
@@nicotoscani8270 Never tried under stock cover, I doubt they would fit under stock
I take it you have to remove the intake manifold to do this if you don't have self centering roller rockers?
Guide plates aren't that thick, you can do this from the top with either SA, or NSA rockers.
I did from top on one of my boys SBF 5.0 in his Miata.
Why not just bring it up on TDC on the compression stroke, and set each cylinder?
Get it old head 👍
Got it
For engines that have lifters that have been used for thousands of miles (rebuilt head only), can this method be used? How would I account for the preload?
Yes this method is fine to use over and over. Preload will remain the same, use what ever the lifter manufacturer recommends for preload. It will vary depending on stud diameter and thread pitch.
Once you have zero leash, add the required amount of turn of the nut to achieve the preload you need. Most lifters require a minimum of
.0020 some as high as .0060
Sir how would you set the lash if your reusing the old hydraulic lifters with oil already in them from use.. ? Thank you
Same way, Just keep adjusting until you have zero lash (no up and down movement). You will still have side movement. Once you get to that point, you can apply your preload.
great video- second one I've seen like this, and both said to nor soak the lifters in oil. I have a SBC 383, roller set up and recently had tranny work done. i think the guys revved it because I had loose rockers. We tightened to spec with half a turn past zero lash. Ran it, purred perfect. Came back a few hours later, would hardly start and clattering again. I am thinking collapsed lifters?? Thoughts? Anyway, If I replace all lifters, and don't soak in oil, how to I use the drill to prime? this isn't a new engine, and it is full of oil. Confused on that part. Thanks!
They make a priming tool that you use with a drill. Some people have also modified an old distributor into a priming tool for user with a drill.
But this was on a LT1, which required having the intake off to prime because of no distributor location on intake.
It does sound like the lifters are not holding their fluid, or you have an oil supply problem too the lifter galley. When rebuilding did you make sure the check ball was in place above oil filter adapter housing. I'll see if I can find link for it.
Here ya go,
czcams.com/video/EJ6K98affAs/video.html
Thanks!
@@3819Rock 👍
Does this method work for adjusting lifters already installed and soaked in oil? Such as periodic adjustments?
Yes but, hydraulic lifters are self adjusting. If properly set, and they become too far out of adjustment, that is a sign of cam lobe, or lifter damage. If using aftermarket lifters with lock nuts, make sure the luck nuts are tight.
There should be no need for readjustment.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thanks for the reply. So I have an LT1 gen 2. Thinking of going to 1.6 rockers and appropriate springs with existing pushrods and lifters. Would your method work then?
@@nicotoscani8270 yes, but springs get matched to the cam specs. If you change your cam, go with what the manufacturer of cam recommends for springs.
Sorry for late reply, been busy.
I have been having DIY livestream withdrawals. LOL So use to you being on all the time. Later!!!!
Grace needs her fix LOL
Yes I do DIY. My divorce was just finalized and I need some laughs.LOL See ya soon!!!!!
LOL, your'e too much. So who got to keep the donkey?😂
No donkey for me!!! He can have that for sure and give to his new girlfriend!!!!!!!. LOL
chop chop
what do you start the number one piston at, tdc of compression stroke?
You can start in any position you want, as long as you make two full revolutions of the crank, making 4 stops per revolution. It equals to 8 stops on the cam, because the cam only makes one revolution for every two revolutions of the crank.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 alright thanks for responding
Are these hydraulic lifters? Just asking.
Yes sir they are hydraulic, I better update the description huh? LOL
If they were solid, I would be using a feeler guage to set the lash. No preload on solid lifters. Thanks for brining that to my attention.
Yes when you said preload that was what triggered me to ask. I just wanted to be sure. wasn't trying to be a smart ass even though I do do that from time to time!
It's okay, It takes one to know one. LOL😂
I am only changing head gaskets so my hyd. lifers may have some residual oil in them. Can I still use this method or is this only for dry lifters?
Yes it will work, but myself, I would until next day before stating to allow lifters to bleed down after preload adjustment.
You will feel it get tight as you apply the preload. That is the valve partially opening, that is why I would let is set until next day.
If the valves are not fully closing it will run rough with some misfiring, and possible backfiring.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thanks for the reply. The engine has been sitting for a few weeks so I should be good.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 I did as you recommended and she fired up right away and needed no further adjustment on the valves/lifters. Thanks for the info!
@@trailblazer502 Good to hear, some people don't have the feel for that very lite drag.
My one son didn't have the feel, and couple were too tight, valves weren't closing completely. Ran terrible and we had to loosen and allow oil pressure to pump them up because the lifter internals wouldn't come up on their own. This was on a fresh build though with new lifters.
wonder how many of those plugs i would drop down in my engine
I got lucky this time 😁
So what if it breaks rocker arms....then I go to stamped rollers and it starts pushing nuts off studs threads and all
I'm just a diy'er, but what is the reason your rockers are breaking?
As for the nuts getting loose on stamped rockers, my guess would be to replace the nuts with new ones, they have lost their ability to hold their position. Are you running a extremely high spring pressure maybe?
Is this method still applied when using a big cam A 465 lift cam
Yes, valve lift will have no affect getting to zero lash. We used a .597 lift on the stroker we built.
As long as you are using a chevy style stud mount rocker on LT1 or older SBC or BBC. It will not work on LS.
By making 1/4 turn increments while doing 2 full revolutions on crank, you will be making 8 stops on the cam. So you be guaranteed to hit the base circle a couple times throughout the process.
Its also VERY important to get springs to match the cam.
Great video, my question is: can I reuse the stock rockers on a new aluminum head?
@@samtruglio6544 i would say yes, BUT your pushrod length may need to be changed if using a different head.
czcams.com/video/E2Ea7aYhUpY/video.html
Oh wait, I don't think you will be able to use my method for determining pushrod length on stock rockers. If trying to save money, maybe look for a good used set of roller rockers
So with hydraulic lifters to get zero lash you want to be able to spin the pushrod freely but no up and down motion right?
Yes, zero lash is spinning freely, but no movement up and down
if the lifters are dry un-primed then there will be up and down movement. It can be as much as .0060 Make sure you are into the movement of the collapsible portion of the lifter itself.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 okay. So on new lifters there will be a minuscule amount of up and down to make up for them not being pumped with oil? Sorry about the questions. My old faithful started giving me problems, never had to mess with valve train before.
@@SirGuidemere91 That is correct. On a new lifter, you can easily push into it.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 excellent. I appreciate the guidance. Thank you!
Did you per soak the lifters in oil? Some people say to and others say not to.
To each their own. You can go either way. I did not soak them. I just gave them a quick submerge dip before installing turn.
The lifters fill when I prime the system, before cranking. Once you have oil coming through every rocker, you're good.
Oil has to go through the lifter to get to the rocker. If you are unable to get oil through some rockers, just rotate the engine a little and try again. At this point I still do not have plugs in the engine, so there is minimum pressure on any moving parts.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 thanks I appreciate it. My son and I are doing this tomorrow.
Is it still half a turn if I'm reusing the old lifters? just got the heads done
The number of turns is gonna be determined by the diameter and thread pitch of your rocker studs.
I mention about the stud size in this video around the timer of 6 :50
czcams.com/video/E2Ea7aYhUpY/video.html
Hydraulic lifters usually have a travel of .050 to .060
If you go beyond that, the valves will not seat.
You should be able to find out from the lifter manufacturer what they recommend for amount of preload
Thanks, I was taught how to do it when the engine is running but it's to messy, I'm trying to get around that.
now can you tell me what to do after the engine has run ,, and is clattering on a few valves .. can i use this method .. or is it negated because the lifters have had oil pressure put to them ..
YES, set zero lash as shown, then apply your required preload according to your thread pitch on rocker stud.
Then "I" would let it set for at least 24 hours to let thr lifter bleed off the excess.
Did you prime system oil with drill, or start the engine without priming? You are using hydraulic lifters?
this engine has about 500 miles on it .. I set about 10 thousands as a preload to start with .. using the hard method with the inner springs of a double spring combo removed for breakin ..now theres been about 100 miles or about since the other half of the springs were installed .. i dont think there is any chance of the hydro lifters overcoming the seat pressure of these springs so I thought id ask
@@fingers967
Most lifters require at least twice that preload. Ours called for 25 to 30 thou
@@fingers967
Contact the lifter manufacture, give them your model of lifter and ask what preload they recommend
@@fingers967
fingers967
Always get springs to match the cam. Hydraulic lifters will have no problem overcoming seat pressure. Once they are properly preloaded, they are self adjusting as the valves seat themselves.
after they were set how far did you turn the nut after they were set to 0 thanks
We used 7/16 x 20 rocker studs. We went 1/2 turn additional which gave us a pre-load of .0025
Max preload on these lifters I think we're .0060 so we are just about in the middle
7/16 bolt with 20 threads per inch will yield about .0050 per full turn of nut
Stock studs which are 3/8 24 will yield .0042 per full turn
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thanks ...
@camaroguy 66
I would say you are safe with that amount. It depends on the lifter manufactures preload recommendation. As long as your'e in between the min and max, you're golden
If more people will use this simple 90 degree technique, they would not have as many problems with their valuetrain as they do. I think there's just been so many videos with people. Pulling out filler gages and all this other stuff. I think they're scared to try it. 0 lash is 0 lash all day long now on the preload. It's kinda to the individual but I would rather get the preload a little loose than I had to get it too tight. If I'm not sure about the technique i'using you can always go back. And Snug them up. But I've been using this technique for years, and I've never had a problem.
Feeler gauges are used if you have solid lifters .
Why did you use guide plates? Pretty sure this is an LT1 engine and scorpion rockers are self aligning so guide plates are not needed? Just wondering because I have the same ones lol
We used nsa scorpians
Non self aligning
DIY Misfit "Mechanic" ahhhh gotcha. I want to try this method but the lifters are already pumped up from running. I think they'll bleed down if the car sits for a few days? ?
@@Camaro1019
yes they should bleed down
I would crank them all down to force the valves open. Then let sit for 24 hours. WARNING: DO NOT DRIVE OR START THE ENGINE IN THIS CONDITION.
After 24 hours back everything off and try this procedure.
Remember to use the correct number of turns depending on your stud diameter and thread pitch for preload.
I’m guessing you start at TDC ?
Nope, you can start anywhere in the crank rotation that you want to, just make sure you do at least 2 full revolutions of the crank to get one revolution of the cam. 1/4 turn at a time
Do you start at TDC then rotate a quarter at a time.
You can start any where you please using this method, As long as you make 2 full revolutions at quarter turn increments
It will give you 8 stop points on the cam
Are the push rods supposed to spin after your done
Great question,
That depends if you're currently pushing a valve open.
If you're not on a lobe of the cam, it should still spin freely with just a little restriction.
If it's currently pushing a valve open, then it should have a lot of resistance
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 most of mine spin and only 1-2 on each side dont spin
@@untearly8212 sounds about right, some valves are closing as others are beginning to open. It will never be just one valve at a time, against spring pressure.
As soon as it starts applying pressure it will be hard to turn the rods.
Excuse me sir, are you spinning the pushrods once they get close to zero to verify? It looks like you are but thought I would ask . I have done it this way for many years, but myvintageiron7215 said we are all idiots for doing it this way.
Yes sir, I was spinning the rod back and forth, feeling for that ever so slight drag. Then can we say this is the idiot proof way to do it? LOL It's so easy an idiot can do it.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 10 4
What if i already soaked lifters in oil
Just make sure you let engine sit at least 24hrs before starting, after setting preload. They should bleed down if they are pumped up.
Ok cool thanks
Does this work the same way for a 64 inline 6
Sorry, I can not answer that, never been in one of those.
DIY Misfit "Mechanic" Okie Dokie thanks man
Is that with new lifters? Because I'm going to be putting in a new cam.
Yes these were new unprimed lifters
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 Thank you sir....
@@dalejrfan820002000 cheers!!!
Can this same method be used across all types/brands of engines?
No, I know it will not work on the LS engine
Could this method be used for SBFs? I’ve got a 302 and I’m trying to set the valves on it.
@@AirborneTejano
What year?
DIY Misfit "Mechanic" it’s out of a 93 mustang gt, I’m putting it in my 94 F150.
@@AirborneTejano
If you are using factory Ford heads , I'm going to say no you can not use this method. Ford oem heads uses a pedestal mount rocker on their heads, since about 1978
You seem smart as shit can I take a junk 305 put roller rockers and do that....And it be kosher good too go
Can you still do it this way if you put your lifter in oil before?
Im gonna say yes. But when you put your preload on, it will open valve a little. Just let it set at least 24 hours before running, to allow the lifter to bleed down.
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 ok that's what I'll do thank you
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 5 minutes will work
Booger man, The camera operator. 😶🌫️
And this was before covid LOL 😆
Can I use this method on stock 1995 454
Sorry, I'm gonna say no. From what I can find is that engine has NON adjustable rockers.
You would need a kit that converts the stock rockers to adjustable ones, and by replacing the bolts with studs
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 sounds like i probably need to do the same on my 1995 460. I have viewed no fewer than 40 of these videos. Most show your method. None state the rockers must be the adjustable type. I just finished the zero lash aas about to set pre-load when I found this video and comment. Do I have to use the TDC method and firing order? I'm completely confused lol
@@James_the_Builder If your rockers are adjustable, (stud mounted - not pedestal mounted) then you are fine.
If you are doing a 1/4 turn at a time with the crank, then you are making 8 stops on the cam. Remember there are two revolutions of the crank to one of the cam.
So 8 stops stops should guarantee at least one stop was on a base circle.
Hope this helps
I did this on my 1997 gmc 5.7l after replacing lifters. I tried priming the oil pump but no oil would get to the vavle train. Am I doing something wrong?
Are you priming with starter or drill attachment?
was it a total rebuild, or just the lifters?
With a drill attachment and it was only the lifters and valve springs because some of the springs were broken.
@@deanscott5311 You have a problem then, either you're not down in the pump or the pump is shot. How long were you running the drill? This engine been sitting a while?
@@diymisfit_Mechanic_UDX404 I'll try to upload a short video of priming the oil pump. I'm not sure where the video will end up at. It's uploading now.