Setting Valve Lash on Solid and Hydraulic Lifters
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- čas přidán 27. 08. 2024
- Proper Valve Lash helps you get the most out of your Camshaft and Lifter combo. Learn how set valve lash and get a few tips to remember: there is no lifter preload for solid lifters, while there is on hydraulic lifters.
Chevy, Olds, Buick, Mopar -- Set TDC on cylinder 1 -- Set Exhaust Valve Lash on cylinders 1, 3, 4, 8 Intake Valve Lash on cylinders 1, 2, 5, 7. Rotate to TDC on cylinder 6 - Set Exhaust Valve Lash on cylinders 2, 5, 6, 7 Intake Valve Lash on cylinders 3, 4, 6, 8
Ford 302 - Set TDC on cylinder 1 -- Set Exhaust Valve Lash on cylinders 1, 2, 5, 7 Intake Valve Lash on cylinders 1, 3, 4, 8. Rotate to TDC on cylinder 6 - Set Exhaust Valve Lash on cylinders 3, 4, 6, 8 Intake Valve Lash on cylinders 2, 5, 6, 7
Ford 5.0HO, 351W/C/M, 300 - Set TDC on cylinder 1 -- Set Exhaust Valve Lash on cylinders 1, 2, 3, 4 Intake Valve Lash on cylinders 1, 5, 7, 8. Rotate to TDC on cylinder 6 - Set Exhaust Valve Lash on cylinders 5, 6, 7, 8 Intake Valve Lash on cylinders 2, 3, 4, 6 www.summitracin...
I have a w123 240D Mercedes with solid lifters. I did my first valve adjustment with the help of a friend who does mechanic work on his own equipment. It turned out very good. I noticed that the diesel engine started easier and it had even more power.
Good tip.
When setting the valves in the number 1 firing position you may adjust
Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 Intake 1, 2, 5, 7 the number 6 firing position is one revolution from the number 1 firing position. In the number 6 firing position you may adjust
Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 Intake 3, 4, 6, 8 this information was in my Chevrolet shop manual.
Gking King Exactly!!
Gking King So I need to turn harmonic balancer and crank one turn back to 0 on balancer for number 6 firing order? correct?
same for bbc right?
Adam Schofield yes.
You guys have it real easy with your engine designs, I've just spent 9hrs shimming/valve clearances with a DOHC with bucket followers with shim under buckets on a race engine which was a pain in the ass to do as it had top hat shims that Sat on top of valve tip. Accuracy is key to valves not burning up cause of wrong clearances. A pain to do compared to the engines that is used in your country.
I’ve adjust bucket valves on motorcycles. Not a lot of fun. On an old sloppy Chevrolet engine, you can almost get away with finger tight on hydraulic valves.
I will listen to no one with a mustsng t shirt nor will i ever buy from sumit again !!!
Thank you so much for the video I knew how to do Hydraulic, but needed a quick lesson on solid had some noise in my engine and the short cut was much appreciated
Al, you work for summit and they let you explain the wrong way to adjust Solid and Hydraulic cams. That company must really be hitting rock bottom by not watching your video and causing 1,000's of motors to bite the dust.This is the reason that there are so many people out there destroying their expensive cams. First off there is the only one way to do this simple but very important job. Remember this set of letters. " E.O.I.C." This means, Exhaust open, Intake closed. So, starting with no#-1 cylinder, You turn the crank clockwise until the No-1 exhaust cylinder spring is all the way open, then you adjust the No-1 Intake valve with your feeler gauge to lets say .018, then you rotate your motor around until the Intake at No-1 Intake valve is totally closed, then you adjust your exhaust valve at .024. Next , you follow this same sequence all around the proper firing order of your BBC motor which is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2... When you complete all cylinders in this fashion, your valve/lifters are all set correctly. Remember when you push your feeler gauge in between the pushrod and your rocker arm that the feeler gauge is just "SNUG" not super tight like some idiots have told you before. SNUG is better, not tight or super loose. When this is complete, your lifters are adjusted properly for 1-weeks worth of normal street driving, with a few good racers with your local competition. Adjust them every Sunday and your motor will operate correctly always. If you are at the track and racing, you might want to adjust them after every other race. If your are a fanatic, like I am. Thank You all The same procedure for Fords only the firing order for Fords is 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8.
In the Ford 302 shortcut, it may be worth mentioning that the rotation and order follows the cam, not necessarily the displacement. For example, a non 5.0 HO that has a 351W cam and firing order would follow the 351W rotation, not the 302. Intuitive if you've built it yourself, but if you bought/inherited this setup, you may be unaware.
Actually, I was replacing guide plates and push rods today. And I think Robert Behr's comment is correct. The 302/351W shortcut info is wonked. Following that valve order will have you setting zero lash and pre-loading valves that are NOT closed. And that's no good. I ended up just going to the old standby #1 compression TDC. Set #1 in/ex. Then rotate in 90 degree increments following the firing order.
For preload you should always ask your cam manufacturer for what they recommend, my ford has 24tpi =.042 per rotation, howards cams reccomemds .045 wich is a little over 1 full turn
Thanks! Needed a refresher!
Thank you for watching, Kelvin!
So what if I don't have the cam specs on my motor .how do I figure out what to set them at. ? Thanks
Thank you for this video. Great job so if I'm to understand when you're on Top Dead Center, #1 cylinder you can make the lash adjustment for the exhaust and the intake without touching anything and that's similar when you're on number six when you do the other half. So if I went to top dead center of each cylinder, it would be the same scenario I could adjust lash on the exhaust and the intake at that time. do I understand that right. Thank you.
Correct me if I'm wrong he brought the exhaust valve till it barely moved and then adjusted the exhaust valve. You are supposed adjust the intake when exhaust moves.
The EOIC method wasn't being used . He was getting the piston close to TDC on the compression stroke , at which time both valves where closed and can be adjusted , although only one valve was done to save video time . The crank was turned clockwise until the exhaust valve opened a little , then turned counter clockwise until he was sure it was closed .
Will this work if my block isnt orange?
Set number cylinder 1 to TDC, adjust lash on 1, 3, 4, 8 exhaust and 1, 2, 5, 7 intake. Then rotate to cylinder 6 at TBC and do what: on intake and exhaust? The video seems to be a bit messed up just at that point.
Get rid of that overlay at 4:25. It's mixing some people up. The way it was originally written was correct. That overlay is just a pain in the ass
(New comment-05/22/2021)- looks like the overlay got removed... I don't even remember what it was, but I do remember something confusing when I was trying to read that info on the cheat sheet. LoL
Thanx for the short cut summit
At 1:23 into the video, his comment re; # 1 TDC is incorrect. Always use the harmonic balancer and timing tab alignment markings to establish TDC and on the C/S .... (compression stroke). That said, these TDC markings should have been varified during engine assembly.
If the assembly tech did not varrify the # 1 TDC markings, you'll want to perform a PPS procedure.
PPS = positive piston stop
The split should be 30 degrees or so.... not only 10 degrees.
As per 1:52, let's assume that we are @ # 1 TDC C/S.
At 2:30 he has set the "depth" (aka "pre-load") of the exhaust hydraulic plunger, of which is the actual goal.
The formula is; rocker arm stud thread pitch Xs rocker arm ratio Xs nut rotation = plunger depth.
At 3:44, with a hydraulic system, using the Static 8 Stop procedure, there is no need to rotate the crankshaft more than two full rotations.
Keep in mind that most GM cam followers offer approx .100" to .140" of hydraulic plunger travel.
When adjusting a mechanicl system, the dynamic procedure (although somewhat messy) is more accurate.
Dynamic ? as in running engine ? How is that more accurate ? That doesn't seem practical to use a feeler gauge on a moving valvetrain .
440 with solid lifters. Comp cams card said set cold setting at 0.16 and 0.18. Your video said hot lash setting on cam card instructions? What do i do cam card only has cold setting? Did i miss something or should of guy actually have said cold setting? I love Summit! Even in Canada you treat us right! When a package comes in it's like Christmas! Everything always right! Thanks. chargerlife 440
I just bought a 355 sbc,it has a pretty aggressive cam however I don't know the specs on it.roller rockers and solid lifters.how do u determine what size feeler gauge to use to set valves?
Did you figure it out
once you find tdc on #1 cyl you can set 1 3 4 8 exhaust valve then # 1 2 5 7 intake valve then rotate engine to find tdc on # 6 cyl then set #2 5 6 7 exhaust valve,then #2 4 6 8 intake valve,my question is this once you have tdc on #1 you go # 1 3 4 8 ccl ex then with out rotating engine go to # 1 2 5 7 in is that correct please
bought a race motor with a flat tappet cam in it the motor is awesome I put new head gaskets on it and I want to set the valve lash but there's no numbers on the cam and nobody knows what they cam is what would be the best lash to set it on
As others have asked, what if you don't have a cam card? Is there a generally accepted, SAFE lash setting for solid roller lifters??
+Eric Boucher,
Solid lift camshafts are designed and ground with a lash number in mind so, anything other than that may get you in trouble! Sorry!
I suggest you go to the comp cams catolge and look up cams similar to your engine and solid roller. Look at the lash values and select a average lash. Start there.
What are you talking about Gking king? This is the reason that there are so many people out there destroying their expensive cams.
First off there is the only one way to do this simple but very important job. Remember this set of letters. " E.O.I.C."
This means, Exhaust open, Intake closed. So, starting with no#-1 cylinder, You turn the crank clockwise until the No-1 exhaust
cylinder spring is all the way open, then you adjust the No-1 Intake valve with your feeler gauge to lets say .018, then you rotate your motor around until the Intake at No-1 Intake valve is totally closed, then you adjust your exhaust valve at .024. Next , you follow this same sequence all around the proper firing order of your BBC motor which is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2... When you complete all
cylinders in this fashion, your valve/lifters are all set correctly. Remember when you push your feeler gauge in between
the pushrod and your rocker arm that the feeler gauge is just "SNUG" not super tight like some idiots have told you before. SNUG
is better, not tight or super loose. When this is complete, your lifters are adjusted properly for 1-weeks worth of normal street driving,
with a few good racers with your local competition. Adjust them every Sunday and your motor will operate correctly always. If you are at the track and racing, you might want to adjust them after every other race. If your are a fanatic, like I am. Thank You all.
I'm want to put a good RV cam in my87 Chevy v10 4x4 305.i understand the motor doesn't have much power as is.but trying to get enough power to pull a 18ft car trailer
Ok first thanks for clearing up this valve lash thing now I no the right way to do this only thing is I don't have a cam card and don't have any idea about the cam just that it don't make much vacuum
tnx for d nice tuturial,,, i have a question ,, uts dodge grand caravan 2008 3.8l do i need to adjust all d rockers untill i found no lash? cause d manual just tirque it with 124 inch lbs and additional 30 degress clockwisw hope u can send me some good feedbacks ,, thank u so much in advance sir,, have a nice day ahead,,,
Hi I have a 350 sbc engine in my Cobra, with Edelbrock performer package, with Hydraulic lifters, and they have recommended a quarter turn preload for the Lash adjustment. But the engine has been run, so the lifters are full of oil! Do I need to still give them a quarter turn or should I just adjust the rockers until the push rods stop turning. If you could help me with this one I would be grateful.
Colin
Where those lifters pre pumped up, or empty?
was wondering if you can use the shortcut you talked about on hydraulic lifters or just solid,thanx
So I’ve run the intake valve all way down and back up and to adjust the exhaust valve or is it vice versa? Do I run the exhaust valve down back up and when the intake valve starts to go down is that when I adjust the exhaust valve on a solid lifter.
Finding TDC is not accurate enough for lash adjustment if you have any sort of cam significantly over a stock cam. The only proper method is the EOIC method.
Rotating the wrench 180 doesn't always work. It depends whether you have 3/8ths or 7/16ths screw in studs which dictates how much you rotate the wrench for what distance.
I did half a turn, 12 to 6 o'clock, and I had a ton of chatter coming from the rocker arms. 🪇🪇🪇🪇
Guys, you should mention that the fast way you showed to set valve lash isn't always dead on with a cam with too much duration, as the lifter isn't always fully seated. The fast way works for stock, or close to stock LSA...
Have a 1971 Plymouth 340. Not sure if it has solid or hydraulic lifters. Chilton manual says hydraulic but looks like solid to me. How can I tell which ones I have?
Could someone clarify bringing down the adjuster until you feel "resistance"? I believe this is called zero lash. Should I be able to spin the pushrod? Spin it with some effort? To the point where I can't spin it? I'm talking about the adjustment right before you proceed with the half turn of preload.
I have the same question. I hope Summit or someone with experience can answer this question
Use up and down motion to find zero lash. When there is no up and down play go the half turn.
i just replace my head gaskets on my 1996 chevy blazer 4.3 vortec what kind of valve adjustment do l have to do
The same. A 4.3 is just like a 350 with 2 cylinders lopped off.
Really need to replace the graphic at 4:25 in the video. I think it was correct to start with and then faded the original "intake" and "exhaust" which were right and added another "intake" and "exhaust" over them which makes the graphic incorrect.
Dude I don't understand what ur saying, is it intake valves 2 5 6 7 and exhaust 3 4 6 8, or is it the other way around? What is it?
For hydraulic lifters,valve lash and measureing pushrod length do I need to prime the oil pump so lifters are filled
Great info! Thanks for that! I think it’s great that you’re wearing a Mustang shirt while working on a Chevy! Haha! Do that bow tie a favor and set the lash TOO TIGHT for em! Here comes the flood of comments! “That’s the only way a Ford will beat a Chevy!” 🤣🤣🤣
Thanks for watching !
Hi can you help me understand this? on TDC Cyl #1 you said to adjust Exhaust Valves 1-3-4-8 and Intake 1-2-5-7 then rotate to TDC CYL# 6 to adjust Intake 2-5-6-7 and Exhaust 3-4-6-8 . Are you saying I should re -adjust Intake 2-5-7 again on TDC # CYL 6?
OK it should be TDC # 6 adjust exhaust 2-5-6-7 and intake 3-4-6-8.
No. When #6 cyl is at TDC, just set EX - 2-5-6-7 and IN - 3-4-6-8 valves.
This is the reason that there are so many people out there destroying their expensive cams. First off there is the only one way to do this simple but very important job. Remember this set of letters. " E.O.I.C." This means, Exhaust open, Intake closed. So, starting with no#-1 cylinder, You turn the crank clockwise until the No-1 exhaust cylinder spring is all the way open, then you adjust the No-1 Intake valve with your feeler gauge to lets say .018, then you rotate your motor around until the Intake at No-1 Intake valve is totally closed, then you adjust your exhaust valve at .024. Next , you follow this same sequence all around the proper firing order of your BBC motor which is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2... When you complete all cylinders in this fashion, your valve/lifters are all set correctly. Remember when you push your feeler gauge in between the pushrod and your rocker arm that the feeler gauge is just "SNUG" not super tight like some idiots have told you before. SNUG is better, not tight or super loose. When this is complete, your lifters are adjusted properly for 1-weeks worth of normal street driving, with a few good racers with your local competition. Adjust them every Sunday and your motor will operate correctly always. If you are at the track and racing, you might want to adjust them after every other race. If your are a fanatic, like I am. Thank You all
At the 4:00 mark it says "Except Chevy Gen III" ?
What years are they ?
thx for the shotcut info!
Hi frauhansencom,
Thank you! Let us know if you have any questions.
Hello,thank you so much for video,looks like easy way to do that.Just have few questions.If i understand correctly,than i will start with tdc 1 and than i can adjust first 8 intake and exhaust vavles like you saying?and than i move engine to tdc 6 and do the same with rest 8 of them?
How do you figure pushrod length for a nonadjustable rocker, on hydraulic lifters.
I'm changing from a flat tappet hydraulic cam to a solid lift cam .can I still use the same push rods?
1.25 - that is not the top dead center you want to use for setting lash.
You tell people that, and they will be setting their valves when not on the base circle of the cam where they should be. Come on over to my channel folks....
Are all the rocker arms the same size.?
i notice that engine is new, lets say i have a engine with run time already on it and i want to replace rockers do i set the lash the same way with hydraulic lifter.
At 4:25 which is correct? Intake 2 5 6 7 exhaust 3 4 6 8, or is it the other way around? And when I go TDC on 6, do I adjust the intake or exhaust valve?
so when going to TDC on cylinder one, and then after setting exhaust 1,3,4,8 and then intake 1,2,5,7. then I got to cylinder 6 TDC and set the rest? No TDC on the other cylinders? and one more question, that 12 o'clock to 6 o'clock turn for setting preload on hydraulic lifters, what about the 22 lb ft of torque for spec? wouldn't that push the plunger down even further? btw, I'm using stock 1.7 rockers.
How do you set the valve lash on a 351 Windsor
I dont have a cam card. Was told it was a 383 so just put new rods in. bent #5s exhaust rod. Solid lifts. So going to set hot lash at 17000th going to find oil deflections to put on so i dont have fire hazard on headers. So questions... 12000 to 22000 is that hot lash ranging? ty
Problem here, on a Solid Lifter, Hot Lash means exactly that, when it's Hot!
You are setting a Hot lash, on a cold engine!
Setting it when cold, will give you a closer setting when engine warms up!
Setting it at 20 when cold, might be more like 17 to 18 when hot.
I think you are going the wrong direction, metal expands when heated not contract. Setting it when cold typically would get you about 6 more thousandths when hot, so a setting of 16 thousandths would be aroung 22 thousandths hot.
How would you explain how to adjust the valve when you have Rhoads lifters Assuming you have an adjustable valve train.
does the oil drain out of hydraulic valves if the motor has set for a long period of time?
Good video but, wouldn't number 1 be just before bottom dead center if the exhaust valve is just starting to open?
Hi CNC Proformance,
We are working on the compression stroke so that way both valves are closed. To easily find the compression stroke, you are going to watch your valves as they move. The intake valve is going to open then close and you want to continue to rotate until the exhaust valve begins to open. From there you have gone too far and need to back off the crankshaft to go back to the compression stroke. While I understand this by no means is a precise measurement, we would need to know your exact cam profile and you would need a degree wheel to pinpoint the exact location of the piston in relation to the camshaft. The key to remember is that with the valve you are working on, the lifter must be on the base circle of the camshaft so there is no actual lift happening, the valve must be closed
@@SummitRacing I am very confused by this statement. You seem to be missing a step. The description above, and in the video, should find TDC on the exhaust stroke of the valves being watch. You have to rotate the engine a full revolution to get to TDC on the compression stroke. The more practically solution is to recognize that exhaust TDC on cylinder 6 is compression TDC for cylinder 1 and visa versa.
Chevy engine with a ford shirt..nice
TDC on these small blocks is much easier to locate then this ^ , compression stroke on #1 the harmonic balancer will read @ 0 degrees, it's the same with all the chevy V8 engines
How do you know if you have hydraulic or solid lifters if the engine is already together? I have heard you can push down on the arm and it will move but you have to be incredibly strong to do that! Can you tell by looking at it?
Is it the same for a big block gen 1
Thanks
What if I have roller rocker arms? Same thing?
I am having trouble pulling out the second spring it is a Flat inner spring so its really hard to pull out so what should I do to get it out
Hi this is just a basic question for you guys I'm based in the Philippines I have a 4g33 engine old school car with the small roads and short distance I'm contented with it the question is I had my valve double springed in a machine shop and have a can mild can which is top end performance what we call here cam 6 or in modern engines stage 0, I want to maximize the set up what basic thing should I do set the the valve clearance we do it inches here like .05 in .10 ex the car is in good condition just want to bring out the best on it simple things like side gapping plugs and for the weather here a 20 50 oil is right please educate me thanks!
WHERES THE SHORT CUT FOR THE FORDS 302 ? ???
look at your firing order
No such thing brother. The firing order on a Ford is, "1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8. Just follow this patern only with your Ford firing order, not my Chevy order1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2,. This is the reason that there are so many people out there destroying their expensive cams. First off there is the only one way to do this simple but very important job. Remember this set of letters. " E.O.I.C." This means, Exhaust open, Intake closed. So, starting with no#-1 cylinder, You turn the crank clockwise until the No-1 exhaust cylinder spring is all the way open, then you adjust the No-1 Intake valve with your feeler gauge to lets say .018, then you rotate your motor around until the Intake at No-1 Intake valve is totally closed, then you adjust your exhaust valve at .024. Next , you follow this same sequence all around the proper firing order of your BBC motor which is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2... When you complete all cylinders in this fashion, your valve/lifters are all set correctly. Remember when you push your feeler gauge in between the pushrod and your rocker arm that the feeler gauge is just "SNUG" not super tight like some idiots have told you before. SNUG is better, not tight or super loose. When this is complete, your lifters are adjusted properly for 1-weeks worth of normal street driving, with a few good racers with your local competition. Adjust them every Sunday and your motor will operate correctly always. If you are at the track and racing, you might want to adjust them after every other race. If your are a fanatic, like I am. Thank You all
Sir you don't have a similar video on a jeep cherokee xj 1989 ? No prob if you don't, can you give me the sequence at least as to which cylinder i proceed to after i adjust the valve lash on # 1 piston ? or do i have to go according to the firing order ? Thanks immensely.
im getting tik tik noise, i guess they are from valve lifters, is there anyway to fix this?
I have a mystery small block 350 and I'm not sure if it has solid lifters or hydros how can I tell? the guy that sold me the car didn't provide receipts of the rebuild, thanks.
Hi Ron S,
With no information (receipts) it will be difficult at best! The only other solution is to pull the lifters out and lay them down on a clean shop rag on the bench overnight. After some oil drains out of them, see if the cups where the pushrods sit can be compressed. If they can, they are hydraulic. Otherwise they are solid lifters.
I have a 383 with a solid lift cam but don't know what cam it is. What do I set the valve lash at.
How do you tell if you have solid or hydraulic lifters? I have a Chevy 350, and the passenger side valve cover sounds like a quiet sewing machine, but the driver's side sounds a bit like a marble is rolling around in there. Seems to be close to the PCV, but its not that making the noise. Does this sound like I need to make an adjustment on the driver's side?
Mac Maven,
Solid lifters have not been
factory installed since the sixties. Most likely you have hydraulic lifters
unless someone has changed them at some point in the engines life. If it is all
still factory original yes, it is possible you may need a valve adjustment. You
may want to remove the valve cover and inspect for any damaged parts first,
especially if it is a high mileage motor.
I've not opened my motor yet but buying all my stuff from you folks but what I would like to know is what type of lifters and rockers I have on a stock un altered factory 1977 Dodge BB 400 Truck motor? Hyd, flat tappet, roller? I'm gonna keep it factory upon replacement.
+jim lucas,
From the factory in 1977 that vehicle would have been hydraulic flat tappet.
+Summit Racing
I'd like to get a new cam, lifters, valve kit with new springs, push rods etc.. but want it to be just plain stock if ok. I know you sell a kit but the timing chains already been replaced. NAPAs doing my head's so no special porting. Any help on what I need is appreciated. Thanks! patrick_price86@yahoo.com
+Summit Racing
I do know the valves are of theNon-adjustable type.
Will this work with readjusting valves in motor that’s been running 7500 miles on motor
Yes. The method doesn't change regardless of mileage and engine wear (unless you're pushrods are super worn down past spec or something)
The adjustment sequence for a 302 Ford is kind of scrambled. Got another?
Hi Robert Behr,
Most times it is confusing to try and follow the firing order procedure. In this case you could adjust each valve individually by turning the motor over each time you move to the next valve. This insures that the lifter being adjusted is in fact at the base circle of the camshaft. It may take longer, but it will be correct!
Fords firing order is 1,5,4,2,6,3,7,8. then follow this This is the reason that there are so many people out there destroying their expensive cams. First off there is the only one way to do this simple but very important job. Remember this set of letters. " E.O.I.C." This means, Exhaust open, Intake closed. So, starting with no#-1 cylinder, You turn the crank clockwise until the No-1 exhaust cylinder spring is all the way open, then you adjust the No-1 Intake valve with your feeler gauge to lets say .018, then you rotate your motor around until the Intake at No-1 Intake valve is totally closed, then you adjust your exhaust valve at .024. Next , you follow this same sequence all around the proper firing order of your BBC motor which is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2... When you complete all cylinders in this fashion, your valve/lifters are all set correctly. Remember when you push your feeler gauge in between the pushrod and your rocker arm that the feeler gauge is just "SNUG" not super tight like some idiots have told you before. SNUG is better, not tight or super loose. When this is complete, your lifters are adjusted properly for 1-weeks worth of normal street driving, with a few good racers with your local competition. Adjust them every Sunday and your motor will operate correctly always. If you are at the track and racing, you might want to adjust them after every other race. If your are a fanatic, like I am. Thank You all
Got a question. Building my car on a budget so it's taking me a while to get everything so starting it will be another 6 months+. Should I wait to set the valve lash? Or is there no big deal with setting the pressure on them? Also, I turn my motor over once a month.
Punk Rock Pete,
Yes, when a motor is being stored for long periods it is always best to loosen the rockers so the valves are not held open and the springs are not compressed.
I have a 350 30 over with a 2500 rv cam could you help me out with the specs on the feeler gage for that would be so grateful and where did you insert the feeler gage
Yes. Your chart is screwed up. First part at #1 TDC is correct. Second part exhaust and intake is reversed. swap the words exhaust and intake.
Hi i picked up a 302 small block ford and I noticed that the valve diameter for the intake and exhuast are slightly different, the exhaust is a bit smaller than the intake valves, but the exhaust valves have lash caps on them. two of them are missing, the engine hasnt ran like this or anything but is it normal that the exhuast and intake valve diameters are different ? and Do i need those lash caps? should they be on all of the valves, or just the exhuast ones to make up for the diameter difference from the intake valves. Thanks
Hi josh,
Yes, head diameters between intake and exhaust valves are generally always different (some exceptions), so this is not an issue. Lash caps can sometimes be used by machine shops to compensate for valve height/length to maintain proper valve lash when non-adjustable rocker arms are being used, though it is a better practice to replace the worn or wrong part rather than stack potential failures!
no closeups?
how about ford small block, I have 331ci with comp cams 294 flat tappet. with the #1 at tdc what other valves can be adjusted at the same time to reduce how many times you have to rotate engine. my firing order is 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8.... thanks
Jennie Pilant,
Valve Adjustment Procedure for Ford V8
W/Firing Order: 1-5-4-2-6-3-7-8
Valves to Adjust
Intake Exhaust
#1 Piston at TDC on Compression Stroke #8 #5
Rotate crank 90° Clockwise #1 #4
Rotate crank 90° Clockwise #5 #2
Rotate crank 90° Clockwise #4 #6
Rotate crank 90° Clockwise #2 #3
Rotate crank 90° Clockwise #6 #7
Rotate crank 90° Clockwise #3 #8
Rotate crank 90° Clockwise #7 #1
I have an issue with my 2004 5.3 Chevy. Installed new cam grind #219-353/225-350/109+2. I installed new dual valve springs from BTR. My valves are hitting the top of the pistons. My timing is correct. (Dead center with dots). With my LSA being 109 +2 my timing should still be dead center correct? I need help on this. It’s really kicking my tail. I already trashed one cyl Head because an exh valve broke and cracked my head.
Hey Brandon, Before you slap your pistons on the head and bend your push rods and break your pistons and rods,
read my proper way to adjust your valves/lifters up above under the name Joseph Monaco. You will be
happy that you followed the only correct /proper way to adjust your cam without destroying your engine.
It is very simple and if you write it down and follow the same pattern, you will never mess up and you
will become an expert at it forever. Please don't follow some VooDoo way of doing this very simple procedure.
Do you have to adjust valve lash on a hydraulic roller motor
Hey got a question. .when I get TDC and start to adjust the valves when intake goes down can I then adjust both intake and exaust? And then rotate crank to next in firing order and when that intake goes down adjust both intake and exaust again..and so on..I have a 67 camaro 350 sbc w/hydraulic lifters..
Hi scott cannon,
If any valve that you are about to adjust is being depressed (moved) by the rocker, that is NOT the correct time to adjust them. You must know without a doubt that the lifter for that valve is at the lowest point of the cam lobe known as base circle!
You left out Ford engines.
Just wondering why?
How can I modify the TDC #1 and TDC #6 method to a cam with a 4-7 swap?
What is you dont have the cam card for a engine? Im working on a older 350 with solid lifters that became out of adjustment how do I determine what to set the lash at?
Hi David, If the cam or manufacturer is unknown the best option is to set both the intake and exhaust at .020”.
Thanks for watching!
Hi guys, Do i follow this same procedure for solid roller 4/7 swap cam? Thanks.
Is # 6 cylinder the opposite of #1? Will #6 be at tdc when the mark on the crank pulley is 180° #1 tdc?
I believe tdc cylinder 1 & 6 should read 0 or TC (depending on dampener), however, they're one full turn away from one another. Or as far as I've done it, that's how it is.
Hey I'm a teenager wanting to get into engine building. I am starting out with a 1995 chevy 350 with a eagle 355 rotating assembly. I want to run a lunati voodoo 268 camshaft but I am confused about what valve springs to use? Like what measurements like length and width springs should I use or should I just use the original springs? Any help would be nice, thanks
+Chase Reed ,
Anytime you change a camshaft you should always upgrade the valve spring. Either due to age or mileage, re-use of the stock valve springs is never a good idea. Most camshaft manufacturers will have a recommended spring to be used with their cam. That recommendation is most times for a stock cylinder head but, there are a multitude of heads out there that can be considered stock so, seek the assistance of a reputable machine shop to assist you and point you down the correct path. Give us a call too, we can help you choose parts based on info you provide to us. 1-330-630-0240.
Really confused I have a ford 302 with solid flat tappet cam now where I'm lost is I tried both patterns for fords and neither one works for me??? So I'm guessing no short cut for my setup?? my cam is base on the 351 firing order??
Hi David M,
Most times it is confusing to try and follow the firing order procedure. In this case you could adjust each valve individually by turning the motor over each time you move to the next valve. This insures that the lifter being adjusted is in fact at the base circle of the camshaft. It may take longer, but it will be correct!
Thanks
Question i have a big block chevey 468 around 500 hp how can i tell without pulling the lifter out if it is a solid lifter or a hydrolic lifter and where i dont have a cam spec sheet on a solid lifter rollor rocker what would be a safe way to ajust them at what lash
+Death by Mint,
Assuming you just purchased this motor and the previous owner did not give you any info, if you start the car and it has a lot of valvetrain noise (like loose rockers), chances are it is a solid lifter camshaft. As for adjustment/lash, without a cam card, you’re lost. Some may tell you to try this or try that but, this spec is assigned by the manufacturer and needs to be followed for optimum performance!
so tdc on the power stroke not on the comprestion stroke
how would you set lifters if you dont have the build sheet from your builder been over year since motor was built
Hi Zach,
Assuming you are referring to a mechanical (solid) lifter camshaft. Valve lash is critical to the proper operation and performance of the cam. It would be best to pull the cam out to obtain the identifying numbers off the back end. Then you’ll be able to identify the lash spec. also.
I have a solid lifter sbc that I bought some new 1.5 roller rockers for. It has an aftermarket cam just not sure what. What should I set the lash at?
+jimmie meadows,
Without the proper camshaft info, there is no way to know the recommended lash. Sorry!
what did you end up doing? cuz I'm in the exact same boat right now haha!
You have to write down the cam number and call up for the correct valve lash, then follow this. This is the reason that there are so many people out there destroying their expensive cams. First off there is the only one way to do this simple but very important job. Remember this set of letters. " E.O.I.C." This means, Exhaust open, Intake closed. So, starting with no#-1 cylinder, You turn the crank clockwise until the No-1 exhaust cylinder spring is all the way open, then you adjust the No-1 Intake valve with your feeler gauge to lets say .018, then you rotate your motor around until the Intake at No-1 Intake valve is totally closed, then you adjust your exhaust valve at .024. Next , you follow this same sequence all around the proper firing order of your BBC motor which is 1,8,4,3,6,5,7,2... When you complete all cylinders in this fashion, your valve/lifters are all set correctly. Remember when you push your feeler gauge in between the pushrod and your rocker arm that the feeler gauge is just "SNUG" not super tight like some idiots have told you before. SNUG is better, not tight or super loose. When this is complete, your lifters are adjusted properly for 1-weeks worth of normal street driving, with a few good racers with your local competition. Adjust them every Sunday and your motor will operate correctly always. If you are at the track and racing, you might want to adjust them after every other race. If your are a fanatic, like I am. Thank You all
how do you break in the engine with those springs because i am having trouble getting the dual spring out please help
Zachary Smith,
Assuming you have a flat tappet
camshaft, it really is best to remove the inner spring for camshaft break-in.
This removes some pressure from the peak of the cam lobe during that very
critical time. Make sure you’re using a racing oil (or additive) for break-in
and have applied plenty of Moly lube on the lobes during engine assembly!
can you do this with brand new hydraulic lifters before they are full of oil
I recommend priming the engine. You should do this either way. Some people let the lifters sit in oil prior to installing, which is fine. But, either way you should prime the engine with any new valve train components.
so on hydraulic lifters when you say the pushrod no longer moves that's the up and down ?and not turning/twisting the push rod with your finger tips ?
I have the same question. Did you figure this out? Or can Summit answer please!
@@azeissler1987 no I haven't got an answer yet
Just so others can know, You adjust the rocker down until the pushrod cant move up and down...JUST barely. Usually, you will still be able to twist the rocker a bit across the top of the valve stem on the valve, but the pushrod has NO up and down clearance. I've done the "spinning" method, but because on hydraulic lifters, you can still already be AT or BELOW zero lash, and the pushrod could possibly still spin. Good quality lifters offer very little resistance on the seats of the lifters. You could wind up tightening the pushrod further then you wanted because you were thinking you tighten it until the rod stops spinning.
If your using variable rate lifters, its a different set up procedure.
what valves can I run on a slant six when on top dead center. solid lifters
Hi Micheal. We need some additional information from you. Can you please give us a call at 1-800-230-3030
make a long story short a guy told me to find tdc and tighten them In the firing order make 90 degree turns 4 times to do 4 cylinders then do 90 degree turns 4 more times 2 do the other 4 car sounds a lil bit better but exhaust sounds like shxx it's no as loud as it use 2 be I can barely hear it any suggestions
@2.35 isn't that intake lifter and NOT the exhaust lifter, like he said?
When you say, "CAM CARD" - what do you mean?
When you buy a camshaft you get a piece of paper (card) that has all the important info about the cam ; lift , duration , valve spring requirements etc. .
Will the procedure for setting the valve lash on multiple cylinders at once referenced at the end work on a AMC 360 that I am currently working on?
Kent Hibbard ,
Unfortunately it will not. You
can give us a call on the tech line and we can walk you through it. 1-330-630-0240.
Summit Racing The AMC 360 has the same firing order as the engines listed (I noticed that AMC is listed at the bottom under Chevy, Olds, Buick, Pontiac, and Mopar) and the valve configuration is the same as well so I am interested as to why this process would not work. I called the tech line today and the representative did some research and was not sure why this would not work either.
If there is some specific reason that you could post here that would be great.. thanks.
I have a quick question I have a 2003 f150 4.2 v6 and I purchased comp cams, lifters, push rods, springs, retainers, roller rockers and I need the proper studs, locks for the roller rockers that didn't come with roller rockers. The factory stock ones doesn't fit the comp cams rockers The heads are the exact same as the 3.8 v6 mustang Please I need help. I need the studs and locks
Hi CBooge2,
We carry a complete adjustable roller rocker arm set from Harland Sharp. They will fit under the stock valve cover and may require a shorter pushrod length due to the adjuster on the rocker. But pushrod length needs to be checked anyway since you are changing so much in the valvetrain. Here’s the link to the rockers…. www.summitracing.com/parts/CSP-S40173A/?feedback=1
Summit Racing I have the comp cams rocker rockers and the longer push rods for comp cams. I was just hoping if yall had the studs and locks that would be a fit. If not I would have to send the comp cam rockers and push rods back to purchase this holland rocker kit
Summit Racing lol typo harland
Is the intake the same as exhaust