2005-2007 Ford Freestyle Five Hundred Overheating: WARNING Never Use Aftermarket Water Pumps!
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- čas přidán 14. 01. 2020
- In this video we go over a money saving tip for owners of the 3.0l Duratec engine having overheating issues.
Ford Water Pump 2005-2007 (worth the extra $$$)-
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My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law. - Auta a dopravní prostředky
Ford Water Pump 2005-2007 (worth the extra $$$)-
amzn.to/2Tl8OE5
Can you show how to do a transmission fluid change by the book there's not a lot of service info on the cvt's
Great content please keep them coming
My ford idles low any clue what it is? I spend so much money now its just bothering me
@@jarvisbowen547 what model and engine?
Its a 4.0 v6 ford explorer xlt
My dad has an 06 500. He has a leak from the weep area on the backside of the pump and that cam seal is also leaking. After much research, we actually found an aftermarket pump that has the exact same design as the Motorcraft one. "1A auto" sells it on Amazon for under $100 with a lifetime warranty. Hopefully it isn't total trash and someone finally figured out that other design doesn't work. His car is getting the pump, cam seal kit, and valve covers all replaced in addition to suspension work. He is lucky he knows a Ford tech like me. I love your channel by the way.
Great advice - I had bought an aftermarket pump myself, well known brand with good reputation and this happened to me! Never would think these would shear off.
I don't exactly think they're shearing straight off, but wearing away over time. If someone with one of these pumps pulls it off before it fails I bet those teeth are part way worn through. If the teeth aren't PERFECTLY located, there will be a minute wobble or chaffing with every rotation and that will slowly rub away the teeth over time, hence all the brown iron dust in there..
Brian -here is another year and here you're saving people time, money and aggravation. I dont own a Freestyle but due to being your video I watch everything. I want to gain knowledge but you make everything look so simple, lol. You're just too good😁. Here's to you and another year of your helpful videos🍸
Great video, Brian. As the owner of two Fords, I rely on your expert information to make sure my cars are maintained and repaired correctly. Keep up the good work.
Got to be honest. One of the best cars I ever owned, with one of the best engines Ford ever produced. We had 240,000 kms on our AWD Feestyle when we sold it. Other than regular service parts and the little pump that pressurizes the rear differential fluid coupling, it was 100% reliable. And yes I changed the transmission fluid and filters once in the time we owned it. We sold it cos the rockers rotted away - Canadian winter road salt.
Makes more sense to bolt it to the adjoining shaft, better yet, connect it to a belt. The best proven way. I don’t understand why ford or any other company would change an already reliable way to drive their water pumps.
The previous method was proving to be too reliable.
You can't possibly sell enough parts if you continue to make things reliable.
I say complex service is a sure-vice. It would all change for the better if folks simply researched more on reliability, didn't impulse buy, educated themselves on servicing their own vehicles, stop buying the "smaller engines = fuel economy" blanket statement from automakers when cars are getting larger, heavier, etc. Overcomplicated engineering is sacrificing reliability while increasing service costs.
John Bethune How would Ford sell more parts for cars that came from factory with a bolt on pump that lasts a long time Vs the generic auto parts slip on pump? Listen to the vid, the first design Ford pump was a slip on then FORD REVISED IT TO A MORE RELIABLE BOLT ON. You are choosing to live your life as a willing victim thinking everyone is out to get you. Best thing is " the evil big man " does not have to do anything to hold you down because you do it to yourself.
Defect in the 1950's a car with 35,000 miles was considered worn out , in the 1980's a car with 100,000 miles was virtually unheard of. Now cars with nearly 200,000 miles still have life left. How do you call that unreliable?
@@bobroberts2371 It would appear that you are too busy trying to be philosophical to recognize sarcasm. I am far from a victim, and most definitely not being held down.
Thanks for your concern though.
Great video.
Thanks, but no thanks. I'll keep driving my 03 Grand Marquis. 301,000 miles still the original water pump and really everything except the intake manifold and lighting control module.
Excellent info Brian!
Thanks for posting Brian!
Learned that lesson the hard way on a Fusion 3.0. Aftermarket didn’t make it a year until the bearing was wiped out. Got a Motorcraft replacement and had no problems from then on. Original pump made it 160k miles.
Thanks for this great info; I've been subbed longtime, you're honest, and a help, thank you sir.
I just fixed a 500 water pump last week and sure enough the tabs sheared completely off and it was only 8mos old, just like u said. Customer took part back to AZ and got another unit, had a lifetime warranty, but still lots of frustration with this part. Good video
Great video tutorial. First step on cooling diag of those duratec motors. Check the pump for the Fomoco logo. Thanks man.
Thanks for the heads-up, Brian! 👍🍻
Now I have the, "Built to last - Duralast" jingle stuck in my head ... 😂🤣😂
Thanks for the great tip Brian! I have almost 120K on my 2005 Ford Five Hundred. I'll know to replace with Ford parts if/when the pump starts to leak.
BTW - for all the Duratec 3.0 haters out there: this pump design is great! Think it's not? Go watch Brian's videos on replacing the water pump on the 2010 and newer Ford Taurus with the 3.5. That's a nightmare! The 3.0 is a great engine - oil drips are the worse thing I experienced with the car after 15 cold Canadian winters on it (other then the intermittent P0174 lean code I get once in a while).
You can even get a aftermarket pump with this through bolt design for only $50 bucks...might be worth a try given how easy it seem this pump is to replace. Theres no reason such a simple part needs to be $300.
@@mikeg3529 - good point - I went on RockAuto and saw a MUCH cheaper pump with the bolt design for like $65CAD. Definitely a viable alternative.
Mike TeeVee The 3.5 pump is only difficult for pilgrims to replace. I’ve repaired far worse in my 30 years career plus the 3.5 is smoother, quieter, and more powerful. Also leaks ZERO oil.
@@prevost8686 I dont care what you say, replacing a waterpump shouldnt involve taking the front cover off the engine and taking the timing CHAINS off to get the pump out.
Its such a horrible design... A leak at the waterpump puts coolant directly into the oil. Which means unless you happen to catch that leak by seeing the coolant loss from the tank or checking the milkshake oil, you wind up driving the car normally unaware of whats going on. By the time enough water gets into the oil to make the car run funny, severe damage has already happened. Its trash. nevermind how if the waterpump bearings happen to go, the timing chains start flopping around in addition to the oil contamination. Then its just a timebomb...Whats gonna kill it first, the timing chain jumping and the motor eating its valves OR is the water infused oil going to destroy the bearings? Ethier way, these are things you dont worry about on other cars with a better design for the waterpump.
As always, good video learned something new everytime.
Brian is the ford master 👍
Thanks for sharing Bro👍 another great tip
Thank you for the warning. Good video.
motorcraft replacement parts have always worked great for me. not one problem. use good parts or walk!
The Ford Duratec 3.0 is a good engine in the Ford five hundred. I bought my 2006 new, and try to stay on top of maintenance. I have around 165,000 miles, and I've to replace the alternator, besides normal maintenance. I like my Ford 500.
Excellent information
I've seen this many times, nice video.
I used to keep my "Parts to Avoid" list in a notebook on my desk. Now it's 17 notebooks (arranged alphabetically), to which I add to daily. Today (so far) it was this Ford water pump and the "Detroit Rebuilt" power steering rack (the motor howls when you turn it lock-to-lock) for a 2013 Dodge Dart I just replaced with an OEM MOPAR. I am thinking of doing what some other shops in my neighborhood are doing; they will only warranty OEM parts. They will install other's aftermarket parts, but they won't warranty the labor. I've got to do something... bad parts are costing me too many unpaid hours.
This is why I passed on Duratec V6s. Got my Taurus with the Vulcan. Less power but more reliability and cheaper to repair.
The water pump on the vulcan can very well go out at 130k, and its alot less accessible then this duratec. This waterpump looks like it can be changed in 30 minutes. Cant say that about the vulcan at all.
@@mikeg3529 It is easily accessible with only a socket, extension, ratchet, and a torx bit. It takes less than 30 minutes to swap one out. Just changed mine when I changed the serpentine belt and it had over 230,000+ miles on it after it starred leaking. It was the original ford unit.
@@ragintaurusmusclemercury7023 Its definately not as simple as this duratec freestyle is though. I mean, you dont even need to remove the belt at all. Just a few bolts, and disconnect hoses and its off. Either way, Duratec > Vullcan all day. Vulcan is reliable, but the duratec is just as reliable while make more power with the same 3.0 liters the vulcan has.
@@mikeg3529 I don't own a Freestyle thank goodness. While the Duratec has more power and torque than the Vulcan they are not as durable and require more maintenance. That water pump design is garbage. Sometimes it is best to keep it simple.
@@ragintaurusmusclemercury7023 I gotta disagree. There is nothing the duratec needs beyond the same maintenance that applies to the Vulcan. The only thing that would exist is timing belt replacement with it being DOHC, however the duratec uses a chain and was designed well enough that the chain will typically last the life of the engine, just like the timing chain in the vulcan doesnt typically ever need to be replaced.
Great info!
If at all possible, keep it all OEM. Cheaper is not always better. Thanks Brien for the videos!!
Buddy Taylor I’ve spent enough time now fixing my 2010 expedition to know you’re absolutely correct. Aftermarket parts often look cheaper and just aren’t made well enough. And I’ve had some instances where motocraft parts were actually cheaper than aftermarket.
Going to start replacing my 08 F150 ball joints. At this point I can take time. Have another car to use for now. Watched your videos so hopefully will go well.
Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the repair advice. This is classic cheapo engineering from the big three once again. Why wouldn't the engineers have actual splines to eliminate the bolt and extra seal? To make it cheaper obviously...and this is why I'll never buy another vehicle from the big three.
I will always watch this channel for great content though. Please keep posting and thank you for sharing.
Every time I buy parts for my personal car I cry. I always buy high quality oem stuff since my goal is to only to do the job once. Parts cost 1/3 to double, but I know my car isn't held together by bubble gum parts.
The broken part you are having to replace IS an OEM part. Think about that.
@@anonymousgeorge4321 I have no issues replacing an OEM part that lasted 5-10 years and 100k+ miles. I have 25 years of experience working on cars. I have had to many crappy aftermarket parts fail right out of the box or last a short time.
@@anonymousgeorge4321
100k vs 9k
OEM gives you >10x for only twice the co$t.
U Decide.
Even "New" Math can not argue away common sense, but hey we have generations of snowflakes and entitlements who have a hard time checking engine oil let alone understanding being stuck over and over.
Just my Long Math mentality I guess.
Same here, you get what you pay for. Some stuff is really good but most is crap. I've had so much hassle with aftermarket stuff, it's just not worth it.
@@mikeholubek4419 I'm a gen z and I get the best stuff I can buy. I even get imported oils for my truck I run Liqui Moly made in Germany in my engine. I'm about to do a transmission drain and fill a few times and I plan to use Miller's oil made in the UK. When it comes to parts I use OEM or better as well. I may upgrade my shocks to ICON stage 3 suspension as well, thing is it cost $2800 for kit. Also want to get a locking rear diff. When it comes to cars I go above and beyond the norms.
My 05 has 244800 on it.. Still original pump, actually almost everything is original on the car... Love the channel have learned much here..
Dan Bentch must not be the six speed automatic, if it is your lucky
@Eroom
Most of that is folks not changing the ATF at 50k intervals or very severe treatment driving style.
Thank you i didnt know that very helpful
I plan on buying a used car sometime in the next few months and stuff like this is why I will thoroughly search youtube for problems with any car I am interested in and they all have their problems. So, it is just a matter of what I may have to deal with.
Thank you !!
Yea. I learned this the hard way. I picked one up for around 200 and it broke within 3 months.
Brian, what work gloves do you use? Thanks.
Thanks! Shared
ford and there brilliant ideas i like the w/p driven off the chain what were they thinking
🤯🤯🤯👍👍👍👍👍👍 I learn something new today
It looks as if the lugs on the end of the camshaft are disfigured some when the water pump drive sheared. Is that going to be a problem??
One other major issue with water heating with this make and model is the metal water T-pipe connecting water pump, radiator and coolant reservoir. If this pipe has a hole that leaks water fast enough it will cause a serious over heating issue. My pipe had several pin holes which i repaired with an epoxy cement and the overheating stopped.
thanks
Have you had any experience with the transmission-limp mode problems with these and Taurus X's? Maddening problems. Thank you
Good man. Can't say the same for Ford.
reminds me of GM mid 90s LT1 water pump ..that was splined to the cam also but had a sleeve that connected them.. it was a good design....the optisparis another story though..
optispark...
Unfortunately most people will put the cheap one then trade it in. Sucks to be the next person that buys it.
One the car in the video was the end of the camshaft still good enough for the Bolt in Unit to work? If the end of the cam is chewed up, should I try to put a star washer between the end of the shaft and the pump???
Thanks for the tip👍🔧 i hate this car
Quick question my transmission case cracked. Whats the best product I can use to seal it back again.Will Jb weld work?( 2003 ford windstar)
Is the plastic valve looking deal at top of pump assembly with a locking pin through it used for bleeding air while filling with antifreeze?
Nice !
Is the gumming up caused by lack of maintenance silting or a chemical structure issue with the coolant?
Thanks! Love my Ford 500, great cheap commuter car. Should these pumps be replaced at a certain interval or just if fails? I'm just over 100k on my 2005 Ford 500 and about to replace the spark plugs (which involves intake removal).
No interval just when they leak.
Is there a way to push the slug out of these aftermarket pumps without damaging anything? Maybe with a press and what not?
I don’t even have a Ford but I’m watching the video anyway
It says FoMoCo right on it. Why is that? Maybe they used an oem housing? or a rebuilt part?
With aftermarket pumps you must transfer the OEM cover over to the new aftermarket pump.
@@FordTechMakuloco Oh i see! Makes sense now. May have missed it since i was skipping around the video. Good tips and great work man
what about Hella or Hepu as aftermarket pump brands ?
👉👍exactly true sir. That happened to me with an aftermarket water pump, they go bad quickly and damage the camshaft guide and then leak through the thermostat housing because the rubber o-ring and bearing are poor quality.
I have a question it doesn’t pertain to this video however I just got a 2003 F150 from my dad 85,000 miles original rear end winds going to try replacing the fluid first but I’m guessing the ring and pinion was set up wrong and he’s wearing can I use Valvoline 75W 140 full synthetic with the limited slip additive already in it and if so is that good enoughOr do I still need to add a 4 ounce bottle of fords friction modifier as well looking to do this tomorrow thank you
It would nice if it had the nobs and the bolt that would be really reliable
Is the coolant pump the same as a water pump? I haven't had any problems with my 06 five hundred over heating at 145,000 miles but I will keep this in mind. Thank you so much, JohnG
Yes the same thing. Coolant pump is just what the name should be since it’s circulating coolant not water.
i wonder what that sounded like when it sheared?
Just an Idea Not Saying it Would Work But What if One Was To Drill a Hole For the Bolt in The Cheaper Aftermarket Pump Would This Solve The Issue ??? Thanks 😮😳😳😳 I Love These Videos When it Comes To Fords You Are The Man 😎👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Its a weird floating impeller design inside so I don't know how that would work.
You should do a video on the crappy cvt trans.
...or dual clutch - Ford tech that makes everybody loco.
Brian, have you seen the Airtex-ASC CZcams video referring to the design difference, keyed vs bolted on these pumps. This gentleman calls the keyed design as being a new design and a improvement. Seems laughable. You may have already seen it. But thought I'd pass on FYI. HAPPY FORDING!
What if they sound like a machine gun when running with no power at all? Bent valves from interference?
I have a 2006 Ford 500 sedan 4d it's making a loud sound on the front passenger side I was scared it was the CTV but I was told that's on the driver's side
Now how about that torque strut mount.
My 2.2 ecotec gets moisture in oil during cold weather in nh so how often should I change it? I leave off oil cap sometimes to release condensation
You have a problem with the pcv system. Moisture isn't normal at all.
Help! 2011 mustang gt throwing P050E Code!
Hi.. my 06 Ford freestyle lost power couple days ago. It wouldn't start until I got a jump. Then soon after dash lights goes out and stops running.. got a new battery... thought everything would be ok... then lost power again... I was told I need a alternator... heeellllppp 🤦🏽♀️
I always buy OEM water pumps or the OEM aftermarket water pump when available. Off brand, Aftermarket pumps are usually junk.
What is an OEM "Aftermarket" Pump? Where do you source that or identify it?
@@wansolve2036 sometimes you can buy the exact OEM part from the company that makes it, but the part is sold as that companies part. For example, instead of an OEM Toyota water pump, you buy the Aisin brand and it is the exact part since they make the oem toyota part.
It doesn't always work out though. Sometimes the part is slightly different, but I have had plenty of times when it is exactly the same. I have even had times when they have ground off the auto makers mark on the casting. ie the Aisin pumps casting has the toyota mark ground off.
The one you linked is $236 on Amazon for 2006 Ford five hundred. Is this something I should do as preventive maintenance, or wait until it fails ? I bought my 06 Ford 500 new and keep it maintained. Thank you, Johnny
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.....mine went out @ 181,000 miles.
I have a 07 Ford 500. It's the opposite for my car. The factory pump has the spline instead of the bolt. I bought a new pump with the bolt but it has plastic fins. Installed it and heat works about half the time and usually only with at least 2k rpms. Bought factory pump with spline and still debating switching it out.
Did you end up swapping it out? You may have simply had an air pocket in the cooling system
@@CreatingExcellence since posting this I've actually changed the pump twice. The cheap one that bolted to the camshaft failed I currently have the spline setup on my car. My verdict is a partially clogged heater core
So, it's just surface to surface contact that keeps torque on it? Could you not add a star washer or something? Even with the bolt tight, doesn't seem reliable.
Never an issue.
The old "aftermarket" one had FoMoCo cast right into it. Might be sold in the aftermarket but just an old OE design that's still made by Ford.
No you must transfer the old Ford cover to the new aftermarket pump housing
Just ran into this problem at my work. And they wonder why I complain about the quality of aftermarket parts.
Hello, my 2001 Ford Explorer has a leaking heater core. do you reccomend using a heater core sealant to plug the leaks? I do not have 1200 for new head gasket/heater core. Thank you-
Don't ever use stop leak or a chemical product to seal stuff like that, it'll cause you more problems than its worth
@@nrvsauto8990 How about simply flushing the system, will that stop the leaking or do I have to replace the heater core/head gasket?
@@Mia-qt4th if the heater core is leaking change that.if the head gasket is leaking then change that they are 2 different things heater core inside . head gasket inside engine. where is it leaking from inside(heater core), or from exhaust, or bubbling though the radiator(head gasket).
@@witnesszer0 Im not sure but I'll find out and try to repair rather than use sealants. I appreciate the answrs to my questions. I'll let you know which it is. Thank you-
The heater core and head gasket are vastly different. Head gasket replacement requires a tear down down of the whole engine. The heater core is located inside your car, behind the dash. Replacement of the heater core can be costly as well.
Ever heard of an 08 3.0 Fusion putting coolant out the exhaust, nearly all plugs wet, but runs like sewing machine with in spec compression test readings? (Already bypassed the coolant lines going into the bottom of the throttlebody.) I'm stumped, and relying upon bars leaks metallic stop leak. (PS.Ill pay for any help too.) Thanks
Intake manifold gaskets?
I don't think any coolant runs through the intake on a 3.0.
Crazy
Why not both nubs and bolt?
Ford...i have a love hate relationship. I own a 2011 ford fusion with the brake issue...i heard about the recall but it goes to 2010...my 2011 was built in 2010...love...hate.
Dude, the car is 9 years old. Fix it and move on with life.
I own a 2010 fusion. Can you elaborate on this recall?
NEL SIN
I’ve had two Fusions, put 130 k on both cars without any issues. I miss both of them
@@mph5896 you are so right
@@davidwildridge8080 look up 2010 ford fusion brake recall. The issue is with the abs hydraulic brake unit. It fails. Its happened to me.
Good info but mine is a 2016 5L engine. Is the water pump made about the same?
Only the 05-07. Your's is a totally different design.
@@jamesplotkin4674 Good, thanks
@@MikeJones-jr5hb Still OEM is usually better than aftermarket junk.
@@ReclusiveMountainMan Absolutely!
Good lord I’m pulling my hair out right now. I’m leaking from where the pump meets the valve cover. This is the only video I can find that shows that connection, and the little orange o ring inside. I can’t find that damn o ring ANYWHERE. The only Water pump gaskets I can find are the main seal between both halves of the pump. And I can’t find any valve cover gaskets that include that particular gasket either. Any help would be greatly appreciated!!!
Thos looks so much like the ford probe gt engine.
Thanks for the heads up. I have an 06 Five Hundred and knock on wood is working great. Any common issues with these cars that I need to know?
RL Jakovasaur yeah, 6 speed transmission, need to change fluid to help valve body from wearing out, engine top mount and front end parts wear out prematurely and a/c’s are bad for going out, bought one new in 2005, can’t kill the engine but six speed transmission watch out
I have the CVT
...........and many of them--ALL YEARS-- prone to annoying vibration at 12-1500 rpm. Mounts? Tires? Trans? Loose subframe? Old trans. fluid? CV Axles?== ANY of THESE, or WORSE, NONE of these!!!!! BEWARE.
Aftermarket apparently also means rebuilt. The "rebuilt" casting still appears to have a FoMoCo mark on it.
Those "dog gear" drives that the aftermarket unit sports do not work unless there is a spring in there somewhere to keep the lash out, otherwise the parts will just chatter themselves to an early death.....
No, the aftermarket pumps do not come with the cover, you must transfer the original Ford cover from the old pump to the new pump.
Ford quality is Job 1.
If you rack up a lot of mile’s on these and don’t have transmission and a/c problems, consider yourself lucky, the six speed
I actually snagged a Montego last summer for 500 bucks because of this exact reason. Owner put a Duralast pump in and yup, the locating tabs sheared off and the car was back to overheating.
Jon Liegl
Is it an easy change out?
@@chrisj197438 Its pretty straight forward. While you have the coolant drained, I also recommend pulling off the throttle body and cleaning it, as they're prone to gumming up and causing stalling/surging issues due to buildup.
Nice, that seems like it would be a pretty tough diagnosis. Was it noisy with the car running?
@@mph5896 it wasn't noisy, the car was just overheating
Jon Liegl if it’s a six speed transmission good luck
plz brother im begging you for an advice , should i buy my daughter a 2014 titanium ford focus ?
no
@@FordTechMakuloco THANKYOU .
FordTechMakuloco what 4 cyl small car would you recommend for my 18 year old to start college ?
I replaced mine and it started overheating a few days later. I should have spent the extra money on the good pump.
Question: What if I get an aftermarket pump that has the bolt instead of the tabs?
That would be a start.
@@FordTechMakuloco thanks. The price difference is about $150. I'm just weighing my options. I haven't driven the car in months because it's a work car and I was laid off, but work is picking back up.
I personally would buy the Ford pump online to save big time compared to a dealer. Plop it on and never worry about it again.
Don't the CVT's go bad on these before the water pump?
The transmission, yes generally.
I’ve just bought a 2005 ford freestyle on 215,000km. The battery needed jump starting when I got to the car and drove 20km home fine but over the last couple of days I’ve been experiencing problems. The engine seems to steam off when I stop driving or park after 10-15 mins of driving (could be as I spilt a bit of oil when topping up? Or the radiator coolant over flowing as I left the cap off when starting the engine once?)
The battery worked fine after we jumped it and let it idle for 10 mins but I left it over night and when I went to drive today I had to jump it again?
Does anyone have any ideas of what else I should look for or if it’s easier/smarter just to get a mechanic to look at it?
Any help will do, thanks!
There is also no leak coming from underneath or out of the exhaust pipe?
Very easy fixing that car
JB Weld that sucker and if it breaks again trash the car.
Great combination ford and auto zone parts 🤣🤣🤣
Why? The Ford pump went a respectable 130,000 miles , how is it Fords fault that someone didn't want to buy a factory pump?
@@bobroberts2371 - The Auto Zone pump lasted 9k miles!
👍👍