I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed. Step by step instructions and great visual information. Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other CZcams instructors need to learn a lesson from this man. If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
Finally! I'm a retired auto machinist 50yrs. This is the best and only way to adjust valves like a professional. All those other ways are too confusing for the diy'er. And "farmer jones" methods are just that! Do it the right way! Great video!
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
I find it funny how you say the people that use the spin method to find zero lash, and then you go by feel to find lash. You sound like a high school auto shop kid explaining this. You are making this way harder than it should be. Keep making people work harder, your doing great!
your understanding of zero lash is incorrect the push rod is going to get hard to spin in a much different depth of travel on a bled down lifter than it will on one that is pumped up solid zero lash is when you just pinch the push rod between between the rocker and lifter plunger spinning it will put the plunger halfway down its travel before you feel resistance that is not zero lash I"m not making it harder I'm just exposing people who do this wrong but think they are right because that's how uncle Joe did it
I learned how to adjust valves by reading my old chiltons repair manual. Any chiltons or hays manual works fine. I follow the instructions and the order it says to follow. I run through twice to make sure I didn’t miss any. And I install the intake and valve covers. I never have to make an adjustment. I always do this with the intake off. I watch the pushrod contact with the lifter plunger. I watch to see when the pushrod makes initial contact and can watch the plunger move. As soon as the pushrod makes contact with the plunger, I tighten the rocker a half turn and I’m done and move to the next valve. Gm never ran the valves hot, and never had to readjust the valves when these engines were assembled. This method has worked every time. The only time you have to pull a valve cover is if there is an issue or something is wrong.
Yes I agree spinning the pushrod is a good way to check for zero lash but I adjust all the valves that are closed on number one then rotate to number six compression and adjust the rest it's worked for me for about 45 years and hasn't failed yet.
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
I'm done a tons of gm small block I'm always using push rod turning method then runs the way they shut with no problems we all have different ways to do but it's good video for begginers
You said not to turn down until you feel the push rod resistance because the plunger may me part way collapsed and the adjustment will be too tight. So if you turn it down until you get zero lash and the plunger is part way down and you adjust it in that position why will the adjustment not be too tight. I always make sure the plunger is not part way down before I attempt to do the adjustment
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
Great instructions for the balancer with the 90 degree marks, if you don’t have the marks you can watch the running mates and go through the firing order to find tdc
good video I learned this after many frustrating years doing it like i was taught (the wrong way) whats better yet on new builds I mark bottom centerline on each lobe before installing cam then look through lifter bore for mark, lube lifter, install and adjust, move to next mark do same.
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
I was taught by my grandfather to just go through and adjust every lifter that’s all the way down in the bore and turn the motor until they’re all adjusted instead of going through the firing order. Never had a problem with doing it this way and seems to get the job done faster
The author of this video starts out by using the 8 stop procedure and gives a great explanation up through 9.50 into the video. Not only is the 8 stop procedure easier, it is much more accurate. He goes on from 9.50 into the video, and explains an alternate method. I don't know why he believes that he needs to make further adjustments. The hydraulic plungers will have more than enough travel for the 8 stop to work very well.
@markemery49 listening is a strong charisterisc to have. He said a rollercam has a very small base circle and it is too hard to center on with the balancer. Therefore the ex opening is the best way to do those cams.
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
i would love to see you build a HP 340 small block N/A Mopar and see what kind of after market bolt ons you would use... i never see this build ... it's such an under rated motor....
Good video thanks! It seemed to me that all your lifters were empty of oil - as one would expect on an engine being built. Is the procedure the same or different on an engine that has already run with lifters pumped up not knowing by how much ???
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
Would this be the same procedure for a big block Chevy also? I happen to be freshening one up this week that’s been sitting for a few years. It will remain in the vehicle while I check the valves but I’ll have the intake manifold off.
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
I have a 327 with a mild cam in it, and camel hump heads, and this motor was my dads for a 63 vett but when he passed away it didn't get ran. I have got it back going but now I have a lifter ticking and the engine shakes a lot. Should I pull the lifter out let them drain and start over with this method? By the way this motor has no miles on it just me running it up to temp to keeps things from going bad.
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
quick question .. Mopar collector said that a Mopar 400 block is stronger than a 440... is that true for max HP with a super charger ? thanks for the knowledge
1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, full turn for adjusting preload. I heard 3 different ways from other builders. Which is the best? Once the preload is set do you operate the oil pump to pump up the lifters?
I adjust one bank at a time , and adjust the cylinders with one valve open. Rotate, until the opposite valve is open, then rotate and check all are adjusted, swap sides and repete! It all comes out in the end! I don't think I ever adjusted a stock cam! Ha-ha...
Hi there, I looked on the car manual and it says to use the spin method, is that effect the install , my car has a new head gasket, oil pump and rocker arm.
I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?
Hi will this method work for roller cam/hydraulic roller lifters? I am going to put a retro fit roller cam and hydraulic roller lifters on my 73 Nova..
exhaust just starts to open adjust intake. intake just closes, adjust exhaust. its a lot easier and faster. it works on any engine, hydraulic or solid. any number of cylinders.
great video but i have to twiddle all three of my thumbs to get it right , i stick one in the spark plug hole and the other in the exaughst hole and use the long shaft to get the lash where it needs to be and fuck it up every time
I have been a mechanic for 35 years. Another great method is to adjust the valve lash the following way: Set the harmonic balancer to 1 cylinder and adjust the following valves-Exhaust 1,3,4,8 and Intake 1,2,5,7. Crank the engine one revolution. You should now be at number 6 cylinder. Adjust the following valves-Exhaust 2,5,6,7 and Intake 3,4,6,8. As mentioned, adjust each valve by 1/2 a turn. Easiest way to adjust lash.
This won't work with a big roller
Thats how Ive done it for 40 yrs and don't know why anybody would do it any other way unless they just love all that extra turning of the crank..
@@georgealmeida7382 right idiots
@@georgealmeida7382 does this work on a 5.3
L
I have literally learned more stuff from you about building motors than I have from anyone or anything else. Thanks for the awesome videos and keep em coming!
Thanks
@@Myvintageiron7512 aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa@aaaaaa@a@@a@@@a@@@AA@@a@AA@@a@a@a@@@@@@@@@@@â
@@Myvintageiron7512
No.
Thank you. You have great helpful content :)
I’m old school,after watching your video, I feel real comfortable in adjusting the valves on my 74’ Corvette ! Thanks
Exhaust opening, Intake Closing. Never failed me yet. Great, clear, concise video.
Thank you for a well explained video on how to adjust valves I realized what I did wrong watching you thank you so much
The first method worked great on my 1965 L 79 350 HP Corvette and the valves were great for the next 15 years running to 6500 RPM. I just followed the GM factory shop manual. Did valve seals on my 72 LS 7 350 Chev Cheyenne and set the lifters by ear using sound absorbers on the other lifters to quiet them and they have not been adjusted for 25 years and they are still quiet.
Wow you made that plain and simple and that's just what I needed.
Step by step instructions and great visual information.
Blessings and more Blessings to you and your Family
Thank You
Perfect....always remember boys, most dirt gets into your engine from your tools....make sure your sockets, up inside, are clean😎
Probably the Easiest method for Beginners!! Thanks for sharing!!
The best teacher on the Avondale campus I learned a lot from you Torres you are the man !!
I feel like I’m back in school when I watch your videos. SO much information I’m taking notes. I love them though, please keep doing what you’re doing. I have a 1997 Chevy k1500 with the 350 Vortec that I’m building right now with help from you. Not to bad of a build currently have a built trans and crate motor in her but I’m looking for more power. Thank you so much sir and again, keep up the good work!
Thanks!
This is exactly the way I've been doing it for 45 years. I do solid lifter cams the same way , except valve lash is set with feeler gauges. But yeah, start on #1 cyl. on compression stroke, set lash, turn crank 90 °, to next cyl. in firing order, ect... Thank you for showing the simplest and quickest way.. All you other CZcams instructors need to learn a lesson from this man.
If you are forgetful like me, do it this way and you'll never screw it up.
I learn so much from your videos. Have rebuild my first sbc with your videos! Thanks!
Finally! I'm a retired auto machinist 50yrs.
This is the best and only way to adjust valves like a professional.
All those other ways are too confusing for the diy'er. And "farmer jones" methods are just that!
Do it the right way!
Great video!
Watching this vid I have learned a lot. How to adjust the valve train on a small block Chevy. Very good demonstration.
What an amazing explanation! I've never heard it explained any better. You sir, win. I learned so much from this .. thank you so much
Glad it was helpful!
Bad ass man awsome video I've been adjusting valves for a long time but I stopped for a while and I wanted a refresher course. I loved your video thank you for taking the time to create this video
I find it funny how you say the people that use the spin method to find zero lash, and then you go by feel to find lash. You sound like a high school auto shop kid explaining this. You are making this way harder than it should be. Keep making people work harder, your doing great!
your understanding of zero lash is incorrect the push rod is going to get hard to spin in a much different depth of travel on a bled down lifter than it will on one that is pumped up solid zero lash is when you just pinch the push rod between between the rocker and lifter plunger spinning it will put the plunger halfway down its travel before you feel resistance that is not zero lash I"m not making it harder I'm just exposing people who do this wrong but think they are right because that's how uncle Joe did it
I learned how to adjust valves by reading my old chiltons repair manual. Any chiltons or hays manual works fine. I follow the instructions and the order it says to follow. I run through twice to make sure I didn’t miss any. And I install the intake and valve covers. I never have to make an adjustment.
I always do this with the intake off. I watch the pushrod contact with the lifter plunger. I watch to see when the pushrod makes initial contact and can watch the plunger move.
As soon as the pushrod makes contact with the plunger, I tighten the rocker a half turn and I’m done and move to the next valve.
Gm never ran the valves hot, and never had to readjust the valves when these engines were assembled. This method has worked every time. The only time you have to pull a valve cover is if there is an issue or something is wrong.
Yes I agree spinning the pushrod is a good way to check for zero lash but I adjust all the valves that are closed on number one then rotate to number six compression and adjust the rest it's worked for me for about 45 years and hasn't failed yet.
that is the right way to do it ,not spinning the push rod but just taking out the push rod play to rocker then 1/2 turn , I just put in valve stem seals with heads on , and I don't want to set them with engine running on my 1991 GMC 1500, I wonder how the factory dose it ,I'm sure they don't do the valve lash running the engine , Thank you for showing us .
Wow this man is awesome ! Literally best lesson i have ever seen .
Perfect explanation and helped me a lot! Greetings from Germany
GREAT video. I've always spun the pushrod with two fingers. Good to learn new tricks!
Love binge watching your videos. Thank you for sharing you knowledge and making it easy to understand.
Excellent video, very clear in your instructions as always.
Cheers
I have found that your method is the best way, by far. Good job man nice pointers. Good luck in the future.
I appreciate that!
Best video I've found so far showing this! Been trying to find something as clear and simply put so i can get my old sbc dialed in.
Here is an easier way. I went 40 years doing it the hard way until I found this. czcams.com/video/5EGlb_VpTAw/video.html
I'm done a tons of gm small block I'm always using push rod turning method then runs the way they shut with no problems we all have different ways to do but it's good video for begginers
Awesome video!! I am going to install a Edelbrock top end kit on my 350.
you are a great instructor....plain and simple.
Yu CB
You said not to turn down until you feel the push rod resistance because the plunger may me part way collapsed and the adjustment will be too tight. So if you turn it down until you get zero lash and the plunger is part way down and you adjust it in that position why will the adjustment not be too tight. I always make sure the plunger is not part way down before I attempt to do the adjustment
We can clearly see why youre an instructor at UTI. I almost went there as a high school graduate. I regret not going everyday 🙏💪😎👍🍀🌅🌆
I have never set valve lash before but you explained perfectly so even I could do. I'm going to go do it right now .
I did it with no issues, thanks a lot 👍👍👍
Great video! Same procedure on hydraulic lifter kohler engines. You got a sub from me!
Great, clear instructions, simple to follow, we're doing a friends 350 sbc atm. Appreciate your video's. 👍👍👍
Awesome, thank you!
I have watched everybodys directions on how to adjust valves on a small block chevy or any hydraulic cam with adjustable rockers. I have wrenched for 45 years, when i was 20 and working for GM an old guy showed me the easiest way to adjust the valves and i have done it this way ever since and it has been perfect every time no need to go back and recheck, everything you explained about zero lash and centering the plunger is exactly correct, but try this next time start your valve adjustment at TDC doesnt matter what stroke your on, go thru and adjust all 16 lifters to 0 lash, then roll the balancer one complete turn back to TDC and check all 16, and the ones that are not at 0 lash readjust them to 0 lash after you have done those 2 steps go thru and set your preload 1/2 a turn or 3/4 on all 16 rocker arms. And your done. Try it, probably takes 15 min, and perfect every time
I never heard this before and I am 80. If you read enough you learn something new everyday. Thanks I will try this next time.
Hey great video on the valve adjustment, I used to work with a old school mechanic at a chevrolet dealership in the 70s and 80s and he used to tighten the rocker nut 12 and a half turns from when the nut starts catching threads on every new hydraulic cam install, never had to readjust them again. I doubted this method until I started tearing down small blocks, I noticed every engine with hydraulic valves I tore down was 12.5 to 13 full turns to remove the rocker nut. I'm curious on what is your thoughts on his method? Thanks for the great videos!
Great instructions for the balancer with the 90 degree marks, if you don’t have the marks you can watch the running mates and go through the firing order to find tdc
good video I learned this after many frustrating years doing it like i was taught (the wrong way) whats better yet on new builds I mark bottom centerline on each lobe before installing cam then look through lifter bore for mark, lube lifter, install and adjust, move to next mark do same.
Extremely helpful, easy to understand. Thanks
I love your videos, Keep them coming.
I agree the spin method is easy to get wrong, wiggling push rod up and down is the way to go. I also use 1/2 turn past zero lash to preload the lifter, many resources say 1 turn but in my experience is that's too much (most of the time).
Thanks, I trust your instructions more than any on utube. Why does the info that comes with a new GM crate 350 flat tappet small block tell you to go 1/8 turn past 0 lash???
I was taught by my grandfather to just go through and adjust every lifter that’s all the way down in the bore and turn the motor until they’re all adjusted instead of going through the firing order. Never had a problem with doing it this way and seems to get the job done faster
The author of this video starts out by using the 8 stop procedure and gives a great explanation up through 9.50 into the video. Not only is the 8 stop procedure easier, it is much more accurate.
He goes on from 9.50 into the video, and explains an alternate method. I don't know why he believes that he needs to make further adjustments. The hydraulic plungers will have more than enough travel for the 8 stop to work very well.
@markemery49 listening is a strong charisterisc to have. He said a rollercam has a very small base circle and it is too hard to center on with the balancer. Therefore the ex opening is the best way to do those cams.
Great video. Keep them coming!
I always verify compression TDC by watching the lifters. If intake closes just before TDC, then, at TDC, you are on compression.
Thanks Guy! I noted that when I was cranking the engine over a few times. This project is 39 years old. Now I gotta find a home for the heart ❤ of this bowtie 🤗
I liked your info. I'm running a small base circle cam.
Get a good engine manual and you can check and set half of them when on mark ( 0 lash and half a turn down) and turn crank 360 degrees and set other half. This is best way. Not by running engine. Solid lifters are different set and add .002 to setting on exhaust and run engine with valve covers on until engine is hot then check all for correct gap. Works every time and no use to run with valve covers off. There is usually 3 turns from 0 to too much . A half turn is good for high performance.
I love your videos , you rascal Keep em’ comin
You are helping me out tremendously brotha thank you.
Glad to help
This is pure gold I appreciate this so much !!!!!!!
i would love to see you build a HP 340 small block N/A Mopar and see what kind of after market bolt ons you would use... i never see this build ... it's such an under rated motor....
You explain things very well..And you know your sh**......Keep the good build videos coming!!
Good video thanks! It seemed to me that all your lifters were empty of oil - as one would expect on an engine being built. Is the procedure the same or different on an engine that has already run with lifters pumped up not knowing by how much ???
Thanks for the training info, learned allot.
Lunch can wait. I'm gonna watch your vid first. #knowledgeispower
On a running motor which has ticking sound do you adjust the same way.
Great video and explanation! Saved me today during a total brainfart!
Great to hear!
Great video thanks. I’m new to V8 and hydraulic lifters. I’m doing my first service and have been watching many videos. Can you please tell me why some say quarter turn and others say half ? I’m assuming the thread pitch on the adjusters are always the same ? Thanks
thank you as always great content
Quick question.... Do you adjust hyd roller lifters the same way with lash and preload?
Blaspheme! A red block? What? Lol I haven't even watched yet, but great vid. You always teach me well and are highly effective.
Glad you enjoyed!
Great Video I have a question with the dry lifters wouldn't they collapse do to the valve spring pressure as you go though the 1/4 turns
Would this be the same procedure for a big block Chevy also? I happen to be freshening one up this week that’s been sitting for a few years. It will remain in the vehicle while I check the valves but I’ll have the intake manifold off.
So the piece with the mark is the timing gauge what is the other similar looking piece just to the left of it?
Finally someone that knows what they are talking about!
are there other cylinders that you can lash at the same time as you do cylinder #1?
I was thinking of buying 383 storker kit for my 1997 k1500 I am keeping the bore size standard size what do you think sir?
does the Chevy 350 rebuild u have on here apply to the mercruiser 5.7 350 gm engine that is in my boat?????
What is happening when I want to adjust my first valve and on each rotation I have exhaust pressure at tdc?
With a small cam, can you use the method where you do all the cylinders at TDC #1 twice?
Could you please, show us how to determine pushrod length, on a hydraulic roller cam? I've watched four videos, four different methods, and one of them I thought was nuts.
VERY HELPFUL VIDEO NICE WORK 👍👍👍
I have a 327 with a mild cam in it, and camel hump heads, and this motor was my dads for a 63 vett but when he passed away it didn't get ran. I have got it back going but now I have a lifter ticking and the engine shakes a lot. Should I pull the lifter out let them drain and start over with this method? By the way this motor has no miles on it just me running it up to temp to keeps things from going bad.
Does the engine need to have oil when rotating the crankshaft
Thanks for all your videos. I’m thinking of buying aluminum heads for my 327 sbc it has a comp cam with 292 lift. What do you think?
I’d work for you any day sir. Thank you for the free knowledge
I like this method! I just set mine by setting cylinder #1 to TDC and adjusting Exhaust 1, 3, 4, 8 and Intake 1, 2, 5, 7. Then I rotated engine 360* to cylinder #6 at TDC and adjusted Exhaust 2, 5, 6, 7 and Intake 3, 4, 6, 8. While I got them all to zero lash, I also set the preload before moving on to the next valve. Is this an accurate way to set them as well?
Great Vid, perfect timing, We are at this stage right now!! What is the story on the intake gaskets being held in place with studs? Thanks!
Thanks for the video you and a great detail appreciate it
I have a question about my rockernuts, when I get 0 lash the nuts are basically at the top of the studs is caused of a bent valve or bent pushrod
Nice balancer on that sucker 👍🏼
Hard to beat a big journal 327
quick question .. Mopar collector said that a Mopar 400 block is stronger than a 440... is that true for max HP with a super charger ? thanks for the knowledge
Would this be similar to fords 302 flat tappet? Cant seem to find videos of those.
Good advice once adjusted put the covers on and your done.
1/2 turn, 3/4 turn, full turn for adjusting preload. I heard 3 different ways from other builders. Which is the best? Once the preload is set do you operate the oil pump to pump up the lifters?
Can you put a spark plug in #1 to ensure that you are @ TDC, snug will work, correct? both lifters are down in their bore...
I adjust one bank at a time , and adjust the cylinders with one valve open. Rotate, until the opposite valve is open, then rotate and check all are adjusted, swap sides and repete! It all comes out in the end! I don't think I ever adjusted a stock cam! Ha-ha...
Hi there, I looked on the car manual and it says to use the spin method, is that effect the install , my car has a new head gasket, oil pump and rocker arm.
I’m afraid the hydraulic lifters won’t be adjusted right after I do this. Should i replace them, I already put the heads on with new head gaskets. I tried to remove a couple and had no luck. How do I know they are good, is there any way to check them while inside the block?
Hi will this method work for roller cam/hydraulic roller lifters? I am going to put a retro fit roller cam and hydraulic roller lifters on my 73 Nova..
could you cover quench, it's importance and how to obtain it?
I have seen guys adjust the rockers with the engine running. Is the incorrect way to do it? Thanks for the videos.
What do u think is most proper I've heard quarter turn half and whole turn
Your my engine guy Now. Thanku. Im gonna do bull run to your shop
Right on
exhaust just starts to open adjust intake. intake just closes, adjust exhaust. its a lot easier and faster. it works on any engine, hydraulic or solid. any number of cylinders.
great video but i have to twiddle all three of my thumbs to get it right , i stick one in the spark plug hole and the other in the exaughst hole and use the long shaft to get the lash where it needs to be and fuck it up every time
ho do i adjust valve lash on a small block 350 with a roller cam
Great tutorial 👍